Date   

Anyone know who owns Triton?

Rob Hughes
 

I'm trying to find out who the owner of Triton is. the boats is here in Grenada. Where in the Same Marina and I have a few questions thanks.


Re: How to prime fresh water on an Amel 55, anyone?

 

Do yo add water?

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Sun, Sep 27, 2020, 9:03 PM Matt Salatino via groups.io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill, my fw pump isn’t self priming. It’s easy to prime, but needs help if the lines go empty.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Sep 27, 2020, at 9:57 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

The switch on the side of the Square D pressure switch is to turn ON the pump motor when circumstances prohibit the motor from turning on. I do not see who this will help in priming. The OEM pump on the 50 and 55 are self-priming. To prime turn, the pump ON at the DC panel and open the galley tap. It might take a few minutes.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Sep 27, 2020 at 6:14 PM Matt Salatino via groups.io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
If it’s anything like our 50, there is a lever on the pressure switch plumbed into the fresh water pump. Turn the breaker on, then lift the lever. The pump should start. This might or might not prime the system. If it does, fine. If not, put a hose from the dock into the hose outlet. We have one in the cockpit and by the bow locker for the anchor wash. This will pressurize the system. Then you’re back in business. As soon as the system is pressurized, remove the dock hose. Things should now work.
Don’t ask now I know this....:-)

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Sep 27, 2020, at 6:02 PM, Billy Newport <billy@...> wrote:

We turned off the fresh water pump from the DC panel and let a tap run which lowered the water pressure to 0 before doing some plumbing work today. I expected that when I turned back on the fresh water pump breaker, the pump would repressurize the circuit but turning on the breaker didn't do anything. The fresh water pump isn't starting.

How do I get the fresh water system going again? The Amel manual has very little if nothing about it or at least than I can find.

Any help apprec,
Billy

Amel 55#56


Re: generator pcb board

eric freedman
 

Bill,
Do you recall the mans first name? Was he from Holland? Sending a package to and from Colombia can cost over $200- A customs broker is also needed. If someone ships a board to me I will l include it in my next shipment the shipping costs will be nominal and the customs broker charge will be covered in my carnet. The board will also get to the repairman. It will be shipped to my office/apartment in Bogota.
Eric

On September 27, 2020 at 9:47 PM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Eric,

Great idea. I met a guy in Cartagena who did the same thing. 

Someone has got to have an old board that would send it to an address for you.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Sep 26, 2020 at 6:52 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
I have a friend in Bogota that repairs expensive circuit boards. Mostly for mining and the oil business.
I asked him how he gets the schematics. He replied with the cheap labor in Colombia ($1.00 an hour)
he just has his technicians test every component on the board.
I would love to send him a defective board and see what he can do with it.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376

On September 26, 2020 at 7:31 PM rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Just a related comment...seems these boards fail alot....my MDKAV has this expensive board as well.  There has been at least one posting claiming that heat "melts" these boards.  When I run the generator and (almost always make water at the same time) I leave the engine room open (we are always at anchor or mooring ball so the noise to others is minimal).  That extractor fan is pretty feeble and I think the Dessalator motor likes to be cool as well.  Might make a difference.  My engine room has a 220V outlet mounted up high on the forward bulkhead and I have a 220 fan that is aimed at the Dessalator high pressure pump and in the general vacinity of the battery chargers.  Since this fan works anytime we are on shorepower or when the generator is producing 220 it might help.  Maybe I need to point another one at the generator control board area.  These portable plastic fans are cheap and also help when you are working in the engine room--can be run off the inverter or on shore power in those situations.

To ramble on a little more....a while back I wrote Fight Systems, Inc. that makes more reasonably priced replacement control boards for Onans and asked them if they could offer a board for MDKAVs and received the following reply"
Hi Bob, 

Thank you for reaching out to us. We consider many factors where looking at possible aftermarket replacement projects. The engineering process takes 6-8 months and costs well over $30,000, so we have to be sure a market exists that will allow for us to recover expenses in a reasonable amount of time. There are several drawbacks to designing a replacement for the 327-1533, the first is the customer case that the board rests in. That case will require an up front tooling cost of about $15,000 if we were to commission a plastic injection mold. That would be in addition to the $30,000 engineering investment. Unfortunately, at this time I am not confident we would be able to recoup our investment within a one year period based on the number of generators In the market that use this control. I wish it were as simple as snapping my fingers and having a replacement available. 

Regards,

Anthony Misiti
COO
Flight Systems
Maybe we could entice them with a pre purchase of a hundred or more.....seems like carrying a spare control board is a good idea.  Their boards run in the $250 to $300 range.

Bob and Suzanne Rossi, KAIMI SM 429

 


 


Re: How to prime fresh water on an Amel 55, anyone?

Matt Salatino
 

Bill, my fw pump isn’t self priming. It’s easy to prime, but needs help if the lines go empty.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Sep 27, 2020, at 9:57 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

The switch on the side of the Square D pressure switch is to turn ON the pump motor when circumstances prohibit the motor from turning on. I do not see who this will help in priming. The OEM pump on the 50 and 55 are self-priming. To prime turn, the pump ON at the DC panel and open the galley tap. It might take a few minutes.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Sep 27, 2020 at 6:14 PM Matt Salatino via groups.io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
If it’s anything like our 50, there is a lever on the pressure switch plumbed into the fresh water pump. Turn the breaker on, then lift the lever. The pump should start. This might or might not prime the system. If it does, fine. If not, put a hose from the dock into the hose outlet. We have one in the cockpit and by the bow locker for the anchor wash. This will pressurize the system. Then you’re back in business. As soon as the system is pressurized, remove the dock hose. Things should now work.
Don’t ask now I know this....:-)

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Sep 27, 2020, at 6:02 PM, Billy Newport <billy@...> wrote:

We turned off the fresh water pump from the DC panel and let a tap run which lowered the water pressure to 0 before doing some plumbing work today. I expected that when I turned back on the fresh water pump breaker, the pump would repressurize the circuit but turning on the breaker didn't do anything. The fresh water pump isn't starting.

How do I get the fresh water system going again? The Amel manual has very little if nothing about it or at least than I can find.

Any help apprec,
Billy

Amel 55#56


Re: How to prime fresh water on an Amel 55, anyone?

 

Yes, but if the pump is running, there is no need to move the over-ride switch on the side of the Square D pressure switch.

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Sep 27, 2020 at 6:18 PM John Clanton <jclanton@...> wrote:

Billy,

 

On the output side of the pump (where the pipes come in and go out), there is a pressure switch which turns the pump on and off as the pressure dictates.  When the pressure goes down to zero, there is a safety function on the pressure switch which keeps it off.  I am not on the boat now and so cannot provide photos, but have experienced what you are talking about.

 

The pressure switch mechanism is a grey plastic box about 3” by 3” by 3”, and has the Square D (manufacturer) logo on the top.  On the right side, of the pressure switch mechanism, towards the base of it, is a small chrome/stainless steel round rod/lever that when pulled up, will manually start the pressure pump, and after a moment or two, it will maintain the pressure normally.

 

Specific instructions (from memory) are:

  • Be sure all the water taps are closed.
  • Turn the 24v water pump breaker on (you won’t see a light illuminated until the pump actually turns on).
  • Go down into the engine room and put your hand on the right side of the grey Square D pressure switch.  With a flashlight, you can probably look at the lower right side of the pressure switch and see the chrome lever.
  • Pull the lever up, it only needs to move a half inch or so, and the pump should engage.
  • On my boat, there is a pressure gauge on the top of the pump that shows the pressure in the freshwater circuit downstream of the pressure pump.
  • If you hold the lever up for 5 -10 seconds, the system should engage normally without you needing to keep holding the lever.

 

This is all that should be required to get the system back into “normal” mode.  Both the pump and the pressure switch are very reliable, and shouldn’t need to be adjusted or rebuilt for 10+ years.

 

That being said, anytime the system is drained/relieved of pressure, the manual lever will have to be engaged to get the pump re-engaged.

 

Best of luck.

 

 

John W. Clanton

S/V Devereux, A55, No. 65

Currently in Antibes, France

 

 



Disclaimer

The information contained in this communication from the sender is confidential. It is intended solely for use by the recipient and others authorized to receive it. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any review, retransmission, dissemination, distribution, copying or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon this information is strictly prohibited.


Re: How to prime fresh water on an Amel 55, anyone?

 

The switch on the side of the Square D pressure switch is to turn ON the pump motor when circumstances prohibit the motor from turning on. I do not see who this will help in priming. The OEM pump on the 50 and 55 are self-priming. To prime turn, the pump ON at the DC panel and open the galley tap. It might take a few minutes.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Sep 27, 2020 at 6:14 PM Matt Salatino via groups.io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
If it’s anything like our 50, there is a lever on the pressure switch plumbed into the fresh water pump. Turn the breaker on, then lift the lever. The pump should start. This might or might not prime the system. If it does, fine. If not, put a hose from the dock into the hose outlet. We have one in the cockpit and by the bow locker for the anchor wash. This will pressurize the system. Then you’re back in business. As soon as the system is pressurized, remove the dock hose. Things should now work.
Don’t ask now I know this....:-)

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Sep 27, 2020, at 6:02 PM, Billy Newport <billy@...> wrote:

We turned off the fresh water pump from the DC panel and let a tap run which lowered the water pressure to 0 before doing some plumbing work today. I expected that when I turned back on the fresh water pump breaker, the pump would repressurize the circuit but turning on the breaker didn't do anything. The fresh water pump isn't starting.

How do I get the fresh water system going again? The Amel manual has very little if nothing about it or at least than I can find.

Any help apprec,
Billy

Amel 55#56


Re: Volvo 24v alternator exciter

 

There is a relay that uses the start engine 12v circuit to close the other side of the relay which is supplied with 24 volts. That is how the "excite circuit" works for the 24-volt alternator on all model Amels that I am familiar with that have 24-volt banks and alternators. Here are a few photos:
image.png
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Sep 26, 2020 at 1:57 PM Mike Ondra via groups.io <mdondra=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:
24 V alternator recently requires higher RPM before producing voltage. Any suggestions about where to start troubleshooting? Exciter circuitry? Thanks!
Mike Ondra
Aletes SM240






Re: Ankerwinde Amel euros

Aquarius 136
 

Lieber Elja,

Vielen Dank für Nachricht, das macht mich um einiges schlauer. Große Hilfe!

Ich habe noch eine andere Euros Ankerwinsch Konstruktion geschickt bekommen und bei denen fällt die Kette in das Vorschiff compartment was unter den 2 Kästen liegt. Dann kann u.U. natürlich Wasser an der Ankerkette entlang bis zur Bilge fließen.

Die Lösung wie Du sie beschreibst mit Ball im abgeschlossenen Ankerkasten hört sich für mich ein wenig sicherer an.

Wenn Du mir davon noch ein oder zwei Fotos schicken könntest, wenn auch immer möglich, wäre es toll.

Viele Gruesse
Valentin


Re: generator pcb board

 

Eric,

Great idea. I met a guy in Cartagena who did the same thing. 

Someone has got to have an old board that would send it to an address for you.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Sep 26, 2020 at 6:52 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
I have a friend in Bogota that repairs expensive circuit boards. Mostly for mining and the oil business.
I asked him how he gets the schematics. He replied with the cheap labor in Colombia ($1.00 an hour)
he just has his technicians test every component on the board.
I would love to send him a defective board and see what he can do with it.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376

On September 26, 2020 at 7:31 PM rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Just a related comment...seems these boards fail alot....my MDKAV has this expensive board as well.  There has been at least one posting claiming that heat "melts" these boards.  When I run the generator and (almost always make water at the same time) I leave the engine room open (we are always at anchor or mooring ball so the noise to others is minimal).  That extractor fan is pretty feeble and I think the Dessalator motor likes to be cool as well.  Might make a difference.  My engine room has a 220V outlet mounted up high on the forward bulkhead and I have a 220 fan that is aimed at the Dessalator high pressure pump and in the general vacinity of the battery chargers.  Since this fan works anytime we are on shorepower or when the generator is producing 220 it might help.  Maybe I need to point another one at the generator control board area.  These portable plastic fans are cheap and also help when you are working in the engine room--can be run off the inverter or on shore power in those situations.

To ramble on a little more....a while back I wrote Fight Systems, Inc. that makes more reasonably priced replacement control boards for Onans and asked them if they could offer a board for MDKAVs and received the following reply"
Hi Bob, 

Thank you for reaching out to us. We consider many factors where looking at possible aftermarket replacement projects. The engineering process takes 6-8 months and costs well over $30,000, so we have to be sure a market exists that will allow for us to recover expenses in a reasonable amount of time. There are several drawbacks to designing a replacement for the 327-1533, the first is the customer case that the board rests in. That case will require an up front tooling cost of about $15,000 if we were to commission a plastic injection mold. That would be in addition to the $30,000 engineering investment. Unfortunately, at this time I am not confident we would be able to recoup our investment within a one year period based on the number of generators In the market that use this control. I wish it were as simple as snapping my fingers and having a replacement available. 

Regards,

Anthony Misiti
COO
Flight Systems
Maybe we could entice them with a pre purchase of a hundred or more.....seems like carrying a spare control board is a good idea.  Their boards run in the $250 to $300 range.

Bob and Suzanne Rossi, KAIMI SM 429

 


Re: How to prime fresh water on an Amel 55, anyone?

John Clanton
 

Billy,

 

On the output side of the pump (where the pipes come in and go out), there is a pressure switch which turns the pump on and off as the pressure dictates.  When the pressure goes down to zero, there is a safety function on the pressure switch which keeps it off.  I am not on the boat now and so cannot provide photos, but have experienced what you are talking about.

 

The pressure switch mechanism is a grey plastic box about 3” by 3” by 3”, and has the Square D (manufacturer) logo on the top.  On the right side, of the pressure switch mechanism, towards the base of it, is a small chrome/stainless steel round rod/lever that when pulled up, will manually start the pressure pump, and after a moment or two, it will maintain the pressure normally.

 

Specific instructions (from memory) are:

  • Be sure all the water taps are closed.
  • Turn the 24v water pump breaker on (you won’t see a light illuminated until the pump actually turns on).
  • Go down into the engine room and put your hand on the right side of the grey Square D pressure switch.  With a flashlight, you can probably look at the lower right side of the pressure switch and see the chrome lever.
  • Pull the lever up, it only needs to move a half inch or so, and the pump should engage.
  • On my boat, there is a pressure gauge on the top of the pump that shows the pressure in the freshwater circuit downstream of the pressure pump.
  • If you hold the lever up for 5 -10 seconds, the system should engage normally without you needing to keep holding the lever.

 

This is all that should be required to get the system back into “normal” mode.  Both the pump and the pressure switch are very reliable, and shouldn’t need to be adjusted or rebuilt for 10+ years.

 

That being said, anytime the system is drained/relieved of pressure, the manual lever will have to be engaged to get the pump re-engaged.

 

Best of luck.

 

 

John W. Clanton

S/V Devereux, A55, No. 65

Currently in Antibes, France

 

 



Disclaimer

The information contained in this communication from the sender is confidential. It is intended solely for use by the recipient and others authorized to receive it. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any review, retransmission, dissemination, distribution, copying or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon this information is strictly prohibited.


Re: How to prime fresh water on an Amel 55, anyone?

Matt Salatino
 

If it’s anything like our 50, there is a lever on the pressure switch plumbed into the fresh water pump. Turn the breaker on, then lift the lever. The pump should start. This might or might not prime the system. If it does, fine. If not, put a hose from the dock into the hose outlet. We have one in the cockpit and by the bow locker for the anchor wash. This will pressurize the system. Then you’re back in business. As soon as the system is pressurized, remove the dock hose. Things should now work.
Don’t ask now I know this....:-)

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Sep 27, 2020, at 6:02 PM, Billy Newport <billy@...> wrote:

We turned off the fresh water pump from the DC panel and let a tap run which lowered the water pressure to 0 before doing some plumbing work today. I expected that when I turned back on the fresh water pump breaker, the pump would repressurize the circuit but turning on the breaker didn't do anything. The fresh water pump isn't starting.

How do I get the fresh water system going again? The Amel manual has very little if nothing about it or at least than I can find.

Any help apprec,
Billy

Amel 55#56


Re: Forward looking Sonar - Amel 54 - Furuno NavNet Plotter Network

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello Stefan,

Just a note..

The Interphase sonar is stand alone and the screen is mounted on the cockpit side by the left arm of the helmsman.

I went to a different solution when I replaced the electronics on Eleuthera; I chose the Raymarine unit as it integrates totally with the rest of the system.  Our system works well but restricted to about 2.5 knots of speed.  The Interphase is also limited in speed but given that you only use the system in shallow or doubtful waters, most skippers will be going slowly anyway.

Good luck

Jean-Pierre Germain



On 28 Sep 2020, at 10:29, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amelians,

 

thanks to Ken (SV Aquarius) and Oliver (SV Nautica) and others we know there are good (stand alone or B&G) solutions for a forward looking sonar.

 

But do you know a possibility/ device which is able to use the Furuno NavNet (Radar) Plotter (yes, it is old, but working reliable) for showing the „pictures“? 

 

Thanks for your hints.

 

Best regards

Stefan

A54 #119 Lady Charlyette, currently/ still in Aruba



How to prime fresh water on an Amel 55, anyone?

Billy Newport
 

We turned off the fresh water pump from the DC panel and let a tap run which lowered the water pressure to 0 before doing some plumbing work today. I expected that when I turned back on the fresh water pump breaker, the pump would repressurize the circuit but turning on the breaker didn't do anything. The fresh water pump isn't starting.

How do I get the fresh water system going again? The Amel manual has very little if nothing about it or at least than I can find.

Any help apprec,
Billy

Amel 55#56


Forward looking Sonar - Amel 54 - Furuno NavNet Plotter Network

Stefan Schaufert
 

Dear Amelians,

 

thanks to Ken (SV Aquarius) and Oliver (SV Nautica) and others we know there are good (stand alone or B&G) solutions for a forward looking sonar.

 

But do you know a possibility/ device which is able to use the Furuno NavNet (Radar) Plotter (yes, it is old, but working reliable) for showing the „pictures“? 

 

Thanks for your hints.

 

Best regards

Stefan

A54 #119 Lady Charlyette, currently/ still in Aruba


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Scott SV Tengah
 

Oliver, that has not been my experience. Perhaps Victron makes bad internal cell-cell connections but I surmise it might have to do with my keeping the Amel configuration of 12v batteries paired up in serial to create 24v and paralleled to create the total AH. This is useful in case your starter battery dies and you need to borrow a 12v battery to start engine/genset. I opted to retain that redundancy.

To my knowledge, BMS systems do not typically balance between serial pairs of batteries. As such, I've had a few cases of meaningful imbalance in the last 2 years of operation. By meaningful, I mean high enough to cause a cell to go over the cutoff threshold and cause the BMS to tell the chargers to stop charging.

Note that these voltage imbalances didn't show up unless I charge to 90% SOC or greater, because of the shape of the lithium voltage curve.

I agree that active balancing doesn't seem to provide any benefit and is of questionable utility.  

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


repair of Onan circuit board

eric freedman
 

I spoke with my friend in Bogota and he would like to look at a defective board and give an estimate for its repair. Does anyone have a board that they would like me to send to him in Bogota for an estimate? Shipping to Colombia is expensive and many times FedEx and DHL packages are lost.  I ship to Colombia a few times a month by a much more secure method.

Fair Winds.
Eric

SM 376 Kimberlite


Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?

eric freedman
 

I forgot to mention that I used a Dremel tool with a cutting blade to remove a few thousands of an inch from the key that is on the shaft.
I removed metal from the sides and the top.
Eric

On September 26, 2020 at 8:10 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Try looking for a compound in a metal can called https://www.amazon.com/Never-Seez-NSBT-8-Regular-Anti-Seize-Compound/dp/B000KZCU26

I put it on the drive shaft of the outhaul twice a year. It takes 10 minutes. Just put a long grade 10 bolt in the bottom screw and tap it with a small sledge hammer. It comes out with 2 or 3 gentle taps.

Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 Kimberlite

On September 26, 2020 at 3:32 PM Ian Park <parkianj@...> wrote:

Well done Bill. Hadn’t thought of the real simple job of removing just the shaft. It’s on the schedule now. Thank you!

Feel a bit like Homer! Doooh!!

 

 

 


Re: New gearboxes - painted or bare alloy?

eric freedman
 

Try looking for a compound in a metal can called https://www.amazon.com/Never-Seez-NSBT-8-Regular-Anti-Seize-Compound/dp/B000KZCU26

I put it on the drive shaft of the outhaul twice a year. It takes 10 minutes. Just put a long grade 10 bolt in the bottom screw and tap it with a small sledge hammer. It comes out with 2 or 3 gentle taps.

Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 Kimberlite

On September 26, 2020 at 3:32 PM Ian Park <parkianj@...> wrote:

Well done Bill. Hadn’t thought of the real simple job of removing just the shaft. It’s on the schedule now. Thank you!

Feel a bit like Homer! Doooh!!

 


Re: generator pcb board

eric freedman
 

I have a friend in Bogota that repairs expensive circuit boards. Mostly for mining and the oil business.
I asked him how he gets the schematics. He replied with the cheap labor in Colombia ($1.00 an hour)
he just has his technicians test every component on the board.
I would love to send him a defective board and see what he can do with it.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376

On September 26, 2020 at 7:31 PM rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Just a related comment...seems these boards fail alot....my MDKAV has this expensive board as well.  There has been at least one posting claiming that heat "melts" these boards.  When I run the generator and (almost always make water at the same time) I leave the engine room open (we are always at anchor or mooring ball so the noise to others is minimal).  That extractor fan is pretty feeble and I think the Dessalator motor likes to be cool as well.  Might make a difference.  My engine room has a 220V outlet mounted up high on the forward bulkhead and I have a 220 fan that is aimed at the Dessalator high pressure pump and in the general vacinity of the battery chargers.  Since this fan works anytime we are on shorepower or when the generator is producing 220 it might help.  Maybe I need to point another one at the generator control board area.  These portable plastic fans are cheap and also help when you are working in the engine room--can be run off the inverter or on shore power in those situations.

To ramble on a little more....a while back I wrote Fight Systems, Inc. that makes more reasonably priced replacement control boards for Onans and asked them if they could offer a board for MDKAVs and received the following reply"
Hi Bob, 

Thank you for reaching out to us. We consider many factors where looking at possible aftermarket replacement projects. The engineering process takes 6-8 months and costs well over $30,000, so we have to be sure a market exists that will allow for us to recover expenses in a reasonable amount of time. There are several drawbacks to designing a replacement for the 327-1533, the first is the customer case that the board rests in. That case will require an up front tooling cost of about $15,000 if we were to commission a plastic injection mold. That would be in addition to the $30,000 engineering investment. Unfortunately, at this time I am not confident we would be able to recoup our investment within a one year period based on the number of generators In the market that use this control. I wish it were as simple as snapping my fingers and having a replacement available. 

Regards,

Anthony Misiti
COO
Flight Systems
Maybe we could entice them with a pre purchase of a hundred or more.....seems like carrying a spare control board is a good idea.  Their boards run in the $250 to $300 range.

Bob and Suzanne Rossi, KAIMI SM 429

 


Re: generator pcb board

rossirossix4
 

Just a related comment...seems these boards fail alot....my MDKAV has this expensive board as well.  There has been at least one posting claiming that heat "melts" these boards.  When I run the generator and (almost always make water at the same time) I leave the engine room open (we are always at anchor or mooring ball so the noise to others is minimal).  That extractor fan is pretty feeble and I think the Dessalator motor likes to be cool as well.  Might make a difference.  My engine room has a 220V outlet mounted up high on the forward bulkhead and I have a 220 fan that is aimed at the Dessalator high pressure pump and in the general vacinity of the battery chargers.  Since this fan works anytime we are on shorepower or when the generator is producing 220 it might help.  Maybe I need to point another one at the generator control board area.  These portable plastic fans are cheap and also help when you are working in the engine room--can be run off the inverter or on shore power in those situations.

To ramble on a little more....a while back I wrote Fight Systems, Inc. that makes more reasonably priced replacement control boards for Onans and asked them if they could offer a board for MDKAVs and received the following reply"
Hi Bob, 

Thank you for reaching out to us. We consider many factors where looking at possible aftermarket replacement projects. The engineering process takes 6-8 months and costs well over $30,000, so we have to be sure a market exists that will allow for us to recover expenses in a reasonable amount of time. There are several drawbacks to designing a replacement for the 327-1533, the first is the customer case that the board rests in. That case will require an up front tooling cost of about $15,000 if we were to commission a plastic injection mold. That would be in addition to the $30,000 engineering investment. Unfortunately, at this time I am not confident we would be able to recoup our investment within a one year period based on the number of generators In the market that use this control. I wish it were as simple as snapping my fingers and having a replacement available. 

Regards,

Anthony Misiti
COO
Flight Systems
Maybe we could entice them with a pre purchase of a hundred or more.....seems like carrying a spare control board is a good idea.  Their boards run in the $250 to $300 range.

Bob and Suzanne Rossi, KAIMI SM 429