Date   

Re: Earth bonding and watermaker

 

Nick, 

I think that most of your questions were directed to me and I already stated that I am not an electrical engineer. Maybe some should be directed to SAV at Amel.

I will answer from my experience. 
  • The connections between the yellow/green bonding wire and devices will get corroded even if the wire is not soldered.
  • The resistance between the propellor and the anode should be zero or almost zero
  • I believe that the connections should be clean and free of paint and corrosion. 
  • I believe that you should check on each 2-year haulout the resistance between the rudder anodes and the propellor. This check will verify, engine, transmission, and C-Drive.
  • I think the Amel Bonding System is more than adequate. Keep in mind that there are many builders that bond nothing! Amel bonds most water connections, even when it is saltwater that is the most common culprit.
  • Some of the connections are more important than others, but at least one owner experienced significant C-Drive damage and the propellor is vulnerable if the bonding connection to the C-Drive fails
  • If you suspect something is going on, connect a wire to the rudder post quadrant and test resistance between it and the C-Drive. You are looking for good continuity and almost zero resistance.
  • Once you have verified engine, transmission & C-Drive, checking resistance between the C-Drive and various other bonding connections should ensure that the various other bonding connections are adequate, if the resistance is near zero.
  • On SN, SM, & 54, visually inspect the bonding strap inside the grey water bilge to ensure that the copper strap is OK beginning at the stainless steel nut at the bottom up to the yellow/green wire(s) junction at the top. You will have to pump 100% of the water out using a wet vac or similar. The most common place for a break is within about 3" of the stainless steel nut and even 1/2" of water will hide a break. If it is broken, replace it because this protects your cast iron ballast from electrolysis. Use 1/8" X 2" copper bar...don't use stainless steel for many reasons.
image.png

I hope that this helps.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Thu, Mar 14, 2019 at 11:58 AM ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,

I meant to say well done to all those involved with setting up the new owners site. Thanks.

Good bonding connections????

How good can we expect the connections on the bonding circuits to be? I note that on my boat and from pictures in the owners manuals that the yellow/green wires that are used for the bonding circuit are not tinned (I think) and very often are connected to say a metal object with a hose clamp and some of the plastic insulation removed from the wire, linking one fitting to the next in a ring.  These connections will invariably become oxidised and green. Given the very low voltages, the connection will be poor. I have made an effort to improve the connections where practical, by changing some hose clamps for new and cleaning up the surfaces, but I wonder how far to go. I was always taught that one should use a dedicated insulated lug with a soldered connector and a copper bolted on lug for all bonding connections, and to avoid clamping uninsulated wire with a hose clamp to, say, a through hull fitting or a saltwater manifold, for example.

Do you think the original connection system is adequate? How important are these connections? Do you think it a good idea to measure the resistance between the Zincs on the rudder and various connected fittings around the boat? If so what might be an acceptable reading?

Kind regards

Nick 


S/Y Amelia hull 019  Aml 54
On 14 Mar 2019, at 15:06, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Arno,

Of course I do not know exactly the cause of the corrosion, but it may be saltwater caused corrosion and was not caused by a missing or poor bonding connection. 

I am not an electrical engineer. Let me attempt to give you a Bill Rouse explanation and answer to your question. Be sure to read all of the Electrical Warnings in your Amel 54 User and Owners manual (You may want to ask SAV at Amel, afterall, that is what they are there for):

Bonding Connections on your Amel 54 were designed to electrically connect devices in contact with water to the anodes on the rudder. There is micro voltage in this pathway and the least amount of corrosion between the bonding wire and the device will cause issues similar to no bonding connection. The metal where the yellow/green wire connects should be free of paint and very clean. The same thing for the bare end of the wire.

EARTH Connections on your Amel 54 are designed to protect you from electrical shock. These connections should cause either the Main breaker to open or the device breaker to open when a 220VAC load line connects to the yellow/green EARTH. An example would be your 220VAC dessalator pump motor has a EARTH connection. If possibly saltwater was spilled on the pump creating a connection between the 220VAC load line and EARTH, breakers will open cutting OFF the 220VAC load line to the electric motor. If in this example if the EARTH connection to the motor was broken, the possibility of electric shock will exist when you touch the motor or anything connected to the motor.

EARTH and Bonding are separate systems, but sometimes EARTH meets Bonding on your Amel 54. A good example of this is the original Calpeda A/C pump. It is connected to Bonding at the output pipe. The 220VAC EARTH is connected to the metal case inside the wiring box. And, of course, the metal case is connected to the output pipe, thus EARTH and Bonding are connected. I believe that the same thing is true on your Dessalator Duo.

I hope this explanation helps. 

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Thu, Mar 14, 2019 at 7:50 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Hi All,

I'm wondering about a thing after removing my Duo watermaker. I noticed quite some galvanic corrosion despite the fact that the green/yellow bonding wire was attached at several points to the watermaker.
I was actually just in time taking the thing apart as I'm still able to salvage all the important bits.
From traces I could see I'm guessing one of the endcaps on the pump has been leaking also given the amount of salt build-up at the chassis and pump-base.

What I'm wondering about is the bonding sytem. Is it also connected to the shore power earth lead? From earlier conversations I vaguely remember it was not connected.  If not then why is the earth connection of the 230 Volt pump connected to the mains earth?

Any advise appreciated.

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121




Re: Sharki shaft alternator

Gerhard Mueller
 

Cigale
many, many thanks for your pictures. Very helpful.
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Solar Panel Arches

ngtnewington Newington
 


I had this stern arch made by Nick in Grenada. (TechNick Ltd SIMS Boat Yard) I showed him an example of the Emek arch and we discussed it. We tried flexing it by hand and it wobbled a lot. Nick said that if you use a twin tube design it will be much stiffer. This is like foam sandwich construction on a hull rather than single skin, which is vastly stiffer (although with hull design there is water ingress between the skins to worry about, but that is a different story). Nick built this arch for me and it is great and does not wobble at all, even in  rough weather  or in between the islands in a solid wind with dinghy hoisted. The point is that the twin walled pipe is connected one to another with short little struts. In my opinion it greatly stiffens the whole structure.

Nick 

Amelia (Aml 54 019) currently  ashore in La Palma Canary Islands but sailing to Greece this May.

On 14 Mar 2019, at 16:17, Craig Briggs via Groups.Io <sangaris@...> wrote:

That sounds great, José, that Atlantic will add stiffeners. And, yes, leg-out pre-tensioning is what I did and what Atlantic's instructions said - a ratchet-strap is needed to pull the legs together to get them into the preinstalled deck mounts, although that's a finicky process and a rubber mallet helps.
Good luck with it,
Craig SN68 Sangaris


Re: Earth bonding and watermaker

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Bill,

I meant to say well done to all those involved with setting up the new owners site. Thanks.

Good bonding connections????

How good can we expect the connections on the bonding circuits to be? I note that on my boat and from pictures in the owners manuals that the yellow/green wires that are used for the bonding circuit are not tinned (I think) and very often are connected to say a metal object with a hose clamp and some of the plastic insulation removed from the wire, linking one fitting to the next in a ring.  These connections will invariably become oxidised and green. Given the very low voltages, the connection will be poor. I have made an effort to improve the connections where practical, by changing some hose clamps for new and cleaning up the surfaces, but I wonder how far to go. I was always taught that one should use a dedicated insulated lug with a soldered connector and a copper bolted on lug for all bonding connections, and to avoid clamping uninsulated wire with a hose clamp to, say, a through hull fitting or a saltwater manifold, for example.

Do you think the original connection system is adequate? How important are these connections? Do you think it a good idea to measure the resistance between the Zincs on the rudder and various connected fittings around the boat? If so what might be an acceptable reading?

Kind regards

Nick 


S/Y Amelia hull 019  Aml 54

On 14 Mar 2019, at 15:06, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Arno,

Of course I do not know exactly the cause of the corrosion, but it may be saltwater caused corrosion and was not caused by a missing or poor bonding connection. 

I am not an electrical engineer. Let me attempt to give you a Bill Rouse explanation and answer to your question. Be sure to read all of the Electrical Warnings in your Amel 54 User and Owners manual (You may want to ask SAV at Amel, afterall, that is what they are there for):

Bonding Connections on your Amel 54 were designed to electrically connect devices in contact with water to the anodes on the rudder. There is micro voltage in this pathway and the least amount of corrosion between the bonding wire and the device will cause issues similar to no bonding connection. The metal where the yellow/green wire connects should be free of paint and very clean. The same thing for the bare end of the wire.

EARTH Connections on your Amel 54 are designed to protect you from electrical shock. These connections should cause either the Main breaker to open or the device breaker to open when a 220VAC load line connects to the yellow/green EARTH. An example would be your 220VAC dessalator pump motor has a EARTH connection. If possibly saltwater was spilled on the pump creating a connection between the 220VAC load line and EARTH, breakers will open cutting OFF the 220VAC load line to the electric motor. If in this example if the EARTH connection to the motor was broken, the possibility of electric shock will exist when you touch the motor or anything connected to the motor.

EARTH and Bonding are separate systems, but sometimes EARTH meets Bonding on your Amel 54. A good example of this is the original Calpeda A/C pump. It is connected to Bonding at the output pipe. The 220VAC EARTH is connected to the metal case inside the wiring box. And, of course, the metal case is connected to the output pipe, thus EARTH and Bonding are connected. I believe that the same thing is true on your Dessalator Duo.

I hope this explanation helps. 

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Thu, Mar 14, 2019 at 7:50 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Hi All,

I'm wondering about a thing after removing my Duo watermaker. I noticed quite some galvanic corrosion despite the fact that the green/yellow bonding wire was attached at several points to the watermaker.
I was actually just in time taking the thing apart as I'm still able to salvage all the important bits.
From traces I could see I'm guessing one of the endcaps on the pump has been leaking also given the amount of salt build-up at the chassis and pump-base.

What I'm wondering about is the bonding sytem. Is it also connected to the shore power earth lead? From earlier conversations I vaguely remember it was not connected.  If not then why is the earth connection of the 230 Volt pump connected to the mains earth?

Any advise appreciated.

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121




Re: Gross tonnage on SM

 

This thread is as long as an anchor thread.😀

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Thu, Mar 14, 2019 at 11:46 AM Craig Briggs via Groups.Io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Here's what's been reported on this thread.
  • Denise on CARA, a SM, has 26GRT  /  23NRT
  • Eric on Kibelite, a SM  has 28 GRT / 25 NRT on his US Documentation but that was done by Amel (French numbers?)
  • Bill Rouse reports SM as 27 GRT / 24 NRT
  • Craig's Sangaris, a SN has 31 GRT / 28 NRT
  • Ian on Ocean Hobo, a SN  reports 18+ "gross tons" and 15 1/4 "net tons"  (definitely not USCG format); plus 12.3M length, not the 14M actual. 
  • Olivier reports SM as 30.14 in France, 33.24 Gross / 23.25 "Register" in England
  • And the smallest boat of all is Jamie's Amel 54 at 23 GRT and 20 NRT
  •  


Re: Gross tonnage on SM

Craig Briggs
 
Edited

Here's what's been reported on this thread.
  • Denise on CARA, a SM, has 26GRT  /  23NRT
  • Eric on Kibelite, a SM  has 28 GRT / 25 NRT on his US Documentation but that was done by Amel (French numbers?)
  • Bill Rouse reports SM as 27 GRT / 24 NRT
  • Craig's Sangaris, a SN has 31 GRT / 28 NRT
  • Ian on Ocean Hobo, a SN  reports 18+ "gross tons" and 15 1/4 "net tons"  (definitely not USCG format); plus 12.3M length, not the 14M actual. 
  • Olivier reports SM as 30.14 in France, 33.24 Gross / 23.25 "Register" in England
  • And the smallest boat of all is Jamie's Amel 54 at 23 GRT and 20 NRT
So there you have it - in the Amel fleet, the biggest boat is the Santorin, the Super Maramu is somewhat smaller and the tiniest one of all is the Amel 54.
My only definite conclusion is that the government bureaucrats live by "garbage in - garbage out" with no concern for accuracy.  Frankly, in the recreational market the number really is of little consequence and it's good our tax dollars are not going toward trying to make this accurate. 
I do have to give it to Ian for saving on his dock fees with that short Santorin, although I have heard that fiberglass shrinks a lot when immersed in water.

Cheers around,
Craig Briggs SN68 Sangaris 


Re: Solar Panel Arches

Craig Briggs
 

That sounds great, José, that Atlantic will add stiffeners. And, yes, leg-out pre-tensioning is what I did and what Atlantic's instructions said - a ratchet-strap is needed to pull the legs together to get them into the preinstalled deck mounts, although that's a finicky process and a rubber mallet helps.
Good luck with it,
Craig SN68 Sangaris


Re: Solar Panel Arches

Jose Venegas
 

Thank you, James, Craig, and Ian for your thoughts.
James, nice to know that the Emek was only twice that of the Atlantic, I thught it was much more.  Also important to know that the wobbliness is an issue for both the Atlantic and the Emek arches that needs to be corrected by extra cables or struts  
James and Craig,
after several e-mails with the engineer of Atlantic discussing the direction of the pre-tension leg-in or leg-out, I concluded that the leg-out pretention should result in a stiffer and stronger structure than the leg-in pre-tension. This is both due to geometrical and structural considerations, too long to include here but that I would be happy to discuss offline.
So, at some extra cost, I have asked Atlantic to add lateral stiffness to the structure by reinforcing to the forward arch in the same way that they do for the aft arch.  That may not still be good enough and I may have to add a strut or cables to the structure.  It is not that I plan to carry my dingy on long passages but that I want to make the structure as strong as possible in case we are exposed to bad conditions.

Jose
Ipanema SM2K 278
Boston 
 


How to do almost anything #Wiki

 

All Group Members and Moderators,

We have added a Amel Yacht Owners Group Wiki which can hopefully answer any of your questions regarding how to use the new group and its tools.

When you are online at https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main you will notice "Wiki" in the left column at the bottom. Click on Wiki to discover what you can do. The Wiki  also includes a section for Moderators. Most of the content in this Wiki was provided by group.io, our host.

I hope this helps you.

--
 
Best,
 
Bill Rouse
Yacht School  
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970
 


Re: Earth bonding and watermaker

 

Arno,

Of course I do not know exactly the cause of the corrosion, but it may be saltwater caused corrosion and was not caused by a missing or poor bonding connection. 

I am not an electrical engineer. Let me attempt to give you a Bill Rouse explanation and answer to your question. Be sure to read all of the Electrical Warnings in your Amel 54 User and Owners manual (You may want to ask SAV at Amel, afterall, that is what they are there for):

Bonding Connections on your Amel 54 were designed to electrically connect devices in contact with water to the anodes on the rudder. There is micro voltage in this pathway and the least amount of corrosion between the bonding wire and the device will cause issues similar to no bonding connection. The metal where the yellow/green wire connects should be free of paint and very clean. The same thing for the bare end of the wire.

EARTH Connections on your Amel 54 are designed to protect you from electrical shock. These connections should cause either the Main breaker to open or the device breaker to open when a 220VAC load line connects to the yellow/green EARTH. An example would be your 220VAC dessalator pump motor has a EARTH connection. If possibly saltwater was spilled on the pump creating a connection between the 220VAC load line and EARTH, breakers will open cutting OFF the 220VAC load line to the electric motor. If in this example if the EARTH connection to the motor was broken, the possibility of electric shock will exist when you touch the motor or anything connected to the motor.

EARTH and Bonding are separate systems, but sometimes EARTH meets Bonding on your Amel 54. A good example of this is the original Calpeda A/C pump. It is connected to Bonding at the output pipe. The 220VAC EARTH is connected to the metal case inside the wiring box. And, of course, the metal case is connected to the output pipe, thus EARTH and Bonding are connected. I believe that the same thing is true on your Dessalator Duo.

I hope this explanation helps. 

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Thu, Mar 14, 2019 at 7:50 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Hi All,

I'm wondering about a thing after removing my Duo watermaker. I noticed quite some galvanic corrosion despite the fact that the green/yellow bonding wire was attached at several points to the watermaker.
I was actually just in time taking the thing apart as I'm still able to salvage all the important bits.
From traces I could see I'm guessing one of the endcaps on the pump has been leaking also given the amount of salt build-up at the chassis and pump-base.

What I'm wondering about is the bonding sytem. Is it also connected to the shore power earth lead? From earlier conversations I vaguely remember it was not connected.  If not then why is the earth connection of the 230 Volt pump connected to the mains earth?

Any advise appreciated.

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Sharki shaft alternator

marklesparkle59
 

That is brilliant,  thank you.



Sent from my Samsung device


Re: Amel Martinique Rally Update...ya'll come

 

Kent and Iris,

As it turns out almost nothing has changed...someone else was just added to the Rally, so the count remains the same.

I said almost nothing because I am sure that you and Iris will be missed by everyone.

The updated web page can be viewed here: Amel Caribbean Rally
 
Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Wed, Mar 13, 2019 at 10:56 PM karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill and all Caribbean Rally Amelians.

We are sorry to tell you that we have to go back home before the Rally and will not be able to attend.  We were really looking forward to meeting you all and seeing your beautiful Amels.

Alas, perhaps another time.

Bill, will our pulling out at the last minute like this cost anyone anything?  If so, we’d like to reimburse for what ever inconvenience it causes.

Regretfully,
Kent & Iris
Kristy
SM243





Re: Gross tonnage on SM

Denise McGovern
 

CARA is USCG Documented: 26 GRT, 23 NRT

Denise McGovern
s/v CARA
SM #440
Chesapeake Bay


Re: Gross tonnage on SM

eric freedman
 

Kimberlite is documented in the USA with 28 gross tonnage and 25 net tonnage.

That was provided by Amel when they had Kimberlite documented.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Craig Briggs via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2019 8:46 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Gross tonnage on SM

 

[Edited Message Follows]

Pat,
Here's a link to the US Coast Guard's Simplified Measurement Guide I mentioned.USCG Simplified Tonnage Guide
You can use this for vessels under 79 feet. As Olivier points out different countries have different methods.

You should work it out yourself, but, for your SM it would be ABOUT the following (I had to guess at a couple of numbers but you can fine tune it.
GRT = (Hull volume + Deckhouse Volume) / 100
Where Hull Volume = S x K x L x B x D and Deck Structure Volume = Ls x Ds x Bs 
L, B and D are overall length, breadth and depth, but depth is measured from the deck edge to the bottom of the keel.
You consider the Deck Volume to be 0 if it is less than the hull volume, which it is.
S is a Shape factor which is 0.5 for sailboats. K is a Keel factor which is 0.75 for our shape of sailboat.

So, let's use Richard Colebatch's posting for your SM dimensions. That is 52.49' in Length and  15.09' in Breath.
Richard shows a Water Draft of 6.73' from the bottom of the keel to the water line and let me guess another 6' of freeboard to the edge of the deck.
That would be a Depth of 11.73' (which seems about right as my Santorin's Depth is 10.5')

So the SM Gross Register Tons (GRT) would be (they say to round feet to the nearest tenth):
  S  x  K    x  L     x   B    x  D   
0.5 x 0.75 x 52.5 x 15.1 x 11.8  = 3507  / 100  = 35 GRT
Then, NRT = M x GRT, where M is a Machinery factor which is .9 for sailboats, so
NRT = .9 x 35 = 31  (you are instructed to truncate any fraction)

So, it does seem your numbers are, indeed, way high and should be more like a GRT of 35 and NRT of 31.

Bill Rouse's GRT 27, NRT 24 comes from his Documentation Certificate, I'm sure, but seems low as my Santorin is 31 and 28 and the USCG calculation above is pretty straightforward. Anyway, there are lot of other numbers in this thread that may have their origin in countries other than the US and/or may be weight based. Numbers that have fractions are definitely not US GRT/NRT, which are always whole numbers. Also, in the US the documentation is pretty much self reported with, seemingly, very little checking by the NVDOC. Whatever, your's seems high.

The US Coast Guard's National Vessel Documentation center has a super new website that it very easy to navigate and you may be able to change your numbers on-line. Check it out.

Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN68 with  GRT 31 NRT 28


Re: Sharki shaft alternator

marklesparkle59
 

Thank you Gerhard this is very interesting and useful information. I am compiling an inventory of my Sharki, do you think it is something all Sharki owners would contribute to and use? It could be invaluable for maintenance, replacing equipment and best practise tips. Do owners already have them? 
Incidentally Sea Hobo will welcome visitors from the EU and the rest of the world while we sort out our appalling attitudes on our forlorn little island.
Mark



Sent from my Samsung device


-------- Original message --------
From: "Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io" <carcode@...>
Date: 14/03/2019 12:45 (GMT+00:00)
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sharki shaft alternator

Mark
Coming back to your picture of the gearbox.
I have been searching now for my gearbox sticker but it was difficult to read because this sticker was at baboard side of the gearbox.
As far as I can see the manufacturer is "Hurth" and the type should be "HBW-20-3R". Type HBW-20 is for sure but the ratio (3R) is guessed only because so hard to read.
However it is the same gearbox you have. The oil type is ATF-A and the oil quantity should be 0.3 liters. On top of the gearbox is no ID plate but only the ATF-A sticker.
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Sharki shaft alternator

Dom
 

Hi, here is the sticker of my Sharki


Re: Sharki shaft alternator

marklesparkle59
 

Thanks Gerhard,
Little by little...
Mark



Sent from my Samsung device


-------- Original message --------
From: "Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io" <carcode@...>
Date: 14/03/2019 12:59 (GMT+00:00)
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sharki shaft alternator

Aras
I don't have a red light but only a green light at the panel for the shaft alternator.

I do have however a red light at the main panel for the second alternator of the engine and a red light for the first engine alternator at the engine panel.
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Sharki shaft alternator

Gerhard Mueller
 

Aras
I don't have a red light but only a green light at the panel for the shaft alternator.

I do have however a red light at the main panel for the second alternator of the engine and a red light for the first engine alternator at the engine panel.
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Discharge manifold repair/replacement

Mark McGovern
 
Edited

Paul,

sav@ amel dot fr is the email address to use when you want to order parts directly from Amel in La Rochelle.  The department is called "Service après-vente", managed by Thierry BILLARD and his assistant is Mrs. Maud TOUILLET.  Generally, Maud will answer your emails and her English is excellent.

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Earth bonding and watermaker

Arno Luijten
 

Hi All,

I'm wondering about a thing after removing my Duo watermaker. I noticed quite some galvanic corrosion despite the fact that the green/yellow bonding wire was attached at several points to the watermaker.
I was actually just in time taking the thing apart as I'm still able to salvage all the important bits.
From traces I could see I'm guessing one of the endcaps on the pump has been leaking also given the amount of salt build-up at the chassis and pump-base.

What I'm wondering about is the bonding sytem. Is it also connected to the shore power earth lead? From earlier conversations I vaguely remember it was not connected.  If not then why is the earth connection of the 230 Volt pump connected to the mains earth?

Any advise appreciated.

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121