Date   

Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

Stefan Schaufert
 

Thanks to all of you. 
The chemical mace is usually not my favorit.
So I will try to dismantle the kitchen locker with the freezer completely. 
If this is successful and discovers some secrets I will tell you.

Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / Lady Charlyette


Re: Dessalator HP Hoses

Barry Connor
 

Hi Ruedi,
Should have checked that hose when we were together. Nicholas at Dessolator gave me the fitting needed to retighten these hoses. My hose covers peeled off last year. Nicholas actually made up the new hose for me when I stopped in Antibes last Dec on my way back to MDR. He used the new type hose which he said the cover would not disintegrate over time. Be very careful trying to tighten the one you have as it could just burst off which happened to me. It was very difficult to get it back on and it kept leaking slightly until I replaced it with the new one made by Nicholas. He made it 3 meters, you should get it slightly longer, was a stretch to get it to fit. 
As I said I am now dealing with 'Advance Yacht Systems" in the UK to get my Dessalator parts. have a look at their site. Alan is coming to the boat next week and is bringing my bits from them. They are shipping today for delivery to him tomorrow or Sat.
If their is some way you can order some hose and I could get it to you with the special fitting!
Or just get on to Nicholas and he will made you up a new hose.

Best regards

Barry and Penny
"SV Lady Penelope II"
Amel 54  #17
Syracusa,  Sicily

On Thursday, July 4, 2019, 7:21:54 AM GMT+1, tony wells via Groups.Io <tony.wells@...> wrote:


Hi Ruedi 

I replaced my Dessalator hoses in Corfu recently. I got them made (next day service) with stainless steel fittings (not cheap at €270 for the pair but good quality) at a farm equipment suppliers near the old town port:


Corfu old town port was full of effluent when I was last there so my suggestion would be to anchor or berth (free) at Petriti, an attractive port/anchorage at the SE tip of Corfu. And then hire a car from Safe Car Hire, in the village. 

Gouvia Marina is €87 a night or Mandraki Marina is in Corfu old town and very attractive, at €70 per night. 

Hope to see you in July someplace!

Tony & Lel
A54 Balthazar #102, Levkas, Greece





On 4 Jul 2019, at 06:45, Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Hi Mohammad 

 

Thank you for your valuable input. I just have seen by chance few days ago that the HP hose on the Membranes got some water leakage. I have tightening the screw a bit and it stopped. 

The big question is: HOW LONG?

 

Today after your comment I have checked the hose and it seem that the hose cover is slowly peeling off as well. So I have exactly the same problem what you described.

I will certainly order new hoses as well…. Not sure where I can wait for it. I’m in the south Ionian Sea and cannot wait for parts down here. 

 

What is your estimation from experience how many hours could the hose keep standing the pressure?

 

Best regards

Ruedi & Sabina Waldispuehl

"SY WASABI"

Amel 54. #55, Currently in Kyparissia 


MMSI: 269322000  , Call Sign: HBY3811



Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Mittwoch, 3. Juli 2019 um 11:37
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Masse - and Masse + lights

Hi Barry;

It was nice to finally meet and thanks for the drinks.

Dessalator usually stocks most of their items. They are pretty good at shipping and you should receive it in just a few a days. While you’re at it, check the condition of the high pressure hoses. Dessalator initially used HP hoses that were not UV resistant. I noticed droplets forming at one of our HP connections a couple of years ago. I tried to cut the hose back and redo the HP connector. The hose protective covering started to crumble. The connectors are designed to work with the hose covering and once the hose cover fails, so will the water tightness of the connector. If one of these fails while making water, the damage to the electronics and other items would be significant.

I ordered new hose and HP connectors and replaced all of them. From what I’ve been told by dessalator, the new hoses will not have the same issue.

Also check the bronze elbow from the HP pump to the blue pressure stabilizer canister ( if you have the 150 l/hr dessalator). Ours started leaking a few days ago. Luckily, since we have a smoke detector installed In the engine room, the moisture and mist from the high pressure leak at the elbow, set of the smoke detector and we caught it before further damage.

If you haven’t already done so, I would also recommend a smoke detector in the engine room.

Respectfully;


Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-454-3148 Fax

On Jul 3, 2019, at 8:35 AM, Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry@...> wrote:

Hi Bill,
Another query on solenoids.
I hope that you or another member might know options where I could get a good water solenoid on the back of the control panel for the Dessalotor 230v water maker.
This solenoid stropped working so I used the button on the side of this solenoid to get the good water flowing into the tank.
I am in Sicily and would like to know if this solenoid can be bought from a supplier who I could arrange shipping with.
Would appreciate any advise.

Best

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse, Sicily


On Jul 2, 2019, at 14:24, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Ruedi,

In your situation, I would look at the 24 volt solenoid switch for the 24 volt motor as being the most likely problem. I have noticed significant corrosion on these solenoid switches. 

If you disconnect only the wires from the motor and still have the light while the yellow/green bonding wire is connected, you have probably found a solenoid that needs replacing. 

Also, remember that saltwater is a good conductor of electricity. If saltwater is common between devices, all devices are "electrically connected."

I hope this helps you. Good luck. 

Bill Rouse

On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 4:54 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group Friends

 

I’m asking you guys if someone had the same or similar experience and what is your advice for my question:

 

I have a Negative Leak light on the 24V Pump-Motor of the Dessalator Duo. There is a Bonding wire (yellow/green) that runs from the Bonding strap in the grey-water sink to the Dessalator. But this wire is disconnected on the Dessalator unit. When I’m connecting the 24v pump directly to the bonding system the negative leak remains. Light is still on. 

 

The light does only switching OFF when I’m switching the pump on, or if I’m disconnecting the negative wire. 

BTW:  I cannot see any corrosion on the Dessalator unit. The DC motor itself has no contact to saltwater, - it's only the pressure pump in contact with saltwater (but no 24V connection).

 

- Does it mean I need a new 24V DC Motor? 

- Are there any longterm experiences what can happen if a negative (or positive) light is not fixed? 

- What is the affect and result of a longterm neg. vs pos. leak?

 

It’s very easy to get miliAmps of current on a 24V motor with brushes and wires, etc. Are we AMELies to paranoid with these lights?

 

Best regards

Ruedi

P.S. I still not fully understand how these lights working. To my understanding it is indication a leak from Masse - and Masse + against the AMEL bonding system. Maybe I’m wrong?


Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Mittwoch, 20. Februar 2019 um 14:21
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Masse - and Masse + lights

T
In the circumstance you describe, the light indicates that there is a connection (resistance) between either the positive or negative and the case of the macerator pump. That "connection" is usually saltwater leaking past the seal on the pump. It is an "early warning system" that your seal is leaking and your pump will fail. A switch such as you suggest will certainly be a "see no evil" solution.🙈😀 You could accomplish the same by disconnection the yellow/green wire from the case, but, don't you really want to know when you have a seal leak.
 
Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Tue, Feb 19, 2019 at 8:25 PM <derickgates@...> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]

I have been diligently checking the Masse- and + lights in the companionway. Over the past 5 years when one of the lights go on (usually the Masse - ) I go and disconnect the power lines to the forward or aft head and sure enough, the leak of current to ground stops and I replace that Jabsco pump. Recently the Masse light did not go out until I had unplugged both the heads at the same time, indicating to me that both the head pumps were leaking to ground.

It occurs to me that instead of replacing the pump, I could just install a toggle switch to the offending brown or blue wire, so that I can turn the circuit on when anyone uses the head, and turn it off in the interim.  Then I could continue to use the offending pump until it dies a natural death.

Am I fooling myself or would installing that switch stop the current leakage to the Amel bonding system?

Derick Gates
SM2K #400 Brava



Re: Mastervolt alternator overcharging

Joerg Esdorn
 

Success this morning.  Voltage sensing cable to regulator had a loose connection at the alternator.   That connection was very difficult to get at ...  So now voltage at regulator is about .3V HIGHER than at the voltmeter on the switchboard.   That’s understandable since the switchboard measures the voltage after loads.   I need to motor for a bit to get to the switchover from bulk to absorption- batteries are at 88% now.  But I’m confident that I’ve solved the problem.  Thanks much everyone for your help!   

Joerg Esdorn 





Re: Dessalator HP Hoses

tony wells
 

Hi Ruedi 

I replaced my Dessalator hoses in Corfu recently. I got them made (next day service) with stainless steel fittings (not cheap at €270 for the pair but good quality) at a farm equipment suppliers near the old town port:


Corfu old town port was full of effluent when I was last there so my suggestion would be to anchor or berth (free) at Petriti, an attractive port/anchorage at the SE tip of Corfu. And then hire a car from Safe Car Hire, in the village. 

Gouvia Marina is €87 a night or Mandraki Marina is in Corfu old town and very attractive, at €70 per night. 

Hope to see you in July someplace!

Tony & Lel
A54 Balthazar #102, Levkas, Greece





On 4 Jul 2019, at 06:45, Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Hi Mohammad 

 

Thank you for your valuable input. I just have seen by chance few days ago that the HP hose on the Membranes got some water leakage. I have tightening the screw a bit and it stopped. 

The big question is: HOW LONG?

 

Today after your comment I have checked the hose and it seem that the hose cover is slowly peeling off as well. So I have exactly the same problem what you described.

I will certainly order new hoses as well…. Not sure where I can wait for it. I’m in the south Ionian Sea and cannot wait for parts down here. 

 

What is your estimation from experience how many hours could the hose keep standing the pressure?

 

Best regards

Ruedi & Sabina Waldispuehl

"SY WASABI"

Amel 54. #55, Currently in Kyparissia 


MMSI: 269322000  , Call Sign: HBY3811



Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Mittwoch, 3. Juli 2019 um 11:37
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Masse - and Masse + lights

Hi Barry;

It was nice to finally meet and thanks for the drinks.

Dessalator usually stocks most of their items. They are pretty good at shipping and you should receive it in just a few a days. While you’re at it, check the condition of the high pressure hoses. Dessalator initially used HP hoses that were not UV resistant. I noticed droplets forming at one of our HP connections a couple of years ago. I tried to cut the hose back and redo the HP connector. The hose protective covering started to crumble. The connectors are designed to work with the hose covering and once the hose cover fails, so will the water tightness of the connector. If one of these fails while making water, the damage to the electronics and other items would be significant.

I ordered new hose and HP connectors and replaced all of them. From what I’ve been told by dessalator, the new hoses will not have the same issue.

Also check the bronze elbow from the HP pump to the blue pressure stabilizer canister ( if you have the 150 l/hr dessalator). Ours started leaking a few days ago. Luckily, since we have a smoke detector installed In the engine room, the moisture and mist from the high pressure leak at the elbow, set of the smoke detector and we caught it before further damage.

If you haven’t already done so, I would also recommend a smoke detector in the engine room.

Respectfully;


Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-454-3148 Fax

On Jul 3, 2019, at 8:35 AM, Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry@...> wrote:

Hi Bill,
Another query on solenoids.
I hope that you or another member might know options where I could get a good water solenoid on the back of the control panel for the Dessalotor 230v water maker.
This solenoid stropped working so I used the button on the side of this solenoid to get the good water flowing into the tank.
I am in Sicily and would like to know if this solenoid can be bought from a supplier who I could arrange shipping with.
Would appreciate any advise.

Best

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse, Sicily


On Jul 2, 2019, at 14:24, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Ruedi,

In your situation, I would look at the 24 volt solenoid switch for the 24 volt motor as being the most likely problem. I have noticed significant corrosion on these solenoid switches. 

If you disconnect only the wires from the motor and still have the light while the yellow/green bonding wire is connected, you have probably found a solenoid that needs replacing. 

Also, remember that saltwater is a good conductor of electricity. If saltwater is common between devices, all devices are "electrically connected."

I hope this helps you. Good luck. 

Bill Rouse

On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 4:54 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group Friends

 

I’m asking you guys if someone had the same or similar experience and what is your advice for my question:

 

I have a Negative Leak light on the 24V Pump-Motor of the Dessalator Duo. There is a Bonding wire (yellow/green) that runs from the Bonding strap in the grey-water sink to the Dessalator. But this wire is disconnected on the Dessalator unit. When I’m connecting the 24v pump directly to the bonding system the negative leak remains. Light is still on. 

 

The light does only switching OFF when I’m switching the pump on, or if I’m disconnecting the negative wire. 

BTW:  I cannot see any corrosion on the Dessalator unit. The DC motor itself has no contact to saltwater, - it's only the pressure pump in contact with saltwater (but no 24V connection).

 

- Does it mean I need a new 24V DC Motor? 

- Are there any longterm experiences what can happen if a negative (or positive) light is not fixed? 

- What is the affect and result of a longterm neg. vs pos. leak?

 

It’s very easy to get miliAmps of current on a 24V motor with brushes and wires, etc. Are we AMELies to paranoid with these lights?

 

Best regards

Ruedi

P.S. I still not fully understand how these lights working. To my understanding it is indication a leak from Masse - and Masse + against the AMEL bonding system. Maybe I’m wrong?


Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Mittwoch, 20. Februar 2019 um 14:21
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Masse - and Masse + lights

T
In the circumstance you describe, the light indicates that there is a connection (resistance) between either the positive or negative and the case of the macerator pump. That "connection" is usually saltwater leaking past the seal on the pump. It is an "early warning system" that your seal is leaking and your pump will fail. A switch such as you suggest will certainly be a "see no evil" solution.🙈😀 You could accomplish the same by disconnection the yellow/green wire from the case, but, don't you really want to know when you have a seal leak.
 
Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Tue, Feb 19, 2019 at 8:25 PM <derickgates@...> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]

I have been diligently checking the Masse- and + lights in the companionway. Over the past 5 years when one of the lights go on (usually the Masse - ) I go and disconnect the power lines to the forward or aft head and sure enough, the leak of current to ground stops and I replace that Jabsco pump. Recently the Masse light did not go out until I had unplugged both the heads at the same time, indicating to me that both the head pumps were leaking to ground.

It occurs to me that instead of replacing the pump, I could just install a toggle switch to the offending brown or blue wire, so that I can turn the circuit on when anyone uses the head, and turn it off in the interim.  Then I could continue to use the offending pump until it dies a natural death.

Am I fooling myself or would installing that switch stop the current leakage to the Amel bonding system?

Derick Gates
SM2K #400 Brava



Dessalator HP Hoses

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi Mohammad 

 

Thank you for your valuable input. I just have seen by chance few days ago that the HP hose on the Membranes got some water leakage. I have tightening the screw a bit and it stopped. 

The big question is: HOW LONG?

 

Today after your comment I have checked the hose and it seem that the hose cover is slowly peeling off as well. So I have exactly the same problem what you described.

I will certainly order new hoses as well…. Not sure where I can wait for it. I’m in the south Ionian Sea and cannot wait for parts down here. 

 

What is your estimation from experience how many hours could the hose keep standing the pressure?

 

Best regards

Ruedi & Sabina Waldispuehl

"SY WASABI"

Amel 54. #55, Currently in Kyparissia 


MMSI: 269322000  , Call Sign: HBY3811



Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Mittwoch, 3. Juli 2019 um 11:37
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Masse - and Masse + lights

Hi Barry;

It was nice to finally meet and thanks for the drinks.

Dessalator usually stocks most of their items. They are pretty good at shipping and you should receive it in just a few a days. While you’re at it, check the condition of the high pressure hoses. Dessalator initially used HP hoses that were not UV resistant. I noticed droplets forming at one of our HP connections a couple of years ago. I tried to cut the hose back and redo the HP connector. The hose protective covering started to crumble. The connectors are designed to work with the hose covering and once the hose cover fails, so will the water tightness of the connector. If one of these fails while making water, the damage to the electronics and other items would be significant.

I ordered new hose and HP connectors and replaced all of them. From what I’ve been told by dessalator, the new hoses will not have the same issue.

Also check the bronze elbow from the HP pump to the blue pressure stabilizer canister ( if you have the 150 l/hr dessalator). Ours started leaking a few days ago. Luckily, since we have a smoke detector installed In the engine room, the moisture and mist from the high pressure leak at the elbow, set of the smoke detector and we caught it before further damage.

If you haven’t already done so, I would also recommend a smoke detector in the engine room.

Respectfully;


Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-454-3148 Fax

On Jul 3, 2019, at 8:35 AM, Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry@...> wrote:

Hi Bill,
Another query on solenoids.
I hope that you or another member might know options where I could get a good water solenoid on the back of the control panel for the Dessalotor 230v water maker.
This solenoid stropped working so I used the button on the side of this solenoid to get the good water flowing into the tank.
I am in Sicily and would like to know if this solenoid can be bought from a supplier who I could arrange shipping with.
Would appreciate any advise.

Best

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse, Sicily


On Jul 2, 2019, at 14:24, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Ruedi,

In your situation, I would look at the 24 volt solenoid switch for the 24 volt motor as being the most likely problem. I have noticed significant corrosion on these solenoid switches. 

If you disconnect only the wires from the motor and still have the light while the yellow/green bonding wire is connected, you have probably found a solenoid that needs replacing. 

Also, remember that saltwater is a good conductor of electricity. If saltwater is common between devices, all devices are "electrically connected."

I hope this helps you. Good luck. 

Bill Rouse

On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 4:54 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group Friends

 

I’m asking you guys if someone had the same or similar experience and what is your advice for my question:

 

I have a Negative Leak light on the 24V Pump-Motor of the Dessalator Duo. There is a Bonding wire (yellow/green) that runs from the Bonding strap in the grey-water sink to the Dessalator. But this wire is disconnected on the Dessalator unit. When I’m connecting the 24v pump directly to the bonding system the negative leak remains. Light is still on. 

 

The light does only switching OFF when I’m switching the pump on, or if I’m disconnecting the negative wire. 

BTW:  I cannot see any corrosion on the Dessalator unit. The DC motor itself has no contact to saltwater, - it's only the pressure pump in contact with saltwater (but no 24V connection).

 

- Does it mean I need a new 24V DC Motor? 

- Are there any longterm experiences what can happen if a negative (or positive) light is not fixed? 

- What is the affect and result of a longterm neg. vs pos. leak?

 

It’s very easy to get miliAmps of current on a 24V motor with brushes and wires, etc. Are we AMELies to paranoid with these lights?

 

Best regards

Ruedi

P.S. I still not fully understand how these lights working. To my understanding it is indication a leak from Masse - and Masse + against the AMEL bonding system. Maybe I’m wrong?


Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Mittwoch, 20. Februar 2019 um 14:21
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Masse - and Masse + lights

T
In the circumstance you describe, the light indicates that there is a connection (resistance) between either the positive or negative and the case of the macerator pump. That "connection" is usually saltwater leaking past the seal on the pump. It is an "early warning system" that your seal is leaking and your pump will fail. A switch such as you suggest will certainly be a "see no evil" solution.🙈😀 You could accomplish the same by disconnection the yellow/green wire from the case, but, don't you really want to know when you have a seal leak.
 
Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Tue, Feb 19, 2019 at 8:25 PM <derickgates@...> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]

I have been diligently checking the Masse- and + lights in the companionway. Over the past 5 years when one of the lights go on (usually the Masse - ) I go and disconnect the power lines to the forward or aft head and sure enough, the leak of current to ground stops and I replace that Jabsco pump. Recently the Masse light did not go out until I had unplugged both the heads at the same time, indicating to me that both the head pumps were leaking to ground.

It occurs to me that instead of replacing the pump, I could just install a toggle switch to the offending brown or blue wire, so that I can turn the circuit on when anyone uses the head, and turn it off in the interim.  Then I could continue to use the offending pump until it dies a natural death.

Am I fooling myself or would installing that switch stop the current leakage to the Amel bonding system?

Derick Gates
SM2K #400 Brava



Re: SAILING TO FLORIDA FROM VENEZUELA

Mark Erdos
 

Alex,

 

An additional thought: Look at this website or app for planning your trips on the USA coast. It has local bridge names so  you can hail them to open, marinas/fuel, anchorages, and hazards. The hazards include shoaling areas, missing markers etc. www.activecaptain.com

 

I stand corrected on the airdraft of the Maramu. I should have looked at your boat type more closely. Regardless, the standard height for fixed bridges over the ICW is 65’.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alejandro Paquin
Sent: Tuesday, July 2, 2019 10:12 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] SAILING TO FLORIDA FROM VENEZUELA

 

I am considering sailing up to Florida early December, starting from my home port of La Guaira, Venezuela. I don´t think I would stop in Cuba in principle, but maybe Jamaica. Can anyone provide some tips and advice on a proposed route? Best place for US Port of entry and formalities with a foreign flag vessel and crew. What to expect with US Customs. Also any tips on sailing into the ICW in the Miami- Aventura area? Draft and bridges for example. Also, I don not have any holding tanks onbard, is this an issue to consider?
I´m thinking of heading south again in March or April 2020
--
Alex Paquin
S/V " SIMPATICO"
Amel Maramu
Hull #94, 1981


Re: Poor Anchor Chain Maintenance

James Sterling
 

I've learned many things from this boat.  The original angular anchor chain washdown attachment is missing and probably no longer made.  One could convert the line to fresh water but I'm told that the original wash pump did not have a pressure switch so putting a hand sprayer on it or one that doesn't would pop a breaker.  The shortest distance between two points for us was to use our zero G waterhose we keep onboard.  Put quick connects on it and attached it to the vertical cockpit shower valve under the helm seat.  The hose will reach the entire boat for washing off boat salt and my wife uses a hand sprayer to wash the anchor chain and anchor as it comes up.  Then it's stowed away.  The fresh water pump has a pressure switch on it so no worries.  It's not super high pressure but it's sufficient.   The hawse pipe has been plugged with a piece of foam rubber insulation around the chain.  We learned that lesson after 14 hours of 40knt winds and 10ft seas a 1 1/2 seconds apart.  Every couple of seconds we had our nose under the water submarining through the waves.   First time in my life I've ever gotten really sea sick.


Re: Poor Anchor Chain Maintenance

Arlo
 

Stiff brush avery couple of days while anchored in heavy growth sreas will keep that from happening. Regarding the rust, great incentive to wash down with fresh water when hauling anchor and to pull all the chain out 2x annually! Thanks for sharing so we can avoid that headache


Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

Craig Briggs
 

Good question Danny - would hate to loose an RO Membrane to chlorine destruction.
Points to consider:
  • Chlorine dissipates naturally over time - slower in a closed tank, though. So don't flush your water maker for a month or so after tank cleaning (just use it frequently).
  • Vitamin C or ascorbic acid neutralizes chlorine totally. Add a bunch. 2 pounds for 20 bucks.  (Maybe combine Orange Juice with the Vodka?)
  • Don't guess - get a swimming pool test kit and see how much chlorine you've got before, during and after cleaning the tank.
  • Replace your charcoal filter early and often but especially before your first back-flush after cleaning the tank.
Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris


Re: Poor Anchor Chain Maintenance

Paul Brown
 

Re-galvanising is a good option when there are signs of rusting and I found it economical

Regards Paul 


On 3 Jul 2019, at 8:47 pm, karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai@...> wrote:

James, I am sure that we aren’t the only two to have experienced this debacle.  I am going to pass my nickname “Rusty” on to you officially until the next person admits to dealing with the same problem.

I recommend cutting the floor out of the bow locker to access the chain locker.  Everyone will eventually need to do this anyway and it will make removing the ball of rusty chain a 1/2 day job, and allow access for yearly cleaning.

When you think it’s time to turn the chain end for end, my advice is to have it re-galvanized.

Kent
Kristy
SM243

On Jul 3, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Chuck_Kim_Joy <clacey9@...> wrote:

Great suggestions. One more. We anchored all over the Caribbean this season. Sometimes as long as 10 days in one spot. In Prickly bay Grenada we saw the worst fouling of chain. 2 inch thick growth on about 60 feet of chain. The worst smelling goup you've ever encountered. We we're 12 days in one spot. We could do nothing but sail with it to Trinidad and remove all chain power wash and disinfect the chain locker. It will never be the same neither will we. 
All the best 
Chuck 
Joy #388
Trinidad 

On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 1:10 PM Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi James:  

WOW!! If anyone needed additional impetus to take care of their chain (in addition to Kent on Kristi's story), you have provided it.  

May I make a couple of additional suggestions that have stood me in good stead for the last 18 years of my SM ownership (80% in Caribbean waters):
1.  Convert the anchor wash down system to fresh water.
2.  Install a fresh water deck wash down fitting (T'ed off with a valve from the anchor wash down line in the port forward locker).  Every time you wash down the deck, direct some fresh water down the hawse pipe to douse the "pile" with some fresh water. 
3.  Make sure to plug the hawse pipe when sailing to prevent salt water flooding in there. 
4.  Pay out all the chain when going on the hard or at least twice per year.

Thanks for sharing, and "motivating" us to be careful with this. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver, M.D.
s/v Liahona 
Amel SM 2000 Hull #335
Puerto Del Rey  Marina, Puerto Rico


Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

 

Barry,

Alcohol is a common disinfectant. The biggest issue is access to the 3 compartments in the SM and 54, especially if the SM or 54 has Salon Dining Seat Refrigeration.
 
Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 2:38 PM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,
I was told to clean out the tank from the opening on top. After doing a clean with a sponge then I also have used Vodka, have about 100 liters of  water then pour in 4 liters of Vodka, let it sit for a few hours and then fill with fresh water. 
Has anybody else used Vodka?

Best
Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Sicily


On Jul 3, 2019, at 19:49, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Stefan,

I remember my first years on BeBe. I seemed to do many things the hard way and some things the wrong way. It was a difficult and sometimes costly learning period. I am sure that everyone will join me in wishing you well with your 54.

To gain access to all 3 inspection ports on your A-54 is a very difficult task. Especially removing underseat refrigerator/freezer that I believe I see in the photo.

The three inspection ports for the 3 sections of the tank are:
Under the forward-facing refrigerator
Under the underseat refrigerator/freezer
Under the floor in the galley (shown in photo below).
image.png
If I were you, I would chemically clean/disinfect the freshwater tank via one of the ports...the easy one...the one under the floor.
1. To the freshwater water tank, add 2 liters of "household bleach" which is typically either 5.25 percent (“regular strength”) Chlorine
2. Fill the water tank with freshwater.
3. Allow the tank water with Chlorine to stand for 24-72 hours
4. Pump all of the water out of the freshwater tank using a submersible water pump through the middle inspection port.
5. Fill and pump-out 2 more times.
6. The appearance of the center patrician will mirror the other two.
<image.png>

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 


On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>


Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Bill,

Woud that amount of flushing be suficient to get the chorine levels down enough to prevent damage to the water maker membranes when back flushing with tank water?. I have read that a miniscule ppm can destroy them. I know we have a carbon filter between the water tank and the watermaker pump but I dont trust it. Accordingly I have put nothing but water maker water in my tanks for many years. I removed the freezer last year and did a full top to bottom scrub of the inside of the tank.

Regards

Danny

On 04 July 2019 at 05:49 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Stefan,

I remember my first years on BeBe. I seemed to do many things the hard way and some things the wrong way. It was a difficult and sometimes costly learning period. I am sure that everyone will join me in wishing you well with your 54.

To gain access to all 3 inspection ports on your A-54 is a very difficult task. Especially removing underseat refrigerator/freezer that I believe I see in the photo.

The three inspection ports for the 3 sections of the tank are:
Under the forward-facing refrigerator
Under the underseat refrigerator/freezer
Under the floor in the galley (shown in photo below).
image.png
If I were you, I would chemically clean/disinfect the freshwater tank via one of the ports...the easy one...the one under the floor.
1. To the freshwater water tank, add 2 liters of "household bleach" which is typically either 5.25 percent (“regular strength”) Chlorine
2. Fill the water tank with freshwater.
3. Allow the tank water with Chlorine to stand for 24-72 hours
4. Pump all of the water out of the freshwater tank using a submersible water pump through the middle inspection port.
5. Fill and pump-out 2 more times.
6. The appearance of the center patrician will mirror the other two.
image.png

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 

 

On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert < mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>

 

 


Re: Poor Anchor Chain Maintenance

karkauai
 

James, I am sure that we aren’t the only two to have experienced this debacle.  I am going to pass my nickname “Rusty” on to you officially until the next person admits to dealing with the same problem.

I recommend cutting the floor out of the bow locker to access the chain locker.  Everyone will eventually need to do this anyway and it will make removing the ball of rusty chain a 1/2 day job, and allow access for yearly cleaning.

When you think it’s time to turn the chain end for end, my advice is to have it re-galvanized.

Kent
Kristy
SM243

On Jul 3, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Chuck_Kim_Joy <clacey9@...> wrote:

Great suggestions. One more. We anchored all over the Caribbean this season. Sometimes as long as 10 days in one spot. In Prickly bay Grenada we saw the worst fouling of chain. 2 inch thick growth on about 60 feet of chain. The worst smelling goup you've ever encountered. We we're 12 days in one spot. We could do nothing but sail with it to Trinidad and remove all chain power wash and disinfect the chain locker. It will never be the same neither will we. 
All the best 
Chuck 
Joy #388
Trinidad 

On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 1:10 PM Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi James:  

WOW!! If anyone needed additional impetus to take care of their chain (in addition to Kent on Kristi's story), you have provided it.  

May I make a couple of additional suggestions that have stood me in good stead for the last 18 years of my SM ownership (80% in Caribbean waters):
1.  Convert the anchor wash down system to fresh water.
2.  Install a fresh water deck wash down fitting (T'ed off with a valve from the anchor wash down line in the port forward locker).  Every time you wash down the deck, direct some fresh water down the hawse pipe to douse the "pile" with some fresh water. 
3.  Make sure to plug the hawse pipe when sailing to prevent salt water flooding in there. 
4.  Pay out all the chain when going on the hard or at least twice per year.

Thanks for sharing, and "motivating" us to be careful with this. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver, M.D.
s/v Liahona 
Amel SM 2000 Hull #335
Puerto Del Rey  Marina, Puerto Rico


Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

Paul Brown
 

Yes, but only with fresh orange juice and lots of ice, I wake up and my tank remains an issue 

Paul 


On 3 Jul 2019, at 8:38 pm, Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry@...> wrote:

Hi Bill,
I was told to clean out the tank from the opening on top. After doing a clean with a sponge then I also have used Vodka, have about 100 liters of  water then pour in 4 liters of Vodka, let it sit for a few hours and then fill with fresh water. 
Has anybody else used Vodka?

Best
Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Sicily


On Jul 3, 2019, at 19:49, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Stefan,

I remember my first years on BeBe. I seemed to do many things the hard way and some things the wrong way. It was a difficult and sometimes costly learning period. I am sure that everyone will join me in wishing you well with your 54.

To gain access to all 3 inspection ports on your A-54 is a very difficult task. Especially removing underseat refrigerator/freezer that I believe I see in the photo.

The three inspection ports for the 3 sections of the tank are:
Under the forward-facing refrigerator
Under the underseat refrigerator/freezer
Under the floor in the galley (shown in photo below).
image.png
If I were you, I would chemically clean/disinfect the freshwater tank via one of the ports...the easy one...the one under the floor.
1. To the freshwater water tank, add 2 liters of "household bleach" which is typically either 5.25 percent (“regular strength”) Chlorine
2. Fill the water tank with freshwater.
3. Allow the tank water with Chlorine to stand for 24-72 hours
4. Pump all of the water out of the freshwater tank using a submersible water pump through the middle inspection port.
5. Fill and pump-out 2 more times.
6. The appearance of the center patrician will mirror the other two.
<image.png>

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 


On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>


Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

karkauai
 

I tried power washing, vinegar, and  peroxide...all to no avail.

On Kristy, two liters of bleach didn’t touch it.  I used  4 gallons and left it overnight for ~15 hours...it killed everything.  Be sure you top the tanks up until the water is touching the top of the tanks to kill what ever is lurking there.

I am looking into an ozone solution to keep the tanks fresh.  I’ll report when I’ve had it installed for a while.

Kent & Iris
Kristy
SM243

On Jul 3, 2019, at 1:49 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Stefan,

I remember my first years on BeBe. I seemed to do many things the hard way and some things the wrong way. It was a difficult and sometimes costly learning period. I am sure that everyone will join me in wishing you well with your 54.

To gain access to all 3 inspection ports on your A-54 is a very difficult task. Especially removing underseat refrigerator/freezer that I believe I see in the photo.

The three inspection ports for the 3 sections of the tank are:
Under the forward-facing refrigerator
Under the underseat refrigerator/freezer
Under the floor in the galley (shown in photo below).
<image.png>
If I were you, I would chemically clean/disinfect the freshwater tank via one of the ports...the easy one...the one under the floor.
1. To the freshwater water tank, add 2 liters of "household bleach" which is typically either 5.25 percent (“regular strength”) Chlorine
2. Fill the water tank with freshwater.
3. Allow the tank water with Chlorine to stand for 24-72 hours
4. Pump all of the water out of the freshwater tank using a submersible water pump through the middle inspection port.
5. Fill and pump-out 2 more times.
6. The appearance of the center patrician will mirror the other two.
<image.png>

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 


On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>


Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

Barry Connor
 

Hi Bill,
I was told to clean out the tank from the opening on top. After doing a clean with a sponge then I also have used Vodka, have about 100 liters of  water then pour in 4 liters of Vodka, let it sit for a few hours and then fill with fresh water. 
Has anybody else used Vodka?

Best
Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Sicily


On Jul 3, 2019, at 19:49, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Stefan,

I remember my first years on BeBe. I seemed to do many things the hard way and some things the wrong way. It was a difficult and sometimes costly learning period. I am sure that everyone will join me in wishing you well with your 54.

To gain access to all 3 inspection ports on your A-54 is a very difficult task. Especially removing underseat refrigerator/freezer that I believe I see in the photo.

The three inspection ports for the 3 sections of the tank are:
Under the forward-facing refrigerator
Under the underseat refrigerator/freezer
Under the floor in the galley (shown in photo below).
image.png
If I were you, I would chemically clean/disinfect the freshwater tank via one of the ports...the easy one...the one under the floor.
1. To the freshwater water tank, add 2 liters of "household bleach" which is typically either 5.25 percent (“regular strength”) Chlorine
2. Fill the water tank with freshwater.
3. Allow the tank water with Chlorine to stand for 24-72 hours
4. Pump all of the water out of the freshwater tank using a submersible water pump through the middle inspection port.
5. Fill and pump-out 2 more times.
6. The appearance of the center patrician will mirror the other two.
<image.png>

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 


On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>


Re: Mastervolt alternator overcharging

Paul Brown
 

+31 20 342 21 32 this gets you to reception the lady if you ask kindly should transfer you if he has time, his name is Michelle I believe,

Some times he has to call you back

I had issues last week when my MV alternator whodunnit not connect to the MasterBus and traced it to a corroded connection, can happen had the start of the season it appears 

All the best


On 3 Jul 2019, at 7:39 pm, Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313@...> wrote:

Thanks Paul.  Do you have a phone number?  


Re: Mastervolt alternator overcharging

Joerg Esdorn
 

Thanks Paul.  Do you have a phone number?  


Re: Mastervolt alternator overcharging

Joerg Esdorn
 

Thanks Bill.  Great minds think alike.  My next to do was to reprogram the regulator!  Temporary fix only but I agree that there must be a loose connection somewhere.  I will also call Mastervolt.  


Re: Mastervolt alternator overcharging

Paul Brown
 

Hi Joerg, I have call mastervolt head office and spoke with Michele a technician who is generally very helpful for information, he is on leave until the 8th of July I believe, this is one option 

Regards Paul 


On 3 Jul 2019, at 6:25 pm, Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313@...> wrote:

On my 55, I have a 110A/24v Mastervolt alternator for the house bank and the alpha pro regulator.  I’ve had the battery temp alarm come on several times now because the regulator does not switch from Bulk to absorption.  On my voltmeter on the panel, voltage is 30-31V and charge rate goes up and down quickly from 10-40A, all with the batteries full after days on shore charger.   I checked out the regulator with the Masteradjust software and the sense and battery voltage was just below the 28.5V for the switch to absorption.   So the regulator is seeing 2-2.5V less than what the batteries have - I checked the voltmeter with my multitester.   At the suggestion of Pochon, I just replaced the regulator but that wasn’t the problem. 
Any idea what could be wrong would be much app!   

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem
just left Barcelona for Valencia