Date   

Re: Volvo D3-110 belt changes

Theo s/v Paloma
 
Edited

On my Amel 50 with the Volvo D3-110 engine, the second alternator (Mastervolt 24V 110A, part number 48224110) is on a separate belt as the seawater pump. This is the way the engine came in a crate.



Theo
s/v Paloma, Amel 50 #18


locked Re: AMEL 55

Aldo Roldan
 

Keen observation on most of the issues noted by Davi.

  I moved from a SM2000 to a 55  four years ago. While it took me sometime to get used to the change and I missed the SM2000, (who doesn’t experience that after changing boats?), after four years, I am extremely pleased I made the move.  Why? Overall a more livable, airy, brighter and a faster boat. Higher freeboard a powerful bowthruster, a true, real davitts, and a many other features. Storage? Gigantic lockers in the cockpit and bow.  Regarding the stern lazarette, I am not exaggerating if I say that you could store your Dinghy fully inflated.

In a friendly spirit, I say bring it on if you perceive other disadvantages ! I am sure I will have an answer that would please most.

On May 26, 2019, at 8:03 AM, Davi Rozgonyi <davi.rozgonyi@...> wrote:

Hi there, so... I have a Super Maramu. So take this with a grain of salt...apologies to those who might have a 55. 

I have a few friends with 55s, and have explored them inside and out. I was disappointed. We are a three person family with three cats living aboard full time also. Storage space was for starters extremely important. Because of all the side windows, there is an incredible lack of interior cabinet space on the 55s (and to a lesser extent, even the 54s where the windows are cut). I don't think I could live full time on here lacking even one cabinet on this SM :D There are a million windows on the aft cabintop where the SM has a sundeck. It seems difficult to make a sundeck over all those hatches, and the sundeck is one of the best things about the SM. The 55s I've seen also have been cutter rigged. I personally dislike that because it eliminates the best spot to best secure a dinghy, ie the foredeck. In our case, a 3.3m all aluminum. It would never fit on a 55. The bow locker on the 55 seemed extremely small, at least the opening. We keep a parasailor in one of the SM's two large bow lockers; I doubt it would fit in a 55. Last but not least, the cockpit. Objectively, it is a waste of space. I spend 75% of my time in the cockpit, why make it smaller and harder to stretch out on watch?? The port bench does not extend past the captains chair (ends at it actually, making it about 5 feet long instead of the SM's 7 or 8 feet), and the whole cockpit is narrower by 2 or 3 feet due to the winches being on the outside of the hard enclosure. The cushions are narrower and the table seemed to be permanently installed in the center of things. There are giant glass windows but they are so far in front of the wheel that it effectively becomes a meter long dashboard where putting anything is awkward or dangerous, ie a waste of space. I also don't know if you can pop up out of the hard top of a 55 ( i dont think so) when you need a better look or just because it feels nice... And all of this for a price tag 3-5 times what a SM costs. 

In short, being a full time livaboard, I would never even trade my SM straight up for a 55 (or a 54 for similar reasons, altho the 54 seems much better value for a liveaboard). If I had the scratch to buy a 55, I would buy the newest SM redline 2000 I could find, and upgrade her new everything and with every little tweak (a king size bed in the back is the best one, followed by a hydraulic table in the saloon that turns it into a king size movie bed ;)  And then put the other 400k left over in my cruising kitty. 


Re: Wiring to aft head SM243

 

You win  the "Head Lottery!"

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 8:37 AM karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Turns out I have a bad motor, a bad switch, and a bad connection between wire from switch to wire from motor.  No wonder it doesn’t work! ;-)>

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On May 26, 2019, at 9:11 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Kent,

Your issue is most probably the switch. There is only one feed wire to the switch.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 7:36 PM karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Mark,
I just went back to take a pic and pulled the wires out where I could see markings on them. I realized there is only one feed (marked “alim”), the other wires marked “pompe wc” and “Motor wc” go to the pumps.  So I guess it’s a problem between the switch and the macerator pump.  That’ll be a lot easier to figure out.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On May 25, 2019, at 7:18 PM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Kent,

 

Just a guess: What about at the fill pump? The + wire could be connected in series.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 7:31 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Wiring to aft head SM243

 

Ahoy Amelians,
I’m hoping someone can help me figure out where to look for a break in the connection from the aft head circuit breaker to the aft head switch.  The fill pump has power but the macerator Pump doesn’t.  There’s only one + wire at the breaker which controls both pumps, so somewhere between the breaker and the switches, there’s a connection that splits the + into two legs to the two pumps.  I assume that’s the likely place for there to be a disconnect???
unfortunately the single wire from the breaker disappears a large bundle of wires that goes up the forward engine room bulkhead and into that huge spaghetti bowl of wires above the galley sink.  At the head switch, all wires disappear into a chase going forward. Tracing it’s going to be a challenge, so I was hoping someone might know where it divides into feeds to both pumps.
any help greatly appreciated.
Kent & Iris
SM243 Kristy


Re: Wiring to aft head SM243

karkauai
 

Turns out I have a bad motor, a bad switch, and a bad connection between wire from switch to wire from motor.  No wonder it doesn’t work! ;-)>

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On May 26, 2019, at 9:11 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Kent,

Your issue is most probably the switch. There is only one feed wire to the switch.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 7:36 PM karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Mark,
I just went back to take a pic and pulled the wires out where I could see markings on them. I realized there is only one feed (marked “alim”), the other wires marked “pompe wc” and “Motor wc” go to the pumps.  So I guess it’s a problem between the switch and the macerator pump.  That’ll be a lot easier to figure out.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On May 25, 2019, at 7:18 PM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Kent,

 

Just a guess: What about at the fill pump? The + wire could be connected in series.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 7:31 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Wiring to aft head SM243

 

Ahoy Amelians,
I’m hoping someone can help me figure out where to look for a break in the connection from the aft head circuit breaker to the aft head switch.  The fill pump has power but the macerator Pump doesn’t.  There’s only one + wire at the breaker which controls both pumps, so somewhere between the breaker and the switches, there’s a connection that splits the + into two legs to the two pumps.  I assume that’s the likely place for there to be a disconnect???
unfortunately the single wire from the breaker disappears a large bundle of wires that goes up the forward engine room bulkhead and into that huge spaghetti bowl of wires above the galley sink.  At the head switch, all wires disappear into a chase going forward. Tracing it’s going to be a challenge, so I was hoping someone might know where it divides into feeds to both pumps.
any help greatly appreciated.
Kent & Iris
SM243 Kristy


Genoa Fair Leads

Capt. Steve Bode <whatsup@...>
 

Hey, Group.

What's the latest best answer on replacing the Genoa Fair Leads? My springs are broken, one wheel is chipped. Tried taking it apart, but can't figure out how to get the pin out of the center once the eye bolts are removed. Is that center bar screwed in? At $750 a piece online, I'm not jazzed about replacing the whole car.
Replacement car without extra hardware needed to adapt to Amel lead system:

Tags: Genoa Fair Lead, Genoa Track, Jib Car Lead, Jib fairlead, Genoa Fairlead, Foresail Track


Steve Bode, Captain of Sailing Vessel Intention
Currently Drydocked at ANT Yat Servis
Bodrum Marina Teknik Servisler
Neyzen Tevfik Cad. No. 5
48400 Bodrum, Mulga, Turkiye

Amel Super Maramu #117 (1994) 
+1 415-710-6659 voice/text/whatsapp


Re: Engine room lining on Amel 54

 


Please keep us posted as to how this works. Every 54 owner will be very interested.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 6:03 AM Martin Bevan <Martin.bevanhome@...> wrote:
Thank you for all the responses about the engine room.  I tried the plastic paint suggestion. Plasti Dip is available in the UK. It comes as a spray or brush on and there are the appropriate thinners and a primer for use on non-porous surfaces. It adheres well to the raw foam and 2-3 coats brushed on has given a tough surface. It is too early to say how well it will last. It certainly improves the appearance of the engine room, even just patching in. 


Re: Wiring to aft head SM243

 

Kent,

Your issue is most probably the switch. There is only one feed wire to the switch.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 7:36 PM karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Mark,
I just went back to take a pic and pulled the wires out where I could see markings on them. I realized there is only one feed (marked “alim”), the other wires marked “pompe wc” and “Motor wc” go to the pumps.  So I guess it’s a problem between the switch and the macerator pump.  That’ll be a lot easier to figure out.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On May 25, 2019, at 7:18 PM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Kent,

 

Just a guess: What about at the fill pump? The + wire could be connected in series.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 7:31 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Wiring to aft head SM243

 

Ahoy Amelians,
I’m hoping someone can help me figure out where to look for a break in the connection from the aft head circuit breaker to the aft head switch.  The fill pump has power but the macerator Pump doesn’t.  There’s only one + wire at the breaker which controls both pumps, so somewhere between the breaker and the switches, there’s a connection that splits the + into two legs to the two pumps.  I assume that’s the likely place for there to be a disconnect???
unfortunately the single wire from the breaker disappears a large bundle of wires that goes up the forward engine room bulkhead and into that huge spaghetti bowl of wires above the galley sink.  At the head switch, all wires disappear into a chase going forward. Tracing it’s going to be a challenge, so I was hoping someone might know where it divides into feeds to both pumps.
any help greatly appreciated.
Kent & Iris
SM243 Kristy


"heavier lower stays than the original"

 

John,

I am very curious about this statement: "...and followed the advice on having heavier lower stays than the original."

I was about to post something about this. Can you tell me where or how you heard this advice?

Unfortunately, there is nothing in the manual about running backstays, and some 54s have running backstays that are too short to use. Oliver Henrichsen, offers good advice if your running back stays are not rigged with leveraged block/tackle with a cam cleat similar to what you use for preventers. I have seen 54s with this type of block/tackle rigged to each running back stay. BTW, I like to attach the running back stay on the chain plate near the genoa block. Oliver did not go into detail, but I suspect that he attaches a block for the running back stay on the cain plate, then runs it to the small winch on the cockpit coaming. 

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Fri, May 24, 2019 at 12:08 PM John via Groups.Io <thejluto=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
I have owned an Amel 54 for only a few months.   As most 54s, the boat is rigged with genoa and staysail, and yes I have the reinforced mast with a little prebend, and followed the advice on having heavier lower stays than the original. And I have the dyneema lines ready to be used as running backstays ... but no tackle (yet) at the back end of the running backstays.

(My previous boat had a genoa and self-tacking staysail, but had lower forward stays and adjustable hydraulic tension on the aft stays to adjust the mainsail shape, and no running backstays.)

So, I looked through the Amel owner manual and user guide. I found no pictures or advice on using the running backstays.  So I would appreciate a little advice on 3 items

1) Do you have any pictures of your running backstays in action, showing how you rigged the tackle and maybe the size of the tackle..

2) When running downwind, do use them if you have staysail and Genoa (or gennaker) set and are running hard? 

3) When going upwind do you use them only when using staysail in a heavy blow ??

Any help would be appreciated ... especially a picture or two.

John,
Justina (Austin TX)  A54 #34, in France


Re: Engine room lining on Amel 54

Martin Bevan
 

Thank you for all the responses about the engine room.  I tried the plastic paint suggestion. Plasti Dip is available in the UK. It comes as a spray or brush on and there are the appropriate thinners and a primer for use on non-porous surfaces. It adheres well to the raw foam and 2-3 coats brushed on has given a tough surface. It is too early to say how well it will last. It certainly improves the appearance of the engine room, even just patching in. 


Re: Any SM owners use a Beta engine??

Gerhard Mueller
 

I am not shure if you also need to change the gearbox when changing the engine. Perhaps someone here has a hint.

--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Any SM owners use a Beta engine??

ngtnewington Newington
 

I had a Beta 50 hp on my last boat. Ran sweet, started first time over 10 years.
Nick
Amelia 
AML54 -019 in Mahon 


On 26 May 2019, at 07:35, Davi Rozgonyi <davi.rozgonyi@...> wrote:

Ciao y'all.... Davi here on SM#56, Wake. So I've been trying to have my Perkins Prima M80T rebuilt for some months now with disappointing results. Constant gray/white smoke and spitting oil or diesel on the water, eating a liter of oil every 50 hours or so. Even after twice having engine removed, pistons checked, head checked, FI pump rebuilt, injectors tested, new turbo installed.... stumped. Two different mechanics. The first I can now say botched the job, but the second is pretty brilliant and he is at the point where he wants to pull the whole thing to recheck the other work done starting at the pistons again. 

But I am getting fed up. I cannot afford any more high-season-in-the-Med marina layup for weeks. I will be able to limp through the summer here in Italy/Greece with it as is before wintering back here in Palermo, where there is a Beta dealer. I've looked at these engines before, and know they are strong, simple, naturally aspirated, cheaper parts, etc. Price is pretty good too.

So I'm asking if any of you have Betas or can tell me some things about them I might be missing vis a vis a SM repower. They make a 75 horse model, looks pretty sweet, I've only heard good things about them. Any real life insight from ye salty souls??? 


locked Re: AMEL 55

Davi Rozgonyi
 

Hi there, so... I have a Super Maramu. So take this with a grain of salt...apologies to those who might have a 55. 

I have a few friends with 55s, and have explored them inside and out. I was disappointed. We are a three person family with three cats living aboard full time also. Storage space was for starters extremely important. Because of all the side windows, there is an incredible lack of interior cabinet space on the 55s (and to a lesser extent, even the 54s where the windows are cut). I don't think I could live full time on here lacking even one cabinet on this SM :D There are a million windows on the aft cabintop where the SM has a sundeck. It seems difficult to make a sundeck over all those hatches, and the sundeck is one of the best things about the SM. The 55s I've seen also have been cutter rigged. I personally dislike that because it eliminates the best spot to best secure a dinghy, ie the foredeck. In our case, a 3.3m all aluminum. It would never fit on a 55. The bow locker on the 55 seemed extremely small, at least the opening. We keep a parasailor in one of the SM's two large bow lockers; I doubt it would fit in a 55. Last but not least, the cockpit. Objectively, it is a waste of space. I spend 75% of my time in the cockpit, why make it smaller and harder to stretch out on watch?? The port bench does not extend past the captains chair (ends at it actually, making it about 5 feet long instead of the SM's 7 or 8 feet), and the whole cockpit is narrower by 2 or 3 feet due to the winches being on the outside of the hard enclosure. The cushions are narrower and the table seemed to be permanently installed in the center of things. There are giant glass windows but they are so far in front of the wheel that it effectively becomes a meter long dashboard where putting anything is awkward or dangerous, ie a waste of space. I also don't know if you can pop up out of the hard top of a 55 ( i dont think so) when you need a better look or just because it feels nice... And all of this for a price tag 3-5 times what a SM costs. 

In short, being a full time livaboard, I would never even trade my SM straight up for a 55 (or a 54 for similar reasons, altho the 54 seems much better value for a liveaboard). If I had the scratch to buy a 55, I would buy the newest SM redline 2000 I could find, and upgrade her new everything and with every little tweak (a king size bed in the back is the best one, followed by a hydraulic table in the saloon that turns it into a king size movie bed ;)  And then put the other 400k left over in my cruising kitty. 


Any SM owners use a Beta engine??

Davi Rozgonyi
 

Ciao y'all.... Davi here on SM#56, Wake. So I've been trying to have my Perkins Prima M80T rebuilt for some months now with disappointing results. Constant gray/white smoke and spitting oil or diesel on the water, eating a liter of oil every 50 hours or so. Even after twice having engine removed, pistons checked, head checked, FI pump rebuilt, injectors tested, new turbo installed.... stumped. Two different mechanics. The first I can now say botched the job, but the second is pretty brilliant and he is at the point where he wants to pull the whole thing to recheck the other work done starting at the pistons again. 

But I am getting fed up. I cannot afford any more high-season-in-the-Med marina layup for weeks. I will be able to limp through the summer here in Italy/Greece with it as is before wintering back here in Palermo, where there is a Beta dealer. I've looked at these engines before, and know they are strong, simple, naturally aspirated, cheaper parts, etc. Price is pretty good too.

So I'm asking if any of you have Betas or can tell me some things about them I might be missing vis a vis a SM repower. They make a 75 horse model, looks pretty sweet, I've only heard good things about them. Any real life insight from ye salty souls??? 


Re: Wiring to aft head SM243

karkauai
 

Hi Mark,
I just went back to take a pic and pulled the wires out where I could see markings on them. I realized there is only one feed (marked “alim”), the other wires marked “pompe wc” and “Motor wc” go to the pumps.  So I guess it’s a problem between the switch and the macerator pump.  That’ll be a lot easier to figure out.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On May 25, 2019, at 7:18 PM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Kent,

 

Just a guess: What about at the fill pump? The + wire could be connected in series.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 7:31 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Wiring to aft head SM243

 

Ahoy Amelians,
I’m hoping someone can help me figure out where to look for a break in the connection from the aft head circuit breaker to the aft head switch.  The fill pump has power but the macerator Pump doesn’t.  There’s only one + wire at the breaker which controls both pumps, so somewhere between the breaker and the switches, there’s a connection that splits the + into two legs to the two pumps.  I assume that’s the likely place for there to be a disconnect???
unfortunately the single wire from the breaker disappears a large bundle of wires that goes up the forward engine room bulkhead and into that huge spaghetti bowl of wires above the galley sink.  At the head switch, all wires disappear into a chase going forward. Tracing it’s going to be a challenge, so I was hoping someone might know where it divides into feeds to both pumps.
any help greatly appreciated.
Kent & Iris
SM243 Kristy


Re: Wiring to aft head SM243

Mark Erdos
 

Kent,

 

Just a guess: What about at the fill pump? The + wire could be connected in series.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 7:31 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Wiring to aft head SM243

 

Ahoy Amelians,
I’m hoping someone can help me figure out where to look for a break in the connection from the aft head circuit breaker to the aft head switch.  The fill pump has power but the macerator Pump doesn’t.  There’s only one + wire at the breaker which controls both pumps, so somewhere between the breaker and the switches, there’s a connection that splits the + into two legs to the two pumps.  I assume that’s the likely place for there to be a disconnect???
unfortunately the single wire from the breaker disappears a large bundle of wires that goes up the forward engine room bulkhead and into that huge spaghetti bowl of wires above the galley sink.  At the head switch, all wires disappear into a chase going forward. Tracing it’s going to be a challenge, so I was hoping someone might know where it divides into feeds to both pumps.
any help greatly appreciated.
Kent & Iris
SM243 Kristy


Wiring to aft head SM243

karkauai
 

Ahoy Amelians,
I’m hoping someone can help me figure out where to look for a break in the connection from the aft head circuit breaker to the aft head switch.  The fill pump has power but the macerator Pump doesn’t.  There’s only one + wire at the breaker which controls both pumps, so somewhere between the breaker and the switches, there’s a connection that splits the + into two legs to the two pumps.  I assume that’s the likely place for there to be a disconnect???
unfortunately the single wire from the breaker disappears a large bundle of wires that goes up the forward engine room bulkhead and into that huge spaghetti bowl of wires above the galley sink.  At the head switch, all wires disappear into a chase going forward. Tracing it’s going to be a challenge, so I was hoping someone might know where it divides into feeds to both pumps.
any help greatly appreciated.
Kent & Iris
SM243 Kristy


Re: Volvo D3-110 belt changes

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi Alex

There is a Mastervolt 24V 110A Model: 90847, running on the same belt as the seawater pump, etc. Only one Belt. 
Why are you asking?

Best regards
Ruedi

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Freitag, 24. Mai 2019 um 18:36
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D3-110 belt changes

Hoi Ruedi,
Could you please let me know what 24V alternator is installed on Wasabi?
Thanks, Alex


Re: New sails

Ken Powers SV Aquarius
 

Aquarius has a complete set of Hydranet Sails from Qsails, and so far we love them.  We have sailed from Trinidad to New Zealand, and now in Fiji.  The Qsails still look and perform like new.  

The cool thing about buying from Qsails is THEY KNOW YOUR BOAT, and they can provide you sails the fit the first time.  All you have to give them is your Hull Number.  

I told them that I want stock sails for Hull Number 262.  I bought a complete set Main, Mizzen, Genoa, and a Ballooner, and they all fit perfect, the first time.  

You can see the sails on Youtube - Sailing Aquarius Around the World.  


Ken
SailingAquarius.com
Aquarius SM2K #262


Re: Running Backstays

Oliver Henrichsen, SV Vela Nautica
 

Hi,

You use them with the staysail, you need to set the one on the luvside. I bring it down to a bock and from there on the small winch to give a counter force on the mast where the top of staysail is attached.

Oliver from Vela Nautica Amel 54

Sent from my Huawei Mobile


-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Running Backstays
From: "John via Groups.Io"
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
CC:


I have owned an Amel 54 for only a few months.   As most 54s, the boat is rigged with genoa and staysail, and yes I have the reinforced mast with a little prebend, and followed the advice on having heavier lower stays than the original. And I have the dyneema lines ready to be used as running backstays ... but no tackle (yet) at the back end of the running backstays.

(My previous boat had a genoa and self-tacking staysail, but had lower forward stays and adjustable hydraulic tension on the aft stays to adjust the mainsail shape, and no running backstays.)

So, I looked through the Amel owner manual and user guide. I found no pictures or advice on using the running backstays.  So I would appreciate a little advice on 3 items

1) Do you have any pictures of your running backstays in action, showing how you rigged the tackle and maybe the size of the tackle..

2) When running downwind, do use them if you have staysail and Genoa (or gennaker) set and are running hard? 

3) When going upwind do you use them only when using staysail in a heavy blow ??

Any help would be appreciated ... especially a picture or two.

John,
Justina (Austin TX)  A54 #34, in France


Re: Bow locker floors/hawse pipe replacement project recap

James Alton
 

Nick,

   You can buy fibreglass exhaust and better IMO, heavier walled shaft log and rudder post tubing in various sizes,  I am thinking of using the latter after figuring out a way to install some replaceable plastic (probably Delrin/Acetal) bushings.  I will definitely glass the tubing in at both ends so that it becomes a structural part of the boat as was down originally on my boat.   I like the idea of a strong compression member above the floor of the chain locker floor in case the chain ever somehow balled up and jammed which could generate a lot of force!  So far the original work (bow locker floor and the chain pipe) on my boat is still fine after 31 years so I think that the selection of the galvanized pipe was a pretty good choice.  Stainless pipe being more noble and of substantial mass would make a less favourable couple with the chain causing corrosion to occur sooner unfortunately.  

   We will be in Sardinia pretty soon as well, have a nice sail over and who knows maybe we will cross paths!

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
Arbatax, Sardinia,  Italy

On May 24, 2019, at 12:11 PM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

How about using pvc pipe and glassing it in place and wrapping it in glass.?
Nick
Amelia AML 54-019 anchored in Menorca. Mistral about to kick in so waiting to ride it’s coat tails to Sardinia maybe Monday


On 24 May 2019, at 15:05, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> wrote:

Thomas:

I think I just realized why Amel didn't use SS pipe for the hawse pipe.  I just priced a 31 inch long pice of 316L SS tubing (OD 3 inch with 0.25 inch wall thickness).  $10 US per inch or $310 for the piece.  Yikes!!  a bit of 1/4 into 316L plate brought the total to $375.00.  The same in galvanized pipe would probably be $10.   

Of course using stainless would alleviate the grief we are all suffering in replacing this bit of kit.  Simultaneously it would prevent us from gaining an intimate knowledge of our boats systems / weak points. 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335
Puerto Rico