Date   

Re: Standing rigging on 54

ngtnewington Newington
 

Not sure exactly where we will be. I am happy to do the job myself thanks.
Nick
Amelia 54-019

On 7 Jun 2019, at 13:14, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Looks like we have a few 54s in the Ionian.

FYI, we are flying Nicky from Malta to Corfu to replace our shrouds on or around June 24. If you feel the timing will work, I can talk to Nicky to schedule other replacements as well.

Respectfully;


Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-454-3148 Fax

On Jun 7, 2019, at 12:19 PM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Thanks guys, it looks like if I order from ACMO then it is a straight swap. So that is what I will do.
I have thought hard about all this and at the end of the day I do not want to have that niggling feeling that my rigging is not up to it on a dark stormy night!
Nick
On 7 Jun 2019, at 11:42, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Hello Nick;

We are currently going though the same process and we have just released the order to ACMO.

If ordered from ACMO, you will receive the entire parts required for the upgrade. This includes a “stronger” pin, as ACMO puts it, the turn buckles and threaded eye. I just again reconfirmed this with ACMO. If you look at your connections at the chain plates, the parts have an ACMO stamp on them.

Therefore according to ACMO, no other parts will be necessary, it is just a matter of removing the existing shrouds and installing new.

I will provide an update if we find anything that contradicts this during the install.

Respectfully;


Mohammad & Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099

On Jun 7, 2019, at 7:27 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:


Further to the news that the Amel 54 should have 12mm aft lowers not 10mm and that the intermediates should be beefed up from 8mm to 10mm. I am now seriously working this out.
On the face of it I can order the replacement wire and fittings from ACMO in France and have it a week later. What worries me is that the pin sizes will increase (I guess)
This should be no problem at the bottom where there is a massive chainplate that I could drill out to accept the bigger pins but at the top at the spreader bases it will be tricky.
Has anyone been there and done this project?
What about sticking to 8mm and 10 mm but upgrading the wire quality to say Dyform? Dyform offers about 30% more strength than standard 1x19?
Any experts out there?
Nick
S/Y Amelia AML54-019
Anchored in Kefalonia enjoying easy living after 2000 mile voyage from Canary Islands.







Dishwasher

Joerg Esdorn
 
Edited

I did not get the dishwasher option but am reconsidering.   It is the Bosch SKR 5102.  Anyone have experience with this dishwasher?  I assume it’s the same on the 54?  I understand you cannot run it over the inverter - shore power or genset only.  Many thanks!!  

Joerg Esdorn
A55 #53
Kincsem


Re: Standing rigging on 54

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Looks like we have a few 54s in the Ionian.

FYI, we are flying Nicky from Malta to Corfu to replace our shrouds on or around June 24. If you feel the timing will work, I can talk to Nicky to schedule other replacements as well.

Respectfully;


Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-454-3148 Fax

On Jun 7, 2019, at 12:19 PM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Thanks guys, it looks like if I order from ACMO then it is a straight swap. So that is what I will do.
I have thought hard about all this and at the end of the day I do not want to have that niggling feeling that my rigging is not up to it on a dark stormy night!
Nick
On 7 Jun 2019, at 11:42, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Hello Nick;

We are currently going though the same process and we have just released the order to ACMO.

If ordered from ACMO, you will receive the entire parts required for the upgrade. This includes a “stronger” pin, as ACMO puts it, the turn buckles and threaded eye. I just again reconfirmed this with ACMO. If you look at your connections at the chain plates, the parts have an ACMO stamp on them.

Therefore according to ACMO, no other parts will be necessary, it is just a matter of removing the existing shrouds and installing new.

I will provide an update if we find anything that contradicts this during the install.

Respectfully;


Mohammad & Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099

On Jun 7, 2019, at 7:27 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:


Further to the news that the Amel 54 should have 12mm aft lowers not 10mm and that the intermediates should be beefed up from 8mm to 10mm. I am now seriously working this out.
On the face of it I can order the replacement wire and fittings from ACMO in France and have it a week later. What worries me is that the pin sizes will increase (I guess)
This should be no problem at the bottom where there is a massive chainplate that I could drill out to accept the bigger pins but at the top at the spreader bases it will be tricky.
Has anyone been there and done this project?
What about sticking to 8mm and 10 mm but upgrading the wire quality to say Dyform? Dyform offers about 30% more strength than standard 1x19?
Any experts out there?
Nick
S/Y Amelia AML54-019
Anchored in Kefalonia enjoying easy living after 2000 mile voyage from Canary Islands.






Re: Standing rigging on 54

tony wells
 

That’s good to know, thanks Nick

Welcome to Greece! I made your trip from the Canaries last year and haven’t left Greece yet! Incidentally, Sami harbour on the east of Kefalonia is currently without harbour master so berthing is free and good water is piped to manholes all along the mole. There’s a small chandler/hardware store in town.

Tony
A54 #102 Balthazar, anchored in Lakka (perhaps Greece’s equivalent to Marigot Bay, St Lucia!) (Paxos, Greece)

On 7 Jun 2019, at 10:30, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Further to my email below, ACMO just sent me an email explaining that they provide a specially made product with the same pin sizes as the old so it is a case of just swapping the stays over.

Kind regards

Nick
Amelia 54-019
On 7 Jun 2019, at 07:26, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:


Further to the news that the Amel 54 should have 12mm aft lowers not 10mm and that the intermediates should be beefed up from 8mm to 10mm. I am now seriously working this out.
On the face of it I can order the replacement wire and fittings from ACMO in France and have it a week later. What worries me is that the pin sizes will increase (I guess)
This should be no problem at the bottom where there is a massive chainplate that I could drill out to accept the bigger pins but at the top at the spreader bases it will be tricky.
Has anyone been there and done this project?
What about sticking to 8mm and 10 mm but upgrading the wire quality to say Dyform? Dyform offers about 30% more strength than standard 1x19?
Any experts out there?
Nick
S/Y Amelia AML54-019
Anchored in Kefalonia enjoying easy living after 2000 mile voyage from Canary Islands.





Re: Standing rigging on 54

ngtnewington Newington
 

Thanks guys, it looks like if I order from ACMO then it is a straight swap. So that is what I will do.
I have thought hard about all this and at the end of the day I do not want to have that niggling feeling that my rigging is not up to it on a dark stormy night!
Nick

On 7 Jun 2019, at 11:42, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Hello Nick;

We are currently going though the same process and we have just released the order to ACMO.

If ordered from ACMO, you will receive the entire parts required for the upgrade. This includes a “stronger” pin, as ACMO puts it, the turn buckles and threaded eye. I just again reconfirmed this with ACMO. If you look at your connections at the chain plates, the parts have an ACMO stamp on them.

Therefore according to ACMO, no other parts will be necessary, it is just a matter of removing the existing shrouds and installing new.

I will provide an update if we find anything that contradicts this during the install.

Respectfully;


Mohammad & Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099

On Jun 7, 2019, at 7:27 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:


Further to the news that the Amel 54 should have 12mm aft lowers not 10mm and that the intermediates should be beefed up from 8mm to 10mm. I am now seriously working this out.
On the face of it I can order the replacement wire and fittings from ACMO in France and have it a week later. What worries me is that the pin sizes will increase (I guess)
This should be no problem at the bottom where there is a massive chainplate that I could drill out to accept the bigger pins but at the top at the spreader bases it will be tricky.
Has anyone been there and done this project?
What about sticking to 8mm and 10 mm but upgrading the wire quality to say Dyform? Dyform offers about 30% more strength than standard 1x19?
Any experts out there?
Nick
S/Y Amelia AML54-019
Anchored in Kefalonia enjoying easy living after 2000 mile voyage from Canary Islands.




Re: Standing rigging on 54

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hello Nick;

We are currently going though the same process and we have just released the order to ACMO.

If ordered from ACMO, you will receive the entire parts required for the upgrade. This includes a “stronger” pin, as ACMO puts it, the turn buckles and threaded eye. I just again reconfirmed this with ACMO. If you look at your connections at the chain plates, the parts have an ACMO stamp on them.

Therefore according to ACMO, no other parts will be necessary, it is just a matter of removing the existing shrouds and installing new.

I will provide an update if we find anything that contradicts this during the install.

Respectfully;


Mohammad & Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099

On Jun 7, 2019, at 7:27 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:


Further to the news that the Amel 54 should have 12mm aft lowers not 10mm and that the intermediates should be beefed up from 8mm to 10mm. I am now seriously working this out.
On the face of it I can order the replacement wire and fittings from ACMO in France and have it a week later. What worries me is that the pin sizes will increase (I guess)
This should be no problem at the bottom where there is a massive chainplate that I could drill out to accept the bigger pins but at the top at the spreader bases it will be tricky.
Has anyone been there and done this project?
What about sticking to 8mm and 10 mm but upgrading the wire quality to say Dyform? Dyform offers about 30% more strength than standard 1x19?
Any experts out there?
Nick
S/Y Amelia AML54-019
Anchored in Kefalonia enjoying easy living after 2000 mile voyage from Canary Islands.



Re: Standing rigging on 54

James Alton
 

Nick,

Not an expert but I know that via many rerigging jobs that with Imperial sized wire end fittings that a range pins sizes will be available for a given wire size. I am not sure but suspect this will be the same with metric wire ends fittings you will be using. For instance Blue Wave lists two pin size options for their terminal eyes for 12mm wire. It would be good to check the strength of your clevis pins since there are a few options here in material and you will probably be using the smaller pin for the 12mm wire. When I rerigged and inspected my then 30 year old ACMO rigging on my Amel the clevis pins were the only parts that showed corrosion so I am giving some consideration to going with Titanium. The Titanium ups the strength quite a bit over stainless and Titanium does not have the corrosion issues that stainless does. My concern being whether this might cause galvanic corrosion in the stainless terminal ends, if anyone has an experience with these pins let me know. I know of a number of experienced sailors that use the Titanium and so far have not heard of any failures due to using this material for pins. I have always been curious about using the Dyform since it is smoother in form so reduces wind resistance a bit and is rated as being stronger but I don’t see it used on many boats.
I rerigged with ACMO since the original rigging seemed to be of such good quality. I like the wire and end fittings on the new rigging but not as happy with the supplied clevis pins which I will be replacing.

Best of luck,

James
SV Sueno, Maramu #220
Arbatax, Italy

On Jun 7, 2019, at 1:26 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:


Further to the news that the Amel 54 should have 12mm aft lowers not 10mm and that the intermediates should be beefed up from 8mm to 10mm. I am now seriously working this out.
On the face of it I can order the replacement wire and fittings from ACMO in France and have it a week later. What worries me is that the pin sizes will increase (I guess)
This should be no problem at the bottom where there is a massive chainplate that I could drill out to accept the bigger pins but at the top at the spreader bases it will be tricky.
Has anyone been there and done this project?
What about sticking to 8mm and 10 mm but upgrading the wire quality to say Dyform? Dyform offers about 30% more strength than standard 1x19?
Any experts out there?
Nick
S/Y Amelia AML54-019
Anchored in Kefalonia enjoying easy living after 2000 mile voyage from Canary Islands.



Re: Standing rigging on 54

ngtnewington Newington
 

Further to my email below, ACMO just sent me an email explaining that they provide a specially made product with the same pin sizes as the old so it is a case of just swapping the stays over.

Kind regards

Nick
Amelia 54-019

On 7 Jun 2019, at 07:26, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:


Further to the news that the Amel 54 should have 12mm aft lowers not 10mm and that the intermediates should be beefed up from 8mm to 10mm. I am now seriously working this out.
On the face of it I can order the replacement wire and fittings from ACMO in France and have it a week later. What worries me is that the pin sizes will increase (I guess)
This should be no problem at the bottom where there is a massive chainplate that I could drill out to accept the bigger pins but at the top at the spreader bases it will be tricky.
Has anyone been there and done this project?
What about sticking to 8mm and 10 mm but upgrading the wire quality to say Dyform? Dyform offers about 30% more strength than standard 1x19?
Any experts out there?
Nick
S/Y Amelia AML54-019
Anchored in Kefalonia enjoying easy living after 2000 mile voyage from Canary Islands.



Standing rigging on 54

ngtnewington Newington
 

Further to the news that the Amel 54 should have 12mm aft lowers not 10mm and that the intermediates should be beefed up from 8mm to 10mm. I am now seriously working this out.
On the face of it I can order the replacement wire and fittings from ACMO in France and have it a week later. What worries me is that the pin sizes will increase (I guess)
This should be no problem at the bottom where there is a massive chainplate that I could drill out to accept the bigger pins but at the top at the spreader bases it will be tricky.
Has anyone been there and done this project?
What about sticking to 8mm and 10 mm but upgrading the wire quality to say Dyform? Dyform offers about 30% more strength than standard 1x19?
Any experts out there?
Nick
S/Y Amelia AML54-019
Anchored in Kefalonia enjoying easy living after 2000 mile voyage from Canary Islands.


Re: Stuffing box drainage path

Gary Wells
 

My bow thruster will not leak to an exit to the bilge.  It will be stopped at the forward head where it must be dealt with manually.  If you have a situation where seawater has a direct path to the the engine room bilge (other than the anchor locker), I would say that it's not original (or I didn't read your statement correctly). ..  

Having a water alarm next to the rudder quadrant is a great idea.  I just have to hoist the bed once a month while we're parked, once a day while we are underway.

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
Maryland, USA




Re: Watermaker

michael winand
 

Thanks for sharing your own methods. I am going to install a valved manifold to allow me to close off different water circuits. Thinking of additional point for the flushing hose.

On Fri, 7 Jun 2019 at 1:47 am, rossirossix4
<rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:
Hi Davi,
Thanks for asking.  We don't flush engine, generator, etc after every use.  When we do flush things in fresh water depends.  For example today we are at Renaissance Marine (very nice, BTW) in Aruba and are here for 6 nights.  After we arrived we flushed out 1)Yanmar, 2)Anchor Wash Pump, 3 and 4)both toilet pumps and circuits-we use fresh water flush when we have dock water and 5)generator was already flushed 6) AC all 3 loops 7) the distribution manifold which is flushed end to end along with the other items and 8) the strainer itself. 

Fresh water can 1)reduce corrosion which is higher for salt water than fresh water 2) reduce galvanic action by minimizing the salt water connection to AC and feed pumps, etc or dissimilar metals 3)minimize and stop--even kill marine growth and 4)help to dissolve deposits that might be forming--RO water in particular is good at this, and 5) reduce rubber hose odor and aging. 

Our Yanmar for example has the following items that are cooled directly by salt water--1)transmission cooler, 2) turbo intercooler, 3) oil cooler 4)coolant loop and 5) raw water pump and impeller and 6)exhaust elbow and exhaust hoses. 

Is it necessary?  Decide for yourself.  I do know that Amel owners  use Barnacle Buster and other harsh products because of overheating problems, there have been leaks from the oil cooler into salt water necessitating a oil cooler replacement, generator impellers fail and their salt water pump faces have to be sanded, end caps for generator heat exchangers corrode, feed pumps have needed rebuilds, and water manifolds have corroded.  Also, owners have needed to clear marine growth from the manifold and the strainer.  A lot of this stuff is shown in Bill's manual.  In fact if you have any doubts about the impact of salt water just thumb through that manual.

Like other owners with solar and those with wind chargers, or both....we only run the generator infrequently, usually to make water and we have about 5 days to a week of time on average between runs--but at anchorages we have gone as long as 6 weeks before needing to run our generator.   We have enough solar to run our HW heater 30 minutes and still top off our batteries to float.  We usually run our clothes washer while making water but it can also be powered by our inverter underway when we run our engine.  Just de-anchoring and departing an anchorage can require a 30 minute engine run and the fast cycle on our Thompson takes 30 minutes.  We use the standard yellow Xantrex 1800 watt pure sine inverter.

Not trying to brag about our solar capacity, but pointing out that many owners can have long periods of non-use of the generator when anchoring, and of course at a marina.

Procedure--Flushing systems with fresh water is very quick and easy to do.  It sounds involved when describing or discussing it but it is super-simple and quick.  We just close the ball valve inlet for the strainer, open the cover (this is done anyway to check strainer after a trip or generator use) start the device and use a hose or jug or both if your hose can't keep up. .  If you want to make sure you have removed most salt water from the strainer and inlet you can pull fresh water through the toilets or anchor wash before starting and flushing the generator.  Usually we have enough jug water (we have 3-8 litre jugs) to do the entire process.  Good shore pressure water lets you do it with just hose alone....at anchor you can use a combo of cockpit shower hose and jugs but usually we just pour water into the top of the strainer using a jug....easy to keep up and to avoid over filling.  Flushing the generator is a single person operation.  Flushing the engine, toilets, AC and anchor wash is best done by people.

I am sure that it can be done safely, but IMHO there are some risks to plumbing-in a fixture--pressurized water can be forced through the salt water cooling path into the lift mufflers which will fill and then water will climb to to the top of the exhaust loop.  Because our exhaust loops are up high, higher than the exhaust elbows of our generators and diesels, there is a risk of backflooding those.  I'm not saying that a plumbed in approach is wrong, but I would pay attention to design and very close attention to operation--we just use the open strainer top method. It is also possible to supply the water from the 3 way flush valve for your watermaker but we just use hose and/or jugs.

A final note, if you are needing to replace an impeller or do any other work on a salt water circuit, run fresh water through it first.  The water you spill over other things in your engine room will be fresh rather than salt.

Bob and Suzanne, SM KAIMI
Aruba


Re: ONAN part list

Mark Erdos
 

Alex,

 

It is in the FILES section under Onan: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/files/Onan%20Genset%20Information/Onam%20Parts%20Catalog%20for%20MDKAL%20%28Detailed%29.pdf

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alex Ramseyer
Sent: Thursday, June 6, 2019 11:51 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] ONAN part list

 

Hi all,
I've seen a ONAN part list on this forum very recently, but for some reason can't find it with the search function.
Anyone willing to share that again?
Thanks a lot,
Alex
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54/no15


ONAN part list

Alexander Ramseyer
 

Hi all,
I've seen a ONAN part list on this forum very recently, but for some reason can't find it with the search function.
Anyone willing to share that again?
Thanks a lot,
Alex
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54/no15


Re: Watermaker

rossirossix4
 

Hi Davi,
Thanks for asking.  We don't flush engine, generator, etc after every use.  When we do flush things in fresh water depends.  For example today we are at Renaissance Marine (very nice, BTW) in Aruba and are here for 6 nights.  After we arrived we flushed out 1)Yanmar, 2)Anchor Wash Pump, 3 and 4)both toilet pumps and circuits-we use fresh water flush when we have dock water and 5)generator was already flushed 6) AC all 3 loops 7) the distribution manifold which is flushed end to end along with the other items and 8) the strainer itself. 

Fresh water can 1)reduce corrosion which is higher for salt water than fresh water 2) reduce galvanic action by minimizing the salt water connection to AC and feed pumps, etc or dissimilar metals 3)minimize and stop--even kill marine growth and 4)help to dissolve deposits that might be forming--RO water in particular is good at this, and 5) reduce rubber hose odor and aging. 

Our Yanmar for example has the following items that are cooled directly by salt water--1)transmission cooler, 2) turbo intercooler, 3) oil cooler 4)coolant loop and 5) raw water pump and impeller and 6)exhaust elbow and exhaust hoses. 

Is it necessary?  Decide for yourself.  I do know that Amel owners  use Barnacle Buster and other harsh products because of overheating problems, there have been leaks from the oil cooler into salt water necessitating a oil cooler replacement, generator impellers fail and their salt water pump faces have to be sanded, end caps for generator heat exchangers corrode, feed pumps have needed rebuilds, and water manifolds have corroded.  Also, owners have needed to clear marine growth from the manifold and the strainer.  A lot of this stuff is shown in Bill's manual.  In fact if you have any doubts about the impact of salt water just thumb through that manual.

Like other owners with solar and those with wind chargers, or both....we only run the generator infrequently, usually to make water and we have about 5 days to a week of time on average between runs--but at anchorages we have gone as long as 6 weeks before needing to run our generator.   We have enough solar to run our HW heater 30 minutes and still top off our batteries to float.  We usually run our clothes washer while making water but it can also be powered by our inverter underway when we run our engine.  Just de-anchoring and departing an anchorage can require a 30 minute engine run and the fast cycle on our Thompson takes 30 minutes.  We use the standard yellow Xantrex 1800 watt pure sine inverter.

Not trying to brag about our solar capacity, but pointing out that many owners can have long periods of non-use of the generator when anchoring, and of course at a marina.

Procedure--Flushing systems with fresh water is very quick and easy to do.  It sounds involved when describing or discussing it but it is super-simple and quick.  We just close the ball valve inlet for the strainer, open the cover (this is done anyway to check strainer after a trip or generator use) start the device and use a hose or jug or both if your hose can't keep up. .  If you want to make sure you have removed most salt water from the strainer and inlet you can pull fresh water through the toilets or anchor wash before starting and flushing the generator.  Usually we have enough jug water (we have 3-8 litre jugs) to do the entire process.  Good shore pressure water lets you do it with just hose alone....at anchor you can use a combo of cockpit shower hose and jugs but usually we just pour water into the top of the strainer using a jug....easy to keep up and to avoid over filling.  Flushing the generator is a single person operation.  Flushing the engine, toilets, AC and anchor wash is best done by people.

I am sure that it can be done safely, but IMHO there are some risks to plumbing-in a fixture--pressurized water can be forced through the salt water cooling path into the lift mufflers which will fill and then water will climb to to the top of the exhaust loop.  Because our exhaust loops are up high, higher than the exhaust elbows of our generators and diesels, there is a risk of backflooding those.  I'm not saying that a plumbed in approach is wrong, but I would pay attention to design and very close attention to operation--we just use the open strainer top method. It is also possible to supply the water from the 3 way flush valve for your watermaker but we just use hose and/or jugs.

A final note, if you are needing to replace an impeller or do any other work on a salt water circuit, run fresh water through it first.  The water you spill over other things in your engine room will be fresh rather than salt.

Bob and Suzanne, SM KAIMI
Aruba


Re: Salon Light Fixtures

Alan Grayson
 

Hey Paul, if you do manage to order some small quantity I wouldn't mind an order of 4 as I have 2 lights that are out. The rockers are broken so I'd like 4 of the rockers and 4 switches just in case.
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai  SM 406
Hampton, Virginia
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Paul Stascavage via Groups.Io <pstas2003@...>
Sent: Thursday, 6 June 2019 1:08:35 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Salon Light Fixtures
 
Bill and Mark.

Thanks very much for the information and taking the time.

All the Best,

Paul Stascavage
S/V Rita Kathryn  SM #466

RitaKathryn.com

Currently Cruising Bahamas





Re: Salon Light Fixtures

Paul Stascavage
 

Bill and Mark.

Thanks very much for the information and taking the time.

All the Best,

Paul Stascavage
S/V Rita Kathryn SM #466

RitaKathryn.com

Currently Cruising Bahamas


Re: electrical motor overhaul - Dessalator

 

You should be fine if it is either the 24VDC or the 230VAC motor. Bearings are metric worldwide. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, Jun 5, 2019, 6:30 PM Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:
My 24V Duo D100 watermaker  motor needs an overhaul.  I'm currently in the U.S. and my question is, do I have to  expect difficulties if it needs parts, given this is a European product? Can I go to any electrical motor shop to get the job done? Thanks for your advice.
Alex
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54 #15
soon in the Chesapeake 


Re: Watermaker

Alan Leslie
 

Once the watermarked is running in the green zone and producing water, if you back the pressure off, open the tap and then increase the pressure, water will come out of the tap. Turn the tap off and the watermarker runs normally.  We do this for water sample testing with a hand held tds meter 
Cheers 
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Microwave - general comments

Davi Rozgonyi
 

Just as a semi-random aside, when the microwave that came with Wake finally gave up the ghost, we replaced it with several nice deep baskets for various veggies and sauces. We realized we always cooked pretty much the amount needed, and if in desperate times, reheating in a pot or some small, thin-walled metal tiffins in the oven actually worked fast and great. Super nice to have the extra storage space...


Re: Microwave - general comments

Stefano Biffi
 

Thanks David, I’ll ck in internet what’s available. I hope to find same size for the attachment

Stefano
N’EVEREST Super Maramu 185
Olbia Sardinia Italy

Il giorno 5 giu 2019, alle ore 09:54, David Vogel <david.vogel@...> ha scritto:




Greetings Stefano,

When we ‘updated’ the unit on-board when we purchased, we replaced it with an LG brand microwave with fan-forced resistive heater, but the microwave part of it was not able to run on the inverter. And it was unwise to use the conventional / fan-forced oven side of things, because the clearance around the unit were not big enough to provide adequate airflow, and the woodwork on the right-hand-side of the unit (plus behind), got uncomfortably hot. So we never used it in conventional/fan-forced mode. It was a waste of money to pay for the extra functionality. And then we accidentally fried it when we ran it for too long on 60Hz shore-power – fine for 60 seconds for coffee, but not 12 minutes for rice.

We reverted to a ‘basic’ microwave-only unit from Panasonic, which as it’s own internal inverter, and it works fine on the boat’s inverter. Model: NN-ST651W, although we would have preferred the NN-ST651B (B for black) model , which is what we thought we’d ordered.

David&Leanne
Perigee, SM#396, Panama

On 3/6/19, 5:14 am, "Stefano Biffi" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io on behalf of cptbiffi@...> wrote:

Dear all, after 20 years my microwave ARTHUR MARTIN ELECTROLUX MG2012 gave up. Thanks to excellent service I need to find a new one. Any suggestion for a quality model available in Europe?
Ciao

Stefano
N’EVEREST Super Maramu 185
Italy