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Re: Washing Machine Replacement for SM #160
Hi Karen,
See the attached photo. We purchased it from Le Ship in Martinique in 2016. It cost way too much, but seems well built, and has a metal bar I can install for passages to lock the drum in place. We also installed a 1600w sine wave inverter under the Nav station to run the machine without running the generator when on the hook. It is not wired into the boat system, and we physically plug the washing machine into it when we want to use it. The inverter does not have enough watts to heat water, but works great on a cold cycle with very little drain from the batteries.
Regards,
Steve Davis
Aloha SM72
On the hard in Hawaii
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Jarek Zemlo
Rink Hi, I got this profile from Maud (see below). Do you know if this is the correct one for the SM (1997) ?  Best regards -- Jarek Zemlo
NOA BLUE
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Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug
Paul. The guy here in Fort Lauderdale was mobile. He came to the boat. And it was something like 60$us. Worth every penny! Porter A54-152. Excuse the errors. Sent from my IPhone Www.fouribis.com
On Feb 9, 2020, at 12:00 PM, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:
Porter, That seems like a good idea to me. We’re in Grenada – I will make some enquiries. If not here then maybe I will just refill the tank for now and wait until I find a place that has this facility and hope they can deal with an almost full tank. Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io
Sent: 09 February 2020 12:14
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug Paul Where are you? We used a professional fuel polisher person who came to the baot and with a pump and a bunch of filters. He washed the tank with the fuel and filtered all the fuel and put back in the tank. Tank and fuel was spotless afterwards. It's a service available in many places. That may be the way to go. Porter A54-152
On Feb 9, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote: My dip stick tells me I have a fairly thick coat of sludge at the bottom of the tank. I have just done a short but fairly rough passage, motor sailing, with 170 litres in the tank, and did not have any fuel problem. I have been aiming to get it as low as I can before figuring out how to clean the tank. Presumably I should suck out the remaining fuel – about 150 litres now – then use some combined mechanical/chemical means of cleaning the bottom. Not really sure how to go about that so any advice would be well appreciated. S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 Hi Scott, I really can't say what I do is right, but here are a few things that seem to work for me so far. 1) I try to use more than half the tank before refueling to replace the old with fresh. That is dependent on having it available when you need it, but we are in the Caribbean. 2) we have avoided biodiesel. 3) I use StarTron treatment as that has been what was available when I have needed to replenish. 4) I leave the tank full during the off season to reduce condensation from air that enters thru the vent during the daily temperature cycles. 5) I have inspected my tank twice in 4 years when there was less than 200 liters in the tank (I could not see the bottom of the tank when there was more than 200 liters). The walls and floor we're shiny, but both times there were several small 50cm2 patches of slime on the floor. I attached a 2 meter length of small fuel hose to my fuel dipstick with a couple zip-ties and then stuck the end of the hose into the slime spot and sucked it up with a 5 liter vacuum fluid (oil)extractor. 6) I also shine a light thru the racor bowls regularly to monitor if any sludge is getting into them. The risk of running the fuel tank low is that rough seas will break loose and break up any accumulated sludge. Best regards, Daniel Carlson on sm #387, sv BeBe My paranoia about my Volvo D3-110 (rev c) has been kicked back into high gear. I think this applies to anyone with a diesel engine but particularly with the hyper sensitive D3-110.
I know a few A54 owners with failed D3-110 due to water ingress. We've discussed that on another thread. I'll leave that discussion there.
Recently I met a HR46 owner who had to lag behind the World ARC ($$$$!) because of diesel bug issues on his D3-110C. Another HR48 owner had the same issue and in both cases, the engine died and wouldn't start back up. His tank was disgusting, apparently. I've opened my inspection hatches and my tank is nearly pristine. But I am not going to rest on my laurels.
What do you guys do to keep your fuel system clean? Here's my procedure and I hope I can improve on it with your help:
1) Diesel only from places that get high turnover. We aim for duty-free, so they're usually in high demand.
2) Outside of the US and EU, we use the Baja filter. Damn slow at only around 8liters per minute, but you gotta do what you gotta do... That said, I know of a few owners in the EU who have had diesel bug - seems more prevalent with biodiesel.
One idea to reduce filling time (900/8 = nearly two hours!!) is to use the Baja Filter to fill up our spare 20liter jerry can and then inspect the Baja filter. If all is good, just fill up the boat without the filter.
3) I use BioBor JF. I don't know if it's the best, but I found a bottle in the US that was enough to treat 10,000 liters, so that was my decision making criteria.
4) I have 10 micron Racor filters in the water separator filters. I carry 15 filters aboard. Two micron in the Volvo, per spec.
5) Pray.
What do you all do to ensure you aren't stricken by the bug?
--
Scott
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com
--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
-- Cheers Paul Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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Amel 55 Steering Cable Information and Supplier
Good day all.
A friend of ours and non forum member has an Amel 55 and needs to replace their steering cables. Amel told them the suppler is no longer available. I remember reading that owners were having trouble getting steering parts from Amel but I thought that was for older boats and I also thought Amel resolved that issue? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. They are currently in either the Grenadines or Grenada.
All the best.
Paul Stascavage
SM 466.
S/V Rita Kathryn
RitaKathryn.com
Currently Cruising The Bahamas
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Re: A54 bow thruster directly to battery or through main switches?
Scott,
That is a strange one. I would try measuring the voltage at the motor during operation to what is going on. If you lose power at the BT during your test then back track the BT wiring while operating the BT to find the fault. If you have voltage at the motor when it stops during your test then look into the motor. Maybe a relay issue? Best of luck. James SV Sueno Maramu #220
On Feb 9, 2020 9:07 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote: Our bow thruster was indeed wired through a switch, too.
I've worked with Sleipner to try to isolate the intermittent functioning problem to no avail. It runs full speed and then stops momentarily and then will start again. No slowdown to indicate drop in voltage. The Amel joystick has been cleaned and tested and shows nearly zero ohms on activation.
Every switch and thermal protection within the Sidepower thruster has been "jumpered" and it still doesn't work. I was hoping the problem was the main battery switch but I moved the positive bow thruster supply wire from the secondary side of the switch directly to the battery side. The only thing left is the motor itself but the brushes and commutator look perfect. The annoying bit is that this motor is only a year old and Sleipner wants me to ship it back to them from Panama at my cost, wait for them to test it, get warranty approval, ship it back (at my cost) and pay customs duty. I might as well buy a new motor! With a canal appointment, I clearly don't want to do this.
Anyone have any other ideas on what I should check? I haven't tested voltage at the BT during operation because I don't have alligator clips, but the fact that the BT either runs full speed or not at all, without any slowdown indicates to me that it's not an issue with enough voltage getting to the BT.
--Scott
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug
Some great discussion here. One item that I did not see discussed that could be helpful especially in humid climates is adding a dessicant dryer to the vent line. Regular replacement and lubrication of the O ring seal at the fill cap is important as well. Best of luck.
James SV Sueno Maramu #220
On Feb 9, 2020 11:49 AM, "Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io" <portermcroberts@...> wrote: I agree Nick— You're right, certainly about the industry norm. And I’m sure there are many theories on this: and mine may be incorrect. But the way I think of it: Crud exists in a myriad of sizes. Crud forms… then gets into the filter system and clogs. If i have a series of sequentially smaller sized filters, i simply clog them all. and then replace them all. If a bolus of crud makes it into the sequential filtering setup: filters essentially sort the crud into smaller sizes at a great cost (especially with the last Volvo filter now being fouled). So we've cruised with the 2 micron setup for about 500 hours of motoring from panama to NZ last year and it seemed to work well. no issues. Filters seemed pretty good looking when i changed them Usually around 100 hrs, (I previously was quite derelict about it, prior to really understanding how important clean fuel was.) I have noticed the manometer pressure reading on the setup would climb slightly over the 100 hrs, but never concerningly high. So scenario above A, with ostensibly clean fuel, worked for us, for this while.
So… Scenario B: Cruddy fuel shows up. A slosh of crud makes it into the filter setup. (is this an isolated bit of crud, or does it advertize a yet much larger crub problem in the tank) Currently it would saturate the 2 micron first filter and pressures climb, engine shuts down alerting us to a pressure scenario and we change filter: but now we know we have cruddy fuel and need to polish it and the tank. (and why I’d like a separate fuel polishing system on board.) Heres where my scenario breaks down: it depends on the amount of crud: pump it out and through baja filter into jerry cans? then run engine off jerry cans? or...( I do have a bunch of 10mn and 30mn sizes as well) as well put those on and let the filters clean the crud out: but if I increase the racor size then ill be clogging my 130$ volvo filters very fast: i carry about 4 of those, They're proprietary and hard to get in places. It turns into a "S" show.
So what's governed our cruising: sail smart, with wind as much as possible so we motor little. Praise our relatively large 900 litre tank, and the freedom it adds to be discriminate about fuel choice. When others are fueling out of necessity, i find myself adding fuel not because i think we're low, but… hey were sailors and should keep topped up stores.
I'd be surprised if I’d completely thought this through, I'm sure there are some folks who really understand this at a much deeper level and I would love to hear from them and you.
And as you note Nick, it is the industry norm, and usually there is good reason for that! To that end, if the Volvo-proprietary “C” filters were as inexpensive as the racors—I’d also stick to industry norm.
I’d respectfully welcome any thinking and guidance.
Porter A54-154 with a “H” model D3-110
On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:42 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io < ngtnewington@...> wrote:
Hi Scott and Porter,
I choose to use a 10 or even 30 micron filter on the Racor followed by the Volvo secondary filter which is 2 micron I believe.
In my opinion by having the pre-filter at 2 micron you are in effect only having one filter. So in the event of major contamination the Racor will plug and the engine will suffer from fuel starvation. You may also damage the fuel pump, although on the 54 the fuel is gravity fed from the tank to the filters.
The same principle applies to the water maker. There is a course filter followed by the fine filter. You can not just go straight to the fine.
I know this is a controversial subject but that is my opinion….and the industry norm.
Nick
Amelia AML 54-019 Kilada Greece
I understand. We have the same setup. The dual racor (A vs B) and A+B if one wishes. We keep the 2 micron on both A and B and use only A or B, switching back and forth. Filter C is of course the very pricey Volvo-specific filter/fuel water separator, which is what I want to spare by using the 2 micron. I watch the pressure gauge on the racors a lot. That’s why we change frequently, to keep pressures low. We have no pre-pre filters.
I remember a thread on this about a year ago, the 2 micron pre-filter argument. That’s when we switched. Its hard to be scientific when we have limited data re what works “best.”
Great comments on why to keep the tank full during storage.
Porter A54-152
Porter, I have the two racor filter setup. I consider this the primary filter / pre-filter. Options: 1) FilterA only 2) FilterB only 3) FilterA and FilterB in parallel Do you run the 2 micron filters here? On my D3-110C there's a Volvo spin-on filter (2 micron) on the engine itself. We'll call that FilterC Did you install a pre-filter before the Racors?? -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: A54 bow thruster directly to battery or through main switches?
Arno Luijten
Hi Scott,
I have not looked in detail to the setup of the thruster yet but I know there is something in place to prevent sudden changes in rotation direction. In other words a device to prevent you from changing direction on the thruster too quickly. Could that be the cause of your trouble?
Regards,
Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121
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Re: SM Prop Shaft Seal direction and Bushing
Hello Mike, Amel recommandations is to change the seals and bushing every 700 h of use. Also recommend 2 seals protecting the oil side and one on the water side.
We before crossing the Pacific we reverse this logic since haul up facility are fare apart and if water get in here it could make a big mess in the engine room by over flowing. (We use the shaft alternator during all crossing) It's very important to clean well the seal seating on the water side and make sure no residue remain.
Regards
Jean Pierre Massicotte SN 51
On Sun., Feb. 9, 2020, 09:51 Craig Briggs SN 68 Sangaris via Groups.Io, <sangaris= aol.com@groups.io> wrote: Hi Mike,
I suspect there is nothing new on this nor any particular consensus - it may well have migrated from engineering to philosophy ;-)
If yours is fine you may want to follow the adage of, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". Or change it and in a couple of years add to the anecdotal evidence being accumulated.
Cheers, Craig
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Re: Washing Machine Replacement for SM #160
On Sun, Feb 9, 2020 at 11:08 AM, James Sterling wrote:
Whirlpool TDLR 70210
A nice machine, but at 900mm in height, it won't fit on our older boat....
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Re: Washing Machine Replacement for SM #160
We replaced ours with a Whirlpool TDLR 70210 we imported from Denmark. Fit perfectly in our SM 418.
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Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug
Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
Porter, That seems like a good idea to me. We’re in Grenada – I will make some enquiries. If not here then maybe I will just refill the tank for now and wait until I find a place that has this facility and hope they can deal with an almost full tank. Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io
Sent: 09 February 2020 12:14
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug Paul Where are you? We used a professional fuel polisher person who came to the baot and with a pump and a bunch of filters. He washed the tank with the fuel and filtered all the fuel and put back in the tank. Tank and fuel was spotless afterwards. It's a service available in many places. That may be the way to go. Porter A54-152
On Feb 9, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote: My dip stick tells me I have a fairly thick coat of sludge at the bottom of the tank. I have just done a short but fairly rough passage, motor sailing, with 170 litres in the tank, and did not have any fuel problem. I have been aiming to get it as low as I can before figuring out how to clean the tank. Presumably I should suck out the remaining fuel – about 150 litres now – then use some combined mechanical/chemical means of cleaning the bottom. Not really sure how to go about that so any advice would be well appreciated. S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 Hi Scott, I really can't say what I do is right, but here are a few things that seem to work for me so far. 1) I try to use more than half the tank before refueling to replace the old with fresh. That is dependent on having it available when you need it, but we are in the Caribbean. 2) we have avoided biodiesel. 3) I use StarTron treatment as that has been what was available when I have needed to replenish. 4) I leave the tank full during the off season to reduce condensation from air that enters thru the vent during the daily temperature cycles. 5) I have inspected my tank twice in 4 years when there was less than 200 liters in the tank (I could not see the bottom of the tank when there was more than 200 liters). The walls and floor we're shiny, but both times there were several small 50cm2 patches of slime on the floor. I attached a 2 meter length of small fuel hose to my fuel dipstick with a couple zip-ties and then stuck the end of the hose into the slime spot and sucked it up with a 5 liter vacuum fluid (oil)extractor. 6) I also shine a light thru the racor bowls regularly to monitor if any sludge is getting into them. The risk of running the fuel tank low is that rough seas will break loose and break up any accumulated sludge. Best regards, Daniel Carlson on sm #387, sv BeBe My paranoia about my Volvo D3-110 (rev c) has been kicked back into high gear. I think this applies to anyone with a diesel engine but particularly with the hyper sensitive D3-110.
I know a few A54 owners with failed D3-110 due to water ingress. We've discussed that on another thread. I'll leave that discussion there.
Recently I met a HR46 owner who had to lag behind the World ARC ($$$$!) because of diesel bug issues on his D3-110C. Another HR48 owner had the same issue and in both cases, the engine died and wouldn't start back up. His tank was disgusting, apparently. I've opened my inspection hatches and my tank is nearly pristine. But I am not going to rest on my laurels.
What do you guys do to keep your fuel system clean? Here's my procedure and I hope I can improve on it with your help:
1) Diesel only from places that get high turnover. We aim for duty-free, so they're usually in high demand.
2) Outside of the US and EU, we use the Baja filter. Damn slow at only around 8liters per minute, but you gotta do what you gotta do... That said, I know of a few owners in the EU who have had diesel bug - seems more prevalent with biodiesel.
One idea to reduce filling time (900/8 = nearly two hours!!) is to use the Baja Filter to fill up our spare 20liter jerry can and then inspect the Baja filter. If all is good, just fill up the boat without the filter.
3) I use BioBor JF. I don't know if it's the best, but I found a bottle in the US that was enough to treat 10,000 liters, so that was my decision making criteria.
4) I have 10 micron Racor filters in the water separator filters. I carry 15 filters aboard. Two micron in the Volvo, per spec.
5) Pray.
What do you all do to ensure you aren't stricken by the bug?
--
Scott
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com
--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
-- Cheers Paul Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug
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Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug
I agree Nick— You're right, certainly about the industry norm. And I’m sure there are many theories on this: and mine may be incorrect. But the way I think of it: Crud exists in a myriad of sizes. Crud forms… then gets into the filter system and clogs. If i have a series of sequentially smaller sized filters, i simply clog them all. and then replace them all. If a bolus of crud makes it into the sequential filtering setup: filters essentially sort the crud into smaller sizes at a great cost (especially with the last Volvo filter now being fouled). So we've cruised with the 2 micron setup for about 500 hours of motoring from panama to NZ last year and it seemed to work well. no issues. Filters seemed pretty good looking when i changed them Usually around 100 hrs, (I previously was quite derelict about it, prior to really understanding how important clean fuel was.) I have noticed the manometer pressure reading on the setup would climb slightly over the 100 hrs, but never concerningly high. So scenario above A, with ostensibly clean fuel, worked for us, for this while.
So… Scenario B: Cruddy fuel shows up. A slosh of crud makes it into the filter setup. (is this an isolated bit of crud, or does it advertize a yet much larger crub problem in the tank) Currently it would saturate the 2 micron first filter and pressures climb, engine shuts down alerting us to a pressure scenario and we change filter: but now we know we have cruddy fuel and need to polish it and the tank. (and why I’d like a separate fuel polishing system on board.) Heres where my scenario breaks down: it depends on the amount of crud: pump it out and through baja filter into jerry cans? then run engine off jerry cans? or...( I do have a bunch of 10mn and 30mn sizes as well) as well put those on and let the filters clean the crud out: but if I increase the racor size then ill be clogging my 130$ volvo filters very fast: i carry about 4 of those, They're proprietary and hard to get in places. It turns into a "S" show.
So what's governed our cruising: sail smart, with wind as much as possible so we motor little. Praise our relatively large 900 litre tank, and the freedom it adds to be discriminate about fuel choice. When others are fueling out of necessity, i find myself adding fuel not because i think we're low, but… hey were sailors and should keep topped up stores.
I'd be surprised if I’d completely thought this through, I'm sure there are some folks who really understand this at a much deeper level and I would love to hear from them and you.
And as you note Nick, it is the industry norm, and usually there is good reason for that! To that end, if the Volvo-proprietary “C” filters were as inexpensive as the racors—I’d also stick to industry norm.
I’d respectfully welcome any thinking and guidance.
Porter A54-154 with a “H” model D3-110
On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:42 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io < ngtnewington@...> wrote:
Hi Scott and Porter,
I choose to use a 10 or even 30 micron filter on the Racor followed by the Volvo secondary filter which is 2 micron I believe.
In my opinion by having the pre-filter at 2 micron you are in effect only having one filter. So in the event of major contamination the Racor will plug and the engine will suffer from fuel starvation. You may also damage the fuel pump, although on the 54 the fuel is gravity fed from the tank to the filters.
The same principle applies to the water maker. There is a course filter followed by the fine filter. You can not just go straight to the fine.
I know this is a controversial subject but that is my opinion….and the industry norm.
Nick
Amelia AML 54-019 Kilada Greece
I understand. We have the same setup. The dual racor (A vs B) and A+B if one wishes. We keep the 2 micron on both A and B and use only A or B, switching back and forth. Filter C is of course the very pricey Volvo-specific filter/fuel water separator, which is what I want to spare by using the 2 micron. I watch the pressure gauge on the racors a lot. That’s why we change frequently, to keep pressures low. We have no pre-pre filters.
I remember a thread on this about a year ago, the 2 micron pre-filter argument. That’s when we switched. Its hard to be scientific when we have limited data re what works “best.”
Great comments on why to keep the tank full during storage.
Porter A54-152
Porter, I have the two racor filter setup. I consider this the primary filter / pre-filter. Options: 1) FilterA only 2) FilterB only 3) FilterA and FilterB in parallel Do you run the 2 micron filters here? On my D3-110C there's a Volvo spin-on filter (2 micron) on the engine itself. We'll call that FilterC Did you install a pre-filter before the Racors?? -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Mark Erdos
Pat, it is very heavy and the freight is the killer if ordered
from Amel
We managed to
get replacement rub-rail inserts from another owner in Martinique.
With best
regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel
- Cream Puff
www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, February 8, 2020 9:37 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] rub rail insert
Gary, I don't understand the cost of $2686. for the insert/scupper
,Maud quoted me about $798. Euro . I agree a painted boat is much easier to
keep clean and shiny. The paint is not porous like the gelcoat ,thus does not
hold stains. I will use your time for labor to install the scuppers to
negotiate a better price before submitting to my insurance company.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Fri, Feb 7, 2020 2:25 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] rub rail insert
I obtained my rub rail insert (I call it "scupper") from
SAV in Dec 2017 for repairs Liahona ( Hull # 335) sustained during Hurricanes
Irma and Maria. The material, including shipping (air freight) to Puerto
Rico was $,2686 US. Removal of the original scupper is very quick (easily
less than one hour), I wasn't present when they inserted the new scupper
but did see it done to Liahona's sister boat, "Cloud Street" (Hull #
333 I believe) done a few weeks after my boat was done. I would estimate
that it took two workers about 4 hrs per side to install the new scupper
material.
Sorry for thread creep: Following hurricane repairs my hull, boot stripe, rub
rail, and toe rail (including all hatch surrounds and hatch areas that were
matching color) were painted with multiple coats of epoxy primer followed by
multiple coats (5 as I recall) of Awlcraft. It was explained and
demonstrated to me that re-gel coating damaged areas would lead to excessive
porosity and poor outcome. It was further explained to me that Awlcraft
was easier to repair than Awlgrip and that is why it was recommended to me.
It looks great and my boat maintenance has decreased since I don't have
to wax the toe rail and rub rail every couple of months. I choose Awlgrip
for my deck-stripe repaint due to it being harder and more abrasion resistant.
All the best,
Gary S Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335
Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico
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Mark Erdos
That’s beautiful! How hard is it to do?
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel
- Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently
cruising - Galapagos
www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Steve Bode
Sent: Saturday, February 8, 2020 4:34 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] New Wheel Leather
I think Michelle did a really nice job on our helm...
--
Steve Bode
Capt. SV Intention
Amel SM #117 (1994)
+1 415 710-6659 Mobile/Text/WhatsApp
facebook.com/stevebodesanfrancisco
svintention.com
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Re: Steering racks for SN, SM & 54
Thanks Bill
On the to do list
Tom
On Feb 9, 2020, at 10:04 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Tom,
I am not sure. I believe that Maramus have the same rack. You should send an email to SAV"@"Amel.fr and ask.
Please let me know at email below what they say.
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| CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Good day Bill
I was wondering if Amel would have the racks for a 1983 Maramu # 125.
Barra De Navidad Mexico
200 miles to go for a circumnavigation !!
Thanks TOM Deasy
On Feb 7, 2020, at 9:07 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
This is to notify you that SAV"at"Amel.fr will have the steering racks available to ship in a few weeks. I understand that they have them, and are currently testing the installation.
I would like to point out to everyone that this is really admirable on the part of Amel. When I contacted the US branch of the company that originally made these racks, there was not any desire on their part to make these discontinued racks available. I am
not sure if Amel convinced them, or found someone else to make the racks, but in either case, Amel used their expertise and leverage to support owners with a discontinued manufacturer's part that Amel has not used since the last 54 was produced. Among boat
builders, I believe this is remarkable. I know that Maud and Thierry were very supportive of all of us.
Bill
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| CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug
Paul Where are you? We used a professional fuel polisher person who came to the baot and with a pump and a bunch of filters. He washed the tank with the fuel and filtered all the fuel and put back in the tank. Tank and fuel was spotless afterwards. It's a service available in many places. That may be the way to go.
On Feb 9, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown < paul.dowd@...> wrote:
Hi all, My dip stick tells me I have a fairly thick coat of sludge at the bottom of the tank. I have just done a short but fairly rough passage, motor sailing, with 170 litres in the tank, and did not have any fuel problem. I have been aiming to get it as low as I can before figuring out how to clean the tank. Presumably I should suck out the remaining fuel – about 150 litres now – then use some combined mechanical/chemical means of cleaning the bottom. Not really sure how to go about that so any advice would be well appreciated. Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 Hi Scott, I really can't say what I do is right, but here are a few things that seem to work for me so far. 1) I try to use more than half the tank before refueling to replace the old with fresh. That is dependent on having it available when you need it, but we are in the Caribbean. 2) we have avoided biodiesel. 3) I use StarTron treatment as that has been what was available when I have needed to replenish. 4) I leave the tank full during the off season to reduce condensation from air that enters thru the vent during the daily temperature cycles. 5) I have inspected my tank twice in 4 years when there was less than 200 liters in the tank (I could not see the bottom of the tank when there was more than 200 liters). The walls and floor we're shiny, but both times there were several small 50cm2 patches of slime on the floor. I attached a 2 meter length of small fuel hose to my fuel dipstick with a couple zip-ties and then stuck the end of the hose into the slime spot and sucked it up with a 5 liter vacuum fluid (oil)extractor. 6) I also shine a light thru the racor bowls regularly to monitor if any sludge is getting into them. The risk of running the fuel tank low is that rough seas will break loose and break up any accumulated sludge. Best regards, Daniel Carlson on sm #387, sv BeBe My paranoia about my Volvo D3-110 (rev c) has been kicked back into high gear. I think this applies to anyone with a diesel engine but particularly with the hyper sensitive D3-110. I know a few A54 owners with failed D3-110 due to water ingress. We've discussed that on another thread. I'll leave that discussion there. Recently I met a HR46 owner who had to lag behind the World ARC ($$$$!) because of diesel bug issues on his D3-110C. Another HR48 owner had the same issue and in both cases, the engine died and wouldn't start back up. His tank was disgusting, apparently. I've opened my inspection hatches and my tank is nearly pristine. But I am not going to rest on my laurels. What do you guys do to keep your fuel system clean? Here's my procedure and I hope I can improve on it with your help: 1) Diesel only from places that get high turnover. We aim for duty-free, so they're usually in high demand. 2) Outside of the US and EU, we use the Baja filter. Damn slow at only around 8liters per minute, but you gotta do what you gotta do... That said, I know of a few owners in the EU who have had diesel bug - seems more prevalent with biodiesel. One idea to reduce filling time (900/8 = nearly two hours!!) is to use the Baja Filter to fill up our spare 20liter jerry can and then inspect the Baja filter. If all is good, just fill up the boat without the filter. 3) I use BioBor JF. I don't know if it's the best, but I found a bottle in the US that was enough to treat 10,000 liters, so that was my decision making criteria. 4) I have 10 micron Racor filters in the water separator filters. I carry 15 filters aboard. Two micron in the Volvo, per spec. 5) Pray. What do you all do to ensure you aren't stricken by the bug? -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Washing Machine Replacement for SM #160
After 25 years of loyal service it is time to retire our clothes washer. Parts are very hard to get, and it’s positively geriatric...
Our SM has an older (1996, Hull 160) clothes washer install, with a front loading Kenwood EU-340 (also branded as an Eudora Goldkind EU 340) that is significantly smaller (shorter!) than the units used in later model SMs.
The space available is about 500 mm wide, 400 mm deep, and 800 mm high. There are a few mm’s of squeeze there, but not many!
That height dimension is what’s driving us nuts… the Euro standard seems to be 856 mm in height, and that just won’t fit under our counter.
Anybody have a brand/model number for a suitable compact machine? Front load/top load either works—if it fits!
Thank you in advance!
Karen Smith s/v Harmonie SM #160
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
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Re: Steering racks for SN, SM & 54
Tom,
I am not sure. I believe that Maramus have the same rack. You should send an email to SAV"@"Amel.fr and ask. Please let me know at email below what they say.
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| CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Good day Bill
I was wondering if Amel would have the racks for a 1983 Maramu # 125.
Barra De Navidad Mexico
200 miles to go for a circumnavigation !!
Thanks TOM Deasy
On Feb 7, 2020, at 9:07 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
This is to notify you that SAV"at"Amel.fr will have the steering racks available to ship in a few weeks. I understand that they have them, and are currently testing the installation.
I would like to point out to everyone that this is really admirable on the part of Amel. When I contacted the US branch of the company that originally made these racks, there was not any desire on their part to make these discontinued racks available. I am
not sure if Amel convinced them, or found someone else to make the racks, but in either case, Amel used their expertise and leverage to support owners with a discontinued manufacturer's part that Amel has not used since the last 54 was produced. Among boat
builders, I believe this is remarkable. I know that Maud and Thierry were very supportive of all of us.
Bill
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| CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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Re: Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug
Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
Hi all, My dip stick tells me I have a fairly thick coat of sludge at the bottom of the tank. I have just done a short but fairly rough passage, motor sailing, with 170 litres in the tank, and did not have any fuel problem. I have been aiming to get it as low as I can before figuring out how to clean the tank. Presumably I should suck out the remaining fuel – about 150 litres now – then use some combined mechanical/chemical means of cleaning the bottom. Not really sure how to go about that so any advice would be well appreciated. Cheers, Paul S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dan Carlson
Sent: 09 February 2020 11:00
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Paranoia about the D3-110 Volvo Penta - diesel bug Hi Scott, I really can't say what I do is right, but here are a few things that seem to work for me so far. 1) I try to use more than half the tank before refueling to replace the old with fresh. That is dependent on having it available when you need it, but we are in the Caribbean. 2) we have avoided biodiesel. 3) I use StarTron treatment as that has been what was available when I have needed to replenish. 4) I leave the tank full during the off season to reduce condensation from air that enters thru the vent during the daily temperature cycles. 5) I have inspected my tank twice in 4 years when there was less than 200 liters in the tank (I could not see the bottom of the tank when there was more than 200 liters). The walls and floor we're shiny, but both times there were several small 50cm2 patches of slime on the floor. I attached a 2 meter length of small fuel hose to my fuel dipstick with a couple zip-ties and then stuck the end of the hose into the slime spot and sucked it up with a 5 liter vacuum fluid (oil)extractor. 6) I also shine a light thru the racor bowls regularly to monitor if any sludge is getting into them. The risk of running the fuel tank low is that rough seas will break loose and break up any accumulated sludge. Best regards, Daniel Carlson on sm #387, sv BeBe My paranoia about my Volvo D3-110 (rev c) has been kicked back into high gear. I think this applies to anyone with a diesel engine but particularly with the hyper sensitive D3-110.
I know a few A54 owners with failed D3-110 due to water ingress. We've discussed that on another thread. I'll leave that discussion there.
Recently I met a HR46 owner who had to lag behind the World ARC ($$$$!) because of diesel bug issues on his D3-110C. Another HR48 owner had the same issue and in both cases, the engine died and wouldn't start back up. His tank was disgusting, apparently. I've opened my inspection hatches and my tank is nearly pristine. But I am not going to rest on my laurels.
What do you guys do to keep your fuel system clean? Here's my procedure and I hope I can improve on it with your help:
1) Diesel only from places that get high turnover. We aim for duty-free, so they're usually in high demand.
2) Outside of the US and EU, we use the Baja filter. Damn slow at only around 8liters per minute, but you gotta do what you gotta do... That said, I know of a few owners in the EU who have had diesel bug - seems more prevalent with biodiesel.
One idea to reduce filling time (900/8 = nearly two hours!!) is to use the Baja Filter to fill up our spare 20liter jerry can and then inspect the Baja filter. If all is good, just fill up the boat without the filter.
3) I use BioBor JF. I don't know if it's the best, but I found a bottle in the US that was enough to treat 10,000 liters, so that was my decision making criteria.
4) I have 10 micron Racor filters in the water separator filters. I carry 15 filters aboard. Two micron in the Volvo, per spec.
5) Pray.
What do you all do to ensure you aren't stricken by the bug?
--
Scott
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com
-- Cheers Paul Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
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