Re: Bow Thruster Service
Matt, This thread has nothing to do with the BT on your Amel 50. It is completely different and you will not have the issue being discussed here. This issue can happen on a SN or SM. Best, CW Bill Rouse 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:53 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
|
|
Re: Bow Thruster Service
Good to know
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Aug 28, 2019, at 11:45 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Bow Thruster Service
Mat, It depends on how much heat is applied and you can certainly damage GRP with a heat gun. This is the reason I would never say to carefully use a heat gun, nor would I say enough heat. "Carefully" or "enough" are non-specific. For instance, enough heat to separate, might be enough heat to damage GRP. Best, CW Bill Rouse 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 1:33 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
|
|
Re: Bow Thruster Service
Bill,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Would a heatgun provide enoughheat without affecting the FRP? ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Aug 28, 2019, at 10:21 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
|
|
In Martinique looking at Amels
Darren And Kel
We are in Martinique with a possible deal pending and looking at Amels. If anyone is considering any boats here, and would like some info, we would be happy to pass it along.
Kelly and Darren ISPA YachtMaster Instructor Evaluator ISPA YachtMaster Instructor.
|
|
Re: Bow Thruster Service
Bernd, You should be very, very careful with heat because the Bow Thruster Tube and case is made of GRP, not metal. The contact point is Cast Iron to the GRP tube. The problem is a result of NOT replacing the lip-seal and foam donuts, and possibly leaving the bow thruster down while sailing or motoring. Saltwater has passed through the seals and has caused corrosion on the electric motor base which is made of Cast Iron. This corrosion (Iron Oxidation) has reduced the size of the opening for the tube at the base of the motor. Your photos show that this has been more than a little saltwater over a long time, possibly months/years. It is going to be very difficult to separate the tube from the motor base. You will need the tool designed by Amel, plenty of penetrating fluid and 3-4 days of constant pressure to cause separation. You can use some light tapping or vibration on the cast iron motor base intermittently while constant pressure is applied with the special tool. But take care not to strile the base too hard because it is made of cast iron. I recommend that you closely check the lower bearing on the electric motor because I suspect it is also damaged. In the future, replace the seals every 2 years...also replace the 0.3 liters of 80/90 Gear Oil when you replace the seals. Always use plenty of waterproof grease at the contact points of the tube and motor base. This is the normal materials needed for service every 2 years (contact SAV"at"Amel.fr): You will certainly get other advice, but I firmly believe that you will not get better advice. Best, CW Bill Rouse 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:03 PM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
|
|
Re: Bow Thruster Service
A little heat?
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Aug 28, 2019, at 9:44 AM, "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Bow Thruster Service
jlm@jlmertz.fr
Hi ! I had the same problem ... You need a lot of patience, mutch WD40 and patience, do not forcing, do not break the threads, the contact is bronze on stainless ... I needed 2 days ... good luck JLM CottonBay Hold time 2 or 3 days with WD40, WD40 and much Le 28/08/2019 à 18:35, Bernd Spanner a
écrit :
Hello,
|
|
Re: Replacing all my head/clew/tack lashings - suggestions?
Scott, I believe that will work fine. Amel used "sail bolt" line. I am not sure why, but it was probably a decision of the sail subcontractor. As far as I know, Amel chose to never use metal shackles. Best, CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School - www.YachtSchool.us 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Wed, Aug 28, 2019, 7:59 AM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote: What are you all using to lash your sail heads/foots/clews?
|
|
Replacing all my head/clew/tack lashings - suggestions?
Scott SV Tengah
What are you all using to lash your sail heads/foots/clews?
The previous owner put a stainless shackle on the Genoa swivel and then attached the head to that. Of course, stainless + aluminum resulted in damage to the swivel enough that even though I tried to smooth it out, it caused the replacement lashing line to chafe right though in about a year. I only caught it recently when we took down the sails to have them refreshed - another few hundred miles and the Genoa would have taken a swim! Rather than risk this happening again, I am replacing all my lashing lines. What do you guys use? I am considering 6mm double braid dyneema with a breaking strength similar to the recommended Genoa halyard. I'll be looping it a few times between the head and the swivel. The other option is a soft shackle, which is what is used on the Genoa foot (included with the Bamar EFJ-1 furler). Strength is important but I really want to oversize, at least the Genoa head swivel connection, to maximize longevity against abrasion. I'm actually going to add an additional, longer independent lashing so that if the primary lashing fails, the Genoa will sag, but not drop in the ocean. An alarm system, if you will. -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
|
|
Re: Engine Battery cable to starter motor to be replaced - looking for experience
Mark McGovern
Dominique,
I agree with what most of the others have said here. It is highly unlikely that the cable itself is the problem. It is way more likely to be a loose, corroded, or damaged termination on either the +12V or -12V cables going from the starting battery to the starter motor on your engine. Check, clean, repair, re-install and apply Corrosion X (or your favorite corrosion inhibitor) on each termination on both + and - cables. Given that you say the starter battery is new, you should also check the voltage output on the 12V alternators on both the Yanmar and the Generator to make sure that they are working properly. You should also check and clean all the terminations on the cables going from the alternators to the starter battery. Last, get yourself a cheap battery tester like this one or similar: https://www.amazon.com/BA7-100-1200-Electronic-Battery-System/dp/B0015PI7A4/ref=asc_df_B0015PI7A4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312280085431&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4260724397295291035&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007796&hvtargid=pla-499796143917&psc=1 Please let us know what you find and how you resolved the issue. Good luck! -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA
|
|
Re: start stop engine
rossirossix4
Anybody have the diode part number and a US source for the diodes? Seems like they are a popular enough problem with the Yanmar to merit carrying a spare.
Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI is on the hard in Varadero, Aruba we are in Crested Butte, CO Varadero has a 7' + low tide channel to the marina. Use a hydraulic trailer lift for about $350USD with diver. One of the best lifts we've ever had with our SM or our SN. https://photos.app.goo.gl/2c1ZrAKD2gXcY7iQ6
|
|
Re: start stop engine
Gerhard Mueller
Altogether there are 15 diodes.
-- Gerhard Mueller Amel Sharki #60 Currently Kalamata, Greece
|
|
Re: AMEL HAS AN OFFICE IN HUNTINGTON NY
We were in La Rochelle, looking at our boat being built (#27), in July. We spoke with the marketing director: Amel sailed it across a few months ago.They kept it in Mamaroneck, NY. They plan to show at both Newport, and Annapolis. Then the plan is to sell the boat. ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Aug 26, 2019, at 7:45 PM, John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: AMEL HAS AN OFFICE IN HUNTINGTON NY
John Clark
Wow cool. Is Amel going to set up a US based service center?
On Thu, Aug 22, 2019, 3:00 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Insurance in Europe
John Clark
Agree as well. I have had experiences with venders that was good and bad requiring explaination. No we shouldn't wontonly black list vendors without cause, and some discussion would be enlightening to others. I too am with IMIS with a Jackline policy after my long-term insurance provider in the UK backed out of Caribbean basin. Knowledgible and responsive US based insurance. More expensive than before but so is everyone else after that bad year.
On Sun, Aug 25, 2019, 10:14 AM Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
|
|
Re: Engine Battery cable to starter motor to be replaced - looking for experience
eric freedman
Hi Dominique, I would first check that the battery connector at the starter motor is clean. I would also check The Valeo solenoid to see if it has clean connections both the battery cable and the small wire that goes to the engine block. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Dominique Guenot
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2019 7:25 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine Battery cable to starter motor to be replaced - looking for experience
Hello,
|
|
Re: start stop engine
eric freedman
Hi Kent, My engine has 2 diodes. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2019 4:24 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] start stop engine
To make it clearer, Amel uses a “floating”, or “isolated” ground system that disconnects battery negative from the bonding (zincs) system. It makes a connection to the engine block only when the starter, stop solenoid, or glow plugs are energized. A solenoid in the line between battery negative and the engine block is energized to complete the circuit. There are three diodes in the circuit that prevent a feedback loop which would energize the stop and start solenoids at the same time. If the stop diode failed, the button wouldn’t work. If the start diode shorted, you would hear the starter motor when you pushed the stop button.
|
|
Re: Shore power contactor burnt out
Wow!
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I’ve had, maybe 3 connections, over the years, that I was investigating due to poor performance fridge, pump, light), where the termination was hot enough to ignite the surroundings. Fortunately, I caught them in time, cleaned, and treated.....yes, terminations require maintenance.... ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Aug 26, 2019, at 3:41 AM, Craig Briggs via Groups.Io <sangaris@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Shore power contactor burnt out
Eamonn Washington
Hi
I am happy Tom found the problem before it became a big one. I added a 32A galvanic isolator in the aft lazarette, so the setup is complete. It is very handy having the rotary selection switch (Genset, Off, Shore) in the galley beside the Genset start switch. While I was looking for a solution I ordered the original contactor, second hand but looks OK and is vacuum packed. I don’t need it. If anyone wants it (free) they can have it, ideally by anchoring in the same bay but I could post it. Eamonn Washington Travel Bug Super Maramu #151 Currently in Alghero, Sardinia, Italy.
|
|