1. main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
   Date   
Re: Standing rigging on 54

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi Bill and AMEL friends,

I will be in Sicily (Marina di Ragusa) next winter and I will E-mail Nicky asking him for some Rigging work. 
Is there any other AMEL staying nearby in Sicily next winter, who is interested for a rigging check or some work with Nicky?

Best regards
Ruedi 
"SY WASABI"
Amel 54. #55
Currently in Methoni, Greece

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Dienstag, 11. Juni 2019 um 16:07
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Standing rigging on 54


"Nicky" from Malta is what you meant to say. I always recommend Nicky Samut in Malta for any Med rigging issues. I suspect that Nicky has a lot of air miles. During the winter season he will be in Sicily at least 2 weeks working on rigging. He has also upgraded Bamar furlers. And, Nicky is a Yacht School Preferred Vendor, the only rigger in Europe selected as a rigging Preferred Vendor.


Contact: nickysail"at"hotmail.com. BTW, Nicky has sailed/crewed on most all Amel models, including a 64.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Tue, Jun 11, 2019, 7:44 AM Roque <ediroque@...> wrote:
Mohammad & Aty

I had a few cracked wires at the main too (#117). I reported this fact to ACMO in november 2018. 
  Would you care to tell when you informed ACMO about this failure? Was it last year? 

Thank you for you input. 

Roque
Attika A54 - 117
Santos - Brazil  


Em ter, 11 de jun de 2019 às 07:32, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> escreveu:
Hello Porter;

I hope you guys are doing well and the engine issues are now behind you.

We are replacing all 6 shrouds at the main because ACMO had a crack in one of the original long shrouds that we found in our rig inspection last year.

They did extend a 10% discount because of this so the total shipped to Corfu was 5000 euros.

Off course you only need to upgrade the mid and lower shrouds so your pricing will be less. I did receive a complete quote for all rigging that I will forward to you shortly.

I, like you, try to do everything I can myself, which is about 90%. It’s better to make a mistake and learn while help is available. However, the cruising season in the Med is short so I do elect to use known outside people if necessary so we get to enjoy the season.

The rigging is definitely one of them, at this point, for us. So I’m flying Ricky from Malta to Corfu for 2 days to take care of the shrouds and some lighting and wind cane issues.

Enjoy Tahiti. We chartered there in 2008 and had a great time.


Mohammad & Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099

> On Jun 10, 2019, at 10:08 PM, Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
>
> Dear Mohammad and Aty
>
> Would you be willing to let me or us know the cost from ACMO?
> This seems very tempting to do myself?  Then have a rigger double check.  A lot of work, yes but interesting and tempting!
>
> Many thanks.
>
> Porter
>
> S/V IBIS 54-152
> Tahiti.
>
> Excuse the errors.
> Sent from my IPhone
> Www.fouribis.com
>
>> On Jun 6, 2019, at 11:19 PM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks guys, it looks like if I order from ACMO then it is a straight swap. So that is what I will do.
>> I have thought hard about all this and at the end of the day I do not want to have that niggling feeling that my rigging is not up to it on a dark stormy night!
>> Nick
>>> On 7 Jun 2019, at 11:42, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hello Nick;
>>>
>>> We are currently going though the same process and we have just released the order to ACMO.
>>>
>>> If ordered from ACMO, you will receive the entire parts required for the upgrade. This includes a “stronger” pin, as ACMO puts it, the turn buckles and threaded eye. I just again reconfirmed this with ACMO. If you look at your connections at the chain plates, the parts have an ACMO stamp on them.
>>>
>>> Therefore according to ACMO, no other parts will be necessary, it is just a matter of removing the existing shrouds and installing new.
>>>
>>> I will provide an update if we find anything that contradicts this during the install.
>>>
>>> Respectfully;
>>>
>>>
>>> Mohammad & Aty
>>> B&B Kokomo
>>> Amel 54 #099
>>>
>>>> On Jun 7, 2019, at 7:27 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Further to the news that the Amel 54 should have 12mm aft lowers not 10mm and that the intermediates should be beefed up from 8mm to 10mm. I am now seriously working this out.
>>>> On the face of it I can order the replacement wire and fittings from ACMO in France and have it a week later. What worries me is that the pin sizes will increase (I guess)
>>>> This should be no problem at the bottom where there is a massive chainplate that I could drill out to accept the bigger pins but at the top at the spreader bases it will be tricky.
>>>> Has anyone been there and done this project?
>>>> What about sticking to 8mm and 10 mm but upgrading the wire quality to say Dyform? Dyform offers about 30% more strength than standard 1x19?
>>>> Any experts out there?
>>>> Nick
>>>> S/Y Amelia AML54-019
>>>> Anchored in Kefalonia enjoying easy living after 2000 mile voyage from Canary Islands.
>
>
>
>



Re: Bow thruster seals

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Jose,

Well done for finding a solution to your leak problem. However your comment about the wear from use has triggered this question. Do you have the Amel designed retrofit anti twist system. This is a vertical 25 mm tube mounted beside the thruster. There is a bracket mounted on top the thruster motor that engages with this. The Amel service agent in Fort Lauderdale (his name escapes me) told me he had a lot of work fitting these in the 2000's 

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 14 June 2019 at 05:32 "Jose Venegas via Groups.Io" <josegvenegas@...> wrote:

Danny,
I understand very well how the system SHOULD work and, if everything is new, the seals should work as designed.  Unfortunately, wear can change the system and, in my case nothing worked to stop the leak, including several adjustments of cable tension, and increasing compression by the pin.  As I said in my previous e-mails, I believe the problem occurs because the wear of the surfaces between the hull and the thruster that guide its motion result in a misalignment between the trunk and the seal, causing a lateral force on the lip seal which makes it incompetent allowing water intake.  The misalignment also results in the sealing surfaces between the donut seals and the hull are no longer parallel affecting its sealing action.   Following Amel instructions and wasting seals, money and time I realized that the problem could be corrected by designing a seal that would be made of a softer material and have lips that could maintain the seal in the presence of misalignment.   That solved the problem 3 years ago and I have had a dry bilge ever since.!!
In my design, I used two seals in series: a silicone wiper below and a silicone u-cup on top. This results in a slight protrusion of the seal above the horizontal fiberglass surface, as it can be seen in the pix I sent before.    I used silicone glue to secure the seals in place and was planning to add washers to secure them to the fiberglass, but after several months of procrastination, I realized that the glue was sufficient to keep the seals in place.  3 years later, using the thruster twice per week, almost every week during 6 months each summer, including a Marion to Bermuda race the seals are still working as new.  Since I add silicone grease to the trunk every year and, given the number of times (~50/year) that I use the thruster,   I am expecting that they will last a very long time.  So far I have serviced the thruster every year but have decided not to change any of the seals, including the donut seals, which looked in excellent condition.

I just received the quote from the seal manufacturer and it is as follows:

10 pcs. Silicone wiper $ 31.65ea.

10 pcs. Silicone u-cup  $ 32.50ea.


This it will be about $65 per set plus shipment and  It will take  14-17 business days to ship from the order

so far I have received requests from:

Bob Ross,  sv Nomad, Trinidad (1 set) 
 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Greece (?sets)
Chuck_Kim_Joy (? sets)
Steve Davis Aloha SM72  Ko Olina, Hawaii (? sets)
Mark, Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 (? sets)
Dan Taylor (2 sets)
Gerald Bassin Jetlag, SM113 (2 sets)

Since I want to place the order this week I will appreciate if each of you can e-mail me directly with your e-mail, the number of sets you want and the address two where it should be shipped.   
We still need to figure out the cost of shipping to each one of you and how you will transfer me the money, but given that is something we can figure out later.

Jose 
Ipanema SM2k 278, Boston


Re: Bow thruster seals

Patrick McAneny
 

Jose, Please put me down for one set . 
Pat McAneny
14109 3rd. Ave.
Kennedyville, Md.21645

Thank You,
Pat SM Shenanigans
PS I may be sailing by Boston in July,do you live aboard ? May anchor there and save the postage.


-----Original Message-----
From: Jose Venegas via Groups.Io <josegvenegas@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Thu, Jun 13, 2019 1:32 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow thruster seals

Danny,
I understand very well how the system SHOULD work and, if everything is new, the seals should work as designed.  Unfortunately, wear can change the system and, in my case nothing worked to stop the leak, including several adjustments of cable tension, and increasing compression by the pin.  As I said in my previous e-mails, I believe the problem occurs because the wear of the surfaces between the hull and the thruster that guide its motion result in a misalignment between the trunk and the seal, causing a lateral force on the lip seal which makes it incompetent allowing water intake.  The misalignment also results in the sealing surfaces between the donut seals and the hull are no longer parallel affecting its sealing action.   Following Amel instructions and wasting seals, money and time I realized that the problem could be corrected by designing a seal that would be made of a softer material and have lips that could maintain the seal in the presence of misalignment.   That solved the problem 3 years ago and I have had a dry bilge ever since.!!
In my design, I used two seals in series: a silicone wiper below and a silicone u-cup on top. This results in a slight protrusion of the seal above the horizontal fiberglass surface, as it can be seen in the pix I sent before.    I used silicone glue to secure the seals in place and was planning to add washers to secure them to the fiberglass, but after several months of procrastination, I realized that the glue was sufficient to keep the seals in place.  3 years later, using the thruster twice per week, almost every week during 6 months each summer, including a Marion to Bermuda race the seals are still working as new.  Since I add silicone grease to the trunk every year and, given the number of times (~50/year) that I use the thruster,   I am expecting that they will last a very long time.  So far I have serviced the thruster every year but have decided not to change any of the seals, including the donut seals, which looked in excellent condition.

I just received the quote from the seal manufacturer and it is as follows:
10 pcs. Silicone wiper $ 31.65ea.
10 pcs. Silicone u-cup  $ 32.50ea.

This it will be about $65 per set plus shipment and It will take  14-17 business days to ship from the order

so far I have received requests from:

Bob Ross, sv Nomad, Trinidad (1 set) 
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Greece (?sets)
Chuck_Kim_Joy (? sets)
Steve Davis Aloha SM72  Ko Olina, Hawaii (? sets)
Mark, Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 (? sets)
Dan Taylor (2 sets)
Gerald Bassin Jetlag, SM113 (2 sets)

Since I want to place the order this week I will appreciate if each of you can e-mail me directly with your e-mail, the number of sets you want and the address two where it should be shipped.   
We still need to figure out the cost of shipping to each one of you and how you will transfer me the money, but given that is something we can figure out later.

Jose 
Ipanema SM2k 278, Boston
Re: Bow thruster seals

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Jose,

 Thanks very much for doing this.   I would like to buy two sets. My home address is   Ian Jenkins,  39, Sheen Common Drive, Richmond England TW10 5BW
 You may want to send  your payment details to my home email which is penazen@...

Many thanks,

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Greece

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Stephen Davis <flyboyscd@...>
Sent: 13 June 2019 17:49
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow thruster seals
 
Hi Jose,

I’d like to get 2 sets. Thanks again for doing this for the group. When you figure out how you would like to be paid, let me know. 

Regards,

Steve Davis
Aloha SM 72
Ko Olina, Hawaii

On Jun 13, 2019, at 12:32, Jose Venegas via Groups.Io <josegvenegas@...> wrote:

Danny,
I understand very well how the system SHOULD work and, if everything is new, the seals should work as designed.  Unfortunately, wear can change the system and, in my case nothing worked to stop the leak, including several adjustments of cable tension, and increasing compression by the pin.  As I said in my previous e-mails, I believe the problem occurs because the wear of the surfaces between the hull and the thruster that guide its motion result in a misalignment between the trunk and the seal, causing a lateral force on the lip seal which makes it incompetent allowing water intake.  The misalignment also results in the sealing surfaces between the donut seals and the hull are no longer parallel affecting its sealing action.   Following Amel instructions and wasting seals, money and time I realized that the problem could be corrected by designing a seal that would be made of a softer material and have lips that could maintain the seal in the presence of misalignment.   That solved the problem 3 years ago and I have had a dry bilge ever since.!!
In my design, I used two seals in series: a silicone wiper below and a silicone u-cup on top. This results in a slight protrusion of the seal above the horizontal fiberglass surface, as it can be seen in the pix I sent before.    I used silicone glue to secure the seals in place and was planning to add washers to secure them to the fiberglass, but after several months of procrastination, I realized that the glue was sufficient to keep the seals in place.  3 years later, using the thruster twice per week, almost every week during 6 months each summer, including a Marion to Bermuda race the seals are still working as new.  Since I add silicone grease to the trunk every year and, given the number of times (~50/year) that I use the thruster,   I am expecting that they will last a very long time.  So far I have serviced the thruster every year but have decided not to change any of the seals, including the donut seals, which looked in excellent condition.

I just received the quote from the seal manufacturer and it is as follows:

10 pcs. Silicone wiper $ 31.65ea.

10 pcs. Silicone u-cup  $ 32.50ea.


This it will be about $65 per set plus shipment and It will take  14-17 business days to ship from the order

so far I have received requests from:

Bob Ross, sv Nomad, Trinidad (1 set) 
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Greece (?sets)
Chuck_Kim_Joy (? sets)
Steve Davis Aloha SM72  Ko Olina, Hawaii (? sets)
Mark, Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 (? sets)
Dan Taylor (2 sets)
Gerald Bassin Jetlag, SM113 (2 sets)

Since I want to place the order this week I will appreciate if each of you can e-mail me directly with your e-mail, the number of sets you want and the address two where it should be shipped.   
We still need to figure out the cost of shipping to each one of you and how you will transfer me the money, but given that is something we can figure out later.

Jose 
Ipanema SM2k 278, Boston
Re: Bow thruster seals

Stephen Davis
 

Hi Jose,

I’d like to get 2 sets. Thanks again for doing this for the group. When you figure out how you would like to be paid, let me know. 

Regards,

Steve Davis
Aloha SM 72
Ko Olina, Hawaii

On Jun 13, 2019, at 12:32, Jose Venegas via Groups.Io <josegvenegas@...> wrote:

Danny,
I understand very well how the system SHOULD work and, if everything is new, the seals should work as designed.  Unfortunately, wear can change the system and, in my case nothing worked to stop the leak, including several adjustments of cable tension, and increasing compression by the pin.  As I said in my previous e-mails, I believe the problem occurs because the wear of the surfaces between the hull and the thruster that guide its motion result in a misalignment between the trunk and the seal, causing a lateral force on the lip seal which makes it incompetent allowing water intake.  The misalignment also results in the sealing surfaces between the donut seals and the hull are no longer parallel affecting its sealing action.   Following Amel instructions and wasting seals, money and time I realized that the problem could be corrected by designing a seal that would be made of a softer material and have lips that could maintain the seal in the presence of misalignment.   That solved the problem 3 years ago and I have had a dry bilge ever since.!!
In my design, I used two seals in series: a silicone wiper below and a silicone u-cup on top. This results in a slight protrusion of the seal above the horizontal fiberglass surface, as it can be seen in the pix I sent before.    I used silicone glue to secure the seals in place and was planning to add washers to secure them to the fiberglass, but after several months of procrastination, I realized that the glue was sufficient to keep the seals in place.  3 years later, using the thruster twice per week, almost every week during 6 months each summer, including a Marion to Bermuda race the seals are still working as new.  Since I add silicone grease to the trunk every year and, given the number of times (~50/year) that I use the thruster,   I am expecting that they will last a very long time.  So far I have serviced the thruster every year but have decided not to change any of the seals, including the donut seals, which looked in excellent condition.

I just received the quote from the seal manufacturer and it is as follows:

10 pcs. Silicone wiper $ 31.65ea.

10 pcs. Silicone u-cup  $ 32.50ea.


This it will be about $65 per set plus shipment and It will take  14-17 business days to ship from the order

so far I have received requests from:

Bob Ross, sv Nomad, Trinidad (1 set) 
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Greece (?sets)
Chuck_Kim_Joy (? sets)
Steve Davis Aloha SM72  Ko Olina, Hawaii (? sets)
Mark, Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 (? sets)
Dan Taylor (2 sets)
Gerald Bassin Jetlag, SM113 (2 sets)

Since I want to place the order this week I will appreciate if each of you can e-mail me directly with your e-mail, the number of sets you want and the address two where it should be shipped.   
We still need to figure out the cost of shipping to each one of you and how you will transfer me the money, but given that is something we can figure out later.

Jose 
Ipanema SM2k 278, Boston
Re: Bow thruster seals

karkauai
 

Hi Jose,
Please add me to your list.  I’d like 2 sets, too.
I’ll be in Maryland USA until November.

Thank you for doing this.  If they can ship directly to me the address is 
7025 Thorneton Rd
Easton MD 21601

If you take the whole shipment and ship them yourself, don’t estimate the cost of shipping...I made that mistake with the door handles :-)

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy SM 243
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:32 PM, Jose Venegas via Groups.Io <josegvenegas@...> wrote:

Danny,
I understand very well how the system SHOULD work and, if everything is new, the seals should work as designed.  Unfortunately, wear can change the system and, in my case nothing worked to stop the leak, including several adjustments of cable tension, and increasing compression by the pin.  As I said in my previous e-mails, I believe the problem occurs because the wear of the surfaces between the hull and the thruster that guide its motion result in a misalignment between the trunk and the seal, causing a lateral force on the lip seal which makes it incompetent allowing water intake.  The misalignment also results in the sealing surfaces between the donut seals and the hull are no longer parallel affecting its sealing action.   Following Amel instructions and wasting seals, money and time I realized that the problem could be corrected by designing a seal that would be made of a softer material and have lips that could maintain the seal in the presence of misalignment.   That solved the problem 3 years ago and I have had a dry bilge ever since.!!
In my design, I used two seals in series: a silicone wiper below and a silicone u-cup on top. This results in a slight protrusion of the seal above the horizontal fiberglass surface, as it can be seen in the pix I sent before.    I used silicone glue to secure the seals in place and was planning to add washers to secure them to the fiberglass, but after several months of procrastination, I realized that the glue was sufficient to keep the seals in place.  3 years later, using the thruster twice per week, almost every week during 6 months each summer, including a Marion to Bermuda race the seals are still working as new.  Since I add silicone grease to the trunk every year and, given the number of times (~50/year) that I use the thruster,   I am expecting that they will last a very long time.  So far I have serviced the thruster every year but have decided not to change any of the seals, including the donut seals, which looked in excellent condition.

I just received the quote from the seal manufacturer and it is as follows:

10 pcs. Silicone wiper $ 31.65ea.

10 pcs. Silicone u-cup  $ 32.50ea.


This it will be about $65 per set plus shipment and It will take  14-17 business days to ship from the order

so far I have received requests from:

Bob Ross, sv Nomad, Trinidad (1 set) 
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Greece (?sets)
Chuck_Kim_Joy (? sets)
Steve Davis Aloha SM72  Ko Olina, Hawaii (? sets)
Mark, Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 (? sets)
Dan Taylor (2 sets)
Gerald Bassin Jetlag, SM113 (2 sets)

Since I want to place the order this week I will appreciate if each of you can e-mail me directly with your e-mail, the number of sets you want and the address two where it should be shipped.   
We still need to figure out the cost of shipping to each one of you and how you will transfer me the money, but given that is something we can figure out later.

Jose 
Ipanema SM2k 278, Boston
Re: Bow thruster seals

Jose Venegas
 

Danny,
I understand very well how the system SHOULD work and, if everything is new, the seals should work as designed.  Unfortunately, wear can change the system and, in my case nothing worked to stop the leak, including several adjustments of cable tension, and increasing compression by the pin.  As I said in my previous e-mails, I believe the problem occurs because the wear of the surfaces between the hull and the thruster that guide its motion result in a misalignment between the trunk and the seal, causing a lateral force on the lip seal which makes it incompetent allowing water intake.  The misalignment also results in the sealing surfaces between the donut seals and the hull are no longer parallel affecting its sealing action.   Following Amel instructions and wasting seals, money and time I realized that the problem could be corrected by designing a seal that would be made of a softer material and have lips that could maintain the seal in the presence of misalignment.   That solved the problem 3 years ago and I have had a dry bilge ever since.!!
In my design, I used two seals in series: a silicone wiper below and a silicone u-cup on top. This results in a slight protrusion of the seal above the horizontal fiberglass surface, as it can be seen in the pix I sent before.    I used silicone glue to secure the seals in place and was planning to add washers to secure them to the fiberglass, but after several months of procrastination, I realized that the glue was sufficient to keep the seals in place.  3 years later, using the thruster twice per week, almost every week during 6 months each summer, including a Marion to Bermuda race the seals are still working as new.  Since I add silicone grease to the trunk every year and, given the number of times (~50/year) that I use the thruster,   I am expecting that they will last a very long time.  So far I have serviced the thruster every year but have decided not to change any of the seals, including the donut seals, which looked in excellent condition.

I just received the quote from the seal manufacturer and it is as follows:

10 pcs. Silicone wiper $ 31.65ea.

10 pcs. Silicone u-cup  $ 32.50ea.


This it will be about $65 per set plus shipment and It will take  14-17 business days to ship from the order

so far I have received requests from:

Bob Ross, sv Nomad, Trinidad (1 set) 
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Greece (?sets)
Chuck_Kim_Joy (? sets)
Steve Davis Aloha SM72  Ko Olina, Hawaii (? sets)
Mark, Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 (? sets)
Dan Taylor (2 sets)
Gerald Bassin Jetlag, SM113 (2 sets)

Since I want to place the order this week I will appreciate if each of you can e-mail me directly with your e-mail, the number of sets you want and the address two where it should be shipped.   
We still need to figure out the cost of shipping to each one of you and how you will transfer me the money, but given that is something we can figure out later.

Jose 
Ipanema SM2k 278, Boston
Re: gross and net tonnage

Denise McGovern
 

Pat,

Based on USCG Form 5397, Application for Simplified Measurement, CARA is documented 26 GRT and 23 NRT.

Denise
SM #440 CARA
Deale, MD, USA

--
Denise McGovern
mcgovern.denise@...
gross and net tonnage

Patrick McAneny
 

I am getting ready to renew my C.G. documentation and I want to correct the stated tonnage ,which is wrong and overstated. While in the Caribbean this year we overcharged upon entry based on the tonnage . My gross is shown to be 58GRT and net is shown to be 46NRT. Could someone tell me the correct numbers for a SM registered in the US. This is the second time down there and have probably paid well over a hundred more than we should have,I should have taken care of this years ago. Once we were with another SM checking in to BVI and we paid significantly more to customs, because they had much lower tonnage.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123
Re: Furling motor brushes

James Cromie
 

Thanks Mark and Kelly for confirming.  

-James

On Jun 13, 2019, at 12:13 PM, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:

James,

The SPR-A007 brush fit perfectly in both my main furler motor and outhaul motor.  The link on the Eurton website says "A005" in the hyperlink for some reason but the correct part number is SPR-A007. 
 
--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: Furling motor brushes

Mark McGovern
 

James,

The SPR-A007 brush fit perfectly in both my main furler motor and outhaul motor.  The link on the Eurton website says "A005" in the hyperlink for some reason but the correct part number is SPR-A007. 
 
--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA
Re: Furling motor brushes

Kelly Ran
 

James-- the part number is SPR-A007.
The Eurton website has an incorrect URL, which is why I used a hyperlink in my initial email.
If you click on the link, you'll see that the page is for the 007 brush.

-kelly

On Thu, Jun 13, 2019 at 11:47 AM James Cromie via Groups.Io <jamescromie=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Mark - you used the A005 brush, and not the A007 from Eurton?  I believe someone else posted using the A007 for the Leroy Somer motor, but it looks like yours fit perfectly.  
Could you confirm that it is indeed the A005 that you used? 

By the way, the genoa toe pulleys look nice on my boat!  I’m about to try them out. 

Many Thanks.
James
SV Soteria SM2K 347  

On Jun 9, 2019, at 2:41 PM, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:

Thanks Kelly and Ryan for the information! These worked perfectly in our Leroy Somer MBT86M Main Furler and Outhaul motors.  Our main furler stopped working under any load at the end of last season.  It would spin freely when not loaded and I was able to easily furl and unfurl the mainsail manually so I figured it was likely worn brushes and/or a dirty armature.  Sure enough, it was both.  I replaced the brushes and cleaned the armature and they both work great.  Here is a direct link to the place I bought them:
https://store.eurtonelectric.com/31x31x6brushspr-a005-1-1-1.aspx

And here are some pictures of the brushes:

New brush on the left and old brush on right:
<IMG_20190609_130915759.jpg>


<IMG_20190609_130529854.jpg><IMG_20190609_130533911.jpg><IMG_20190609_130535656.jpg>
They really are a perfect fit and they are even cheaper when you buy 11 or more so I stocked up.  Thanks again for the information.  I love this group!

-
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: Furling motor brushes

James Cromie
 

Mark - you used the A005 brush, and not the A007 from Eurton?  I believe someone else posted using the A007 for the Leroy Somer motor, but it looks like yours fit perfectly.  
Could you confirm that it is indeed the A005 that you used? 

By the way, the genoa toe pulleys look nice on my boat!  I’m about to try them out. 

Many Thanks.
James
SV Soteria SM2K 347  

On Jun 9, 2019, at 2:41 PM, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:

Thanks Kelly and Ryan for the information! These worked perfectly in our Leroy Somer MBT86M Main Furler and Outhaul motors.  Our main furler stopped working under any load at the end of last season.  It would spin freely when not loaded and I was able to easily furl and unfurl the mainsail manually so I figured it was likely worn brushes and/or a dirty armature.  Sure enough, it was both.  I replaced the brushes and cleaned the armature and they both work great.  Here is a direct link to the place I bought them:
https://store.eurtonelectric.com/31x31x6brushspr-a005-1-1-1.aspx

And here are some pictures of the brushes:

New brush on the left and old brush on right:
<IMG_20190609_130915759.jpg>


<IMG_20190609_130529854.jpg><IMG_20190609_130533911.jpg><IMG_20190609_130535656.jpg>
They really are a perfect fit and they are even cheaper when you buy 11 or more so I stocked up.  Thanks again for the information.  I love this group!

-
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: Battery temp monitor and alarm

rossirossix4
 

I am curious about the loudness of the alarm.  I have the model that Bill posted, and mounted down by the battery switches.  The alarm is not very loud and I think would not be noticed while motoring.  We observe frequently but a loud alarm would be good.
Bob, KAIMI SM 429
Re: Standing rigging on 54

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Good morning  Barry;

We will be in Gouvia marina. Nicky is only flying to Corfu and figuring the time required to complete the work that we have laid out for him. If you think you will need some work done, it would be best to contact Nicky directly so he can figure the time required for the items you have also and book his flights accordingly. This is high season for him and he is very busy so the sooner you can let him know, the better.

Respectfully;

Mohammad and Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099

On Jun 13, 2019, at 8:56 AM, Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry@...> wrote:

Hi Mohammed,
We will be in Corfu around this time.
Which marina are you going to be in?
Not sure if I need anything but might think of something that should be checked. I do need to replace my mast pad which I have onboard. Still waiting on AMEL Hyeres for my new 10mm bow furler stem connection, my boat was one the few installed with the 6mm furler stem.
Best
Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
In Preveza tonight


On Jun 12, 2019, at 08:40, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

It would be best to make contact soon as Nicky is trying to tie down plane tickets.

Respectfully;


Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-454-3148 Fax

On Jun 11, 2019, at 11:45 PM, CW Bill Rouse via Groups.Io <brouse@...> wrote:

Mohammad,

Tony Wells said he is interested. I believe he will contact you or Nicky.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Tue, Jun 11, 2019 at 3:27 PM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
Hi Bill; i don’t know if I mistyped or if it was Iphone. Nicky.

Nicky is trying to setup to be in Corfu June 24-26 to work on our rig, if any one is in need of any work.

Respectfully;


Mohammad & Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099

On Jun 11, 2019, at 4:08 PM, CW Bill Rouse via Groups.Io <brouse@...> wrote:


"Nicky" from Malta is what you meant to say. I always recommend Nicky Samut in Malta for any Med rigging issues. I suspect that Nicky has a lot of air miles. During the winter season he will be in Sicily at least 2 weeks working on rigging. He has also upgraded Bamar furlers. And, Nicky is a Yacht School Preferred Vendor, the only rigger in Europe selected as a rigging Preferred Vendor.


Contact: nickysail"at"hotmail.com. BTW, Nicky has sailed/crewed on most all Amel models, including a 64.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Tue, Jun 11, 2019, 7:44 AM Roque <ediroque@...> wrote:
Mohammad & Aty

I had a few cracked wires at the main too (#117). I reported this fact to ACMO in november 2018. 
  Would you care to tell when you informed ACMO about this failure? Was it last year? 

Thank you for you input. 

Roque
Attika A54 - 117
Santos - Brazil  


Em ter, 11 de jun de 2019 às 07:32, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> escreveu:
Hello Porter;

I hope you guys are doing well and the engine issues are now behind you.

We are replacing all 6 shrouds at the main because ACMO had a crack in one of the original long shrouds that we found in our rig inspection last year.

They did extend a 10% discount because of this so the total shipped to Corfu was 5000 euros.

Off course you only need to upgrade the mid and lower shrouds so your pricing will be less. I did receive a complete quote for all rigging that I will forward to you shortly.

I, like you, try to do everything I can myself, which is about 90%. It’s better to make a mistake and learn while help is available. However, the cruising season in the Med is short so I do elect to use known outside people if necessary so we get to enjoy the season.

The rigging is definitely one of them, at this point, for us. So I’m flying Ricky from Malta to Corfu for 2 days to take care of the shrouds and some lighting and wind cane issues.

Enjoy Tahiti. We chartered there in 2008 and had a great time.


Mohammad & Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099

> On Jun 10, 2019, at 10:08 PM, Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
>
> Dear Mohammad and Aty
>
> Would you be willing to let me or us know the cost from ACMO?
> This seems very tempting to do myself?  Then have a rigger double check.  A lot of work, yes but interesting and tempting!
>
> Many thanks.
>
> Porter
>
> S/V IBIS 54-152
> Tahiti.
>
> Excuse the errors.
> Sent from my IPhone
> Www.fouribis.com
>
>> On Jun 6, 2019, at 11:19 PM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks guys, it looks like if I order from ACMO then it is a straight swap. So that is what I will do.
>> I have thought hard about all this and at the end of the day I do not want to have that niggling feeling that my rigging is not up to it on a dark stormy night!
>> Nick
>>> On 7 Jun 2019, at 11:42, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hello Nick;
>>>
>>> We are currently going though the same process and we have just released the order to ACMO.
>>>
>>> If ordered from ACMO, you will receive the entire parts required for the upgrade. This includes a “stronger” pin, as ACMO puts it, the turn buckles and threaded eye. I just again reconfirmed this with ACMO. If you look at your connections at the chain plates, the parts have an ACMO stamp on them.
>>>
>>> Therefore according to ACMO, no other parts will be necessary, it is just a matter of removing the existing shrouds and installing new.
>>>
>>> I will provide an update if we find anything that contradicts this during the install.
>>>
>>> Respectfully;
>>>
>>>
>>> Mohammad & Aty
>>> B&B Kokomo
>>> Amel 54 #099
>>>
>>>> On Jun 7, 2019, at 7:27 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Further to the news that the Amel 54 should have 12mm aft lowers not 10mm and that the intermediates should be beefed up from 8mm to 10mm. I am now seriously working this out.
>>>> On the face of it I can order the replacement wire and fittings from ACMO in France and have it a week later. What worries me is that the pin sizes will increase (I guess)
>>>> This should be no problem at the bottom where there is a massive chainplate that I could drill out to accept the bigger pins but at the top at the spreader bases it will be tricky.
>>>> Has anyone been there and done this project?
>>>> What about sticking to 8mm and 10 mm but upgrading the wire quality to say Dyform? Dyform offers about 30% more strength than standard 1x19?
>>>> Any experts out there?
>>>> Nick
>>>> S/Y Amelia AML54-019
>>>> Anchored in Kefalonia enjoying easy living after 2000 mile voyage from Canary Islands.
>
>
>
>



Re: Standing rigging on 54

Barry Connor
 

Hi Mohammed,
We will be in Corfu around this time.
Which marina are you going to be in?
Not sure if I need anything but might think of something that should be checked. I do need to replace my mast pad which I have onboard. Still waiting on AMEL Hyeres for my new 10mm bow furler stem connection, my boat was one the few installed with the 6mm furler stem.
Best
Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
In Preveza tonight


On Jun 12, 2019, at 08:40, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

It would be best to make contact soon as Nicky is trying to tie down plane tickets.

Respectfully;


Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-454-3148 Fax

On Jun 11, 2019, at 11:45 PM, CW Bill Rouse via Groups.Io <brouse@...> wrote:

Mohammad,

Tony Wells said he is interested. I believe he will contact you or Nicky.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Tue, Jun 11, 2019 at 3:27 PM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
Hi Bill; i don’t know if I mistyped or if it was Iphone. Nicky.

Nicky is trying to setup to be in Corfu June 24-26 to work on our rig, if any one is in need of any work.

Respectfully;


Mohammad & Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099

On Jun 11, 2019, at 4:08 PM, CW Bill Rouse via Groups.Io <brouse@...> wrote:


"Nicky" from Malta is what you meant to say. I always recommend Nicky Samut in Malta for any Med rigging issues. I suspect that Nicky has a lot of air miles. During the winter season he will be in Sicily at least 2 weeks working on rigging. He has also upgraded Bamar furlers. And, Nicky is a Yacht School Preferred Vendor, the only rigger in Europe selected as a rigging Preferred Vendor.


Contact: nickysail"at"hotmail.com. BTW, Nicky has sailed/crewed on most all Amel models, including a 64.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners
www.YachtSchool.us
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Tue, Jun 11, 2019, 7:44 AM Roque <ediroque@...> wrote:
Mohammad & Aty

I had a few cracked wires at the main too (#117). I reported this fact to ACMO in november 2018. 
  Would you care to tell when you informed ACMO about this failure? Was it last year? 

Thank you for you input. 

Roque
Attika A54 - 117
Santos - Brazil  


Em ter, 11 de jun de 2019 às 07:32, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> escreveu:
Hello Porter;

I hope you guys are doing well and the engine issues are now behind you.

We are replacing all 6 shrouds at the main because ACMO had a crack in one of the original long shrouds that we found in our rig inspection last year.

They did extend a 10% discount because of this so the total shipped to Corfu was 5000 euros.

Off course you only need to upgrade the mid and lower shrouds so your pricing will be less. I did receive a complete quote for all rigging that I will forward to you shortly.

I, like you, try to do everything I can myself, which is about 90%. It’s better to make a mistake and learn while help is available. However, the cruising season in the Med is short so I do elect to use known outside people if necessary so we get to enjoy the season.

The rigging is definitely one of them, at this point, for us. So I’m flying Ricky from Malta to Corfu for 2 days to take care of the shrouds and some lighting and wind cane issues.

Enjoy Tahiti. We chartered there in 2008 and had a great time.


Mohammad & Aty
B&B Kokomo
Amel 54 #099

> On Jun 10, 2019, at 10:08 PM, Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
>
> Dear Mohammad and Aty
>
> Would you be willing to let me or us know the cost from ACMO?
> This seems very tempting to do myself?  Then have a rigger double check.  A lot of work, yes but interesting and tempting!
>
> Many thanks.
>
> Porter
>
> S/V IBIS 54-152
> Tahiti.
>
> Excuse the errors.
> Sent from my IPhone
> Www.fouribis.com
>
>> On Jun 6, 2019, at 11:19 PM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks guys, it looks like if I order from ACMO then it is a straight swap. So that is what I will do.
>> I have thought hard about all this and at the end of the day I do not want to have that niggling feeling that my rigging is not up to it on a dark stormy night!
>> Nick
>>> On 7 Jun 2019, at 11:42, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hello Nick;
>>>
>>> We are currently going though the same process and we have just released the order to ACMO.
>>>
>>> If ordered from ACMO, you will receive the entire parts required for the upgrade. This includes a “stronger” pin, as ACMO puts it, the turn buckles and threaded eye. I just again reconfirmed this with ACMO. If you look at your connections at the chain plates, the parts have an ACMO stamp on them.
>>>
>>> Therefore according to ACMO, no other parts will be necessary, it is just a matter of removing the existing shrouds and installing new.
>>>
>>> I will provide an update if we find anything that contradicts this during the install.
>>>
>>> Respectfully;
>>>
>>>
>>> Mohammad & Aty
>>> B&B Kokomo
>>> Amel 54 #099
>>>
>>>> On Jun 7, 2019, at 7:27 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Further to the news that the Amel 54 should have 12mm aft lowers not 10mm and that the intermediates should be beefed up from 8mm to 10mm. I am now seriously working this out.
>>>> On the face of it I can order the replacement wire and fittings from ACMO in France and have it a week later. What worries me is that the pin sizes will increase (I guess)
>>>> This should be no problem at the bottom where there is a massive chainplate that I could drill out to accept the bigger pins but at the top at the spreader bases it will be tricky.
>>>> Has anyone been there and done this project?
>>>> What about sticking to 8mm and 10 mm but upgrading the wire quality to say Dyform? Dyform offers about 30% more strength than standard 1x19?
>>>> Any experts out there?
>>>> Nick
>>>> S/Y Amelia AML54-019
>>>> Anchored in Kefalonia enjoying easy living after 2000 mile voyage from Canary Islands.
>
>
>
>



Re: New Furling Motor

Stefano Biffi
 

Thanks for sharing I had same problem 

Stefano
N’EVEREST Super Maramu 185
Italy 

Il giorno 13 giu 2019, alle ore 04:06, Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> ha scritto:

The replacement Leroy Somer motor, LSMBT82, supplied by Amel to SM owners is slightly smaller in diameter than the original.
I had to space out the black ring to get it to fit.
HOWEVER, after a visit to Amel in La Rochelle last week, I discovered there is a black spacer for the motor cover that fits this new smaller motor.
The part no. is 01994 - Collerette Capot Moteur LSMBT82   Eu40,06

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

New Furling Motor

Alan Leslie
 

The replacement Leroy Somer motor, LSMBT82, supplied by Amel to SM owners is slightly smaller in diameter than the original.
I had to space out the black ring to get it to fit.
HOWEVER, after a visit to Amel in La Rochelle last week, I discovered there is a black spacer for the motor cover that fits this new smaller motor.
The part no. is 01994 - Collerette Capot Moteur LSMBT82   Eu40,06

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Re: Water tank overfill, companionway ladder, galley sink drain hose

karkauai
 

Hi Eric,
Where the companionway door slides down into the slot behind the companionway ladder, the bottom of that compartment rotted and fell out.  The drain hole was clogged and water sat, never enough water to give me a hint that anything was wrong.

Turns out that the ladder is easy to remove, two screws on each side at floor level where the bottom of the ladder fits into mortises, and three screws that hold the aft of the ladder to the box that houses the dropped door.  And the handrail.
The new piece I’m adding at the bottom will be well-treated with epoxy sealer and will slope from both sides to the middle where a drain will be placed that feeds into the hose that drains the galley fridge.

I’ll post pics of the project when I’m done.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM 243
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Jun 12, 2019, at 7:13 PM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi Kent,

What are you referring to when you mention the companionway door support?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of James Cromie via Groups.Io
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2019 2:23 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Water tank overfill, companionway ladder, galley sink drain hose

 

Kent - 

I don’t know about your first qusetion…

 

Re. rotted companion way door support:  Mine was also rotten, and I didn’t know where it was until I took the companion way sliding door out of its track entirely.  I then fished out the rotten wood from the bottom of the companionway box with long graspers.  If you have a friend who does laparoscopic surgery, you can get a disposable pair of long laparoscopic graspers.  I find such an instrument incredibly useful on a regular basis for fishing parts out of deep crevices.  In this case, no need to take apart the steps.   I’m sure you could find some cheap graspers on ebay. 

I flushed out the box to ensure that there was no residual debris to prevent it from draining to the gray water sump.  

 

I fashioned a new support board out of marine plywood, which must be installed with the door installed back in the tracks (but clamped in an elevated position). 

 

Re. kinked reinforced hose:  I agree that the hose will be permanently kinked, and best to simply replace it if it is old in any case.    I ended up replacing the hoses under my galley sink - mostly because I noticed an odor emanating from that vicinity.  I’m glad I took it all apart, because it had probably not been cleaned out since it was installed 17 years ago.  Eliminating the foul black buildup in the galley plumbing resolved the smell issue. 

 

While I was at it, it was a perfect opportunity to install a removable faucet head at the galley sink.  Much easier to wash big pots now.

 

-James

Soteria

SM2K 347

 

 

On May 27, 2019, at 1:49 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

 

My experience is that once that reinforced hose is bent, it is bent.

 

I am watching here for some other reply.

 

Best,

 

Bill Rouse

720 Winnie St.

Galveston, Texas 77550

832-380-4970

 

 

On Mon, May 27, 2019 at 11:21 AM karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

I like the idea of an alarm on the float gauge!

I noticed that the last time I collected desalinated water in the bilge, I had stopped making water when it was reading 900 L on the gauge.  No water showed up until we were heeled over in a 6 ft sea.

When I clean the tanks again, I will watch the level as the gauge gets closer to full.  If it is inaccurate, how would you recalibrate it?  Can it be accessed without tearing the cabinetry and/or tank apart?

Also, the support for the companionway door has rotted and fallen down below the ladder.  Has anyone disassembled or removed the ladder?  Any advice?

Finally, there is quite a kink in the drain hose from the galley sink.  It hasn’t caused a problem, but I want to get it repositioned without the kink..  any advice here?  Is that the original hose?


Thanks,

Kent & Iris
S/V Kristy
karkauai@...
USA cell: 828-234-6819


 
Re: Water tank overfill, companionway ladder, galley sink drain hose

eric freedman
 

Hi Kent,

What are you referring to when you mention the companionway door support?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of James Cromie via Groups.Io
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2019 2:23 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Water tank overfill, companionway ladder, galley sink drain hose

 

Kent - 

I don’t know about your first qusetion…

 

Re. rotted companion way door support:  Mine was also rotten, and I didn’t know where it was until I took the companion way sliding door out of its track entirely.  I then fished out the rotten wood from the bottom of the companionway box with long graspers.  If you have a friend who does laparoscopic surgery, you can get a disposable pair of long laparoscopic graspers.  I find such an instrument incredibly useful on a regular basis for fishing parts out of deep crevices.  In this case, no need to take apart the steps.   I’m sure you could find some cheap graspers on ebay. 

I flushed out the box to ensure that there was no residual debris to prevent it from draining to the gray water sump.  

 

I fashioned a new support board out of marine plywood, which must be installed with the door installed back in the tracks (but clamped in an elevated position). 

 

Re. kinked reinforced hose:  I agree that the hose will be permanently kinked, and best to simply replace it if it is old in any case.    I ended up replacing the hoses under my galley sink - mostly because I noticed an odor emanating from that vicinity.  I’m glad I took it all apart, because it had probably not been cleaned out since it was installed 17 years ago.  Eliminating the foul black buildup in the galley plumbing resolved the smell issue. 

 

While I was at it, it was a perfect opportunity to install a removable faucet head at the galley sink.  Much easier to wash big pots now.

 

-James

Soteria

SM2K 347

 

 

On May 27, 2019, at 1:49 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

 

My experience is that once that reinforced hose is bent, it is bent.

 

I am watching here for some other reply.

 

Best,

 

Bill Rouse

720 Winnie St.

Galveston, Texas 77550

832-380-4970

 

 

On Mon, May 27, 2019 at 11:21 AM karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

I like the idea of an alarm on the float gauge!

I noticed that the last time I collected desalinated water in the bilge, I had stopped making water when it was reading 900 L on the gauge.  No water showed up until we were heeled over in a 6 ft sea.

When I clean the tanks again, I will watch the level as the gauge gets closer to full.  If it is inaccurate, how would you recalibrate it?  Can it be accessed without tearing the cabinetry and/or tank apart?

Also, the support for the companionway door has rotted and fallen down below the ladder.  Has anyone disassembled or removed the ladder?  Any advice?

Finally, there is quite a kink in the drain hose from the galley sink.  It hasn’t caused a problem, but I want to get it repositioned without the kink..  any advice here?  Is that the original hose?


Thanks,

Kent & Iris
S/V Kristy
karkauai@...
USA cell: 828-234-6819


 
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