Another photo. Note the vertical near the stern light. Initially the boatyard continued the diagonal near the upper right of the photo all the way to the stern. As should be obvious, that interferes with lifting a dinghy tight against the davits.

"It's fine having the dinghy at 45 degrees, people do it all the time!", they said.

I kicked and screamed until they changed it.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Another photo. Note the vertical near the stern light. Initially the boatyard continued the diagonal near the upper right of the photo all the way to the stern. As should be obvious, that interferes with lifting a dinghy tight against the davits.

"It's fine having the dinghy at 45 degrees, people do it all the time!", they said.

I kicked and screamed until they changed it.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

I had a similarly favorable experience with them. 
Although it was just for a spare starter motor  that has  yet to be installed. 
Still, fast service and good pricing vs. oem. 

Gary W.
SM209, "Adagio"
Maryland, USA

Yes, the grey ones are the thermal sensor. The idea is to put it in the 24 Volt feed line of the switch that operates the furler so when it becomes too hot the furler will cease operation untill it has cooled down. The problem will be that the feed line of the switch is in the cockpit and does not go anywhere near the Boxtron controller. Only the two wires "behind" the switch are led to the Boxtron. The simplest way to way around this is is to assume that overheating will most likely take place during furling the sail (as opposed to unfurling). In that case you can put the sensor in series with the wire from the cockpit switch that makes the Boxtron activate the counter-clockwise (furling) motion.
Alternative you can run two additional cables between the switch and the Boxtron but that will be a pig to put in.
My solution when I was faced wit this problem was to include an interface box to handle the issue (see: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/message/44275?p=,,,20,0,0,0::relevance,,bamar,20,2,0,29771214,d=5&d=5)
You could also ignore the cable and simply not connect it and make sure you do not overstress the furlers.

Regards,
Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

On 28 Sep 2019, at 20:14, Alexander Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:

I bought the best available Waelder chain 1,5 years ago. Up here at the U.S. east coast she stays nice but in the Caribbean it instantly showed surface rust. Didn't like to see that and was constantly cleaning. A friend on another boat in the Caribbean had his Waelder showing serious pitting after only 4 years. So it really depends where you are using your chain, but Waelder is definitely overselling the quality of their product in warm/salty  waters. I won't buy it again.
Alex 
NO STRESS 
Amel54#15

On 28 Sep 2019, at 19:02, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

I have an A54, but I installed three 320W LG Neon2 panels in parallel on an arch that while it can probably stand on its own, is also attached to the top of the Simpson Davits. I called Simpson and they stated that they can't openly recommend doing what I did because it might deform the tubing on the Davits, making sliding in and out difficult, but off the record it'd probably be OK.

I would not suggest putting the weight of all the panels on the davits alone without additional connections to the stern.

If you'd like, I can take some photos of my setup. It's held in 70 knot winds, so the strength seems sufficient.

Separate controllers would help reduce the effects of shading, for sure. We just went parallel instead. FYI I went for the Victron 150v/35amp model because the literature suggested that the MPPT is good for 1000w systems and mine is rated for 960w. I can attest that my LG panels have hit the 35amp limit on sunny days, so if I'd do it again, I'd upsize the MPPT.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com