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Mastervolt alternator overcharging
Joerg Esdorn
On my 55, I have a 110A/24v Mastervolt alternator for the house bank and the alpha pro regulator. I’ve had the battery temp alarm come on several times now because the regulator does not switch from Bulk to absorption. On my voltmeter on the panel, voltage is 30-31V and charge rate goes up and down quickly from 10-40A, all with the batteries full after days on shore charger. I checked out the regulator with the Masteradjust software and the sense and battery voltage was just below the 28.5V for the switch to absorption. So the regulator is seeing 2-2.5V less than what the batteries have - I checked the voltmeter with my multitester. At the suggestion of Pochon, I just replaced the regulator but that wasn’t the problem.
Any idea what could be wrong would be much app! Joerg Esdorn A55 Kincsem just left Barcelona for Valencia
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Re: Poor Anchor Chain Maintenance
Gary Silver
Hi James:
WOW!! If anyone needed additional impetus to take care of their chain (in addition to Kent on Kristi's story), you have provided it. May I make a couple of additional suggestions that have stood me in good stead for the last 18 years of my SM ownership (80% in Caribbean waters): 1. Convert the anchor wash down system to fresh water. 2. Install a fresh water deck wash down fitting (T'ed off with a valve from the anchor wash down line in the port forward locker). Every time you wash down the deck, direct some fresh water down the hawse pipe to douse the "pile" with some fresh water. 3. Make sure to plug the hawse pipe when sailing to prevent salt water flooding in there. 4. Pay out all the chain when going on the hard or at least twice per year. Thanks for sharing, and "motivating" us to be careful with this. Sincerely, Gary S. Silver, M.D. s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull #335 Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico
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Poor Anchor Chain Maintenance
James Sterling
Do yourself a favor and properly maintain your chain. While I've been working on various other refits in the last couple of years we've anchored in fairly shallow waters and not used much of our chain. We had never pulled it completely out since purchase 3 years ago. When I finally got down to chain replacement on my list I found myself in a nightmare. After pulling a good part out, everything stopped. Closer inspection revealed terribly rusted chain that was kinked and wouldn't come out. I hammered on links for 2 weeks removing a few feet at a time and then realized the remainder was balled up into what I can only describe as a dragons egg. Welded together by rust. I tried everything. Finally I resorted to soaking it all in 10 gallons of white vinigar with salt for 3 days. Some progress was made but not enough to get it out. It was wedged tightly in the locker and would not lift out. I thought about it a day or two and got creative. I ran a hook snubber line up thorugh the hawsepipe from the anchor locker and attached it to the primary halyard. I winched with what I estimate was about 300lbs of force and the whole mess broke free. At that point, I had to look at it kind of like a diamond cutter as to which link to cut to start making headway. Then I went to work with a battery powered angle grinder, cutting a section at a time and pulling bits of the mess out through locker access to the forward compartment into a bucket. This took a lot of time and taught me to take care of the chain. New chain was eventually marked and installed. It will come out yearly to reverse and maintain. Take care of your chain.
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Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean
Hi Stefan,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside. Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank. Best Barry and Penny “SV Lady Penrlope II” Amel 54. #17 Syracuse, Sicily
On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:
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AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean
Stefan Schaufert
Dear Amel Group,
For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
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Re: Masse - and Masse + lights
Thank’s Bill and Mohammed,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I spoke to Nicholas at Dessalator who confirmed they have it. Trouble I have is doing a bank transfer from the boat, bank need to text me before doing transfer and I can’t get that to work from US Bank to UK cell phone. I found “Advance Yacht Systems” in UK who have the part and actually get it from Dessalator. Easy payment with them (PayPal and Credit Card) and as I have crew joining from UK next week can ship to them to carry here. Thank’s again for your help. Could not imagine having to use the small button on the side of the solenoid for too long. Nice though to have that as a backup. Also when the solenoid coil burnt it blew one of the control board fuses. I assume that is a protection to not burn up the control board. Best Regards Barry and Penny “SV Lady Penelope II” Amel 54. #17 Syracuse, Sicily For the next week.
On Jul 3, 2019, at 16:03, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
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Re: Masse - and Masse + lights
Email contact"at"dessalator.com. They have it and can ship. There are different models. Include a photo.
On Wed, Jul 3, 2019, 1:35 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: SAILING TO FLORIDA FROM VENEZUELA
Mark McGovern
Alex,
Be sure to check out Noonsite: https://www.noonsite.com/place/usa/ The lack of a holding tanks could be an issue for you as you cannot discharge "black water" within 3 miles of shore. It's a significant fine on the order of US$2000 if you are found to be in violation of the law. Here is a link to the EPA website regarding this issue: https://www.epa.gov/vessels-marinas-and-ports/vessel-sewage-frequently-asked-questions#ndz At the end of the EPA page there is a list of people you can contact about this. I would contact one of them and see what they say, -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA
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Re: SAILING TO FLORIDA FROM VENEZUELA
I think the Maramu's air draft is only about 55', so, Alex, the ICW is totally accessible to you - we've "done the ditch" a few times in our similarly sized Santorin. It does offer some good flexibility to either go offshore or "inside" up the US east coast as weather allows and there are many excellent places to see. Pick up any of the excellent ICW guides.
Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris
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Re: Replacing rubber parts in Vetus Type 6 Flexible coupling 35mm shaft
James Alton
Confirming that the Vetus flexible rubber coupling type 6 #KO18 rubber doughnuts supplied by Amel were exactly the same dimensions as the original parts and fit perfectly. My boat is a 1987 Maramu with a 35mm shaft. James SV Sueno Sent from Samsung tablet.
-------- Original message -------- From: "James Alton via Groups.Io" <lokiyawl2@...> Date: 7/3/19 11:11 AM (GMT+01:00) To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Replacing rubber parts in Vetus Type 6 Flexible coupling 35mm shaft Miles, Thanks for your input. I now have my Vetus Flexible coupling apart. Removal of the forward half of the coupling is simply a matter of removal of the coupling bolts. This exposes the forward half of the rubber doughnuts. It looks like if the coupling bolts and the aft coupling half was cocked that it might provide enough clearance to remove the rubber doughnuts, not sure. The collar nut traps the coupling bolts. The proper way appears to be to remove the collar nut which allows the aft half of the coupling to slid aft, completely exposing the doughnuts. The collar nut is to be tightened to 130 pounds using a spanner wrench that is 20" long so something around 200 foot pounds. I was able to find a thin wrench only 9 inches long so I was pretty concerned that removal and retightening the collar nut might be impossible, hence my posted question. It turns out however that after lots of soaking with penetrating oil that the collar nut easily unscrewed by tapping the short spanner wrench with a rawhide mallet so clearly the nut was already loose. So I now have complete access to the rubber doughnuts and this will be an easy job so long as the spanner wrench does not fold up trying to torque the collar nut. Vetus lists a 60-90mm 20 inch long spanner wrench on their website but show no stock. I think I will try to find a spanner wrench that exactly fits the collar nut to have aboard. I think the adjustable wrench will pop out of the slot in the collar nut if tapped with a hammer. I purchased a package of the rubber doughnuts from Amel and a second package from SVB24. I am about to find out of they are correct. The original rubber doughnuts actually look to be in quite good shape so perhaps they have been replaced. Send me PM sometime and update us on your Atlantic crossing. If you would like any photos of the Vetus coupling disassembled let me know. Best, James Alton SV Sueno Maramun#220 Sent from Samsung tablet. -------- Original message -------- From: "smiles bernard via Groups.Io" <smilesbernard@...> Date: 7/2/19 11:20 PM (GMT+01:00) To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Replacing rubber parts in Vetus Type 6 Flexible coupling 35mm shaft Hi James I watched a mechanic undo mine when I had the engine mounts replaced No special tools were used As far as I remember there were a series of bolts around the outer perimeter that connected the 2 halves. The bolt heads I think had holes in to allow for seizing wire Once undone and the shaft pulled aft the rubber cones that sit on shafts were exposed We want to replace mine to but could source them at the time very easily so it’s something I might have a go at soon. All the very best Miles Horta Azores Heading back to the uk as soon as the weather allows !
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Re: Replacing rubber parts in Vetus Type 6 Flexible coupling 35mm shaft
James Alton
Miles, Thanks for your input. I now have my Vetus Flexible coupling apart. Removal of the forward half of the coupling is simply a matter of removal of the coupling bolts. This exposes the forward half of the rubber doughnuts. It looks like if the coupling bolts and the aft coupling half was cocked that it might provide enough clearance to remove the rubber doughnuts, not sure. The collar nut traps the coupling bolts. The proper way appears to be to remove the collar nut which allows the aft half of the coupling to slid aft, completely exposing the doughnuts. The collar nut is to be tightened to 130 pounds using a spanner wrench that is 20" long so something around 200 foot pounds. I was able to find a thin wrench only 9 inches long so I was pretty concerned that removal and retightening the collar nut might be impossible, hence my posted question. It turns out however that after lots of soaking with penetrating oil that the collar nut easily unscrewed by tapping the short spanner wrench with a rawhide mallet so clearly the nut was already loose. So I now have complete access to the rubber doughnuts and this will be an easy job so long as the spanner wrench does not fold up trying to torque the collar nut. Vetus lists a 60-90mm 20 inch long spanner wrench on their website but show no stock. I think I will try to find a spanner wrench that exactly fits the collar nut to have aboard. I think the adjustable wrench will pop out of the slot in the collar nut if tapped with a hammer. I purchased a package of the rubber doughnuts from Amel and a second package from SVB24. I am about to find out of they are correct. The original rubber doughnuts actually look to be in quite good shape so perhaps they have been replaced. Send me PM sometime and update us on your Atlantic crossing. If you would like any photos of the Vetus coupling disassembled let me know. Best, James Alton SV Sueno Maramun#220 Sent from Samsung tablet.
-------- Original message -------- From: "smiles bernard via Groups.Io" <smilesbernard@...> Date: 7/2/19 11:20 PM (GMT+01:00) To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Replacing rubber parts in Vetus Type 6 Flexible coupling 35mm shaft Hi James I watched a mechanic undo mine when I had the engine mounts replaced No special tools were used As far as I remember there were a series of bolts around the outer perimeter that connected the 2 halves. The bolt heads I think had holes in to allow for seizing wire Once undone and the shaft pulled aft the rubber cones that sit on shafts were exposed We want to replace mine to but could source them at the time very easily so it’s something I might have a go at soon. All the very best Miles Horta Azores Heading back to the uk as soon as the weather allows !
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Re: Masse - and Masse + lights
Mohammad Shirloo
Hi Barry;
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
It was nice to finally meet and thanks for the drinks. Dessalator usually stocks most of their items. They are pretty good at shipping and you should receive it in just a few a days. While you’re at it, check the condition of the high pressure hoses. Dessalator initially used HP hoses that were not UV resistant.
I noticed droplets forming at one of our HP connections a couple of years ago. I tried to cut the hose back and redo the HP connector. The hose protective covering started to crumble. The connectors are designed to work with the hose covering and once the
hose cover fails, so will the water tightness of the connector. If one of these fails while making water, the damage to the electronics and other items would be significant.
I ordered new hose and HP connectors and replaced all of them. From what I’ve been told by dessalator, the new hoses will not have the same issue.
Also check the bronze elbow from the HP pump to the blue pressure stabilizer canister ( if you have the 150 l/hr dessalator). Ours started leaking a few days ago. Luckily, since we have a smoke detector installed In the engine room, the moisture and mist
from the high pressure leak at the elbow, set of the smoke detector and we caught it before further damage.
If you haven’t already done so, I would also recommend a smoke detector in the engine room. Respectfully;
Mohammad Shirloo
323-633-2222 Cell
310-454-3148 Fax
On Jul 3, 2019, at 8:35 AM, Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry@...> wrote:
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Re: Masse - and Masse + lights
Hi Bill,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Another query on solenoids. I hope that you or another member might know options where I could get a good water solenoid on the back of the control panel for the Dessalotor 230v water maker. This solenoid stropped working so I used the button on the side of this solenoid to get the good water flowing into the tank. I am in Sicily and would like to know if this solenoid can be bought from a supplier who I could arrange shipping with. Would appreciate any advise. Best Barry and Penny “Lady Penelope II” Amel 54. #17 Syracuse, Sicily
On Jul 2, 2019, at 14:24, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
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Re: Replacing rubber parts in Vetus Type 6 Flexible coupling 35mm shaft
smiles bernard
Hi James I watched a mechanic undo mine when I had the engine mounts replaced No special tools were used As far as I remember there were a series of bolts around the outer perimeter that connected the 2 halves. The bolt heads I think had holes in to allow for seizing wire Once undone and the shaft pulled aft the rubber cones that sit on shafts were exposed We want to replace mine to but could source them at the time very easily so it’s something I might have a go at soon. All the very best Miles Horta Azores Heading back to the uk as soon as the weather allows !
On 1 Jul 2019, at 11:30, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:
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Re: SAILING TO FLORIDA FROM VENEZUELA
Alex,
Be sure to check for visa requirements based on the passport you plan to use.
When arriving in the USA as a private foreign flagged vessel, you will need to call the Customs Border Protection 800 number. You must have a working phone when you arrive in order to be able to do this. The 800 number will take all of your information and then send you to a CBP office to formally check in. They will need to issue a cruising permit (license) good for one year for the vessel. https://www.cbp.gov/ You are required to call the moment you reach a dock. All crew are required to go for the check in.
This is probably not legal but, once we landed in Key West and needed to get a SIM card in order to call the CBP number. We walked to the local CVS (pharmacy) and purchased a SIM card for our phone. We returned to the boat and placed the call.
From Jamaica, sail the windward passage (between Haiti and Cuba) and then follow the coast of Cuba to Florida. This passage is patrolled by the Cubans, Bahamians and USGC. It is an easy sail due to being leeward of the Bahama Islands.
I would recommend landing in Key West, FL. I say this because you can easily walk to the CBP office. There are two CBP officers there, one in the court house and one at the airport. They will require the vessel to be at a dock. Docks there are expensive but you can leave after checking in and anchor in the bay. Ft. Lauderdale is another painless entry point. Pier 66 Marina is just inside on the ICW (one drawbridge – opens on the ½ hour and hour on demand) and you can taxi to the CBP office (usually they send you to the cruise port just over the bridge). There is very limited anchoring in Ft. Lauderdale.
If you opt to check in at Key West, consider going to Dry Tortugas National Park. A day sail westward from Key West. It is a really cool place to hang for a couple of days.
We have always found the CBP to be helpful, professional and friendly (with one exception in St. Augustine FL). The same is true for the USCG. We have been boarded three times and each was a pleasant experience.
The cruising permit allows the vessel to cruise in the USA for one year. You must notify CBP as you sail and change CBP regions. This is not clearly defined so, it is just best to call them each time you move the boat more than a few miles or change states.
The limits of the ICW fixed bridges is 65’ This is not Amel friendly. Just know that when you see a fixed bridge on a chart, you will not fit under it. Draw bridges are not a problem and many open only on scheduled times. The depth of the ICW in many cases is also problematic for Amels, more so in the remote areas.
I do not know about holding tank regulations for foreign vessels. The USGC requires holding tanks on vessels subject to USA regulations. You will need do some homework on this and be absolutely certain of the findings. A fine for a violation would be very expensive. Discharge of sewage from all vessels is prohibited.
Consider the Bahamas as a stop either before or after the USA.
Hope this helps.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Alejandro Paquin
I am considering sailing up to Florida early December,
starting from my home port of La Guaira, Venezuela. I don´t think I would stop
in Cuba in principle, but maybe Jamaica. Can anyone provide some tips and
advice on a proposed route? Best place for US Port of entry and formalities
with a foreign flag vessel and crew. What to expect with US Customs. Also any
tips on sailing into the ICW in the Miami- Aventura area? Draft and bridges for
example. Also, I don not have any holding tanks onbard, is this an issue to
consider?
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Re: electrical connector for Boxtron
Ryan Meador
Hi Alex, These connectors are genderless (no need to worry about matching male/female), but will only mate with others of the same color. The contacts that go inside come in a variety of wire sizes, so be sure you get the right ones for your purpose -- it's likely most suppliers will sell the contacts separately from the housing. Many sizes are available on Amazon (like this one, which includes 8 AWG contacts) if the manufacturer only sells in bulk. You could also try Digi-Key once you know the part number for the contacts, which you can find in the data sheet. These are great connectors. I've used them on many projects. Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration Boston, MA, USA
On Tue, Jul 2, 2019 at 8:28 AM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
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Re: Pulling the mast to rerig
Alan Grayson
Hi All, thanks for the comments, I have spoken with the rigger again today to verify what everyone has said.
He said he did not mind doing the work with the mast up but said if I needed to do anything else now is a good time to do it. Cost, should be close to even after calculating cost of labor for 2 and a bit days VS cost of crane, them doing final prep work before pulling, then refitting and tuning, I will be doing all prep work, switching out the rigging wires and rehookup once installed. They will store the mast free for 2 weeks. The rigger asked if there was any other work I could do if the mast was pulled, answer is a big yes, I can pull some new wire, change the deck light, spot paint a bunch of corrosion spots ( no paint on deck), change AIS antenna plus servicing the gearboxes etc. The rigger has done a couple of Amels before as he asked about the condition of the mast pads. I plan on being in the carribean this winter so will get Amel Martinique to retune as it should stretch a bit by then. As an Aircraft Engineer I feel confident in being able to do this work and as I'm new to this boat( I have owned a boat for 20 years) it will be a great learning experience as well as a chance to fix a few other things that would be easier to do with the mast down. Regards Alan Grayson SV Ora Pai. SM 406 From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Miles <milesbid@...>
Sent: Tuesday, 2 July 2019 1:43:18 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Pulling the mast to rerig Hi Alan,
I would go to another rigger. Your rig should be so tight that there will never be a shock load. I changed my rigging after 60,000 miles and 18 years (not quite as far as Eric, and it appeared to be in good shape, like Eric’s. I think that trick is to keep it Amel tight. A rigger who does not know the boat will not make it tight enough. I see no reason to take the mast out except to charge you more.
Warm regards, Miles s/y Ladybug, sm216 , Newport RI Harbor.
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SAILING TO FLORIDA FROM VENEZUELA
I am considering sailing up to Florida early December, starting from my home port of La Guaira, Venezuela. I don´t think I would stop in Cuba in principle, but maybe Jamaica. Can anyone provide some tips and advice on a proposed route? Best place for US Port of entry and formalities with a foreign flag vessel and crew. What to expect with US Customs. Also any tips on sailing into the ICW in the Miami- Aventura area? Draft and bridges for example. Also, I don not have any holding tanks onbard, is this an issue to consider?
I´m thinking of heading south again in March or April 2020 -- Alex Paquin S/V " SIMPATICO" Amel Maramu Hull #94, 1981
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Re: Pulling the mast to rerig
Miles
Hi Alan,
I would go to another rigger. Your rig should be so tight that there will never be a shock load. I changed my rigging after 60,000 miles and 18 years (not quite as far as Eric, and it appeared to be in good shape, like Eric’s. I think that trick is to keep it Amel tight. A rigger who does not know the boat will not make it tight enough. I see no reason to take the mast out except to charge you more.
Warm regards, Miles s/y Ladybug, sm216 , Newport RI Harbor.
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Re: electrical connector for Boxtron
Google this: 50A Breakaway DC Power Connector Best, CW Bill Rouse Yacht School - Supporting Amel Owners www.YachtSchool.us 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 7:24 AM Alex Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote: Dear all,
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