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Re: 24v alternator pulley
Hello Nick,
We have the Leece Neville alternator with a smart reg on Elyse ...twin belt pulley...and no dust...and the belts are fine after years. Previous experience with this leads me to believe that the pulley is the problem. You don't need much of an imperfection in the pulley groove to lead to belt destruction. The belt should be sitting in the pulley groove, not bottoming out and the faces of the pulley groove must be absolutely devoid of any corrosion or dirt, anything. Ours has worked perfectly for the last 6 years ....and the big advantage of this setup is that the 2 belts on the LN 175A alternator are the same size as the belt on the small alt that charges the start battery. Cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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Re: Latest RigRite.com Goiot Tradition Prices 2019!
Andrew Eaves <andyeaves@...>
Hi Charles
Fantastic work and yes please. I don't need much as a repair but if you have sets that aren't costing much I may replace them all to match. My email address is andyeaves@... to note if you can send me a list of what you have, it would be appreciated. Do you know of a reasonable place to get the gaskets short of the same marine shops? Thanks
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Re: Engine Water leakage
Hi LO,
Your mechanic's educated guess could be correct, but not necessarily so. As I noted this could simply be a leaking freeze plug. I've had both and they are identical in appearance, that is, both drip down behind the timing belt cover and cannot be seen at the source. One costs $1, the other costs $179 ($184 with gasket sealant) from Parts 4 Diesels (don't know about European sourcing). You won't know until you pull the plastic timing belt housing off (after removing timing belt, drive and cam shaft pulleys, fuel pump pulley, idlers, etc.) Do not remove the water pump until you spot the leak so you will know if it is the pump or the freeze plug behind the pump. If you've got an oil leak too, it's easy and cheap to replace the front seals while you've got the timing cover off. (Well, the seals are cheap - as is my labor - don't know about a mechanic's charge if you're not doing the work yourself.) Good luck with it, Craig
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Re: 24v alternator pulley
James Alton
Nick,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
High output alternators and their pulleys can run pretty hot even when properly set up which seems to be a big factor in the dust problem and the early failure. With twin belts it is of course critical that the two belts be a perfectly matched set so that they share the load equally so try to buy belts from the same batch and don’t mix if at all possible. I had a customer with a twin belt setup with a 200 amp large case alternator that was going through belts in a relatively short period and what a mess the engine room was. I switched him to the Gates Fleetrunner belts used for long haul truckers and the belt dressing was greatly reduced and the failures pretty much stopped. Marine Pro liked the belts enough to begin putting them on customers engines too when possible. Might be worth giving them a try though unfortunately I have sometimes had problems finding the exact size that I needed. Best of luck, James SV Sueno, Maramu #220 Now high and dry in Preveza
On Oct 25, 2019, at 4:27 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: 24v alternator pulley
I have a new engine and 24v alternator with the belt. Still new so far am pleased with the set up.
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24v alternator pulley
I am still not completely happy with the 24v 175A alternator installation on Amelia.
There is belt dust that is annoying, and they do not last very long. I have checked the alignment and it is pretty good. The alternator is nearly new. I have a smart regulator that ramps up the load gradually. The two idler pulley are not perfect. So I will have them machined down say 0.5mm and new bearings and check they are true. Maybe this is the problem? The faces of the grooved pulleys are smooth. So far the best belt in terms of longevity is the Mitsubishi Set Free SPB 1320LW. Belt tension; I do not have a gauge and do it by feel. Perhaps it is time to buy the tension gauge? What I am beginning to think is that I should change from twin v pulleys to a Serpentine grooved pulley with a single wide belt. I could use the existing idlers and the tensioner. Change the PTO pulley and the alternator pulley. Has anyone done this? Or does anyone have any thoughts. Nick S/Y Amelia anchored in the south of Peloponnisos AML 54-019
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Re: Engine Water leackage
Santorin LO
As bitter as as can... However, Mechanic suggested leak from fresh water pump (must be right as leakage is from the back (under the timing) + leakage from oil gasket in the same area - made a lot of sense as both are coming from there.
On Thursday, October 24, 2019, 06:14:50 PM GMT+3, Bernd Spanner <bernd.spanner@...> wrote:
I had a similar colored liquid in my bilge. after a long search it turned out to be the red gear box oil mixed with diesel. reason was leaking gearbox and leaking diesel hp pump. fixed both and all is fine now. you might also want to check on the heat exchanger lines if everything is tightened properly. what does the liquid smell / taste like? -- Bernd SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal
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Re: tb/BRISBANE area marina & yard/AYOG
Hi Matt,
Thanks for the suggestion but, in all honesty, except for this forum I avoid any social media as I am looking for qualified advice 😊.
Have gotten real, real helpful feedback so far and it worked. I think I am all covered by now thanks to this Forum.
Best Regards Teun SV AMELIT A54 #128
NOUMEA NEW CALEDONIA October 25, 2019 16:22:09
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2019 22:54 To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] tb/BRISBANE area marina & yard/AYOG
Try asking on the Sailing Australia FB page..... ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
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Re: tb/BRISBANE area marina & yard/AYOG
Hi Dean,
Sydney – very possible but not before I have done maintenance & back in the water next year.
Would really like meeting and discussing our boats 😊.
Best Regards Teun SV AMELIT A54 #128
NOUMEA NEW CALEDONIA October 25, 2019 14:35:13
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of SY STELLA via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2019 14:33 To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] tb/BRISBANE area marina & yard/AYOG
Hi Tuen,
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Re: tb/BRISBANE area marina & yard/AYOG
Hi Tuen,
Let me know if you are coming to Sydney and we can have a meet-up. I considered buying your boat in 2017! cheers Dean SY Stella A54-154
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Re: Yanmar Diesel Won't Stay Running
Chad & Leslie Shoaf
Had this happen with a clogged vet line. Wasps and other things build nest in them. Creates a vacuum in the fuel tank. Chad
On Thu, Oct 24, 2019, 8:37 AM Mark Garver via Groups.Io <mgarver=me.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: Latest RigRite.com Goiot Tradition Prices 2019!
Charles Bell
Hello Andrew,
I agree! The part is called an Axel bolt and I already have a batch of 100, along with other parts CNC cut in Aluminum and Anodized. They should be back to me in a few weeks... I will be happy to hook you (and anyone else who wants some) up. I think they are costing me a couple of dollars each. I also had the shop make the knobs (male and female) Feel free to reach out to me if you would like a few of them. If the response is strong, I can increase the order size. Charles SV Jupiter
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Re: Remote two way valve for flushing the water maker
Oh and I should have said the 24VDC timer also sends 24VDC to a relay which switches power to the FW pump so you don;t need to leave the boat with FW pump switch on. The relay and a circuit breaker for the pump supply are mounted in the circuit breaker box for the watermaker etc on the engine room forward wall.
Cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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Re: Remote two way valve for flushing the water maker
Hi Paul,
I bought two 24V DC Solenoid valves on Ebay, one NO the other NC. The NO valve is in the saltwater feed line and the NC Valve replaces the manual flush valve and feeds fresh water through a TEE into the filter housing. The bottom of the 3 connectors on the TEE has the NO solenoid for saltwater supply connected to it. The solenoid valves are wired to a small 24VDC digital timer, also from Ebay which is ,mounted in the cupboard space above the sink. The timer has 3 functions OFF, MANUAL, AUTO. When away from the boat, we ensure the water tank is full and the timer is set to Auto to flush for two minutes at 1000 Mon, Wed, Friday. It only uses about 4-5 litres each flush. The whole set up probably cost less than $100. Cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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Re: Remote two way valve for flushing the water maker
David Wallace
Paul, I bought two ss 12v solenoid water valves on eBay, one normally open, one normally closed. If I remember correctly they were about $50 each. Unpowered feeds saltwater to the RO, powered feeds freshwater from the tank. Ran wires to the companionway area
with a single switch. The switch is wired through the RO on/off power switch so the solenoids can’t be switched unless the system is running. It’s worked well for 9 years now.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Dave Wallace
s/v Air Ops
Maramu #104
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Re: Yanmar Diesel Won't Stay Running
typo: should have been "normally open electromagnetic valve" --
On Thu, Oct 24, 2019 at 5:39 PM CW Bill Rouse via Groups.Io <brouse=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: Yanmar Diesel Won't Stay Running
I have been following this thread. While I agree that it is a fuel issue, don't forget about the normally closed electromagnetic fuel cutoff valve. Maybe you have a poor connection with the off button, relay, or cutoff valve. Good luck. Best, CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School - www.AmelYachtOwnersSchool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Thu, Oct 24, 2019, 5:22 PM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
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Re: Yanmar Diesel Won't Stay Running
Mark,
Sorry not on the boat right now but I seem to remember on the Yanmar the fuel filter has a drain on the bottom. You could sample your diesel from there and put it into a glass container. Let it sit and look for separation.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Mark Garver via Groups.Io
Mark,
Unfortunately not. But I think I can put a hose in the bottom of the tank and pump some out to see. At least that is the current plan as well as ensuring the filter is clean.
Thanks,
Mark S/V It's Good SM #105
On October 24, 2019 at 10:30 AM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
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Re: seals orientation
Hello José,
While on the subject of seal orientation, some time ago (maybe 2-3 years?), you installed your prop shaft seals in a different orientation than the "Amel way". I recall you had the three seals, from front to back (first to last when installing) with the first two facing out (open side toward the sea) and the last one facing in (open side toward oil). Your logic was great - that we're trying to keep water out and so have the maximum protection of the first two do just that, with any oil seepage giving lubrication and the outer seal stopping oil from escaping to sea. How has that worked out - is your oil still pristine? Great timing on getting out of a chilly Boston! Best regards, Craig
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Re: Yanmar Diesel Won't Stay Running
Mark McGovern
Mark,
I should have asked this question in my first post but what model Yanmar engine is it? If its newer one with electronically controlled fuel injection via an Electronic Control Unit (ECU) than my first response is invalid as it was referring to older (all mechanical) diesel engines. -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA
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