Hello

A guest on board switched my ignition off whilst motoring.
Trying to be helpful.

The engine kept running but I only noticed a few mins later when I spotted the instruments were off

My Perkins control panel has a electric ignition switch that turns on the instruments and starts the pressure alarm etc and I presume power onto the starter etc

Then a momentary push button to start

To stop it’s an electric button.

Does any one know if running with the ignition off for a short while could cause problems ? I’m naive about these electrics but always assumed the shutdown order super important!

The main engine power switch was on throughout.

Many thanks in advance

Miles Maramu 162

Hi Bill 

Thanks for the detailed advice. I think using the Beta mounts was a mistake. Can you recommend the vetus or other manufacturers' mounts that are suitable for supporting the metal frame. The new engine is around 290 kg with gearbox.This info seems hard to come by and on the Vetus site there is nothing resembling the original donut shaped mounts. The originals were by Schwartz but googling that goes nowhere. We will order the rubber donuts inside the coupling asap.

Thanks again for your help

Graham

Thank you to all of you who have put up replies to my questions, all most useful and have given me a positive direction in which to head. I have no doubt this issue will be easily resolved once my engineer has the correct knowledge. Amel expertise is in short supply here in HK!

Hi all:  The other day one of my Amel original Compact 9 ACs started short cycling and I checked the Calpeda pump and found it was not running.  First thing to check in this failure mode was the run capacitor at the pump, and sure enough it was bulging and clearly fried.  I tripped off all the AC breakers, shorted across the terminals of the capacitor at the pump, removed the capacitor and installed a new one rated at 440 VAC.  During the installation process I received a mild electrical shock.  Still with ALL AC breakers tripped at the 220 Volt Panel in the galley I measured the voltage across the blue and brown wires at the pump I found there was 220 VAC.  Also there was 115 VAC from the blue OR brown wire measured to the motor case/yellow-green wire.  

WHERE IS THIS SNEAK VOLTAGE POWER TO THE CALPEDA PUMP COMING FROM?  
Steps taken so far:
1.  Verified shore power connections (I'm on the USA grid).  All shore power connections appears properly wired. 
2.  Verified none of the 220 VAC panel Diruptors was shorted (i.e. now voltage across any of them when tripped).  
3.  Visually inspected the Climma three unit relay box and found no visual evidence of anything amiss. I have not yet tested the individual contacts for each of the three relays.
4.  Disconnected the shore power and started the generator, with it running there is no voltage at the Calpeda with the AC (air conditioning) breakers open.  Reviewed the Amel rudimentary schematics and don't see anything different between K1 (the generator change over relay) for shore power vs generator power.  
5  Verified that the only thing that removes voltage at the pump with the shore power plunged in is to trip the GFCI breaker on the side of the 220 VAC panel. 

I consulted VECO NA and they confirmed there should not be voltage at the pump with the breakers open.  The installation manual for the Amel triple unit system says,  "4.5 MULTIPLE INSTALLATION:  4.5.1  The mains supply to the pump relay box must be independent from the air-conditioners and protected by a circuit breaker and an independent fuse.  The pump supply will come in parallel from each relay which is controlled by each air conditioner." (English translation from Italian is a bit wanting).  

My questions:  
1.  Where is the independent 220 VAC power for the relay box wired from? (i.e. what is its source?)  Clearly it isn't coming from any of the three AC circuit breakers.  
2.  Any thoughts on the most likely failure mode to allow voltage at the Calpeda  when on shore power but not when running on the generator (in my mind that eliminates a stuck contact on one of the relays in the Climma relay box as the generator also uses those same relays).
3.  Anybody out there found a similar situation?

Thanks for your thoughts. 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335
(just down the dock from s/v/ Delos here at Puerto Del Rey Marina in Fajardo Puerto Rico)

Hello Olivier,

thank you very much for your hint. We asked AMEL for the rubber mounts. Seems like if they can deliver them. The only thing we still didn‘t figure out is how the central big rubber is fixed to the bottom of the mount. Is there maybe a screw? Probably we will see how it works, when the mount is disabled. But would be nice to have an idea in advance. 

Danke dir!

Frederic

The "C" drive is in two assemblies:

• the upper unit (that is coupled to the engine transmission) weighs, I would estimate, about 80 pounds. Below the gearbox of this upper unit is what I recall Olivier calling the "trumpet" which has about a 3 inch  wide sleeve of neoprene-like gasket material around it where it engages the hull structure sealing the flange around the vertical drive shaft hole. Around that is the hose clamped to both the hull flange and the trumpet.
• The upper unit is supported, then in three places: at both sides of the top by the steel cross members bolted to the engine angle iron stringers and by the trumpet resting on the hull with the gasket in between. None of its weight is carried by the keel.
• The lower unit weighs, I'd estimate, about 50 pounds and is supported by the keel at the bolt. As I recall there were two washers (shims) under the lower unit on the bolt, plus a rubber sleeve and steel compression sleeve around the bolt. The top is sealed with silicone after the bolt is secured..
• There is a lifting eye on the engine room overhead straight above the upper unit to facilitate removal and adjustment with a block and tackle. (Feel around inside the insulation.)

If your engineer replaced all the engine frame mounts I could see the possibility of the "C" drive being askew. If he just did the engine then it sounds like an issue with the engine-to-C drive coupling.

Good luck with it.
Craig SN68 Sangaris, Delray Beach, Fl

Hello everyone, hello amelowners,

we are new to this group and have a problem with our Mango, we want to change our engine bearings on the Perkins 4.236 because they are still the first ones and the engine is quite noisy. Does anybody have an idea where to get some spare or how we can easily manufacture some similar parts for replacing the old ones? 
Maybe someone replaced his bearings already. I have attached a picture of one of the bearings.

Thank you very much and all the best.

Frederic Fießer on Mango No. 14

This was probably the most difficult sourcing project ever for me on SM 422. I spent hours and hours but settled on the simplehuman 4.5 liter round waste bin. It looks nicer than the old plastic one (it's metal) and so far has been durable. And it fits perfectly. Hope this helps.

David!

I too have this problem, and unable to source the originals.

Does anyone know of a good replacement brand/model?

#seekingnewtrashbinsforOGAmel

-Jer

--
Jeremy Hermanns - "Jer"
SVCerulean.com
Maramu #105
Marina Del Rey, CA

Hi Andrew,

We have booked 8 days in Girona from the 27th April to the 5th May.

We would love to come and see your Amel at your convenience.

This really is very kind of you.

Many thanks
Mark