|
Paul Osterberg
Hello! have dismantle the main furling gear to service with new seals and bearings and now I wonder how to get the bearing of the main shaft, se picture, Is it possible to take of the bearing without of the gear wheel?
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259
|
|
|
Re: B&G Halcyon (GSC) Gyro-Stabilized Compass
Wolfgang Weber
Hello Oliver, In the moment I am not on the boat, but I think I only have the compass which belongs to the Furuno Autopilot, which is in the Bb Forwardcabin in the bilge. My boat is now in Fort Lauderdale and will be shipped to Gibraltar (hopefully) the next week. So I should be there end of November. All the best to the group Wolfgang SY Elise Amel 54 #162
|
|
|
Re: B&G Halcyon (GSC) Gyro-Stabilized Compass
Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
Hello Wolfgang,
Where is the fluxgate hidden in A54? Is there also a B&G halcyon?
Oliver A54#39 Vela Nautica Gibraltar
On Tue, Oct 29, 2019, 22:42 Wolfgang Weber via Groups.Io <webercardio= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Hi Bill, I think a compass is also necessery. The part is only the interface. Thank you very much Wolfgang SY Elise Amel 54 #162
|
|
|
Re: Amel Santorin Specs and Alterations
Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
Hello Marc,
I fully agree with you.
I would give the same advice. Better buy a SM or A54 that comes with all the planed gear in place.
We did the same, did not change anything, until we owned Vela Nautica a year. Exept I feeled like need to change some lines and regretted later because not all was reasonable. We learned that some gear (the usual suspects) needed urgent refit because maintenace was neglected by the old owner.
I would also agree, adding lithium is only something that will pay in a longer run than 3 years. Only it offers compfort with short gen times and less noise. But is a major project and took us 4 month until all was in place and working and tested as expected. Before we could do long range trips with a peacefull mind.
So long Oliver A54#39 Vela Nautica Gibraltar
On Mon, Oct 28, 2019, 15:15 Mark Erdos < mcerdos@...> wrote:
Orion,
I mean the
upmost respect as I say this, I do not think the Santorin and adding upgrades
is a good plan. You are looking to purchase an Amel and make significant
investments and changes. Just the lithium upgrade along is going to cost US$15,000+,
Aircon is another US$10,000+ etc (assuming you have an electrical system that can
handle the load or you’ll have to make major changes). Have you considered the
cost of ownership while making these upgrades. They will all take considerable time.
You will also need an electrician knowledgeable of Amel’s unique floating
ground system (a very rare find). Why not buy the SM that already has this
stuff. I think you can easily find a well kept Amel in this price range (maybe
a tad more). Also keep in mind, in three years when you sell the SM, it will
sell for more than the Santorin giving you your extra money back.
The best advice
I received when purchasing Cream Puff was from Bill Rouse who told me not to
change anything for a year. This was very sound advice that prove invaluable.
We sailed the eastern USA for the first year of our cruising getting to know our
Amel. Only then did we make a couple of changes. We added an arch and solar. We
have tried to keep all systems on our vessel as close to the original design as
possible. We learned very quickly about the level of detailed thought that went
into the vessel design.
There is a very
good string in this group regarding lithium upgrades. You will find it is not
as easy as it sounds. You will also need to change alternators, battery chargers,
regulators etc. These are major expensive components for a three year plan. Why
not just install good quality batteries. Even if you change them all out midway,
this is still 20% of the cost of the upgrade. A good set of Firefly batteries will
last more than three years, again 1/3 the cost. I can see adding lithium for a
ten year plan, but not a three.
I see you make
no mention of a washer/dryer. Perhaps the most valuable piece of equipment on
our boat is the washer/dryer. We have learned in our travels how doing laundry
is a major pain. I can’t imagine cruising full-time without a washer/dryer.
This sure has made life on anchor a lot more comfortable.
I think your
idea of breaking even on upgrades you make to a vessel is a little myopic. All
the upgrades will do is sell the vessel faster when it goes to market. You will
never recoup monies spent on a boat. If you try, you’ll own the boat longer
than planned.
My advice,
either buy the Santorin and sail it as is. Or, buy the SM and sail it as is.
The SM will offer more comforts and in my opinion is easier to sail.
This is just my
2¢, I’m sure others will disagree. But, I’d love to see their viewpoints also.
With best
regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel
- Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently
cruising - Vista Mar, Panama
www.creampuff.us
Good evening everyone,
After many months of struggling between the Super Maramu and the Santorin, we
have settled on the Santorin to do a circumnavigation. In the end the main
reasons was cost and time. We considered the possibility that a
circumnavigation would take three years, in which all likelyhood we would never
use the boat again once we had finished. While the SM is the perfect boat for
us (if there is such a thing in yachting), the expenses involved to get the
boat up to scratch before we even set sail (let alone the cost of the boat) we
found hard to justify for a three year trip. So our next option is the
Santorin, in which we think we can modify the galley (to include washing
machine and extra bench space), modify the portside seating, add air con to the
aft cabin, possibly build a solar arch and install lithium batteries, plus
standard antifouling paint/servicing/other minor modifications for under $300k
AUD(including the purchase of the boat. Any thoughts on this scenario and its
feasibility would be most appreciated.
Regarding the Santorin, I have a few burning questions that i haven't been able
to source the information for. Does the Santorin have:
- Freezer under salon seating?
- Any aircon? ( and is there space to install aircon units in aft/forward
cabins and salon?)
- Is the Santorin 12V or 24V, and what is the advantage of having 24V compared
with 12V?
- If I install the lithium batteries in the passageway, is it possible to fit a
small generator in the engine room and do I need one? ( If I have lithium
batteries and solar arch, I figure I may only have to turn on the main engine
once a day to help charge the batteries with the lithium batteries holding
enough power to run aircon in aft cabin during the evening).
I understand purchasing a yacht I would most likely not make any money when it
came time to sell, though in this case i would hope to break even especially if
we went to the trouble of doing these modifications to the Santorin that future
buyers would appreciate. The only thing bugging me is whether the total cost
involved with such an enterprise would be mostly recovered or I am throwing
good money after bad and could perhaps be better off spending more to buy an SM
with less headache.
Again thoughts and recommendations greatly appreciated.
Kindest regards
Orion
|
|
|
Re: Maramu - Goiot Y-Track Mizzen Car Repair
Jeremy, Very nice. This is what we need, good clear pictures of what you did. I save all the how to articles. Nikimat was also one of my favorites for doing it this way. Many new to us AMEL owners will rely on these contributions. Simply put just telling me what you did, would for most people be. blah blah blah. So thank you.
Randall Amel 54 #56
|
|
|
Maramu - Goiot Y-Track Mizzen Car Repair
mr_hermanns
|
|
|
Re: Amel Santorin Specs and Alterations
Hi John, i understand from your email that you had 50 knots on the nose for three days on the way to Tonga I would like to learn from you. What sail did you have up and what angle to the wind were you sailing. Interested whether you were close hauled, tight reaching or hove to. You Southern Kiwis are tough. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
On 30 October 2019 at 21:26 JOHN HAYES <johnhayes862@...> wrote:
No we regularly get 50 plus knots in cook strait that are easier to deal with from a northerly direction than from the south. (Nothing between us and the Antarctic ). which means the wind cold and more constant or less gusty. In early July had 55 knots for three days trying to head north to Tonga past the kermadec islands.
I’m always happier to sail in 50 knots than be anchored waiting for an anchor to drag!
My boat is based in Wellington. Ie 41 degrees south and while in a westerly wind flow the winds alter course and are either north or south because of mountains and a wind funnel affect between the north and south islands
This is not territory for Mediterranean day sailors ........and I regret to say the new Amel designs which seem oriented to that market
My Santorin has proved safe though not always comfortable in these conditions ie 50 plus knots and 6 to 8 m waves. The point is to understand such conditions are not uncommon and a prudent skipper needs to be sure his boat ( and crew ) are up to the task. You may have noticed about a month ago a 47 foot yacht sank 35 miles off bream head off the bay of islands
The skipper died three crew rescued by helicopter...... in 50 knot winds. Not sure what brand of boat but I’ll bet money it was not a Santorin........ check it out in google or the yachting blogs
Answering your second question yes
And why would you not if you no your going to get caught in such conditions?? I’n my view it’s important to know that the skipper boat and crew are up for whatever might get thrown at them
And Hans Peter while your thinking spare a thought for one James Cook who 250 years ago wandered these parts in a small square rigged ship no engine no charts no sat nav or gps radio etc etc. got to tell you having followed some of his foot steps that he was an astonishingly competent seaman, sailor and navigator.
Best
John Hayes Nga Waka sn41
On 29/10/2019, at 10:32 AM, hanspeter baettig <hanspeter.baettig@...> wrote:
Sorry John 55 Kn = 10 Bft ------ Original Nachricht ------ Am Montag, 28. Okt, 2019 um 22:27, hanspeter baettig schrieb: Hi John Two questions only. You sailed headwinds in 55 kn , means 12 Btf. or you where at ancer in a shelterd bay 2.You tryed your Santorin by purpose in 50 kn of wind? fair winds Hanspeter waiting for a genious reply! Hanspeter Tamango 2 SM16 Martinique ------ Original Nachricht ------ Am Montag, 28. Okt, 2019 um 18:06, JOHN HAYES schrieb: Gidday Orion
I’ve done pretty much what your considering
So I began looking for a cruising ketch with centre cockpit and confined my choice to a Contest, Harley rassie (sp?) or an Amel and ended up with a Santorin and have been very happy with the choice. All amounts that follow are in NZ dollars
I came across a 1991 Santorin sailed to NZ from the Med. it has now had 4 owners and its name has been changed by each owner
I sailed it first around our South Island and the next year the north island and have just completed a voyage Wellington Nuku’alofa Vava’u Savusavu Denarau Vanuatu Noumea Wellington without incident except 55 knot head winds at times until a couple of days from Tonga
Living in the roaring 40’s we encounter strong winds at times.....I purposely took the boat out in winds of 50 plus knots to see what might break and those trips were important first to give me confidence in the boat. I had no previous knowledge of Amel and it’s systems
So costs
Boat $155k
Slip and take antifouling back to gel coat $10000. An extravagance!!! Should have set up with cover cost ....., Installed Zeus 2 chart plotter new wind gear and depth sounder $8000
Added AIS $1250
Replaced anchor chain with 120m 10mm Italian made chain $1500
Re galvanised anchors $200
On the first trip the Bimini blew apart replaced and redesigned in superior cloth $7500
The wind generator lost its feathers and I replaced with a silent wind $5000
We had to cut down the Genoa trying to get into akaroa harbour in 60 knots with the engine overheating and the headsail furling motor dying and I did not understand the need to cross over the sheets on the manual system
New Genoa $5000 rebuild furler motor and the gears in the gear box $4500
The motor was a Perkins 50 hp. It has a spline driven water pump which if not aligned precisely with a special tool chews up the spline in the water pump shaft. Happened twice cost $1250 each time for new spline and pump
Replaced the motor with a Volvo D250 and all skin fittings before heading to the pacific $32000
Brought new tender $3300 (don’t like it too heavy) plan to buy a carbon fibre replacement circa $8000
Replaced all mattresses and interior upholstery $8000
New main $3800. New mizzen $2000
New rigging $17000
Rebuilt the 3 furler motors $3000
Replaced stove $1600
New 6 person life raft $3800
Added a portable freezer to the front hanging locker. Been excellent $800. There is no freezer under the seats on my boat
Overhauled bow thruster $500
Overhauled spectra water maker by agent $750
Added second raycor fuel filter $750
Added forward scanner $2600. Might have been smarter to upgrade to a Zeus 3 has cheaper scanner connection.....I found Navico charts excellent and forward scanner marginal value
Replaced engine room fans $120
Replaced dodger windows $460
Replaced running rigging. $1500
Replaced flares added plbs life jackets. NZ required first aid kit $3500
Put on part b of the New outboard motor for tender $2000
I’ve also thought about adding an inner forestay which the SM has
My experience is that the prop generator and the wind generator provides all the power we have needed. We also have a couple of solar panels but don’t really need them
You might want to think about what you add to the stern. The large stern locker means we continually fight to minimise weight in the stern Because it affects bow stern trim. We carry the tender on the roof of the aft cabin which adds to the problem Have I over capitalised? To secure insurance for off shore cost $5200. I had to get the boat valued. The value was $260k
Hope the foregoing is of use to your consideration
The Santorin has excellent seakeeping qualities l love it!!
John Hayes Nga Waka sn 41
Wellington
On 29/10/2019, at 1:18 AM, Orion Martin < poonz1@... > wrote:
Good evening everyone,
After many months of struggling between the Super Maramu and the Santorin, we have settled on the Santorin to do a circumnavigation. In the end the main reasons was cost and time. We considered the possibility that a circumnavigation would take three years, in which all likelyhood we would never use the boat again once we had finished. While the SM is the perfect boat for us (if there is such a thing in yachting), the expenses involved to get the boat up to scratch before we even set sail (let alone the cost of the boat) we found hard to justify for a three year trip. So our next option is the Santorin, in which we think we can modify the galley (to include washing machine and extra bench space), modify the portside seating, add air con to the aft cabin, possibly build a solar arch and install lithium batteries, plus standard antifouling paint/servicing/other minor modifications for under $300k AUD(including the purchase of the boat. Any thoughts on this scenario and its feasibility would be most appreciated.
Regarding the Santorin, I have a few burning questions that i haven't been able to source the information for. Does the Santorin have:
- Freezer under salon seating?
- Any aircon? ( and is there space to install aircon units in aft/forward cabins and salon?)
- Is the Santorin 12V or 24V, and what is the advantage of having 24V compared with 12V?
- If I install the lithium batteries in the passageway, is it possible to fit a small generator in the engine room and do I need one? ( If I have lithium batteries and solar arch, I figure I may only have to turn on the main engine once a day to help charge the batteries with the lithium batteries holding enough power to run aircon in aft cabin during the evening).
I understand purchasing a yacht I would most likely not make any money when it came time to sell, though in this case i would hope to break even especially if we went to the trouble of doing these modifications to the Santorin that future buyers would appreciate. The only thing bugging me is whether the total cost involved with such an enterprise would be mostly recovered or I am throwing good money after bad and could perhaps be better off spending more to buy an SM with less headache.
Again thoughts and recommendations greatly appreciated.
Kindest regards
Orion
</hanspeter.baettig@...>
|
|
|
Dave,
It would be a pleasure to connect with you if the timing works out. We are also at Cleopatra. We could be back as early as Feb. as we would like to sail the Agean and perhaps to Turkey outside of the Meltimi season and when there hopefully will not be so many charter boats! Unfortunately I cannot say for sure since depending on work it could be as late as June. You are welcome to drop me an email ( Lokiyawl2@...) anytime to try and coordinate something. We may even be on the same row since there is another Amel just a few boats over from us that might be a SN. Due to some rescheduling and the rush of putting the boat away there wasn’t much time left over to explore unfortunately. If you find my boat before I return let me know and I will do the same.
Best,
James SV Sueno Maramu #220
Hi James, I would defer to Craig and Ian regarding the headliner replacement project since Liesse had this done professionally when we bought her. I appreciate your suggestion regarding the trim pieces after accessing the bolts, will consider that. BTW we are at Cleopatra this winter, will be back in late April, early May, if you are still there we should connect. Best, Dave
On Oct 29, 2019, at 5:45 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io < lokiyawl2@...> wrote:
Dave,
I would like to eventually replace the entire liner in my boat as well so am curious about how the job went? The flat areas of the overhead look pretty straight forward but what about the areas such as the pass thru which are a compound shape? What techniques did you use to get the fabric to fit the compound shape and have you had any problems? I would also like to identify the best adhesive to use for the job. I like your idea of going with a lighter colour.
If you can positively identify the location of the handrail bolts, you can cover your cuts through the liner for access by using varnished wooden blocks that will also allow future access. African Mah
ogany selected for colour should match the rest of the interior pretty well I think. If done well these blocks can actually improve the overall appearance. You can use either round head, flat head or oval head screws that are left exposed to secure the blocks which makes future removal for inspection very easy.
James Alton SV Sueno Maramu #220 Preveza, Greece
Hi Miles, Just a thought here. I also have a small leak there and have temporarily sealed it externally so can not speak to the logistics of the headliner directly. Liesse has had the entire headliner in all cabins replaced with a lighter white headliner which really serves to open and brighten the spaces. If you are doing an entire space i personally might take the opportunity to go lighter. I haven t tackled a true leak repair yet largely because it looks like i will have to in some way mar this really nice headliner, but know i m just kicking the can down the road here.Best, Dave LiesseSN006On Oct 29, 2019, at 3:02 PM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:
Hello
A leak on the stainless grab rails on the aft cabin top has lead to some discolouration of the headliner during previous ownership.
I’m hoping to leave the Headliner trim on the vertical window sections in place as it’s not stained at all but also I can’t see any easy way of removing this other than taking the windows out to expose, I presume, hidden screws that hold internal ply backing in place.
Has anyone tried this ?
I’m considering not gluing new headliner directly but instead templating thin ply then covering this and screwing the ply sections to the roof. Hopefully this will work ok 🤞
Also does anyone have any experience of a good headliner match for the vintage Maramus ?
Many thanks in advance
Miles
Maramu 162
|
|
|
Re: Good Article on How Racor Fuel Filters Work
|
|
|
Re: Remote two way valve for flushing the water maker
Alan Leslie
Hi Dan,
I took a 24V positive feed from the 24V supply that's on the forward wall of the engine room to a circuit breaker mounted in the same box as the watermaker cct breaker. From the cct breaker to a relay which is controlled by the timer. From the other side of the relay to the positive feed to the FW pump in parallele with the positive feed from the galley cct breaker for the FW pump.
I switch off the galley cct breaker when leaving the boat and set the timer to Auto.
No, there is no interference with the normal operation of the FW pump.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
|
|
|
Thanks guys
I’ll let you know how I get on
Cheers
Miles
|
|
|
Nicolas Klene
Hello Annesophie & Jonas
Your stove modification sounds terrific ! Could you share the plan of the housing for the cooktop and the store ?
Kind regards
Nick
sv DarNico
sm2k #471
|
|
|
Re: Leroy Somer Spare parts
Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
He Paul
I replay tomorow but i think you can order only when you have a company
But no problen in the worst case i can do it for you
Elja
Von meinem iPhone gesendet
|
|
|
Re: Leroy Somer Spare parts
Paul Osterberg
Elja thank you would very much appreciate details for where to order, I have tried but not succeeded
Paul
|
|
|
Re: Leroy Somer Spare parts
Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
He paul ,
We ordert new gaerboxes in Italy and install one new .
It was not expencive
Only the leroy somer motor you ca order it only by amel
It was not possoble to order the motor by leroy somer
When you intrested i will lock tomorow for some fotos and mre details
Best
Elja
SM Balu 222
Von meinem iPhone gesendet
|
|
|
david bruce
Hi James, I would defer to Craig and Ian regarding the headliner replacement project since Liesse had this done professionally when we bought her. I appreciate your suggestion regarding the trim pieces after accessing the bolts, will consider that. BTW we are at Cleopatra this winter, will be back in late April, early May, if you are still there we should connect. Best, Dave
On Oct 29, 2019, at 5:45 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io < lokiyawl2@...> wrote:
Dave,
I would like to eventually replace the entire liner in my boat as well so am curious about how the job went? The flat areas of the overhead look pretty straight forward but what about the areas such as the pass thru which are a compound shape? What techniques did you use to get the fabric to fit the compound shape and have you had any problems? I would also like to identify the best adhesive to use for the job. I like your idea of going with a lighter colour.
If you can positively identify the location of the handrail bolts, you can cover your cuts through the liner for access by using varnished wooden blocks that will also allow future access. African Mah
ogany selected for colour should match the rest of the interior pretty well I think. If done well these blocks can actually improve the overall appearance. You can use either round head, flat head or oval head screws that are left exposed to secure the blocks which makes future removal for inspection very easy.
James Alton SV Sueno Maramu #220 Preveza, Greece
Hi Miles, Just a thought here. I also have a small leak there and have temporarily sealed it externally so can not speak to the logistics of the headliner directly. Liesse has had the entire headliner in all cabins replaced with a lighter white headliner which really serves to open and brighten the spaces. If you are doing an entire space i personally might take the opportunity to go lighter. I haven t tackled a true leak repair yet largely because it looks like i will have to in some way mar this really nice headliner, but know i m just kicking the can down the road here.Best, Dave LiesseSN006On Oct 29, 2019, at 3:02 PM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:
Hello
A leak on the stainless grab rails on the aft cabin top has lead to some discolouration of the headliner during previous ownership.
I’m hoping to leave the Headliner trim on the vertical window sections in place as it’s not stained at all but also I can’t see any easy way of removing this other than taking the windows out to expose, I presume, hidden screws that hold internal ply backing in place.
Has anyone tried this ?
I’m considering not gluing new headliner directly but instead templating thin ply then covering this and screwing the ply sections to the roof. Hopefully this will work ok 🤞
Also does anyone have any experience of a good headliner match for the vintage Maramus ?
Many thanks in advance
Miles
Maramu 162
|
|
|
Checking to see if anyone would be interested in showing off their SM or 54 to me an the girlfriend the weekend of 9 - 12 November in the Hampton Roads area.
Cheers!
Brian
|
|
|
Paul Osterberg
I discover today that the two lids on the Leroy Sumer gear box for the main furler was broken. Any chance that anyone of you has a lid or two laying around and could sell those. also interested in other spare parts from the box as the worm ger itself i.e. the cog wheel.
Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259 Lagos, Portugal
|
|
|
Craig Briggs
Miles,
On our SN there's a thin wood finish trim strip that's nailed on the inside. That has to carefully be pried off to expose a row of bolts that need to be removed in addition to the screws holding the exterior metal trim. On ours, the plywood was also well adhered with silicone.
Good luck with it,
Craig
|
|
|
Miles
Correct for Santorin. I presume it may be the same on the Maramu.
A tip when finishing any overlaps of the new fabric on the sides - scrape the foam backing off the overlapping section so it’s just vinyl to vinyl.
It wasn’t too hard a job. Resealing the hatch took two goes. I didn’t use enough sealant first time.
Have fun!
Ian
Ocean Hobo SN96
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On 30 Oct 2019, at 13:41, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Ian
Many thanks for this response
Can I just confirm how you managed to remove the ply window panels?
Sounds like you are saying that as soon as the window screws and bolts were out then the ply panel could be pulled free from inside?
I had assumed there would be some blind screws hidden behind the window acrylic
If not then that is good news. Just take all screws and through bolts out and pull the ply free
Redo headliner around the windows then replace ply
I was going to do exactly the same wrt ply panels on Velcro 👍👍
Many thanks again
Miles
On 30 Oct 2019, at 08:57, Ian <parkianj@gmail.com> wrote:
|
|
|
