Date   

Re: Prop shaft bearing

Steve Leeds
 

You may want to check your shaft alignment.

Steve Leeds
Yacht MACCABEE
Sharki #121

On Friday, March 1, 2019, 6:06:47 AM EST, Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io <thelastoneever@...> wrote:


Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum





Re: Prop shaft bearing

Steve Leeds
 

HI Rainer,
I've changed my cutlass bearing many times in the past (the previous owner was using a 1 3/8" cutlass bearing when he should have used 35mm!  I did the same for several years until I changed the shaft to 1 3/8".  I think I've only changed it once since then.  I have 6800 hours on the original Perkins).  My cutlass bearing extends back from the boat enough to be able to "grab" it with a puller with the shaft still in place.  After removing the propeller, first remove the set screws, drill dimples in the cutlass bearing for the puller to hold onto and pull it out.  I have a custom puller the previous owner of my boat made up from a steel plumbing pipe that just fit over the cutlass bearing.  I'll try to remember to take a photo of it on my next visit to MACCABEE.

To remove the shaft, you must lift the engine high enough to bring the shaft under the engine.  Other than the coupling, You probably don't need to disconnect anything else from the engine.  I lay a 6" x 6" wood beam across the seats on each side of the engine compartment, with a piece of 2" x 6" board under each end of the 6 x 6 to spread the load and use a chain lift chained to the 6 x 6 to raise the engine.  I may have removed the engine cover for clearance -- I can't remember.  I have only done it once in the mid 90's.

Regards,
Steve Leeds
Yacht MACCABEE
Sharki #121

On Friday, March 1, 2019, 8:28:02 AM EST, Warren Traill <trailz@...> wrote:


Hi Rainer. Although I haven’t replace my cutlass bearing yet, my understanding is that you remove the propeller, undo the alum key on the shaft and pull off the cutlass bearing.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Warren
Manon2
Sharki #15

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, 1 March 2019 7:07 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Prop shaft bearing

Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum









Re: Prop shaft bearing

Rainer Huthmacher
 

Thank you gentlemen....

On 1. Mar 2019, at 15:43, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

On the Sharki, you must undo the motor mounts and lift the engine up about 20"/inches 50 cm in order to remove the propeller shaft as it is too long to fit as it hits the rudder skeg. It is an easy 6 hour job if nothing is badly rusted.

To remove the prop shaft/cutless bearing, remove the propeller, un-tighten the bolt holding the bearing in place on the side of the stern tube and use a pipe wrench or a chain wrench to rotate the cutless out. Easy one hour job.

 

All The Best, Joel

 

                       JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 6:07 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Prop shaft bearing

 

Hello Captains of Amels,

I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...

How do I pull the propshaft?

Do I really have to lift the engine?

Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....

Rainer Huthmacher

Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...

It feels good to back in this great forum

 

 

 

 


Re: CAT pump mechanics needed in FLA

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

A friend recommended Watermakers, Inc, website is www.watermakers.com in Ft. Lauderdale 954-937-2415.  They would be good for general repairs i.e. the Cat Pump, membrane replacement, etc. however, they are not specifically familiar with the Dessalator.

Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: Window reveals refurb?

amelforme
 

All good advice James. No wonder you got an Amel after 40 years of varnishing wooden yachts. Loki’s are a treat for the eyes and deserve varnish. I can relate as the last big boat I owned with my brother before my first Amel was a Cheoy Lee Rhodes Reliant/Offshore 40 with about ten acres of varnish. That boat only leaked when it got wet…

 

Another negative thing about using a base coat of epoxy is that epoxy is much harder/stiffer/more brittle than most oil based varnish. Dropping a winch handle or the like usually results in the epoxy un-attaching itself from the wood. Also, where it gets really cold, I have seen all the epoxy base coat fracture which at best is unsightly and at worse means stripping it all to bare wood.

You need tactical nuclear weapons to get epoxy off teak.

 

          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 9:37 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Window reveals refurb?

 

My wife and I have restored and refinished wooden boats with lots of varnish over the past 40+ years.  We have removed a lot of varnish  was applied over epoxy by someone else.  If your base coat fails, any finish applied on top also fails no matter how many coats of varnish you apply.  The failure of the epoxy base coating starts by going milkly/opaque  looking so even if the varnish is not peeling it begins to look bad enough that it should be stripped.  My advice would be to never use epoxy under a clear finish since it does poorly with UV as compared a high quality marine varnish such as Epifanes.   The longest lasting varnish that we found is the Epifanes though there could be others the we have not tried.  The most critical part of a long lasting varnish job are the initial base coats.  Cut your first coat 50% with thinner, the second 25% to get good penetration into the wood for the best bond.  Varnish in good conditions so that the varnish cures properly, don’t rush the overcoating.  Finally, always add your maintenance coats before the varnish looks like it needs it. Once the crazing starts, you have waited too long and the varnish will never look as nice or hold up as well.  We stripped the exterior mahogany on our 1953 Loki Yawl in 1999 and refinished with Epifanes.  The varnish has been recoated with two coats per season when the boat was North in Maine and Nova Scotia and 2-3 times per year when used in the tropics.  The varnish work on the boat still looked amazing in 2018 when we sold the boat.  Best of luck. 

 

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

 

On Mar 1, 2019, at 7:17 AM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:

 

Thanks very much guys

 

Yes I’ve been wondering whether to epoxy 1st or just the simpler direct varnish approach 

 

 

All the very best


On 1 Mar 2019, at 06:45, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
-- 
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece

 


Re: Prop shaft bearing

amelforme
 

On the Sharki, you must undo the motor mounts and lift the engine up about 20"/inches 50 cm in order to remove the propeller shaft as it is too long to fit as it hits the rudder skeg. It is an easy 6 hour job if nothing is badly rusted.

To remove the prop shaft/cutless bearing, remove the propeller, un-tighten the bolt holding the bearing in place on the side of the stern tube and use a pipe wrench or a chain wrench to rotate the cutless out. Easy one hour job.

 

All The Best, Joel

 

                       JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 6:07 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Prop shaft bearing

 

Hello Captains of Amels,

I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...

How do I pull the propshaft?

Do I really have to lift the engine?

Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....

Rainer Huthmacher

Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...

It feels good to back in this great forum

 

 

 

 


Re: Window reveals refurb?

James Alton
 

My wife and I have restored and refinished wooden boats with lots of varnish over the past 40+ years.  We have removed a lot of varnish  was applied over epoxy by someone else.  If your base coat fails, any finish applied on top also fails no matter how many coats of varnish you apply.  The failure of the epoxy base coating starts by going milkly/opaque  looking so even if the varnish is not peeling it begins to look bad enough that it should be stripped.  My advice would be to never use epoxy under a clear finish since it does poorly with UV as compared a high quality marine varnish such as Epifanes.   The longest lasting varnish that we found is the Epifanes though there could be others the we have not tried.  The most critical part of a long lasting varnish job are the initial base coats.  Cut your first coat 50% with thinner, the second 25% to get good penetration into the wood for the best bond.  Varnish in good conditions so that the varnish cures properly, don’t rush the overcoating.  Finally, always add your maintenance coats before the varnish looks like it needs it. Once the crazing starts, you have waited too long and the varnish will never look as nice or hold up as well.  We stripped the exterior mahogany on our 1953 Loki Yawl in 1999 and refinished with Epifanes.  The varnish has been recoated with two coats per season when the boat was North in Maine and Nova Scotia and 2-3 times per year when used in the tropics.  The varnish work on the boat still looked amazing in 2018 when we sold the boat.  Best of luck. 

James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 7:17 AM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:

Thanks very much guys

Yes I’ve been wondering whether to epoxy 1st or just the simpler direct varnish approach 


All the very best


On 1 Mar 2019, at 06:45, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
-- 
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Prop shaft bearing

Warren Traill
 

Hi Rainer. Although I haven’t replace my cutlass bearing yet, my understanding is that you remove the propeller, undo the alum key on the shaft and pull off the cutlass bearing.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Warren
Manon2
Sharki #15

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, 1 March 2019 7:07 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Prop shaft bearing

Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum


Re: Window reveals refurb?

smiles bernard
 

Thanks very much guys

Yes I’ve been wondering whether to epoxy 1st or just the simpler direct varnish approach 


All the very best


On 1 Mar 2019, at 06:45, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Prop shaft bearing

Rainer Huthmacher
 

Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum


Re: Window reveals refurb?

Gerhard Mueller
 

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece


Re: Window reveals refurb?

Mark Erdos
 

Miles,

On our previous boat, a Cheoy Lee, we had a lot of teak. The best thing I found was to strip the wood down and apply West System epoxy, then a few coats of varnish with UV protection. This works well and will last about 4-5 year before needing to be recoated again with varnish (no need to do the epoxy again).

Hpe this helps.


With best regards,

Mark

Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia
www.creampuff.us

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of smiles bernard via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2019 7:47 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Window reveals refurb?


Hello

Does anyone have any tips or tricks for repair of the window reveals ?

By this I mean the exposed ply edging around the inside of the windows - photo attached

I’m not sure if the SMS have this same design but on my Maramu these ply edges get a lot is sun and in places the facing veneer is starting to delaminate.

Just sand and varnish as best possible or does anyone have any more ideas about a better fix?

Many thanks
Miles

Maramu 162


Sent from my iPhone


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Painting deck stripes - how much paint is needed??

John Clark
 

Gary, I used the single step Interlux,. I put photos of the cans on the forum...or maybe the FB group.  It works fine even in summer.  The paint is contained inside the Bugler tool so it doesn't dry out vlike it would in an open can.

I added a small amount of brush extender solvent to the mixing cup which gave me all day to work with the cup.  

Once on the deck it dried in 30 min 

John
SV Annie. SM 37
...missing the Amel Caribbean Ralley...

On Thu, Feb 28, 2019, 2:02 PM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
I think it all points to 1-part marine paint and redeaux every 5-6 years😀. At least that is where I would up a few years ago.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Thu, Feb 28, 2019 at 12:58 PM Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks Bill for the confirmation of the color.  

I have read and researched using Awlgrip for the stripes (as advised by the folks who did the repairs to Liahona and did her painting).  However, having just spoken with the Interlux Awlgrip technical representative I don't see how it will be feasible to use Awlgrip.  He indicated that the pot life for Awlgrip in 85 degrees is about 15 minutes to 30 minutes.  This he says is about as long as it takes to spray the hull of a 30 ft boat, but of course we aren't spraying and need a much longer pot life for this laborious process.  

He suggested Interlux Perfection two part topsides paint that properly reduced will have about a one hour pot life at 85 degrees F.  I have used perfection in the past for some spar touch ups and it has indeed lasted well.  It does come in a Cream color that appears to be similar to the Awlgrip Cream color. AwlGrip and Perfection bothl require a two part epoxy primer for adhesion (thus adding to the manpower involved in this process) but the pot life of the primers is much longer  than the top-coats and won't be an issue.

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
Puerto Rico 





Re: Insurance updates.

John Clark
 

Hi All,
   Yes, I think everyone is paying more now.  My insurance went from $2600 to $4200, after switching companies when my insurer lost any underwriters for US boats in the Caribbean.  

On Thu, Feb 28, 2019, 3:38 PM Alexandre Uster von Baar via Groups.Io <uster=rocketmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Good afternoon Gary,

Thanks for your kind message.
As you know I have always been a big fan of yours and so thankful for the countless, excellent and so precise writings you provided the forum over the years.

I am definitely sorry about the damages you experienced during the Hurricane, but I am glad that you had an overall positive insurance experience, and glad Liahona was repaired properly!   

I don’t doubt Helvetia will pay (by french law under I am governed) they have 2 years (so until November this year), but they surely try to get as much interest rate as they can…

Hope we meet one day!

Sincerely, Alexandre




--------------------------------------------
On Thu, 2/28/19, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:

 Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Insurance updates.
 To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
 Date: Thursday, February 28, 2019, 12:49 PM

 Alexandre:  

 I am so sad to hear of the
 pain and suffering you have received at the hands of your
 insurance company.  While I can certainly understand your
 feelings about insurance companies and I don't desire to
 worsen your pain and suffering, I can say that I had a
 reasonably good experience with my insurance claim.  The
 total repairs were about $135,000, my deductible was $16,000
 and the difference was paid as a $60,000 advance to commence
 work, with the balance paid in a timely manner when work was
 completed.  I was insured by YachtInsure thru Offshore Risk
 Management (William Coates).  I was on site for 10 of the
 16 weeks of the repairs and have over 2000 photos (daily
 about 50 photos taken by someone I hired to send those
 photos to me daily when I wasn't there).  It was very
 reassuring and helpful to be actively involved in the
 repairs as I was able to advise about the Amel construction
 techniques and features.  Fortunately the rubber scupper
 extrusion material was available from Amel or I don't
 know what we would have done.  The most un-satisfactory
 part of my insurance dealings is that the same insurer will
 not now insure the boat for the surveyed value.  I had to
 buy "Excess Insurance" to bring the value up to
 the desire limit.  I think the insurers are all reacting
 (dare I say over-reacting) to their losses in the Caribbean
 from Irma and Maria.  
 I sincerely hope
 that somewhere in the companies you are dealing with there
 is someone who is honest and will pay your claim, sooner
 rather than later.  

 All
 the best to you, 

 Gary S.
 Silver
 s/v Liahona
 Amel SM
 2000 #335








Window reveals refurb?

smiles bernard
 

Hello

Does anyone have any tips or tricks for repair of the window reveals ?

By this I mean the exposed ply edging around the inside of the windows - photo attached

I’m not sure if the SMS have this same design but on my Maramu these ply edges get a lot is sun and in places the facing veneer is starting to delaminate.

Just sand and varnish as best possible or does anyone have any more ideas about a better fix?

Many thanks
Miles

Maramu 162


Sent from my iPhone


Re: Jordan Drogue

eric freedman
 

Danny,

Before deciding on the Jordan for my first offshore boat I read the DDDB Drag Device Data book about sea anchors and drogues. My conclusion was to go with the Jordan.

I just pulled out the book and found a quote that I remembered from a boat using a 18 foot para anchor in

Force 9-10 winds . “as each monster wave approached. Celtic would back up like a retreating Muhammed Ali against a charging  Joe Frazier and let the impact roll under her. Huge waves would break on us and roll over the deck darkening the cabin with its green water. (page 3.1.45)

 

My other concern was that on a sea anchor you are going backwards. I don’t know what effect that would have on the rudder over an extended period of time.

I recall that quote to this day .

 

If you look at article below   the video in the attached link towards the middle of the article you will see the coast guard rescue of a few sailors from an upturned Swan about 160 miles closer to land than we were . If you look carefully you will see the men in the water in the night, At 2 minutes 30 seconds you will see the coast guard returning to retrieve the deceased captain. The chopper was hovering at 100 feet and you will see the chopper almost going into that wave. The boat was closer to shore so the winds and the wave heights were less than what we encountered..

I have now had the drogue out 3 times on 2 different boats and I hope it just sits in its bag and dies of green mold.

 

I have fabricated a wood block that bolts over the stern cleats so no more problem of ripping the cones there.

 

In the future, I plan on moving the SB antenna a few feet forward and then I can run the drogue bridle outside the backstays and that will solve all my issues.

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

http://lifefloatingby.blogspot.com/2008/10/coast-guard-rescues-2-mt-pleasant.html)

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2019 4:56 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Jordan Drogue

 

Hi Danny,

I don’t recall numerous problems with the Jordan the few times I have launched it. I believe with a bow mounted drag device, if a big wave is breaking you are going to get pooped..

How did your sea anchor work in Hurricane conditions?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2019 12:32 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Jordan Drogue

 

Hi Eric,

I know you believe in the drogue method of storm tactics but your description of your boat preparation and handling systems confirms my negativity to the system. The number of things to potentially go wrong is scary. Also It places the boat stern on to the breaking seas and that results in those seas breaking into the boat and filling the cockpit with water. I remember you saying that the crew in the cockpit was up to their armpits in water. I will stay with my bow deployed sea anchor. The front facing parts of the boat are designed to take attacks by the sea which the stern is not. (In my opinion.)

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 28 February 2019 at 17:35 eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi,

With respect to the Jordan Drogue it is now available in spectra—that is the way to go. It was originally developed by Don Jordan and manufactured by Dave Pelissier of Ace Sailmakers in Connecticut—I would order it from him  and only him.

There are many people now selling the drogue and a few that I have seen are shoddy.

 

If you are feeling really nautical you can buy the kit from him with pre-assembled cones and weave it together yourself.  If you do not get it from Ace, Make sure that the forward facing edge of the cones have seams on them otherwise they will shred after many hours in the water. See above photo.

 

 

When I had Kimberlite built I had Amel Super reinforce the stern cleats. At the end of my bridles I also have large loops spliced into them.

To keep from putting strain on one back stay (you only will have to adjust one leg)  I had a machine shop make me a titanium Humongous snatch block for 1 ½ inch line. Which I will fasten to a few places on the deck fittings to square the boat to the waves.

 

You might also want to have the vinyl covering for the cockpit (weather cloths) zippers modified. I had my sailmaker put loops on either side of the zipper every foot and a half so if the zipper starts coming apart you can tie it back together.

 

When bringing in the drogue you will need something bolted to the stern chocks as the drogue wants to get caught on it and tear the cones.

The drogue has to be tailed by hand as it is  too big for the winch.

Careful not to tear the cones on the winch line stripper.

 

Lastly, the winch motor will cut out after about 4 minutes due to thermal overload. Either bring in the drogue a bit, wait for the motor to cool off and proceed or wait till the overload device trips and then wait 5 minutes and it will work again.

 

I hope it never leaves your port locker.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

From: carpathia3 via groups.io [mailto:carpathia3@...]
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2019 10:23 AM
To: eric freedman
Subject: Private: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Gearbox greasing

 

Hi Eric,

Thank you for your response, very clear! And yes, I would like to attend to the shaft as well... Just not sure I will be able to take it out. I may have to construct a tool like Jose's to remove it. Mine has probably never been serviced in 19 years so I expect the worst...

I know you are also a big fan of the Jordan drogue and I am quite interested in having one on Carpathia. Can I ask you for your latest advice on how to fit it well with the backstays, and what you found the best setup on the SM. Any picture would help too...

Many thanks,

Guillaume

 


 


 


CAT pump mechanics needed in FLA

Alexander Ramseyer
 

Dear Amelians,
I'm searching a good CAT pump dealer AND MECHANIC. Will need parts and help, once in Florida. I currently plan to stay in Ft. Lauderdale and in the Ft. Pierce area.
Please let me know in case you have this information or can recommend somebody.

Thanks,
Alex
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54, #15
--
Diese Nachricht wurde von meinem Android Mobiltelefon mit GMX Mail gesendet.
Am 28.02.19, 16:05, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> schrieb:

James,

Eric Freedman of Kimberlite wrote this article about using a Jordan Drogue on his Super Maramu:  http://www.oceannavigator.com/March-April-2011/Prepare-for-survival-conditions/

You can also search this forum for "Jordan Drogue" and you will find several discussions.

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Jordan Drogue

eric freedman
 

Hi Danny,

I don’t recall numerous problems with the Jordan the few times I have launched it. I believe with a bow mounted drag device, if a big wave is breaking you are going to get pooped..

How did your sea anchor work in Hurricane conditions?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2019 12:32 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Jordan Drogue

 

Hi Eric,

I know you believe in the drogue method of storm tactics but your description of your boat preparation and handling systems confirms my negativity to the system. The number of things to potentially go wrong is scary. Also It places the boat stern on to the breaking seas and that results in those seas breaking into the boat and filling the cockpit with water. I remember you saying that the crew in the cockpit was up to their armpits in water. I will stay with my bow deployed sea anchor. The front facing parts of the boat are designed to take attacks by the sea which the stern is not. (In my opinion.)

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 28 February 2019 at 17:35 eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi,

With respect to the Jordan Drogue it is now available in spectra—that is the way to go. It was originally developed by Don Jordan and manufactured by Dave Pelissier of Ace Sailmakers in Connecticut—I would order it from him  and only him.

There are many people now selling the drogue and a few that I have seen are shoddy.

 

If you are feeling really nautical you can buy the kit from him with pre-assembled cones and weave it together yourself.  If you do not get it from Ace, Make sure that the forward facing edge of the cones have seams on them otherwise they will shred after many hours in the water. See above photo.

 

 

When I had Kimberlite built I had Amel Super reinforce the stern cleats. At the end of my bridles I also have large loops spliced into them.

To keep from putting strain on one back stay (you only will have to adjust one leg)  I had a machine shop make me a titanium Humongous snatch block for 1 ½ inch line. Which I will fasten to a few places on the deck fittings to square the boat to the waves.

 

You might also want to have the vinyl covering for the cockpit (weather cloths) zippers modified. I had my sailmaker put loops on either side of the zipper every foot and a half so if the zipper starts coming apart you can tie it back together.

 

When bringing in the drogue you will need something bolted to the stern chocks as the drogue wants to get caught on it and tear the cones.

The drogue has to be tailed by hand as it is  too big for the winch.

Careful not to tear the cones on the winch line stripper.

 

Lastly, the winch motor will cut out after about 4 minutes due to thermal overload. Either bring in the drogue a bit, wait for the motor to cool off and proceed or wait till the overload device trips and then wait 5 minutes and it will work again.

 

I hope it never leaves your port locker.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

From: carpathia3 via groups.io [mailto:carpathia3@...]
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2019 10:23 AM
To: eric freedman
Subject: Private: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Gearbox greasing

 

Hi Eric,

Thank you for your response, very clear! And yes, I would like to attend to the shaft as well... Just not sure I will be able to take it out. I may have to construct a tool like Jose's to remove it. Mine has probably never been serviced in 19 years so I expect the worst...

I know you are also a big fan of the Jordan drogue and I am quite interested in having one on Carpathia. Can I ask you for your latest advice on how to fit it well with the backstays, and what you found the best setup on the SM. Any picture would help too...

Many thanks,

Guillaume

 


 


 


Re: Jordan Drogue

Mark McGovern
 

James,

Eric Freedman of Kimberlite wrote this article about using a Jordan Drogue on his Super Maramu:  http://www.oceannavigator.com/March-April-2011/Prepare-for-survival-conditions/

You can also search this forum for "Jordan Drogue" and you will find several discussions.

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Insurance updates.

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good afternoon Gary,

Thanks for your kind message.
As you know I have always been a big fan of yours and so thankful for the countless, excellent and so precise writings you provided the forum over the years.

I am definitely sorry about the damages you experienced during the Hurricane, but I am glad that you had an overall positive insurance experience, and glad Liahona was repaired properly!

I don’t doubt Helvetia will pay (by french law under I am governed) they have 2 years (so until November this year), but they surely try to get as much interest rate as they can…

Hope we meet one day!

Sincerely, Alexandre




--------------------------------------------

On Thu, 2/28/19, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:

Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Insurance updates.
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Date: Thursday, February 28, 2019, 12:49 PM

Alexandre:  

I am so sad to hear of the
pain and suffering you have received at the hands of your
insurance company.  While I can certainly understand your
feelings about insurance companies and I don't desire to
worsen your pain and suffering, I can say that I had a
reasonably good experience with my insurance claim.  The
total repairs were about $135,000, my deductible was $16,000
and the difference was paid as a $60,000 advance to commence
work, with the balance paid in a timely manner when work was
completed.  I was insured by YachtInsure thru Offshore Risk
Management (William Coates).  I was on site for 10 of the
16 weeks of the repairs and have over 2000 photos (daily
about 50 photos taken by someone I hired to send those
photos to me daily when I wasn't there).  It was very
reassuring and helpful to be actively involved in the
repairs as I was able to advise about the Amel construction
techniques and features.  Fortunately the rubber scupper
extrusion material was available from Amel or I don't
know what we would have done.  The most un-satisfactory
part of my insurance dealings is that the same insurer will
not now insure the boat for the surveyed value.  I had to
buy "Excess Insurance" to bring the value up to
the desire limit.  I think the insurers are all reacting
(dare I say over-reacting) to their losses in the Caribbean
from Irma and Maria.  
I sincerely hope
that somewhere in the companies you are dealing with there
is someone who is honest and will pay your claim, sooner
rather than later.  

All
the best to you, 

Gary S.
Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM
2000 #335