Date   

Engine blower fan

smiles bernard
 

Hello there
I was wondering about the fragility of an engine cooling system that relies on an electric blower /fan
This I presume is the case for all Vintage Maramus - not sure if it’s also the case for Super Maramus too?
In the older Maramus like mine the blower fan is located in the port cockpit seat coaming area
I wondered if in the case of the electric fan failure it would be ok to simply remove the fan altogether and let the engine draw/suck air through he delivery ducts that the blower uses.
Any thoughts on this one?
Is the blower fan actually necessary in case of failure ?

Thoughts and any experience much appreciated

All the very best

Miles
Maramu 46 #162
Barbados


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue

Duane Siegfri
 

Porter, 

I didn't do a write up on the motor gearboxes, just the manual gearbox.  You can find that here: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/search/photos?query=gearbox#zax/albums_449168476.


Note that the second link has the bearings used, but I didn't see the oil seals listed.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Freezer Insulation

Duane Siegfri
 

I'm looking for suggestions on how to improve the insulation in our aft (and only) freezer.


We have had condensation from the freezer running into the deck locker just to stbd of the freezer for some time.  When we pulled the freezer out (not too bad of a job) I see that Amel used a liquid foam method where they built a form around the freezer (upside down) and injected foam to form the walls.  Then they put a bottom on the wall forms and injected foam thru a 4" diameter hole to form the bottom.  The thickness was: 3" bottom; 2" stbd side; 2.5" port; 1.5" fwd; 


The insulation was soaked at the joint between the "walls" and the "bottom" foam applications due to cracking/shrinkage/poor jointing, because air could penetrate through the voids and get to the cold surface and condense.  The foam was also deeply cracked in several places, again causing condensation. It was so wet in these areas when you pressed on the foam, water would flow out.  I can't imagine why Amel didn't use a closed cell foam.  I would say this is not one of Amels finest moments (OK, I'M READY FOR THE FLAMING ARROWS).  The saturated insulation was frozen where it was close to the box, and the wet unfrozen insulation must have been nearly worthless (I estimate this area to be 50%).  It must have been in this condition shortly after construction, but if you're not living aboard the insulation has a chance to dry out between uses.


The wood panels forming the stbd and fwd sides are not removable without cutting through fiberglass tabbing and disconnecting the refrigerant lines, which seems to me major surgery I'm not eager to take on afloat.


I've removed the wet insulation on the bottom, and the sides up to the wood panels (took about two hours).  Above that level there wasn't much saturated foam (I think it was wicking upward  into the "wall" from the "bottom" joint).  I'll let it dry on the main cabin table for a week.  I'm thinking of replacing this with 3 inches of closed cell EPS foam insulation board.  There is room on the back for an additional 2" of EPS (Amel put a 2" batt of insualtion there taped to the galley cabinets).  Then painting all the insulation I can reach with a paint intended to cut off vapor transmission to the foam.  This EPS has an R value of 2.9 per inch of thickness, so 3" is 8.7 which has to be better than the sauturated insulation.  On the back with the additional 1.5" board it will be an R of 13.


The insulation has to be glued to the freezer box (polyurethane construction glue?), and since the box has rounded corners there will be voids.  I'm thinking of leaving gaps between the "walls" and "bottom" insulation joints and filling them with one of the spray can crack filling foams to try to make it as vapor tight as possible.  I thought about a plastic vapor barrier but I can't access behind the wood panels on the fwd and stbd sides.


Any thoughts or suggestions on this method?


Thanks,

Duane

Wanderer, SM#477



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue

greatketch@...
 

Ah, now I got it. What you describe is a worm gear, but...

You are not referring to the manual gearbox, rather the electrically driven gearboxes.  The manual box is the one attached to the foil designed as a backup for the the electric designed to be driven by a winch handle.

A "double lip seal" is NOT two smaller ones!  Even if you could find seals so thin as to fit two in that housing, it would be a bad idea.  A "double lip seal" is the same size seal frame, and would look superficially the same, but with the rubber shaped into two lips, one specifically designed to keep grease/oil in and the other to keep contaminants out.  They are not available in all seal sizes.

Removal, and proper replacement of any lipseal requires disassembly. It should never be done with the shaft in place. There is simply no good way to remove the seal without risking serious damage to the shaft or seal housing.  With the C-drive the removal of the wearing out bearing gives the room around the shaft to work.  There is no similar alternative on the gearboxes.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Spanish Wells, Bahamas




---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailor63109@...> wrote :

Bill,

I'm pretty sure of my terminology (per Google anyway).  The worm gear I mentioned is "a shaft with a spiral groove meant to engage a gear" turned by the motor.  The worm gear turned a large round gear that turned the furler extrusion.  Mine are Leroy Somer MVA gearboxes.  

I definitely agree with your lip seal comments.  I'm not sure I can get mine out without disassembly.  Are you able to remove them similiar to the C-Drive prop shaft lip seals?  Using two smaller ones makes sense.  

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477
West Palm Beach and headed to the Bahamas.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue

Duane Siegfri
 

Bill,

I'm pretty sure of my terminology (per Google anyway).  The worm gear I mentioned is "a shaft with a spiral groove meant to engage a gear" turned by the motor.  The worm gear turned a large round gear that turned the furler extrusion.  Mine are Leroy Somer MVA gearboxes.  

I definitely agree with your lip seal comments.  I'm not sure I can get mine out without disassembly.  Are you able to remove them similiar to the C-Drive prop shaft lip seals?  Using two smaller ones makes sense.  

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477
West Palm Beach and headed to the Bahamas.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Porter,
The zip tie was likely around the "V" seal that sits on top of all, hopefully keeping stuff out of the rest of the assembly. As they deteriorate they crack open and people often "repair" that with a zip tie rather than disassemble to install a fresh one.
Cheers,
Craig Briggs, SN68


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue

Porter McRoberts
 

Gents. 
I am enjoying the recent chatter re the main furling motor. 
I just pulled mine out as it was quite “tired” 
Dissection revealed cancerous corrosion everywhere. Our is the vertical type which sits in the mast, and turns on the same axis as the furling foil. I had asked the former owners mechanic how to service the motor while we were in Martinique in April. His response “you don’t, it’s fine...”. During removal I noted an errant zip tie (of still unexplained importance or virtue) sitting atop the seal/gasket which seemed to have worn significantly the seal/gasket and permitted the egress of the elements. 
The motor could not be resuscitated. A new one from our man Thierry arrives Wednesday. 
So: my question: other than the habitual application of silicone grease to the seal and corrosion X inside, any other tips for prophylaxis on this vertically aligned motor?  
I’d appreciate any thoughts!

Duane, I looked for your original treatise and could not find it if you could send I’d be obliged. 


Many thanks to you all. 

Porter
Ibis 54-152. Panama 

Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Jan 14, 2019, at 2:56 PM, John Clark john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Chuck,
    I did the same rebuild of both gears.  The manual furler is also the thrust bearing for the mainsail foil.  It rusted to mush and almost seized up.  The bearings are off the shelf wheel bearings....cost less than 20 USD.  The trick to getting the bearings out is heat.  I put the case in the oven heated to about 350F and the big bearing pops right out. 

Seals are the same off the shelf parts ...

I think I posted the part numbers on the forum.  If you cannot find the post I will send you a list.

Regards John

SV Annie,.. SM 37
Prickly Bay

On Mon, Jan 14, 2019, 9:11 AM Chuck Lacey clacey9@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... wrote:
 

Thanks Duane. I now remember you did a detailed write up on this. I will go back and read. Fortunately my manual furler is working or we would be motoring everywhere. Once fixed I'll keep it well lubed to fight corrosion. 
Chuck 
Joy SM #388
East bound to St.Martin
Windward Gods be kind 

On Sun, Jan 13, 2019 at 6:41 PM sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Chuck,


Same thing happened to me.  The top bearing in the gearbox was rusted solid, both in the motor gearbox and the manual furler.

There is a list of the bearings used somewhere on the forum.  You can do this overhaul yourself if you have a bearing puller.  The bearings are pretty cheap.

I'm going to start hitting the top bearings in the gearbox with a "wet" bicycle chain oil.  This top bearings does not get enough lubrication from below, but it does have some saltwater penetration.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue

greatketch@...
 

Duane,

Having just had my main sail manual furling gearbox apart, I know on mine there is no worm gear, just two spur gears.  Which makes sense, because you (usually) can not back-drive a worm gear.
Were there different models?  Or are you thinking of something else?

On all of these gearboxes it is critical to consider all the lip seals maintenance items that need to be changed on a regular basis. I have mine on a two year replacement cycle, which is probably excessive, but seals are cheap and readily available, and gears are NOT. If you see even a trace of rust on the seal, that means the garter spring is rusting and failure is imminent.  Replace it sooner--not later!

When changed it is also important that the seals be packed with grease so they do not run dry, even if you use oil as the primary lubricant in the gear box. In addition to lubrication, grease helps make a good water barrier.  On the seals that face upward, and are subject to the most persistent saltwater contact, consider going with double-lip seals instead of single for an additional barrier to water, dirt, and salt.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Spanish Wells, Bahamas


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: March Liquid cooled pump

 

Eric,

I have some more information. Calpeda recently added a model that I think you should consider. It is the Calpeda BCM22/1/A-R and it is 50 / 60Hz. It moves 1,700GPH. It is in stock at Caraibes in Martinique and is priced at 875 € net. They also have the BCM22/A in stock at about the same price.

Caraibes is an Amel School Preferred Vendor. Contact Patrice FOUGEROUSE caraibe-refrigeration.fr>


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Jan 14, 2019 at 10:29 AM Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
This is where it gets confusing. Also, there have been some mind-bending facts presented, but for what it is worth, I have a conclusion that I am satisfied with.

Some information you need to know:
Veco (Climma) uses Calpeda pumps and brands them with the Climma brand. When they do this, they assign a Climma number. The numbers posted for the Calpeda pump from http://www.penguinfrigo.co.uk/ are actually Climma numbers, not Calpeda. The Calpeda number is BCM20/E for the original AC saltwater pump. That "Climma" pump at Penguin is a Calpeda BCM20/A. Calpeda no longer offers a BCM20/E. I am not sure what the difference is between "A" and "E," but I suspect it is electrical because both of these pumps have the same GPH range around 1200. I know that years ago Calpeda had 2 versions of the BCM20. The one Amel installed had an aluminum capacitor, the other a plastic capacitor. There may have been other differences. I also know that if you were unfortunate to buy one with the plastic capacitor, it would melt with heavy use in the tropics.

I am now convinced that the best pump for the A/C is the Calpeda pump. Someday, March may make an encapsulated magnetic drive pump in the 1,200GPH range. When they do, my preference will change. That said, the March TE 5.5C-MD-AC will do a great job, however, you must keep saltwater away from everything except the inside of the pump housing, and you must treat the painted sheet metal case with CorrosionX. You must also immediately clean any accidentally spilled saltwater from the casing and then treat with CorrosionX. 

Unlike Eric's experience with rust appearing on a similar stored March pump, I did not have that happen for the 4 years I had one stored as a spare in the engine room, but I had coated it with CorrosionX only once when I stored it. 

I hope this helps.
 
Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Jan 14, 2019 at 6:39 AM 'Luijten A.F.' arno.luijten@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I went through the same process finding an alternative for a leaking Calpedia A/C pump.

My conclusion is that for the requirements of running three A/Cs there is no powerful enough pump available with mag-drive. It may be because it would become very expensive to manufacture or you can’t have magnets strong enough for the space available. I don’t know.

I had had just last month a new Calpedia pump delivered to St. Martin from www.penguinfrigo.co.uk. Pretty happy with their service. 
It’s a slightly different model that can also run 60 Hz instead of only 50 Hz. The M67270J is a 50-60Hz model and will work just as well as the original M67270U pump. The fit-match is exact.

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue

John Clark
 

Chuck,
    I did the same rebuild of both gears.  The manual furler is also the thrust bearing for the mainsail foil.  It rusted to mush and almost seized up.  The bearings are off the shelf wheel bearings....cost less than 20 USD.  The trick to getting the bearings out is heat.  I put the case in the oven heated to about 350F and the big bearing pops right out. 

Seals are the same off the shelf parts ...

I think I posted the part numbers on the forum.  If you cannot find the post I will send you a list.

Regards John

SV Annie,. SM 37
Prickly Bay

On Mon, Jan 14, 2019, 9:11 AM Chuck Lacey clacey9@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... wrote:
 

Thanks Duane. I now remember you did a detailed write up on this. I will go back and read. Fortunately my manual furler is working or we would be motoring everywhere. Once fixed I'll keep it well lubed to fight corrosion. 
Chuck 
Joy SM #388
East bound to St.Martin
Windward Gods be kind 

On Sun, Jan 13, 2019 at 6:41 PM sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Chuck,


Same thing happened to me.  The top bearing in the gearbox was rusted solid, both in the motor gearbox and the manual furler.

There is a list of the bearings used somewhere on the forum.  You can do this overhaul yourself if you have a bearing puller.  The bearings are pretty cheap.

I'm going to start hitting the top bearings in the gearbox with a "wet" bicycle chain oil.  This top bearings does not get enough lubrication from below, but it does have some saltwater penetration.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: March Liquid cooled pump

 

This is where it gets confusing. Also, there have been some mind-bending facts presented, but for what it is worth, I have a conclusion that I am satisfied with.

Some information you need to know:
Veco (Climma) uses Calpeda pumps and brands them with the Climma brand. When they do this, they assign a Climma number. The numbers posted for the Calpeda pump from http://www.penguinfrigo.co.uk/ are actually Climma numbers, not Calpeda. The Calpeda number is BCM20/E for the original AC saltwater pump. That "Climma" pump at Penguin is a Calpeda BCM20/A. Calpeda no longer offers a BCM20/E. I am not sure what the difference is between "A" and "E," but I suspect it is electrical because both of these pumps have the same GPH range around 1200. I know that years ago Calpeda had 2 versions of the BCM20. The one Amel installed had an aluminum capacitor, the other a plastic capacitor. There may have been other differences. I also know that if you were unfortunate to buy one with the plastic capacitor, it would melt with heavy use in the tropics.

I am now convinced that the best pump for the A/C is the Calpeda pump. Someday, March may make an encapsulated magnetic drive pump in the 1,200GPH range. When they do, my preference will change. That said, the March TE 5.5C-MD-AC will do a great job, however, you must keep saltwater away from everything except the inside of the pump housing, and you must treat the painted sheet metal case with CorrosionX. You must also immediately clean any accidentally spilled saltwater from the casing and then treat with CorrosionX. 

Unlike Eric's experience with rust appearing on a similar stored March pump, I did not have that happen for the 4 years I had one stored as a spare in the engine room, but I had coated it with CorrosionX only once when I stored it. 

I hope this helps.
 
Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970



On Mon, Jan 14, 2019 at 6:39 AM 'Luijten A.F.' arno.luijten@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I went through the same process finding an alternative for a leaking Calpedia A/C pump.

My conclusion is that for the requirements of running three A/Cs there is no powerful enough pump available with mag-drive. It may be because it would become very expensive to manufacture or you can’t have magnets strong enough for the space available. I don’t know.

I had had just last month a new Calpedia pump delivered to St. Martin from www.penguinfrigo.co.uk. Pretty happy with their service. 
It’s a slightly different model that can also run 60 Hz instead of only 50 Hz. The M67270J is a 50-60Hz model and will work just as well as the original M67270U pump. The fit-match is exact.

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue

Duane Siegfri
 

I did a detailed write up on the manual furler overhaul, not the motor gearbox. 

It's pretty simple.  Remove the cover plates, you'll have to pry them off carefully.  Inside you'll find a worm gear that drives a large bronze gear on a shaft that turns the furler.  This bronze gear is known to wear out, so I replaced it while I had it apart (sourced from Amel).  You'll also need the oil seals.  You need the bearing puller to remove the bronze gear, and the top and bottom bearing.  I understand that they were originally filled with oil.  Following advice on the forum I filled them with grease.  Many people installed grease zerts so they could top up the grease.  While I had them off I painted them, many people have them powder coated.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue

Chuck_Kim_Joy
 

Thanks Duane. I now remember you did a detailed write up on this. I will go back and read. Fortunately my manual furler is working or we would be motoring everywhere. Once fixed I'll keep it well lubed to fight corrosion. 
Chuck 
Joy SM #388
East bound to St.Martin
Windward Gods be kind 

On Sun, Jan 13, 2019 at 6:41 PM sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Chuck,


Same thing happened to me.  The top bearing in the gearbox was rusted solid, both in the motor gearbox and the manual furler.

There is a list of the bearings used somewhere on the forum.  You can do this overhaul yourself if you have a bearing puller.  The bearings are pretty cheap.

I'm going to start hitting the top bearings in the gearbox with a "wet" bicycle chain oil.  This top bearings does not get enough lubrication from below, but it does have some saltwater penetration.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: March Liquid cooled pump

Arno Luijten
 

I went through the same process finding an alternative for a leaking Calpedia A/C pump.
My conclusion is that for the requirements of running three A/Cs there is no powerful enough pump available with mag-drive. It may be because it would become very expensive to manufacture or you can’t have magnets strong enough for the space available. I don’t know.

I had had just last month a new Calpedia pump delivered to St. Martin from www.penguinfrigo.co.uk. Pretty happy with their service. 
It’s a slightly different model that can also run 60 Hz instead of only 50 Hz. The M67270J is a 50-60Hz model and will work just as well as the original M67270U pump. The fit-match is exact.

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue

Alan Leslie
 

I was referring to the motorised gearbox on the boom. The bearing on the top is particularly prone to corrosion due to salt water.
I agree the manual gearboxes on both the main and the mizzen benefit from regular fresh water flushing.
Cheers
Alan 
Elyse SM437


Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue

rossirossix4
 

The detailed and informative posting about the mizzen furling gearbox indicated that it is designed to be flushed with fresh water raher than oil lubrication.  Is this the case for the main furling gears or are they different?

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI SM 429
São Vicente, Cape Verde Islands


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] March Liquid cooled pump

Barry Connor
 

Hello Bill,
Thank you for your knowledge, this is the exact pump that Dessalator are now providing as the low pressure pump. I was wrong it is not aluminum. 
I must remember that it is best to come to the group first, you can save on time and money. 
Many Thanks 

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Marina di Ragusa,   Sicily 


On Jan 13, 2019, at 18:56, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Here is the Calpeda from the UK: https://www.colglo.co.uk/product.php?product=CALPB-CM20. If you are in St. Martin, I suspect that you can find the Calpeda, or at least someone to order it.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool..com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970



On Sun, Jan 13, 2019 at 11:51 AM Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Eric,

March pump flow of the LC-5C-MD Mag Drive Pump is "Max Flow 14.5 GPM." That is 870GPH. The reseller, marinepartssource.com, has exaggerated the output to 1,000GPH. The March spec sheet is here: http://www.marchpump.com/pumps/series-5/lc-5c-md/

Also, I can't find a higher output for this "Series 5" March pump.

Additionally, the AC-5C-MD Magnetic Drive Pump (March Pump recommended by Veco and Coastal Climate Control) is rated by March at 17GPM or 1,020GPH. This may be the reason they recommend this pump.

I believe the output is too low on the AC-5C-MD, and suggest that you keep searching.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970



On Sun, Jan 13, 2019 at 9:08 AM Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Eric,

Agree, but I wonder why Veco (manufacturer of the Climma AC) doesn't recommend this pump, rather another March pump. Possibly cost, because it is at least 50% more? As far as I am concerned, the March LC-5C-MD is the best pump to use for the AC. The only question I have, is there one that is 1200-1500. The first chance I get, I'll ask Veco why they don't recommend this pump. I'll let you know.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970
My calendar: 
https://theamelschool.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


On Sun, Jan 13, 2019, 12:04 AM 'Kimberlite' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... wrote:
 

Here is an example of a March liquid cooled pump

https://www.marinepartssource.com/1000-gph-230v-march-air-conditioning-pump-march-pumps-0150-0004-0600?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImYS954nq3wIVko7ICh0EWw0hEAQYBSABEgI7FvD_BwE#

 

I had the pump in my hands in St Maarten. It is totally encapsulated in  what appears to be some form of epoxy and NOT PAINT  and there is no way for it to rust.

There are 2 copper pipes coming from the pump section to cool the motor. I would however get the next size larger to get maximum water volume.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

I believe this is the wat to go.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2019 11:27 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] march pump

 

 

Hi Eric,

 

I was curious and looked at the March info.  I believe the 'AC' designation refers to an open style motor that should not be exposed to the possibility of water getting on the motor.  The 'CP' designator is an open drip proof motor that would tolerate exposure to some drippage (?) from above.  They also have TEFC motors available for some direct exposure to water.  However, I think all these motors except the 'LC' submersible variety are standard carbon steel motor housings with some form of a painted finish that apparently does not tolerate a salt air or humid environment i.e. they all will show surface rust at some time.  Good luck with your preventative maintenance project.

 

Mark Mueller

Brass Ring A54


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Auto Prop Bearings

Alan Leslie
 

Thanks Bill,
The videos are excellent.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue

Alan Leslie
 

I regularly spray lanolin grease on the top of that bearing where the shaft protrudes, because of the fact that it is so exposed to saltwater. So far no problems with seized rusted bearings.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] March Liquid cooled pump

karkauai
 

Great info, thanks Danny.  I see you buy the stuff by the gallon.  Will add a big jug to my list.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Jan 13, 2019, at 10:06 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

in high challenge areas like low in the engine room, (eg 230v pump for the aircon) monthly. Rest of the engine room, bi monthly (if it gets longer than that I get guilt feelings). Wiring joints, around aircon units, behind instruments 6 monthly. Watch for any areas where wiring corrosion occurs and spray when seen and add to list.I spray all water manifolds. .I have re enlivened instruments by treating connections. 

I spray into electric motors and alternators and starter motors and if you do this be careful not to use a product with added lubricant that could transmit electricity.  I knew one guy who prior to an ocean race did that into the back of his radios. Oh dear!!!!! That's why I am confident of my crc66 (and I have often used 556) but a little uneasy with corrosion x which tends to be a bit more lubricant orientated. I have no scientific justification for this uneasiness. One warning re CRC 556 and marine 66, rubber does not like it, it goes all spongy. I'll tell the story again. Years ago on a previous boat a heat exchanger hose burst and drowned my alternator in salt water. On the basis that fresh water has to be better than salt I liberally soused in in fresh water (in place) I then (while still wet) emptied a can of CRC 556 into it and went home. It never missed a beat thereafter. Hence my confidence in the product, conformed by a further 15 years use.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl


On 14 January 2019 at 14:21 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Danny and Bill R.
I know you are both big fans of spraying all electrical and metal parts regularly (CRC66 or Corrosion X). How often do you do this?

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
karkauai@...
USA cell: 828-234-6819