Date   

Re: Bow Thruster Service

 

JL Mertz, CottonBay:

Yes, it should be "easy."

There are 4 Allen head bolts on most SN & SMs, but in later model SMs, 2 bolts. It is always easy if the bow thruster is serviced correctly, with seal replacement when needed, and never left DOWN while sailing. 

But, if you don't follow the above, you'll be lucky if it's easy. 


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Thu, Aug 29, 2019, 12:35 AM jlm@... <jlm@...> wrote:

Hello,

if the 4 bolts that hold the bow thruster are out it should be easy,

Drive the bow thruster simply go down, then from the outside of the boat rotate the bow thruster, possibly by a movement rotation back and forth. Always sweet ...

JL Mertz

CottonBay


Le 28/08/2019 à 20:33, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io a écrit :
Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Bernd,

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):
<image.png>
You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Lift the Perkins 4236 on a Mango

Bill Fletcher
 

When we removed my old Perkins they placed a beam across the boat and used a a manual chain hoist. It worked very  well. 

On Thu, Aug 29, 2019 at 8:59 PM Frederic F <fgf@...> wrote:
Hi Amelowners,

we intend to change the engine mountings on our Perkins 4236 and did order the rubber parts from Amel. Now we need to lift the engine to get the old ones out and the new rubber underneath. Has anyone of you an idea whats the most pleasant way to lift the engine? We thought to use a pulley or something similar. Would be really great if anyone of you has some tips for us.

Thank you in advance.

Best,
Family Fießer 
Mango #14


Re: Maramu weight for lift out

christian alby <calbyy@...>
 

ours weighed 14 tons last time (May 2019) lifted by Rolling gear with weight cells on 4 points; note weight cells were not certified therefore error rate + or - 10% applies to be on sage side.
had about 350 L diesel, 100 L water & full supplies, Tools & cruising paraphrenalia on board
hope this helps 

christian alby - Désirade VIII - Maramu 116 - now in Canet Roussillon

Christian Alby - France home fixe +33 (0)5 34 39 06 02 home Internet +33 (0)9 60 37 22 72 mobile +33 (0)6 42 69 07 80


Le jeudi 29 août 2019 à 05:25:58 UTC−4, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> a écrit :


Hi there
I'm trying to orgainse a haul out in the UK for our 1985 Maramu 46
I believe displacement is 12T but would like to know what total weight might be
Has anyone lifted and weighed?
I'll be dropping all water but keeping the diesel tank full to prevent condensation
The yard I have approached close to home believe she might be too heavy so info very much appreciated 
Many thanks in advance
Miles


Re: Lift the Perkins 4236 on a Mango

christian alby <calbyy@...>
 

We did it already on our Maramu, lifting off & replacing engine afloat.
A stout piece of timber on top of engine, resting on cockpit side benches & main sheet did the trick once the engine was disconnected from its holding bolts fastenings to the support frame ...
This was the hard part 
- one nut on rear aft stb side gave poor access with the famous 1/8th of a turn with open wrench already grinded to enter space betwen batteries compartment & engine base; guess you can expect one of those
- engine base & mountings stuck by grease, & salt & whatever when trying to lift first, high resistance countered using crowbar & wooden block & wedges & sledgehammer (cautious when beating).
- removal of shaft was easy enough (4 bolts & nuts 10mm) then moved by hand; reverse to connect checking alignement respected when reinstating (clock markings on flange helped)
all makes an interesting day of work, & good Opportunity to clean Bottom & repair paint work. Satisfaction when completed - do not forget to check tightening of bolts on support frame after a while running - they come loose unless you Added loctite on threads.

Meanwhile fair winds & Following seas 

chrsitian alby - Désirade VIII - Maramu 116 - now in Canet Roussillon




Le jeudi 29 août 2019 à 05:28:30 UTC−4, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> a écrit :


HI there
When we dis this on our Maramu we just put a i-Beam across the (padded) cockpit coaming and then used a lifting tackle off that 
It worked well and was very simple 
I presume the same would apply for the Mango but i'm not sure if you have the same lifting cockpit floor engine access?
All the best
M


Re: Lift the Perkins 4236 on a Mango

smiles bernard
 

HI there
When we dis this on our Maramu we just put a i-Beam across the (padded) cockpit coaming and then used a lifting tackle off that 
It worked well and was very simple 
I presume the same would apply for the Mango but i'm not sure if you have the same lifting cockpit floor engine access?
All the best
M


Maramu weight for lift out

smiles bernard
 

Hi there
I'm trying to orgainse a haul out in the UK for our 1985 Maramu 46
I believe displacement is 12T but would like to know what total weight might be
Has anyone lifted and weighed?
I'll be dropping all water but keeping the diesel tank full to prevent condensation
The yard I have approached close to home believe she might be too heavy so info very much appreciated 
Many thanks in advance
Miles


Re: Maramu locker door mishap

smiles bernard
 

It does indeed look like there is a small rubber insert in the top rubber track. 
Many thanks Rainer and Wade for the tip - saved me likely damaging the door by brute force.
Yet again - great forum 
Many thanks all
Miles
maramu 162



On Tuesday, August 20, 2019, 11:41:42 AM GMT+1, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:


Thanks very much for this folks
I’ll hunt the rubber insert when next on board but I’ve not seen it yet. I’ve also failed to spot any section that allows a lift to remove 
I’ll double check this weekend and let you know what I find 
Thanks again
Miles 


On 13 Aug 2019, at 17:07, Wade Shikoski via Groups.Io <n2everythg@...> wrote:

Rainer is correct.
on the 83 maramu  the slider rails are both glued and finish nailed to the facing which is 8 mm veneered ply. Dont try to remove the rails or you will deface the laminate..... 
on the 83 as rainer stated there are small rubber hose in the slot of the runner. You must remove the rubber hose then carefully lift the sliding door out. then there are 2 screws on the back of the sliding door to remove the handle. 
best of luck. 
Ask me how I know.. I learned the hard way.. 


Lift the Perkins 4236 on a Mango

Frederic F
 

Hi Amelowners,

we intend to change the engine mountings on our Perkins 4236 and did order the rubber parts from Amel. Now we need to lift the engine to get the old ones out and the new rubber underneath. Has anyone of you an idea whats the most pleasant way to lift the engine? We thought to use a pulley or something similar. Would be really great if anyone of you has some tips for us.

Thank you in advance.

Best,
Family Fießer 
Mango #14


Re: Bow Thruster Service

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

Hello,

if the 4 bolts that hold the bow thruster are out it should be easy,

Drive the bow thruster simply go down, then from the outside of the boat rotate the bow thruster, possibly by a movement rotation back and forth. Always sweet ...

JL Mertz

CottonBay


Le 28/08/2019 à 20:33, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io a écrit :
Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Bernd,

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):
<image.png>
You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Engine Battery cable to starter motor to be replaced - looking for experience

Dominique Guenot
 

Hello, 

Thank you all for these answers and advices. 

The electrician tested for resistance the cables from engine batteries to starter motor.
The cables were fine (couple of ohms as expected) but the positive switch tested at 1300 Ohm and the negative switch at 80 Ohm.  
Completely out of whack and I am ordering them with Amel. 
 
We also discovered that we have a loose contact at the stater motor, that we were able to resolve only after we unmounted the starter motor - access is difficult - on the Yanmar. We rethreaded the starter motor screw. 

Finally we replaced the starter relay which was not working consistently and did some electrical housekeeping on the starter circuit. 

Why the switch failed?
Possibly the loose contact 
Possibly the fact that I never turn them on/off - as someone mentionned it in the thread - great insight. 

Measuring the resistance was new to me and I can do it with my own meter. It is easy and I got a crash course :-)

Thanks again for your help 
Dominique 
sv Viva 
SM #374
Papeete, French Polynesia  


Re: In Martinique looking at Amels

Orion Martin
 

Hi Kelly and Darren,

I am currently looking at Amels with a view to purchase in the next two years. I have seen two SMs advertised in Martinique. Any information you think would be relevant concerning purchasing in this area would be most appreciated.


Re: Bow Thruster Service

Matt Salatino
 

Thx, Bill, I read them all!

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 4:03 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Matt,

There is lots to learn. Because Amels last so long and because we have over 1,000 members, you will see lots of things that do not apply to the Amel 50...she is the new little sister.

Please continue reading the posts and continue participating.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 4:36 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks,
What a relief!

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 12:20 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Matt,

This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Good to know

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Mat,

It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat.  "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Bernd,

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):
<image.png>
You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Bow Thruster Service

 

Matt,

There is lots to learn. Because Amels last so long and because we have over 1,000 members, you will see lots of things that do not apply to the Amel 50...she is the new little sister.

Please continue reading the posts and continue participating.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 4:36 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks,
What a relief!

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 12:20 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Matt,

This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Good to know

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Mat,

It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat.  "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Bernd,

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):
<image.png>
You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Bow Thruster Service

Matt Salatino
 

Thanks,
What a relief!

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 12:20 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Matt,

This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Good to know

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Mat,

It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat.  "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Bernd,

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):
<image.png>
You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Bow Thruster Service

 

Ruedi,

This thread was started by an owner of a Santorin. The Santorin and Super Maramu Bow Thrusters are very similar and made by Amel. The Bow Thruster on the 54 and 55 are very different and made by SidePower. The 50 Bow Thruster is smaller than the 54 and probably from SidePower, but I do not know for sure.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 3:21 PM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:
Hi Bill

only on SN & SM? ...not on A-54? Different as well I guess? 
Haven't serviced BT on my 54 yet. 

Best regards
 Ruedi
WASABI A-54-#55


On 28 Aug 2019, at 21:20, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Matt,

This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Good to know

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Mat,

It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat.  "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Bernd,

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):
<image.png>
You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Bow Thruster Service

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi Bill

only on SN & SM? ...not on A-54? Different as well I guess? 
Haven't serviced BT on my 54 yet. 

Best regards
 Ruedi
WASABI A-54-#55


On 28 Aug 2019, at 21:20, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Matt,

This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Good to know

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Mat,

It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat.  "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Bernd,

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):
<image.png>
You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Bow Thruster Service

James Alton
 

Bill is right about being careful in heating grp.  Grp can delaminate/crack and thereby destroying the strength of the material if too much heat is applied.  I used to build GRP stack sampling equipment that could barely handle 350F..not much.

James
SV Sueno
Budva,  Montenegro 



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Date: 8/28/19 7:21 PM (GMT+01:00)
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow Thruster Service

Bernd,

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

image.png
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):
image.png
You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Bow Thruster Service

Mike Ondra
 

Here’s another twist on bow thruster service.

We services ours yesterday, on the hard, so no extra complications from doing it in the water. Last service less than a year ago was in the water, and we were not confident that the reinstall was completely waterproof. Indeed, it was not, and we had our share of oil and cream.

Anyway after removing the 4 bolts that hold the GRP shaft, the motor housing spun freely on the GRP, but the thruster would not drop. We surmised that the splined connection between the motor shaft and thruster drive shaft had seized. No amount of tugging from below would move it. Ultimately we lowered the bow thruster and from below lifted it a few inches and “bumped” it with a short drop, well maybe a little bit more than a short drop to get results.

Anyway, the lesson is to lubricate the splined connection when reassembling the bow thruster to prevent seizing. We used Molykote.

Mike & Tom

ALETES SM#240

Chesapeake Bay

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2019 2:53 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow Thruster Service

 

Good to know

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Mat,

 

It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat.  "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse

720 Winnie St

Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Image removed by sender.

 

 

On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Bill,

Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Bernd,

 

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

 

<image.png>

I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

 

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

 

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):

<image.png>

You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse

720 Winnie St

Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Image removed by sender.

 

 

On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :

Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

 

Image removed by sender.

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Bow Thruster Service

 

Matt,

This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Good to know

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Mat,

It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat.  "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Bernd,

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):
<image.png>
You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Bow Thruster Service

Matt Salatino
 

Good to know

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Mat,

It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat.  "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Bernd,

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):
<image.png>
You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com