Date   

Re: Spare fresh water pump

seagasm
 

As I understand, the accumulator tank maintains a consistent pressure of water, I would not be without one however, the small accumulator tank on the Reyer pump I discarded. This was an error on my part as I found it prevents chatter in the line and stabilises or softens the cut in and out of the switch.

Best Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM #171
 

On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 at 17:48, Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:
Hi Nick,

I have a Marco 12E as water pump.  It works well without an accumulator tank.

Good luck

Jean-Pierre, Eleuthera, SM007


On 23 Apr 2019, at 19:44, seagasm <seagasm@...> wrote:

Nick, I have replaced the Reya pump system twice, I was completely disappointed with this unit and replaced it again with a Johnson WPS 3.5 Water Pressure System Pump (google specs). This Unit cost $210.00 AUD and worked perfectly for 9 years (we live on our boat). I have just replaced this pump with a new one of the same due to a failure yet to be found. However, parts are available and I will retain the old refurbished pump as a spare. 

There are two wires, black and red, that run externally from the pressure switch to the motor, you can cut the red wire (positive+) and jump that to the green wire that goes to the green indicator light in the galley to indicate the pump is operating. Easy pezzy.

Best Regards
Barry & Robyn, Tradewinds III SM #171


On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 at 16:29, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

I have been following the various threads regarding replacing the freshwater pump.
On Amelia the pump with pressure vessel works fine but I have no spare and it sounds like it is only a question of time.
In the screen shot below are two pumps from Marco that look good. My questions are-
Is the electronic 14E really worth the extra cost?
The 12A could be used with the existing pressure vessel, whilst the 14E could be used without, right?

How reliable is the electronic controller for the 14E?

Nick s/y Amelia AML54-019



--
Kind Regards
Barry Ferguson

Email: seagasm@...
Mobile/cell: +61 477 652 046
PO Box 1339
Hervey Bay Qld 4655
Australia

--
Kind Regards
Barry Ferguson

Email: seagasm@...
Mobile/cell: +61 477 652 046
PO Box 1339
Hervey Bay Qld 4655
Australia


Re: Spare fresh water pump

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hi Nick,

I have a Marco 12E as water pump.  It works well without an accumulator tank.

Good luck

Jean-Pierre, Eleuthera, SM007


On 23 Apr 2019, at 19:44, seagasm <seagasm@...> wrote:

Nick, I have replaced the Reya pump system twice, I was completely disappointed with this unit and replaced it again with a Johnson WPS 3.5 Water Pressure System Pump (google specs). This Unit cost $210.00 AUD and worked perfectly for 9 years (we live on our boat). I have just replaced this pump with a new one of the same due to a failure yet to be found. However, parts are available and I will retain the old refurbished pump as a spare. 

There are two wires, black and red, that run externally from the pressure switch to the motor, you can cut the red wire (positive+) and jump that to the green wire that goes to the green indicator light in the galley to indicate the pump is operating. Easy pezzy.

Best Regards
Barry & Robyn, Tradewinds III SM #171


On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 at 16:29, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

I have been following the various threads regarding replacing the freshwater pump.
On Amelia the pump with pressure vessel works fine but I have no spare and it sounds like it is only a question of time.
In the screen shot below are two pumps from Marco that look good. My questions are-
Is the electronic 14E really worth the extra cost?
The 12A could be used with the existing pressure vessel, whilst the 14E could be used without, right?

How reliable is the electronic controller for the 14E?

Nick s/y Amelia AML54-019



--
Kind Regards
Barry Ferguson

Email: seagasm@...
Mobile/cell: +61 477 652 046
PO Box 1339
Hervey Bay Qld 4655
Australia


Re: Spare fresh water pump

seagasm
 

Nick, I have replaced the Reya pump system twice, I was completely disappointed with this unit and replaced it again with a Johnson WPS 3.5 Water Pressure System Pump (google specs). This Unit cost $210.00 AUD and worked perfectly for 9 years (we live on our boat). I have just replaced this pump with a new one of the same due to a failure yet to be found. However, parts are available and I will retain the old refurbished pump as a spare. 

There are two wires, black and red, that run externally from the pressure switch to the motor, you can cut the red wire (positive+) and jump that to the green wire that goes to the green indicator light in the galley to indicate the pump is operating. Easy pezzy.

Best Regards
Barry & Robyn, Tradewinds III SM #171


On Tue, 23 Apr 2019 at 16:29, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

I have been following the various threads regarding replacing the freshwater pump.
On Amelia the pump with pressure vessel works fine but I have no spare and it sounds like it is only a question of time.
In the screen shot below are two pumps from Marco that look good. My questions are-
Is the electronic 14E really worth the extra cost?
The 12A could be used with the existing pressure vessel, whilst the 14E could be used without, right?

How reliable is the electronic controller for the 14E?

Nick s/y Amelia AML54-019



--
Kind Regards
Barry Ferguson

Email: seagasm@...
Mobile/cell: +61 477 652 046
PO Box 1339
Hervey Bay Qld 4655
Australia


Re: Spare fresh water pump

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Nick,

We have a 14E Marco pump on Elyse for 2 years now without issues. I never considered keeping the old accumulator, it's so big !

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Spare fresh water pump

ngtnewington Newington
 

I have been following the various threads regarding replacing the freshwater pump.
On Amelia the pump with pressure vessel works fine but I have no spare and it sounds like it is only a question of time.
In the screen shot below are two pumps from Marco that look good. My questions are-
Is the electronic 14E really worth the extra cost?
The 12A could be used with the existing pressure vessel, whilst the 14E could be used without, right?

How reliable is the electronic controller for the 14E?

Nick s/y Amelia AML54-019


D3-110i-c

Denis Elborn
 

Hi everyone,
I'm planning to replace my timing  belt and would like to know the dimensions of the counter hold tool so that I can make one before leaving Australia for Greece, also the size of the crankshaft nut would be useful.

Denis and Julie
Aventura A54-113


Re: New Engine alignfment in a SM

eric freedman
 

Sorry Graham,

I sent you photos for the 4jh3hte Yanmar.

The way that I removed the coupling might be helpful.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Graham Boyd via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2019 1:18 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] New Engine alignfment in a SM

 


Sula is SM 140. These are the mounts removed from under the old volvo. I presume originals. They are by Schwartz and googling that and the numbers brings up very little. I am awaiting a reply from Amel after Easter.

The Vetus K50 is noted. Could be the answer but there might be a weight issue. New engine including gear box approx 300 kg plus weight of the top of Cdrive at 50 kg.


Re: New Engine alignfment in a SM

Graham Boyd
 


Sula is SM 140. These are the mounts removed from under the old volvo. I presume originals. They are by Schwartz and googling that and the numbers brings up very little. I am awaiting a reply from Amel after Easter.

The Vetus K50 is noted. Could be the answer but there might be a weight issue. New engine including gear box approx 300 kg plus weight of the top of Cdrive at 50 kg.


Re: New Engine alignment in a SM

Graham Boyd
 

Hi Bill thanks again.

We are going to machine a false coupling plate and follow the rest of your instructions and Olivier's as well. Could you forward any drawings you may have that would help. my email is crwggb@...

Graham


Re: Marco Pump stoppage

Mark Erdos
 

Duane,

 

Glad you have water pumping again.

 

Keep in mind that PR is a part of the USPS and you can Express Mail or Priority Mail (2-3 days) to the island from most USA online chandleries at regular postal rates. Also, the West Marine on PR adds a surcharge to their already ridiculously high prices. Better to buy from the mainland and pay for shipping.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - San Blas Islands, Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2019 12:56 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Marco Pump stoppage

 

Follow up:

After checking for a blockage, lack of voltage, or lack of water, the manual says the only other thing to check is the motor brushes. 

I took the back cover off and one motor brushholder and brush wire were badly corroded.  The wire fell apart as I touched it.  I replaced the wire with some copper stranded wire that I jammed into a hole I drilled in the carbon brush and then glued in place (not the best electrical connection, but the carbon block wouldn't accept solder).  I could not unsolder the wire from the circuit board (not enough heat) so I filed it flat and drilled it out hoping not to hit the conductor on the circuit board. Then I soldered the new wire to the circuit board.  When I reinstalled, it still didn't work, but gave a different error light.  We neglected to turn off the breaker and seeing it the next morning I turned it off, then thought “what the heck” and turned the breaker back on...it started running!  It must require going through a start-up several times before it resets.  I opened the bleed screw to permit the air to expell as it primed and eureka!  It is pumping water again!

This is probably a temporary repair, so we'll try to source a new pump in Puerto Rico.


Re: Marco Pump stoppage

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello Duane,

I went through the same process 2 years ago.  My chosen replacement pump is a Marco 12E.

It is more compact than the original and as it is a constant pressure pump, I did not bother with an accumulator tank.  There is a very short delay for the pump to start up but this is fully acceptable to us.  

You may fit a smaller capacity/pressure Marco.  Some folks have fitted the 3 E model.

Best of luck.

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM007, in New Zealand leaving soon for Fiji.



On 22 Apr 2019, at 04:55, Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io <carlylelk@...> wrote:

Follow up:

After checking for a blockage, lack of voltage, or lack of water, the manual says the only other thing to check is the motor brushes. 

I took the back cover off and one motor brushholder and brush wire were badly corroded.  The wire fell apart as I touched it.  I replaced the wire with some copper stranded wire that I jammed into a hole I drilled in the carbon brush and then glued in place (not the best electrical connection, but the carbon block wouldn't accept solder).  I could not unsolder the wire from the circuit board (not enough heat) so I filed it flat and drilled it out hoping not to hit the conductor on the circuit board. Then I soldered the new wire to the circuit board.  When I reinstalled, it still didn't work, but gave a different error light.  We neglected to turn off the breaker and seeing it the next morning I turned it off, then thought “what the heck” and turned the breaker back on...it started running!  It must require going through a start-up several times before it resets.  I opened the bleed screw to permit the air to expell as it primed and eureka!  It is pumping water again!

This is probably a temporary repair, so we'll try to source a new pump in Puerto Rico.


Re: Marco Pump stoppage

Duane Siegfri
 

Follow up:

After checking for a blockage, lack of voltage, or lack of water, the manual says the only other thing to check is the motor brushes. 

I took the back cover off and one motor brushholder and brush wire were badly corroded.  The wire fell apart as I touched it.  I replaced the wire with some copper stranded wire that I jammed into a hole I drilled in the carbon brush and then glued in place (not the best electrical connection, but the carbon block wouldn't accept solder).  I could not unsolder the wire from the circuit board (not enough heat) so I filed it flat and drilled it out hoping not to hit the conductor on the circuit board. Then I soldered the new wire to the circuit board.  When I reinstalled, it still didn't work, but gave a different error light.  We neglected to turn off the breaker and seeing it the next morning I turned it off, then thought “what the heck” and turned the breaker back on...it started running!  It must require going through a start-up several times before it resets.  I opened the bleed screw to permit the air to expell as it primed and eureka!  It is pumping water again!

This is probably a temporary repair, so we'll try to source a new pump in Puerto Rico.


CloudStreet is for sale

Joe Nance
 

Hi All,

CloudStreet is for sale.  She is a 2001 Amel Super Maramu 2000 in excellent condition with many upgrades.  I have put up a website with the particulars and also posted to the 'Amel for Sale' subgroup.  I can be reached at:  joe at cloudstreet dot net . 

It has been a true pleasure.

Here is the web address:

https://sailingcloudstreet.blogspot.com/


Reya water pump pressure switch

Dan Carlson
 

Hello all, 

I still have the original Reya fresh water pump on BeBe and over the years the pressure achieved has slowely decreased.  In 2017 it would switch off automatically at about 33 psi on the guage.  Last year it was running longer so I adjusted the small spring on the pressure switch. Recently I had to back off the larger spring as the pump only reaches about 27 psi. There are no leaks around the pump and the system holds pressure overnight. 

For those of you with experience, can this be fixed with a rebuild? And if so, what are the key steps to getting it right.


Thanks and regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387.


Re: Mizzen Mast Access

Stephen Hancock
 

It is probably better to use an electrical lubricant to pull the wires. Less corrosive and much more slick.

On Apr 20, 2019, at 6:55 PM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi Gary,
The wires in the Mizzen seem to get wrapped around each other.
Upon inspection a few years ago I noticed that all the pull lines were in bad shape so I replaced them with dyneema. It is really cheap on EBay.
 
I am sure you have already tried this , however in case you did not did you try dropping a length of chain down the mast  tied to a piece of thin dyneema?
 
If that doesn’t work , as a last resort, I would un-splice the radar scanner cable . Then I would use a strong messenger line attached to it for
re-installation. Then I would  remove the scanner cable. Just as a security backup also solder a piece of single strand 12 gauge wire to the end of the radar cable in case your pull rope breaks or disconnects. I would also cut a few wires off the splice to make the entry smaller.
With the radar cable removed I think you will have room to pull the new cables. I had to replace the scanner cable and it was a bit of a project getting it to turn around the separator at the base of the mast. I use dishwashing soap when puling cables. I first pulled it from the hole in the side of the mizzen and then dropped it down into the aft head.
 
If possible I would also consider trying to make the hole that separates the two parts of the mast at its base larger..
 
Good news is that the new radar scanner by Raymarine is wireless if you want to change out your  chartplotter.
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Gary Wells
Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2019 1:01 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen Mast Access
 

OK, I am at an impasse with my mizzen mast.  We haven't quite gotten to the arbitration stage yet, but we have a situation of a stubborn lack of cooperation. 

My trusty wind generator threw a blade a couple of months ago.  Since it is a gen 1 Air-X (you know the one .. you can hear it several islands away!) I decided to have mercy on all my anchorage-mates and upgrade the generator to a quieter, more happy-hour-inducing model.  The mount-up was simple enough; actually things fit together quite well with only a half-millimeter or so difference here and there requiring a bit of sanding and a Dremel.  Then, it all fell apart ..  from the top.

The old Air-X was a self-regulated provider of 24VDC from the top of the mizzen straight through to the battery switch (via the ammeter and shutoff/idle switch) and it required only two wires (plus an 'earth' to the mast).  .

The new generator is a three-phase AC machine with a remote controller/convertor/regulator and it requires a three-wire drop to the box. 

Now 2x10Ga wire managed (barely) to fit down the mast, but the 3x10 won't.  During the process of learning this, the technicians lost and then removed the original wire, then they tried pulling it by connecting it to a no-longer-in-use small coaxial cable, and that connection parted, and finally they used the remaining messenger line .. and broke it.

Normally, it should not be hard to drop a new messenger, but hey have tried for 2 days and used several methods to no avail. There simply must be something blocking a passageway somewhere that they can't fish their way through. 

 

I'm  hoping someone might have a secret-handshake trick up their sleeve before we go to the next step; which is either to drill an access hole in the front of the mast and use the large forward channel (I hope it goes all the way without obstruction) or else we may have to unstep her and get it done that way .. although even that isn't a sure bet, I guess. 

This is a genuine "oh, it should take about 4 hours" job that has turned into 3 days of frustration for us as well as the technicians. 

 

We are in Martinique, so I am presuming that when they say they are 'out of options' they truly are. I know they have consulted with other experts around here so I don't feel like I am working with un-knowledgeable technicians.  BUT ..  there is a vast amount of knowledge here so I am hoping to garner a couple of options/ideas.

We definitely don't want to drill a second access hole in the top (cap) plate on the mizzen ...  that could be a structural issue.  I personally don;' want to drill through to the front of the mast, even thought this is a pretty good option, because even if the wire does come all the way down, there may be no way to silence it from banging around inside the larger passageway. 

Anyway, any suggestions will be very welcomed and thoroughly discussed. 

Thanks!!

 

Gary W

SM209 "Adagio"

Le Marin, Marinique

 



Re: Mizzen Mast Access

eric freedman
 

Hi Gary,

The wires in the Mizzen seem to get wrapped around each other.

Upon inspection a few years ago I noticed that all the pull lines were in bad shape so I replaced them with dyneema. It is really cheap on EBay.

 

I am sure you have already tried this , however in case you did not did you try dropping a length of chain down the mast  tied to a piece of thin dyneema?

 

If that doesn’t work , as a last resort, I would un-splice the radar scanner cable . Then I would use a strong messenger line attached to it for

re-installation. Then I would  remove the scanner cable. Just as a security backup also solder a piece of single strand 12 gauge wire to the end of the radar cable in case your pull rope breaks or disconnects. I would also cut a few wires off the splice to make the entry smaller.

With the radar cable removed I think you will have room to pull the new cables. I had to replace the scanner cable and it was a bit of a project getting it to turn around the separator at the base of the mast. I use dishwashing soap when puling cables. I first pulled it from the hole in the side of the mizzen and then dropped it down into the aft head.

 

If possible I would also consider trying to make the hole that separates the two parts of the mast at its base larger..

 

Good news is that the new radar scanner by Raymarine is wireless if you want to change out your  chartplotter.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Gary Wells
Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2019 1:01 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen Mast Access

 

OK, I am at an impasse with my mizzen mast.  We haven't quite gotten to the arbitration stage yet, but we have a situation of a stubborn lack of cooperation. 

My trusty wind generator threw a blade a couple of months ago.  Since it is a gen 1 Air-X (you know the one .. you can hear it several islands away!) I decided to have mercy on all my anchorage-mates and upgrade the generator to a quieter, more happy-hour-inducing model.  The mount-up was simple enough; actually things fit together quite well with only a half-millimeter or so difference here and there requiring a bit of sanding and a Dremel.  Then, it all fell apart ..  from the top.

The old Air-X was a self-regulated provider of 24VDC from the top of the mizzen straight through to the battery switch (via the ammeter and shutoff/idle switch) and it required only two wires (plus an 'earth' to the mast).  .

The new generator is a three-phase AC machine with a remote controller/convertor/regulator and it requires a three-wire drop to the box. 

Now 2x10Ga wire managed (barely) to fit down the mast, but the 3x10 won't.  During the process of learning this, the technicians lost and then removed the original wire, then they tried pulling it by connecting it to a no-longer-in-use small coaxial cable, and that connection parted, and finally they used the remaining messenger line .. and broke it.

Normally, it should not be hard to drop a new messenger, but hey have tried for 2 days and used several methods to no avail. There simply must be something blocking a passageway somewhere that they can't fish their way through. 

 

I'm  hoping someone might have a secret-handshake trick up their sleeve before we go to the next step; which is either to drill an access hole in the front of the mast and use the large forward channel (I hope it goes all the way without obstruction) or else we may have to unstep her and get it done that way .. although even that isn't a sure bet, I guess. 

This is a genuine "oh, it should take about 4 hours" job that has turned into 3 days of frustration for us as well as the technicians. 

 

We are in Martinique, so I am presuming that when they say they are 'out of options' they truly are. I know they have consulted with other experts around here so I don't feel like I am working with un-knowledgeable technicians.  BUT ..  there is a vast amount of knowledge here so I am hoping to garner a couple of options/ideas.

We definitely don't want to drill a second access hole in the top (cap) plate on the mizzen ...  that could be a structural issue.  I personally don;' want to drill through to the front of the mast, even thought this is a pretty good option, because even if the wire does come all the way down, there may be no way to silence it from banging around inside the larger passageway. 

Anyway, any suggestions will be very welcomed and thoroughly discussed.

Thanks!!

 

Gary W

SM209 "Adagio"

Le Marin, Marinique

 


Re: Mizzen Mast Access

Mark Erdos
 

Gary,

 

When I had to run an additional cable for a new radar unit, it took a lot of finesse. Attaching the new wire to the older one and pulling it down the mast did not work. There is some sort of lip about 8-12” up the mast from the base. I assume you are pulling the wire using the access panel at the base of the mast on the port side. From this port access I manage to finesse the wire over the obstruction using a wire coat hanger to nudge it. Laying on the aft cabin top with a flashlight in my mouth I could work to see the end of the wire.

 

I would suggest dropping a new messenger line. I used a large magnetic nut on the end of this and a magnet to find it at the lower end. Even getting this past the obstruction is a pain. Make a really good connection/splice to the wire you want to pull down through the mast. Tie a couple of wire ties to the messenger line about one foot and again at two feet from the splice. This will serve as an indicator to the person at the bottom when the new wire is almost there. Grease the first 4’ of the new cable. Gently pull the messenger cable down through the access port looking for the wire ties to show. Once you see the second tie, you know you are almost there. It is at this time you need to use a stiff piece of wire such as a wire coat hanger to finesse the new cable. You will probably be able to see the end of it to help guide. It may help to have a second person up the mast to pull up a little bit if needed. It is not possible to pull the new wire with the messenger line past the obstruction using brute force. Ask me how I know this.

 

Once you have the new cable down, it is easy to poke it into the access area that houses the mainsheet electric winch (in the aft head (starboard side of the mirror).

 

Sorry, I do not remember the formation of the obstruction or how exactly I got around it. It just recall it being an real #$%@ to manage. I promise you, it can be done J

 

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - San Blas Islands, Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Gary Wells
Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2019 1:01 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Mizzen Mast Access

 

OK, I am at an impasse with my mizzen mast.  We haven't quite gotten to the arbitration stage yet, but we have a situation of a stubborn lack of cooperation. 

My trusty wind generator threw a blade a couple of months ago.  Since it is a gen 1 Air-X (you know the one .. you can hear it several islands away!) I decided to have mercy on all my anchorage-mates and upgrade the generator to a quieter, more happy-hour-inducing model.  The mount-up was simple enough; actually things fit together quite well with only a half-millimeter or so difference here and there requiring a bit of sanding and a Dremel.  Then, it all fell apart ..  from the top.

The old Air-X was a self-regulated provider of 24VDC from the top of the mizzen straight through to the battery switch (via the ammeter and shutoff/idle switch) and it required only two wires (plus an 'earth' to the mast).  .

The new generator is a three-phase AC machine with a remote controller/convertor/regulator and it requires a three-wire drop to the box. 

Now 2x10Ga wire managed (barely) to fit down the mast, but the 3x10 won't.  During the process of learning this, the technicians lost and then removed the original wire, then they tried pulling it by connecting it to a no-longer-in-use small coaxial cable, and that connection parted, and finally they used the remaining messenger line .. and broke it.

Normally, it should not be hard to drop a new messenger, but hey have tried for 2 days and used several methods to no avail. There simply must be something blocking a passageway somewhere that they can't fish their way through. 

 

I'm  hoping someone might have a secret-handshake trick up their sleeve before we go to the next step; which is either to drill an access hole in the front of the mast and use the large forward channel (I hope it goes all the way without obstruction) or else we may have to unstep her and get it done that way .. although even that isn't a sure bet, I guess. 

This is a genuine "oh, it should take about 4 hours" job that has turned into 3 days of frustration for us as well as the technicians. 

 

We are in Martinique, so I am presuming that when they say they are 'out of options' they truly are. I know they have consulted with other experts around here so I don't feel like I am working with un-knowledgeable technicians.  BUT ..  there is a vast amount of knowledge here so I am hoping to garner a couple of options/ideas.

We definitely don't want to drill a second access hole in the top (cap) plate on the mizzen ...  that could be a structural issue.  I personally don;' want to drill through to the front of the mast, even thought this is a pretty good option, because even if the wire does come all the way down, there may be no way to silence it from banging around inside the larger passageway. 

Anyway, any suggestions will be very welcomed and thoroughly discussed.

Thanks!!

 

Gary W

SM209 "Adagio"

Le Marin, Marinique

 


Mizzen Mast Access

Gary Wells
 

OK, I am at an impasse with my mizzen mast.  We haven't quite gotten to the arbitration stage yet, but we have a situation of a stubborn lack of cooperation. 

My trusty wind generator threw a blade a couple of months ago.  Since it is a gen 1 Air-X (you know the one .. you can hear it several islands away!) I decided to have mercy on all my anchorage-mates and upgrade the generator to a quieter, more happy-hour-inducing model.  The mount-up was simple enough; actually things fit together quite well with only a half-millimeter or so difference here and there requiring a bit of sanding and a Dremel.  Then, it all fell apart ..  from the top.

The old Air-X was a self-regulated provider of 24VDC from the top of the mizzen straight through to the battery switch (via the ammeter and shutoff/idle switch) and it required only two wires (plus an 'earth' to the mast).  .

The new generator is a three-phase AC machine with a remote controller/convertor/regulator and it requires a three-wire drop to the box. 

Now 2x10Ga wire managed (barely) to fit down the mast, but the 3x10 won't.  During the process of learning this, the technicians lost and then removed the original wire, then they tried pulling it by connecting it to a no-longer-in-use small coaxial cable, and that connection parted, and finally they used the remaining messenger line .. and broke it.

Normally, it should not be hard to drop a new messenger, but hey have tried for 2 days and used several methods to no avail. There simply must be something blocking a passageway somewhere that they can't fish their way through. 

 

I'm  hoping someone might have a secret-handshake trick up their sleeve before we go to the next step; which is either to drill an access hole in the front of the mast and use the large forward channel (I hope it goes all the way without obstruction) or else we may have to unstep her and get it done that way .. although even that isn't a sure bet, I guess. 

This is a genuine "oh, it should take about 4 hours" job that has turned into 3 days of frustration for us as well as the technicians. 

 

We are in Martinique, so I am presuming that when they say they are 'out of options' they truly are. I know they have consulted with other experts around here so I don't feel like I am working with un-knowledgeable technicians.  BUT ..  there is a vast amount of knowledge here so I am hoping to garner a couple of options/ideas.

We definitely don't want to drill a second access hole in the top (cap) plate on the mizzen ...  that could be a structural issue.  I personally don;' want to drill through to the front of the mast, even thought this is a pretty good option, because even if the wire does come all the way down, there may be no way to silence it from banging around inside the larger passageway. 

Anyway, any suggestions will be very welcomed and thoroughly discussed.

Thanks!!

 

Gary W

SM209 "Adagio"

Le Marin, Marinique

 


Re: Marco Pump stoppage

Duane Siegfri
 

Ok, got it.

Duane


Re: SM Climma AC - Calpeda Pump Voltage with Breakers Off

Gary Silver
 
Edited

Hi Bill and Eric:

Yes, all the 220 panel CBs are double pole (both Line [brown] and Neutral [Blue] are switched).  With all breakers open (tripped) there is still 240 VAC across the blue and brown leads at the Calpeda Pump when hooked to shore power, but not when the genset is running.  Looking at the Climma schematic (really more of a diagram) the neutral and safety ground wires are wire straight thru from the "separate source" and the Line [brown] from the separate source is switched by the relays to provide line voltage to the pump when a given unit is switched on. So I can see perhaps that there might be 110 voltage between the blue and safety ground at the pump from this "seperate source" but not the 220 that I am seeing.  Olivier, are you there?   What is the separate source for the Climma relay box?

I believe that the "other source" supply for the relay box is directly wired from the 220 volt buss just down-stream from the GFCI 30 amp breaker on the side of the 220 volt panel before it is distributed to any of the CBs (Diruptors).  The difference between Euro power and US power is noted and somehow plays into this.   Will continue to puzzle this out along with you.  Perhaps I need to get to sail to some European power, plug in and see if the mystery voltage goes away.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335
Puerto Rico