Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements
Thomas Kleman
I'm also saving Gary's process for a later date. Nine years ago I did the lines with a single part polyurethane paint (black) and have protected the deck and lines with Polytrol about once a year. No oxidation and lines are still intact. The deck color looks good too but I also have the mysterious back lazarette brush marks. Now I know why.
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Steyr impeller maintenance
Hello, inquiring for assistance for the best procedure to inspect and or replacement of my impeller, I have an Amel 55 with a Steyr 144 engine and the impeller is in a tight spot, I’m presuming the oil filter should be removed to be improve access. Has anyone had experience with this item? Regards Paul - Fortuna II
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Re: Anchors
amelforme
Hi Nick. I had the same anchoring set up on my Amel 54 #14. It was no contest. The Wasi Bugel was better in sand, mud, weeds and rocks. Set it correctly and sleep with both eyes closed. The Delta is not bad, just not as good as the Wasi. I think the swivel enhances the Wasi's utility. However, opinions on anchors are as diverse as those on sports cars, hunting dogs, girlfriends and...
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
JOEL F. POTTER CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY Office 954-462-5869
On Jun 25, 2019, at 9:10 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Anchors
I have three anchors on Amelia;
1. The original 33kg WASI Bugel supplied by Amel, currently my main anchor. 2. A 40kg Delta set up on the port windlass; so my second anchor. 3. A large aluminium Fortress that disassembles located in the Lazarette locker as my third. The question is; should I use the Delta 40kg as my primary rather than the WASI? They would sit better on the bow if the WASI was to port and the Delta to starboard. Put another way. So between a 33kg WASI and a 40Kg Delta which will hold better? Nick Anchored off Corfu town Amelia 54-019
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Re: Eberspacher 5L diesel heater
Duane Siegfri
Mark,
Thank you for the link. I'm heading home for the summer soon, so it will be a while before I know if it works.. Duane
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Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements
Patrick McAneny
Gary, I too have white areas on the aft lid showing thru and a few other places as well. Its been bothering me for years. The stripes are almost nonexistent ,and I don't mine the uniform color of the deck. I believe it looks better with the lines,but looks pretty good without them also, thus I have been thinking about repainting the entire deck one color ,slightly lighter to reduce the temp. Once the edges were taped out ,it would only take a couple of hours to roll n tip the entire deck with awlgrip . I roll n tipped my topsides 12 years ago and it only took me and a friend two hrs. per coat and you could not tell that it was not sprayed on. This winter I am having the boat repainted , sprayed this time ,to repair damage to the paint job ,that result from an improperly anchored 47 ft. cat that drug down on us in Guadeloupe at 4 am in 25 kts., sounded like a stick of dynamite went off in the boat. Beware of charter cats ! Lots of windage and they rent them to anyone with a credit card. Hardly ever see them anchor properly,I better not get started on that ,forgive the venting.
Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Sent: Mon, Jun 24, 2019 1:09 pm Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 05:00 AM, Thomas Peacock wrote:
One question: how has the non-slip surface held up with the new paint?Hi Thomas. The original light brown colored faux teak, while somewhat oxidized, is in good shape everywhere except the stern lazarette cover (the garage lid). That was evidently made by the apprentices at Amel and the gel coat there was brushed on rather than sprayed into the mold. This left a very non-uniform thickness of the gel coat and patches of brush mark pattern wore thru years ago. Still dithering about how to deal with that issue. Joel has indicated (thru the grapevine third hadn't) that the gel coat on that hatch is always the first too fail. Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 #335 Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico
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New Carpet
Greetings all,
I am in Trinidad now and would like to get new carpet while down here. Does anyone know a good source. Thanks for your time. Chuck Joy #388
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Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements
I would love to see a photo. I am about to start this task on Cara.
Denise McGovern s/v CARA SM #440 Deale, MD
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Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements
Addendum:
The quantity of paint required was about 1/2 quart of the topcoat color and 1/3 quart of the primer with appropriate amounts of catalyst for both. A one quart can of the topcoat was $99 US. Still waiting for the bill for primer and the catalysts but I am guessing about $400 in supplies. Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 # 335 Puerto Rico
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Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements
On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 05:00 AM, Thomas Peacock wrote:
One question: how has the non-slip surface held up with the new paint?Hi Thomas. The original light brown colored faux teak, while somewhat oxidized, is in good shape everywhere except the stern lazarette cover (the garage lid). That was evidently made by the apprentices at Amel and the gel coat there was brushed on rather than sprayed into the mold. This left a very non-uniform thickness of the gel coat and patches of brush mark pattern wore thru years ago. Still dithering about how to deal with that issue. Joel has indicated (thru the grapevine third hand) that the gel coat on that hatch is always the first too fail. Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 #335 Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico
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Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements
Gary Silver
"What and how much did you use to dull the paint to a matte finish?"
I just painted the deck stripes, not the entire faux teak. The original was a gel coat gloss finish brown (I bought the boat new so I know) and the new deck stripping is high gloss (probably higher gloss than the original gel coat. I suppose I could have added a flattener but chose not to do so. Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 # 335 Puerto Rico
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Re: Eberspacher 5L diesel heater
Mark McGovern
Duane,
Clean the corrosion off and pick up some of this to coat the PCB with: https://www.mgchemicals.com/products/conformal-coatings/silicone-conformal-coating-422b You can get it on Amazon. -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA
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Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements
Gary, I think we are due in a couple more years so I am going to save this beautiful description and meditate over it until then. I have the striping tool in my "for later" shopping cart on Amazon. :) Now I just have to wait to get up the resolve to start this one .. I think I may be building that up for many months!
Congrats, can't wait ti see some pictures of the process and the results. SM 209, Adagio Maryland, USA
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Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements
Gary,
Thanks for this. The deck repainting is a project I have been putting off since first taking ownership of Cream Puff. What and how much did you use to dull the paint to a matte finish?
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Gary Silver via Groups.Io
Hi all:
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Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements
James Alton
Gary, It sounds like to did an amazing paint job on your boat and I hope that you can get the 20 years. I have had Awlgrip last that long on my seasonally used boat stored in the North. I do not know of a more durable paint for Marine use than the Awlgrip. The Awlgrip does not seem to age noticeably in the absence of UV so you can extend the life if you can shade the boat some. Unlike the Brightsides, oxidation when it comes will tend to me on the surface so failure will still be a long way down the road. You can remove the oxidation if you want with a fine polish. I am am wondering if you did anything to improve the non-skid qualities of the final finish? If not, are you satisfied with the nonskid qualities of your Awlgripped deck? Thanks, James SV Sueno Arbatax, Italy Sent from Samsung tablet.
-------- Original message -------- From: Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> Date: 6/24/19 1:00 PM (GMT+01:00) To: "main@amelyachtowners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements You seem to have talked me out of re-doing our deck. We still have original, but it obviously looks quite tired. Huge project, either bricolage, or by hiring someone. One question: how has the non-slip surface held up with the new paint? Thanks, Tom Peacock SM #240 Aletes Chesapeake Bay
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Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements
Hello Gary, great summary and thanks for sharing. For whats its worth, i painted my deck and pilothouse with awlgrip on my last boat (a hudson force 50) and after 8 years in the blazing Florida sun it still looked brand new. I have been looking at the deck and stripes on my mango and contemplating painting it with awlgrip just not sure how to get the old paint off without sanding and losing the texture of the teak gelcoat...but you should expect the painting you did to last 10 plus years.
Arlo S/V Seaduction Mango # 46
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Re: Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements
Thomas Peacock
Hi Gary,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
You seem to have talked me out of re-doing our deck. We still have original, but it obviously looks quite tired. Huge project, either bricolage, or by hiring someone. One question: how has the non-slip surface held up with the new paint? Thanks, Tom Peacock SM #240 Aletes Chesapeake Bay
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Re: super maramu, vibrations generated when the engine is running
jlm@jlmertz.fr
Merci Peter, Many thanks for this help full informations, I will check the C drive movement as soon as possible .... Have a nice day.... JL Mertz CottonBay Le 24/06/2019 à 03:04, Peter de Groot a
écrit :
I just replaced that bushing on la Querida SM207 last week.
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Deck Stripes - Painting with Awlgrip - Details and Requirements
Gary Silver
Hi all:
I have painted my deck stripes twice before. Both times I used Interlux Brightside single part paint. It looked good for 3 years then looked marginal for 2 years before requiring repainting due to complete oxidative failure. In an attempt to get better durability I have just completed (mostly) repainting my deck stripes with Awlgrip two part catalyzed paint. After thorough research of all the Awlgrip printed technical materials and speaking with their tech representative I still had questions. I turned for answers to the folks who did my hurricane repairs who paint a lot with Awlgrip. Here is data: 1. Awlgrip is better for this application than Awlcraft as it is tougher and will withstand abrasion better. Awlcraft is easier to repair but not as durable. Either catalyzed paint will outperform single part paints by a wide margin. 2. You need to sand to a good solid substrate. In my case that meant getting to gelcoat. 3. You need to use an epoxy primer (in this case Awlgrip 545 primer, D8001 white with D9001 converter mixed 1:1), at least one coat for adhesion. Two coats are recommended but not really practical and 1 coat is acceptable. Induction time after mixing is 15 minutes and Pot Life (working time once catalyzed) is 4-8 hrs at 75 degrees, but can be extended longer if refrigerated. It is very thin (almost watery in viscosity). This thin viscosity required multiple passes with the stripping tool. I mixed it in 40 ml aliquots and that provided good usability for about 4 hrs of painting in the 90 degree heat. Reducer and cleanup is with lacquer thinner. 4. Two topcoat color coats are needed. I used Awlgrip Horizon Teak Topcoat (just couldn't bring myself to go with the cream colored deck stripes, too much of a traditionalist I guess) and H3002 Awl-cat #3 brushing converter. I reduced 15% with lacquer thinner (also very thin but slightly more viscous than the primer). Your overcoat is it at 16 hrs but if more than 24 hrs then you have to scuff sand between coats. Pot life isn't mentioned but didn't prove to be a problem, as reassured to me by my consultants, when mixing in about 40 ml aliquots that I would use within a couple of hours. Sanding: 13 days working 6 hrs a day (this didn't include the cockpit). This was a huge job!!!! I did detailed sanding to get to gelcoat from the two prior paint jobs that I had done. Painting: 8 days painting 10 - 12 hrs a day (again excluding the cockpit). This was psychologically daunting especially following on the heels of the sanding marathon. For those who have done a one coat paint job you know it takes about 3 days to scuff sand and paint, but to have to do the three minimum required coats was really hard on knees, wrists, back, and spirits. There was also a lot of timing involved to minimize scuff sanding between coats. It looks great, the cockpit will have to wait until our next trip to the boat because we simply ran out of time and failed to complete some other projects due to the huge time investment in this project. Would I do it again? I am not sure. If it stays looking good for 20 years then perhaps, I'll tell you down the road if the investment paid off. If one had a crew you could train and trust for this detailed work that would help but there is a high level of punctiliousness needed here and I wasn't sure I could find anyone who would invest the effort to achieve the level of detail that the job demanded. I'll hire out to do your boat, my price is about $65,000 for the job. ;-) All the best, Gary S. Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335 (2001) Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico
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Re: super maramu, vibrations generated when the engine is running
Peter de Groot
I just replaced that bushing on la Querida SM207 last week.
After replacing the fixed 19" prop with the original Autoprop (that the previous owner had removed) I found the vibration had increased. When checking the C drive movement above the keel weight, there was more than 5mm but less than 10mm movement. It seemed excessive, I checked in with Bill R, and then scraped away the sealing material. In my case the bolt was loose. so I found a soft but tight bushing material and reassembled making sure the bolt was snug. This has been the first weekend out since replacing and the vibration seem less, but not eliminated....(I know ...not very scientific). Worthy of a mention: To get the bolt centered, lateral adjustment (port to starboard) is easy, fore and aft adjustment is much stiffer. My fore and aft alignment was 3 to 4 mm off in its unflexed state. I could get alignment perfect by prying with considerable leverage. Instead I opted for a softer hose material which absorbed the misalignment. I concluded the fore-aft alignment could be affected by too many factors in the engine compartment, and pressed for time I chose not to investigate further. I'd be curious if any other Amelites have found similar conditions. Peter de Groot la Querida SM207 Moss Landing, California
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