Date   

Re: Prop shaft bearing

James Alton
 

Rainer,

   Really sorry to hear about the vibrations and the new oil leak.  I am not sure that a failed stern tube bearing would cause the amount of vibration that you are reporting, especially under sail?  I have run a boat once with a completely failed  stern tube bearing and while it was noisy the vibration was not terrible.    Did you try pulling and pushing sideways on the shaft to see if there was any noticeable play when you checked the prop?  Do you know if the balance was checked on the 25CM pulley that you installed?  You might also check the run out on the shaft near the coupling with a last word type indicator while rotating the shaft by hand.  Or based on how bad the vibration is you might just place a straight edge close to the shaft near the coupling and rotate it.  The run out might be bad enough that you can see the gap opening and closing as the shaft is rotated.  The only other thing that I can think of would be that the faces of the sides of the pulley you installed were not perfectly parallel.  You could check this by removing the coupling bolts, checking the alignment and then rotating the pulley 180 degrees and measuring again,  you should get the same readings of course.  I hope that you find the problem,  best of luck.

   Thanks to the Sharki #1 owner who reports that he has never had vibrations with his Amel alternator setup.  I am very anxious to set this up on Sueno ahead of the Atlantic crossing.

James

SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 2, 2019, at 8:00 AM, Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io <thelastoneever@...> wrote:

Thank you all for the feedback,
Unfortunately it’s not the alignment, which would have been quite easy to fix, nor the engine feet. The problem started after I installed a prop shaft alternator with a 25 cm pulley on the shaft. To do this I had to move the prop shaft 2cm to the back. Since then I have a dripping Volvo shaft seal , heavy vibrations under power or under sail and whistling loud noise over 2000rpm or if I sail over 6knots. I removed the alternator again, but noise and vibrations are still there.
I checked the prop but it looks fine.
I had several mechanics look into it (which I usually never have, as I do everything myself), but none could tell me for sure what’s wrong.
So I only can imagine my shaft bearing is failing after almost 40 years.
I would hate lifting the engine, as the Sharki has not an engine room like the SM, and I’m afraid it’s gonna take me much more than 6 hours as it would take Joel Potter😜
My idea now is to manufacture a tube split in half which would fit exactly around the shaft and try to hammer the bearing out from the inside...Anyone ever done this?
Thanx already 
Rainer Huthmacher, Sharki Rock’n Roll

On 2 Mar 2019, at 05:04, Giorgio Ardrizzi <giorgio.ardrizzi@...> wrote:

I have been using the shaft alternator for 30 years on my Sharki (#1 - 1980) and I've never had vibrations, just a little bit of belt noise.
In 2008 I replaced the Perkins 4108 with a Yanmar 54 hp and I also changed the propeller shaft and adapted the alternator that continues to go very well despite its 40 years of life
Maybe yours is an alignment problem.


Il Ven 1 Mar 2019, 15:05 James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2=aol.com@groups.io> ha scritto:
Hello,

   To those that have used the Amel  shaft generator on their straight shaft Maramu or Sharki,  do these tend to cause shaft vibration or was there just some problem with Yin Yang?  The shaft drive pulley was removed from my boat before I bought it and I have been planning to reinstall it this summer.

Thanks,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 11:08 AM, Steve Leeds via Groups.Io <yachtmaccabee@...> wrote:

You may want to check your shaft alignment.

Steve Leeds
Yacht MACCABEE
Sharki #121

On Friday, March 1, 2019, 6:06:47 AM EST, Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io <thelastoneever@...> wrote:


Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum









Re: Prop shaft bearing

Rainer Huthmacher
 

Thank you all for the feedback,
Unfortunately it’s not the alignment, which would have been quite easy to fix, nor the engine feet. The problem started after I installed a prop shaft alternator with a 25 cm pulley on the shaft. To do this I had to move the prop shaft 2cm to the back. Since then I have a dripping Volvo shaft seal , heavy vibrations under power or under sail and whistling loud noise over 2000rpm or if I sail over 6knots. I removed the alternator again, but noise and vibrations are still there.
I checked the prop but it looks fine.
I had several mechanics look into it (which I usually never have, as I do everything myself), but none could tell me for sure what’s wrong.
So I only can imagine my shaft bearing is failing after almost 40 years.
I would hate lifting the engine, as the Sharki has not an engine room like the SM, and I’m afraid it’s gonna take me much more than 6 hours as it would take Joel Potter😜
My idea now is to manufacture a tube split in half which would fit exactly around the shaft and try to hammer the bearing out from the inside...Anyone ever done this?
Thanx already 
Rainer Huthmacher, Sharki Rock’n Roll

On 2 Mar 2019, at 05:04, Giorgio Ardrizzi <giorgio.ardrizzi@...> wrote:

I have been using the shaft alternator for 30 years on my Sharki (#1 - 1980) and I've never had vibrations, just a little bit of belt noise.
In 2008 I replaced the Perkins 4108 with a Yanmar 54 hp and I also changed the propeller shaft and adapted the alternator that continues to go very well despite its 40 years of life
Maybe yours is an alignment problem.


Il Ven 1 Mar 2019, 15:05 James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2=aol.com@groups.io> ha scritto:
Hello,

   To those that have used the Amel  shaft generator on their straight shaft Maramu or Sharki,  do these tend to cause shaft vibration or was there just some problem with Yin Yang?  The shaft drive pulley was removed from my boat before I bought it and I have been planning to reinstall it this summer.

Thanks,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 11:08 AM, Steve Leeds via Groups.Io <yachtmaccabee@...> wrote:

You may want to check your shaft alignment.

Steve Leeds
Yacht MACCABEE
Sharki #121

On Friday, March 1, 2019, 6:06:47 AM EST, Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io <thelastoneever@...> wrote:


Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum






Re: Window reveals refurb?

James Alton
 

Miles,

   We have revarnished the edges of some of the plywood cutouts for the ports/windows on Sueno with the Epifanes varnish and the match looks pretty good to the original varnish.  The wood was sunburnt from UV exposure but it was only superficial and a little sanding restored the original colour.  I don’t recall any delaminating wood on our boat so perhaps you had some leakage issues?  It is certainly important to keep the edges of plywood well sealed.   Epoxy would probably be the adhesive of choice to bond the layers back together.  Just sand off all of the epoxy on the face of the cutout leaving only the epoxy in the joints before you varnish.  The UV will still attack the epoxy in the glue joint but since it has some depth as compared to a thin coat it will last a long time.  You can add some carbon or aluminum powder to increase the UV resistance if you don’t mind the colour.  The plywood on Sueno is definitely a Mahogany, if I had to guess I would think is an African Mahogany but there are many different species that look similar.  I was able to order Epifanes clear varnish through Amazon.it in Italy.  

Best,

James

SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 8:32 PM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:

Thanks James

I’ll stick to just varnish

I like to avoid mixing up epoxy when I can anyhow. 👍

At the very edges of some of the reveals there are areas where the veneer is peeling 
I presume a good wood glue and clamping (somehow!) would be as good as anything and most likely leave a clear finish

I’ll look out for some epifanes. I believe the interior of the maramus is teak. Not sure how you choose to match but am presuming as clear as possible will be less visible vs darker will provide better UV protection ( for the reveals at least  )


Many thanks all

Miles
Maramu 162
Grenada 




On 1 Mar 2019, at 14:35, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Joel,

   Selling the Loki was a difficult decision for us.  This will be our fourth season with the Amel and we are both quite happy with the boat.   Thanks to you, the two Bills and the many others that helped us in making our decision to purchase an Amel.  I am glad to make a contribution where I can.

James and Joann
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 9:59 AM, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

All good advice James. No wonder you got an Amel after 40 years of varnishing wooden yachts. Loki’s are a treat for the eyes and deserve varnish. I can relate as the last big boat I owned with my brother before my first Amel was a Cheoy Lee Rhodes Reliant/Offshore 40 with about ten acres of varnish. That boat only leaked when it got wet…
 
Another negative thing about using a base coat of epoxy is that epoxy is much harder/stiffer/more brittle than most oil based varnish. Dropping a winch handle or the like usually results in the epoxy un-attaching itself from the wood. Also, where it gets really cold, I have seen all the epoxy base coat fracture which at best is unsightly and at worse means stripping it all to bare wood. 
You need tactical nuclear weapons to get epoxy off teak. 
 
          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.
                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE 
                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485
 
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 9:37 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Window reveals refurb?
 
My wife and I have restored and refinished wooden boats with lots of varnish over the past 40+ years.  We have removed a lot of varnish  was applied over epoxy by someone else.  If your base coat fails, any finish applied on top also fails no matter how many coats of varnish you apply.  The failure of the epoxy base coating starts by going milkly/opaque  looking so even if the varnish is not peeling it begins to look bad enough that it should be stripped.  My advice would be to never use epoxy under a clear finish since it does poorly with UV as compared a high quality marine varnish such as Epifanes.   The longest lasting varnish that we found is the Epifanes though there could be others the we have not tried.  The most critical part of a long lasting varnish job are the initial base coats.  Cut your first coat 50% with thinner, the second 25% to get good penetration into the wood for the best bond.  Varnish in good conditions so that the varnish cures properly, don’t rush the overcoating.  Finally, always add your maintenance coats before the varnish looks like it needs it. Once the crazing starts, you have waited too long and the varnish will never look as nice or hold up as well.  We stripped the exterior mahogany on our 1953 Loki Yawl in 1999 and refinished with Epifanes.  The varnish has been recoated with two coats per season when the boat was North in Maine and Nova Scotia and 2-3 times per year when used in the tropics.  The varnish work on the boat still looked amazing in 2018 when we sold the boat.  Best of luck. 
 
James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
 
On Mar 1, 2019, at 7:17 AM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:
 
Thanks very much guys
 
Yes I’ve been wondering whether to epoxy 1st or just the simpler direct varnish approach 
 
 

All the very best


On 1 Mar 2019, at 06:45, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
-- 
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece
 




Outhaul shaft removal

eric freedman
 

 

 

I would start by removing the screw in the L shaped part if the outhaul pin of the Anderson winch.

 

I would then buy a long grade 10 cap screw probably 3-4 inches.

Remove the bolt and washers from the bottom of the shaft . Then screw in the cap screw about an inch . Then try pounding on the head of the bolt with a hand held sledge hammer. We call it a lump hammer.

 

In my case it didn’t work,

The key was just rusted in place.

 

I removed the boom turned it upside down on some 4x4 dunnage on the deck

I loaded the shaft down with PB blaster and let it sit for a few days. I then  went to town on it with a full size sledge hammer.

Not exactly a  surgery. It is important to hit the bolt squarely tapping strongly only raising the hammer 3 or 4 inches. Finesse with a sledge hammer..

You don’t want to break off the bolt., or do damage to the gearbox.

Once it moves a few thousands of an inch it will come out easily.

 

I sanded the rust off the shaft with a dremel tool and used the side of a dremel cut off blade to remove a few thousands of  an inch.

off of the 3 sides of the key. I now  use a liberal amount of never-seez on the shaft every 6 months. A 5 minute job.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018M5T4LU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I keep the cap screw taped to the can of Never-Seez –convenient place to keep it.

Good luck.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: carpathia3 via groups.io [mailto:carpathia3@...]
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2019 10:23 AM
To: eric freedman
Subject: Private: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Gearbox greasing

 

Hi Eric,

Thank you for your response, very clear! And yes, I would like to attend to the shaft as well... Just not sure I will be able to take it out. I may have to construct a tool like Jose's to remove it. Mine has probably never been serviced in 19 years so I expect the worst...

I know you are also a big fan of the Jordan drogue and I am quite interested in having one on Carpathia. Can I ask you for your latest advice on how to fit it well with the backstays, and what you found the best setup on the SM. Any picture would help too...

Many thanks,

Guillaume


Re: Additional solar location?

ericmeury <ericmeury@...>
 

Amel Santorin.

We are finishing up our arch and have a hydrovane.  600 Watts of Solar on the ARCH.  200 on a new hard bimini. (Also have a solar hot water panel)...if i didn't have that i could probably fit 400 Watts here.  and 200 Watts in sunpower flexible panels behind the mast.  Amp air half way up the mizzen (been there since first owner in 1993)  and might install a fourwinds at the top of the mizzen


Re: Prop shaft bearing

Giorgio Ardrizzi
 

I have been using the shaft alternator for 30 years on my Sharki (#1 - 1980) and I've never had vibrations, just a little bit of belt noise.
In 2008 I replaced the Perkins 4108 with a Yanmar 54 hp and I also changed the propeller shaft and adapted the alternator that continues to go very well despite its 40 years of life
Maybe yours is an alignment problem.


Il Ven 1 Mar 2019, 15:05 James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2=aol.com@groups.io> ha scritto:
Hello,

   To those that have used the Amel  shaft generator on their straight shaft Maramu or Sharki,  do these tend to cause shaft vibration or was there just some problem with Yin Yang?  The shaft drive pulley was removed from my boat before I bought it and I have been planning to reinstall it this summer.

Thanks,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 11:08 AM, Steve Leeds via Groups.Io <yachtmaccabee@...> wrote:

You may want to check your shaft alignment.

Steve Leeds
Yacht MACCABEE
Sharki #121

On Friday, March 1, 2019, 6:06:47 AM EST, Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io <thelastoneever@...> wrote:


Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum






Re: Window reveals refurb?

smiles bernard
 

Thanks James

I’ll stick to just varnish

I like to avoid mixing up epoxy when I can anyhow. 👍

At the very edges of some of the reveals there are areas where the veneer is peeling 
I presume a good wood glue and clamping (somehow!) would be as good as anything and most likely leave a clear finish

I’ll look out for some epifanes. I believe the interior of the maramus is teak. Not sure how you choose to match but am presuming as clear as possible will be less visible vs darker will provide better UV protection ( for the reveals at least  )


Many thanks all

Miles
Maramu 162
Grenada 




On 1 Mar 2019, at 14:35, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Joel,

   Selling the Loki was a difficult decision for us.  This will be our fourth season with the Amel and we are both quite happy with the boat.   Thanks to you, the two Bills and the many others that helped us in making our decision to purchase an Amel.  I am glad to make a contribution where I can.

James and Joann
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 9:59 AM, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

All good advice James. No wonder you got an Amel after 40 years of varnishing wooden yachts. Loki’s are a treat for the eyes and deserve varnish. I can relate as the last big boat I owned with my brother before my first Amel was a Cheoy Lee Rhodes Reliant/Offshore 40 with about ten acres of varnish. That boat only leaked when it got wet…
 
Another negative thing about using a base coat of epoxy is that epoxy is much harder/stiffer/more brittle than most oil based varnish. Dropping a winch handle or the like usually results in the epoxy un-attaching itself from the wood. Also, where it gets really cold, I have seen all the epoxy base coat fracture which at best is unsightly and at worse means stripping it all to bare wood. 
You need tactical nuclear weapons to get epoxy off teak. 
 
          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.
                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE 
                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485
 
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 9:37 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Window reveals refurb?
 
My wife and I have restored and refinished wooden boats with lots of varnish over the past 40+ years.  We have removed a lot of varnish  was applied over epoxy by someone else.  If your base coat fails, any finish applied on top also fails no matter how many coats of varnish you apply.  The failure of the epoxy base coating starts by going milkly/opaque  looking so even if the varnish is not peeling it begins to look bad enough that it should be stripped.  My advice would be to never use epoxy under a clear finish since it does poorly with UV as compared a high quality marine varnish such as Epifanes.   The longest lasting varnish that we found is the Epifanes though there could be others the we have not tried.  The most critical part of a long lasting varnish job are the initial base coats.  Cut your first coat 50% with thinner, the second 25% to get good penetration into the wood for the best bond.  Varnish in good conditions so that the varnish cures properly, don’t rush the overcoating.  Finally, always add your maintenance coats before the varnish looks like it needs it. Once the crazing starts, you have waited too long and the varnish will never look as nice or hold up as well.  We stripped the exterior mahogany on our 1953 Loki Yawl in 1999 and refinished with Epifanes.  The varnish has been recoated with two coats per season when the boat was North in Maine and Nova Scotia and 2-3 times per year when used in the tropics.  The varnish work on the boat still looked amazing in 2018 when we sold the boat.  Best of luck. 
 
James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
 
On Mar 1, 2019, at 7:17 AM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:
 
Thanks very much guys
 
Yes I’ve been wondering whether to epoxy 1st or just the simpler direct varnish approach 
 
 

All the very best


On 1 Mar 2019, at 06:45, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
-- 
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece
 



Re: Prop shaft bearing

James Alton
 

Hello,

   To those that have used the Amel  shaft generator on their straight shaft Maramu or Sharki,  do these tend to cause shaft vibration or was there just some problem with Yin Yang?  The shaft drive pulley was removed from my boat before I bought it and I have been planning to reinstall it this summer.

Thanks,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 11:08 AM, Steve Leeds via Groups.Io <yachtmaccabee@...> wrote:

You may want to check your shaft alignment.

Steve Leeds
Yacht MACCABEE
Sharki #121

On Friday, March 1, 2019, 6:06:47 AM EST, Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io <thelastoneever@...> wrote:


Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum






Re: Window reveals refurb?

James Alton
 

Joel,

   Selling the Loki was a difficult decision for us.  This will be our fourth season with the Amel and we are both quite happy with the boat.   Thanks to you, the two Bills and the many others that helped us in making our decision to purchase an Amel.  I am glad to make a contribution where I can.

James and Joann
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 9:59 AM, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

All good advice James. No wonder you got an Amel after 40 years of varnishing wooden yachts. Loki’s are a treat for the eyes and deserve varnish. I can relate as the last big boat I owned with my brother before my first Amel was a Cheoy Lee Rhodes Reliant/Offshore 40 with about ten acres of varnish. That boat only leaked when it got wet…
 
Another negative thing about using a base coat of epoxy is that epoxy is much harder/stiffer/more brittle than most oil based varnish. Dropping a winch handle or the like usually results in the epoxy un-attaching itself from the wood. Also, where it gets really cold, I have seen all the epoxy base coat fracture which at best is unsightly and at worse means stripping it all to bare wood. 
You need tactical nuclear weapons to get epoxy off teak. 
 
          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.
                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE 
                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485
 
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 9:37 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Window reveals refurb?
 
My wife and I have restored and refinished wooden boats with lots of varnish over the past 40+ years.  We have removed a lot of varnish  was applied over epoxy by someone else.  If your base coat fails, any finish applied on top also fails no matter how many coats of varnish you apply.  The failure of the epoxy base coating starts by going milkly/opaque  looking so even if the varnish is not peeling it begins to look bad enough that it should be stripped.  My advice would be to never use epoxy under a clear finish since it does poorly with UV as compared a high quality marine varnish such as Epifanes.   The longest lasting varnish that we found is the Epifanes though there could be others the we have not tried.  The most critical part of a long lasting varnish job are the initial base coats.  Cut your first coat 50% with thinner, the second 25% to get good penetration into the wood for the best bond.  Varnish in good conditions so that the varnish cures properly, don’t rush the overcoating.  Finally, always add your maintenance coats before the varnish looks like it needs it. Once the crazing starts, you have waited too long and the varnish will never look as nice or hold up as well.  We stripped the exterior mahogany on our 1953 Loki Yawl in 1999 and refinished with Epifanes.  The varnish has been recoated with two coats per season when the boat was North in Maine and Nova Scotia and 2-3 times per year when used in the tropics.  The varnish work on the boat still looked amazing in 2018 when we sold the boat.  Best of luck. 
 
James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
 
On Mar 1, 2019, at 7:17 AM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:
 
Thanks very much guys
 
Yes I’ve been wondering whether to epoxy 1st or just the simpler direct varnish approach 
 
 

All the very best


On 1 Mar 2019, at 06:45, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
-- 
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece
 



Re: Prop shaft bearing

Steve Leeds
 

You may want to check your shaft alignment.

Steve Leeds
Yacht MACCABEE
Sharki #121

On Friday, March 1, 2019, 6:06:47 AM EST, Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io <thelastoneever@...> wrote:


Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum





Re: Prop shaft bearing

Steve Leeds
 

HI Rainer,
I've changed my cutlass bearing many times in the past (the previous owner was using a 1 3/8" cutlass bearing when he should have used 35mm!  I did the same for several years until I changed the shaft to 1 3/8".  I think I've only changed it once since then.  I have 6800 hours on the original Perkins).  My cutlass bearing extends back from the boat enough to be able to "grab" it with a puller with the shaft still in place.  After removing the propeller, first remove the set screws, drill dimples in the cutlass bearing for the puller to hold onto and pull it out.  I have a custom puller the previous owner of my boat made up from a steel plumbing pipe that just fit over the cutlass bearing.  I'll try to remember to take a photo of it on my next visit to MACCABEE.

To remove the shaft, you must lift the engine high enough to bring the shaft under the engine.  Other than the coupling, You probably don't need to disconnect anything else from the engine.  I lay a 6" x 6" wood beam across the seats on each side of the engine compartment, with a piece of 2" x 6" board under each end of the 6 x 6 to spread the load and use a chain lift chained to the 6 x 6 to raise the engine.  I may have removed the engine cover for clearance -- I can't remember.  I have only done it once in the mid 90's.

Regards,
Steve Leeds
Yacht MACCABEE
Sharki #121

On Friday, March 1, 2019, 8:28:02 AM EST, Warren Traill <trailz@...> wrote:


Hi Rainer. Although I haven’t replace my cutlass bearing yet, my understanding is that you remove the propeller, undo the alum key on the shaft and pull off the cutlass bearing.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Warren
Manon2
Sharki #15

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, 1 March 2019 7:07 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Prop shaft bearing

Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum









Re: Prop shaft bearing

Rainer Huthmacher
 

Thank you gentlemen....

On 1. Mar 2019, at 15:43, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

On the Sharki, you must undo the motor mounts and lift the engine up about 20"/inches 50 cm in order to remove the propeller shaft as it is too long to fit as it hits the rudder skeg. It is an easy 6 hour job if nothing is badly rusted.

To remove the prop shaft/cutless bearing, remove the propeller, un-tighten the bolt holding the bearing in place on the side of the stern tube and use a pipe wrench or a chain wrench to rotate the cutless out. Easy one hour job.

 

All The Best, Joel

 

                       JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 6:07 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Prop shaft bearing

 

Hello Captains of Amels,

I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...

How do I pull the propshaft?

Do I really have to lift the engine?

Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....

Rainer Huthmacher

Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...

It feels good to back in this great forum

 

 

 

 


Re: CAT pump mechanics needed in FLA

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

A friend recommended Watermakers, Inc, website is www.watermakers.com in Ft. Lauderdale 954-937-2415.  They would be good for general repairs i.e. the Cat Pump, membrane replacement, etc. however, they are not specifically familiar with the Dessalator.

Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: Window reveals refurb?

amelforme
 

All good advice James. No wonder you got an Amel after 40 years of varnishing wooden yachts. Loki’s are a treat for the eyes and deserve varnish. I can relate as the last big boat I owned with my brother before my first Amel was a Cheoy Lee Rhodes Reliant/Offshore 40 with about ten acres of varnish. That boat only leaked when it got wet…

 

Another negative thing about using a base coat of epoxy is that epoxy is much harder/stiffer/more brittle than most oil based varnish. Dropping a winch handle or the like usually results in the epoxy un-attaching itself from the wood. Also, where it gets really cold, I have seen all the epoxy base coat fracture which at best is unsightly and at worse means stripping it all to bare wood.

You need tactical nuclear weapons to get epoxy off teak.

 

          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 9:37 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Window reveals refurb?

 

My wife and I have restored and refinished wooden boats with lots of varnish over the past 40+ years.  We have removed a lot of varnish  was applied over epoxy by someone else.  If your base coat fails, any finish applied on top also fails no matter how many coats of varnish you apply.  The failure of the epoxy base coating starts by going milkly/opaque  looking so even if the varnish is not peeling it begins to look bad enough that it should be stripped.  My advice would be to never use epoxy under a clear finish since it does poorly with UV as compared a high quality marine varnish such as Epifanes.   The longest lasting varnish that we found is the Epifanes though there could be others the we have not tried.  The most critical part of a long lasting varnish job are the initial base coats.  Cut your first coat 50% with thinner, the second 25% to get good penetration into the wood for the best bond.  Varnish in good conditions so that the varnish cures properly, don’t rush the overcoating.  Finally, always add your maintenance coats before the varnish looks like it needs it. Once the crazing starts, you have waited too long and the varnish will never look as nice or hold up as well.  We stripped the exterior mahogany on our 1953 Loki Yawl in 1999 and refinished with Epifanes.  The varnish has been recoated with two coats per season when the boat was North in Maine and Nova Scotia and 2-3 times per year when used in the tropics.  The varnish work on the boat still looked amazing in 2018 when we sold the boat.  Best of luck. 

 

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

 

On Mar 1, 2019, at 7:17 AM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:

 

Thanks very much guys

 

Yes I’ve been wondering whether to epoxy 1st or just the simpler direct varnish approach 

 

 

All the very best


On 1 Mar 2019, at 06:45, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
-- 
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece

 


Re: Prop shaft bearing

amelforme
 

On the Sharki, you must undo the motor mounts and lift the engine up about 20"/inches 50 cm in order to remove the propeller shaft as it is too long to fit as it hits the rudder skeg. It is an easy 6 hour job if nothing is badly rusted.

To remove the prop shaft/cutless bearing, remove the propeller, un-tighten the bolt holding the bearing in place on the side of the stern tube and use a pipe wrench or a chain wrench to rotate the cutless out. Easy one hour job.

 

All The Best, Joel

 

                       JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 6:07 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Prop shaft bearing

 

Hello Captains of Amels,

I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...

How do I pull the propshaft?

Do I really have to lift the engine?

Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....

Rainer Huthmacher

Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...

It feels good to back in this great forum

 

 

 

 


Re: Window reveals refurb?

James Alton
 

My wife and I have restored and refinished wooden boats with lots of varnish over the past 40+ years.  We have removed a lot of varnish  was applied over epoxy by someone else.  If your base coat fails, any finish applied on top also fails no matter how many coats of varnish you apply.  The failure of the epoxy base coating starts by going milkly/opaque  looking so even if the varnish is not peeling it begins to look bad enough that it should be stripped.  My advice would be to never use epoxy under a clear finish since it does poorly with UV as compared a high quality marine varnish such as Epifanes.   The longest lasting varnish that we found is the Epifanes though there could be others the we have not tried.  The most critical part of a long lasting varnish job are the initial base coats.  Cut your first coat 50% with thinner, the second 25% to get good penetration into the wood for the best bond.  Varnish in good conditions so that the varnish cures properly, don’t rush the overcoating.  Finally, always add your maintenance coats before the varnish looks like it needs it. Once the crazing starts, you have waited too long and the varnish will never look as nice or hold up as well.  We stripped the exterior mahogany on our 1953 Loki Yawl in 1999 and refinished with Epifanes.  The varnish has been recoated with two coats per season when the boat was North in Maine and Nova Scotia and 2-3 times per year when used in the tropics.  The varnish work on the boat still looked amazing in 2018 when we sold the boat.  Best of luck. 

James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 7:17 AM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:

Thanks very much guys

Yes I’ve been wondering whether to epoxy 1st or just the simpler direct varnish approach 


All the very best


On 1 Mar 2019, at 06:45, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
-- 
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Prop shaft bearing

Warren Traill
 

Hi Rainer. Although I haven’t replace my cutlass bearing yet, my understanding is that you remove the propeller, undo the alum key on the shaft and pull off the cutlass bearing.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Warren
Manon2
Sharki #15

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, 1 March 2019 7:07 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Prop shaft bearing

Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum


Re: Window reveals refurb?

smiles bernard
 

Thanks very much guys

Yes I’ve been wondering whether to epoxy 1st or just the simpler direct varnish approach 


All the very best


On 1 Mar 2019, at 06:45, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Prop shaft bearing

Rainer Huthmacher
 

Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum


Re: Window reveals refurb?

Gerhard Mueller
 

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece