Date   

Re: The two "sticks" on the genoa top swivel

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Mike,

this week I fitted a new "pencil". I thought I would have to open up one or other of the ends of the track to get it in. It was too tight to enter where the track widens for the sail entry. I had looked at it and discarded the idea of getting it in there. Paul Smith (known to his friends as Buddha) of NZ Yacht Services Opua looked at the problem for me. He was fiddling with it in that widened slot area and agreed it was too tight. Then when my back was turned he gave it a light sharp blow with an alloy hammer. Bingo. Done. Well done Paul, saved potentially hours of work. I mention this as an advisory to the many I am sure need to do this. Then it was a simple matter with the swivel down to remove the tongue and re enter it into the pencil. I believe many will find the tongue is worn through and needs replacing so it would be wise to have both on hand when the job is undertaken. Amel have both parts available.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl. 

On 23 May 2019 at 04:34 SV Trilogy <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Thank you, Danny! We will definitely take a close look at the swivel regarding the tongue and nylon pencil. We very much appreciate the specialty Amel knowledge here!

Cheers,
Mike & Hannah
SV Trilogy, SM#23
Panama

On Sun, May 19, 2019 at 2:31 PM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS < simms@...> wrote:

Hi Mike,

a while back I posted a photo of a tongue that goes through the inner of the swivel and into the slot in the foil. This locates the center and prevents the scratching you mention. This tongue often wears through. A number of SM owners have found this. There is one important feature, which if missing allows this wear to occur. This is a nylon "pencil" that sits in the foil with a mating slot in it for this tongue. I believe this "pencil" is often lost when non Amel riggers are doing work. The tongue is secured by two grub screws easily accessed. I suggest you check for the tongue and the nylon pencil. I am picking you will find both missing.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 20 May 2019 at 03:14 SV Trilogy <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Thanks everyone for the informative responses on this topic. We're having a new set of horns fabricated and plan to cover them with some hose material. Anything one can do to reduce halyard wraps, cuts, jams, etc. is certainly worthwhile.

On a side note, while up at the masthead I noticed the foil/extrusion was heavily scratched around it's circumference for several inches right where the top swivel would sit. Perhaps there's an issue with our top swivel and it should be taken apart and serviced? Although while at deck level it spins easily and sounds very smooth. Or maybe the threads on the one horn we had up there were too long and made contact with the foil while furling? Just wondering if anyone has ever seen anything similar on their boat. Sorry no photo at the moment but I'll try and get one.

Cheers,
Mike & Hannah
SV Trilogy, SM#23
Panama


On Mon, 13 May 2019, 08:05 Gary Wells, < gary@...> wrote:
A short piece of fuel line and some contact cement make good "caps" for those 'horns'.
Having experienced a halyard wrap up there once, I wouldn't consider running without them.
If you are doing regular maintenance on the swivel then it's far less likely the horns would touch the mast, but if the swivel jams even slightly the horns are the best defense against getting the halyard wrapped and broken at the masthead.  
Can't really explain how I discovered this.  :)

Gary W.
SM 209, "Adagio"
Beaufort, NC USA

 

 

 

 



--
Mike & Hannah
SVTrilogy


Re: Genoa Fair Leads

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Ken, Loved the video. However NSR did not need to cut the track. Had they taken the screws out of the stanchion just forward of the track end they could have easily pushed it sideways to allow the car to be removed. I share this information for others who may need to do this.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

On 29 May 2019 at 07:10 Ken Powers SV Aquarius <@KenPowers> wrote:


Hello,

I had to do this, and filmed it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_XB5qfptqQ

Ken Powers
Aquarius SM2K #262


On 5/25/19, Capt. Steve Bode <@SVIntention> wrote:
Hey, Group.

What's the latest best answer on replacing the Genoa Fair Leads? My springs
are broken, one wheel is chipped. Tried taking it apart, but can't figure
out how to get the pin out of the center once the eye bolts are removed. Is
that center bar screwed in? At $750 a piece online, I'm not jazzed about
replacing the whole car.
Replacement car without extra hardware needed to adapt to Amel lead system:
https://allpa-marine.com/antal-aluminum-stainless-steel-genua-maxi-car-40x8-with-sliding-inserts-172x60x166mm-lxwxh-weight-1-94kg-swl-safe-working-load-4800kg.html

Tags: Genoa Fair Lead, Genoa Track, Jib Car Lead, Jib fairlead, Genoa
Fairlead, Foresail Track


*Steve Bode, Captain of Sailing Vessel Intention*
Currently Drydocked at ANT Yat Servis
Bodrum Marina Teknik Servisler
Neyzen Tevfik Cad. No. 5
48400 Bodrum, Mulga, Turkiye

Amel Super Maramu #117 (1994)
svIntention.com <http://svintention.com/> Facebook.com/svIntention
<http://facebook.com/svIntention> YouTube.com/SailingVesselIntention
<http://youtube.com/SailingVesselIntention>
+1 415-710-6659 voice/text/whatsapp





Amel 54 Standing Rigging and changes to the Mainmast Lower and Intermediate Shrouds

 

Amel 54 owners,

Many of you are considering new standing rigging.
 
It has come to my attention that sometime between 2009 and 2010 Amel installed larger size Mainmast Lower and Intermediate Shrouds on Amel 54s. I am not sure at which hull number the change took place, but I know that the smaller shrouds were still being used from the first Amel 54 to hull 117 (2009); and I know that the larger shrouds were installed on hull 162 (2010). Between these two hull numbers, Amel increased the wire size, first on the Lower and later on both the Lower and Intermediate shrouds. 
 
   Amel 54 Mainmast Shrouds latest information (French):
   Top Shroud (Galhaubans) 12mm (no change)
   Intermediate Shroud (Inters) 10mm (changed from 8mm)
   Lower Shroud (Bas Haubans AR) 12mm (changed from 10mm)
 
ACMO, Amel's OEM standing rigging supplier, currently ships the larger Lower and Intermediate shrouds when they receive orders for either these shrouds separately, or a complete standing rigging kit. If you have already installed new rigging and you or your rigger ordered the rigging from ACMO, you are likely fine. If the rigging was not made by ACMO, chances are your new wire is the same size as the wire you had. This may be a problem for you.

Obviously, you will need to inform any rigger you use of this change. This week I have informed several riggers that I regularly contact, 

As with some information I share with the Amel Yacht Owners Group, my information is not necessarily officially from Amel. I do not speak for Amel. This is the case with this Amel 54 rigging wire size change. Because some of you are currently in the process of changing rigging, I am posting what I know today. If I learn more about this subject, I will update you here.
 
Best,
 
Bill Rouse
Yacht School  
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970


Re: Vetus Flexi coupling

Paul Osterberg
 

Might be, no vibration though, I guess the nylock have been on and off a few times and the locking capability get reduced. time to replace the nuts maybe
Paul


Re: Furling motor brushes

 

I thought the brush was slightly smaller than the channel.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, May 29, 2019, 3:07 PM Kelly Ran <naryllek@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

I'm not quite sure what you mean -- the Eurton brushes are larger than the ones that Amel has in stock. The Eurton brushes fit very well in the keyway...it's a tight fit, and they still go in smoothly. I don't think jamming will be an issue, if that was your concern.

We will report back after a few months with how the brushes held up.

Best,
kelly + ryan
SM233 Iteration
Boston

On Wed, May 29, 2019 at 2:32 PM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Dave and Shelley,

There are at least 5-6 different Mainmast furling and outhaul motors tat have been used by Amel over the years. Additionally there are 12 volt (like yours) and 24 volt.

I suspect that even SAV at Amel cannot answer your question, except to say, "NO, the brushes are not the same."

I saw the slightly smaller brush used successfully by SM233 Iteration. Normally I would record the source of that brush as one to refer to my clients. I did not because I believe at some point that smaller width brush will cause a problem when it wears and the length becomes shorter. I may be wrong, and I am sure that only multiple experiences over time will prove me right or wrong.

One thing for sure is that you can always buy a larger electric motor brush and cut it to size. This is the safe solution. You may have to take the larger brush to a machine shop to have it cut.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Wed, May 29, 2019 at 1:20 PM <davidcbruce57@...> wrote:
Thanks for this sourcing information Kelly and Ryan.  

 Would anyone (Bill?) know if the brushes on all furling motors on a given boat as well as those on different model boats such as SM and SN are the same?    

Thanks, 

Dave and Shelley Bruce
Liesse, SN006 
Gaeta, Italy 

On May 28, 2019, at 3:48 PM, Kelly Ran <naryllek@...> wrote:

Hi all,

We recently needed to change the brushes on our main furling motor (Leroy Somer MBT86M).

I found an 8mm x 10mm x 17mm brush which works for us, so far. Unsure of the material but it looks similar to electrographite.

It seems that other owners have issues sourcing this brush, so here is the info:
Eurton Electric SPR-A007  
7.50USD, ships from California

We also found that Maude has some slightly different brushes (8mm x 9mm x 16mm) in stock right now for 24 Euros. We did not order these, as the Eurton brushes work.

Fair winds,
kelly + ryan
SM233 Iteration
Boston


Re: Furling motor brushes

Kelly Ran
 

Hi Bill,

I'm not quite sure what you mean -- the Eurton brushes are larger than the ones that Amel has in stock. The Eurton brushes fit very well in the keyway...it's a tight fit, and they still go in smoothly. I don't think jamming will be an issue, if that was your concern.

We will report back after a few months with how the brushes held up.

Best,
kelly + ryan
SM233 Iteration
Boston

On Wed, May 29, 2019 at 2:32 PM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Dave and Shelley,

There are at least 5-6 different Mainmast furling and outhaul motors tat have been used by Amel over the years. Additionally there are 12 volt (like yours) and 24 volt.

I suspect that even SAV at Amel cannot answer your question, except to say, "NO, the brushes are not the same."

I saw the slightly smaller brush used successfully by SM233 Iteration. Normally I would record the source of that brush as one to refer to my clients. I did not because I believe at some point that smaller width brush will cause a problem when it wears and the length becomes shorter. I may be wrong, and I am sure that only multiple experiences over time will prove me right or wrong.

One thing for sure is that you can always buy a larger electric motor brush and cut it to size. This is the safe solution. You may have to take the larger brush to a machine shop to have it cut.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Wed, May 29, 2019 at 1:20 PM <davidcbruce57@...> wrote:
Thanks for this sourcing information Kelly and Ryan.  

 Would anyone (Bill?) know if the brushes on all furling motors on a given boat as well as those on different model boats such as SM and SN are the same?    

Thanks, 

Dave and Shelley Bruce
Liesse, SN006 
Gaeta, Italy 

On May 28, 2019, at 3:48 PM, Kelly Ran <naryllek@...> wrote:

Hi all,

We recently needed to change the brushes on our main furling motor (Leroy Somer MBT86M).

I found an 8mm x 10mm x 17mm brush which works for us, so far. Unsure of the material but it looks similar to electrographite.

It seems that other owners have issues sourcing this brush, so here is the info:
Eurton Electric SPR-A007  
7.50USD, ships from California

We also found that Maude has some slightly different brushes (8mm x 9mm x 16mm) in stock right now for 24 Euros. We did not order these, as the Eurton brushes work.

Fair winds,
kelly + ryan
SM233 Iteration
Boston


Re: Vetus Flexi coupling

 

Or, more likely, an allignment issue. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, May 29, 2019, 2:36 PM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi Paul,

I agree with Craig, nylocs coming loose is unusual. I would check the rubber bushes. You may have metal on metal going on in there.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 29 May 2019 at 22:47 "Craig Briggs via Groups.Io" <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Paul, 
Surprising the nylocs loosened - maybe nylocs AND locktite with a little bubble gum ;-)
Btw, for leverage when tightening, I use a long screwdriver under the coupling and over one of the bolts on the opposite side of the one I'm tightening. Have also used a chain wrench. Left the transmission in gear just to stabilize it a bit, but took most of the force with the screwdriver.
Don't recall the exact bolt size, but you can google the torque - M8 Class 10.9 for example is 40 Nm. 
Cheers, Craig, SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor 


Re: Vetus Flexi coupling

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Paul,

I agree with Craig, nylocs coming loose is unusual. I would check the rubber bushes. You may have metal on metal going on in there.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 29 May 2019 at 22:47 "Craig Briggs via Groups.Io" <sangaris@...> wrote:

Paul, 
Surprising the nylocs loosened - maybe nylocs AND locktite with a little bubble gum ;-)
Btw, for leverage when tightening, I use a long screwdriver under the coupling and over one of the bolts on the opposite side of the one I'm tightening. Have also used a chain wrench. Left the transmission in gear just to stabilize it a bit, but took most of the force with the screwdriver.
Don't recall the exact bolt size, but you can google the torque - M8 Class 10.9 for example is 40 Nm. 
Cheers, Craig, SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor 


Re: Furling motor brushes

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi again Dave, Just a little more on this. Put the file on a flat surface and rub the brush back and forth on it. Much more controllable that way.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 30 May 2019 at 07:22 Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi Dave,

If you need to reduce the size of carbon brushes it is easily and accurately achieved with a file.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 30 May 2019 at 06:31 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Dave and Shelley,

There are at least 5-6 different Mainmast furling and outhaul motors tat have been used by Amel over the years. Additionally there are 12 volt (like yours) and 24 volt.

I suspect that even SAV at Amel cannot answer your question, except to say, "NO, the brushes are not the same."

I saw the slightly smaller brush used successfully by SM233 Iteration. Normally I would record the source of that brush as one to refer to my clients. I did not because I believe at some point that smaller width brush will cause a problem when it wears and the length becomes shorter. I may be wrong, and I am sure that only multiple experiences over time will prove me right or wrong.

One thing for sure is that you can always buy a larger electric motor brush and cut it to size. This is the safe solution. You may have to take the larger brush to a machine shop to have it cut.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Wed, May 29, 2019 at 1:20 PM < davidcbruce57@...> wrote:
Thanks for this sourcing information Kelly and Ryan.  

 Would anyone (Bill?) know if the brushes on all furling motors on a given boat as well as those on different model boats such as SM and SN are the same?    

Thanks, 

Dave and Shelley Bruce
Liesse, SN006 
Gaeta, Italy 

On May 28, 2019, at 3:48 PM, Kelly Ran < naryllek@...> wrote:

Hi all,

We recently needed to change the brushes on our main furling motor (Leroy Somer MBT86M).

I found an 8mm x 10mm x 17mm brush which works for us, so far. Unsure of the material but it looks similar to electrographite.

It seems that other owners have issues sourcing this brush, so here is the info:
Eurton Electric  SPR-A007  
7.50USD, ships from California

We also found that Maude has some slightly different brushes (8mm x 9mm x 16mm) in stock right now for 24 Euros. We did not order these, as the Eurton brushes work.

Fair winds,
kelly + ryan
SM233 Iteration
Boston

 

 


 


 


Re: Furling motor brushes

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Dave,

If you need to reduce the size of carbon brushes it is easily and accurately achieved with a file.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 30 May 2019 at 06:31 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Dave and Shelley,

There are at least 5-6 different Mainmast furling and outhaul motors tat have been used by Amel over the years. Additionally there are 12 volt (like yours) and 24 volt.

I suspect that even SAV at Amel cannot answer your question, except to say, "NO, the brushes are not the same."

I saw the slightly smaller brush used successfully by SM233 Iteration. Normally I would record the source of that brush as one to refer to my clients. I did not because I believe at some point that smaller width brush will cause a problem when it wears and the length becomes shorter. I may be wrong, and I am sure that only multiple experiences over time will prove me right or wrong.

One thing for sure is that you can always buy a larger electric motor brush and cut it to size. This is the safe solution. You may have to take the larger brush to a machine shop to have it cut.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Wed, May 29, 2019 at 1:20 PM < davidcbruce57@...> wrote:
Thanks for this sourcing information Kelly and Ryan.  

 Would anyone (Bill?) know if the brushes on all furling motors on a given boat as well as those on different model boats such as SM and SN are the same?    

Thanks, 

Dave and Shelley Bruce
Liesse, SN006 
Gaeta, Italy 

On May 28, 2019, at 3:48 PM, Kelly Ran < naryllek@...> wrote:

Hi all,

We recently needed to change the brushes on our main furling motor (Leroy Somer MBT86M).

I found an 8mm x 10mm x 17mm brush which works for us, so far. Unsure of the material but it looks similar to electrographite.

It seems that other owners have issues sourcing this brush, so here is the info:
Eurton Electric  SPR-A007  
7.50USD, ships from California

We also found that Maude has some slightly different brushes (8mm x 9mm x 16mm) in stock right now for 24 Euros. We did not order these, as the Eurton brushes work.

Fair winds,
kelly + ryan
SM233 Iteration
Boston

 

 


Re: Furling motor brushes

 

Dave and Shelley,

There are at least 5-6 different Mainmast furling and outhaul motors tat have been used by Amel over the years. Additionally there are 12 volt (like yours) and 24 volt.

I suspect that even SAV at Amel cannot answer your question, except to say, "NO, the brushes are not the same."

I saw the slightly smaller brush used successfully by SM233 Iteration. Normally I would record the source of that brush as one to refer to my clients. I did not because I believe at some point that smaller width brush will cause a problem when it wears and the length becomes shorter. I may be wrong, and I am sure that only multiple experiences over time will prove me right or wrong.

One thing for sure is that you can always buy a larger electric motor brush and cut it to size. This is the safe solution. You may have to take the larger brush to a machine shop to have it cut.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Wed, May 29, 2019 at 1:20 PM <davidcbruce57@...> wrote:
Thanks for this sourcing information Kelly and Ryan.  

 Would anyone (Bill?) know if the brushes on all furling motors on a given boat as well as those on different model boats such as SM and SN are the same?    

Thanks, 

Dave and Shelley Bruce
Liesse, SN006 
Gaeta, Italy 

On May 28, 2019, at 3:48 PM, Kelly Ran <naryllek@...> wrote:

Hi all,

We recently needed to change the brushes on our main furling motor (Leroy Somer MBT86M).

I found an 8mm x 10mm x 17mm brush which works for us, so far. Unsure of the material but it looks similar to electrographite.

It seems that other owners have issues sourcing this brush, so here is the info:
Eurton Electric SPR-A007  
7.50USD, ships from California

We also found that Maude has some slightly different brushes (8mm x 9mm x 16mm) in stock right now for 24 Euros. We did not order these, as the Eurton brushes work.

Fair winds,
kelly + ryan
SM233 Iteration
Boston


Re: Furling motor brushes

david bruce
 

Thanks for this sourcing information Kelly and Ryan.  

 Would anyone (Bill?) know if the brushes on all furling motors on a given boat as well as those on different model boats such as SM and SN are the same?    

Thanks, 

Dave and Shelley Bruce
Liesse, SN006 
Gaeta, Italy 

On May 28, 2019, at 3:48 PM, Kelly Ran <naryllek@...> wrote:

Hi all,

We recently needed to change the brushes on our main furling motor (Leroy Somer MBT86M).

I found an 8mm x 10mm x 17mm brush which works for us, so far. Unsure of the material but it looks similar to electrographite.

It seems that other owners have issues sourcing this brush, so here is the info:
Eurton Electric SPR-A007  
7.50USD, ships from California

We also found that Maude has some slightly different brushes (8mm x 9mm x 16mm) in stock right now for 24 Euros. We did not order these, as the Eurton brushes work.

Fair winds,
kelly + ryan
SM233 Iteration
Boston


Re: supplemental downwind sailing configuration for Super Maramu

James Cromie
 

Thanks Gerald.
I certainly could fly the ballooner free, but I’m looking for a larger surface area sail that will give greater range of AWA, as well as having a back up sail to the ballooner I have in case that were to blow apart…
I will likely have the sail made such that the foot of the sail is elevated off of the deck in order to clear the pulpit.

Alternatively, I could use a sock and rig the clew outboard of the pulpit, but I suspect I will end up not using it as much in that case.
A furler would allow me to quickly reel in the sail if the weather changes, as well as take it in at night and deploy in the morning.

-James

On May 29, 2019, at 12:44 PM, Gerald Bassin <gerald.bassin@...> wrote:

Quite right James
The issue here, is to get clear of the genoa forestay,motor and top swivel.
Then you have the pulpit to worry about with your downhaul...

and for Paul's question: would I do it again...?
well in the Med I used that sail quite a lot... not so in the Caribbean eventhough on the lee side of some island with light winds we just keep moving...

So I'm not quite sure as we had lots of problems before we got a working system...


Just have to pay attention when getting close to the channels and furl the anaconda in due time...

Rgrds to all

G
....
So why not use the ballooner without forestay then?


On 29/05/2019 17:21, James Cromie via Groups.Io wrote:
Thanks for the info. on your rig Gerald. Do you believe that the
top-down furler could be attached to the anchor point just above the
anchor in the pulpit and avoid using a bow sprit? If you did this, I
imagine you might need to elevate the furler mechanism with a 2:1
adjustable downhaul so that it could be raised to allow adequate
clearance from the gearbox housing.
Thanks,
James
On May 29, 2019, at 10:41 AM, Gerald Bassin <gerald.bassin@...> wrote:
Hi Paul
Here a few pics.
The bow sprit is a standard Selden product.
The "horse shoe" front attachement was custom made in Antigua after the Selden bolts of the original attachement broke during the Atlantic crossing (of course withe the sail up! but I confirm, the pullpit is solid and averted more damage).The Selden design does not allow for a lot of side forces I think.
The tail end box was also custom made in France to get the proper angle. It's basically a stainlesssteel box.
We have a port and a starbord halyard in order to clear the genoa top swivel. Huge chaffing problems before we arrived at that solution.
It is still possible to open the stbd lazarette and if we disconnect the aft end of the bow sprit, the acces to the cleat is granted.
The whole thing slides back out quite easily ro reduce LOA!!
The code D is attached to an anti torsion forestay so when it's rolled you have a kind of Anaconda which you can store in a 5-6ft sail bag.
Unfortunately during our last 4 season in the Caribbean (Dec-May), the wind was often to strong or from the wrong direction to use it...
Here also a link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7nPSdkYP98
Feel free to ask more questions !
Rgrds
Gerald
On 29/05/2019 14:04, Paul Osterberg wrote:
Gerald looks great
Do you have any pictures on the bow sprit? Who made it? We also want a
detachable, else one has to pay for it each time hauling out.
When the code D is furled how much space does it take? is it easy to
find storage for it?
assume you diesel consumption reduced since you got it?
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259
Links:
------
[1] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/message/45978
[2] https://groups.io/mt/31824213/1768002
[3] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/post
[4] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/editsub/1768002
[5] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/leave/defanged
<P1030995.JPG><IMG_0150.JPG><IMG_0179.JPG><IMG_0180.JPG><IMG_0181.JPG>


Re: supplemental downwind sailing configuration for Super Maramu

Gerald Bassin
 

Quite right James
The issue here, is to get clear of the genoa forestay,motor and top swivel.
Then you have the pulpit to worry about with your downhaul...

and for Paul's question: would I do it again...?
well in the Med I used that sail quite a lot... not so in the Caribbean eventhough on the lee side of some island with light winds we just keep moving...

So I'm not quite sure as we had lots of problems before we got a working system...


Just have to pay attention when getting close to the channels and furl the anaconda in due time...

Rgrds to all

G
....
So why not use the ballooner without forestay then?

On 29/05/2019 17:21, James Cromie via Groups.Io wrote:
Thanks for the info. on your rig Gerald. Do you believe that the
top-down furler could be attached to the anchor point just above the
anchor in the pulpit and avoid using a bow sprit? If you did this, I
imagine you might need to elevate the furler mechanism with a 2:1
adjustable downhaul so that it could be raised to allow adequate
clearance from the gearbox housing.
Thanks,
James
On May 29, 2019, at 10:41 AM, Gerald Bassin <gerald.bassin@...> wrote:
Hi Paul
Here a few pics.
The bow sprit is a standard Selden product.
The "horse shoe" front attachement was custom made in Antigua after the Selden bolts of the original attachement broke during the Atlantic crossing (of course withe the sail up! but I confirm, the pullpit is solid and averted more damage).The Selden design does not allow for a lot of side forces I think.
The tail end box was also custom made in France to get the proper angle. It's basically a stainlesssteel box.
We have a port and a starbord halyard in order to clear the genoa top swivel. Huge chaffing problems before we arrived at that solution.
It is still possible to open the stbd lazarette and if we disconnect the aft end of the bow sprit, the acces to the cleat is granted.
The whole thing slides back out quite easily ro reduce LOA!!
The code D is attached to an anti torsion forestay so when it's rolled you have a kind of Anaconda which you can store in a 5-6ft sail bag.
Unfortunately during our last 4 season in the Caribbean (Dec-May), the wind was often to strong or from the wrong direction to use it...
Here also a link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7nPSdkYP98
Feel free to ask more questions !
Rgrds
Gerald
On 29/05/2019 14:04, Paul Osterberg wrote:
Gerald looks great
Do you have any pictures on the bow sprit? Who made it? We also want a
detachable, else one has to pay for it each time hauling out.
When the code D is furled how much space does it take? is it easy to
find storage for it?
assume you diesel consumption reduced since you got it?
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259
Links:
------
[1] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/message/45978
[2] https://groups.io/mt/31824213/1768002
[3] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/post
[4] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/editsub/1768002
[5] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/leave/defanged
<P1030995.JPG><IMG_0150.JPG><IMG_0179.JPG><IMG_0180.JPG><IMG_0181.JPG>


Re: supplemental downwind sailing configuration for Super Maramu

James Cromie
 

Does anyone else on the forum use a top-down furling system for flying an asymmetric spinnaker or other down-wind sail?

I’d like to know if the systems can work well without adding a bow sprit.

Thank you all.

James
Soteria SM2K 347

On May 29, 2019, at 10:41 AM, Gerald Bassin <gerald.bassin@...> wrote:

Hi Paul

Here a few pics.
The bow sprit is a standard Selden product.

The "horse shoe" front attachement was custom made in Antigua after the Selden bolts of the original attachement broke during the Atlantic crossing (of course withe the sail up! but I confirm, the pullpit is solid and averted more damage).The Selden design does not allow for a lot of side forces I think.

The tail end box was also custom made in France to get the proper angle. It's basically a stainlesssteel box.

We have a port and a starbord halyard in order to clear the genoa top swivel. Huge chaffing problems before we arrived at that solution.

It is still possible to open the stbd lazarette and if we disconnect the aft end of the bow sprit, the acces to the cleat is granted.

The whole thing slides back out quite easily ro reduce LOA!!

The code D is attached to an anti torsion forestay so when it's rolled you have a kind of Anaconda which you can store in a 5-6ft sail bag.

Unfortunately during our last 4 season in the Caribbean (Dec-May), the wind was often to strong or from the wrong direction to use it...

Here also a link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7nPSdkYP98

Feel free to ask more questions !

Rgrds

Gerald



On 29/05/2019 14:04, Paul Osterberg wrote:
Gerald looks great
Do you have any pictures on the bow sprit? Who made it? We also want a
detachable, else one has to pay for it each time hauling out.
When the code D is furled how much space does it take? is it easy to
find storage for it?
assume you diesel consumption reduced since you got it?
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259
Links:
------
[1] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/message/45978
[2] https://groups.io/mt/31824213/1768002
[3] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/post
[4] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/editsub/1768002
[5] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/leave/defanged


<P1030995.JPG><IMG_0150.JPG><IMG_0179.JPG><IMG_0180.JPG><IMG_0181.JPG>


Re: supplemental downwind sailing configuration for Super Maramu

James Cromie
 

Thanks for the info. on your rig Gerald. Do you believe that the top-down furler could be attached to the anchor point just above the anchor in the pulpit and avoid using a bow sprit? If you did this, I imagine you might need to elevate the furler mechanism with a 2:1 adjustable downhaul so that it could be raised to allow adequate clearance from the gearbox housing.

Thanks,
James

On May 29, 2019, at 10:41 AM, Gerald Bassin <gerald.bassin@...> wrote:

Hi Paul

Here a few pics.
The bow sprit is a standard Selden product.

The "horse shoe" front attachement was custom made in Antigua after the Selden bolts of the original attachement broke during the Atlantic crossing (of course withe the sail up! but I confirm, the pullpit is solid and averted more damage).The Selden design does not allow for a lot of side forces I think.

The tail end box was also custom made in France to get the proper angle. It's basically a stainlesssteel box.

We have a port and a starbord halyard in order to clear the genoa top swivel. Huge chaffing problems before we arrived at that solution.

It is still possible to open the stbd lazarette and if we disconnect the aft end of the bow sprit, the acces to the cleat is granted.

The whole thing slides back out quite easily ro reduce LOA!!

The code D is attached to an anti torsion forestay so when it's rolled you have a kind of Anaconda which you can store in a 5-6ft sail bag.

Unfortunately during our last 4 season in the Caribbean (Dec-May), the wind was often to strong or from the wrong direction to use it...

Here also a link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7nPSdkYP98

Feel free to ask more questions !

Rgrds

Gerald



On 29/05/2019 14:04, Paul Osterberg wrote:
Gerald looks great
Do you have any pictures on the bow sprit? Who made it? We also want a
detachable, else one has to pay for it each time hauling out.
When the code D is furled how much space does it take? is it easy to
find storage for it?
assume you diesel consumption reduced since you got it?
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259
Links:
------
[1] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/message/45978
[2] https://groups.io/mt/31824213/1768002
[3] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/post
[4] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/editsub/1768002
[5] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/leave/defanged


<P1030995.JPG><IMG_0150.JPG><IMG_0179.JPG><IMG_0180.JPG><IMG_0181.JPG>


Re: supplemental downwind sailing configuration for Super Maramu

Paul Osterberg
 

Thank you Gerard
I think by substituting the Selden aluminium tube with a SS one, strength in all direction will be improved.
How long does it protrude from the bow fittings? I discussed this with Selden and they recommend a water stay.
It involve  lot of money the whole thing, Furler, halyards, down haul, sheets, sail and bowsprit, I guess close to 10 000 Euoro, was it worth it? would you do it again?
Paul 


Re: supplemental downwind sailing configuration for Super Maramu

Gerald Bassin
 

Hi Paul

Here a few pics.
The bow sprit is a standard Selden product.

The "horse shoe" front attachement was custom made in Antigua after the Selden bolts of the original attachement broke during the Atlantic crossing (of course withe the sail up! but I confirm, the pullpit is solid and averted more damage).The Selden design does not allow for a lot of side forces I think.

The tail end box was also custom made in France to get the proper angle. It's basically a stainlesssteel box.

We have a port and a starbord halyard in order to clear the genoa top swivel. Huge chaffing problems before we arrived at that solution.

It is still possible to open the stbd lazarette and if we disconnect the aft end of the bow sprit, the acces to the cleat is granted.

The whole thing slides back out quite easily ro reduce LOA!!

The code D is attached to an anti torsion forestay so when it's rolled you have a kind of Anaconda which you can store in a 5-6ft sail bag.

Unfortunately during our last 4 season in the Caribbean (Dec-May), the wind was often to strong or from the wrong direction to use it...

Here also a link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7nPSdkYP98

Feel free to ask more questions !

Rgrds

Gerald

On 29/05/2019 14:04, Paul Osterberg wrote:
Gerald looks great
Do you have any pictures on the bow sprit? Who made it? We also want a
detachable, else one has to pay for it each time hauling out.
When the code D is furled how much space does it take? is it easy to
find storage for it?
assume you diesel consumption reduced since you got it?
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259
Links:
------
[1] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/message/45978
[2] https://groups.io/mt/31824213/1768002
[3] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/post
[4] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/editsub/1768002
[5] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/leave/defanged


Re: supplemental downwind sailing configuration for Super Maramu

Paul Osterberg
 

Gerald looks great
Do you have any pictures on the bow sprit? Who made it? We also want a detachable, else one has to pay for it each time hauling out.
When the code D is furled how much space does it take? is it easy to find storage for it? 
assume you diesel consumption reduced since you got it?
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259


Re: Vetus Flexi coupling

Craig Briggs
 

Paul, 
Surprising the nylocs loosened - maybe nylocs AND locktite with a little bubble gum ;-)
Btw, for leverage when tightening, I use a long screwdriver under the coupling and over one of the bolts on the opposite side of the one I'm tightening. Have also used a chain wrench. Left the transmission in gear just to stabilize it a bit, but took most of the force with the screwdriver.
Don't recall the exact bolt size, but you can google the torque - M8 Class 10.9 for example is 40 Nm. 
Cheers, Craig, SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor