Date   

St Vincent

Courtney Gorman
 

So Saturday I get a new crew in St Lucia heading south. I really don’t want to abuse them with a first long sail to Bequia so does anyone have a recommendation in st Vincent? Cheers
Courtney
S/v Trippin
54 #101


Re: Slatted floor in sail locker

 

Very Nice.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 3:36 PM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Hi All,

We tend to store the fenders inside the forward locker as the rear locker is used for other stuff and it has no draining capability. To improve draining in the forward locker I have created an elevated floor so water can drain more easy. I had to make it into two parts so you can remove it. The whole thing is screwed and glued together. Under the lower slats there are small plastic feet/discs to prevent the wood from sitting in water. I'm still thinking about painting the thing, although the wood is hard-wood.

Maybe some other Amel user finds this information useful.

Cheers,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Wasi #40 anchor forsale #facebook

Paul Brown
 

Thanks Bill


On 27 Jun 2019, at 6:58 pm, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

That i a great anchor for a SM or 54...30kg is undersized for a 55.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Thu, Jun 27, 2019 at 12:29 PM Paul Brown <feeder.brown@...> wrote:
Sorry, it’s a 30kg Wasi.


Re: Wasi #40 anchor forsale #facebook

 

That i a great anchor for a SM or 54...30kg is undersized for a 55.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Thu, Jun 27, 2019 at 12:29 PM Paul Brown <feeder.brown@...> wrote:
Sorry, it’s a 30kg Wasi.


Re: Wasi #40 anchor forsale #facebook

Paul Brown
 

Sorry, it’s a 30kg Wasi.


#IMPORTANT #IMPORTANT

 

Due to numerous requests, we have added a new subgroup which is ShareParts. This is a subgroup of Amel Yacht Owners Group. Membership is limited to members of Amel Yacht Owners Group. The purpose of this subgroup is to have a place where Amel yacht owners can post parts wanted or extra parts for sale. We want to ensure that this group does not interfere with parts sales by SAV@.... NO COMMERCIAL LISTINGS.

It is important that when you no longer have something for sale, and/or if you have found the part you are looking for, that you update your Original Topic by either deleting it or by replying to the Original Topic. If this is not done, the subgroup messages will become a meaningless list and we will be forced to delete it.

This is a link to the Message Topics: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/ShareParts/topics
This is an email address that allows you to post a New Topic in SpareParts, even if you have not joined the subgroup: ShareParts@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io

Here are all other SpareParts email addresses you can use:
Best,
 
CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

 


Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements

Giovanni TESTA
 

Hi Thomas,
may I know please which AWLGRIP RAL/code/color and if mono or bi component ?
Your deck after 5 yrs is like new, congratulations !
Many thanks
Giovanni TESTA
sv EUTIKIA
SM2K n 428
https://www.youtube.com/user/eutikia1


Il 27/06/2019 16:52, Thomas Kleman ha scritto:
On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 07:49 AM, Thomas Kleman wrote:
Gary- just my experience but Polytrol doesn't seem to effect anti skid properties. It looks like it should (the deck color pops and it appears wet). Only thing to be careful of with Polytrol is the buildup in the faux line grooves. You need to brush it out well and use thin coats.

Your post brought back some memories for me, painting the lines in 90 degree heat and doing the math for how long a line would it be if it was end to end. I came up with 2/10 of a mile but there's my Poetry/Sanskrit double major plaguing me again.
This is L'ORIENT sm2k 422 with Polytrol treatment of decks and black stripes (prob 5 yrs old in this pic).


 


Wasi #40 anchor forsale #facebook

Paul Brown
 

I have a #40 Wasi stainless steel anchor in excellent condition forsale, it is from my A55 and is surplus to my needs. I am cruising from Sicily to Spain and can deliver it along the way if this is of help. Please reply with offers... PB


Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements

Thomas Kleman
 

On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 07:49 AM, Thomas Kleman wrote:
Gary- just my experience but Polytrol doesn't seem to effect anti skid properties. It looks like it should (the deck color pops and it appears wet). Only thing to be careful of with Polytrol is the buildup in the faux line grooves. You need to brush it out well and use thin coats.

Your post brought back some memories for me, painting the lines in 90 degree heat and doing the math for how long a line would it be if it was end to end. I came up with 2/10 of a mile but there's my Poetry/Sanskrit double major plaguing me again.
This is L'ORIENT sm2k 422 with Polytrol treatment of decks and black stripes (prob 5 yrs old in this pic).


 


Re: Secondary Anchor Suggestion for SM?

Paul Brown
 

I have a Wasi #40 in excellent condition from my A55 forsale if anyone is interested, I’m cruising the western Mediterranean and can deliver along the way if it helps... PB


Re: Fixed Port Lights - Maramu

Arlo
 
Edited

I just pulled the forward starboard port window to reseal and there were about 8 through bolts plus another few dozen screws.  The backside of these bolts are accessible by removing 2 pieces of trim just above and below the window. I used butyl tape to seal and it is works like a champ with the plastic window material. I have used butyl tape for 15 years for sealing hatches, chainplates, portlights, stantions and it has always held up well. Butyl tape has a higher elasticity compared to most of the sealants on the market, makes less of a mess and is easy to clean off if the parts should ever need removing and replacing. 


Re: Toilet Pumps to bilge???

 

Since that saltwater is not shared no anti-siphon needed. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, Jun 26, 2019, 4:29 PM karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
On SM243 the fill pumps for the heads draw water from separate thru-hulls in the “hallways” just inboard of the heads, near the center of the boat.  There are no vent loops for either head.

Kent & Iris
Kristy SM243

On Jun 26, 2019, at 4:22 PM, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:

Paul,

Not having an anti-siphon valve on the anchor wash pump shouldn't be an issue because the hose goes well above the water line so that even when heeled over saltwater should not be able to flow through the hose. And even if it did, it would just be pumped overboard out the front of the boat!

However, there definitely should be anti-siphon valves in each of the toilet water feed lines.  The Amel manual even states that they are there in the section on Toilets. My understanding is that this is because the hoses that run to the toilets are either right at or right below the waterline and they are certainly BELOW the waterline when you are on a starboard tack.  Given that, seawater from the intake could flow into the toilets if there is not at least a loop of line that goes ABOVE the waterline preventing water from flowing from the manifold into the toilet.  Amel uses a full anti-siphon valve and not just a high loop.  See this article for a primer on anti-siphon valves:  https://www.boatus.com/magazine/2018/april/anti-siphon-valves.asp

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Toilet Pumps to bilge???

Duane Siegfri
 

Bill,

Would a product like Salt-Away dissolve the salt build-up, or would vinegar be sufficient?

Thanks,
Duane


Re: Fixed Port Lights - Maramu

christian alby <calbyy@...>
 

I get the 'four ports' now
vocaburay richer 
did replace plexi on previous boat & used Sika 295UV, on primer Sika 209
choice of sealant is important, but procedure to remove existing without damage to structure or bolt holes, & positionning new one is of utmost importance !
On old boat I did edit Lewmar technical guide & Goiot recommendations & read carefully before tackling the job.
Did go hzardly well (with usual hicups with bolts holes & alignments) until completion, & waterproof test.
wishing you success & clear view of sky & sea 

christian - Désirade VIII - Maramu 116 - now in Canet en Roussillon




Le jeudi 27 juin 2019 à 03:45:21 UTC−4, Andy via Groups.Io <allezaubon@...> a écrit :


Hi Christian ,

Thanks for your feedback.

Apologies for the unintended ambiguity.

We are changing the four fixed a acrylic /Perspex windows, two port and starboard in the saloon and two in the aft cabin.

We see the saloon =E2=80=9C windows=E2=80=9D are 8mm thick and the aft cabin=
only 6mm.

We believe they may be original !!

We believe Sikaflex has been used as the sealant.
We intend to reseal using Dow 795 .

Apologies about not attaching the thumbnail. I had some
issues posting it  ;-)

Trust above is helpful by way of clarification.

Fair winds

Andy Croney
SV Paladin
Maramu #75



Stuck top furling

ngtnewington Newington
 

Fixed:
What happened: the lashing between head is sail and top drum failed. The top drum sprang into the black plastic stop at the top of foil and jammed solid.
Could not winch it down.
After sleeping on it. I figured to drop the aluminium foil to bottom of the Bamar, a good 50cm drop. This gave me room to see what was going on. Then on inspection I could see that the Amel arms that thread onto nuts were the culprit. Backed out the arms and prised the nuts free. Then the drum was easy and smooth to drop.

Lessons:
1. Use dyneema for top lashing on all the sails.
2. Maybe fly Genoa very slightly lower down the foil. Leaving say six inches to the black end cap when tensioned.
3. Sleep on it and think....
Amelia AML 54-019
Corfu


Re: Toilet Pumps to bilge???

Paul Osterberg
 

Thank you Marc
Should the antisifone be on the suction side or pressure side, or does it not matter? 
Paul on SY Kerpa SM 259 


Re: Fixed Port Lights - Maramu

Andy Croney
 

Hi Christian ,

Thanks for your feedback.

Apologies for the unintended ambiguity.

We are changing the four fixed a acrylic /Perspex windows, two port and starboard in the saloon and two in the aft cabin.

We see the saloon =E2=80=9C windows=E2=80=9D are 8mm thick and the aft cabin=
only 6mm.

We believe they may be original !!

We believe Sikaflex has been used as the sealant.
We intend to reseal using Dow 795 .

Apologies about not attaching the thumbnail. I had some
issues posting it ;-)

Trust above is helpful by way of clarification.

Fair winds

Andy Croney
SV Paladin
Maramu #75


Re: Toilet Pumps to bilge???

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi duane. Me too

Danny

Sm 299

Ocean pearl

On 27 June 2019 at 04:44 "Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io" <carlylelk@...> wrote:

On Wanderer, when we run one of the toilet pumps, enough of the seawater goes to the bilge to activate the bilge pump (of course the bilge had to be partially full for this to happen, or the seawater pump was run for a longer time).

The seawater lines to the toilets have a vent loop in the engine room that has a tube going into the bilge.  As far as I can see there isn't a mechanical vent there.  So the conclusion I come to is that the seawater lines are clogged.  I haven't heard about this on the forum here so I'm wondering: is this common?

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: Toilet Pumps to bilge???

karkauai
 

On SM243 the fill pumps for the heads draw water from separate thru-hulls in the “hallways” just inboard of the heads, near the center of the boat.  There are no vent loops for either head.

Kent & Iris
Kristy SM243

On Jun 26, 2019, at 4:22 PM, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:

Paul,

Not having an anti-siphon valve on the anchor wash pump shouldn't be an issue because the hose goes well above the water line so that even when heeled over saltwater should not be able to flow through the hose. And even if it did, it would just be pumped overboard out the front of the boat!

However, there definitely should be anti-siphon valves in each of the toilet water feed lines.  The Amel manual even states that they are there in the section on Toilets. My understanding is that this is because the hoses that run to the toilets are either right at or right below the waterline and they are certainly BELOW the waterline when you are on a starboard tack.  Given that, seawater from the intake could flow into the toilets if there is not at least a loop of line that goes ABOVE the waterline preventing water from flowing from the manifold into the toilet.  Amel uses a full anti-siphon valve and not just a high loop.  See this article for a primer on anti-siphon valves:  https://www.boatus.com/magazine/2018/april/anti-siphon-valves.asp

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Anchors

karkauai
 

Only advice I can give about anchoring technique is in soft mud (lots on the Chesapeake).  Let your anchor settle into the mud for a while, then back down on it slowly to give it time to find it’s way into more packed mud deeper down.

I didn’t find the Delta to hold reliably in any conditions when the wind or current changed the direction of pull.  A couple of potential disasters when we dragged and didn’t reset.
After 7 years, my Rocna 40kg nearly always sets the first time and has only dragged twice when fouled on debris.  I just bought an 85lb Mantus to carry as a spare primary as it comes apart and lays flat in the bottom of the bow locker.  I carry two Fortress anchors to use as second anchor in very rare conditions.

I gave the Delta away.

Kent & Iris
Kristy SM243

On Jun 26, 2019, at 3:37 PM, Paul Brown <feeder.brown@...> wrote:

I bought my 55 April 2018 and anchored the majority of the time last season in various bottom conditions using the delta anchor over the wasi as I found the wasi to drag easily in mid and weed and difficult to set well. The delta which is also much lighter the wasi would set very well and usually on the first attempt. I find the wasi to only set well in sand,,, am I doing something wrong I wonder? I’m considering a Rocna or Ultimate as the primary and keep the delta as the secondary, it’s easy to launch from a dingy also.