Date   

Cables in SM Mast

Derick Gates
 

Raymaine in the Azores is attempting to exchange the wind direction and speed cable on Brava. They are having difficulty pulling the old cable up. Are the cables all cabletied together? Do we need o disconnect and pull all of the cables at the same time?

They also are encountering a barrier about 2 meters down from the top of the mast when trying to put a new wire in place without removing the old wire. Did Amel run the cables through a pipe at certain points? 

Any knowledge would be appreciated. 

Derick Gates
Amel Super Maramu #400
Brava
+1(617)512-8834 cell


Re: Toilet flooding when sailing

Mark Erdos
 

Paul,

 

You probably need to replace the joker valve on the head. It is located past the pump but before the hose leading to the holding tank. You should find 3 screws there to access the valve. This is the valve that stops water flowing backward into the head.

 

joker valve.jpg.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Paul Osterberg
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2019 10:05 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Toilet flooding when sailing

 

We have noticed a strange ingress of water in our forward head bowl, when sailing with the wind in from SB, if there is any water left in the bowl, the bowl slowly fills with water, usually smal amount when the boats goes down in a wave or other vivid motion. If the bowl is totally empty no water coming in! I have no explanation to the behavior.  We have similar on the aft toilet but to much less extent. We always have the valve for emptying the holding tank open when at sea. but can't imagine how water can get in that way
Paul on SY Kerpa SM #259


Toilet flooding when sailing

Paul Osterberg
 

We have noticed a strange ingress of water in our forward head bowl, when sailing with the wind in from SB, if there is any water left in the bowl, the bowl slowly fills with water, usually smal amount when the boats goes down in a wave or other vivid motion. If the bowl is totally empty no water coming in! I have no explanation to the behavior.  We have similar on the aft toilet but to much less extent. We always have the valve for emptying the holding tank open when at sea. but can't imagine how water can get in that way
Paul on SY Kerpa SM #259


Re: Tidbits

Ian Park
 

I knew the steerboard origin but not all of the rest. Thanks Mark, I am going to copy and save that.
Ocean Hobo is currently anchored off Siel Island in Scotland - in the sun. We’re currently with the OCC Celtic Cruise with Bill And Laurie on Toodle Ooh.

Best wishes

Ian and Linda


Re: Now locker floor replacement

Gerald Bassin
 

Nice job !
On our SM #113 Jetlag, we managed to load up 100 gallons of water on the passage from Curaçao to Grenada due to a blocked drain in the chain locker.... We had a hatch already fitted in the port locker so it was not to hard to get down and cut an acces to the drain hole. Works fine now. We also installed a divider in the chain locker. Seems that the earlier units did not have it installed
Safe sailing
Gerald Bassin 
SV Jetlag


On 21 May 2019, at 02:13, Mike Ondra via Groups.Io <mdondra@...> wrote:

Aletes locker drain was also blocked. Pushing a fish (wire puller) up the drain pipe from the T in the foreword head bilge broke it loose. Water gushed out along with the mud and sand. Hose pressure through the holes in the anchor locker floor cleaned out the rest. 

Key to this was the access now afforded      through the port bow locker floor now completed. 

Mike Ondra
Aletes SM240
<image1.jpeg>


On May 19, 2019, at 5:51 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:

Hi Gang,

I solved the problem by always using the chain wash (now fresh water on our boat) and at least once a year… doing a pressure wash in the chain well compartment.

Cheers from Fiji.

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM 007


On 20 May 2019, at 09:45, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

Mike- your floor looks great. I know how hard it is to cut and refine that shape. On L'ORIENT my chain locker bilge (under that glassed in perforated grate at the bottom of the chain locker) was hoplessly clogged. I ended up cutting an access port in it so I could vacuum it out periodically.....it drains fine now Wondering if other people have this problem or I just pick muddier places to anchor than most.....the actual outlet underneath there is about 15mm above the bottom and offset.


Re: Now locker floor replacement

eric freedman
 

Very nice work,

Congratulations.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Mike Ondra via Groups.Io
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2019 8:14 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Now locker floor replacement

 

Aletes locker drain was also blocked. Pushing a fish (wire puller) up the drain pipe from the T in the foreword head bilge broke it loose. Water gushed out along with the mud and sand. Hose pressure through the holes in the anchor locker floor cleaned out the rest. 

 

Key to this was the access now afforded      through the port bow locker floor now completed. 

 

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM240

image1.jpeg


On May 19, 2019, at 5:51 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:

Hi Gang,

 

I solved the problem by always using the chain wash (now fresh water on our boat) and at least once a year… doing a pressure wash in the chain well compartment.

 

Cheers from Fiji.

 

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM 007

 



On 20 May 2019, at 09:45, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

 

Mike- your floor looks great. I know how hard it is to cut and refine that shape. On L'ORIENT my chain locker bilge (under that glassed in perforated grate at the bottom of the chain locker) was hoplessly clogged. I ended up cutting an access port in it so I could vacuum it out periodically.....it drains fine now Wondering if other people have this problem or I just pick muddier places to anchor than most.....the actual outlet underneath there is about 15mm above the bottom and offset.

 


Re: Now locker floor replacement

Mike Ondra
 

Aletes locker drain was also blocked. Pushing a fish (wire puller) up the drain pipe from the T in the foreword head bilge broke it loose. Water gushed out along with the mud and sand. Hose pressure through the holes in the anchor locker floor cleaned out the rest. 

Key to this was the access now afforded      through the port bow locker floor now completed. 

Mike Ondra
Aletes SM240
image1.jpeg


On May 19, 2019, at 5:51 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:

Hi Gang,

I solved the problem by always using the chain wash (now fresh water on our boat) and at least once a year… doing a pressure wash in the chain well compartment.

Cheers from Fiji.

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM 007


On 20 May 2019, at 09:45, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

Mike- your floor looks great. I know how hard it is to cut and refine that shape. On L'ORIENT my chain locker bilge (under that glassed in perforated grate at the bottom of the chain locker) was hoplessly clogged. I ended up cutting an access port in it so I could vacuum it out periodically.....it drains fine now Wondering if other people have this problem or I just pick muddier places to anchor than most.....the actual outlet underneath there is about 15mm above the bottom and offset.


Re: Tidbits

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Nice one Mark!! Sorry we missed meeting you guys by not very far. We came through Panama two weeks ago and are now in Ecuador.
Best regards
Colin & Lauren on SV Island Pearl II, sm#332

On Mon, May 20, 2019 at 3:02 PM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

(not sure where I found this so as to give credit where due)

 

 

Ever wonder where the terms port (left) and starboard (right) came from?

 

Ships used to have their rudders affixed to the right side, and this was the side they steered from. 'Starboard' is a corruption of 'steorbord' or 'steer-board.' In fact, the word 'steer' comes from the Old Norse 'stýri' meaning rudder.

 

When pulling into port, ships approached with the land on their left side to avoid damaging the rudder. This is why that side is called 'port side.' It was originally called 'larboard,' derived from 'load-board' (the side you load cargo on), but they decided that the term sounded too similar to 'starboard' and changed it.

 

When two ships crossed paths, the one on the right side had the right-of-way (hence the name). Since ships often passed in the dark of night, they needed a way to determine the location and orientation of other vessels. So, they affixed a red light to left (port) side and a green light to the right (starboard) side.

 

If the red light of the other ship was visible, it meant that their left side was facing you, thus they were on the right, and that you should yield to them. If their green light was visible, then you were the one with the right-of-way. This is where we get our modern traffic signal colors: red means stop and green means go. This same color system is still used today on aircraft.

 

If you have trouble keeping it all straight, remember that port wine is red, and that there's never any left in the morning. Incidentally, port wine is named after the Portuguese seaport city of Porto, from which it was originally exported. All three of those uses of port that I just boldfaced are derived from the Latin word 'portus' meaning 'harbor.'

 

Now you know.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Panama

www.creampuff.us

 



--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Tidbits

Mark Erdos
 

(not sure where I found this so as to give credit where due)

 

 

Ever wonder where the terms port (left) and starboard (right) came from?

 

Ships used to have their rudders affixed to the right side, and this was the side they steered from. 'Starboard' is a corruption of 'steorbord' or 'steer-board.' In fact, the word 'steer' comes from the Old Norse 'stýri' meaning rudder.

 

When pulling into port, ships approached with the land on their left side to avoid damaging the rudder. This is why that side is called 'port side.' It was originally called 'larboard,' derived from 'load-board' (the side you load cargo on), but they decided that the term sounded too similar to 'starboard' and changed it.

 

When two ships crossed paths, the one on the right side had the right-of-way (hence the name). Since ships often passed in the dark of night, they needed a way to determine the location and orientation of other vessels. So, they affixed a red light to left (port) side and a green light to the right (starboard) side.

 

If the red light of the other ship was visible, it meant that their left side was facing you, thus they were on the right, and that you should yield to them. If their green light was visible, then you were the one with the right-of-way. This is where we get our modern traffic signal colors: red means stop and green means go. This same color system is still used today on aircraft.

 

If you have trouble keeping it all straight, remember that port wine is red, and that there's never any left in the morning. Incidentally, port wine is named after the Portuguese seaport city of Porto, from which it was originally exported. All three of those uses of port that I just boldfaced are derived from the Latin word 'portus' meaning 'harbor.'

 

Now you know.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Panama

www.creampuff.us

 


Re: Marco UP6/E pump and MASS+ light

Alan Leslie
 

We have a Marco pump on Elyse and don't have it connected to the bonding system.
As I understand it the bonding system as far as pumps etc go is only applicable to those items in contact with salt water.
Regarding the 24V indicator panel light, we have the original wire connected to the red wire between the smart sensor and the pump.
The green light on the panel comes on when the pump cycles and goes off when it stops.
Our pump has been installed now for 2+ years and we have had no issues with it.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Now locker floor replacement

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hi Gang,

I solved the problem by always using the chain wash (now fresh water on our boat) and at least once a year… doing a pressure wash in the chain well compartment.

Cheers from Fiji.

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM 007


On 20 May 2019, at 09:45, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

Mike- your floor looks great. I know how hard it is to cut and refine that shape. On L'ORIENT my chain locker bilge (under that glassed in perforated grate at the bottom of the chain locker) was hoplessly clogged. I ended up cutting an access port in it so I could vacuum it out periodically.....it drains fine now. Wondering if other people have this problem or I just pick muddier places to anchor than most.....the actual outlet underneath there is about 15mm above the bottom and offset.


Re: Now locker floor replacement

Thomas Kleman
 

Mike- your floor looks great. I know how hard it is to cut and refine that shape. On L'ORIENT my chain locker bilge (under that glassed in perforated grate at the bottom of the chain locker) was hoplessly clogged. I ended up cutting an access port in it so I could vacuum it out periodically.....it drains fine now. Wondering if other people have this problem or I just pick muddier places to anchor than most.....the actual outlet underneath there is about 15mm above the bottom and offset.


Re: The two "sticks" on the genoa top swivel

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Mike,

a while back I posted a photo of a tongue that goes through the inner of the swivel and into the slot in the foil. This locates the center and prevents the scratching you mention. This tongue often wears through. A number of SM owners have found this. There is one important feature, which if missing allows this wear to occur. This is a nylon "pencil" that sits in the foil with a mating slot in it for this tongue. I believe this "pencil" is often lost when non Amel riggers are doing work. The tongue is secured by two grub screws easily accessed. I suggest you check for the tongue and the nylon pencil. I am picking you will find both missing.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 20 May 2019 at 03:14 SV Trilogy <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Thanks everyone for the informative responses on this topic. We're having a new set of horns fabricated and plan to cover them with some hose material. Anything one can do to reduce halyard wraps, cuts, jams, etc. is certainly worthwhile.

On a side note, while up at the masthead I noticed the foil/extrusion was heavily scratched around it's circumference for several inches right where the top swivel would sit. Perhaps there's an issue with our top swivel and it should be taken apart and serviced? Although while at deck level it spins easily and sounds very smooth. Or maybe the threads on the one horn we had up there were too long and made contact with the foil while furling? Just wondering if anyone has ever seen anything similar on their boat. Sorry no photo at the moment but I'll try and get one.

Cheers,
Mike & Hannah
SV Trilogy, SM#23
Panama


On Mon, 13 May 2019, 08:05 Gary Wells, < gary@...> wrote:
A short piece of fuel line and some contact cement make good "caps" for those 'horns'.
Having experienced a halyard wrap up there once, I wouldn't consider running without them.
If you are doing regular maintenance on the swivel then it's far less likely the horns would touch the mast, but if the swivel jams even slightly the horns are the best defense against getting the halyard wrapped and broken at the masthead.  
Can't really explain how I discovered this.  :)

Gary W.
SM 209, "Adagio"
Beaufort, NC USA

 

 


Re: Windlass switch

Gregory Shea
 

Duane, 
That makes perfect sense. Tomorrow’s job, thanks. One dollar to do the hitting, 49 for knowing where to hit.

Greg Shea
Sharki 133 Cap des Iles
Currently at Preveza




On May 19, 2019, at 9:31 PM, Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io <carlylelk@...> wrote:

Greg,

I'm not sure from your question: are you trying to unscrew them from the outside of the casing?

If so you need to remove the nuts on the aft of the windlass aluminum cover, then slide the cover aft.  You'll find a nut on the inside of the case on the switch.  Remove the wires first, then the nut.  Make sure you use a good sealant that you can get apart later to make the switches watertight to the case.  

If the rubber boot you mention is the surface you press on, it has a lip that goes under the actual hard plastic switch that lies beneath.  You'll have to remove the switch to replace that.

On my SM this is the proceedure for the Lofrans Tigres, but on older models it might be different.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: Windlass switch

Duane Siegfri
 

Greg,

I'm not sure from your question: are you trying to unscrew them from the outside of the casing?

If so you need to remove the nuts on the aft of the windlass aluminum cover, then slide the cover aft.  You'll find a nut on the inside of the case on the switch.  Remove the wires first, then the nut.  Make sure you use a good sealant that you can get apart later to make the switches watertight to the case.  

If the rubber boot you mention is the surface you press on, it has a lip that goes under the actual hard plastic switch that lies beneath.  You'll have to remove the switch to replace that.

On my SM this is the proceedure for the Lofrans Tigres, but on older models it might be different.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: Marco UP6/E pump and MASS+ light

Duane Siegfri
 

Scott,

I had the same issue (masse light) with my Marco UP3E pump.  I would be very interested in what you may have learned.. 

I also removed the bonding wire from the pump to solve the problem.  However, a year later the pump stopped running in a place I could not easily replace it.  I disassembled the motor and found the motor brush wire was completely corroded and had fallen apart.  I'm guessing that the corroded wire was touching the case???  As a temporary repair I soldered in a new brush wire, but I don't expect it to work for long. 

I'm not sure what caused the brush wire to corrode.  Only one of them did, the other was fine.  Now I need to replace the pump and I am not sure I want another Marco pump.  The cause of the corrosion could be external to the pump I suppose.  There were not any leaks wetting the pump.  The only thing I can think of causing the corrosion was the plumbing fittings I used.  They were advertised as 316 stainless steel, but they are corroding internally like mad.  I'm replacing that plumbing with Pex, plastic fittings and stainless pinch rings.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: The two "sticks" on the genoa top swivel

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Thanks everyone for the informative responses on this topic. We're having a new set of horns fabricated and plan to cover them with some hose material. Anything one can do to reduce halyard wraps, cuts, jams, etc. is certainly worthwhile.

On a side note, while up at the masthead I noticed the foil/extrusion was heavily scratched around it's circumference for several inches right where the top swivel would sit. Perhaps there's an issue with our top swivel and it should be taken apart and serviced? Although while at deck level it spins easily and sounds very smooth. Or maybe the threads on the one horn we had up there were too long and made contact with the foil while furling? Just wondering if anyone has ever seen anything similar on their boat. Sorry no photo at the moment but I'll try and get one.

Cheers,
Mike & Hannah
SV Trilogy, SM#23
Panama


On Mon, 13 May 2019, 08:05 Gary Wells, <gary@...> wrote:
A short piece of fuel line and some contact cement make good "caps" for those 'horns'.
Having experienced a halyard wrap up there once, I wouldn't consider running without them.
If you are doing regular maintenance on the swivel then it's far less likely the horns would touch the mast, but if the swivel jams even slightly the horns are the best defense against getting the halyard wrapped and broken at the masthead.  
Can't really explain how I discovered this.  :)

Gary W.
SM 209, "Adagio"
Beaufort, NC USA


Re: Now locker floor replacement

Mike Ondra
 

Nice detail. I’m going to leave the steel stub in the floor. After installing the PVC pipe I’ll glass it in heavily as well. If the steel eventually rots out the PVC and fiberglass should conduct the chain into the locker effectively. Anyway that’s the theory.
Mikeimage1.jpeg
Aletes 


On May 19, 2019, at 10:27 AM, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

<IMG_20190312_112250625.jpg>My thinking was that the other 3 windlass bolts were secured by large fillets to the floor and supported by the floor joint to the vertical divider. I just created a 4th fillet for the back starboard bolt that also served as a header for my 4 inch Pvc. This piece is secured under the windlass by 7 screws and 5200. It fits inside the 4 inch Pvc and allows access to the back starboard windlass bolt because the bolt goes through the header plate. 


Re: Now locker floor replacement

Thomas Kleman
 

This is my fillet/header....note the back starboard windlass bolt. 4 inch Pvc works. Despite the appearance, I used silicone to seal the header to pvc joint and supported the PVC from below with my flange ring .I can remove the PVC easily if it ever needs replacement.


Re: Now locker floor replacement

Thomas Kleman
 

My thinking was that the other 3 windlass bolts were secured by large fillets to the floor and supported by the floor joint to the vertical divider. I just created a 4th fillet for the back starboard bolt that also served as a header for my 4 inch Pvc. This piece is secured under the windlass by 7 screws and 5200. It fits inside the 4 inch Pvc and allows access to the back starboard windlass bolt because the bolt goes through the header plate.