Date   

Re: propeller Zinc

 

Alessandro,

The photo did not work. I am not sure why, but attached is a PDF

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Thu, Mar 7, 2019 at 8:33 AM CW Bill Rouse via Groups.Io <brouse=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Alessandro,

When your SM was new, it had no zinc on the propellor. It had a red plastic cap (see attached and look in your Amel Manual).

There are two sides of the issue "for and against zincs on the AutoProp." Henri Amel was against. AutoProp was initially for, now neutral. I am with Henri, but that does not make us right!

I attached a photo of a page from my book named "AutoProp Zinc." 

I believe this is a decision you should make after understanding both sides of the issue.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Wed, Mar 6, 2019 at 7:59 PM Alessandro Gennai via Groups.Io <agennai=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi folks,
I'm happy owner of  Supermaramu 2000 redline  #443  ; someone could tell me the right zinc for the propeller
thank you
Alessandro
GRAND CRU #443


Re: propeller Zinc

 
Edited


Alessandro,

When your SM was new, it had no zinc on the propellor. It had a red plastic cap (see attached and look in your Amel Manual).

There are two sides of the issue "for and against zincs on the AutoProp." Henri Amel was against. AutoProp was initially for, now neutral. I am with Henri, but that does not make us right!

I attached a photo of a page from my book named "AutoProp Zinc." 

I believe this is a decision you should make after understanding both sides of the issue.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Wed, Mar 6, 2019 at 7:59 PM Alessandro Gennai via Groups.Io <agennai=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi folks,
I'm happy owner of  Supermaramu 2000 redline  #443  ; someone could tell me the right zinc for the propeller
thank you
Alessandro
GRAND CRU #443


Re: Marco UP6/E pump and MASS+

 
Edited

Scott,

I understand that you are saying when the MASS switch is moved to "+"  (positive) the light turns ON.  Correct?

This means that there is a connection between 24VDC Positive and Bonding. When a pump is involved it is almost always because a pump seal has failed, allowing water to penetrate and cause a connection between bonding and positive 24VDC. (If the light comes ON when the switch is in the Negative position, the connection is between Negative and Bonding,). Saltwater creates a stronger connection than freshwater.

In your situation, most likely saltwater has probably caused this "connection" between bonding and 24VAC Positive. I think the first place that I would look very closely is the ethernet type connection between the pump and the optional electronic monitor (male & female). I believe you will find the fault there. Clean the connection(s) with freshwater, then alcohol.  Then next, I would open the pump electrical connections. What I would look for is salt crystals. Remember, these could be microscopic, especially with ethernet connections (male & female). Let me know what you find.

Regarding the function of the 24V panel light, Marco owes me an explanation. I asked for this some time ago. I will email them again today and will post the answer to the group.



Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, Mar 6, 2019, 8:41 PM Scott Nguyen <scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Bill,

Slight typo - I had a small leak from the waterMAKER hoses so some salt water got on the Marco pump.

On Wed, Mar 6, 2019 at 10:32 PM Scott Nguyen <scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Bill,

As you now, I'm using the Marco UP6/E pump for domestic water and have been doing so for almost 6 months now. I regularly check the Mass- and Mass+ switch on my A54 to ensure no electrical leaks.

This evening, I checked and got a Mass+ light, clear and bright. Luckily, I was able to quickly isolate it by turning off the freshwater water pump on the 24v circuit breaker panel. 

As you may recall, we had some issues with the smart sensor positive lead (between smart sensor and pump itself) keeping the 24v panel freshwater pump light on permanently. We couldn't figure it out so I just moved on and dealt with the 24v panel freshwater pump light being on all the time. To test to see if this was causing the Mass+ fault, I cut the wire. The 24v panel freshwater pump light obviously is no longer on, but the Mass+ light remained.

The only way I could get rid of the Mass+ light was remove the bonding wire from the pump body. Do you know what may cause the Marco pump to all of the sudden create continuity between + and the pump body? 

I had a small leak from the waterpump hoses so some salt water got on the Marco pump, but I can't imagine that causes the pump to be + energized? 

What would you do in my position? Thanks!

-Scott


Re: Marco UP6/E pump and MASS+ light

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Scott,

Salt water is almost certainly the cause for a short circuit between the pumps electrical supply and the case and hence the bonding system. The other, less likely, possibility is accumulation of carbon dust from worn brushes. 

The solution is to disassemble the motor, clean with fresh water, dry, spray with CorrosionX, and reassemble. 

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Mayaguana, Bahamas


Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Craig Briggs
 

OF COURSE !!!!    DUH !!!! WHY DIDN'T I THINK OF THAT!!!!!
Great quiz, Olivier, with the most obvious answer that none of us came up with!

Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris


Re: propeller Zinc

Mark Erdos
 

If you have the AutoProp H6 then this is correct: https://www.boatzincs.com/autoprop_specs_H6.html

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alessandro Gennai via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, March 6, 2019 10:00 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] propeller Zinc

 

Hi folks,
I'm happy owner of  Supermaramu 2000 redline  #443  ; someone could tell me the right zinc for the propeller
thank you
Alessandro
GRAND CRU #443


Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Beaute Olivier
 

Hi everybody,

the two master pieces made of PVC tube glassed to the hull and deck are the cockpit drains. These pipes are in fact glassed with GRP on their whole outside surface, and then glassed with the hull and deck. No need to mention that they really need to be watertight and resistant to a shock. If you hit them with your hand, you will feel that they are strong.

There are other glassed PVC tubes in critical places such as the air vent pipe of the bow-thruster box and the one inside the dorade box of the engine room air exhaust circuit (they need to be watertight). 

The hawse pipe needs to be watertight too, and there is nothing like a glassing to do it right. However, the hawse pipe surroundings remain a wet area, and the possible damages from a leaking hawse pipe will not be very serious, except that it may bring water into the plywood floor, which will rot in the long run (as you all know).

Good luck Thomas.

Olivier



On Thursday, March 7, 2019, 1:09:20 AM GMT+1, Warren Traill <trailz@...> wrote:


Thanks Craig.

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Craig Briggs via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, 6 March 2019 11:55 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow locker floor replacement.....

 

Hi Warren,
Sorry, I don't recall the exact diameter but it was essentially the same as the original, to the closest US size I could find. It's not too critical since you're glassing in the new one so there's wiggle room. I only took "gee whiz" pictures of the old rotted out tube, but a picture of the finished job may not be very informative since it looks just like the old one (before it rusted out :-)
Best, Craig SN68 Sangaris


Marco UP6/E pump and MASS+ light

Scott SV Tengah
 

Hi all,

I've been using the Marco UP6/E pump for domestic water for almost 6 months now. I've been quite happy with it. I regularly check the Mass- and Mass+ switch on my A54 to ensure no electrical leaks.
 
This evening, I checked and got a Mass+ light, clear and bright. Luckily, I was able to quickly isolate it by turning off the freshwater water pump on the 24v circuit breaker panel. The only way I could get rid of the Mass+ light was remove the bonding wire from the pump body. Do you know what may cause the Marco pump to all of the sudden create continuity between + and the pump body? 
 
I had a small leak from the watermaker hoses so some salt water got on the Marco pump, but could that cause a short somewhere and cause the pump body to be + energized? 

As an aside, had some issues with the smart sensor positive lead (between smart pressure sensor and pump itself) keeping the Amel 24v panel freshwater pump light on permanently. We couldn't figure it out so I just moved on and dealt with the 24v panel freshwater pump light being on all the time. Has anyone else using the Marco pumps figured out how to wire this so the Amel 24v panel light only comes on when the pump is being operated? Also, to test to see if this was causing the Mass+ fault, I cut the wire. The 24v panel freshwater pump light obviously is no longer on, but the Mass+ light remained.

Any thoughts on the Mass+ light or getting the Amel 24V panel freshwater pump light to work properly with this pump would be appreciated!

-Scott
A54 #69 Tengah


propeller Zinc

Alessandro Gennai <agennai@...>
 

Hi folks,
I'm happy owner of  Supermaramu 2000 redline  #443  ; someone could tell me the right zinc for the propeller
thank you
Alessandro
GRAND CRU #443


Re: Special Thanks to Gary Silver and Andrew Lamb #organize

Rick Grimes
 

Terrific!

On Mar 6, 2019, at 3:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

All,

You are probably not aware that SM owner Gary Silver has edited almost 600 of your photos in the photos section of this website and SM owner Andrew Lamb has also been updating and editing photos. WOW!

The reason for this effort is that when you upload a photo with a camera-assigned name like IMG-00001, the search engine will not find it when someone may be searching for exactly what you updated. Hopefully between Gary and Andrew's efforts we will have close to 100% of all photos properly named.

I am asking everyone to ensure that any photo you add to the Photo section is named logicly and in such a way that it will become searchable. Also, if you are not sure which ALBUM to add it to, please note that I set up 6 General albums:

1. Deck & Hull - anything on the outside of the Amel
2. Electronics & Electrical
3. Mechanical - anything that turns or moves, except if it should be in #1. Deck & Hull - anything on the outside of the Amel
4. Plumbing
5. Miscellaneous
6. Amel Photo Album -A place to post your boat pictures and glamour shots


Please try to use this organization methodology because it will certainly benefit each of us, sooner or later.

Photos which are attached to emails are automatically placed in an Album named EMAILED PHOTOS. We are going to attempt to move those photos to one of the above 6 albums, but this may be a challenge for us. If we can get it figured out, we will move them once a month, empting the EMAILED PHOTOS album.

--
 
Best,
 
Bill


Re: Special Thanks to Gary Silver and Andrew Lamb #organize

Rick Grimes
 

Yes! Thanks Gary and Andrew—and Bill. This is SO much easier to navigate and we’re so appreciation to all you are doing to make this a great place to learn and grow and share. 


Re: Outhaul shaft removal

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Eric,

I would never suggest you were a big man with a big hammer as I described in my very valid warning. I described the man and hammer provided by the Shelter Bay Marina yard against my wishes. However your move from a small big hammer to a full size sledge hammer would indicate an element of vigorous action as does the word "pounding". Not quite the delicate touch of a jeweler. A gas torch is a very effective and non damaging method of freeing resistant articles, as is heating in an oven. However the boom would not fit in an oven. Gas torches used for this work have a very broad flame and the heat used would not affect the hardening of the gears

Anyway in my case I had stripped the gearbox of most of its components.

Kind Regards

Danny 

On 07 March 2019 at 12:33 eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Being a big man with a big hammer,it really depends on what you hit with the hammer and how much force you use with the hammer. After supporting the boom upside down I gently used the Big Hammer  on just the bolt sticking out from the shaft. By using the weight of the hammer and GENTLY tapping the bolt, the shaft came out easily, Remember I was an engineer and then a jeweler for over 40 years-, I am used to working on things with a very gentle touch. bringing the boom to a shop with a press is essentially doing the same thing as I did with the hammer,

However I would never use a torch on the gearbox.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376


On Tue, Mar 05, 2019 at 03:16 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS wrote:


On 05 MarHi,

Hi Barry

In Shelter Bay Marina Colon, Panama I was addressing this problem. I approached the yard asking for a man with a gas torch to heat it. Instead I got a big man with a big hammer and a puller. The result was a shattered housing. We were 36 hours from transiting the Canal. Fun.  He then used the gas torch as I had asked and it slipped off. So in my opinion beware a big man with a big hammer. I advised everyone after this to regularly remove and lanacote this shaft and avoid this issue forever. If done regularly it slips out easily.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

ch 2019 at 10:35 seagasm <seagasm@...> wrote:
OK, so how difficult to re-assemble it? do you have to use such force?

Kind Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM#171


Re: Hawse Pipe Replacement

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Yes Dan it most certainly does. I had to remove my windlass at one stage and that bolt sheered off. I put the windlass back in place (temporarily) without that bolt and it very noticeably flexed the deck in use. I drilled the stud out and replaced it with a through bolt. That flange is essential.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 07 March 2019 at 11:29 "Dan Wilcox via Groups.Io" <dwilcox123@...> wrote:

 
Hearing how the bolt went through a tab on the pipe, could the explanation be that the galvanized pipe provide extra rigidity to reduce the deck from flexing when the windless was pulling up an anchor?

Thanks, Dan
Feierabend SM#86

On Wednesday, March 6, 2019, 2:25:31 PM PST, Craig Briggs via Groups.Io <sangaris@...> wrote:


Gary,
On my Santorin the original pipe didn't have a tab on top. The pipe end was cut at an angle to be flush with the underside of the deck and simply glassed to the bottom of the deck with a fillet. It was, indeed, just stubbed about an inch below the deck locker floor with a glass filtet on top of the floor to seal it - nothing on the underside. Flanges will be really tricky because (on the Santorin) the pipe angles forward toward the bow as it goes down from the windlass so you'd have to get the flange angles just right. I should think just fiberglass fillets top and bottom, like Amel's original would do the trick.  I plugged up the hawse hole and top of the pipe with some rags inside some plastic wrap to keep resin and filet material from seeping down the inside of the pipe.
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris


 


 


Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Warren Traill
 

Thanks Craig.

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Craig Briggs via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, 6 March 2019 11:55 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow locker floor replacement.....

 

Hi Warren,
Sorry, I don't recall the exact diameter but it was essentially the same as the original, to the closest US size I could find. It's not too critical since you're glassing in the new one so there's wiggle room. I only took "gee whiz" pictures of the old rotted out tube, but a picture of the finished job may not be very informative since it looks just like the old one (before it rusted out :-)
Best, Craig SN68 Sangaris


Re: Outhaul shaft removal

eric freedman
 

Being a big man with a big hammer,it really depends on what you hit with the hammer and how much force you use with the hammer. After supporting the boom upside down I gently used the Big Hammer  on just the bolt sticking out from the shaft. By using the weight of the hammer and GENTLY tapping the bolt, the shaft came out easily, Remember I was an engineer and then a jeweler for over 40 years-, I am used to working on things with a very gentle touch. bringing the boom to a shop with a press is essentially doing the same thing as I did with the hammer,

However I would never use a torch on the gearbox.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376


On Tue, Mar 05, 2019 at 03:16 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS wrote:


On 05 MarHi,

Hi Barry

In Shelter Bay Marina Colon, Panama I was addressing this problem. I approached the yard asking for a man with a gas torch to heat it. Instead I got a big man with a big hammer and a puller. The result was a shattered housing. We were 36 hours from transiting the Canal. Fun.  He then used the gas torch as I had asked and it slipped off. So in my opinion beware a big man with a big hammer. I advised everyone after this to regularly remove and lanacote this shaft and avoid this issue forever. If done regularly it slips out easily.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

ch 2019 at 10:35 seagasm <seagasm@...> wrote:
OK, so how difficult to re-assemble it? do you have to use such force?

Kind Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM#171


Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Tom,
Does your hawse pipe run vertically or is it slanted like mine on my Santorin? On mine a standard 90° flange wouldn't work.  Also, even with an access door, working on the underside of the bow locker floor is brutal - why not just put it on top, or, easier yet, just caulk (or glass in a fillet) on the top of the floor?
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris


Re: Hawse Pipe Replacement

Dan Wilcox
 

Hearing how the bolt went through a tab on the pipe, could the explanation be that the galvanized pipe provide extra rigidity to reduce the deck from flexing when the windless was pulling up an anchor?

Thanks, Dan
Feierabend SM#86

On Wednesday, March 6, 2019, 2:25:31 PM PST, Craig Briggs via Groups.Io <sangaris@...> wrote:


Gary,
On my Santorin the original pipe didn't have a tab on top. The pipe end was cut at an angle to be flush with the underside of the deck and simply glassed to the bottom of the deck with a fillet. It was, indeed, just stubbed about an inch below the deck locker floor with a glass filtet on top of the floor to seal it - nothing on the underside. Flanges will be really tricky because (on the Santorin) the pipe angles forward toward the bow as it goes down from the windlass so you'd have to get the flange angles just right. I should think just fiberglass fillets top and bottom, like Amel's original would do the trick.  I plugged up the hawse hole and top of the pipe with some rags inside some plastic wrap to keep resin and filet material from seeping down the inside of the pipe.
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris


Re: Hawse Pipe Replacement

Craig Briggs
 

Gary,
On my Santorin the original pipe didn't have a tab on top. The pipe end was cut at an angle to be flush with the underside of the deck and simply glassed to the bottom of the deck with a fillet. It was, indeed, just stubbed about an inch below the deck locker floor with a glass filtet on top of the floor to seal it - nothing on the underside. Flanges will be really tricky because (on the Santorin) the pipe angles forward toward the bow as it goes down from the windlass so you'd have to get the flange angles just right. I should think just fiberglass fillets top and bottom, like Amel's original would do the trick.  I plugged up the hawse hole and top of the pipe with some rags inside some plastic wrap to keep resin and filet material from seeping down the inside of the pipe.
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris


Re: Forward head faucet

seagasm
 

Arlo, most items these days are generally available from hardware outlets for example, https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-chrome-handspray_p4790532 here in Australia and New Zealand. An identical mixer is also available, I think I purchased mine for about $32.00.

Kind Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM #171


Re: Hawse Pipe Replacement

amel46met
 

The Tab at the top of my galvanized hawse pipe had one of the windlass bolts thru it and encased in fiberglass before it rusted away. I still have to replace the pipe and some of the floor.
Tom Deasy 
S/Y Aphrodite 
Maramu 125


On Mar 6, 2019, at 1:44 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Gary,

   Perhaps Amel felt that the galvanized hawse would be less likely to corrode the chain due to dissimilar metals?  As long as the hawse had zinc left on it, it would help to protect the steel in the chain.   The fibreglass pipe idea is interesting to me since it could be made strong and would never corrode.   Eliminating the joint between the hawse and the fibreglass on the locker panels joints would be a good thing by keeping water from getting into the plywood at the hawse hole in the event that the caulking failed. The one problem is that fibreglass is not very resistant to chafe and in wearing the pipe down you will have some fibreglass fibers floating around...  I am thinking of using the fibreglass pipe idea but adding a replaceable plastic liner.  I am thinking of using a more slippery plastic than PVC but it sounds like it it working out well for some and would be a simple solution.  I am sure that you could also fashion a new hawse from 316 stainless that would wear well without a liner.  Lots of good ideas on the forum.
Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220
 
On Mar 6, 2019, at 11:07 AM, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> wrote:

I have created this new thread to carry on the topic of "Hawse Pipe Replacement" that was started in the thread "Bow Locker Floor Replacement".  In that thread multiple folks have indicated that they have replaced, or are about to replace, their hawse pipe due to corrosion of the original galvanized pipe.  Over the years I have only seen a hand full of areas where Amel "got it wrong" and the floor of the bow lazarettos and using galvanized pipe (instead of stainless steel or some more durable material) for the hawse pipe are two. 

This topic is timely for me as I was just considering this project myself (having previously dealt with the floor issue).  The suggested materials so far are:

Schedule 40 PVC  or better yet Schedule 80 PVC pipe.
FRP pipe.

I had anticipated having a 316L stainless steel pipe fabricated with a flange at the top and bottom.  Other than cost, any thoughts on that idea?   It appears to me that the original pipe simply passed through the lazarette floor (no flange) and had a "tab" welded at the top, then was glassed in place.  Correct?

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
Puerto Rico