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Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....
Hi Tom,
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I cut a trapezoidal opening in the new floor leaving 3” all around. It’s enough of an opening to work in the chain locker but you’ll still feel cramped. The floor is solid enough to walk around on without any “give”. Kent S/V Kristy SM 243
On Mar 13, 2019, at 4:05 AM, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:
Wow kent- timely message for me. I cut a small access port in the bottom of chain locker grating where mud accumulates and have covered it with starboard I can remove for periodic vacuuming. But now the key issue- how to I get access to chain locker ? A port cut in the bow locker would have to be fairly big. Does this impact structural strength ? How about making the whole starboard floor float on rubber gasket and screw down ? But remaining fiber glass lip would have to be beefed up to allow for attachment. Thumbscrews ? I need a few days in air conditioning to figure this out and noodle on the ideas of other Amelians. After reading your post and seeing my locker up close and personal, not having access is not an option for me. I need to know I'm not toting around alot of mud and 600 lbs of rusty chain.
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Re: Gross tonnage on SM
Pat,
Remember that Gross and Net Tonnage on your Ship's Papers IS NOT weight. It is a measure of volume of cargo a ship can carry that goes back to setting tax rates on shipping. Net is total less machinery space conceptually, but the formulas are a bit arcane. You can get more info on the USCG or NVDOC web pages, which has an easy way to get an approximate measure. Yours sounds exactly right - my Santorin, which weights some 22000 pounds, or 11 tons has a Gross Registered Tonnage (GRT) of 31 and 28 Net. Again, Registered Tons are cubic volume, not weight. Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris
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Re: Gross tonnage on SM
Richard Colebatch
Patrick,
Sailboat data below. Rgds Richard. FAO Hull Type:
Wing Keel
Rigging Type:
Masthead Ketch
LOA:
52.49 ft
LWL:
41.34 ft
Beam:
15.09 ft
S.A. (reported):
1,302.00 ft2
Draft (max):
6.73 ft
Draft (min):
Displacement:
35,274 lb
Ballast:
12,125 lb
S.A./Disp.:
19.45
Bal./Disp.:
34.37
Disp./Len.:
222.89
Construction:
FG
Ballast Type:
Iron
First Built:
1989
Last Built:
1998
# Built:
237
Builder:
Amel (FRA)
Designer:
Henry Amel & J. Carteau
Website:
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Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions
James Alton
Michael,
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Thanks for providing the link for the chain shackle, that looks like a positive way to connect a snubber. As it turns out I am preparing an order through SVB so this was good timing. We have always used a snubber since we also consider it to be essential but I want to have several backups prepared and ready to add if needed. It seems to be difficult for find Nylon line in Italian Chanderlies for some reason so I will bring more with us on the next trip over. I have also decided to try eliminating the original stainless anchor swivel used on my Bugel for the chain to anchor connection also over concerns of it potentially being a weak point though it has never given us a problem. If I start having problems stowing the anchor due to twists, I will revisit the swivel options but otherwise fewer connections seems like the way to go. I think I will go ahead and order the 100m of the 10mm chain and try Tom’s solution to deal with the chain castle problem. Worst case scenario I can always cut some off if it becomes too much of a problem. I just looked again at the weight of 8mm chain and this time what came up was 14kg for 10m. I might have made a math error or typo in my previous post. Best, James SV Sueno Maramu #220
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Gross tonnage on SM
Patrick McAneny
We checked in yesterday here in Montserrat and were charged ,based on gross tonnage,this has happened on other island as well. I think we are paying more than we should,because I believe our ship papers are wrong. Our papers show gross tonnage to be 58 GRT ,net 46 NRT. That sounds high to me,could someone confirm the correct tonnage?
Thanks, Pat SM Shenanigans
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Re: Sharki shaft alternator
Aras Grinius <n33077@...>
Gerhart,
The red lighting means a lack of rpm on the prop shaft; that the generator is not charging Aras Grinius SV Fiasco, Sharki #163
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Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions
@Sioned
Hi James,
yes, I will try out Toms solution. Will need probably some rod to help push the first 20m chain forward in the locker. As for the chain shackle for the snubber, I am using this one: https://www.svb24.com/en/chain-gripper-chain-shackle.html I don't think there will be any chance of it coming loose unexpectedly. I am also using just a standard quality shackle to connect the chain to the anchor. Not a fancy swiveling one. I don't deem those to be necessary and they are a weak point, and you normally cannot check the swivel for corrosion. But opinions differ about this topic. Using a snubber is always a good idea and I cannot understand the people not using one. Just keep in mind that a snubber has a maximum extension, too. If that is reached in heavy weather you are back to the point where any additional force will reach the anchor unmitigated. But then there is not much else you can do at that point but pray. I took the 13kg for the 8mm chain from catalog data. I think it might depend on the actual material used. Michael Konz, SY Sioned, Maramu #148
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Amel Euros 41
DavidS
Hello, I'm new to the forum so i want to appologize if I post in a wrong group.
The question I have is: I am interested in buying an Amel Euros 41, build in 1975, well taking care of for all these years. But I'm curious if there are some specific points that have to be looked after. I have a general idea what to check out but it is a general idea suiting all sailing vessels. Kind regards, David
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Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....
Thomas Kleman
Wow kent- timely message for me. I cut a small access port in the bottom of chain locker grating where mud accumulates and have covered it with starboard I can remove for periodic vacuuming. But now the key issue- how to I get access to chain locker ? A port cut in the bow locker would have to be fairly big. Does this impact structural strength ? How about making the whole starboard floor float on rubber gasket and screw down ? But remaining fiber glass lip would have to be beefed up to allow for attachment. Thumbscrews ? I need a few days in air conditioning to figure this out and noodle on the ideas of other Amelians.
After reading your post and seeing my locker up close and personal, not having access is not an option for me. I need to know I'm not toting around alot of mud and 600 lbs of rusty chain.
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Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....
Hi Thomas, I also had the unfortunate experience of my chain getting rusted into a ball. I managed to get it out with a pneumatic chisel while pulling the end of the chain up with a halyard, but it took about 40 man-hours. I acquired the nickname Rusty for that project. A friend’s slight 13 year old farm kid is great with all kinds of tools and heavy equipment. He crawled into the chain locker. He used a vibrating saw to cut a 4”x4” hole in the false floor and found the area below it completely filled with mud and small particles of rust that he was able to remove with a shopvac. We screwed an 8”x8” piece of StarBoard to the top of the cut out that keeps it from falling back into the bottom. I was surprised that the exit hole where water leaves the chain locker was located just below the false floor. So that space stays full of water all the time. Not sure why the hole wasn’t at the bottom of the bulkhead at the V of the hull. I have since had to replace the floors of the bow lockers (there are a couple of threads here about this). I used a very strong light weight sandwich board material (sorry, don’t remember what it’s called). I cut access ports in the new floors and made them water-tight (the frames are screwed down on the remaining sandwich board with a rubber gasket, so access isn’t easy, but it is there if you need it. Kent Robertson S/V Kristy SM243
On Mar 11, 2019, at 12:36 PM, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:
Thanks to all for the words of wisdom I'm getting. Because I wasn't that careful with debris, the dust and wood chips combined with the mud already there to clog my anchor locker drain (entering through the permanent grating). While I was able to access the line to clear it out both from the T connection near the shower and the drain fitting inside the locker, getting the mud/other stuff out requires one to be inside the chain locker with some kind of vacuum poked through the grate, if it's really clogged. Which brings me to my question. I'm leaning towards an ingress hatch so I can get inside the chain locker. Just continually blowing the clog free with water/compressed air seems to be kicking the can down the road a bit. Thoughts ? Note- Since I achieved the age of 6, I lost the ability to pass through the bulkhead access door. I'm wondering if part of the reason my previous 5 year old chain became a ball of rust was incomplete drainage from the locker. I can't say I regularly emptied enough chain out of the locker to allow for a visual inspection.
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Re: Hawse Pipe Replacement
Thomas Kleman
Thanks to Mark for agreeing to post some pics for me. Today I installed my epoxy resin hawse pipe header/fillet under the windlass. The throat fits in my 4 inch PVC pipe, and it has a wide fillet for the back starboard windlass bolt, which now needs to be longer due to the 10 mm height of the fillet. It's held by 7 screws and half a tube of 5200, as well as the windlass bolt. The residual glassing from the original Amel hawse pipe made it difficult to get the mounting site perfectly flat; the windlass wires complicate getting a grinder in there. Eventually a wood chisel did the trick.
Since my crafter side is activated now, I'm going to make an epoxy resin sacrificial insert for the pcv pipe mounted where it exits the floor to help it last a bit longer.
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Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions
James Alton
Michael,
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Those are some interesting solutions that I have never heard of. Apparently a lot of thought has gone into how to deal with chain castles. I really appreciate your input on this. Did you read Toms simple solution in the next post that has worked for 20 years for him? I should have thought of that but it never occurred to me. Yes, I understand what you are saying about how having more weight in the rode will provide more catenary at the same load, all true. Of course in higher winds even heavy chain will as you say begin to act like a rod so at that point having a really good snubber that won’t detach when the all chain rode is wanting to act like a rod is really important. That is another subject that I have been studying since I have had so many chain hooks pop off when conditions got rough and they were really needed. I have been tying my snubber to the chain in stronger conditions since the caribiner type hook that came with the boat does not look like it is strong enough for strong conditions but at least it never pops off the chain. The icicle hitch seems to be a little better than a rolling hitch to make this connection but I still worry about the line working free. I am open to suggestions. There is a lot to this anchoring business. (grin) Assuming a proper snubber handles the surge loads, would the same weight of rode in 8mm or in 10mm provide the best holding? I think that if this was the only issue that the 8mm would be the clear winner due to the longer scope but of course it is never this simple. What options are there for instance to attach line to the 8mm that would be as strong as the grade 80 chain? And what about the strength of the shackle to the anchor at the other end? Those concerns bring me back to probably using the 3/8” chain. And of course in a tight anchorage with limited swinging room so that scope is limited, the heavier rode would be better I think. You might check the math on the weight of the 10m of 8mm chain, unless I have made an error (quite possible) I think it is a bit over 16KG so about a 7 KG difference per 10m. I have learned a lot from this discussion, thanks! James SV Sueno Maramu #220
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Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions
Germain Jean-Pierre
Hello James,
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The link is to a well known UK metallurgist who also lives on his sailboat, usually in GR. I think you’ll like what you read… Additionally, if you don’t mind the ticket price, think of a ULTRA anchor. Their swivel is perfect for avoiding contact with the bow. Good luck
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Re: Sharki shaft alternator
marklesparkle59
Thanks for that Miles. The engine is a Perkins 4108 I will check the gear box n ext visit. Am I right that the starboard alternator is also called the engine alternator and the port is aka domestic? We have a mixture of original and new electrical equipment and I am keen for any comments on the photos. I dont really understand what these gauges and the Sterling box are telling me or doing. The red light on the main board never goes out, what does that indicate? Do all Sharkis have a similar system? Mark Sent from my Samsung device
-------- Original message -------- From: "smiles bernard via Groups.Io" <smilesbernard@...> Date: 12/03/2019 16:43 (GMT+00:00) To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sharki shaft alternator That looks like my hurth Mark! What is the model number ? It has a ID plate on the top All the best Miles
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Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions
James Alton
Tom,
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I really like your solution. It sounds pretty foolproof, just a bit of hands on work if you are using more than 200’ of your chain! Thanks for the idea, I like this much better than adding the bulkhead. I am also still considering the 8mm chain idea. I feel like weight put into the anchor adds more holding power than putting it into the chain. I am considering both the 85 lbs and the 105 pound Mantus. The 105lb. Mantus is so wide that I am a little concerned that I might loose a degree or two on the wind from the windage! (grin) Glad to hear that your Bruce is treating you so well. Thanks for all of the thoughtful and helpful input. James SV Sueno, Maramu #220
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Re: Sharki shaft alternator
Gerhard Mueller
Mark
your picture looks like the same gearbox as I have. I will dive tomorrow into the engine room to check the type of the Hurth gearbox. The sticker was in french and english language and I renewed it now in german language because it was getting bad after 35 years. -- Gerhard Mueller Amel Sharki #60 Currently Kalamata, Greece
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Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions
amel46met
James
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I have 300 feet of 3/8” H.T. Chain. I hand spread the first 100 feet and then pile 200 feet on top of that with the windless no problems with the pyramid although I like hearing it fall over as I retrieve I have tried putting a bulkhead forward and putting
100 feet forward of that but just spreading it seems to work fine for the last 20 years.I do have an old fashion Bruce anchor 50 kg it never drags I like it when people say that is an awfully big anchor.
Tom Deasy
S/Y Aphrodite
1983 Maramu # 125
On Mar 12, 2019, at 1:10 PM, "amel@..." <amel@...> wrote:
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Re: Maramu anchor and chain suggestions
@Sioned
Hi James,
I _think_ there should be enough space in the locker to install such a partial bulkhead. But remember that the locker hatch is not that big. So I imagine it will be a pain to both install the bulkhead and to put the first 20 m there each time you have used them. That said it might still be a feasible idea. There are also other possible technical solutions that might or might not work like: https://www.force4.co.uk/force-4-chain-boy.html and https://www.sailmagazine.com/cruising/anti-chain-pyramid-rod So far I didn't try either of it. Using 8mm chain would probably eliminate the problem alltogether but it comes with a big caveat: As I pointed out earlier, with the smaller chain you also loose a lot of weight. While this is a desirable effect for the boat trim (more for light deplacement boats than for an Amel), it is abolutely undesirable when the chain is NOT in the locker but in the water. 10m of 10mm chain weigh about 23 kg while 10m of 8mm chain weigh only 13kg. For an anchor chain weight equals to damping. A lighter chain will come stiff like a rod much earlier than a heavier chain when swell and wind increases. As soon as the chain is solid stiff the damping and force absorption cease to exist and the full force of wind gusts and swell will take effect on your anchor thus increasing the danger for it to break out considerably. This not so much a problem in light conditions, but in heavy weather it can make a big difference. I consired switching to a 8mm Chrome Duplex chain myself but gave up on that thought when I realized the consequences. Michael, SY Sioned, Maramu #148
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Re: Sharki shaft alternator
smiles bernard
That looks like my hurth Mark!
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
What is the model number ? It has a ID plate on the top All the best Miles
On 12 Mar 2019, at 05:41, marklesparkle59 <marklesparkle59@...> wrote:
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Re: Dessalator pump model
Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
Hi Bill,
Many thanks for that, and for fgetting me in the group so quickly! Cheers, Paul
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