Date   

Re: Toilet Pumps to bilge???

Mark McGovern
 

Paul,

Not having an anti-siphon valve on the anchor wash pump shouldn't be an issue because the hose goes well above the water line so that even when heeled over saltwater should not be able to flow through the hose. And even if it did, it would just be pumped overboard out the front of the boat!

However, there definitely should be anti-siphon valves in each of the toilet water feed lines.  The Amel manual even states that they are there in the section on Toilets. My understanding is that this is because the hoses that run to the toilets are either right at or right below the waterline and they are certainly BELOW the waterline when you are on a starboard tack.  Given that, seawater from the intake could flow into the toilets if there is not at least a loop of line that goes ABOVE the waterline preventing water from flowing from the manifold into the toilet.  Amel uses a full anti-siphon valve and not just a high loop.  See this article for a primer on anti-siphon valves:  https://www.boatus.com/magazine/2018/april/anti-siphon-valves.asp

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Engine room hatch foam insulation panel

Thomas Kleman
 

Hoping for a good idea here. About once every two years my foam insulation panel starts separating from the hatch. I then go to an autoparts store in whatever country I'm in and buy a can of stray glue and am good for another two years. As it happened again this afternoon I thought I would check to see if a more permanent solution is known to the group.

Thomas Kleman
SV L'ORIENT
SM2K 422
San Andres, Colombia


Re: Anchors

Paul Brown
 

I bought my 55 April 2018 and anchored the majority of the time last season in various bottom conditions using the delta anchor over the wasi as I found the wasi to drag easily in mid and weed and difficult to set well. The delta which is also much lighter the wasi would set very well and usually on the first attempt. I find the wasi to only set well in sand,,, am I doing something wrong I wonder? I’m considering a Rocna or Ultimate as the primary and keep the delta as the secondary, it’s easy to launch from a dingy also.


Re: Toilet Pumps to bilge???

 

The anchor wash pump does not need an anti-siphon vent. 

The anti-siphon vent was installed on the toilet "supply pump" lines in SMs that used "shared saltwater" via the saltwater manifold. The anti-siphon ensured that no water from the toilet would siphon back to the shared saltwater system. I suspect your SM toilet gets its saltwater from something other than the saltwater manifold.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 1:27 PM Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote:
I have no vent on my sea water pump for the toilets. Nor for the anchor wash pump either. Should that be a problem?
Paul on SY Kerpa SM 259 Horta Azores 


Re: Anchors

Dean Gillies
 

Now there’s an interesting thing. I also had trouble with the Wasi and changed for a 40kg Rocna. I left the Delta on the port roller. Maybe I should replace the Delta with the Wasi if it fits beside the Rocna 40. Hmmm!!
Dean
SY Stella
A54-154


Re: Toilet Pumps to bilge???

Paul Osterberg
 

I have no vent on my sea water pump for the toilets. Nor for the anchor wash pump either. Should that be a problem?
Paul on SY Kerpa SM 259 Horta Azores 


Re: Secondary Anchor Suggestion for SM?

karkauai
 

I always use seizing wire so the shackle bolt can’t back out.  Ugh, expensive lesson!

After losing my ROCNA and 300 ft of chain in a serious blow against the tidal current (steep short seas and violent motion), with a 9/16” line securing it to the big cleat, I am now securing it with a strap clamp and backup line.  Before heading out again I’m making a dedicated cable with a pelican-style lamp to snug it up tight.

Kent
Kristy SM243

On Jun 26, 2019, at 1:45 PM, Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io <carlylelk@...> wrote:

I recently lost the 44# Brittany that was on the port bow roller.  It came up missing after a particularly rough night along the coast of the Dominican Republic.

Any suggestions on what to replace it with that will fit with the 30kg St. Steel Bugel?  I'm keeping an eye out for a used 44# Brittany.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

PS:  How did the Brittany get lost?  I had recently unscrewed the bolt (it was looking a bit rusty) to be sure it wasn't rusted solid with the nut and coated it with some corrosion resistant grease.  Then reinstalled it and tightened it.  Apparently there was enough vibration to back the bolt out.  Like I said, it was a rough night.  This is one case where it would have been better not to worry about the corrosion...  I'm pretty sure this was a replacement bolt that wasn't a very high grade of stainless.


Re: Toilet Pumps to bilge???

 

The seawater toilet pump anti-siphon lines can get blocked with salt. It will be very obvious with a buildup of salt at the top. And, of course these anti-siphon lines either drain (if not blocked) into the gray water, or overflow (if blocked into the gray water.

If the gray water level is close to triggering the pump-out of gray water, the amount of saltwater passing into the gray water tank from the anti-siphon system can be enough to trigger the pump switch.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 11:44 AM Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io <carlylelk=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
On Wanderer, when we run one of the toilet pumps, enough of the seawater goes to the bilge to activate the bilge pump (of course the bilge had to be partially full for this to happen, or the seawater pump was run for a longer time).

The seawater lines to the toilets have a vent loop in the engine room that has a tube going into the bilge.  As far as I can see there isn't a mechanical vent there.  So the conclusion I come to is that the seawater lines are clogged.  I haven't heard about this on the forum here so I'm wondering: is this common?

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Jammed top roller Genoa

ngtnewington Newington
 

I am hoping to shed some light on my current problem. I did a short sail today in 10 kn of true wind. The Genoa halyard needed some tension so I cranked the halyard but actually the lashing had perished. After a few seconds, maybe 30 I saw that the sail was coming down. So I quickly tacked with headsail backed and dropped it on deck. I then anchored off Corfu town and found a friendly Frenchman to winch me up the mast. Alas the top furling drum is completely jammed. It went up easily when I cranked it, probably right up maybe off the foil I do not know. Now I am stuck. I tried winching it down. I tried winching it up. Solid.
I really do not want to drop the for-stay unless I have to. Any ideas?
Nick
Amelia AML54-019
anchored off Corfu town


Secondary Anchor Suggestion for SM?

Duane Siegfri
 

I recently lost the 44# Brittany that was on the port bow roller.  It came up missing after a particularly rough night along the coast of the Dominican Republic.

Any suggestions on what to replace it with that will fit with the 30kg St. Steel Bugel?  I'm keeping an eye out for a used 44# Brittany.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

PS:  How did the Brittany get lost?  I had recently unscrewed the bolt (it was looking a bit rusty) to be sure it wasn't rusted solid with the nut and coated it with some corrosion resistant grease.  Then reinstalled it and tightened it.  Apparently there was enough vibration to back the bolt out.  Like I said, it was a rough night.  This is one case where it would have been better not to worry about the corrosion...  I'm pretty sure this was a replacement bolt that wasn't a very high grade of stainless.


Re: Anchors

Barry Connor
 

No Bill,
Sorry, I bent my 33kg Wasi, see “How to straighten a bent boat anchor” on YouTube”, the Wasi bent when I lifted it after it dragged in weed during a 35 - 40 knot blow at night and then snagged in rocks which woke me up. I now have a 40kg Rocna and it really digs in. The 40kg Rocna is the largest I think you can fit on a 54. I was told that the stainless steel was not as strong as the galvanized.
I have the Wasi as a secondary on the Port roller.

Best

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
AMEL 54. #17
Preveza Greece


On Jun 26, 2019, at 18:58, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Wasi, Wasi, Wasi.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 9:09 PM Courtney Gorman via Groups.Io <Itsfun1=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Nick I think you should stick with the Wasi I believe you get a more consistent stick
Cheers
Courtney
Trippin
54 #101
Dominica 🇩🇲
> On Jun 25, 2019, at 9:10 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
>
> I have three anchors on Amelia;
> 1. The original 33kg WASI Bugel supplied by Amel, currently my main anchor.
> 2. A 40kg Delta set up on the port windlass; so my second anchor.
> 3. A large aluminium Fortress that disassembles located in the Lazarette locker as my third.
>
> The question is; should I use the Delta 40kg as my primary rather than the WASI? They would sit better on the bow if the WASI was to port and the Delta to starboard.
> Put another way. So between a 33kg WASI and a 40Kg Delta which will hold better?
> Nick
> Anchored off Corfu town
> Amelia 54-019
>
>
>





Re: Eberspacher 5L diesel heater

Duane Siegfri
 

Mike,

Thanks for the info.  We're in Carriacou headed for Grenada.  I'll keep the Annapolis info.  

Hope all is well with you and Iris!
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Toilet Pumps to bilge???

Duane Siegfri
 

On Wanderer, when we run one of the toilet pumps, enough of the seawater goes to the bilge to activate the bilge pump (of course the bilge had to be partially full for this to happen, or the seawater pump was run for a longer time).

The seawater lines to the toilets have a vent loop in the engine room that has a tube going into the bilge.  As far as I can see there isn't a mechanical vent there.  So the conclusion I come to is that the seawater lines are clogged.  I haven't heard about this on the forum here so I'm wondering: is this common?

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: Anchors

 

Wasi, Wasi, Wasi.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 9:09 PM Courtney Gorman via Groups.Io <Itsfun1=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Nick I think you should stick with the Wasi I believe you get a more consistent stick
Cheers
Courtney
Trippin
54 #101
Dominica 🇩🇲
> On Jun 25, 2019, at 9:10 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
>
> I have three anchors on Amelia;
> 1. The original 33kg WASI Bugel supplied by Amel, currently my main anchor.
> 2. A 40kg Delta set up on the port windlass; so my second anchor.
> 3. A large aluminium Fortress that disassembles located in the Lazarette locker as my third.
>
> The question is; should I use the Delta 40kg as my primary rather than the WASI? They would sit better on the bow if the WASI was to port and the Delta to starboard.
> Put another way. So between a 33kg WASI and a 40Kg Delta which will hold better?
> Nick
> Anchored off Corfu town
> Amelia 54-019
>
>
>





Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements

Thomas Kleman
 

Gary- just my experience but Polytrol doesn't seem to effect anti skid properties. It looks like it should (the deck color pops and it appears wet). Only thing to be careful of with Polytrol is the buildup in the faux line grooves. You need to brush it out well and use thin coats.

Your post brought back some memories for me, painting the lines in 90 degree heat and doing the math for how long a line would it be if it was end to end. I came up with 2/10 of a mile but there's my Poetry/Sanskrit double major plaguing me again.


Re: Rudder Post Conjecture

karkauai
 

Thanks Gary, I’ll do that too.

Kent

On Jun 26, 2019, at 9:31 AM, Gary Wells <gary@...> wrote:

Eric,  thanks for the heads-up on rust bullet.  I ~will~ find some.  I've already primed and painted  with plain Rustoleum and it turned out well.  Putting the hardware back together was not difficult at all.
Inserting the new strips of stuffing is also.pretty easy. They appear to be a bit too long and require some length-wise compression as you feed it into the slot.  I gently tapped around it using the wide end of a center punch (not the point) and then used the big nut to cinch it down into the tube.  Added the second one, did the same and then the third.

Three is definitely the number that fits when new.  No way a fourth one will go in there.

I'm not real.certainnhow tight to cinch it all.down, so it's half-way between "that ought to do.it" and "motorcycle tight".  
This leaves a good portion of the nut's threads exposed; perhaps five turns worth

One item noticed with the nut up so high is that it contacted the lock nut holding the bonding wired.  The nut is bigger than the head of the bolt so push the bolt through from the bottom. Do this ~before~ you cinch the armature into position :). 

Kent, do not fear!!   And, knowing what I know .. find a smallish (Honda style) car jack.  It fits under the long arm of the crank and can put upward pressure to break it free with some (5 lb sledge) light tapping (which was heard throughout the yard) :)

I've used quite a bit of anti-seize in the reassembly and I'm putting a.five-year look-see/cleaning flag on this one. 

.  
Now .. on to C-drive seals and bow thruster stuff!

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
Hot and dry in Maryland. 


Re: Rudder Post Conjecture

Gary Wells
 

Eric,  thanks for the heads-up on rust bullet.  I ~will~ find some.  I've already primed and painted  with plain Rustoleum and it turned out well.  Putting the hardware back together was not difficult at all.
Inserting the new strips of stuffing is also.pretty easy. They appear to be a bit too long and require some length-wise compression as you feed it into the slot.  I gently tapped around it using the wide end of a center punch (not the point) and then used the big nut to cinch it down into the tube.  Added the second one, did the same and then the third.

Three is definitely the number that fits when new.  No way a fourth one will go in there.

I'm not real.certainnhow tight to cinch it all.down, so it's half-way between "that ought to do.it" and "motorcycle tight".  
This leaves a good portion of the nut's threads exposed; perhaps five turns worth

One item noticed with the nut up so high is that it contacted the lock nut holding the bonding wired.  The nut is bigger than the head of the bolt so push the bolt through from the bottom. Do this ~before~ you cinch the armature into position :). 

Kent, do not fear!!   And, knowing what I know .. find a smallish (Honda style) car jack.  It fits under the long arm of the crank and can put upward pressure to break it free with some (5 lb sledge) light tapping (which was heard throughout the yard) :)

I've used quite a bit of anti-seize in the reassembly and I'm putting a.five-year look-see/cleaning flag on this one. 

.  
Now .. on to C-drive seals and bow thruster stuff!

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
Hot and dry in Maryland. 


Re: Rudder Post Conjecture

karkauai
 

Hi Gary,
Are you sure you’re not describing one of my projects?  Not that I wouldn’t expect problems anyway, but forewarned is forearmed.    Guess I should order two sets of stuffing and two sets of nuts and bolts, and gird myself for another 3-day job doing something that looks like it should take an hour or two.

Thanks for the description of what to expect.  Now anything less will be a pleasant surprise.
Kent

Kent & Iris
Kristy SM243

On Jun 25, 2019, at 1:26 PM, Gary Wells <gary@...> wrote:

Hi!

Just went through the exercise of pulling the steering crank from the rudder post as it is time to change then shaft stuffing.  Used the last sixth of a turn a couple of months ago so the big but has nothing else to give if (when) it starts to leak again. 



To my surprise there were not three, not five (as I have read is something you can do with a cool bit of modificariion) but four pieces of stuffing in there.  I'm presuming this was because either; the P.O. used different size stuffing pieces (it's hard to tell because they're all smashed now) or maybe the last time the big nut hit the stop point the P.O. just added another piece to buy some time (which means what? .. could I just have added a fifth one??)
.
At any rate, i'm just going to use the three pieces that Amel sent and see how it goes (but I'm ordering more today :) 

This is the first time I've done this job and I'll go on record as saying "wow! .. what a bear it is to get that crank off" after many years of siting and rust-welding into place.  After compulsory soakings with pbBlaster and AeroKroil and then the tugging, prying and banging I gave up and asked for yard help.  I have a puller, but it's not quite large enough for this job and a new one costs about an hour's worth of yard labor so I let them pull it apart.

After I cleaned (spelled "Angle Grinder) all the rust off and spent some quality time with the Dremel getting to the small spots the crank slipped back on very easily.

But ..  the hardest part so far has been that I purchased all new hardware (nut, bolts, washers lockpin) and one of the 14mm bolts galled a thread about half-way home.

I broke two tools trying to get it undone and finally used the angle grinder to cut the bolt hea off ..  sheesh .. didn't see that coming.

Ah well, should be finished by tomorrow .  Clean-up and de-corroding is the biggest part of the job :)

Will make.sur that the bonding circuit is good too (I just know someone was going to remind me of that :)

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
In the rack.


Re: Rudder Post Conjecture

eric freedman
 

Hi Gary,

I painted The entire assembly with Rust Bullet paint except one side of the vertical portion that rests against the rudder post.

I have removed this “quadrant” a few times and the Rust Bullet is amazing stuff no rust.

I have painted a number of things on board and no rust after application. Used by the us navy.

 

It was recommended to me by my friend Eric Forsyth. An incredible sailor 360,000 miles on a home built boat .

3 x around the world northwest passage and much more. If you wish I would look at his book. It is his 50 year story about sailing. He is still sailing distances at age 86 years old.

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Gary Wells
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2019 1:27 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Rudder Post Conjecture

 

Hi!

Just went through the exercise of pulling the steering crank from the rudder post as it is time to change then shaft stuffing.  Used the last sixth of a turn a couple of months ago so the big but has nothing else to give if (when) it starts to leak again. 



To my surprise there were not three, not five (as I have read is something you can do with a cool bit of modificariion) but four pieces of stuffing in there.  I'm presuming this was because either; the P.O. used different size stuffing pieces (it's hard to tell because they're all smashed now) or maybe the last time the big nut hit the stop point the P.O. just added another piece to buy some time (which means what? .. could I just have added a fifth one??)
.
At any rate, i'm just going to use the three pieces that Amel sent and see how it goes (but I'm ordering more today :) 

This is the first time I've done this job and I'll go on record as saying "wow! .. what a bear it is to get that crank off" after many years of siting and rust-welding into place.  After compulsory soakings with pbBlaster and AeroKroil and then the tugging, prying and banging I gave up and asked for yard help.  I have a puller, but it's not quite large enough for this job and a new one costs about an hour's worth of yard labor so I let them pull it apart.

After I cleaned (spelled "Angle Grinder) all the rust off and spent some quality time with the Dremel getting to the small spots the crank slipped back on very easily.

But ..  the hardest part so far has been that I purchased all new hardware (nut, bolts, washers lockpin) and one of the 14mm bolts galled a thread about half-way home.

I broke two tools trying to get it undone and finally used the angle grinder to cut the bolt hea off ..  sheesh .. didn't see that coming.

Ah well, should be finished by tomorrow .  Clean-up and de-corroding is the biggest part of the job :)

Will make.sur that the bonding circuit is good too (I just know someone was going to remind me of that :)

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
In the rack.


Re: Anchors

Courtney Gorman
 

Hi Nick I think you should stick with the Wasi I believe you get a more consistent stick
Cheers
Courtney
Trippin
54 #101
Dominica 🇩🇲

On Jun 25, 2019, at 9:10 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

I have three anchors on Amelia;
1. The original 33kg WASI Bugel supplied by Amel, currently my main anchor.
2. A 40kg Delta set up on the port windlass; so my second anchor.
3. A large aluminium Fortress that disassembles located in the Lazarette locker as my third.

The question is; should I use the Delta 40kg as my primary rather than the WASI? They would sit better on the bow if the WASI was to port and the Delta to starboard.
Put another way. So between a 33kg WASI and a 40Kg Delta which will hold better?
Nick
Anchored off Corfu town
Amelia 54-019