Date   

Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

 

Barry,

Alcohol is a common disinfectant. The biggest issue is access to the 3 compartments in the SM and 54, especially if the SM or 54 has Salon Dining Seat Refrigeration.
 
Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 2:38 PM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,
I was told to clean out the tank from the opening on top. After doing a clean with a sponge then I also have used Vodka, have about 100 liters of  water then pour in 4 liters of Vodka, let it sit for a few hours and then fill with fresh water. 
Has anybody else used Vodka?

Best
Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Sicily


On Jul 3, 2019, at 19:49, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Stefan,

I remember my first years on BeBe. I seemed to do many things the hard way and some things the wrong way. It was a difficult and sometimes costly learning period. I am sure that everyone will join me in wishing you well with your 54.

To gain access to all 3 inspection ports on your A-54 is a very difficult task. Especially removing underseat refrigerator/freezer that I believe I see in the photo.

The three inspection ports for the 3 sections of the tank are:
Under the forward-facing refrigerator
Under the underseat refrigerator/freezer
Under the floor in the galley (shown in photo below).
image.png
If I were you, I would chemically clean/disinfect the freshwater tank via one of the ports...the easy one...the one under the floor.
1. To the freshwater water tank, add 2 liters of "household bleach" which is typically either 5.25 percent (“regular strength”) Chlorine
2. Fill the water tank with freshwater.
3. Allow the tank water with Chlorine to stand for 24-72 hours
4. Pump all of the water out of the freshwater tank using a submersible water pump through the middle inspection port.
5. Fill and pump-out 2 more times.
6. The appearance of the center patrician will mirror the other two.
<image.png>

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 


On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>


Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Bill,

Woud that amount of flushing be suficient to get the chorine levels down enough to prevent damage to the water maker membranes when back flushing with tank water?. I have read that a miniscule ppm can destroy them. I know we have a carbon filter between the water tank and the watermaker pump but I dont trust it. Accordingly I have put nothing but water maker water in my tanks for many years. I removed the freezer last year and did a full top to bottom scrub of the inside of the tank.

Regards

Danny

On 04 July 2019 at 05:49 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Stefan,

I remember my first years on BeBe. I seemed to do many things the hard way and some things the wrong way. It was a difficult and sometimes costly learning period. I am sure that everyone will join me in wishing you well with your 54.

To gain access to all 3 inspection ports on your A-54 is a very difficult task. Especially removing underseat refrigerator/freezer that I believe I see in the photo.

The three inspection ports for the 3 sections of the tank are:
Under the forward-facing refrigerator
Under the underseat refrigerator/freezer
Under the floor in the galley (shown in photo below).
image.png
If I were you, I would chemically clean/disinfect the freshwater tank via one of the ports...the easy one...the one under the floor.
1. To the freshwater water tank, add 2 liters of "household bleach" which is typically either 5.25 percent (“regular strength”) Chlorine
2. Fill the water tank with freshwater.
3. Allow the tank water with Chlorine to stand for 24-72 hours
4. Pump all of the water out of the freshwater tank using a submersible water pump through the middle inspection port.
5. Fill and pump-out 2 more times.
6. The appearance of the center patrician will mirror the other two.
image.png

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 

 

On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert < mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>

 

 


Re: Poor Anchor Chain Maintenance

karkauai
 

James, I am sure that we aren’t the only two to have experienced this debacle.  I am going to pass my nickname “Rusty” on to you officially until the next person admits to dealing with the same problem.

I recommend cutting the floor out of the bow locker to access the chain locker.  Everyone will eventually need to do this anyway and it will make removing the ball of rusty chain a 1/2 day job, and allow access for yearly cleaning.

When you think it’s time to turn the chain end for end, my advice is to have it re-galvanized.

Kent
Kristy
SM243

On Jul 3, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Chuck_Kim_Joy <clacey9@...> wrote:

Great suggestions. One more. We anchored all over the Caribbean this season. Sometimes as long as 10 days in one spot. In Prickly bay Grenada we saw the worst fouling of chain. 2 inch thick growth on about 60 feet of chain. The worst smelling goup you've ever encountered. We we're 12 days in one spot. We could do nothing but sail with it to Trinidad and remove all chain power wash and disinfect the chain locker. It will never be the same neither will we. 
All the best 
Chuck 
Joy #388
Trinidad 

On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 1:10 PM Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi James:  

WOW!! If anyone needed additional impetus to take care of their chain (in addition to Kent on Kristi's story), you have provided it.  

May I make a couple of additional suggestions that have stood me in good stead for the last 18 years of my SM ownership (80% in Caribbean waters):
1.  Convert the anchor wash down system to fresh water.
2.  Install a fresh water deck wash down fitting (T'ed off with a valve from the anchor wash down line in the port forward locker).  Every time you wash down the deck, direct some fresh water down the hawse pipe to douse the "pile" with some fresh water. 
3.  Make sure to plug the hawse pipe when sailing to prevent salt water flooding in there. 
4.  Pay out all the chain when going on the hard or at least twice per year.

Thanks for sharing, and "motivating" us to be careful with this. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver, M.D.
s/v Liahona 
Amel SM 2000 Hull #335
Puerto Del Rey  Marina, Puerto Rico


Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

Paul Brown
 

Yes, but only with fresh orange juice and lots of ice, I wake up and my tank remains an issue 

Paul 


On 3 Jul 2019, at 8:38 pm, Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry@...> wrote:

Hi Bill,
I was told to clean out the tank from the opening on top. After doing a clean with a sponge then I also have used Vodka, have about 100 liters of  water then pour in 4 liters of Vodka, let it sit for a few hours and then fill with fresh water. 
Has anybody else used Vodka?

Best
Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Sicily


On Jul 3, 2019, at 19:49, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Stefan,

I remember my first years on BeBe. I seemed to do many things the hard way and some things the wrong way. It was a difficult and sometimes costly learning period. I am sure that everyone will join me in wishing you well with your 54.

To gain access to all 3 inspection ports on your A-54 is a very difficult task. Especially removing underseat refrigerator/freezer that I believe I see in the photo.

The three inspection ports for the 3 sections of the tank are:
Under the forward-facing refrigerator
Under the underseat refrigerator/freezer
Under the floor in the galley (shown in photo below).
image.png
If I were you, I would chemically clean/disinfect the freshwater tank via one of the ports...the easy one...the one under the floor.
1. To the freshwater water tank, add 2 liters of "household bleach" which is typically either 5.25 percent (“regular strength”) Chlorine
2. Fill the water tank with freshwater.
3. Allow the tank water with Chlorine to stand for 24-72 hours
4. Pump all of the water out of the freshwater tank using a submersible water pump through the middle inspection port.
5. Fill and pump-out 2 more times.
6. The appearance of the center patrician will mirror the other two.
<image.png>

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 


On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>


Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

karkauai
 

I tried power washing, vinegar, and  peroxide...all to no avail.

On Kristy, two liters of bleach didn’t touch it.  I used  4 gallons and left it overnight for ~15 hours...it killed everything.  Be sure you top the tanks up until the water is touching the top of the tanks to kill what ever is lurking there.

I am looking into an ozone solution to keep the tanks fresh.  I’ll report when I’ve had it installed for a while.

Kent & Iris
Kristy
SM243

On Jul 3, 2019, at 1:49 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Stefan,

I remember my first years on BeBe. I seemed to do many things the hard way and some things the wrong way. It was a difficult and sometimes costly learning period. I am sure that everyone will join me in wishing you well with your 54.

To gain access to all 3 inspection ports on your A-54 is a very difficult task. Especially removing underseat refrigerator/freezer that I believe I see in the photo.

The three inspection ports for the 3 sections of the tank are:
Under the forward-facing refrigerator
Under the underseat refrigerator/freezer
Under the floor in the galley (shown in photo below).
<image.png>
If I were you, I would chemically clean/disinfect the freshwater tank via one of the ports...the easy one...the one under the floor.
1. To the freshwater water tank, add 2 liters of "household bleach" which is typically either 5.25 percent (“regular strength”) Chlorine
2. Fill the water tank with freshwater.
3. Allow the tank water with Chlorine to stand for 24-72 hours
4. Pump all of the water out of the freshwater tank using a submersible water pump through the middle inspection port.
5. Fill and pump-out 2 more times.
6. The appearance of the center patrician will mirror the other two.
<image.png>

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 


On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>


Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

Barry Connor
 

Hi Bill,
I was told to clean out the tank from the opening on top. After doing a clean with a sponge then I also have used Vodka, have about 100 liters of  water then pour in 4 liters of Vodka, let it sit for a few hours and then fill with fresh water. 
Has anybody else used Vodka?

Best
Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Sicily


On Jul 3, 2019, at 19:49, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Stefan,

I remember my first years on BeBe. I seemed to do many things the hard way and some things the wrong way. It was a difficult and sometimes costly learning period. I am sure that everyone will join me in wishing you well with your 54.

To gain access to all 3 inspection ports on your A-54 is a very difficult task. Especially removing underseat refrigerator/freezer that I believe I see in the photo.

The three inspection ports for the 3 sections of the tank are:
Under the forward-facing refrigerator
Under the underseat refrigerator/freezer
Under the floor in the galley (shown in photo below).
image.png
If I were you, I would chemically clean/disinfect the freshwater tank via one of the ports...the easy one...the one under the floor.
1. To the freshwater water tank, add 2 liters of "household bleach" which is typically either 5.25 percent (“regular strength”) Chlorine
2. Fill the water tank with freshwater.
3. Allow the tank water with Chlorine to stand for 24-72 hours
4. Pump all of the water out of the freshwater tank using a submersible water pump through the middle inspection port.
5. Fill and pump-out 2 more times.
6. The appearance of the center patrician will mirror the other two.
<image.png>

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 


On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>


Re: Mastervolt alternator overcharging

Paul Brown
 

+31 20 342 21 32 this gets you to reception the lady if you ask kindly should transfer you if he has time, his name is Michelle I believe,

Some times he has to call you back

I had issues last week when my MV alternator whodunnit not connect to the MasterBus and traced it to a corroded connection, can happen had the start of the season it appears 

All the best


On 3 Jul 2019, at 7:39 pm, Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313@...> wrote:

Thanks Paul.  Do you have a phone number?  


Re: Mastervolt alternator overcharging

Joerg Esdorn
 

Thanks Paul.  Do you have a phone number?  


Re: Mastervolt alternator overcharging

Joerg Esdorn
 

Thanks Bill.  Great minds think alike.  My next to do was to reprogram the regulator!  Temporary fix only but I agree that there must be a loose connection somewhere.  I will also call Mastervolt.  


Re: Mastervolt alternator overcharging

Paul Brown
 

Hi Joerg, I have call mastervolt head office and spoke with Michele a technician who is generally very helpful for information, he is on leave until the 8th of July I believe, this is one option 

Regards Paul 


On 3 Jul 2019, at 6:25 pm, Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313@...> wrote:

On my 55, I have a 110A/24v Mastervolt alternator for the house bank and the alpha pro regulator.  I’ve had the battery temp alarm come on several times now because the regulator does not switch from Bulk to absorption.  On my voltmeter on the panel, voltage is 30-31V and charge rate goes up and down quickly from 10-40A, all with the batteries full after days on shore charger.   I checked out the regulator with the Masteradjust software and the sense and battery voltage was just below the 28.5V for the switch to absorption.   So the regulator is seeing 2-2.5V less than what the batteries have - I checked the voltmeter with my multitester.   At the suggestion of Pochon, I just replaced the regulator but that wasn’t the problem. 
Any idea what could be wrong would be much app!   

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem
just left Barcelona for Valencia


Re: Mastervolt alternator overcharging

 

Joerg,

That's what I thought when you first started having overheat alarms in your 55 battery area. The Mastervolt alternator is continuing to charge, already charged batteries, causing heat in the battery area. Pochon's suggestion to change the regulator is logical, but I am surprised that they did not check the voltage at the bank and at the regulator to ensure that they were the same.

I am not an electrician: My guess is that either the regulator settings are wrong, the regulator is defective, or there is resistance in the wire and connections between the actual battery bank and the regulator, which is lowering the voltage "seen" by the regulator and "fooling" the regulator to continue charging. 

My non-electrician suggestion: It will be a tedious process checking between both. I believe that you will find the most likely connections near and on the excite relay for the alternator. loosen each connection and use CorrosionX before retightening. Make sure that any crimp connectors are done correctly and have crimped the entire wire, replace any suspects. Check voltage often during the process so that you'll know when you have found and corrected the resistance problem.

As an alternative and temporary patch, maybe you could lower the charged voltage setting at the regulator by 2.5 volts.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 12:25 PM Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
On my 55, I have a 110A/24v Mastervolt alternator for the house bank and the alpha pro regulator.  I’ve had the battery temp alarm come on several times now because the regulator does not switch from Bulk to absorption.  On my voltmeter on the panel, voltage is 30-31V and charge rate goes up and down quickly from 10-40A, all with the batteries full after days on shore charger.   I checked out the regulator with the Masteradjust software and the sense and battery voltage was just below the 28.5V for the switch to absorption.   So the regulator is seeing 2-2.5V less than what the batteries have - I checked the voltmeter with my multitester.   At the suggestion of Pochon, I just replaced the regulator but that wasn’t the problem. 
Any idea what could be wrong would be much app!   

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem
just left Barcelona for Valencia


Re: Poor Anchor Chain Maintenance

Chuck_Kim_Joy
 

Great suggestions. One more. We anchored all over the Caribbean this season. Sometimes as long as 10 days in one spot. In Prickly bay Grenada we saw the worst fouling of chain. 2 inch thick growth on about 60 feet of chain. The worst smelling goup you've ever encountered. We we're 12 days in one spot. We could do nothing but sail with it to Trinidad and remove all chain power wash and disinfect the chain locker. It will never be the same neither will we. 
All the best 
Chuck 
Joy #388
Trinidad 

On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 1:10 PM Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi James:  

WOW!! If anyone needed additional impetus to take care of their chain (in addition to Kent on Kristi's story), you have provided it.  

May I make a couple of additional suggestions that have stood me in good stead for the last 18 years of my SM ownership (80% in Caribbean waters):
1.  Convert the anchor wash down system to fresh water.
2.  Install a fresh water deck wash down fitting (T'ed off with a valve from the anchor wash down line in the port forward locker).  Every time you wash down the deck, direct some fresh water down the hawse pipe to douse the "pile" with some fresh water. 
3.  Make sure to plug the hawse pipe when sailing to prevent salt water flooding in there. 
4.  Pay out all the chain when going on the hard or at least twice per year.

Thanks for sharing, and "motivating" us to be careful with this. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver, M.D.
s/v Liahona 
Amel SM 2000 Hull #335
Puerto Del Rey  Marina, Puerto Rico


Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

 

Stefan,

I remember my first years on BeBe. I seemed to do many things the hard way and some things the wrong way. It was a difficult and sometimes costly learning period. I am sure that everyone will join me in wishing you well with your 54.

To gain access to all 3 inspection ports on your A-54 is a very difficult task. Especially removing underseat refrigerator/freezer that I believe I see in the photo.

The three inspection ports for the 3 sections of the tank are:
Under the forward-facing refrigerator
Under the underseat refrigerator/freezer
Under the floor in the galley (shown in photo below).
image.png
If I were you, I would chemically clean/disinfect the freshwater tank via one of the ports...the easy one...the one under the floor.
1. To the freshwater water tank, add 2 liters of "household bleach" which is typically either 5.25 percent (“regular strength”) Chlorine
2. Fill the water tank with freshwater.
3. Allow the tank water with Chlorine to stand for 24-72 hours
4. Pump all of the water out of the freshwater tank using a submersible water pump through the middle inspection port.
5. Fill and pump-out 2 more times.
6. The appearance of the center patrician will mirror the other two.
image.png

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 


On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>


Mastervolt alternator overcharging

Joerg Esdorn
 

On my 55, I have a 110A/24v Mastervolt alternator for the house bank and the alpha pro regulator.  I’ve had the battery temp alarm come on several times now because the regulator does not switch from Bulk to absorption.  On my voltmeter on the panel, voltage is 30-31V and charge rate goes up and down quickly from 10-40A, all with the batteries full after days on shore charger.   I checked out the regulator with the Masteradjust software and the sense and battery voltage was just below the 28.5V for the switch to absorption.   So the regulator is seeing 2-2.5V less than what the batteries have - I checked the voltmeter with my multitester.   At the suggestion of Pochon, I just replaced the regulator but that wasn’t the problem. 
Any idea what could be wrong would be much app!   

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem
just left Barcelona for Valencia


Re: Poor Anchor Chain Maintenance

Gary Silver
 

Hi James:  

WOW!! If anyone needed additional impetus to take care of their chain (in addition to Kent on Kristi's story), you have provided it.  

May I make a couple of additional suggestions that have stood me in good stead for the last 18 years of my SM ownership (80% in Caribbean waters):
1.  Convert the anchor wash down system to fresh water.
2.  Install a fresh water deck wash down fitting (T'ed off with a valve from the anchor wash down line in the port forward locker).  Every time you wash down the deck, direct some fresh water down the hawse pipe to douse the "pile" with some fresh water. 
3.  Make sure to plug the hawse pipe when sailing to prevent salt water flooding in there. 
4.  Pay out all the chain when going on the hard or at least twice per year.

Thanks for sharing, and "motivating" us to be careful with this. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver, M.D.
s/v Liahona 
Amel SM 2000 Hull #335
Puerto Del Rey  Marina, Puerto Rico


Poor Anchor Chain Maintenance

James Sterling
 

Do yourself a favor and properly maintain your chain.  While I've been working on various other refits in the last couple of years we've anchored in fairly shallow waters and not used much of our chain.  We had never pulled it completely out since purchase 3 years ago.  When I finally got down to chain replacement on my list I found myself in a nightmare.  After pulling a good part out, everything stopped.  Closer inspection revealed terribly rusted chain that was kinked and wouldn't come out.  I hammered on links for 2 weeks removing a few feet at a time and then realized the remainder was balled up into what I can only describe as a dragons egg.  Welded together by rust.  I tried everything.  Finally I resorted to soaking it all in 10 gallons of white vinigar with salt for 3 days.  Some progress was made but not enough to get it out.  It was wedged tightly in the locker and would not lift out.  I thought about it a day or two and got creative.  I ran a hook snubber line up thorugh the hawsepipe from the anchor locker and attached it to the primary halyard.  I winched with what I estimate was about 300lbs of force and the whole mess broke free.  At that point, I had to look at it kind of like a diamond cutter as to which link to cut to start making headway.   Then I went to work with a battery powered angle grinder, cutting a section at a time and pulling bits of the mess out through locker access to the forward compartment into a bucket.  This took a lot of time and taught me to take care of the chain.  New chain was eventually marked and installed.  It will come out yearly to reverse and maintain.  Take care of your chain.


Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

Barry Connor
 

Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 


On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>


AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

Stefan Schaufert
 

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE



Re: Masse - and Masse + lights

Barry Connor
 

Thank’s Bill and Mohammed,
I spoke to Nicholas at Dessalator who confirmed they have it. Trouble I have is doing a bank transfer from the boat, bank need to text me before doing transfer and I can’t get that to work from US Bank to UK cell phone.
I found “Advance Yacht Systems” in UK who have the part and actually get it from Dessalator. Easy payment with them (PayPal and Credit Card) and as I have crew joining from UK next week can ship to them to carry here.
Thank’s again for your help. Could not imagine having to use the small button on the side of the solenoid for too long. Nice though to have that as a backup. Also when the solenoid coil burnt it blew one of the control board fuses. I assume that is a protection to not burn up the control board.
Best Regards

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,  Sicily
For the next week.


On Jul 3, 2019, at 16:03, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Email contact"at"dessalator.com. They have it and can ship. There are different models. Include a photo. 
On Wed, Jul 3, 2019, 1:35 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,
Another query on solenoids.
I hope that you or another member might know options where I could get a good water solenoid on the back of the control panel for the Dessalotor 230v water maker.
This solenoid stropped working so I used the button on the side of this solenoid to get the good water flowing into the tank.
I am in Sicily and would like to know if this solenoid can be bought from a supplier who I could arrange shipping with.
Would appreciate any advise.

Best

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse, Sicily


On Jul 2, 2019, at 14:24, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Ruedi,

In your situation, I would look at the 24 volt solenoid switch for the 24 volt motor as being the most likely problem. I have noticed significant corrosion on these solenoid switches. 

If you disconnect only the wires from the motor and still have the light while the yellow/green bonding wire is connected, you have probably found a solenoid that needs replacing. 

Also, remember that saltwater is a good conductor of electricity. If saltwater is common between devices, all devices are "electrically connected."

I hope this helps you. Good luck. 

Bill Rouse

On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 4:54 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group Friends

 

I’m asking you guys if someone had the same or similar experience and what is your advice for my question:

 

I have a Negative Leak light on the 24V Pump-Motor of the Dessalator Duo. There is a Bonding wire (yellow/green) that runs from the Bonding strap in the grey-water sink to the Dessalator. But this wire is disconnected on the Dessalator unit. When I’m connecting the 24v pump directly to the bonding system the negative leak remains. Light is still on. 

 

The light does only switching OFF when I’m switching the pump on, or if I’m disconnecting the negative wire. 

BTW:  I cannot see any corrosion on the Dessalator unit. The DC motor itself has no contact to saltwater, - it's only the pressure pump in contact with saltwater (but no 24V connection).

 

- Does it mean I need a new 24V DC Motor? 

- Are there any longterm experiences what can happen if a negative (or positive) light is not fixed? 

- What is the affect and result of a longterm neg. vs pos. leak?

 

It’s very easy to get miliAmps of current on a 24V motor with brushes and wires, etc. Are we AMELies to paranoid with these lights?

 

Best regards

Ruedi

P.S. I still not fully understand how these lights working. To my understanding it is indication a leak from Masse - and Masse + against the AMEL bonding system. Maybe I’m wrong?


Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Mittwoch, 20. Februar 2019 um 14:21
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Masse - and Masse + lights

T
In the circumstance you describe, the light indicates that there is a connection (resistance) between either the positive or negative and the case of the macerator pump. That "connection" is usually saltwater leaking past the seal on the pump. It is an "early warning system" that your seal is leaking and your pump will fail. A switch such as you suggest will certainly be a "see no evil" solution.🙈😀 You could accomplish the same by disconnection the yellow/green wire from the case, but, don't you really want to know when you have a seal leak.
 
Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Tue, Feb 19, 2019 at 8:25 PM <derickgates@...> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]

I have been diligently checking the Masse- and + lights in the companionway. Over the past 5 years when one of the lights go on (usually the Masse - ) I go and disconnect the power lines to the forward or aft head and sure enough, the leak of current to ground stops and I replace that Jabsco pump. Recently the Masse light did not go out until I had unplugged both the heads at the same time, indicating to me that both the head pumps were leaking to ground.

It occurs to me that instead of replacing the pump, I could just install a toggle switch to the offending brown or blue wire, so that I can turn the circuit on when anyone uses the head, and turn it off in the interim.  Then I could continue to use the offending pump until it dies a natural death.

Am I fooling myself or would installing that switch stop the current leakage to the Amel bonding system?

Derick Gates
SM2K #400 Brava



Re: Masse - and Masse + lights

 

Email contact"at"dessalator.com. They have it and can ship. There are different models. Include a photo. 

On Wed, Jul 3, 2019, 1:35 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,
Another query on solenoids.
I hope that you or another member might know options where I could get a good water solenoid on the back of the control panel for the Dessalotor 230v water maker.
This solenoid stropped working so I used the button on the side of this solenoid to get the good water flowing into the tank.
I am in Sicily and would like to know if this solenoid can be bought from a supplier who I could arrange shipping with.
Would appreciate any advise.

Best

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse, Sicily


On Jul 2, 2019, at 14:24, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Ruedi,

In your situation, I would look at the 24 volt solenoid switch for the 24 volt motor as being the most likely problem. I have noticed significant corrosion on these solenoid switches. 

If you disconnect only the wires from the motor and still have the light while the yellow/green bonding wire is connected, you have probably found a solenoid that needs replacing. 

Also, remember that saltwater is a good conductor of electricity. If saltwater is common between devices, all devices are "electrically connected."

I hope this helps you. Good luck. 

Bill Rouse

On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 4:54 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group Friends

 

I’m asking you guys if someone had the same or similar experience and what is your advice for my question:

 

I have a Negative Leak light on the 24V Pump-Motor of the Dessalator Duo. There is a Bonding wire (yellow/green) that runs from the Bonding strap in the grey-water sink to the Dessalator. But this wire is disconnected on the Dessalator unit. When I’m connecting the 24v pump directly to the bonding system the negative leak remains. Light is still on. 

 

The light does only switching OFF when I’m switching the pump on, or if I’m disconnecting the negative wire. 

BTW:  I cannot see any corrosion on the Dessalator unit. The DC motor itself has no contact to saltwater, - it's only the pressure pump in contact with saltwater (but no 24V connection).

 

- Does it mean I need a new 24V DC Motor? 

- Are there any longterm experiences what can happen if a negative (or positive) light is not fixed? 

- What is the affect and result of a longterm neg. vs pos. leak?

 

It’s very easy to get miliAmps of current on a 24V motor with brushes and wires, etc. Are we AMELies to paranoid with these lights?

 

Best regards

Ruedi

P.S. I still not fully understand how these lights working. To my understanding it is indication a leak from Masse - and Masse + against the AMEL bonding system. Maybe I’m wrong?


Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Mittwoch, 20. Februar 2019 um 14:21
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Masse - and Masse + lights

T
In the circumstance you describe, the light indicates that there is a connection (resistance) between either the positive or negative and the case of the macerator pump. That "connection" is usually saltwater leaking past the seal on the pump. It is an "early warning system" that your seal is leaking and your pump will fail. A switch such as you suggest will certainly be a "see no evil" solution.🙈😀 You could accomplish the same by disconnection the yellow/green wire from the case, but, don't you really want to know when you have a seal leak.
 
Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Tue, Feb 19, 2019 at 8:25 PM <derickgates@...> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]

I have been diligently checking the Masse- and + lights in the companionway. Over the past 5 years when one of the lights go on (usually the Masse - ) I go and disconnect the power lines to the forward or aft head and sure enough, the leak of current to ground stops and I replace that Jabsco pump. Recently the Masse light did not go out until I had unplugged both the heads at the same time, indicating to me that both the head pumps were leaking to ground.

It occurs to me that instead of replacing the pump, I could just install a toggle switch to the offending brown or blue wire, so that I can turn the circuit on when anyone uses the head, and turn it off in the interim.  Then I could continue to use the offending pump until it dies a natural death.

Am I fooling myself or would installing that switch stop the current leakage to the Amel bonding system?

Derick Gates
SM2K #400 Brava