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Re: AMEL 55 -2012 — Replacing CLIMA aircon unit systems with a schiller central unit
I had too CLIMA units that were noisey which was only the fan unit vibrating and rattling, I used some gentle persuading to some areas of the frame which stopped the issue, they all run acceptably quiet now
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Regards Paul - Fortuna II A55/17
On 11 Sep 2019, at 11:19 pm, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
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Re: Marina ZZ bilge pump maintenance kit
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi, in the absence of a kit to hand I made copies of the flap valves out of thick insertion rubber. This a fibre reinforced rubber sheet. I found the replacements tended to take a curve and not seal well. I got about 5 years out of the ones I made. I have just installed a new diaphragm I made out of a suitable thickness insertion rubber sheet. I punched the centre hole, put it on the shaft, closed the pump on to it, held it there while I drilled the holes. Then bolted it up and trimmed around to outer size. Working well. I made a second while I was at it to put in spares. I have been carrying the insertion rubber sheet as spare for some years. If I get premature failure (which I doubt) Ill buy the replacement I could have bought one first up but I enjoy the process. Cruising again at last. At Volivoli, Viti Vevu Fiji. Had two magnificent dives with Wananuva dive this morning. Wow. Danny SM299 Ocean pearl Regards Danny
On 12 September 2019 at 07:55 Roque <ediroque@...> wrote:
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Re: AMEL 55 -2012 — Replacing CLIMA aircon unit systems with a schiller central unit
Jose, It is at least a very big job, and possibly almost impossible job. The size of the remote chiller blower unit is smaller than a typical drop-in Climma Compact unit, and the saltwater condenser plumbing throughout the 55 does not exist. It is only in the engine room. I recommend that you exhaust other means of sound reduction. I have been on several 55s and I did not notice loud sounds...maybe something is wrong. I hope this helps. Best, CW Bill Rouse 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Wed, Sep 11, 2019 at 4:13 PM Jose Alegria <Josealegr@...> wrote:
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AMEL 55 -2012 — Replacing CLIMA aircon unit systems with a schiller central unit
Jose Alegria
The CLIMA® unit systems of my Amell 55 - 2012 are inefficient and very noisy.
Someone in the group has experience with replacing to a central schiller system. All imputes are welcome
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Re: Marina ZZ bilge pump maintenance kit
Alan Grayson
Perfect, thank you
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Alan From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Roque <ediroque@...>
Sent: Wednesday, 11 September 2019 7:55:41 PM To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io> Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Marina ZZ bilge pump maintenance kit Alan
I recently bought from Amel. The rubber valve is a reinforced new version ( see pic)
2 [03219] CLAPET ASPIRATION POMPE HENDERSON 72621/ Rubber valve for electric bilge pump E$17,42 each 34,84 plus VAT Rgds
Roque
Attika A54 117
Paraty
Em qua, 11 de set de 2019 às 16:46, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> escreveu:
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Re: Marina ZZ bilge pump maintenance kit
Roque
Alan I recently bought from Amel. The rubber valve is a reinforced new version ( see pic) 2 [03219] CLAPET ASPIRATION POMPE HENDERSON 72621/ Rubber valve for electric bilge pump E$17,42 each 34,84 plus VAT Rgds Roque Attika A54 117 Paraty Em qua, 11 de set de 2019 às 16:46, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> escreveu:
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Re: Marina ZZ bilge pump maintenance kit
Amel - sav@... recently had them for the Marina ZZ TF Marine makes an identical pump. It is either number TM-50 or TM-70...not sure. I cannot tell you where to find TF Marine spares, except at Amel...Amel replaced the reya pump with TF Marine. Best, CW Bill Rouse 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Wed, Sep 11, 2019 at 2:33 PM Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote: Hi All, Does anyone know where to get the rebuild kits for the Reya Marina ZZ bilge pump. I got on the Reya website but if my translation is right they do not sell to individuals and a google search under their part numbers has not turned up any suppliers.
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Marina ZZ bilge pump maintenance kit
Alan Grayson
Hi All, Does anyone know where to get the rebuild kits for the Reya Marina ZZ bilge pump. I got on the Reya website but if my translation is right they do not sell to individuals and a google search under their part numbers has not turned up any suppliers.
Regards Alan Grayson SM 406 Ora Pai St Michaels, MD
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Cleaning your Amel
Joerg Esdorn
i received the attached from Amel. I cannot overstate how great the Wichinox stainless cleaner works - I’ve tried most every product on the market and this one is So MUCH easier because it combines a chemical „passivating“ action with the Polishing. I’m lacking long term experience with it, though. I also like the Gel Gloss cleaner/wax - very easy to use on interior plastic surfaces and stainless. I hope this helps.
Joerg Esdorn A55 #53 Kincsem currently in Sevilla
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24v alternator deflection idler pulley
Does anyone with this set up know or could measure for me?? PS the belts shown in this photo are not correct, they are 16.8mm X 13mm and slightly too v’d. Also I have found that the toothed belts are not happy deflecting as above and that the correct ones are Gates 6952 or Optibelt 5L 520 17mm X 9.5mm and outside length of 1321mm with kevlar cord. Kind regards Nick S/Y Amelia moored in Kefalonia AML 54-019
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Re: Alternator regulation Amel 54
svperegrinus@yahoo.com
Maybe your Alpha Pro manual can throw light into the subject? We have an Alpha Pro 2 installed since 2013. Its start time is user-programmable from 0 to 60 seconds. You can also set it so it does not start charging at low RPM. Were these not options on Alpha Pro 1? If these software options were not available, it would make sense for Pochon or for Amel to have done something via hardware.
sv Peregrinus
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Re: Converting my Amel 54 to lithium batteries: what I did, what I like and what I don't like (after one year of full time live aboard use)
svperegrinus@yahoo.com
With regard to
Yes, this is a risk. One way to reduce the risk is to have a MasterShunt in the battery box. This is what we did. When a MasterShunt is present on the MasterBus, the Alpha Pro regulator looks to get its battery charge info from the MasterShunt. Since the MasterShunt is installed in a vibration-free zone, and adjacent to the batteries, the chances of a damaged or loose wire are minimal. A secondary way I manage this risk is by feeding a small B&G chart plotter we have on deck with 24V. This Zeus2 chart plotter is set to display its VSUPPLY on its databar at all times. After several years cruising, I've gotten quite used to peeking at that little square from time to time for the current voltage. A tertiary way is to have a voltage monitor on at all times (an EasyView 5, in our case). We have it highly visible from the companionway; it never sleeps. We've never yet had an over-voltage event, so those cautions look unnecessary. May it be so always! Cheers,
sv Peregrinus
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Re: Aqua Signal Series 44 LED port/starboard bow nav lights
Ryan Meador
Tom, The description on the website is wrong. The Series 44 is the LED successor to the Series 40, and almost exactly the same size and shape. It is side-mount. I chose it specifically because it is almost the same, though as I mentioned above, the mounting wasn't quite as easy as I was led to believe. Still, it was a minor project as boat projects go. Dan, I replaced all 3 of ours. Of the old ones, the starboard was non-functional (likely wiring issue caused by Amel Martinique...), the port worked but the bulb was held in only by tape, and the stern's lens had crazed so it was quite dim. They all needed it. I've been quite happy with the new ones this summer. Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration Boston, MA, USA
On Sat, Sep 7, 2019 at 3:01 PM Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:
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Re: C-Drive
Here are some pictures of the C-Drive with the GRP fairing removed around the gear box cover to allow unscrewing the bolts and removing the cover which then lets you slide out the entire prop shaft.
Of note is that the oil is totally contained in the metal housing. The GRP outside is solely for structural support, positioning and shape. An oil leak then, is definitely going to be from a seal, be it the rotary shaft seals, the wearing-out-bearing's inner O-ring, the drain plug seals or - unlikely, if it's never been removed - the gear box cover I've removed in the pictures. I suppose an oil leak from one of the seals could drip into a crack in the fairing, if there was one, and look like it's the fairing leaking. Also of note is the puddle of "milky" oil right next to the shaft and bearings which are in pristine condition. The oil had been milky for about 9 months before I did this work and it clearly did not cause any rust to form. That's likely because the mixture becomes totally emulsified by the gears. Out of curiosity I let it stand for days and there was no water separation, just like the oil in homogenized real milk. I think that suggests there's some breathing room on the timing of oil changes even if your's becomes milky. Hope this is helpful. Craig SN68 Sangaris
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Alternator regulation Amel 54
Dear forum,
I'm in the process of extending the charging system for out batteries as preparation for Solar panels and ultimately a nice set of Lithium batteries. Currently I'm looking at the grey box that sits at the rear wall of the engine room, above the Volvo engine (see attachment). In this box there is an (Alpha Pro) alternator regulator for the 110A/24 Volt alternator, two relays and a bridge rectifier. It must have something to do with the activation of the 24V charging circuit but there are numerous 12 Volt wires as well. Before re-inventing the wheel, did anyone already reverse-engineered this box? I talked to Bill Rouse about this thing and he is guessing it has something to do with the excitement of the field-wires in one of the alternators. I was also thinking it has to do with delaying the 24 Volt charging circuit until the engine is running properly as the 24V alternator creates substantial drag, even at idle. What mystifies me most is the rectifier. Are they using a part of the 12 Volt Alternator to sense the state of the engine? Thanks for your insights Arno Luijten SV Luna, A54,121
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Re: Annapolis Boat Show
Patrick McAneny
Kent, Too bad Iris can't make it ,but will see you there. I will make reservations ,if they take it for 6:30 ,looks like eight now ,I will wait to later this week to see if anyone else wants to join us.
Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message-----
From: karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai@...> To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io> Sent: Sun, Sep 8, 2019 7:11 pm Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Annapolis Boat Show I will be there, too. Iris is working a special event and can’t come.
Looking forward to seeing everyone.
Kent Robertson
Sounds good, Pat. Magnia Friday night and you had put 6:30 on the table.
Seems a number of us will be on Back Creek so let’s see if there is interest in dinner at Davis’ on Thursday evening.
Mike
Aletes SM#240
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, September 8, 2019 7:47 AM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Annapolis Boat Show Mike, Assuming everyone will be at the show, Mangia's is very convenient , right across the street from the show,a two minute walk. Its also a very nice place with great food , it also would not require people to somehow travel to Back Creek as the show is letting out.
Hope to see ya there,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Ondra via Groups.Io <mdondra@...> To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io> Sent: Sat, Sep 7, 2019 5:50 pm Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Annapolis Boat Show Hi Pat. Tom and I hope to be there Thursday and Friday. A nice dinner place on Back Creek would be Davis’s Pub which a block from Mears Marina. May avoid some of the downtown hubbub. Rustic, good food and popular with the locals even during the week so reservations may be appropriate if they do them. Maybe both Thursday and Friday night Especially if Friday doesn’t work for some. Just a thought.
Mike Aletes SM240
On Sep 7, 2019, at 6:55 AM, Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32@...> wrote:
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Re: Annapolis Boat Show
I will be there, too. Iris is working a special event and can’t come.
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On Sep 8, 2019, at 8:41 AM, Mike Ondra via Groups.Io <mdondra@...> wrote:
Sounds good, Pat. Magnia Friday night and you had put 6:30 on the table. Seems a number of us will be on Back Creek so let’s see if there is interest in dinner at Davis’ on Thursday evening. Mike Aletes SM#240
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io
Mike, Assuming everyone will be at the show, Mangia's is very convenient , right across the street from the show,a two minute walk. Its also a very nice place with great food , it also would not require people to somehow travel to Back Creek as the show is letting out. Hope to see ya there, Pat SM Shenanigans -----Original Message----- Hi Pat. Tom and I hope to be there Thursday and Friday. A nice dinner place on Back Creek would be Davis’s Pub which a block from Mears Marina. May avoid some of the downtown hubbub. Rustic, good food and popular with the locals even during the week so reservations may be appropriate if they do them. Maybe both Thursday and Friday night Especially if Friday doesn’t work for some. Just a thought. Aletes SM240
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Re: C-Drive vs Linecutter
John Clark
Tim, I agree with Bill. Not sure of the core foundational construction of the c-drive but I would bet a dollar that for that drain port the seal is the o-ring. I would replace the o-ring and liberally goop the nut with sealant. The most likely source of water in the oil is the shaft seals.... especially if they are old. I change mine every haul out(2-3 years) as the previous owners coached me to do and have not had any issues. It is fairly simple to do just be patient, clean the area and don't force anything. I used the heavy weight oil last time with no problems. My SM is an early model but has the late model c-drive (and TMD-22) thanks to previous owner repower at La Rochelle in 2002....so it should be the same as yours. Regards,. John SV Annie SM37 still floating in Brunswick GA
On Thu, Sep 5, 2019, 10:41 PM Tim Melbourne <tim@...> wrote: Here's a related problem- either a crack or deep scratch along the surface that seats the V-plug O-ring (see attached photo).
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Re: C-Drive vs Linecutter
Thanks Bill, 80W90 it will be.
I was intending to use Silicon grease on both the O ring and the lip seals (since they contain rubber). Are you suggesting using some other waterproof grease on the lip seals? Most of the waterproof grease products I’ve seen appear to be either Lithium based, which isn’t good for rubber, or have unspecified base material (probably oil based, again not good for rubber). Best regards Dean SY Stella A54-154
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Re: C-Drive vs Linecutter
Dean, A few years ago Amel changed the spec for all C-Drives to 80-90 gear oil. I always used waterproof grease on the lip seals, but always used silicone grease on any O ring. A crop-dusting helicopter pilot once told me that O ring failure is a very important issue with helicopters and he and his friends insisted on Trident Silicone Grease, only found in dive shops and also on Amazon. Best, CW Bill Rouse 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Sun, Sep 8, 2019 at 3:33 PM SY STELLA <stella@...> wrote: Hi All,
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