Date   

Re: Capacitors for Climma A/C

Alexander Ramseyer
 

Thanks James!
--
Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
Am 25.04.19, 15:26, "James Cromie via Groups.Io" <jamescromie@...> schrieb:

Alex - for what it is worth, here is the list of capacitors I received to replace those on my Climma Compact 9 units on my Super Maramu:


James
Soteria
SM2K #347
On Apr 24, 2019, at 7:00 PM, Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:

Hi James,
thanks for the response and YES, it would be helpful to have your invoice.
best regards,
Alex
--
Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
Am 24.04.19, 18:39, "James Cromie via Groups.Io" <jamescromie@...> schrieb:
Alex - I have replaced all of the fan and compressor capacitors for each of my Climma Compact 9 units and the capacitors for my Dessalator motors with capacitors available through Coastal Climate Control. To hey so provide a slight discount if you are a Bill Rouse client.  One or two capacitors are not available from them.  I sourced these from Eurton Electronics. All units work flawlessly, and others have used the same capacitors.  Prices are very reasonable able at Eurton. 

I can provide my invoice if so desired. 

Best,
James
Soteria SM2k #347
Culebra

On Apr 24, 2019 17:22, Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:
Dear Amelians,
I'm trying to source 2mf and 4 mf Capacitors for the onboard Climma A/C unit. I'm currently in Fort Lauderdale.
The technician from a local Climma representative told me it needs to be the original Italfarad- but has no stock.

What's the experience in this group. Does it really have to be Italfarad or will any other (available) capacitor with the correct specs work too?

Best regards,
Alex Ramseyer
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54 #15
--
Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity.



Re: SM Chain Counter Wiring

Mike Ondra
 

If the display is on with 00 and not counting, does passing a magnet (or maybe plain iron) near the sensor several times have any effect? Does the sensor “click” when doing so or other evidence that it is being triggered? Some way to determine if the sensor is indeed doing its job.

Mike

Aletes SM#240

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Thomas Peacock
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2019 7:29 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] SM Chain Counter Wiring

 

I am still trying to get my factory installed (SM #240) chain counter working. The old sensor by the windlass was indeed shorted out; I had to replace with a unit identical except for the fact that the old sensor was normally on, and the new sensor is normally off. I have managed to switch that configuration by inserting a relay in the circuit. 
Despite this, the counter is not yet working. The display unit in the cockpit does light up at "00", but I can't seem to get it to count. In sussing out the wiring, I opened up the junction box above the galley and looked at the connections. 
There are basically four cables: one for power (two wires), one that goes forward to the windlass (three wires), one that goes to the cockpit windlass controls (three wires), and one to the display. (four tiny wires) 
The display has four tiny wires: red, black, green, and blue. The red supplies power, the black is ground, and the green connects with the green wire coming back from the windlass that I believe is the "signal wire", that changes as the windlass rotates. What seems unusual is that the tiny green wire energizes the forward wire, regardless other input, all the time. My sense is that the entire green circuit should be without voltage unless the sensor sends a current. I am concerned that there might be short or other problem that is causing the tiny green wire from the display to carry current. 
I know this is an esoteric question, but if anyone has any feedback I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks as always,
Tom Peacock
SM #240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay


Re: SM Chain Counter Wiring

Teun BAAS
 

 .



T

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

-------- Original message --------
From: "ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@...> via Groups.Io" <ianjudyjenkins@...>
Date: 4/26/19 18:17 (GMT+11:00)
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] SM Chain Counter Wiring

Hi Seckin,

Have you made sure that the little stainless button on the winch is clean and shiny? Sometimes if that's dirty it fails to trigger the sensor as it xgoes round.

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Greece

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Seckin Barlas <seckinbar@...>
Sent: 26 April 2019 07:11
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] SM Chain Counter Wiring
 
Hi Thomas;

I have exactly the same problem with you.

I changed the orenge color sensor near the windlass.
(older was burned out)
Led indicator was ON

Display is always shows 00 in the cocpit.

But the counter is not counting the chain.

I really appreciate if we can solve the problem.
Regards;
Seckin Barlas
SY HAYAT 
SM#76



On 26 Apr 2019, at 02:29, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:

l trying to get my factory installed (SM #240) chain counter working. The old sensor by the windlass was indeed shorted out; I had to replace with a unit identical except for the fact that the old sensor was normally on, and the new sensor is normally off. I have managed to switch that configuration by inserting a relay in the circuit. 
Despite this, the counter is not yet working. The display unit in the cockpit does light up at "00", but I can't seem to get it to count. In sussing out the wiring, I opened up the junction box above the galley and looked at the connections.


Re: SM Chain Counter Wiring

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Seckin,

Have you made sure that the little stainless button on the winch is clean and shiny? Sometimes if that's dirty it fails to trigger the sensor as it goes round.

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Greece


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Seckin Barlas <seckinbar@...>
Sent: 26 April 2019 07:11
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] SM Chain Counter Wiring
 
Hi Thomas;

I have exactly the same problem with you.

I changed the orenge color sensor near the windlass.
(older was burned out)
Led indicator was ON

Display is always shows 00 in the cocpit.

But the counter is not counting the chain.

I really appreciate if we can solve the problem.
Regards;
Seckin Barlas
SY HAYAT 
SM#76



On 26 Apr 2019, at 02:29, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:

l trying to get my factory installed (SM #240) chain counter working. The old sensor by the windlass was indeed shorted out; I had to replace with a unit identical except for the fact that the old sensor was normally on, and the new sensor is normally off. I have managed to switch that configuration by inserting a relay in the circuit. 
Despite this, the counter is not yet working. The display unit in the cockpit does light up at "00", but I can't seem to get it to count. In sussing out the wiring, I opened up the junction box above the galley and looked at the connections.


Re: SM Chain Counter Wiring

Seckin Barlas
 

Hi Thomas;

I have exactly the same problem with you.

I changed the orenge color sensor near the windlass.
(older was burned out)
Led indicator was ON

Display is always shows 00 in the cocpit.

But the counter is not counting the chain.

I really appreciate if we can solve the problem.
Regards;
Seckin Barlas
SY HAYAT 
SM#76



On 26 Apr 2019, at 02:29, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:

l trying to get my factory installed (SM #240) chain counter working. The old sensor by the windlass was indeed shorted out; I had to replace with a unit identical except for the fact that the old sensor was normally on, and the new sensor is normally off. I have managed to switch that configuration by inserting a relay in the circuit. 
Despite this, the counter is not yet working. The display unit in the cockpit does light up at "00", but I can't seem to get it to count. In sussing out the wiring, I opened up the junction box above the galley and looked at the connections.


Re: SM Chain Counter Wiring

Kelly Ran
 

Hi Thomas,

Just brainstorming here...

What model display do you have? Is there a manual with a wiring diagram online?

What kind of sensor are you using (do you have a part number)? Is it magnetic? Optical? Our "aftermarket" sensor is magnetic. You can try passing a magnet in front of the sensor and seeing if the chain count increments. 

How did you convert the normally open sensor to normally closed? What kind of relay did you use (hopefully normally closed?), etc...

Have you tried the new sensor with no inverting relay? The display might be edge triggered and may not care about polarity. 

When we debugged our chain counter, we found that it requires: 1. A sensor on the windlass, and 2. An input (possibly from control panel) to indicate direction of chain travel.
Our sensor does not signal directionality at all.

Where does the blue wire go?

Good luck
Kelly + Ryan
SM233 Iteration
Block Island


On Thu, Apr 25, 2019, 19:29 Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:
I am still trying to get my factory installed (SM #240) chain counter working. The old sensor by the windlass was indeed shorted out; I had to replace with a unit identical except for the fact that the old sensor was normally on, and the new sensor is normally off. I have managed to switch that configuration by inserting a relay in the circuit. 
Despite this, the counter is not yet working. The display unit in the cockpit does light up at "00", but I can't seem to get it to count. In sussing out the wiring, I opened up the junction box above the galley and looked at the connections. 
There are basically four cables: one for power (two wires), one that goes forward to the windlass (three wires), one that goes to the cockpit windlass controls (three wires), and one to the display. (four tiny wires) 
The display has four tiny wires: red, black, green, and blue. The red supplies power, the black is ground, and the green connects with the green wire coming back from the windlass that I believe is the "signal wire", that changes as the windlass rotates. What seems unusual is that the tiny green wire energizes the forward wire, regardless other input, all the time. My sense is that the entire green circuit should be without voltage unless the sensor sends a current. I am concerned that there might be short or other problem that is causing the tiny green wire from the display to carry current. 
I know this is an esoteric question, but if anyone has any feedback I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks as always,
Tom Peacock
SM #240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay


SM Chain Counter Wiring

Thomas Peacock
 

I am still trying to get my factory installed (SM #240) chain counter working. The old sensor by the windlass was indeed shorted out; I had to replace with a unit identical except for the fact that the old sensor was normally on, and the new sensor is normally off. I have managed to switch that configuration by inserting a relay in the circuit. 
Despite this, the counter is not yet working. The display unit in the cockpit does light up at "00", but I can't seem to get it to count. In sussing out the wiring, I opened up the junction box above the galley and looked at the connections. 
There are basically four cables: one for power (two wires), one that goes forward to the windlass (three wires), one that goes to the cockpit windlass controls (three wires), and one to the display. (four tiny wires) 
The display has four tiny wires: red, black, green, and blue. The red supplies power, the black is ground, and the green connects with the green wire coming back from the windlass that I believe is the "signal wire", that changes as the windlass rotates. What seems unusual is that the tiny green wire energizes the forward wire, regardless other input, all the time. My sense is that the entire green circuit should be without voltage unless the sensor sends a current. I am concerned that there might be short or other problem that is causing the tiny green wire from the display to carry current. 
I know this is an esoteric question, but if anyone has any feedback I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks as always,
Tom Peacock
SM #240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay


Re: wind data to Raymarine ST 6000

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hello all who have responded. 
I arrived back on Amelia this afternoon. We launch tomorrow.
I did have a go at linking the AP with some success. Though it is yet to be tested.
This forum has come up trumps. Many of the 9 FFD cables are not connected to anything. Since I already ran the cable from the AP N MEA +ve and -ve input back to the chart table I simply connected the purple from FFD to the + Input and the black to the - input. The black is connected to the processor terminal 16, so I just added the AP - nmea input wire to that terminal. 
Hey presto we have wind data to the AP.
I plan to check the systems tomorrow and be ready to sail on Saturday, I am watching the weather. There is a boisterous option on Saturday when I might be close to laying Madeira in one tack but there is the possibility of a fair wind, all be it a bit light and variable, on Thursday. Trouble is the forecast models I watch conflict. 6 days ahead is stretching it a bit for accurate forecasts.
Gentlemen never sail to windward.......dream on.

Nick back aboard Amelia
Tazacorte, La Palma
Aml 54-019


On 25 Apr 2019, at 19:49, Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:

We do use sail to wind  in close reach situations.  The autopilot will give us an audible alarm when there is a wind shift that it cannot keep up with.  

I am confused about the peecieved risk of STW.  If you sail to a heading and the wind shifts, there will be no alarm and you may still accidently gybe or stall. 

Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM#387



On Thu, Apr 25, 2019, 1:22 PM John Clark <john.biohead@... wrote:
Hi Nick,
    sorry for the tardy response...just started new job and am in process of buying a house...  On my SM with a Hydra2000 system the FFD with NMEA was installed however the NMEA output from the FFD was not used, so the two NMEA leads were folded up and taped to the back of the display.  The FFD Display is the device that generates and transmits the NMEA data.  Someone here said it is the violet colored lead, I think that is correct.  .  

As far as steering to wind (STW) I did exactly what you are trying to do.  I have a newer Raymarine AP (EV-400) with the ACU 400 actuator control and an Es78 chartplotter, I suspect the ST6000 will behave the same.   

. I ran the NMEA output from the FFD direct to the chartplotter on the helm and it feeds the signal to the AP via the Raymarine network. Incidentally my Furuno AIS transponder(thanks you SV Tritin) located at the nav station uses the same wire to send AIS data to the chartplotter.  I have had no issues with the dual usage of the same wire. 

 I have sailed maybe 2000nm in the STW mode. In sail to wind, the system is for the most part great. I use it primarily sailing close to wind.  Other wind angles are more forgiving so I use heading mode otherwise.  As one person said here,  sudden wind shifts can outmaneuver the pilot.  I have had this happen once or twice.   I always sail with the preventer rigged so other than looking like a sailing rube there is no damage to the boat or sails.  Stronger wind is better.   In light wind when the motion of the boat affects the apparent wind angle the AP still works but I suspect it is cycling at least a little bit futilely chasing the moving mast...but it does hold course to the wind. (note it is not a lot of motion of the wheel but I can tell it is having trouble making up its mind.)

Regards,  John

SV Annie  SM #37
Brunswick, Georgia
 


On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 8:54 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Gary,

The plot thickens, all very interesting. At the end of the process, if the view is that the response of the autopilot to wind shifts is too slow to be practical I see no point in the exercise.  I have the wind data I need to see on the B&G  displays, which is enough. 

However

It is interesting this whole exercise. When I fitted a new speedo, I looked at various options but Richard at Tinley electronics advised me to go for the paddle wheel as the “Baud rate” is important for updating the speed data so that true wind is calculated accurately. He said that some other speedo’s would be slower to update the processor……etc etc. I suspect that the wind data to the autopilot needs to be at the correct Baud Rate for it all to work well.

On my last boat I had B&G system Hydra 2000 system and B&G autopilot. I could set it to steer say 35 degrees to the apparent wind and she would helm the boat up wind following every lift or header. Or run square downwind without gybing accidentally.

 I may well try splicing or actually just sharing some terminals for the FFD NMEA output that become processor input terminals on the processor to the Auto input and see what happens.

Thank you for the information. It looks like I will have to play around and see what I get.

Best

Nick
Amelia AML 54-019 La Palma

On 14 Apr 2019, at 13:33, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> wrote:

Hi Nick:  What I have to say applies to my 2001 vintage B & G 2000 FFD (full function display), B & G Hydra 2000 processor, and Raymarine ST7000+ autopilot.  I am going from my Cadd drawings from 18 years ago. NOTE:  There evidently are NMEA FFDs and non-NMEA FFDs 

There is a nine conductor cable that runs from the NMEA FFD to the Hydra processor.  In my case the NMEA wires were NOT connected to anything at the Hydra processor.   Amel had hooked up the supplied Furuno GPS to the Hydra NMEA processor Inputs, but there were no other NMEA inputs connected.  

In that 9 conductor cable from the NMEA FFD the violet (NMEA Output Signal) and black (Ground) wires are the NMEA OUT from the FFD, and the brown (NMEA Input Signal) and blue (NMEA Input Return) are the NMEA input TO the FFD.  My confusion at the time was because there are NMEA terminals on the Hydra processor but they are hooked up to the Amel installed Furuno GPS only.   I spoke to Pochon (Amel's electronics sub-contractor) shortly after the the time we took delivery of the boat and they instructed me to hook things up the way I did, that being,  splicing wires to the violet, black, brown and blue wires and running the NMEA out and NMEA in (from the FFD) to the auto-pilot computer. I do have a note that the NMEA shields should ONLY BE GROUNDED AT THE TRANSMITTING END OF THE CABLE. 


 Based on aviation ARINC 429 data bus (similar to NMEA data bus) NMEA data wires can be paralleled, so I think in retrospect it should have been possible to have those NMEA wires from the FFD go to the pins 21/22 and 26/27 of the Hydra, I am not sure why Amel didn't hook it up that way. 

In my case I ran two, 2-conductor twisted pair shielded aviation grade tefzel wires from the Hydra and ran them to the autopilot computer NMEA input and output lugs.  It has been 18 years since I did this but I vaguely remember that there was some sort of setting in the FFD programming or perhaps it was at the autopilot,  that had to be set (something like a node designation) or something.  

Joel at the time told me, and my experience has born this out, that winds can change too dramatically to allow the auto-pilot to steer to the wind (a squall comes, the boat jibes and damage is done).  So I only display the relative wind at the helm and use the heading mode of the Auto Pilot to actually do the steering. 

I hope this gives you some clues and doesn't further muddy the waters. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335 (2001)
Puerto Rico



Re: wind data to Raymarine ST 6000

John Clark
 

Dan you are right, yes I forgot about the alarm.  At least on the newer AP if the course over ground changes too much in a short period an alarm will sound, also an alarm if there is a gybe and the AP cannot get the wind angle right.  In my experience the former occurs with a weather front or squall, the latter with light wind.  


On Thu, Apr 25, 2019 at 2:50 PM Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:
We do use sail to wind  in close reach situations.  The autopilot will give us an audible alarm when there is a wind shift that it cannot keep up with.  

I am confused about the peecieved risk of STW.  If you sail to a heading and the wind shifts, there will be no alarm and you may still accidently gybe or stall. 

Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM#387



On Thu, Apr 25, 2019, 1:22 PM John Clark <john.biohead@... wrote:
Hi Nick,
    sorry for the tardy response...just started new job and am in process of buying a house...  On my SM with a Hydra2000 system the FFD with NMEA was installed however the NMEA output from the FFD was not used, so the two NMEA leads were folded up and taped to the back of the display.  The FFD Display is the device that generates and transmits the NMEA data.  Someone here said it is the violet colored lead, I think that is correct.  .  

As far as steering to wind (STW) I did exactly what you are trying to do.  I have a newer Raymarine AP (EV-400) with the ACU 400 actuator control and an Es78 chartplotter, I suspect the ST6000 will behave the same.   

. I ran the NMEA output from the FFD direct to the chartplotter on the helm and it feeds the signal to the AP via the Raymarine network. Incidentally my Furuno AIS transponder(thanks you SV Tritin) located at the nav station uses the same wire to send AIS data to the chartplotter.  I have had no issues with the dual usage of the same wire. 

 I have sailed maybe 2000nm in the STW mode. In sail to wind, the system is for the most part great. I use it primarily sailing close to wind.  Other wind angles are more forgiving so I use heading mode otherwise.  As one person said here,  sudden wind shifts can outmaneuver the pilot.  I have had this happen once or twice.   I always sail with the preventer rigged so other than looking like a sailing rube there is no damage to the boat or sails.  Stronger wind is better.   In light wind when the motion of the boat affects the apparent wind angle the AP still works but I suspect it is cycling at least a little bit futilely chasing the moving mast...but it does hold course to the wind. (note it is not a lot of motion of the wheel but I can tell it is having trouble making up its mind.)

Regards,  John

SV Annie  SM #37
Brunswick, Georgia
 


On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 8:54 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Gary,

The plot thickens, all very interesting. At the end of the process, if the view is that the response of the autopilot to wind shifts is too slow to be practical I see no point in the exercise.  I have the wind data I need to see on the B&G  displays, which is enough. 

However

It is interesting this whole exercise. When I fitted a new speedo, I looked at various options but Richard at Tinley electronics advised me to go for the paddle wheel as the “Baud rate” is important for updating the speed data so that true wind is calculated accurately. He said that some other speedo’s would be slower to update the processor……etc etc. I suspect that the wind data to the autopilot needs to be at the correct Baud Rate for it all to work well.

On my last boat I had B&G system Hydra 2000 system and B&G autopilot. I could set it to steer say 35 degrees to the apparent wind and she would helm the boat up wind following every lift or header. Or run square downwind without gybing accidentally.

 I may well try splicing or actually just sharing some terminals for the FFD NMEA output that become processor input terminals on the processor to the Auto input and see what happens.

Thank you for the information. It looks like I will have to play around and see what I get.

Best

Nick
Amelia AML 54-019 La Palma

On 14 Apr 2019, at 13:33, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> wrote:

Hi Nick:  What I have to say applies to my 2001 vintage B & G 2000 FFD (full function display), B & G Hydra 2000 processor, and Raymarine ST7000+ autopilot.  I am going from my Cadd drawings from 18 years ago. NOTE:  There evidently are NMEA FFDs and non-NMEA FFDs 

There is a nine conductor cable that runs from the NMEA FFD to the Hydra processor.  In my case the NMEA wires were NOT connected to anything at the Hydra processor.   Amel had hooked up the supplied Furuno GPS to the Hydra NMEA processor Inputs, but there were no other NMEA inputs connected.  

In that 9 conductor cable from the NMEA FFD the violet (NMEA Output Signal) and black (Ground) wires are the NMEA OUT from the FFD, and the brown (NMEA Input Signal) and blue (NMEA Input Return) are the NMEA input TO the FFD.  My confusion at the time was because there are NMEA terminals on the Hydra processor but they are hooked up to the Amel installed Furuno GPS only.   I spoke to Pochon (Amel's electronics sub-contractor) shortly after the the time we took delivery of the boat and they instructed me to hook things up the way I did, that being,  splicing wires to the violet, black, brown and blue wires and running the NMEA out and NMEA in (from the FFD) to the auto-pilot computer. I do have a note that the NMEA shields should ONLY BE GROUNDED AT THE TRANSMITTING END OF THE CABLE. 


 Based on aviation ARINC 429 data bus (similar to NMEA data bus) NMEA data wires can be paralleled, so I think in retrospect it should have been possible to have those NMEA wires from the FFD go to the pins 21/22 and 26/27 of the Hydra, I am not sure why Amel didn't hook it up that way. 

In my case I ran two, 2-conductor twisted pair shielded aviation grade tefzel wires from the Hydra and ran them to the autopilot computer NMEA input and output lugs.  It has been 18 years since I did this but I vaguely remember that there was some sort of setting in the FFD programming or perhaps it was at the autopilot,  that had to be set (something like a node designation) or something.  

Joel at the time told me, and my experience has born this out, that winds can change too dramatically to allow the auto-pilot to steer to the wind (a squall comes, the boat jibes and damage is done).  So I only display the relative wind at the helm and use the heading mode of the Auto Pilot to actually do the steering. 

I hope this gives you some clues and doesn't further muddy the waters. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335 (2001)
Puerto Rico



Re: Capacitors for Climma A/C

James Cromie
 

Alex - for what it is worth, here is the list of capacitors I received to replace those on my Climma Compact 9 units on my Super Maramu:


James
Soteria
SM2K #347

On Apr 24, 2019, at 7:00 PM, Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:

Hi James,
thanks for the response and YES, it would be helpful to have your invoice.
best regards,
Alex
--
Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
Am 24.04.19, 18:39, "James Cromie via Groups.Io" <jamescromie@...> schrieb:
Alex - I have replaced all of the fan and compressor capacitors for each of my Climma Compact 9 units and the capacitors for my Dessalator motors with capacitors available through Coastal Climate Control. To hey so provide a slight discount if you are a Bill Rouse client.  One or two capacitors are not available from them.  I sourced these from Eurton Electronics. All units work flawlessly, and others have used the same capacitors.  Prices are very reasonable able at Eurton. 

I can provide my invoice if so desired. 

Best,
James
Soteria SM2k #347
Culebra

On Apr 24, 2019 17:22, Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:
Dear Amelians,
I'm trying to source 2mf and 4 mf Capacitors for the onboard Climma A/C unit. I'm currently in Fort Lauderdale.
The technician from a local Climma representative told me it needs to be the original Italfarad- but has no stock.

What's the experience in this group. Does it really have to be Italfarad or will any other (available) capacitor with the correct specs work too?

Best regards,
Alex Ramseyer
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54 #15
--
Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity.



Re: wind data to Raymarine ST 6000

Dan Carlson
 

We do use sail to wind  in close reach situations.  The autopilot will give us an audible alarm when there is a wind shift that it cannot keep up with.  

I am confused about the peecieved risk of STW.  If you sail to a heading and the wind shifts, there will be no alarm and you may still accidently gybe or stall. 

Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM#387



On Thu, Apr 25, 2019, 1:22 PM John Clark <john.biohead@... wrote:
Hi Nick,
    sorry for the tardy response...just started new job and am in process of buying a house...  On my SM with a Hydra2000 system the FFD with NMEA was installed however the NMEA output from the FFD was not used, so the two NMEA leads were folded up and taped to the back of the display.  The FFD Display is the device that generates and transmits the NMEA data.  Someone here said it is the violet colored lead, I think that is correct.  .  

As far as steering to wind (STW) I did exactly what you are trying to do.  I have a newer Raymarine AP (EV-400) with the ACU 400 actuator control and an Es78 chartplotter, I suspect the ST6000 will behave the same.   

. I ran the NMEA output from the FFD direct to the chartplotter on the helm and it feeds the signal to the AP via the Raymarine network. Incidentally my Furuno AIS transponder(thanks you SV Tritin) located at the nav station uses the same wire to send AIS data to the chartplotter.  I have had no issues with the dual usage of the same wire. 

 I have sailed maybe 2000nm in the STW mode. In sail to wind, the system is for the most part great. I use it primarily sailing close to wind.  Other wind angles are more forgiving so I use heading mode otherwise.  As one person said here,  sudden wind shifts can outmaneuver the pilot.  I have had this happen once or twice.   I always sail with the preventer rigged so other than looking like a sailing rube there is no damage to the boat or sails.  Stronger wind is better.   In light wind when the motion of the boat affects the apparent wind angle the AP still works but I suspect it is cycling at least a little bit futilely chasing the moving mast...but it does hold course to the wind. (note it is not a lot of motion of the wheel but I can tell it is having trouble making up its mind.)

Regards,  John

SV Annie  SM #37
Brunswick, Georgia
 


On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 8:54 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Gary,

The plot thickens, all very interesting. At the end of the process, if the view is that the response of the autopilot to wind shifts is too slow to be practical I see no point in the exercise.  I have the wind data I need to see on the B&G  displays, which is enough. 

However

It is interesting this whole exercise. When I fitted a new speedo, I looked at various options but Richard at Tinley electronics advised me to go for the paddle wheel as the “Baud rate” is important for updating the speed data so that true wind is calculated accurately. He said that some other speedo’s would be slower to update the processor……etc etc. I suspect that the wind data to the autopilot needs to be at the correct Baud Rate for it all to work well.

On my last boat I had B&G system Hydra 2000 system and B&G autopilot. I could set it to steer say 35 degrees to the apparent wind and she would helm the boat up wind following every lift or header. Or run square downwind without gybing accidentally.

 I may well try splicing or actually just sharing some terminals for the FFD NMEA output that become processor input terminals on the processor to the Auto input and see what happens.

Thank you for the information. It looks like I will have to play around and see what I get.

Best

Nick
Amelia AML 54-019 La Palma

On 14 Apr 2019, at 13:33, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> wrote:

Hi Nick:  What I have to say applies to my 2001 vintage B & G 2000 FFD (full function display), B & G Hydra 2000 processor, and Raymarine ST7000+ autopilot.  I am going from my Cadd drawings from 18 years ago. NOTE:  There evidently are NMEA FFDs and non-NMEA FFDs 

There is a nine conductor cable that runs from the NMEA FFD to the Hydra processor.  In my case the NMEA wires were NOT connected to anything at the Hydra processor.   Amel had hooked up the supplied Furuno GPS to the Hydra NMEA processor Inputs, but there were no other NMEA inputs connected.  

In that 9 conductor cable from the NMEA FFD the violet (NMEA Output Signal) and black (Ground) wires are the NMEA OUT from the FFD, and the brown (NMEA Input Signal) and blue (NMEA Input Return) are the NMEA input TO the FFD.  My confusion at the time was because there are NMEA terminals on the Hydra processor but they are hooked up to the Amel installed Furuno GPS only.   I spoke to Pochon (Amel's electronics sub-contractor) shortly after the the time we took delivery of the boat and they instructed me to hook things up the way I did, that being,  splicing wires to the violet, black, brown and blue wires and running the NMEA out and NMEA in (from the FFD) to the auto-pilot computer. I do have a note that the NMEA shields should ONLY BE GROUNDED AT THE TRANSMITTING END OF THE CABLE. 


 Based on aviation ARINC 429 data bus (similar to NMEA data bus) NMEA data wires can be paralleled, so I think in retrospect it should have been possible to have those NMEA wires from the FFD go to the pins 21/22 and 26/27 of the Hydra, I am not sure why Amel didn't hook it up that way. 

In my case I ran two, 2-conductor twisted pair shielded aviation grade tefzel wires from the Hydra and ran them to the autopilot computer NMEA input and output lugs.  It has been 18 years since I did this but I vaguely remember that there was some sort of setting in the FFD programming or perhaps it was at the autopilot,  that had to be set (something like a node designation) or something.  

Joel at the time told me, and my experience has born this out, that winds can change too dramatically to allow the auto-pilot to steer to the wind (a squall comes, the boat jibes and damage is done).  So I only display the relative wind at the helm and use the heading mode of the Auto Pilot to actually do the steering. 

I hope this gives you some clues and doesn't further muddy the waters. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335 (2001)
Puerto Rico



Re: wind data to Raymarine ST 6000

 

image.png
Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Thu, Apr 25, 2019 at 2:42 PM CW Bill Rouse via Groups.Io <brouse=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
NMEA input for wind is on the back of the ST6000 head control unit. Check your manual for the setup procedures.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Thu, Apr 25, 2019 at 2:22 PM John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:
Hi Nick,
    sorry for the tardy response...just started new job and am in process of buying a house...  On my SM with a Hydra2000 system the FFD with NMEA was installed however the NMEA output from the FFD was not used, so the two NMEA leads were folded up and taped to the back of the display.  The FFD Display is the device that generates and transmits the NMEA data.  Someone here said it is the violet colored lead, I think that is correct.  .  

As far as steering to wind (STW) I did exactly what you are trying to do.  I have a newer Raymarine AP (EV-400) with the ACU 400 actuator control and an Es78 chartplotter, I suspect the ST6000 will behave the same.   

. I ran the NMEA output from the FFD direct to the chartplotter on the helm and it feeds the signal to the AP via the Raymarine network. Incidentally my Furuno AIS transponder(thanks you SV Tritin) located at the nav station uses the same wire to send AIS data to the chartplotter.  I have had no issues with the dual usage of the same wire. 

 I have sailed maybe 2000nm in the STW mode. In sail to wind, the system is for the most part great. I use it primarily sailing close to wind.  Other wind angles are more forgiving so I use heading mode otherwise.  As one person said here,  sudden wind shifts can outmaneuver the pilot.  I have had this happen once or twice.   I always sail with the preventer rigged so other than looking like a sailing rube there is no damage to the boat or sails.  Stronger wind is better.   In light wind when the motion of the boat affects the apparent wind angle the AP still works but I suspect it is cycling at least a little bit futilely chasing the moving mast...but it does hold course to the wind. (note it is not a lot of motion of the wheel but I can tell it is having trouble making up its mind.)

Regards,  John

SV Annie  SM #37
Brunswick, Georgia
 


On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 8:54 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Gary,

The plot thickens, all very interesting. At the end of the process, if the view is that the response of the autopilot to wind shifts is too slow to be practical I see no point in the exercise.  I have the wind data I need to see on the B&G  displays, which is enough. 

However

It is interesting this whole exercise. When I fitted a new speedo, I looked at various options but Richard at Tinley electronics advised me to go for the paddle wheel as the “Baud rate” is important for updating the speed data so that true wind is calculated accurately. He said that some other speedo’s would be slower to update the processor……etc etc. I suspect that the wind data to the autopilot needs to be at the correct Baud Rate for it all to work well.

On my last boat I had B&G system Hydra 2000 system and B&G autopilot. I could set it to steer say 35 degrees to the apparent wind and she would helm the boat up wind following every lift or header. Or run square downwind without gybing accidentally.

 I may well try splicing or actually just sharing some terminals for the FFD NMEA output that become processor input terminals on the processor to the Auto input and see what happens.

Thank you for the information. It looks like I will have to play around and see what I get.

Best

Nick
Amelia AML 54-019 La Palma

On 14 Apr 2019, at 13:33, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> wrote:

Hi Nick:  What I have to say applies to my 2001 vintage B & G 2000 FFD (full function display), B & G Hydra 2000 processor, and Raymarine ST7000+ autopilot.  I am going from my Cadd drawings from 18 years ago. NOTE:  There evidently are NMEA FFDs and non-NMEA FFDs 

There is a nine conductor cable that runs from the NMEA FFD to the Hydra processor.  In my case the NMEA wires were NOT connected to anything at the Hydra processor.   Amel had hooked up the supplied Furuno GPS to the Hydra NMEA processor Inputs, but there were no other NMEA inputs connected.  

In that 9 conductor cable from the NMEA FFD the violet (NMEA Output Signal) and black (Ground) wires are the NMEA OUT from the FFD, and the brown (NMEA Input Signal) and blue (NMEA Input Return) are the NMEA input TO the FFD.  My confusion at the time was because there are NMEA terminals on the Hydra processor but they are hooked up to the Amel installed Furuno GPS only.   I spoke to Pochon (Amel's electronics sub-contractor) shortly after the the time we took delivery of the boat and they instructed me to hook things up the way I did, that being,  splicing wires to the violet, black, brown and blue wires and running the NMEA out and NMEA in (from the FFD) to the auto-pilot computer. I do have a note that the NMEA shields should ONLY BE GROUNDED AT THE TRANSMITTING END OF THE CABLE. 


 Based on aviation ARINC 429 data bus (similar to NMEA data bus) NMEA data wires can be paralleled, so I think in retrospect it should have been possible to have those NMEA wires from the FFD go to the pins 21/22 and 26/27 of the Hydra, I am not sure why Amel didn't hook it up that way. 

In my case I ran two, 2-conductor twisted pair shielded aviation grade tefzel wires from the Hydra and ran them to the autopilot computer NMEA input and output lugs.  It has been 18 years since I did this but I vaguely remember that there was some sort of setting in the FFD programming or perhaps it was at the autopilot,  that had to be set (something like a node designation) or something.  

Joel at the time told me, and my experience has born this out, that winds can change too dramatically to allow the auto-pilot to steer to the wind (a squall comes, the boat jibes and damage is done).  So I only display the relative wind at the helm and use the heading mode of the Auto Pilot to actually do the steering. 

I hope this gives you some clues and doesn't further muddy the waters. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335 (2001)
Puerto Rico



Re: wind data to Raymarine ST 6000

 

NMEA input for wind is on the back of the ST6000 head control unit. Check your manual for the setup procedures.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Thu, Apr 25, 2019 at 2:22 PM John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:
Hi Nick,
    sorry for the tardy response...just started new job and am in process of buying a house...  On my SM with a Hydra2000 system the FFD with NMEA was installed however the NMEA output from the FFD was not used, so the two NMEA leads were folded up and taped to the back of the display.  The FFD Display is the device that generates and transmits the NMEA data.  Someone here said it is the violet colored lead, I think that is correct.  .  

As far as steering to wind (STW) I did exactly what you are trying to do.  I have a newer Raymarine AP (EV-400) with the ACU 400 actuator control and an Es78 chartplotter, I suspect the ST6000 will behave the same.   

. I ran the NMEA output from the FFD direct to the chartplotter on the helm and it feeds the signal to the AP via the Raymarine network. Incidentally my Furuno AIS transponder(thanks you SV Tritin) located at the nav station uses the same wire to send AIS data to the chartplotter.  I have had no issues with the dual usage of the same wire. 

 I have sailed maybe 2000nm in the STW mode. In sail to wind, the system is for the most part great. I use it primarily sailing close to wind.  Other wind angles are more forgiving so I use heading mode otherwise.  As one person said here,  sudden wind shifts can outmaneuver the pilot.  I have had this happen once or twice.   I always sail with the preventer rigged so other than looking like a sailing rube there is no damage to the boat or sails.  Stronger wind is better.   In light wind when the motion of the boat affects the apparent wind angle the AP still works but I suspect it is cycling at least a little bit futilely chasing the moving mast...but it does hold course to the wind. (note it is not a lot of motion of the wheel but I can tell it is having trouble making up its mind.)

Regards,  John

SV Annie  SM #37
Brunswick, Georgia
 


On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 8:54 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Gary,

The plot thickens, all very interesting. At the end of the process, if the view is that the response of the autopilot to wind shifts is too slow to be practical I see no point in the exercise.  I have the wind data I need to see on the B&G  displays, which is enough. 

However

It is interesting this whole exercise. When I fitted a new speedo, I looked at various options but Richard at Tinley electronics advised me to go for the paddle wheel as the “Baud rate” is important for updating the speed data so that true wind is calculated accurately. He said that some other speedo’s would be slower to update the processor……etc etc. I suspect that the wind data to the autopilot needs to be at the correct Baud Rate for it all to work well.

On my last boat I had B&G system Hydra 2000 system and B&G autopilot. I could set it to steer say 35 degrees to the apparent wind and she would helm the boat up wind following every lift or header. Or run square downwind without gybing accidentally.

 I may well try splicing or actually just sharing some terminals for the FFD NMEA output that become processor input terminals on the processor to the Auto input and see what happens.

Thank you for the information. It looks like I will have to play around and see what I get.

Best

Nick
Amelia AML 54-019 La Palma

On 14 Apr 2019, at 13:33, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> wrote:

Hi Nick:  What I have to say applies to my 2001 vintage B & G 2000 FFD (full function display), B & G Hydra 2000 processor, and Raymarine ST7000+ autopilot.  I am going from my Cadd drawings from 18 years ago. NOTE:  There evidently are NMEA FFDs and non-NMEA FFDs 

There is a nine conductor cable that runs from the NMEA FFD to the Hydra processor.  In my case the NMEA wires were NOT connected to anything at the Hydra processor.   Amel had hooked up the supplied Furuno GPS to the Hydra NMEA processor Inputs, but there were no other NMEA inputs connected.  

In that 9 conductor cable from the NMEA FFD the violet (NMEA Output Signal) and black (Ground) wires are the NMEA OUT from the FFD, and the brown (NMEA Input Signal) and blue (NMEA Input Return) are the NMEA input TO the FFD.  My confusion at the time was because there are NMEA terminals on the Hydra processor but they are hooked up to the Amel installed Furuno GPS only.   I spoke to Pochon (Amel's electronics sub-contractor) shortly after the the time we took delivery of the boat and they instructed me to hook things up the way I did, that being,  splicing wires to the violet, black, brown and blue wires and running the NMEA out and NMEA in (from the FFD) to the auto-pilot computer. I do have a note that the NMEA shields should ONLY BE GROUNDED AT THE TRANSMITTING END OF THE CABLE. 


 Based on aviation ARINC 429 data bus (similar to NMEA data bus) NMEA data wires can be paralleled, so I think in retrospect it should have been possible to have those NMEA wires from the FFD go to the pins 21/22 and 26/27 of the Hydra, I am not sure why Amel didn't hook it up that way. 

In my case I ran two, 2-conductor twisted pair shielded aviation grade tefzel wires from the Hydra and ran them to the autopilot computer NMEA input and output lugs.  It has been 18 years since I did this but I vaguely remember that there was some sort of setting in the FFD programming or perhaps it was at the autopilot,  that had to be set (something like a node designation) or something.  

Joel at the time told me, and my experience has born this out, that winds can change too dramatically to allow the auto-pilot to steer to the wind (a squall comes, the boat jibes and damage is done).  So I only display the relative wind at the helm and use the heading mode of the Auto Pilot to actually do the steering. 

I hope this gives you some clues and doesn't further muddy the waters. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335 (2001)
Puerto Rico



Re: Capacitors for Climma A/C

Alexander Ramseyer
 

Thank you all for the helpful answers.
fair winds, Alex
--
Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
Am 24.04.19, 22:14, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> schrieb:

Alex,

Coastal Climate Control has your capacitors if you have original Climma AC. 

Be careful because Amel used different evolutions of the Climma Compact in the 54. Based on your hull number I am 99% sure that yours is the same as the last SMs. Take a photo of the control unit or the schematic inside the control box and email it to Coastal Climate Control <info@...> with a request for quote for replacement capacitors. BTW, Coastal CC supplies Climma technicians.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 6:00 PM Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:
Hi James,
thanks for the response and YES, it would be helpful to have your invoice.
best regards,
Alex
--
Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
Am 24.04.19, 18:39, "James Cromie via Groups.Io" <jamescromie=yahoo.com@groups.io> schrieb:
Alex - I have replaced all of the fan and compressor capacitors for each of my Climma Compact 9 units and the capacitors for my Dessalator motors with capacitors available through Coastal Climate Control. To hey so provide a slight discount if you are a Bill Rouse client.  One or two capacitors are not available from them.  I sourced these from Eurton Electronics. All units work flawlessly, and others have used the same capacitors.  Prices are very reasonable able at Eurton. 

I can provide my invoice if so desired. 

Best,
James
Soteria SM2k #347
Culebra

On Apr 24, 2019 17:22, Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:
Dear Amelians,
I'm trying to source 2mf and 4 mf Capacitors for the onboard Climma A/C unit. I'm currently in Fort Lauderdale.
The technician from a local Climma representative told me it needs to be the original Italfarad- but has no stock.

What's the experience in this group. Does it really have to be Italfarad or will any other (available) capacitor with the correct specs work too?

Best regards,
Alex Ramseyer
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54 #15
--
Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity.


Re: wind data to Raymarine ST 6000

John Clark
 

Hi Nick,
    sorry for the tardy response...just started new job and am in process of buying a house...  On my SM with a Hydra2000 system the FFD with NMEA was installed however the NMEA output from the FFD was not used, so the two NMEA leads were folded up and taped to the back of the display.  The FFD Display is the device that generates and transmits the NMEA data.  Someone here said it is the violet colored lead, I think that is correct.  .  

As far as steering to wind (STW) I did exactly what you are trying to do.  I have a newer Raymarine AP (EV-400) with the ACU 400 actuator control and an Es78 chartplotter, I suspect the ST6000 will behave the same.   

. I ran the NMEA output from the FFD direct to the chartplotter on the helm and it feeds the signal to the AP via the Raymarine network. Incidentally my Furuno AIS transponder(thanks you SV Tritin) located at the nav station uses the same wire to send AIS data to the chartplotter.  I have had no issues with the dual usage of the same wire. 

 I have sailed maybe 2000nm in the STW mode. In sail to wind, the system is for the most part great. I use it primarily sailing close to wind.  Other wind angles are more forgiving so I use heading mode otherwise.  As one person said here,  sudden wind shifts can outmaneuver the pilot.  I have had this happen once or twice.   I always sail with the preventer rigged so other than looking like a sailing rube there is no damage to the boat or sails.  Stronger wind is better.   In light wind when the motion of the boat affects the apparent wind angle the AP still works but I suspect it is cycling at least a little bit futilely chasing the moving mast...but it does hold course to the wind. (note it is not a lot of motion of the wheel but I can tell it is having trouble making up its mind.)

Regards,  John

SV Annie  SM #37
Brunswick, Georgia
 


On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 8:54 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Gary,

The plot thickens, all very interesting. At the end of the process, if the view is that the response of the autopilot to wind shifts is too slow to be practical I see no point in the exercise.  I have the wind data I need to see on the B&G  displays, which is enough. 

However

It is interesting this whole exercise. When I fitted a new speedo, I looked at various options but Richard at Tinley electronics advised me to go for the paddle wheel as the “Baud rate” is important for updating the speed data so that true wind is calculated accurately. He said that some other speedo’s would be slower to update the processor……etc etc. I suspect that the wind data to the autopilot needs to be at the correct Baud Rate for it all to work well.

On my last boat I had B&G system Hydra 2000 system and B&G autopilot. I could set it to steer say 35 degrees to the apparent wind and she would helm the boat up wind following every lift or header. Or run square downwind without gybing accidentally.

 I may well try splicing or actually just sharing some terminals for the FFD NMEA output that become processor input terminals on the processor to the Auto input and see what happens.

Thank you for the information. It looks like I will have to play around and see what I get.

Best

Nick
Amelia AML 54-019 La Palma

On 14 Apr 2019, at 13:33, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> wrote:

Hi Nick:  What I have to say applies to my 2001 vintage B & G 2000 FFD (full function display), B & G Hydra 2000 processor, and Raymarine ST7000+ autopilot.  I am going from my Cadd drawings from 18 years ago. NOTE:  There evidently are NMEA FFDs and non-NMEA FFDs 

There is a nine conductor cable that runs from the NMEA FFD to the Hydra processor.  In my case the NMEA wires were NOT connected to anything at the Hydra processor.   Amel had hooked up the supplied Furuno GPS to the Hydra NMEA processor Inputs, but there were no other NMEA inputs connected.  

In that 9 conductor cable from the NMEA FFD the violet (NMEA Output Signal) and black (Ground) wires are the NMEA OUT from the FFD, and the brown (NMEA Input Signal) and blue (NMEA Input Return) are the NMEA input TO the FFD.  My confusion at the time was because there are NMEA terminals on the Hydra processor but they are hooked up to the Amel installed Furuno GPS only.   I spoke to Pochon (Amel's electronics sub-contractor) shortly after the the time we took delivery of the boat and they instructed me to hook things up the way I did, that being,  splicing wires to the violet, black, brown and blue wires and running the NMEA out and NMEA in (from the FFD) to the auto-pilot computer. I do have a note that the NMEA shields should ONLY BE GROUNDED AT THE TRANSMITTING END OF THE CABLE. 


 Based on aviation ARINC 429 data bus (similar to NMEA data bus) NMEA data wires can be paralleled, so I think in retrospect it should have been possible to have those NMEA wires from the FFD go to the pins 21/22 and 26/27 of the Hydra, I am not sure why Amel didn't hook it up that way. 

In my case I ran two, 2-conductor twisted pair shielded aviation grade tefzel wires from the Hydra and ran them to the autopilot computer NMEA input and output lugs.  It has been 18 years since I did this but I vaguely remember that there was some sort of setting in the FFD programming or perhaps it was at the autopilot,  that had to be set (something like a node designation) or something.  

Joel at the time told me, and my experience has born this out, that winds can change too dramatically to allow the auto-pilot to steer to the wind (a squall comes, the boat jibes and damage is done).  So I only display the relative wind at the helm and use the heading mode of the Auto Pilot to actually do the steering. 

I hope this gives you some clues and doesn't further muddy the waters. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335 (2001)
Puerto Rico



Re: Capacitors for Climma A/C

Michael & Robyn
 

Dear Alex Ramseyer,

any motor run capacitor (450V AC) with the proper uF value will do;
We replaced many on RIPPLE sourced from https://www.conrad.de/
in Germany.

Best regards
Michael
SY RIPPLE
SM 53 #417


Re: Capacitors for Climma A/C

 

Alex,

Coastal Climate Control has your capacitors if you have original Climma AC. 

Be careful because Amel used different evolutions of the Climma Compact in the 54. Based on your hull number I am 99% sure that yours is the same as the last SMs. Take a photo of the control unit or the schematic inside the control box and email it to Coastal Climate Control <info@...> with a request for quote for replacement capacitors. BTW, Coastal CC supplies Climma technicians.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 6:00 PM Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:
Hi James,
thanks for the response and YES, it would be helpful to have your invoice.
best regards,
Alex
--
Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
Am 24.04.19, 18:39, "James Cromie via Groups.Io" <jamescromie=yahoo.com@groups.io> schrieb:
Alex - I have replaced all of the fan and compressor capacitors for each of my Climma Compact 9 units and the capacitors for my Dessalator motors with capacitors available through Coastal Climate Control. To hey so provide a slight discount if you are a Bill Rouse client.  One or two capacitors are not available from them.  I sourced these from Eurton Electronics. All units work flawlessly, and others have used the same capacitors.  Prices are very reasonable able at Eurton. 

I can provide my invoice if so desired. 

Best,
James
Soteria SM2k #347
Culebra

On Apr 24, 2019 17:22, Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:
Dear Amelians,
I'm trying to source 2mf and 4 mf Capacitors for the onboard Climma A/C unit. I'm currently in Fort Lauderdale.
The technician from a local Climma representative told me it needs to be the original Italfarad- but has no stock.

What's the experience in this group. Does it really have to be Italfarad or will any other (available) capacitor with the correct specs work too?

Best regards,
Alex Ramseyer
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54 #15
--
Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity.


Re: Capacitors for Climma A/C

Alexander Ramseyer
 

Hi James,
thanks for the response and YES, it would be helpful to have your invoice.
best regards,
Alex
--
Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
Am 24.04.19, 18:39, "James Cromie via Groups.Io" <jamescromie@...> schrieb:

Alex - I have replaced all of the fan and compressor capacitors for each of my Climma Compact 9 units and the capacitors for my Dessalator motors with capacitors available through Coastal Climate Control. To hey so provide a slight discount if you are a Bill Rouse client.  One or two capacitors are not available from them.  I sourced these from Eurton Electronics. All units work flawlessly, and others have used the same capacitors.  Prices are very reasonable able at Eurton. 

I can provide my invoice if so desired. 

Best,
James
Soteria SM2k #347
Culebra

On Apr 24, 2019 17:22, Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:
Dear Amelians,
I'm trying to source 2mf and 4 mf Capacitors for the onboard Climma A/C unit. I'm currently in Fort Lauderdale.
The technician from a local Climma representative told me it needs to be the original Italfarad- but has no stock.

What's the experience in this group. Does it really have to be Italfarad or will any other (available) capacitor with the correct specs work too?

Best regards,
Alex Ramseyer
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54 #15
--
Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity.


Re: Capacitors for Climma A/C

James Cromie
 

Sorry - I just saw that you have an Amel 54.  Not sure if this holds true for your model, so I defer to those who own 54's!

On Apr 24, 2019 17:22, Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:
Dear Amelians,
I'm trying to source 2mf and 4 mf Capacitors for the onboard Climma A/C unit. I'm currently in Fort Lauderdale.
The technician from a local Climma representative told me it needs to be the original Italfarad- but has no stock.

What's the experience in this group. Does it really have to be Italfarad or will any other (available) capacitor with the correct specs work too?

Best regards,
Alex Ramseyer
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54 #15
--
Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity.


Re: Capacitors for Climma A/C

James Cromie
 

Alex - I have replaced all of the fan and compressor capacitors for each of my Climma Compact 9 units and the capacitors for my Dessalator motors with capacitors available through Coastal Climate Control. To hey so provide a slight discount if you are a Bill Rouse client.  One or two capacitors are not available from them.  I sourced these from Eurton Electronics. All units work flawlessly, and others have used the same capacitors.  Prices are very reasonable able at Eurton. 

I can provide my invoice if so desired. 

Best,
James
Soteria SM2k #347
Culebra

On Apr 24, 2019 17:22, Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:
Dear Amelians,
I'm trying to source 2mf and 4 mf Capacitors for the onboard Climma A/C unit. I'm currently in Fort Lauderdale.
The technician from a local Climma representative told me it needs to be the original Italfarad- but has no stock.

What's the experience in this group. Does it really have to be Italfarad or will any other (available) capacitor with the correct specs work too?

Best regards,
Alex Ramseyer
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54 #15
--
Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity.