Date   

Re: Volvo D3-110 belt changes

Alexander Ramseyer
 

It seems there are different belt configurations out there. A mechanic in St. Martin assumed that the three aggregats combined put to much stress on the belt. I also heard that AMEL originally had even more powerful 24V alternators installed, but had to change this because of that problem.


Batteries: single failed battery in the house bank, impact for other batteries

David Vogel
 

Greetings all,

Whilst trouble-shooting an unserviceable ONAN (failure to crank), I checked out the health of the 105Ah 800CCA AGM start battery (good), and house-bank (12x105Ah AGMs). Start and house batteries were all AGM, same model and date-of-install (Sep'16).

All tested OK, with the exception of one battery in the house bank, which failed the State-of-Charge test with an Open-Circuit-Voltage (OCV) of 11.00V (as measured, so no surprises here), unstable; and failed State-of-Health of CCA of 35.0A).
The other battery in the pair containing the failed battery surprisingly tested OK, with SoC 12.72V [92%] and SoH CCA of 642A [91%].

As an interim step, whilst considering broader options ...
... I replaced the good start-battery with a 100Ah/700CCA flooded lead-acid battery; removed the failed AGM battery from the house bank, and replaced it with the 'good' AGM start battery. The performance of the house battery bank immediately improved, I guess due to the absence of the parasitic load of the failed battery.

However, concerned about the remaining battery in the new pair contained the failed battery, I have been keeping a close eye on the charge volts, current, and temps of all batteries. 24 hours after the swap-out/in, during the second charge cycle, I noted high charging current to the new battery-pair containing the old-start battery.

The smart-charger was ordering ~150Amps from the 175A/24V Leece-Neville (normal for the start-of-charge-cycle) - 5 battery-pairs were accepting about 20Amps each (OK and as expected, at ~20% of the '20-hour rate' of 105Ah), but the 'at risk' pair was accepting 40 to 50Amps. Temps for the 5 'good' pairs were about 1ºC above ambient and stable; but the temp of the questionable pair was ambient +2ºC and rising. I stopped the charge cycle after 30 minutes; and isolated the questionable pair from the house-bank by removing the bridging strap between the batteries in the pair. Shortly after the cessation of the interrupted charge cycle, the temperature of the high-current pair peaked at 36.5ºC (ambient other batteries +2.5ºC).

I am seeking clarification regarding: Is is likely that the remaining battery from the 'old pair' had already suffered irreversible damage (such as an internal short), thereby reducing internal resistance, thereby accepting a higher charge (than the other 'good' battery pairs).

On the basis of temperature alone , I do not think I have suffered temperature-related damage to the old start battery. However:

Question - is it likely that 30-minutes of charge at twice the maximum recommend bulk/absorption current charge-rate has resulted in permanent damage to the previously 'good' start-battery?

This discussion shared for the learning, and also for the benefit of trouble-shooting by other unfortunates who may in future find themselves in a similar predicament.

Thanks in anticipation ...

David
SM#396/Perigee
On anchor, Brisas, Pacific side of Panama
Departure for the Marquesas pending the
return of the ONAN to service

Diagnostic tools: Magneti Marelli BT002 Battery Tester; FLIR TG165 Spot Thermal Camera; Voltcraft VC-595OLED Digital Clamp Multimeter.
Note: the OLED display on the Voltcraft multimeter is impossible to read in direct sunlight, so next time I would choose a model with a different type of display. Otherwise, this is a great tool, although I do not use the BlueTooth functionality.


Re: Any SM owners use a Beta engine??

James Alton
 

Davi,

  Really sorry to hear about your engine woes and the disruption to your Med. cruising.  Has your mechanic verified that the compression is up to spec. on all cylinders after the rebuild?   I have a customer who installed a Beta 50 8 years ago and loves the engine, no issues.  The Beta is based on the Kubota block.  We had a Kubota tractor that was high time which gave excellent service, never opened the engine. 

Best of luck,
James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On May 26, 2019, at 2:35 AM, Davi Rozgonyi <davi.rozgonyi@...> wrote:

Ciao y'all.... Davi here on SM#56, Wake. So I've been trying to have my Perkins Prima M80T rebuilt for some months now with disappointing results. Constant gray/white smoke and spitting oil or diesel on the water, eating a liter of oil every 50 hours or so. Even after twice having engine removed, pistons checked, head checked, FI pump rebuilt, injectors tested, new turbo installed.... stumped. Two different mechanics. The first I can now say botched the job, but the second is pretty brilliant and he is at the point where he wants to pull the whole thing to recheck the other work done starting at the pistons again. 

But I am getting fed up. I cannot afford any more high-season-in-the-Med marina layup for weeks. I will be able to limp through the summer here in Italy/Greece with it as is before wintering back here in Palermo, where there is a Beta dealer. I've looked at these engines before, and know they are strong, simple, naturally aspirated, cheaper parts, etc. Price is pretty good too.

So I'm asking if any of you have Betas or can tell me some things about them I might be missing vis a vis a SM repower. They make a 75 horse model, looks pretty sweet, I've only heard good things about them. Any real life insight from ye salty souls??? 


Re: Volvo D3-110 belt changes

 

Theo, do you know which model your D3 110 is? Is it model "H" or different?

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 10:57 AM s/v Paloma <sailingpaloma1@...> wrote:

[Edited Message Follows]

On my Amel 50 with the Volvo D3-110 engine, the second alternator (Mastervolt 24V 110A, part number 48224110) is on a separate belt as the seawater pump. This is the way the engine came in a crate.



Theo
s/v Paloma, Amel 50 #18


Re: Any SM owners use a Beta engine??

Dan Wilcox
 

Hi Davi,  I just purchased a Beta 85 which should be delivered next week.  I'm installing the CS version of the control panel today, and it looks like it will fit perfectly.  I'm happy to share pictures if you would like, or let you know how the install goes over the next 3 weeks.  So far I have been very happy working with Stan, the US dealer.

Thanks, Dan
Feierabend SM #86

On Sunday, May 26, 2019, 3:28:40 AM PDT, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:


I am not shure if you also need to change the gearbox when changing the engine. Perhaps someone here has a hint.

--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Volvo D3-110 belt changes

Theo s/v Paloma
 
Edited

On my Amel 50 with the Volvo D3-110 engine, the second alternator (Mastervolt 24V 110A, part number 48224110) is on a separate belt as the seawater pump. This is the way the engine came in a crate.



Theo
s/v Paloma, Amel 50 #18


locked Re: AMEL 55

Aldo Roldan
 

Keen observation on most of the issues noted by Davi.

  I moved from a SM2000 to a 55  four years ago. While it took me sometime to get used to the change and I missed the SM2000, (who doesn’t experience that after changing boats?), after four years, I am extremely pleased I made the move.  Why? Overall a more livable, airy, brighter and a faster boat. Higher freeboard a powerful bowthruster, a true, real davitts, and a many other features. Storage? Gigantic lockers in the cockpit and bow.  Regarding the stern lazarette, I am not exaggerating if I say that you could store your Dinghy fully inflated.

In a friendly spirit, I say bring it on if you perceive other disadvantages ! I am sure I will have an answer that would please most.

On May 26, 2019, at 8:03 AM, Davi Rozgonyi <davi.rozgonyi@...> wrote:

Hi there, so... I have a Super Maramu. So take this with a grain of salt...apologies to those who might have a 55. 

I have a few friends with 55s, and have explored them inside and out. I was disappointed. We are a three person family with three cats living aboard full time also. Storage space was for starters extremely important. Because of all the side windows, there is an incredible lack of interior cabinet space on the 55s (and to a lesser extent, even the 54s where the windows are cut). I don't think I could live full time on here lacking even one cabinet on this SM :D There are a million windows on the aft cabintop where the SM has a sundeck. It seems difficult to make a sundeck over all those hatches, and the sundeck is one of the best things about the SM. The 55s I've seen also have been cutter rigged. I personally dislike that because it eliminates the best spot to best secure a dinghy, ie the foredeck. In our case, a 3.3m all aluminum. It would never fit on a 55. The bow locker on the 55 seemed extremely small, at least the opening. We keep a parasailor in one of the SM's two large bow lockers; I doubt it would fit in a 55. Last but not least, the cockpit. Objectively, it is a waste of space. I spend 75% of my time in the cockpit, why make it smaller and harder to stretch out on watch?? The port bench does not extend past the captains chair (ends at it actually, making it about 5 feet long instead of the SM's 7 or 8 feet), and the whole cockpit is narrower by 2 or 3 feet due to the winches being on the outside of the hard enclosure. The cushions are narrower and the table seemed to be permanently installed in the center of things. There are giant glass windows but they are so far in front of the wheel that it effectively becomes a meter long dashboard where putting anything is awkward or dangerous, ie a waste of space. I also don't know if you can pop up out of the hard top of a 55 ( i dont think so) when you need a better look or just because it feels nice... And all of this for a price tag 3-5 times what a SM costs. 

In short, being a full time livaboard, I would never even trade my SM straight up for a 55 (or a 54 for similar reasons, altho the 54 seems much better value for a liveaboard). If I had the scratch to buy a 55, I would buy the newest SM redline 2000 I could find, and upgrade her new everything and with every little tweak (a king size bed in the back is the best one, followed by a hydraulic table in the saloon that turns it into a king size movie bed ;)  And then put the other 400k left over in my cruising kitty. 


Re: Wiring to aft head SM243

 

You win  the "Head Lottery!"

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 8:37 AM karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Turns out I have a bad motor, a bad switch, and a bad connection between wire from switch to wire from motor.  No wonder it doesn’t work! ;-)>

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On May 26, 2019, at 9:11 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Kent,

Your issue is most probably the switch. There is only one feed wire to the switch.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 7:36 PM karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Mark,
I just went back to take a pic and pulled the wires out where I could see markings on them. I realized there is only one feed (marked “alim”), the other wires marked “pompe wc” and “Motor wc” go to the pumps.  So I guess it’s a problem between the switch and the macerator pump.  That’ll be a lot easier to figure out.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On May 25, 2019, at 7:18 PM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Kent,

 

Just a guess: What about at the fill pump? The + wire could be connected in series.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 7:31 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Wiring to aft head SM243

 

Ahoy Amelians,
I’m hoping someone can help me figure out where to look for a break in the connection from the aft head circuit breaker to the aft head switch.  The fill pump has power but the macerator Pump doesn’t.  There’s only one + wire at the breaker which controls both pumps, so somewhere between the breaker and the switches, there’s a connection that splits the + into two legs to the two pumps.  I assume that’s the likely place for there to be a disconnect???
unfortunately the single wire from the breaker disappears a large bundle of wires that goes up the forward engine room bulkhead and into that huge spaghetti bowl of wires above the galley sink.  At the head switch, all wires disappear into a chase going forward. Tracing it’s going to be a challenge, so I was hoping someone might know where it divides into feeds to both pumps.
any help greatly appreciated.
Kent & Iris
SM243 Kristy


Re: Wiring to aft head SM243

karkauai
 

Turns out I have a bad motor, a bad switch, and a bad connection between wire from switch to wire from motor.  No wonder it doesn’t work! ;-)>

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On May 26, 2019, at 9:11 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Kent,

Your issue is most probably the switch. There is only one feed wire to the switch.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 7:36 PM karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Mark,
I just went back to take a pic and pulled the wires out where I could see markings on them. I realized there is only one feed (marked “alim”), the other wires marked “pompe wc” and “Motor wc” go to the pumps.  So I guess it’s a problem between the switch and the macerator pump.  That’ll be a lot easier to figure out.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On May 25, 2019, at 7:18 PM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Kent,

 

Just a guess: What about at the fill pump? The + wire could be connected in series.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 7:31 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Wiring to aft head SM243

 

Ahoy Amelians,
I’m hoping someone can help me figure out where to look for a break in the connection from the aft head circuit breaker to the aft head switch.  The fill pump has power but the macerator Pump doesn’t.  There’s only one + wire at the breaker which controls both pumps, so somewhere between the breaker and the switches, there’s a connection that splits the + into two legs to the two pumps.  I assume that’s the likely place for there to be a disconnect???
unfortunately the single wire from the breaker disappears a large bundle of wires that goes up the forward engine room bulkhead and into that huge spaghetti bowl of wires above the galley sink.  At the head switch, all wires disappear into a chase going forward. Tracing it’s going to be a challenge, so I was hoping someone might know where it divides into feeds to both pumps.
any help greatly appreciated.
Kent & Iris
SM243 Kristy


Genoa Fair Leads

Capt. Steve Bode <whatsup@...>
 

Hey, Group.

What's the latest best answer on replacing the Genoa Fair Leads? My springs are broken, one wheel is chipped. Tried taking it apart, but can't figure out how to get the pin out of the center once the eye bolts are removed. Is that center bar screwed in? At $750 a piece online, I'm not jazzed about replacing the whole car.
Replacement car without extra hardware needed to adapt to Amel lead system:

Tags: Genoa Fair Lead, Genoa Track, Jib Car Lead, Jib fairlead, Genoa Fairlead, Foresail Track


Steve Bode, Captain of Sailing Vessel Intention
Currently Drydocked at ANT Yat Servis
Bodrum Marina Teknik Servisler
Neyzen Tevfik Cad. No. 5
48400 Bodrum, Mulga, Turkiye

Amel Super Maramu #117 (1994) 
+1 415-710-6659 voice/text/whatsapp


Re: Engine room lining on Amel 54

 


Please keep us posted as to how this works. Every 54 owner will be very interested.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 6:03 AM Martin Bevan <Martin.bevanhome@...> wrote:
Thank you for all the responses about the engine room.  I tried the plastic paint suggestion. Plasti Dip is available in the UK. It comes as a spray or brush on and there are the appropriate thinners and a primer for use on non-porous surfaces. It adheres well to the raw foam and 2-3 coats brushed on has given a tough surface. It is too early to say how well it will last. It certainly improves the appearance of the engine room, even just patching in. 


Re: Wiring to aft head SM243

 

Kent,

Your issue is most probably the switch. There is only one feed wire to the switch.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 7:36 PM karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Mark,
I just went back to take a pic and pulled the wires out where I could see markings on them. I realized there is only one feed (marked “alim”), the other wires marked “pompe wc” and “Motor wc” go to the pumps.  So I guess it’s a problem between the switch and the macerator pump.  That’ll be a lot easier to figure out.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On May 25, 2019, at 7:18 PM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Kent,

 

Just a guess: What about at the fill pump? The + wire could be connected in series.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 7:31 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Wiring to aft head SM243

 

Ahoy Amelians,
I’m hoping someone can help me figure out where to look for a break in the connection from the aft head circuit breaker to the aft head switch.  The fill pump has power but the macerator Pump doesn’t.  There’s only one + wire at the breaker which controls both pumps, so somewhere between the breaker and the switches, there’s a connection that splits the + into two legs to the two pumps.  I assume that’s the likely place for there to be a disconnect???
unfortunately the single wire from the breaker disappears a large bundle of wires that goes up the forward engine room bulkhead and into that huge spaghetti bowl of wires above the galley sink.  At the head switch, all wires disappear into a chase going forward. Tracing it’s going to be a challenge, so I was hoping someone might know where it divides into feeds to both pumps.
any help greatly appreciated.
Kent & Iris
SM243 Kristy


"heavier lower stays than the original"

 

John,

I am very curious about this statement: "...and followed the advice on having heavier lower stays than the original."

I was about to post something about this. Can you tell me where or how you heard this advice?

Unfortunately, there is nothing in the manual about running backstays, and some 54s have running backstays that are too short to use. Oliver Henrichsen, offers good advice if your running back stays are not rigged with leveraged block/tackle with a cam cleat similar to what you use for preventers. I have seen 54s with this type of block/tackle rigged to each running back stay. BTW, I like to attach the running back stay on the chain plate near the genoa block. Oliver did not go into detail, but I suspect that he attaches a block for the running back stay on the cain plate, then runs it to the small winch on the cockpit coaming. 

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Fri, May 24, 2019 at 12:08 PM John via Groups.Io <thejluto=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
I have owned an Amel 54 for only a few months.   As most 54s, the boat is rigged with genoa and staysail, and yes I have the reinforced mast with a little prebend, and followed the advice on having heavier lower stays than the original. And I have the dyneema lines ready to be used as running backstays ... but no tackle (yet) at the back end of the running backstays.

(My previous boat had a genoa and self-tacking staysail, but had lower forward stays and adjustable hydraulic tension on the aft stays to adjust the mainsail shape, and no running backstays.)

So, I looked through the Amel owner manual and user guide. I found no pictures or advice on using the running backstays.  So I would appreciate a little advice on 3 items

1) Do you have any pictures of your running backstays in action, showing how you rigged the tackle and maybe the size of the tackle..

2) When running downwind, do use them if you have staysail and Genoa (or gennaker) set and are running hard? 

3) When going upwind do you use them only when using staysail in a heavy blow ??

Any help would be appreciated ... especially a picture or two.

John,
Justina (Austin TX)  A54 #34, in France


Re: Engine room lining on Amel 54

Martin Bevan
 

Thank you for all the responses about the engine room.  I tried the plastic paint suggestion. Plasti Dip is available in the UK. It comes as a spray or brush on and there are the appropriate thinners and a primer for use on non-porous surfaces. It adheres well to the raw foam and 2-3 coats brushed on has given a tough surface. It is too early to say how well it will last. It certainly improves the appearance of the engine room, even just patching in. 


Re: Any SM owners use a Beta engine??

Gerhard Mueller
 

I am not shure if you also need to change the gearbox when changing the engine. Perhaps someone here has a hint.

--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Any SM owners use a Beta engine??

ngtnewington Newington
 

I had a Beta 50 hp on my last boat. Ran sweet, started first time over 10 years.
Nick
Amelia 
AML54 -019 in Mahon 


On 26 May 2019, at 07:35, Davi Rozgonyi <davi.rozgonyi@...> wrote:

Ciao y'all.... Davi here on SM#56, Wake. So I've been trying to have my Perkins Prima M80T rebuilt for some months now with disappointing results. Constant gray/white smoke and spitting oil or diesel on the water, eating a liter of oil every 50 hours or so. Even after twice having engine removed, pistons checked, head checked, FI pump rebuilt, injectors tested, new turbo installed.... stumped. Two different mechanics. The first I can now say botched the job, but the second is pretty brilliant and he is at the point where he wants to pull the whole thing to recheck the other work done starting at the pistons again. 

But I am getting fed up. I cannot afford any more high-season-in-the-Med marina layup for weeks. I will be able to limp through the summer here in Italy/Greece with it as is before wintering back here in Palermo, where there is a Beta dealer. I've looked at these engines before, and know they are strong, simple, naturally aspirated, cheaper parts, etc. Price is pretty good too.

So I'm asking if any of you have Betas or can tell me some things about them I might be missing vis a vis a SM repower. They make a 75 horse model, looks pretty sweet, I've only heard good things about them. Any real life insight from ye salty souls??? 


locked Re: AMEL 55

Davi Rozgonyi
 

Hi there, so... I have a Super Maramu. So take this with a grain of salt...apologies to those who might have a 55. 

I have a few friends with 55s, and have explored them inside and out. I was disappointed. We are a three person family with three cats living aboard full time also. Storage space was for starters extremely important. Because of all the side windows, there is an incredible lack of interior cabinet space on the 55s (and to a lesser extent, even the 54s where the windows are cut). I don't think I could live full time on here lacking even one cabinet on this SM :D There are a million windows on the aft cabintop where the SM has a sundeck. It seems difficult to make a sundeck over all those hatches, and the sundeck is one of the best things about the SM. The 55s I've seen also have been cutter rigged. I personally dislike that because it eliminates the best spot to best secure a dinghy, ie the foredeck. In our case, a 3.3m all aluminum. It would never fit on a 55. The bow locker on the 55 seemed extremely small, at least the opening. We keep a parasailor in one of the SM's two large bow lockers; I doubt it would fit in a 55. Last but not least, the cockpit. Objectively, it is a waste of space. I spend 75% of my time in the cockpit, why make it smaller and harder to stretch out on watch?? The port bench does not extend past the captains chair (ends at it actually, making it about 5 feet long instead of the SM's 7 or 8 feet), and the whole cockpit is narrower by 2 or 3 feet due to the winches being on the outside of the hard enclosure. The cushions are narrower and the table seemed to be permanently installed in the center of things. There are giant glass windows but they are so far in front of the wheel that it effectively becomes a meter long dashboard where putting anything is awkward or dangerous, ie a waste of space. I also don't know if you can pop up out of the hard top of a 55 ( i dont think so) when you need a better look or just because it feels nice... And all of this for a price tag 3-5 times what a SM costs. 

In short, being a full time livaboard, I would never even trade my SM straight up for a 55 (or a 54 for similar reasons, altho the 54 seems much better value for a liveaboard). If I had the scratch to buy a 55, I would buy the newest SM redline 2000 I could find, and upgrade her new everything and with every little tweak (a king size bed in the back is the best one, followed by a hydraulic table in the saloon that turns it into a king size movie bed ;)  And then put the other 400k left over in my cruising kitty. 


Any SM owners use a Beta engine??

Davi Rozgonyi
 

Ciao y'all.... Davi here on SM#56, Wake. So I've been trying to have my Perkins Prima M80T rebuilt for some months now with disappointing results. Constant gray/white smoke and spitting oil or diesel on the water, eating a liter of oil every 50 hours or so. Even after twice having engine removed, pistons checked, head checked, FI pump rebuilt, injectors tested, new turbo installed.... stumped. Two different mechanics. The first I can now say botched the job, but the second is pretty brilliant and he is at the point where he wants to pull the whole thing to recheck the other work done starting at the pistons again. 

But I am getting fed up. I cannot afford any more high-season-in-the-Med marina layup for weeks. I will be able to limp through the summer here in Italy/Greece with it as is before wintering back here in Palermo, where there is a Beta dealer. I've looked at these engines before, and know they are strong, simple, naturally aspirated, cheaper parts, etc. Price is pretty good too.

So I'm asking if any of you have Betas or can tell me some things about them I might be missing vis a vis a SM repower. They make a 75 horse model, looks pretty sweet, I've only heard good things about them. Any real life insight from ye salty souls??? 


Re: Wiring to aft head SM243

karkauai
 

Hi Mark,
I just went back to take a pic and pulled the wires out where I could see markings on them. I realized there is only one feed (marked “alim”), the other wires marked “pompe wc” and “Motor wc” go to the pumps.  So I guess it’s a problem between the switch and the macerator pump.  That’ll be a lot easier to figure out.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On May 25, 2019, at 7:18 PM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Kent,

 

Just a guess: What about at the fill pump? The + wire could be connected in series.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 7:31 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Wiring to aft head SM243

 

Ahoy Amelians,
I’m hoping someone can help me figure out where to look for a break in the connection from the aft head circuit breaker to the aft head switch.  The fill pump has power but the macerator Pump doesn’t.  There’s only one + wire at the breaker which controls both pumps, so somewhere between the breaker and the switches, there’s a connection that splits the + into two legs to the two pumps.  I assume that’s the likely place for there to be a disconnect???
unfortunately the single wire from the breaker disappears a large bundle of wires that goes up the forward engine room bulkhead and into that huge spaghetti bowl of wires above the galley sink.  At the head switch, all wires disappear into a chase going forward. Tracing it’s going to be a challenge, so I was hoping someone might know where it divides into feeds to both pumps.
any help greatly appreciated.
Kent & Iris
SM243 Kristy


Re: Wiring to aft head SM243

Mark Erdos
 

Kent,

 

Just a guess: What about at the fill pump? The + wire could be connected in series.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 7:31 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Wiring to aft head SM243

 

Ahoy Amelians,
I’m hoping someone can help me figure out where to look for a break in the connection from the aft head circuit breaker to the aft head switch.  The fill pump has power but the macerator Pump doesn’t.  There’s only one + wire at the breaker which controls both pumps, so somewhere between the breaker and the switches, there’s a connection that splits the + into two legs to the two pumps.  I assume that’s the likely place for there to be a disconnect???
unfortunately the single wire from the breaker disappears a large bundle of wires that goes up the forward engine room bulkhead and into that huge spaghetti bowl of wires above the galley sink.  At the head switch, all wires disappear into a chase going forward. Tracing it’s going to be a challenge, so I was hoping someone might know where it divides into feeds to both pumps.
any help greatly appreciated.
Kent & Iris
SM243 Kristy