Date   

Re: Bow Thruster Service

Matt Salatino
 

Thanks,
What a relief!

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 12:20 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Matt,

This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Good to know

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Mat,

It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat.  "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Bernd,

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):
<image.png>
You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Bow Thruster Service

 

Ruedi,

This thread was started by an owner of a Santorin. The Santorin and Super Maramu Bow Thrusters are very similar and made by Amel. The Bow Thruster on the 54 and 55 are very different and made by SidePower. The 50 Bow Thruster is smaller than the 54 and probably from SidePower, but I do not know for sure.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 3:21 PM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:
Hi Bill

only on SN & SM? ...not on A-54? Different as well I guess? 
Haven't serviced BT on my 54 yet. 

Best regards
 Ruedi
WASABI A-54-#55


On 28 Aug 2019, at 21:20, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Matt,

This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Good to know

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Mat,

It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat.  "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Bernd,

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):
<image.png>
You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Bow Thruster Service

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi Bill

only on SN & SM? ...not on A-54? Different as well I guess? 
Haven't serviced BT on my 54 yet. 

Best regards
 Ruedi
WASABI A-54-#55


On 28 Aug 2019, at 21:20, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Matt,

This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Good to know

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Mat,

It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat.  "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Bernd,

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):
<image.png>
You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Bow Thruster Service

James Alton
 

Bill is right about being careful in heating grp.  Grp can delaminate/crack and thereby destroying the strength of the material if too much heat is applied.  I used to build GRP stack sampling equipment that could barely handle 350F..not much.

James
SV Sueno
Budva,  Montenegro 



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Date: 8/28/19 7:21 PM (GMT+01:00)
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow Thruster Service

Bernd,

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

image.png
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):
image.png
You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Bow Thruster Service

Mike Ondra
 

Here’s another twist on bow thruster service.

We services ours yesterday, on the hard, so no extra complications from doing it in the water. Last service less than a year ago was in the water, and we were not confident that the reinstall was completely waterproof. Indeed, it was not, and we had our share of oil and cream.

Anyway after removing the 4 bolts that hold the GRP shaft, the motor housing spun freely on the GRP, but the thruster would not drop. We surmised that the splined connection between the motor shaft and thruster drive shaft had seized. No amount of tugging from below would move it. Ultimately we lowered the bow thruster and from below lifted it a few inches and “bumped” it with a short drop, well maybe a little bit more than a short drop to get results.

Anyway, the lesson is to lubricate the splined connection when reassembling the bow thruster to prevent seizing. We used Molykote.

Mike & Tom

ALETES SM#240

Chesapeake Bay

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2019 2:53 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow Thruster Service

 

Good to know

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Mat,

 

It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat.  "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse

720 Winnie St

Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Image removed by sender.

 

 

On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Bill,

Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Bernd,

 

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

 

<image.png>

I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

 

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

 

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):

<image.png>

You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse

720 Winnie St

Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

Image removed by sender.

 

 

On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :

Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

 

Image removed by sender.

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Bow Thruster Service

 

Matt,

This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Good to know

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Mat,

It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat.  "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Bernd,

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):
<image.png>
You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Bow Thruster Service

Matt Salatino
 

Good to know

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Mat,

It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat.  "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Bernd,

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):
<image.png>
You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Bow Thruster Service

 

Mat,

It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat.  "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Bernd,

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):
<image.png>
You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Bow Thruster Service

Matt Salatino
 

Bill,
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Bernd,

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

<image.png>
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):
<image.png>
You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


In Martinique looking at Amels

Darren And Kel
 

We are in Martinique with a possible deal pending and looking at Amels.  If anyone is considering any boats here, and would like some info, we would be happy to pass it along. 

Kelly and Darren

ISPA YachtMaster Instructor Evaluator
ISPA YachtMaster Instructor. 


Re: Bow Thruster Service

 

Bernd,

You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. 

The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron.

image.png
I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged.

In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base.

This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr):
image.png
You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Bow Thruster Service

Matt Salatino
 

A little heat?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Bow Thruster Service

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

Hi !

I had the  same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless  ...

I needed 2 days ...

good luck

JLM

CottonBay


Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much

Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a écrit :
Hello,
I wanted to change the seal on the bow thruster today.
Unforunately after removing the 4 screws I could not get the shaft disconnected. It’s badly rusted all over. Any ideas how I can loosen it?? Already used some wd40 & caramba to get it loose.... no success 
Pics attached
Best regards, 
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Replacing all my head/clew/tack lashings - suggestions?

 

Scott,

I believe that will work fine. Amel used "sail bolt" line. I am not sure why, but it was probably a decision of the sail subcontractor. 

As far as I know, Amel chose to never use metal shackles. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Yacht Owners School - www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Wed, Aug 28, 2019, 7:59 AM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
What are you all using to lash your sail heads/foots/clews?

The previous owner put a stainless shackle on the Genoa swivel and then attached the head to that. Of course, stainless + aluminum resulted in damage to the swivel enough that even though I tried to smooth it out, it caused the replacement lashing line to chafe right though in about a year. I only caught it recently when we took down the sails to have them refreshed - another few hundred miles and the Genoa would have taken a swim!

Rather than risk this happening again, I am replacing all my lashing lines. What do you guys use? I am considering 6mm double braid dyneema with a breaking strength similar to the recommended Genoa halyard. I'll be looping it a few times between the head and the swivel.

The other option is a soft shackle, which is what is used on the Genoa foot (included with the Bamar EFJ-1 furler).

Strength is important but I really want to oversize, at least the Genoa head swivel connection, to maximize longevity against abrasion. I'm actually going to add an additional, longer independent lashing so that if the primary lashing fails, the Genoa will sag, but not drop in the ocean. An alarm system, if you will.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Replacing all my head/clew/tack lashings - suggestions?

Scott SV Tengah
 

What are you all using to lash your sail heads/foots/clews?

The previous owner put a stainless shackle on the Genoa swivel and then attached the head to that. Of course, stainless + aluminum resulted in damage to the swivel enough that even though I tried to smooth it out, it caused the replacement lashing line to chafe right though in about a year. I only caught it recently when we took down the sails to have them refreshed - another few hundred miles and the Genoa would have taken a swim!

Rather than risk this happening again, I am replacing all my lashing lines. What do you guys use? I am considering 6mm double braid dyneema with a breaking strength similar to the recommended Genoa halyard. I'll be looping it a few times between the head and the swivel.

The other option is a soft shackle, which is what is used on the Genoa foot (included with the Bamar EFJ-1 furler).

Strength is important but I really want to oversize, at least the Genoa head swivel connection, to maximize longevity against abrasion. I'm actually going to add an additional, longer independent lashing so that if the primary lashing fails, the Genoa will sag, but not drop in the ocean. An alarm system, if you will.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Engine Battery cable to starter motor to be replaced - looking for experience

Mark McGovern
 

Dominique,

I agree with what most of the others have said here.  It is highly unlikely that the cable itself is the problem.  It is way more likely to be a loose, corroded, or damaged termination on either the +12V or -12V cables going from the starting battery to the starter motor on your engine.  Check, clean, repair, re-install and apply Corrosion X (or your favorite corrosion inhibitor) on each termination on both + and - cables. 

Given that you say the starter battery is new, you should also check the voltage output on the 12V alternators on both the Yanmar and the Generator to make sure that they are working properly.  You should also check and clean all the terminations on the cables going from the alternators to the starter battery.

Last, get yourself a cheap battery tester like this one or similar:  https://www.amazon.com/BA7-100-1200-Electronic-Battery-System/dp/B0015PI7A4/ref=asc_df_B0015PI7A4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312280085431&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4260724397295291035&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007796&hvtargid=pla-499796143917&psc=1

Please let us know what you find and how you resolved the issue.  Good luck!
   
--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: start stop engine

rossirossix4
 

Anybody have the diode part number and a US source for the diodes?  Seems like they are a popular enough problem with the Yanmar to merit carrying a spare.
Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI is on the hard in Varadero, Aruba we are in Crested Butte, CO 

Varadero has a 7' + low tide channel to the marina.  Use a hydraulic trailer lift for about $350USD with diver.  One of the best lifts we've ever had with our SM or our SN.   https://photos.app.goo.gl/2c1ZrAKD2gXcY7iQ6


Re: start stop engine

Gerhard Mueller
 

Altogether there are 15 diodes.


--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: AMEL HAS AN OFFICE IN HUNTINGTON NY

Matt Salatino
 

We were in La Rochelle, looking at our boat being built (#27), in July. We spoke with the marketing director:
Amel sailed it across a few months ago.
They kept it in Mamaroneck, NY.
They plan to show at both Newport, and Annapolis.
Then the plan is to sell the boat.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 26, 2019, at 7:45 PM, John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:

Wow cool.  Is Amel going to set up a US based service center?

On Thu, Aug 22, 2019, 3:00 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

I went by the office as I heard there was a 50 in the harbor across from my boat.

The 50 was returned to the main office and is now back in Huntington.

I am going to take a look at it Saturday. If anyone is nearby and would like to see it  is here.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 


Re: AMEL HAS AN OFFICE IN HUNTINGTON NY

John Clark
 

Wow cool.  Is Amel going to set up a US based service center?


On Thu, Aug 22, 2019, 3:00 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

I went by the office as I heard there was a 50 in the harbor across from my boat.

The 50 was returned to the main office and is now back in Huntington.

I am going to take a look at it Saturday. If anyone is nearby and would like to see it  is here.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376