Subject: Outhaul on Supermaramu

 

Hi Bill,

 On page 30 of your excellent ( May 2019)  Amel book appears a photo of the drive arm which connects the gearbox to the Andersen winch. On that arm is a bronze bushing.

 Can you explain where this bushing fits ?  Presumably it is not part of the gearbox ? Does that mean that it sits in the boom itself and helps to keep the drive arm in place rather than placing all the stress on the bolt which attaches the drive arm to the winch?

 The reason I ask is that since my drive arm was replaced in 2009 the four bolts attaching the bearbox to the bracket on the boom have worked to elongate the holes in the bracket.  I am about to dismount the boom, detach the arm and gearbox and have a new floor fitted to bracket with new holes drilled.   I am half expecting to find that when the drive arm was fitted in 2009 ( no names mentioned--but it wasn't me ! ) the bush was omitted and that has resulted in the wear on the bracket.

 Anyone else had a similar problem ?

Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada, Greece

Great.  Thank you.  Is any primer necessary, or simply pile on the coats?

-James

On Oct 19, 2019, at 10:01 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

James,

Ditto on what Karen said. It is water base, flexible, and will need 3-5 coats. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.AmelYachtOwnersSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sat, Oct 19, 2019, 7:49 PM Karen Smith via Groups.Io <karenharmonie=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Use paint made for inflatable dinghies. The bumper is made of dense closed cell polyurethane foam. We have used the West Marine Brand with excellent luck by following preparation directions _exactly_.  We re-paint once a year and have never had a failure of the paint. 

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--top-coating-for-inflatable-boats-gray-quart--P010_301_001_501  (Pick your favorite color!)

Anything else will be too brittle and crack off, epoxy will be even worse.  You really should use a water based paint, since some solvents can attack the surface of the closed cell foam leaving you worse off than before you started.

Painting this part BEFORE it needs it is key to keeping it protected from UV and having a long lasting, good looking, bumper.  They are expensive, and sometime hard to get. Take good care of it and it will last a very long time.

Paul, I painted my main mast with alwgrip ten yrs. and it was a perfect match. I just sanded it with 320 grit and then roll and tipped it , I did not prime it other than a few spots where I had corrosion. Having the boat repainted this winter due to a 47' cat who drug anchor and hit us at 4:30 am. in Guadeloupe . I will try to determine the paint color and get back ,need to anyway as I plan to paint the mizzen mast and the booms since I will be demasting the boat to go into a shed for painting .

Pat,

SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: John Clark <john.biohead@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sun, Oct 20, 2019 9:03 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen mast paint.

Hi Paul,

  I used a spray can mixed at a NAPA autoparts store.  Check the Forum for my post.  Am at work...will send you accurate paint code when I get home

On Sun, Oct 20, 2019, 8:48 AM Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote:

I need to tuch up some patches on my mizzen boom. Going tu use Alwgrip but do not know the colour code for our 1999 vintage SM 2000#259. Anyone who can guide me to the right colour? 
Anyone who have painted your self who kan give advice on how to. What primer did you use?
Paul on SY Kerpa SM 259 Lagos 

Hi Bill what’s your thoughts on using copper wire, instead of the strap. Will this provide enough electrical conductivity?

Regards

Ross

SV INTREPID KIWI

SM2K 356

Currently Croatia


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Sunday, October 20, 2019, 9:34 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

This is the one and only time that I will say that the Amel OEM part is not the best part.

Amel uses a thin copper foil for the bonding strap inside the gray water bilge. In terms of electrical conductivity, it is perfect. In terms of durability it is not good enough. The gray PVC float switch tube sits on top of the copper foil and will wear through the copper foil in a few years. If you buy the Amel OEM copper foil, I suggest you buy 2 because you will likely need to replace it again in a few years. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.AmelYachtOwnersSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sun, Oct 20, 2019, 1:34 PM Randall Walker <lladnarowen@...> wrote:

That is awesome Robin.

I will be onto it in the morning.

All the best,

Randall

---

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of robin hutter via Groups.Io <robin6658=yahoo.com@groups.io>
Sent: October 20, 2019 2:31 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Ground strap in bilge

 

I think it was around 90 euros — just tell them the bonding strap for the bilge of a SM — they will know what it is.

It was easy to get to the cables but was a problem to loosen the nut on the keelbolt as we needed a special high tool (30 mm) as the boöt was to high for a normal one.

Robin 

Amel 54 # 54

Carré d‘As


Gesendet von Yahoo Mail für iPad

Am Sonntag, Oktober 20, 2019, 19:20 schrieb Randall Walker <lladnarowen@...>:

Thanks Robin,

Did you have an part order # for the strap. I'm in Spain and you would think copper is gold down here. I just cant find a supplier.

I am looking at doing the mast step as well. Eight hours you say, were the wires easy to get at?

Thanks again,

Randall

54 #56

---

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of robin hutter via Groups.Io <robin6658=yahoo.com@groups.io>
Sent: October 20, 2019 7:57 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Ground strap in bilge

 

I got mine from Amel — you can check on our Blog

Robin

Amel 54 # 54in Roda de Bara

Carré d‘As

http://www.sailing4ever.com 

Gesendet von Yahoo Mail für iPad

When Bill recently did the timing belt on our engine, he used a good belt tension gauge, and a dial indicator to re-time the injection pump.  He also replaced the tension and idler pulleys.  They weren't expensive, and are critical bearings that are really easy to change while you have the belt off anyway.

If you look at the shop manual, one of the last steps is to reset the timing of the injection pump.  That is an important step that people seem to frequently skip. The camshaft and the crankshaft are locked in place (6mm bolts work as well as the $pecial pin$ from Volvo!) and as you tension the belt, the shaft of the injection pump will rotate--at least a little bit.  If you don't reset it, fuel injection timing will be off, and that is a bad thing.  Late injection will result in unburned fuel and reduced power, early injection can seriously damage the engine if the fuel ignites significantly before TDC. The adjustment is a little fiddly, but not hard.

It might be our imagination, but it sure looks like we accumulate a lot less soot on the hull after this job. Could fine tuning  the pump timing have helped with this chronic problem?

This is a very important project on these engines.  If the belt breaks or gets loose enough to jump a couple cogs the valves and pistons will hit each other and in seconds your engine turns into a very expensive mooring anchor. It's worth doing better than just eyeballing the belt tension, which is really high and quite hard to do by feel.