Date   

Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

Gary Silver
 

James:

I have had a Spade anchor on Liahona (Amel SM 2000) for about 8 years;  I can't recall the size (weight) I bought but it is roughly the equivalent size of the SS CQG anchor the boat came new with.  It fits the bow roller well.  I will try and find a picture to post.  This Spade sets the first time every time everywhere I have been in the Caribbean.  The only time it drug was when I hooked an underwater cable and it slid along the cable. The original CQR anchor that came with the boat was pretty, never rusted etc but it was a nightmare to set in the same places.

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335
Puerto Rico
 


Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

Gary Silver
 

Colin and Lauren:

I know of several people who have had their chain done by Buzz Parlato of Lighthouse Marine in St. Thomas. Cell 340-334-3117, email lighthouse at islands dot vi.     Evidently you specify the chain you want, go bow in to a slip in Crown Bay Marina, at Charlotte Amalie,  they come on the dock with the chain, strip your old chain, load the new chain, and haul away your old chain.  Those I have heard from say it is seamless and easy.  Once I calculated the weight of 80 meters of 10 mm chain and it seems like it was something like 800 lbs. so doing the job myself is something I wasn't looking forward to.  I haven't used these folks personally but I think Joe Nance did. 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona 
Amel SM 2000 #335
Puerto Rico


Re: Sharki shaft alternator

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Mark,

the important thing is the clunk. My sign says no to forward, but as I said in my previous just to be contrary sometimes its clunk in forward, sometimes reverse. I don't think it has anything to do wit the prop. I have auto prop So I just go with the clunk.

Regards

Danny

On 12 March 2019 at 07:58 Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Danny,

 

The opposite is true on Cream Puff. There is a French sticker by the throttle that says to put the gear in forward when sailing and leave it there. We do not have a shaft break or alternator. We also start the engine (when the boat is moving forward) with it in gear per the sign. This seemed odd to me but Miles from Lady Bug has the same sticker and speaks fluent French.

 

We are fitted with an AutoProp and for some reason this makes a difference (and of cause the engine on Amel faces the wrong way – not sure if this also effects it). We are unable to stop the rotation of the shaft in reverse. It will still slowly turn. We hear the reassuring clunk in forward and the shaft will not move. I really do not know all the mechanics involved but just follow the sign.

 

This all obviously varies by vessel, engine, prop etc.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 2:39 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sharki shaft alternator

 

Hi.

The reason being that it locks in reverse but in forward the clutch plates are lightly engaged and the propeller turns slowly causing wear to the plates. Try it with the engine cover up when sailing with the shift in neutral and the prop will be spinning. Engage forward and it will slow, engage reverse and there is a satisfying clunk and it stops.

However mine for some reason not known sometimes stops in reverse, sometimes in forward so I always check for that satisfying clunk.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 12 March 2019 at 07:18 Ian <parkianj@...> wrote:


Miles
The Santorin has a Hurth gearbox. The instruction by the gear shift says not to put into forward gear whilst sailing. Must be a reason.

Ian

 



 


 


Re: Sharki shaft alternator

Mark Erdos
 

Danny,

 

The opposite is true on Cream Puff. There is a French sticker by the throttle that says to put the gear in forward when sailing and leave it there. We do not have a shaft break or alternator. We also start the engine (when the boat is moving forward) with it in gear per the sign. This seemed odd to me but Miles from Lady Bug has the same sticker and speaks fluent French.

 

We are fitted with an AutoProp and for some reason this makes a difference (and of cause the engine on Amel faces the wrong way – not sure if this also effects it). We are unable to stop the rotation of the shaft in reverse. It will still slowly turn. We hear the reassuring clunk in forward and the shaft will not move. I really do not know all the mechanics involved but just follow the sign.

 

This all obviously varies by vessel, engine, prop etc.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 2:39 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sharki shaft alternator

 

Hi.

The reason being that it locks in reverse but in forward the clutch plates are lightly engaged and the propeller turns slowly causing wear to the plates. Try it with the engine cover up when sailing with the shift in neutral and the prop will be spinning. Engage forward and it will slow, engage reverse and there is a satisfying clunk and it stops.

However mine for some reason not known sometimes stops in reverse, sometimes in forward so I always check for that satisfying clunk.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 12 March 2019 at 07:18 Ian <parkianj@...> wrote:


Miles
The Santorin has a Hurth gearbox. The instruction by the gear shift says not to put into forward gear whilst sailing. Must be a reason.

Ian


Re: Sharki shaft alternator

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi.

The reason being that it locks in reverse but in forward the clutch plates are lightly engaged and the propeller turns slowly causing wear to the plates. Try it with the engine cover up when sailing with the shift in neutral and the prop will be spinning. Engage forward and it will slow, engage reverse and there is a satisfying clunk and it stops.

However mine for some reason not known sometimes stops in reverse, sometimes in forward so I always check for that satisfying clunk.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 12 March 2019 at 07:18 Ian <parkianj@...> wrote:


Miles
The Santorin has a Hurth gearbox. The instruction by the gear shift says not to put into forward gear whilst sailing. Must be a reason.

Ian


Re: Sharki shaft alternator

Ian Park
 

Miles
The Santorin has a Hurth gearbox. The instruction by the gear shift says not to put into forward gear whilst sailing. Must be a reason.

Ian


Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

James

Apology, I cannot assist with the Maramu specific anchor fit question, but would say we have been very happy with our Rocna 40kg. Now more than half the way around the world, it has only ever dragged once in the Maldives on rock when we stopped briefly for an hour to refuel in Gan and did not put enough chain out, nor pull back on it.

If the Rocna 33 fits your bow that is what I would fit. We had one on our last boat (Island Packet 40) and it was perfect

On the question of length, I would agree that 100m instead of the standard 80m would be a good idea. We also want to upgrade to 100m or 110m x 10mm chain now before heading over the Pacific. I personally would not go down to 8mm.

Does anyone know of a good quality (Well priced!) chain supplier here in the Caribbean?? We are in BVI'S now, and headed to St Martin next before Bonaire and Panama..

Cheers
Colin & Lauren
SV Island Pearl II
Peter Island, BVI'S




On Sat, 9 Mar. 2019, 10:34 James Alton via Groups.Io, <lokiyawl2=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello Maramu owners,

   I am not at my boat currently so need some help.  Can Maramu owners suggest modern anchors that are known to fit the original Amel anchor rollers on the Maramu?  I would like to upgrade from the original Bugel anchor to something with a bit better holding.  The Mantus,  Spade and the Rocna are of interest to me.    I am concerned about the tendency of the anchor to strike the bow when being stowed and how well the anchor stows in the original Amel hardware.

   I am also planing to increase the chain length to at least 100 meters.  Has anyone switched to high strength (I believe it is grade 80?) 8mm chain to help keep the weight and the chain piles down as compared to the 10mm?  I am not concerned about not being able to regalvanize the chain which I understand can weaken the grade 80.

   Short term cruising will be Croatia and Greece.  Hope to be in the Pacific in 4-5 years and I seem to recall suggestions to consider even more than 100 meters of chain?   

Thanks for any insight and suggestions.

James

SV Sueno
Maramu #220



Re: Tunesia

Joerg Esdorn
 

This is very helpful advice, many thanks!  My conclusion is to go to Hammamet/Port Jasmine, rather than Gammarth or Sidi  Bou Said.  
Joerg


Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Thomas Kleman
 

Thanks to all for the words of wisdom I'm getting. Because I wasn't that careful with debris, the dust and wood chips combined with the mud already there to clog my anchor locker drain (entering through the permanent grating). While I was able to access the line to clear it out both from the T connection near the shower and the drain fitting inside the locker, getting the mud/other stuff out requires one to be inside the chain locker with some kind of vacuum poked through the grate, if it's really clogged. Which brings me to my question. I'm leaning towards an ingress hatch so I can get inside the chain locker. Just continually blowing the clog free with water/compressed air seems to be kicking the can down the road a bit. Thoughts ? Note- Since I achieved the age of 6, I lost the ability to pass through the bulkhead access door. I'm wondering if part of the reason my previous 5 year old chain became a ball of rust was incomplete drainage from the locker. I can't say I regularly emptied enough chain out of the locker to allow for a visual inspection. 


Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

James Alton
 

Greg,

   Thanks for your input.  I don’t have to order my anchor right away so I will look forward to hearing your report.   It seems from my research so far that the Mantus should be good in weed,  I hope so too.   The areas of the Med. that we have sailed so far  (Sardinia, Sicily,  Tunisia)  all had sandy areas that we could anchor in amongst the weed.  Do you think that there is more weed in the Med as you go further East?  Thanks for letting me know that the Spade is not working in the Med. weed.  It does not appear that the Spade will fit the Amel anchor hardware either so I think I will take that option off of the list.  We hope to be in Eastern Greece and perhaps Turkey next season, it would be great to hear about some of your travels,  perhaps we can chat some via email?

Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 10, 2019, at 11:12 PM, Gregory Shea <gmshea@...> wrote:

James,
I have a 20 kg Spade on my Sharki. Works great in sand, useless in (Med) weed. I am taking a 25 kg Mantus with me next month. I hope it can get through the weed because that would really open up Med anchorages. I used the template on the Mantus website to size it on the roller. It's a bit hokey but better than nothing.
Will report back but that may be too late for you.

Greg Shea
Sharki 133 Cap des iles
In eastern Greece for 2019

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...>
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 5:11:13 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Maramu anchor and chain suggestions
 
Michael,

  Thanks for sharing your experience with the Rocna and for the insight on the Chrome Duplex, I had never heard of it until your post.  From the research I have done to date it appears that the Rocna would be a big step up in holding from my original Buegel anchor and it is well proven.   The Mantus is an anchor of interest to me as well, mostly because it seems to be unusually reliable in resetting.   It can of course be hard to separate the hype from fact so I am still pondering…   I am concerned a bit about how light the shank is on the Mantus. 

  I am really hoping to hear from another Maramu owner that has used the Mantus to know for sure if it would even fit my boat before I make my final decision but I understand that this anchor has not been around all that long so maybe no one has tried it yet.  The side profile and angle of the plough portion of the anchor is very similar to the Rocna which looks encouraging.  The shank is longer in the sizes I am looking at but I think that there should be enough deck space.   I have seen the Mantus on a few Super Maramus and they appear to fit pretty well.  If anyone with a Super Maramu would like to comment on what they think of this anchor on their Amel I would sure appreciate the input.

Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 10, 2019, at 11:31 AM, amel@... wrote:

Hi James,

in my experience the Rocna has excellent holding power. I weathered the Medicane in Greece last October with this Anchor (45+ kn winds for several hours) and also used it on a couple of occasion with similar wind speeds.
It sets quite fast within 1-2 m of the drop point. It has some problems on weed, but so has nearly every other anchor.

Yes, I suggested that a stainless steel chain has a much better tendency to stow itself because it is more "slick". But as you pointed out, stainles steel is not stainless steel. While in cold waters like Northern Europe you may do ok with AISI 316 (1.4401) quality for a while (1.4571 would be better if you anchor often), in the Med and in tropical regions the only material you can use for any prolonged perios without corrosion problems is 1.4462 Chrome Duplex.
Unfortunately it has a price tag 4 times the one of galvanized steel - which did keep me away from it so far ;)




Re: Sharki shaft alternator

smiles bernard
 

Interesting thread !

I have been using the shaft alternator lots over the last 8 months. 

My Hurth gearbox manual seems to suggest that it should be left to idle (regardless of the Amel propshaft alternator) but I assume this is very gearbox specific. So I run my gearbox in neutral even without the alternator ‘on’

Does anyone known if idle in reverse or idle with the gearbox lever fwd makes a difference? Or is idle just idle - if you don’t have a MaxProp that is?

When coming out of idle I try and slow the boat down 1st to reduce gearbox forces as it moves into gear. 



All the best
Miles
Maramu 162



On 10 Mar 2019, at 21:39, amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:

Hi Olivier 
Thanks for the information 
Will give it a try with this good Caribbean wind 
Tom Deasy 
S/Y Aphrodite 
Maramu # 125


On Mar 10, 2019, at 8:36 PM, Warren Traill <trailz@...> wrote:

Interesting information Olivier. I have another question. My propeller is fixed. And I have no shaft a;ternator.

When I am sailing the shaft continues to rotate.

Is it good practise to engage reverse to stop the shaft rotating if I wish. Or is there some potential for damage?

Thanks,

Warren

Manon2

Sharki #15

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Beaute Olivier via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, 10 March 2019 10:51 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sharki shaft alternator

 

Hello Tom,

 

the prop shaft alternator can work with a MAXPROP. It is a bit tricky, but you should try this:

-while sailing (above 4 knots), start the engine and engage reverse idling

-while your engine is reversing, turn ON the key switch of your alternator

-then set the engine to neutral and stop it

Your MAXPROP should keep the reverse position unless:

a) your batteries are charged enough and the alternator will not oppose much power to the prop, therefore the prop will spin faster and will finally open and the shaft will stop

b) your boat speed is high (while surfing) and the prop will spin faster and will open

 

Good luck.

 

Olivier

 

 

On Friday, March 8, 2019, 7:24:20 PM GMT+1, amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:

 

 

Hello 

Does anyone in the group use a Max Prop with the shaft alternator I have read that it does work any tricks?

Tom Deasy 

Maramu 125


On Mar 8, 2019, at 8:10 AM, marklesparkle59 <marklesparkle59@...> wrote:

Thanks Ian. I am struggling to get to grips with the electrical system. The engine/starboard alternator is charging but not sure about the domestic/port alternator and I dont really understand the data my shiney new clamp meter is giving me. I need to read a book I think.

Mark

 

 

 

Sent from my Samsung device



-------- Original message --------
From: Ian <parkianj@...>
Date: 08/03/2019 11:52 (GMT+00:00)
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sharki shaft alternator

Mark
On my Santorin you have to put the key in and switch on (next to your ameter). The green light comes on. It sends a current to the alternator to excite it and start it charging. You should turn off when finished using it and put your gear lever in reverse to stop the alternator charging before switching on the engine.
I believe the diodes in each of the engine and alternator should prevent any ‘issues’, but that is the prescribed Amel method.
My knowledge of electrics is limited - someone with a better understanding may chip in here.
The Santorin prop shaft pulley is quite a bit bigger too, so will turn the alternator faster. There is a significant drop in prop shaft speed as soon as you turn the alternator on.

Ian



Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

Gregory Shea
 

James,
I have a 20 kg Spade on my Sharki. Works great in sand, useless in (Med) weed. I am taking a 25 kg Mantus with me next month. I hope it can get through the weed because that would really open up Med anchorages. I used the template on the Mantus website to size it on the roller. It's a bit hokey but better than nothing.
Will report back but that may be too late for you.

Greg Shea
Sharki 133 Cap des iles
In eastern Greece for 2019


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...>
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 5:11:13 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Maramu anchor and chain suggestions
 
Michael,

  Thanks for sharing your experience with the Rocna and for the insight on the Chrome Duplex, I had never heard of it until your post.  From the research I have done to date it appears that the Rocna would be a big step up in holding from my original Buegel anchor and it is well proven.   The Mantus is an anchor of interest to me as well, mostly because it seems to be unusually reliable in resetting.   It can of course be hard to separate the hype from fact so I am still pondering…   I am concerned a bit about how light the shank is on the Mantus. 

  I am really hoping to hear from another Maramu owner that has used the Mantus to know for sure if it would even fit my boat before I make my final decision but I understand that this anchor has not been around all that long so maybe no one has tried it yet.  The side profile and angle of the plough portion of the anchor is very similar to the Rocna which looks encouraging.  The shank is longer in the sizes I am looking at but I think that there should be enough deck space.   I have seen the Mantus on a few Super Maramus and they appear to fit pretty well.  If anyone with a Super Maramu would like to comment on what they think of this anchor on their Amel I would sure appreciate the input.

Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 10, 2019, at 11:31 AM, amel@... wrote:

Hi James,

in my experience the Rocna has excellent holding power. I weathered the Medicane in Greece last October with this Anchor (45+ kn winds for several hours) and also used it on a couple of occasion with similar wind speeds.
It sets quite fast within 1-2 m of the drop point. It has some problems on weed, but so has nearly every other anchor.

Yes, I suggested that a stainless steel chain has a much better tendency to stow itself because it is more "slick". But as you pointed out, stainles steel is not stainless steel. While in cold waters like Northern Europe you may do ok with AISI 316 (1.4401) quality for a while (1.4571 would be better if you anchor often), in the Med and in tropical regions the only material you can use for any prolonged perios without corrosion problems is 1.4462 Chrome Duplex.
Unfortunately it has a price tag 4 times the one of galvanized steel - which did keep me away from it so far ;)



Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

Craig Briggs
 

James,
Can't comment on the fit of the Mantus on a Maramu - I have one on my Santorin and it's been great. Mantus has a schematic of their anchors on their website - I down loaded that and did a mock-up with cardboard to be sure it would fit the bow roller. It is fine and has about 1" of gap between the tip of the fluke and the stem - it has never hit the fiberglass while being raised.
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris


Re: Sharki shaft alternator

amel46met
 

Hi Olivier 
Thanks for the information 
Will give it a try with this good Caribbean wind 
Tom Deasy 
S/Y Aphrodite 
Maramu # 125


On Mar 10, 2019, at 8:36 PM, Warren Traill <trailz@...> wrote:

Interesting information Olivier. I have another question. My propeller is fixed. And I have no shaft a;ternator.

When I am sailing the shaft continues to rotate.

Is it good practise to engage reverse to stop the shaft rotating if I wish. Or is there some potential for damage?

Thanks,

Warren

Manon2

Sharki #15

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Beaute Olivier via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, 10 March 2019 10:51 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sharki shaft alternator

 

Hello Tom,

 

the prop shaft alternator can work with a MAXPROP. It is a bit tricky, but you should try this:

-while sailing (above 4 knots), start the engine and engage reverse idling

-while your engine is reversing, turn ON the key switch of your alternator

-then set the engine to neutral and stop it

Your MAXPROP should keep the reverse position unless:

a) your batteries are charged enough and the alternator will not oppose much power to the prop, therefore the prop will spin faster and will finally open and the shaft will stop

b) your boat speed is high (while surfing) and the prop will spin faster and will open

 

Good luck.

 

Olivier

 

 

On Friday, March 8, 2019, 7:24:20 PM GMT+1, amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:

 

 

Hello 

Does anyone in the group use a Max Prop with the shaft alternator I have read that it does work any tricks?

Tom Deasy 

Maramu 125


On Mar 8, 2019, at 8:10 AM, marklesparkle59 <marklesparkle59@...> wrote:

Thanks Ian. I am struggling to get to grips with the electrical system. The engine/starboard alternator is charging but not sure about the domestic/port alternator and I dont really understand the data my shiney new clamp meter is giving me. I need to read a book I think.

Mark

 

 

 

Sent from my Samsung device



-------- Original message --------
From: Ian <parkianj@...>
Date: 08/03/2019 11:52 (GMT+00:00)
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sharki shaft alternator

Mark
On my Santorin you have to put the key in and switch on (next to your ameter). The green light comes on. It sends a current to the alternator to excite it and start it charging. You should turn off when finished using it and put your gear lever in reverse to stop the alternator charging before switching on the engine.
I believe the diodes in each of the engine and alternator should prevent any ‘issues’, but that is the prescribed Amel method.
My knowledge of electrics is limited - someone with a better understanding may chip in here.
The Santorin prop shaft pulley is quite a bit bigger too, so will turn the alternator faster. There is a significant drop in prop shaft speed as soon as you turn the alternator on.

Ian



Re: Tunesia

James Alton
 

Gary,

   All of the Tunisian officials that checked us into the country in Bizerte were super nice and respectful to us, both during the process and afterwards when we met them on later at the marina.  No drawers were opened at all they simply asked us some questions.  Now the boat that was docked right next to us had a very different experience from the same officials and had been asked for a gift.  They were very offended and were very vocal about their dissatisfaction and left at first light the next day into half of a gale.  From what I gathered in talking to the officials (In Bizerte they live right next to the marina) , there are a lot of boats that sail to Tunisia to check in for one day to reset their Schengen clock and are not there to spend any money.  Right or wrong this seems to grate on the nerves of some (remember these people don’t have much) Tunisians which feel that they are being used as a means to lower the rich mans tax bill at no benefit to their country.  I knew about the possibility that I might be asked for a gift and so long as it was not out of line I was prepared to pay it.  I think that we may have been treated differently than the neighbouring boat because when the officials asked us if we would be leaving soon we told them that no we wanted to see their country and asked for suggestions on where to go and what to see and ended up with a lot of good ideas.  We found pretty much anything that we needed in Bizerte and met some amazing people.

    Really sorry that you had such a bad experience with the Customs in Tunisia since you otherwise might have had a great time there.   And yes I agree that it is wrong that officials would ever ask for a “gift” and especially to harass you in anyway to extract the gift from you.  For myself I just saw this as a risk and a potential cost of going there so was prepared to not be offended,  I mean in when I think about how much it cost for me to buy, prepare and sail my boat there, a few extra dollars to ruin the experience did not seem to make sense.  

 We felt that the country is a pretty amazing place, safe and there is a lot to see.  We plan to go back if we get the chance.  

All the best and I hope that you enjoy your future cruising,

James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Mar 10, 2019, at 7:09 PM, Gary Wells <gary@...> wrote:

I can only report on Marina Gammarth. 
I was there in Sept., 2018 for a few days.
The marina facilities are nice, but the complex is basically deserted. While there are many shop-front spaces available, they are all empty save one small service shop and an ATM.  No provisions available and a cab ride is required to go shopping.
.
I also had an extremely distasteful experience with the Customs officers there. The Immigration office was fine, but Customs officer came aboard and systematically began emptying drawers and cupboards onto the bed and setees. They questioned the sources and purposes of my wife's jewelery, our U.S. emergency money and our prescriptions. Each item was ceremoniously inspected (some were phone-photographed) 
It got bad, so I finally asked "What do I need to do?" and I received "Well, perhaps a gift." as a reply.

I was under the impression that Government officials had stopped playing that game but it is apparently not so in Gammarth. 
I was very disappointed and cannot recommend the marina for that reason alone.

Gary W. 
SM 209, Adagio
BVI/USVI


Re: Sharki shaft alternator

Warren Traill
 

Interesting information Olivier. I have another question. My propeller is fixed. And I have no shaft a;ternator.

When I am sailing the shaft continues to rotate.

Is it good practise to engage reverse to stop the shaft rotating if I wish. Or is there some potential for damage?

Thanks,

Warren

Manon2

Sharki #15

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Beaute Olivier via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, 10 March 2019 10:51 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sharki shaft alternator

 

Hello Tom,

 

the prop shaft alternator can work with a MAXPROP. It is a bit tricky, but you should try this:

-while sailing (above 4 knots), start the engine and engage reverse idling

-while your engine is reversing, turn ON the key switch of your alternator

-then set the engine to neutral and stop it

Your MAXPROP should keep the reverse position unless:

a) your batteries are charged enough and the alternator will not oppose much power to the prop, therefore the prop will spin faster and will finally open and the shaft will stop

b) your boat speed is high (while surfing) and the prop will spin faster and will open

 

Good luck.

 

Olivier

 

 

On Friday, March 8, 2019, 7:24:20 PM GMT+1, amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:

 

 

Hello 

Does anyone in the group use a Max Prop with the shaft alternator I have read that it does work any tricks?

Tom Deasy 

Maramu 125


On Mar 8, 2019, at 8:10 AM, marklesparkle59 <marklesparkle59@...> wrote:

Thanks Ian. I am struggling to get to grips with the electrical system. The engine/starboard alternator is charging but not sure about the domestic/port alternator and I dont really understand the data my shiney new clamp meter is giving me. I need to read a book I think.

Mark

 

 

 

Sent from my Samsung device



-------- Original message --------
From: Ian <parkianj@...>
Date: 08/03/2019 11:52 (GMT+00:00)
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sharki shaft alternator

Mark
On my Santorin you have to put the key in and switch on (next to your ameter). The green light comes on. It sends a current to the alternator to excite it and start it charging. You should turn off when finished using it and put your gear lever in reverse to stop the alternator charging before switching on the engine.
I believe the diodes in each of the engine and alternator should prevent any ‘issues’, but that is the prescribed Amel method.
My knowledge of electrics is limited - someone with a better understanding may chip in here.
The Santorin prop shaft pulley is quite a bit bigger too, so will turn the alternator faster. There is a significant drop in prop shaft speed as soon as you turn the alternator on.

Ian



Re: Faux Teak and Deck Paint

amelforme
 

Mark, density was never considered. If you never have laminated fiberglass, it is not intuitive to consider the process. Vela and I are on the way to Puerto Rico. When I get a moment, I will draw you a feeble cross section which shows layer by layer. Might be helpful to imagine that the deck mold is upside down until the deck is removed and joined by six laminates around the entire perimeter to the hull that is still in its mold.
Cindy probably has this figured out and is just being kind....

Keep Smiling ! 
Joël

JOEL F. POTTER
CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
Office 954-462-5869 

On Mar 10, 2019, at 5:02 PM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Joel,

 

You can call me dense, but I still do not understand if the dark brown gel-coat was added to the mold as a first step or done after the deck was removed from the mold as a last step?

 

Cindy says, hi.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of amelforme
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 3:00 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Faux Teak and Deck Paint

 

Hi Mark and Cindy. I saw this process in action many times over the years. The “grooves” between the faux teak planks are recessed on the finished deck. On the mold they are quite proud of the planking. The dark brown of the “ grooves “ are the first thing to be done well before the brown of the deck is applied over. This dark  brown gel coat, I was told, had a wax component that surfaced and supplied a barrier against the atmosphere for proper curing. The brown gel coat of the decking was applied on top of the grooves/very dark brown gel coat.

 

I might add that the gals doing this process were very skilled and experienced at this process. They also had incredible focus and would not respond to conversation while doing this.

 

Having restored the plank separating gel coat with gel coat by brush and also the paint method by the striping tool, you will achieve better cosmetic results with the striping tool, especially the first few times you do it until you acquire some skills.

 

Hope this is helpful.

 

All The Best, Joel   

 

          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mark Erdos
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 11:56 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Faux Teak and Deck Paint

 

James,

 

I feel very enlighten. Thank you. However, a question still nags me. If the deck stripes were applied by the French ladies of Amel, did they do it in the mold so the underside of the deck stripes were exposed to air, or did they paint the stripes once the decks were removed from the mold? If it is the latter, then the products and technique used by Amel seems like it would be the option to go with.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 12:16 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Faux Teak and Deck Paint

 

Mark,

 

   That is not a stupid question, in fact it is a great one!  It is certainly possible to recoat gelcoat with new gelcoat.  In general however it is important to understand that the gelcoat used for boatbuilding are “air inhibited cure”.  This means that the exposure to air prevents a full cure so the surface remains soft and tacky.  This is a benefit when boatbuilding since this increases the bond between the gel coat and the layers of fibreglass being added.  The gelcoat against the mold itself cures nice and hard since air is excluded. So there are additives that can be used with regular gelcoat or coatings that can applied allow the gelcoat to fully cure.  One is simply a wax additive which floats to the surface and helps exclude the air, another option is to spray the fresh gelcoat with PVA which is poly vinyl acetate, it just forms a film over the gelcoat to exclude the air. You can just wash the PVA off with water later after the gel coat is fully cured. There are also some specialty additives that you can purchase from major suppliers of polyester resins, some of which work well when patching gelcoat.  So you want to use one of these options to help your gelcoat cure properly on the surface if you are using regular boat building type gel coat.  There are also non air inhibited gel coats and I have used one called Simtec Prestec which can be tinted to any colour.  The material cures hard as glass without any additives but for some reason the UV resistance is inferior. I have never looked into the reason but there could be other non air inhibited gel coats that have better UV resistance.  New gelcoat will bond pretty well to old gel coat if you really roughen up the surface and do not have any contaminants on the surface.  60-80 grit would not be too coarse.  I am absolutely sure that if done correctly that gel coat will outlast any one part paint and possibly even the two part paints.  Unfortunately gel coat is not too easy to brush on.   So you have to apply it smoothly since It does not self level like paints do..  Adding some styrene thinner can help with brushing some but mostly you need to apply it as smooth as possible via your technique.  The good thing with the gel coat is that if you have thick or uneven spots you can come back and sand and polish out those areas but what a lot of work that would be if you had a lot of them!  So yes, this is actually an excellent idea IMO.

 

Best,

 

James

SV Sueno

Maramu #220

 

On Mar 10, 2019, at 10:50 AM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

 

I feel the need to ask a stupid question.

 

If the original deck striping was done with tinted gel-coat and brushed by hand, then why does nobody use this option to recondition the deck stripes. After all, the gel-coat applied by the French ladies of Amel lasted a very long time. Having never really done much work with gel-coat other than the occasional patch, I don’t really understand why this would be a non-option. If someone could enlighten me, that would be appreciated. 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

 

 


Re: Tunesia

Gary Wells
 

I can only report on Marina Gammarth. 
I was there in Sept., 2018 for a few days.
The marina facilities are nice, but the complex is basically deserted. While there are many shop-front spaces available, they are all empty save one small service shop and an ATM.  No provisions available and a cab ride is required to go shopping.
.
I also had an extremely distasteful experience with the Customs officers there. The Immigration office was fine, but Customs officer came aboard and systematically began emptying drawers and cupboards onto the bed and setees. They questioned the sources and purposes of my wife's jewelery, our U.S. emergency money and our prescriptions. Each item was ceremoniously inspected (some were phone-photographed) 
It got bad, so I finally asked "What do I need to do?" and I received "Well, perhaps a gift." as a reply.

I was under the impression that Government officials had stopped playing that game but it is apparently not so in Gammarth. 
I was very disappointed and cannot recommend the marina for that reason alone.

Gary W. 
SM 209, Adagio
BVI/USVI


Re: Faux Teak and Deck Paint

Mark Erdos
 

Joel,

 

You can call me dense, but I still do not understand if the dark brown gel-coat was added to the mold as a first step or done after the deck was removed from the mold as a last step?

 

Cindy says, hi.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of amelforme
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 3:00 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Faux Teak and Deck Paint

 

Hi Mark and Cindy. I saw this process in action many times over the years. The “grooves” between the faux teak planks are recessed on the finished deck. On the mold they are quite proud of the planking. The dark brown of the “ grooves “ are the first thing to be done well before the brown of the deck is applied over. This dark  brown gel coat, I was told, had a wax component that surfaced and supplied a barrier against the atmosphere for proper curing. The brown gel coat of the decking was applied on top of the grooves/very dark brown gel coat.

 

I might add that the gals doing this process were very skilled and experienced at this process. They also had incredible focus and would not respond to conversation while doing this.

 

Having restored the plank separating gel coat with gel coat by brush and also the paint method by the striping tool, you will achieve better cosmetic results with the striping tool, especially the first few times you do it until you acquire some skills.

 

Hope this is helpful.

 

All The Best, Joel   

 

          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mark Erdos
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 11:56 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Faux Teak and Deck Paint

 

James,

 

I feel very enlighten. Thank you. However, a question still nags me. If the deck stripes were applied by the French ladies of Amel, did they do it in the mold so the underside of the deck stripes were exposed to air, or did they paint the stripes once the decks were removed from the mold? If it is the latter, then the products and technique used by Amel seems like it would be the option to go with.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 12:16 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Faux Teak and Deck Paint

 

Mark,

 

   That is not a stupid question, in fact it is a great one!  It is certainly possible to recoat gelcoat with new gelcoat.  In general however it is important to understand that the gelcoat used for boatbuilding are “air inhibited cure”.  This means that the exposure to air prevents a full cure so the surface remains soft and tacky.  This is a benefit when boatbuilding since this increases the bond between the gel coat and the layers of fibreglass being added.  The gelcoat against the mold itself cures nice and hard since air is excluded. So there are additives that can be used with regular gelcoat or coatings that can applied allow the gelcoat to fully cure.  One is simply a wax additive which floats to the surface and helps exclude the air, another option is to spray the fresh gelcoat with PVA which is poly vinyl acetate, it just forms a film over the gelcoat to exclude the air. You can just wash the PVA off with water later after the gel coat is fully cured. There are also some specialty additives that you can purchase from major suppliers of polyester resins, some of which work well when patching gelcoat.  So you want to use one of these options to help your gelcoat cure properly on the surface if you are using regular boat building type gel coat.  There are also non air inhibited gel coats and I have used one called Simtec Prestec which can be tinted to any colour.  The material cures hard as glass without any additives but for some reason the UV resistance is inferior. I have never looked into the reason but there could be other non air inhibited gel coats that have better UV resistance.  New gelcoat will bond pretty well to old gel coat if you really roughen up the surface and do not have any contaminants on the surface.  60-80 grit would not be too coarse.  I am absolutely sure that if done correctly that gel coat will outlast any one part paint and possibly even the two part paints.  Unfortunately gel coat is not too easy to brush on.   So you have to apply it smoothly since It does not self level like paints do..  Adding some styrene thinner can help with brushing some but mostly you need to apply it as smooth as possible via your technique.  The good thing with the gel coat is that if you have thick or uneven spots you can come back and sand and polish out those areas but what a lot of work that would be if you had a lot of them!  So yes, this is actually an excellent idea IMO.

 

Best,

 

James

SV Sueno

Maramu #220

 

On Mar 10, 2019, at 10:50 AM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

 

I feel the need to ask a stupid question.

 

If the original deck striping was done with tinted gel-coat and brushed by hand, then why does nobody use this option to recondition the deck stripes. After all, the gel-coat applied by the French ladies of Amel lasted a very long time. Having never really done much work with gel-coat other than the occasional patch, I don’t really understand why this would be a non-option. If someone could enlighten me, that would be appreciated. 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

 

 


Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions

amelforme
 

Further recollection recalls the fact that the girls used rather hard rollers instead of brushes. If you think about the configuration, a drip or mistake was pretty easy to correct soon after the fact. With the rollers,proper gel coat loading and perfect pressure
application were essential.
JOEL F. POTTER
CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
Office 954-462-5869 

On Mar 10, 2019, at 5:11 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Michael,

  Thanks for sharing your experience with the Rocna and for the insight on the Chrome Duplex, I had never heard of it until your post.  From the research I have done to date it appears that the Rocna would be a big step up in holding from my original Buegel anchor and it is well proven.   The Mantus is an anchor of interest to me as well, mostly because it seems to be unusually reliable in resetting.   It can of course be hard to separate the hype from fact so I am still pondering…   I am concerned a bit about how light the shank is on the Mantus. 

  I am really hoping to hear from another Maramu owner that has used the Mantus to know for sure if it would even fit my boat before I make my final decision but I understand that this anchor has not been around all that long so maybe no one has tried it yet.  The side profile and angle of the plough portion of the anchor is very similar to the Rocna which looks encouraging.  The shank is longer in the sizes I am looking at but I think that there should be enough deck space.   I have seen the Mantus on a few Super Maramus and they appear to fit pretty well.  If anyone with a Super Maramu would like to comment on what they think of this anchor on their Amel I would sure appreciate the input.

Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 10, 2019, at 11:31 AM, amel@... wrote:

Hi James,

in my experience the Rocna has excellent holding power. I weathered the Medicane in Greece last October with this Anchor (45+ kn winds for several hours) and also used it on a couple of occasion with similar wind speeds.
It sets quite fast within 1-2 m of the drop point. It has some problems on weed, but so has nearly every other anchor.

Yes, I suggested that a stainless steel chain has a much better tendency to stow itself because it is more "slick". But as you pointed out, stainles steel is not stainless steel. While in cold waters like Northern Europe you may do ok with AISI 316 (1.4401) quality for a while (1.4571 would be better if you anchor often), in the Med and in tropical regions the only material you can use for any prolonged perios without corrosion problems is 1.4462 Chrome Duplex.
Unfortunately it has a price tag 4 times the one of galvanized steel - which did keep me away from it so far ;)