Date   

Re: Greek Cruising Tax

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi james;

The tax runs 8 Euros/meter per month. So for our 54 it ran 128Euros/month. This is for calendar month, so regardless of when you check in, they will charge for the full calendar month.

You can leave the cruising permit in bond with immigration or port police while wintering or not cruising and they will not charge untill you get the cruising permit out of bond.

Respectfully;


Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
54 #099

On May 31, 2019, at 5:06 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Rink de Haan,

   We plan to enter Greek waters this season and were considering storing in Greece as well.  Can you tell me if this tax applies to vessels in storage?  Thanks for sharing the link and this information,  sure don’t want to be paying hefty fines.

James

SV Sueno
Maramu #220
Arbatax,  Sardinia

On May 31, 2019, at 10:43 AM, Rink De Haan <rinkdehaan@...> wrote:

Dear all (cruising in Greek Waters),

Since many years there is a discussion about a "Cruising Tax" for ships in Greek waters.
It appears to be in place since the beginning of May. I received confirmation of this from Lefkas Marina where my ship is.
I checked the procedure and submitted my tax form today. Now waiting for payment instructions.

The tax for a Super Maramu (15.9 meters) will be €127 a month sailing). Fines of not paying are quite hefty. 

 

For log in and completion of the procedure please click at https://www1.aade.gr/aadeapps2/etepai/ (choose English).
The is a FAQ and a manual.

Best regards,
Rink de Haan
SM2K #330 Razor's Edge
Lefkas Marina, Greece

 



Re: Greek Cruising Tax

James Alton
 

Rink de Haan,

   We plan to enter Greek waters this season and were considering storing in Greece as well.  Can you tell me if this tax applies to vessels in storage?  Thanks for sharing the link and this information,  sure don’t want to be paying hefty fines.

James

SV Sueno
Maramu #220
Arbatax,  Sardinia

On May 31, 2019, at 10:43 AM, Rink De Haan <rinkdehaan@...> wrote:

Dear all (cruising in Greek Waters),

Since many years there is a discussion about a "Cruising Tax" for ships in Greek waters.
It appears to be in place since the beginning of May. I received confirmation of this from Lefkas Marina where my ship is.
I checked the procedure and submitted my tax form today. Now waiting for payment instructions.

The tax for a Super Maramu (15.9 meters) will be €127 a month sailing). Fines of not paying are quite hefty. 

 

For log in and completion of the procedure please click at https://www1.aade.gr/aadeapps2/etepai/ (choose English).
The is a FAQ and a manual.

Best regards,
Rink de Haan
SM2K #330 Razor's Edge
Lefkas Marina, Greece

 



Re: autoprop zinc

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

Dear Bill,

My remark is only that if you have a fault on the grounding system if you have an zinc cap on the propeller you loss the zinc and not the bronze of the Autoprop .... and so you easily can see that you have a problem on you grounding ....

JLM on CottonBay


Le 31/05/2019 à 15:21, CW Bill Rouse a écrit :

Mr MERTZ,

I am sure of what I said. 

If your Gray Water Bilge Bonding Strap is not connected, and you experience any electrolysis to devices other than the Cast Iron Ballast, something else is wrong, possibly a break between the rudder anodes and the bonding system. 

I recommend checking for continuity between anodes and propeller each time you haulout of the water. If you are in the water and suspect a problem, I suggest that you check for continuity between the top of the rudder post and the top of the C-Drive. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Fri, May 31, 2019, 8:04 AM jlm@... <jlm@...> wrote:

Not sure !

I my case I detected the fault on the bonding strap in the grey water bilge by seeing the colour of the Autopro propeller .... and ... after repairing the bonding, the propeller haven't change his colour ....

JL MERTZ on CottonBay



Le 31/05/2019 à 14:20, CW Bill Rouse a écrit :
Mr. MERTZ,

When the copper Bonding Strap in the Gray Water Bilge fails, it is the Cast Iron Ballast on the Keel Stub that is at risk, NOT the Propeller. 

The Propeller is protected by Amel bonding with the connection of a large yellow/green bonding wire connected to the C-Drive. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Fri, May 31, 2019, 2:02 AM jlm@... <jlm@...> wrote:

After 15 years the main bonding in the lowest point in the black water box faille.

Then your Amel bonding system is NOT operating and the Autoprop is attacked ! his colour change !

JL MERTZ on CottonBay


Le 26/02/2019 à 15:06, CW Bill Rouse a écrit :
Yes H6 is correct, but Henri believed that only a plastic propeller hub should be used.

There are several reasons:
1.) The propeller is protected by the Amel Bonding system.
2.) When the AutoProp zinc deteriorates it is the attachment ears that go first. This causes off-balance and you can only use about 80% of the zinc.

AutoProp makes and recommends the zinc because they want the propeller protected and no other boat yard has a bonding system as good as Amel. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Tue, Feb 26, 2019, 6:37 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi Miles,

 

Yes. H6 is the correct one.

 

https://www.boatzincs.com/autoprop_specs_H6.html

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Miles
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 8:20 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] autoprop zinc

 

I have just ordered a new H6 zinc for my autoprop.  Can anyone please let me know if the H6 is the correct size. 

Regards,
Miles
s/y Ladybug, sm216  Le Marin, Martinique


Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Greek Cruising Tax

Rink De Haan
 

Dear all (cruising in Greek Waters),

Since many years there is a discussion about a "Cruising Tax" for ships in Greek waters.
It appears to be in place since the beginning of May. I received confirmation of this from Lefkas Marina where my ship is.
I checked the procedure and submitted my tax form today. Now waiting for payment instructions.

The tax for a Super Maramu (15.9 meters) will be €127 a month sailing). Fines of not paying are quite hefty. 

 

For log in and completion of the procedure please click at https://www1.aade.gr/aadeapps2/etepai/ (choose English).
The is a FAQ and a manual.

Best regards,
Rink de Haan
SM2K #330 Razor's Edge
Lefkas Marina, Greece

 


Re: Amel 54 Standing Rigging and changes to the Mainmast Lower and Intermediate Shrouds

Roque
 

Thanks. 

Em sex, 31 de mai de 2019 às 10:25, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> escreveu:

No I had the riggers at Spice Island Marine in Grenada make it all up.
Nick



On 31 May 2019, at 13:36, Roque <ediroque@...> wrote:

Nick

Diz you buy the new rig from ACMO?

Roque
Attika A54 117
Paraty Brazil 

Em sex, 31 de mai de 2019 às 00:26, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> escreveu:
Amelia AML 54-019 2006 has 10mm lowers and 8mm intermediaries.
This is annoying as when I bought the boat in 2017, I had all new standing rigging made.
Food for thought.....
Nick


On 30 May 2019, at 19:08, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Thanks, Dean. As far as I know, that makes Stella #154 the earliest produced Amel 54 with 12mm lowers and 10mm Intermediates.

This is a summary of what I know as of today. I am sure the hull numbers will narrow with more reporting:
  1. #46 (2007) was produced with 10mm lowers and 8mm intermediates. Had rig failure due to lower shroud failure-reported in Amel Yacht Owners Group ​in ​July 2014.
  2. #117 (2009) was produced with 10mm lowers and 8mm intermediates. #128 (2009) was produced with 12mm lowers and 8mm Intermediates.
  3. #128 (2009) was produced with 12mm lowers and 8mm Intermediates.
  4. #154 (2010) was produced with 12mm lowers and 10mm Intermediates.
 
Best,
 


Re: Amel 54 Standing Rigging and changes to the Mainmast Lower and Intermediate Shrouds

ngtnewington Newington
 

No I had the riggers at Spice Island Marine in Grenada make it all up.
Nick


On 31 May 2019, at 13:36, Roque <ediroque@...> wrote:

Nick

Diz you buy the new rig from ACMO?

Roque
Attika A54 117
Paraty Brazil 

Em sex, 31 de mai de 2019 às 00:26, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> escreveu:
Amelia AML 54-019 2006 has 10mm lowers and 8mm intermediaries.
This is annoying as when I bought the boat in 2017, I had all new standing rigging made.
Food for thought.....
Nick


On 30 May 2019, at 19:08, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Thanks, Dean. As far as I know, that makes Stella #154 the earliest produced Amel 54 with 12mm lowers and 10mm Intermediates.

This is a summary of what I know as of today. I am sure the hull numbers will narrow with more reporting:
  1. #46 (2007) was produced with 10mm lowers and 8mm intermediates. Had rig failure due to lower shroud failure-reported in Amel Yacht Owners Group ​in ​July 2014.
  2. #117 (2009) was produced with 10mm lowers and 8mm intermediates. #128 (2009) was produced with 12mm lowers and 8mm Intermediates.
  3. #128 (2009) was produced with 12mm lowers and 8mm Intermediates.
  4. #154 (2010) was produced with 12mm lowers and 10mm Intermediates.
 
Best,
 


Re: autoprop zinc

 

Mr MERTZ,

I am sure of what I said. 

If your Gray Water Bilge Bonding Strap is not connected, and you experience any electrolysis to devices other than the Cast Iron Ballast, something else is wrong, possibly a break between the rudder anodes and the bonding system. 

I recommend checking for continuity between anodes and propeller each time you haulout of the water. If you are in the water and suspect a problem, I suggest that you check for continuity between the top of the rudder post and the top of the C-Drive. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Fri, May 31, 2019, 8:04 AM jlm@... <jlm@...> wrote:

Not sure !

I my case I detected the fault on the bonding strap in the grey water bilge by seeing the colour of the Autopro propeller .... and ... after repairing the bonding, the propeller haven't change his colour ....

JL MERTZ on CottonBay



Le 31/05/2019 à 14:20, CW Bill Rouse a écrit :
Mr. MERTZ,

When the copper Bonding Strap in the Gray Water Bilge fails, it is the Cast Iron Ballast on the Keel Stub that is at risk, NOT the Propeller. 

The Propeller is protected by Amel bonding with the connection of a large yellow/green bonding wire connected to the C-Drive. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Fri, May 31, 2019, 2:02 AM jlm@... <jlm@...> wrote:

After 15 years the main bonding in the lowest point in the black water box faille.

Then your Amel bonding system is NOT operating and the Autoprop is attacked ! his colour change !

JL MERTZ on CottonBay


Le 26/02/2019 à 15:06, CW Bill Rouse a écrit :
Yes H6 is correct, but Henri believed that only a plastic propeller hub should be used.

There are several reasons:
1.) The propeller is protected by the Amel Bonding system.
2.) When the AutoProp zinc deteriorates it is the attachment ears that go first. This causes off-balance and you can only use about 80% of the zinc.

AutoProp makes and recommends the zinc because they want the propeller protected and no other boat yard has a bonding system as good as Amel. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Tue, Feb 26, 2019, 6:37 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi Miles,

 

Yes. H6 is the correct one.

 

https://www.boatzincs.com/autoprop_specs_H6.html

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Miles
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 8:20 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] autoprop zinc

 

I have just ordered a new H6 zinc for my autoprop.  Can anyone please let me know if the H6 is the correct size. 

Regards,
Miles
s/y Ladybug, sm216  Le Marin, Martinique


Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: autoprop zinc

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

Not sure !

I my case I detected the fault on the bonding strap in the grey water bilge by seeing the colour of the Autopro propeller .... and ... after repairing the bonding, the propeller haven't change his colour ....

JL MERTZ on CottonBay



Le 31/05/2019 à 14:20, CW Bill Rouse a écrit :

Mr. MERTZ,

When the copper Bonding Strap in the Gray Water Bilge fails, it is the Cast Iron Ballast on the Keel Stub that is at risk, NOT the Propeller. 

The Propeller is protected by Amel bonding with the connection of a large yellow/green bonding wire connected to the C-Drive. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Fri, May 31, 2019, 2:02 AM jlm@... <jlm@...> wrote:

After 15 years the main bonding in the lowest point in the black water box faille.

Then your Amel bonding system is NOT operating and the Autoprop is attacked ! his colour change !

JL MERTZ on CottonBay


Le 26/02/2019 à 15:06, CW Bill Rouse a écrit :
Yes H6 is correct, but Henri believed that only a plastic propeller hub should be used.

There are several reasons:
1.) The propeller is protected by the Amel Bonding system.
2.) When the AutoProp zinc deteriorates it is the attachment ears that go first. This causes off-balance and you can only use about 80% of the zinc.

AutoProp makes and recommends the zinc because they want the propeller protected and no other boat yard has a bonding system as good as Amel. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Tue, Feb 26, 2019, 6:37 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi Miles,

 

Yes. H6 is the correct one.

 

https://www.boatzincs.com/autoprop_specs_H6.html

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Miles
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 8:20 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] autoprop zinc

 

I have just ordered a new H6 zinc for my autoprop.  Can anyone please let me know if the H6 is the correct size. 

Regards,
Miles
s/y Ladybug, sm216  Le Marin, Martinique


Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: autoprop zinc

 

Mr. MERTZ,

When the copper Bonding Strap in the Gray Water Bilge fails, it is the Cast Iron Ballast on the Keel Stub that is at risk, NOT the Propeller. 

The Propeller is protected by Amel bonding with the connection of a large yellow/green bonding wire connected to the C-Drive. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Fri, May 31, 2019, 2:02 AM jlm@... <jlm@...> wrote:

After 15 years the main bonding in the lowest point in the black water box faille.

Then your Amel bonding system is NOT operating and the Autoprop is attacked ! his colour change !

JL MERTZ on CottonBay


Le 26/02/2019 à 15:06, CW Bill Rouse a écrit :
Yes H6 is correct, but Henri believed that only a plastic propeller hub should be used.

There are several reasons:
1.) The propeller is protected by the Amel Bonding system.
2.) When the AutoProp zinc deteriorates it is the attachment ears that go first. This causes off-balance and you can only use about 80% of the zinc.

AutoProp makes and recommends the zinc because they want the propeller protected and no other boat yard has a bonding system as good as Amel. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Tue, Feb 26, 2019, 6:37 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi Miles,

 

Yes. H6 is the correct one.

 

https://www.boatzincs.com/autoprop_specs_H6.html

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Miles
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 8:20 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] autoprop zinc

 

I have just ordered a new H6 zinc for my autoprop.  Can anyone please let me know if the H6 is the correct size. 

Regards,
Miles
s/y Ladybug, sm216  Le Marin, Martinique


Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Amel 54 Standing Rigging and changes to the Mainmast Lower and Intermediate Shrouds

 

Nick, that is exactly the reason I posted this as soon as I found out about it and confirmed that it happened. Amel 54 owners need to know. 

I am sure that if you didn't go to Amel or ACMO, you probably wouldn't have found out that your rigging was undersized based on apparent changes communicated to ACMO and the last 54s built. 

You are faced with making a decision on whether to change 4 shrouds, which could cost about 20% of the total. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Thu, May 30, 2019, 10:26 PM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Amelia AML 54-019 2006 has 10mm lowers and 8mm intermediaries.
This is annoying as when I bought the boat in 2017, I had all new standing rigging made.
Food for thought.....
Nick


On 30 May 2019, at 19:08, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Thanks, Dean. As far as I know, that makes Stella #154 the earliest produced Amel 54 with 12mm lowers and 10mm Intermediates.

This is a summary of what I know as of today. I am sure the hull numbers will narrow with more reporting:
  1. #46 (2007) was produced with 10mm lowers and 8mm intermediates. Had rig failure due to lower shroud failure-reported in Amel Yacht Owners Group ​in ​July 2014.
  2. #117 (2009) was produced with 10mm lowers and 8mm intermediates. #128 (2009) was produced with 12mm lowers and 8mm Intermediates.
  3. #128 (2009) was produced with 12mm lowers and 8mm Intermediates.
  4. #154 (2010) was produced with 12mm lowers and 10mm Intermediates.
 
Best,
 
Bill Rouse
Yacht School  
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970


Re: Amel 54 Standing Rigging and changes to the Mainmast Lower and Intermediate Shrouds

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Thank you Bill, these is great info!

On WASABI #55 (2007) I can confirm
MAIN:
   Top Shroud (Galhaubans) 12mm
   Intermediate Shroud (Inters) 8mm 
   Lower Shroud (Bas Haubans AR) 10mm
- Backstay 10mm

Bill I measured also MIZZEN shrouds which have 8mm and 7mm. Is that standard? I feel strange metric? 
- Top Shroud 8mm
- Lower Shroud 7mm
- Backstays 7mm

Thanks and best regards 
Ruedi
WASABI - A54#55
Currently Pylos, GR.

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Donnerstag, 30. Mai 2019 um 19:08
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Amel 54 Standing Rigging and changes to the Mainmast Lower and Intermediate Shrouds

Thanks, Dean. As far as I know, that makes Stella #154 the earliest produced Amel 54 with 12mm lowers and 10mm Intermediates.

This is a summary of what I know as of today. I am sure the hull numbers will narrow with more reporting:
  1. #46 (2007) was produced with 10mm lowers and 8mm intermediates. Had rig failure due to lower shroud failure-reported in Amel Yacht Owners Group ​in ​July 2014.
  2. #117 (2009) was produced with 10mm lowers and 8mm intermediates. #128 (2009) was produced with 12mm lowers and 8mm Intermediates.
  3. #128 (2009) was produced with 12mm lowers and 8mm Intermediates.
  4. #154 (2010) was produced with 12mm lowers and 10mm Intermediates.
 
Best,
 
Bill Rouse
Yacht School  
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970


Re: Amel 54 Standing Rigging and changes to the Mainmast Lower and Intermediate Shrouds

Roque
 

Nick

Diz you buy the new rig from ACMO?

Roque
Attika A54 117
Paraty Brazil 

Em sex, 31 de mai de 2019 às 00:26, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> escreveu:

Amelia AML 54-019 2006 has 10mm lowers and 8mm intermediaries.
This is annoying as when I bought the boat in 2017, I had all new standing rigging made.
Food for thought.....
Nick


On 30 May 2019, at 19:08, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Thanks, Dean. As far as I know, that makes Stella #154 the earliest produced Amel 54 with 12mm lowers and 10mm Intermediates.

This is a summary of what I know as of today. I am sure the hull numbers will narrow with more reporting:
  1. #46 (2007) was produced with 10mm lowers and 8mm intermediates. Had rig failure due to lower shroud failure-reported in Amel Yacht Owners Group ​in ​July 2014.
  2. #117 (2009) was produced with 10mm lowers and 8mm intermediates. #128 (2009) was produced with 12mm lowers and 8mm Intermediates.
  3. #128 (2009) was produced with 12mm lowers and 8mm Intermediates.
  4. #154 (2010) was produced with 12mm lowers and 10mm Intermediates.
 
Best,
 


Re: autoprop zinc

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi. I regard my propellor too precious to risk so I put a shaft zink on between the prop and the c drive housing. I have to cut it back a bit to fit. Obviously this means i can't have a cutter there but in 10 years ive had only once where a lobster pot line got caught up.

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 31 May 2019 at 19:02 "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

After 15 years the main bonding in the lowest point in the black water box faille.

Then your Amel bonding system is NOT operating and the Autoprop is attacked ! his colour change !

JL MERTZ on CottonBay


Le 26/02/2019 à 15:06, CW Bill Rouse a écrit :
Yes H6 is correct, but Henri believed that only a plastic propeller hub should be used.

There are several reasons:
1.) The propeller is protected by the Amel Bonding system.
2.) When the AutoProp zinc deteriorates it is the attachment ears that go first. This causes off-balance and you can only use about 80% of the zinc.

AutoProp makes and recommends the zinc because they want the propeller protected and no other boat yard has a bonding system as good as Amel. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Tue, Feb 26, 2019, 6:37 AM Mark Erdos < mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi Miles,

 

Yes. H6 is the correct one.

 

https://www.boatzincs.com/autoprop_specs_H6.html

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Miles
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 8:20 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] autoprop zinc

 

I have just ordered a new H6 zinc for my autoprop.  Can anyone please let me know if the H6 is the correct size. 

Regards,
Miles
s/y Ladybug, sm216  Le Marin, Martinique

 

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


 


 


Re: Amel 54 Standing Rigging and changes to the Mainmast Lower and Intermediate Shrouds

Porter McRoberts
 

Great info Bill. Thank you. 
I’ll measure and get back to you
Porter
S/V IBIS 54-152

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On May 29, 2019, at 12:24 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Amel 54 owners,

Many of you are considering new standing rigging.
 
It has come to my attention that sometime between 2009 and 2010 Amel installed larger size Mainmast Lower and Intermediate Shrouds on Amel 54s. I am not sure at which hull number the change took place, but I know that the smaller shrouds were still being used from the first Amel 54 to hull 117 (2009); and I know that the larger shrouds were installed on hull 162 (2010). Between these two hull numbers, Amel increased the wire size, first on the Lower and later on both the Lower and Intermediate shrouds. 
 
   Amel 54 Mainmast Shrouds latest information (French):
   Top Shroud (Galhaubans) 12mm (no change)
   Intermediate Shroud (Inters) 10mm (changed from 8mm)
   Lower Shroud (Bas Haubans AR) 12mm (changed from 10mm)
 
ACMO, Amel's OEM standing rigging supplier, currently ships the larger Lower and Intermediate shrouds when they receive orders for either these shrouds separately, or a complete standing rigging kit. If you have already installed new rigging and you or your rigger ordered the rigging from ACMO, you are likely fine. If the rigging was not made by ACMO, chances are your new wire is the same size as the wire you had. This may be a problem for you.

Obviously, you will need to inform any rigger you use of this change. This week I have informed several riggers that I regularly contact, 

As with some information I share with the Amel Yacht Owners Group, my information is not necessarily officially from Amel. I do not speak for Amel. This is the case with this Amel 54 rigging wire size change. Because some of you are currently in the process of changing rigging, I am posting what I know today. If I learn more about this subject, I will update you here.
 
Best,
 
Bill Rouse
Yacht School  
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970


Re: autoprop zinc

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

After 15 years the main bonding in the lowest point in the black water box faille.

Then your Amel bonding system is NOT operating and the Autoprop is attacked ! his colour change !

JL MERTZ on CottonBay


Le 26/02/2019 à 15:06, CW Bill Rouse a écrit :
Yes H6 is correct, but Henri believed that only a plastic propeller hub should be used.

There are several reasons:
1.) The propeller is protected by the Amel Bonding system.
2.) When the AutoProp zinc deteriorates it is the attachment ears that go first. This causes off-balance and you can only use about 80% of the zinc.

AutoProp makes and recommends the zinc because they want the propeller protected and no other boat yard has a bonding system as good as Amel. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Tue, Feb 26, 2019, 6:37 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi Miles,

 

Yes. H6 is the correct one.

 

https://www.boatzincs.com/autoprop_specs_H6.html

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Miles
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2019 8:20 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] autoprop zinc

 

I have just ordered a new H6 zinc for my autoprop.  Can anyone please let me know if the H6 is the correct size. 

Regards,
Miles
s/y Ladybug, sm216  Le Marin, Martinique


Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


Re: Amel 54 Standing Rigging and changes to the Mainmast Lower and Intermediate Shrouds

ngtnewington Newington
 

Amelia AML 54-019 2006 has 10mm lowers and 8mm intermediaries.
This is annoying as when I bought the boat in 2017, I had all new standing rigging made.
Food for thought.....
Nick


On 30 May 2019, at 19:08, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Thanks, Dean. As far as I know, that makes Stella #154 the earliest produced Amel 54 with 12mm lowers and 10mm Intermediates.

This is a summary of what I know as of today. I am sure the hull numbers will narrow with more reporting:
  1. #46 (2007) was produced with 10mm lowers and 8mm intermediates. Had rig failure due to lower shroud failure-reported in Amel Yacht Owners Group ​in ​July 2014.
  2. #117 (2009) was produced with 10mm lowers and 8mm intermediates. #128 (2009) was produced with 12mm lowers and 8mm Intermediates.
  3. #128 (2009) was produced with 12mm lowers and 8mm Intermediates.
  4. #154 (2010) was produced with 12mm lowers and 10mm Intermediates.
 
Best,
 
Bill Rouse
Yacht School  
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970


Re: Genoa Fair Leads

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Ken, everyone to their own. I didnt think once every 17 years too arduous to remove two  screws in the stauncheon base.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 31 May 2019 at 09:16 Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...> wrote:

Removing the end-stop and the stanchion each time you need to replace the sliders or the springs is a bit much.  I think that removing the un-needed part of the track was the right decision.  Now, I remove one bolt and I can remove the Genoa car.  

Thanks!

Ken


Re: Genoa Fair Leads

Ken Powers SV Aquarius
 

Removing the end-stop and the stanchion each time you need to replace the sliders or the springs is a bit much.  I think that removing the un-needed part of the track was the right decision.  Now, I remove one bolt and I can remove the Genoa car.  

Thanks!

Ken


Re: Batteries: copper bars will not work - be sure that you have jumpers to wire the pairs in series

David Vogel
 

Thanks Bill, Dan,

OK, Perigee has a copper bridging bar for each pair, running between the threaded studs of each battery in a pair.

But point taken, there may be the need to use cables to bridge the pairs. Probably a good idea in any case to have a couple of cables made up, for short-term re-assigning individual batteries between pairs. Or, be prepared to muscle the batteries into the new configuration – this would be a real pain whilst underway, or in a rocky anchorage.

David
SV Perigee, SM#396, Panama


From: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...>
Reply-To: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Date: Thursday, 30 May 2019 at 2:05 pm
To: Bill Rouse <@billrouse>
Cc: <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Batteries: copper bars will not work - be sure that you have jumpers to wire the pairs in series

Regarding the thread on using the copper connecting bars versus cables to connect battery pairs: I had only one copper bar, connecting one of the pairs along the front of the box (BeBe has 12 batteries in 6 pairs).

There is another key benefit of cables: at the end of our 3rd season with the Deka batteries we had two batteries, in different pairs, develop internal shorts in the last month. With cables I was able to rematch the batteries into 5 new pairs without having to move all of the batteries around. And so far for the last month the new pairs we're all playing well together. I will be replacing to whole set in the fall.

Regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM 387

On Thu, May 30, 2019, 1:52 PM Bill Rouse <@billrouse wrote:
I do not think the copper bars will work on all of the pairs...I just do not remember. Maybe Dan Carlson (CC'd) can answer this. They might, but you need to be prepared with jumper wires.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970
My Calendar

Yacht School


On Thu, May 30, 2019 at 1:44 PM David Vogel <david.vogel@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

.> copper bars will not work

Whoa – this is a trap for the unwary! Why is this?

We have the copper bridging bars, for use with the threaded studs with nut. Naturally enough, if we add battery balancer/s then perhaps some other arrangement may be needed. But I was hoping to minimise any new work items just at the moment, aiming for drop-in bolt-in replacements.

David
Perigee, SM#396, Panama


From: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Bill Rouse <@billrouse>
Reply-To: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Date: Thursday, 30 May 2019 at 12:56 pm
To: <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Batteries: single failed battery in the house bank, impact for other batteries

Mark,

Yes, I thought so to. These DEKA batteries are nothing special...they are ordinary workhorses that should give you a minimum of 3 years. Be careful because they look like Freedom batteries. They are not. Check the water at appropriate intervals.

I found this Panama dealer by going to DEKA headquarters at Penn Battery. My client bought from them without any problems. I think that they delivered to Shelter Bay. Be sure that you are clear on the connections and that you have jumpers to wire the pairs in series. The copper bars will not work. There is no issue with fit as these are Group 31.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970
My Calendar

Yacht School


Re: Batteries: copper bars will not work - be sure that you have jumpers to wire the pairs in series

Dan Carlson
 

Regarding the thread on using the copper connecting bars versus cables to connect battery pairs:  I had only one copper bar, connecting one of the pairs along the front of the box (BeBe has 12 batteries in 6 pairs).

There is another key benefit of cables: at the end of our 3rd season with the Deka batteries we had two batteries, in different pairs, develop internal shorts in the last month. With cables I was able to rematch the batteries into 5 new pairs without having to move all of the batteries around. And so far for the last month the new pairs we're all playing well together.  I will be replacing to whole set in the fall.

Regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM 387


On Thu, May 30, 2019, 1:52 PM Bill Rouse <brouse@... wrote:
I do not think the copper bars will work on all of the pairs...I just do not remember. Maybe Dan Carlson (CC'd) can answer this. They might, but you need to be prepared with jumper wires.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Thu, May 30, 2019 at 1:44 PM David Vogel <david.vogel@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

.> copper bars will not work

Whoa – this is a trap for the unwary!  Why is this?

We have the copper bridging bars, for use with the threaded studs with nut. Naturally enough, if we add battery balancer/s then perhaps some other arrangement may be needed.  But I was hoping to minimise any new work items just at the moment, aiming for drop-in bolt-in replacements.

David
Perigee, SM#396, Panama


From: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Reply-To: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Date: Thursday, 30 May 2019 at 12:56 pm
To: <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Batteries: single failed battery in the house bank, impact for other batteries

Mark,

Yes, I thought so to. These DEKA batteries are nothing special...they are ordinary workhorses that should give you a minimum of 3 years. Be careful because they look like Freedom batteries. They are not. Check the water at appropriate intervals.

I found this Panama dealer by going to DEKA headquarters at Penn Battery. My client bought from them without any problems. I think that they delivered to Shelter Bay. Be sure that you are clear on the connections and that you have jumpers to wire the pairs in series. The copper bars will not work. There is no issue with fit as these are Group 31.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970
My Calendar 

Yacht School


On Thu, May 30, 2019 at 12:40 PM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Bill,
 
That is a deal!!! We will probably take her up on that before we head out to the Pacific.
 
On another note – I heard, meaning I do not know for a fact – Batteries are very inexpensive in FP due to subsidies provide from the French Government to encourage solar.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Panama
www.creampuff.us
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2019 1:16 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Batteries: single failed battery in the house bank, impact for other batteries
 
David,
 
In Panama, you can contact Melani Beleño <compras.logistica@...> to have DEKA DC31DT lead acid batteries delivered to your boat at a dock
 
In April 2018 Melani wrote one of my clients the following: The price per units is $ 213.59, but We give you a special offer for $192.23 per units,  if you give us the used units could you have a extra discount. The cost of delivery is a $50.00 
 
Phone: (507) 322-3213 / 7 (507) 226-3693
 
 
Best,
 
Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970
My Calendar 

Yacht School
 
 
On Thu, May 30, 2019 at 12:04 PM David Vogel <david.vogel@...> wrote:
Hi Mark,

Thanks for that.  Yes, it’s all in the mix at the moment.

Lithium is not in the picture, mainly because of the need to change charging and management equipment & regimes.  Also, as you say, the risk of new tech on-board when heading out into the wilds.

I could grab some unknown-brand conventional GRP31 flooded lead acids for about USD200- per unit, available this week here in Panama.  Risk of early-failure, or short-life?  Hmmm – this is a big unknown, but have heard some horror-stories on batteries provided here in Panama.  BTW, standard no-name AGMs are about $450- here, off-the shelf.  But at least we’d be away.

Fireflies are under active consideration. Even if I might get one (or even two) dud batteries, I would still have 10 left – not ideal, of course, but still trucking.  With the ability for deeper discharge (than AGMs or conventional FLAs), having 5 pairs will give me approx. the same per-cycle capacity as 6-pairs of AGMs, with more cycles.

As it stands, I am running the risk-analysis on sailing away with only 5-pairs of my existing (3yo) AGMs operational (with one battery presently installed but not wired-in, held ‘in reserve’), knowing that I am exposed to losing another battery (or two).  Which would still leave me with 4-pairs, before I get the next opportunity replace the bank (in NZ or, under duress, in Tahiti).

It is an interesting dilemma to be facing.

I am open to all inputs and perspectives, just in case I am missing something in the heat of the moment.

Thanks again, and with kind regards also to Cindy please,

David&Leanne
SV Perigee, SM#396, Panama



On 30/5/19, 10:26 am, "Mark Erdos" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io on behalf of mcerdos@...> wrote:

    Hi David,

    The biggest issue I have with specialty batteries is the fact you are getting ready to sail to areas of the world where a single replacement of a like battery would be a big issue. Should you have a failure of one battery, you may find yourself in a situation again where you need to replace the entire bank or eliminate a pair. As for the warranty, will they ship a replacement world-wide? If it were me, I would stick with what I know to be readily available throughout the world. Just my unsolicited 2¢ worth.


    With best regards,

    Mark

    Skipper
    Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
    Currently cruising - Panama
    www.creampuff.us


    -----Original Message-----
    From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of David Vogel
    Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2019 10:27 AM
    To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
    Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Batteries: single failed battery in the house bank, impact for other batteries

    Thanks Bill, for the double-barrel response,

    Batteries: We are leaning towards replacing the whole lot with FIREFLYs, per Bill KINNEY on Harmonie.  If this does not prove possible within a reasonable time frame, we will disconnect the pair containing the remaining single from the pair that contained the dud battery, and head on out, anticipating replacement in NZ late 2020 if we can keep things going for that long, otherwise Tahiti.

    ONAN: In addition to replacing the Starter and –ve solenoid, I went through all the troubleshooting steps as suggested and per the Service Manual – all apparently OK and with no change – still a failure to crank.  When I finally got the technicians on board, they poked around finding nothing and eventually plugged in an old Control-Board from an ONAN 21kVa Genset.  This, apparently, has enough commonality with the 7MDKAV to enable our unit to crank, start and run (for 3 seconds before the protective mechanisms engaged and shut the unit down; this test repeated 3 times).  Thereby indicating that all our switches, relays etc are OK, but the PCB itself is at fault.  We’re n
    ow trying to source one of these control boards.

    Cheers,

    David&Leanne, PERIGEE, SM#396, Panama
    Bound for French Polynesia


    From: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
    Reply-To: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
    Date: Sunday, 26 May 2019 at 1:30 pm
    To: <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
    Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Batteries: single failed battery in the house bank, impact for other batteries

    I am not sure, and I believe you believe the same. With thousands of miles ahead of you and 3+ year old battery bank, I would consider changing the entire house bank, especially since getting 3-4 years is average for high-use Amels.

    Good on the lead acid start battery.

    When troubleshooting the Onan, I believe the weak point is the cable that runs inside from the negative connection post to the battery side of the Negative start solenoid.  The connection post where cables from the battery switches connect is located on the left side, facing, about half way down. I believe you can easily bypass this undersized cable by connecting a jumper from that connection post to the battery side of the negative start solenoid. You could also test the negative start solenoid by connecting that jumper cable to the starter side of the negative solenoid. 1 jumper cable can be used to test two items. If the problem turns out to be the negative start solenoid, don't leave that jumper on the starter side of the solenoid permanently.

    Best,

    CW Bill Rouse
    Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
    www.YachtSchool.us
    720 Winnie St
    Galveston Island, TX 77550
    +1(832) 380-4970

    On Sun, May 26, 2019, 11:24 AM David Vogel <david.vogel@...> wrote:
    Greetings all,

    Whilst trouble-shooting an unserviceable ONAN (failure to crank), I checked out the health of the 105Ah 800CCA AGM start battery (good), and house-bank (12x105Ah AGMs).  Start and house batteries were all AGM, same model and date-of-install (Sep'16).

    All tested OK, with the exception of one battery in the house bank, which failed the State-of-Charge test with an Open-Circuit-Voltage (OCV) of 11.00V (as measured, so no surprises here), unstable; and failed State-of-Health of CCA of 35.0A).
    The other battery in the pair containing the failed battery surprisingly tested OK, with SoC 12.72V [92%] and SoH CCA of 642A [91%].

    As an interim step, whilst considering broader options ...
    ... I replaced the good start-battery with a 100Ah/700CCA flooded lead-acid battery; removed the failed AGM battery from the house bank, and replaced it with the 'good' AGM start battery.  The performance of the house battery bank immediately improved, I guess due to the absence of the parasitic load of the failed battery.

    However, concerned about the remaining battery in the new pair contained the failed battery, I have been keeping a close eye on the charge volts, current, and temps of all batteries.  24 hours after the swap-out/in, during the second charge cycle, I noted high charging current to the new battery-pair containing the old-start battery.

    The smart-charger was ordering ~150Amps from the 175A/24V Leece-Neville (normal for the start-of-charge-cycle) - 5 battery-pairs were accepting about 20Amps each (OK and as expected, at ~20% of the '20-hour rate' of 105Ah), but the 'at risk' pair was accepting 40 to 50Amps.  Temps for the 5 'good' pairs were about 1ºC above ambient and stable; but the temp of the questionable pair was ambient +2ºC and rising.  I stopped the charge cycle after 30 minutes; and isolated the questionable pair from the house-bank by removing the bridging strap between the batteries in the pair.  Shortly after the cessation of the interrupted charge cycle, the temperature of the high-current pair peaked at 36.5ºC (ambient other batteries +2.5ºC).

    I am seeking clarification regarding: Is is likely that the remaining battery from the 'old pair' had already suffered irreversible damage (such as an internal short), thereby reducing internal resistance, thereby accepting a higher charge (than the other 'good' battery pairs).

    On the basis of temperature alone , I do not think I have suffered temperature-related damage to the old start battery.  However:

    Question - is it likely that 30-minutes of charge at twice the maximum recommend bulk/absorption current charge-rate has resulted in permanent damage to the previously 'good' start-battery?

    This discussion shared for the learning, and also for the benefit of trouble-shooting by other unfortunates who may in future find themselves in a similar predicament.

    Thanks in anticipation ...

    David
    SM#396/Perigee
    On anchor, Brisas, Pacific side of Panama
      Departure for the Marquesas pending the
        return of the ONAN to service

    Diagnostic tools: Magneti Marelli BT002 Battery Tester; FLIR TG165 Spot Thermal Camera; Voltcraft VC-595OLED Digital Clamp Multimeter.
    Note: the OLED display on the Voltcraft multimeter is impossible to read in direct sunlight, so next time I would choose a model with a different type of display.  Otherwise, this is a great tool, although I do not use the BlueTooth functionality.