main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io

Re: US State taxes

Mark Erdos

#44604

Craig,

We too found Florida to be different from most other states. The boating industry is so important to the economy there, the state is protecting that business.

We purchased Cream Puff in Ft. Lauderdale and considered moving the vessel north for the 180 days and bouncing from state to state and returning to FL with a RI or DE registration. The plan was to then register in FL and avoid the tax. However, this is a very very very grey area. And, once again when we started to be on the boat full time, if we were caught in MD after 90 days with the FL registration, we would then get stung with MD tax because we couldn’t prove sales tax was paid.

We decided to flag the vessel BVI (I have a USA and British passport) and avoided any USA sales tax requirements (USA cruising permits). This has also paid off dividends with boat insurance.

With best regards,

Mark

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Craig Briggs via Groups.Io
Sent: Monday, March 4, 2019 10:24 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] US State taxes

Mark,
We brought our US flagged boat back to the US, registered it in Florida and paid no sales/use tax, even though it had been registered in NH, which has 0% tax.

When we bought it in FL in 2000 I spoke several times with the director of the Florida sales tax division that handles boats so as to "get it right". He informed me that if we left Florida in 10 days, (or checked into a state registered repair facility and left FL afterwards) and registered it in another state and sent him (the tax department) proof of the boat being out of Florida and of the other state's registration there would be no tax due.

He further explained that if we subsequently brought the boat back into FL after, if I recall correctly, 6 months, we could (should) register it in FL but the fact of having "met the sales tax requirement of another state" (even thought that was 0%) would mean no FL sales tax would be due.

So after 15 years we came back to FL and were not required to pay sales tax, just the normal annual registration fee ($200 or so).
The sales tax director said it was just like the thousands of people who move to Florida and bring their cars - if they come from a no- or low-tax state they do not have to pay the difference in the sales/use tax rate.

Craig Briggs SN68

Re: US State taxes

Craig Briggs

#44603

Mark,
We brought our US flagged boat back to the US, registered it in Florida and paid no sales/use tax, even though it had been registered in NH, which has 0% tax.

When we bought it in FL in 2000 I spoke several times with the director of the Florida sales tax division that handles boats so as to "get it right". He informed me that if we left Florida in 10 days, (or checked into a state registered repair facility and left FL afterwards) and registered it in another state and sent him (the tax department) proof of the boat being out of Florida and of the other state's registration there would be no tax due.

He further explained that if we subsequently brought the boat back into FL after, if I recall correctly, 6 months, we could (should) register it in FL but the fact of having "met the sales tax requirement of another state" (even thought that was 0%) would mean no FL sales tax would be due.

So after 15 years we came back to FL and were not required to pay sales tax, just the normal annual registration fee ($200 or so).
The sales tax director said it was just like the thousands of people who move to Florida and bring their cars - if they come from a no- or low-tax state they do not have to pay the difference in the sales/use tax rate.

Craig Briggs SN68

Re: US State taxes

Mark Erdos

#44602

Paul,

Since the boat is USA flagged and should you decide to take it to the USA, you will be required to pay Use tax (sales and use) in the state where the boat is located after a specific period of time unless you can prove an equal amount of sales and use tax was paid to another state. The state tax is independent of the US registration and homeport. The tax and state registration is normally due after a stay between 60 or 90 days and varies by state. There are two exceptions on the east coast: Delaware and Rhode Island are both tax free for boats. Florida has a limit on the amount of taxes charged of $18,000. North Carolina ($1500) and South Carolina ($300) have limits in the tax. However NC and SC charge property taxes on vessels located in the state but still these taxes can be significantly less than other east coast states.

Several cruisers we met in the Chesapeake Bay had vessel registrations in the tax friendly states. To avoid being snagged by MD or VA tax collectors, they moved their boats within the allotted timeframes. Basically they shuttled between MD and VA being sure to collect a receipt for a marina or boat fuel as proof of being there.

VA is the more friendly tax state in the Chesapeake verses Maryland with a 2% tax. However, this is only the state part. Some VA counties charge personal property tax on boats. I forget which counties but I recall some boaters moving their boats out of a county on a specific day/month to avoid the property assessment. A quick conversation with another boater in a VA marina will help.

A real pet peeve of mine: A boat pays sales and use tax in state, let’s say 5%. Then the owner of the boat moves to vessel to another state a few years later, registers the boat and the tax is 7%. The new state can require the difference of tax to be paid. If the vessel moves from a state where it paid personal property taxes, these taxes do not count as a credit toward the new states sales and use tax. The additional 2% is now due to the new state even though the vessel never changed ownership. Boats are subject to limits on how long they can stay in states without local registration. However, an RV can stay in the all states permanently so long as it is registered in one of the 50 US states. RVers register their RV in tax friendly state where renewals can be done by mail and avoid the mess we have to deal with. Rant over.

With best regards,

Mark

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Paul Cooper via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, March 3, 2019 10:41 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] US State taxes

The boat is registered US. But after further consideration we have decided not to bring the boat up to the US this year. Thanks for your replies and interest.

Paul

Re: Outhaul shaft removal

rossirossix4

#44601

Here are some pics of the puller that Amel uses at the Amel Caraibes Center in Martinique. Albon lent me the tool and it allowed me to remove the shaft with almost no effort. In anticipation of the event, I had been spraying a bit of CorrosionX down the shaft over a period of several months and routinely flushed it with fresh water when washing down the boat....might have helped--the shaft looked pretty good upon removal. The bolt that applies pressure to the end of the shaft doesn't actually screw into the shaft, acts more like a prop puller with a pilot hole. I think the bracket on the Amel SMs had changed over the years. Ours is a 2004.
Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI SM 429 Martinique

Re: US State taxes

eric freedman

#44600

Paul,

In what state is your boat registered?

Or is it just documented in the USA without a state registration?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

Show quoted text

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Paul Cooper via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2019 9:41 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] US State taxes

The boat is registered US. But after further consideration we have decided not to bring the boat up to the US this year. Thanks for your replies and interest.

Paul

Re: Window reveals refurb?

James Alton

#44599

Tom,

Since I have not yet used the 2 part Epifanes, I really can not say whether it will have more UV resistance than the single part varnish. I am glad to hear that you like the results after two years. So far I have not come across a bad Epifanes product. In the past I called tech support with questions about their products and I always ended up with an interesting and knowledgeable person to talk to. It might be worth giving this a try.

I can tell you that with the other two part varnishes I have used outside, that they all slowly turned from being clear to cloudy. Perhaps the Epifanes will not do this, please let me know!

I would not advise applying the single part over the two part since there could be bonding issues.

Best of luck to you and sorry that I could not fully answer your question.

James

SV Sueno

Maramu #220

Show quoted text

On Mar 3, 2019, at 9:14 PM, amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:

James
It seems the two part is holding up great after two years inside and out. I was thinking about coating the outside trim with single part epifanes better UV protection?

Thanks for your insights.

Tom S/Y Aphrodite

Maramu #125

On Mar 2, 2019, at 6:10 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Tom,

I have not used the two part Epifanes varnish so cannot answer that part of your question. I have however used other two part and single part varnishes on cabin soles over the years and might have some input that could be helpful. Awl grip makes a two part varnish called Awl-brite that is definitely more durable from a scratching perspective than any of the single part varnishes we have used. It also has one really nice feature in that you can sand and polish the surface, removing imperfections and also patching in perfectly when required using the same process. I don’t know if the Epifanes product has this same quality but it would be worth looking into as dings invariably occur over time. On the downside, there seems to be a correlation between the hardness of the varnish and how slippery it is. It seems that a softer varnish gives you a bit more traction which can make the difference between slipping and not. With the Awlgrip we had to add glass beads to some areas of the cabin sole which were angled to to improve the grip, this probably would not have been required with the single part. The glass beads roughen the surface but otherwise disappear since you can see through them. They can also be sanded down when the time comes for refinishing. The Awl-brite varnish is very toxic to apply, requiring good ventilation and a carbon mask at a minimum. The Awl-brite and every other 2 part varnish we have used so far tend to become cloudy over time if exposed to much UV. This is not a problem down below but in Florida resulted in stripping the fully exposed exterior varnishwork on a 54’ boat every 4 years or so, a huge job that could have been avoided with a good single part and regular recoating. On the other hand the The Awl-brite did not require nearly as much recoating, we would sometimes go 2 years between recoating. With varnishing there does not seem to be any perfect solution.

I have used numerous other Epifanes products, paints, primers and fillers and all have been top quality and worked as expected. I would be surprised if the 2 part varnish was not also an excellent product, please let me know what you find out.

Best,

James

SV Sueno

Maramu #220

On Mar 2, 2019, at 12:59 PM, amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:

Hi all has anyone tried the two part Epifanes I did the floors two years ago and they look great.
Tom S/Y Aphrodite

1983 Maramu #125

Guadeloupe

On Mar 2, 2019, at 8:32 AM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Miles,

We have revarnished the edges of some of the plywood cutouts for the ports/windows on Sueno with the Epifanes varnish and the match looks pretty good to the original varnish. The wood was sunburnt from UV exposure but it was only superficial and a little sanding restored the original colour. I don’t recall any delaminating wood on our boat so perhaps you had some leakage issues? It is certainly important to keep the edges of plywood well sealed. Epoxy would probably be the adhesive of choice to bond the layers back together. Just sand off all of the epoxy on the face of the cutout leaving only the epoxy in the joints before you varnish. The UV will still attack the epoxy in the glue joint but since it has some depth as compared to a thin coat it will last a long time. You can add some carbon or aluminum powder to increase the UV resistance if you don’t mind the colour. The plywood on Sueno is definitely a Mahogany, if I had to guess I would think is an African Mahogany but there are many different species that look similar. I was able to order Epifanes clear varnish through Amazon.it in Italy.

Best,

James

SV Sueno

Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 8:32 PM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:

Thanks James

I’ll stick to just varnish

I like to avoid mixing up epoxy when I can anyhow. 👍

At the very edges of some of the reveals there are areas where the veneer is peeling

I presume a good wood glue and clamping (somehow!) would be as good as anything and most likely leave a clear finish

I’ll look out for some epifanes. I believe the interior of the maramus is teak. Not sure how you choose to match but am presuming as clear as possible will be less visible vs darker will provide better UV protection ( for the reveals at least )

Many thanks all

Miles

Maramu 162

Grenada

On 1 Mar 2019, at 14:35, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Joel,

Selling the Loki was a difficult decision for us. This will be our fourth season with the Amel and we are both quite happy with the boat. Thanks to you, the two Bills and the many others that helped us in making our decision to purchase an Amel. I am glad to make a contribution where I can.

James and Joann

SV Sueno

Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 9:59 AM, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

All good advice James. No wonder you got an Amel after 40 years of varnishing wooden yachts. Loki’s are a treat for the eyes and deserve varnish. I can relate as the last big boat I owned with my brother before my first Amel was a Cheoy Lee Rhodes Reliant/Offshore 40 with about ten acres of varnish. That boat only leaked when it got wet…

Another negative thing about using a base coat of epoxy is that epoxy is much harder/stiffer/more brittle than most oil based varnish. Dropping a winch handle or the like usually results in the epoxy un-attaching itself from the wood. Also, where it gets really cold, I have seen all the epoxy base coat fracture which at best is unsightly and at worse means stripping it all to bare wood.

You need tactical nuclear weapons to get epoxy off teak.

          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869 Cell 954-812-2485

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 9:37 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Window reveals refurb?

My wife and I have restored and refinished wooden boats with lots of varnish over the past 40+ years. We have removed a lot of varnish was applied over epoxy by someone else. If your base coat fails, any finish applied on top also fails no matter how many coats of varnish you apply. The failure of the epoxy base coating starts by going milkly/opaque looking so even if the varnish is not peeling it begins to look bad enough that it should be stripped. My advice would be to never use epoxy under a clear finish since it does poorly with UV as compared a high quality marine varnish such as Epifanes. The longest lasting varnish that we found is the Epifanes though there could be others the we have not tried. The most critical part of a long lasting varnish job are the initial base coats. Cut your first coat 50% with thinner, the second 25% to get good penetration into the wood for the best bond. Varnish in good conditions so that the varnish cures properly, don’t rush the overcoating. Finally, always add your maintenance coats before the varnish looks like it needs it. Once the crazing starts, you have waited too long and the varnish will never look as nice or hold up as well. We stripped the exterior mahogany on our 1953 Loki Yawl in 1999 and refinished with Epifanes. The varnish has been recoated with two coats per season when the boat was North in Maine and Nova Scotia and 2-3 times per year when used in the tropics. The varnish work on the boat still looked amazing in 2018 when we sold the boat. Best of luck.

James

SV Sueno, Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 7:17 AM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:

Thanks very much guys

Yes I’ve been wondering whether to epoxy 1st or just the simpler direct varnish approach

All the very best

On 1 Mar 2019, at 06:45, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece

Re: US State taxes

Paul Cooper <paul.cooper74@...>

#44598

The boat is registered US. But after further consideration we have decided not to bring the boat up to the US this year. Thanks for your replies and interest.

Paul

Re: Prop shaft bearing

smiles bernard

#44597

Hi Rainer

We were next to Rock n Roll in Santa Cruz last year.

My kids and I came to admire her. Very nicely set up boat. I think the sharkis are great boats. We have had the pleasure of hanging out on a friends - also in Tenerife. Aneki (spelling?!)

Is the vibration constant or only at certain speeds ?

I had vibration on the prop shaft when surfing down waves on recent Atlantic crossing. Anything over 7 or 8kts roughly.

Then when we switched the motor on in Barbados we had what sounded initially like rough idle.

On inspection it was the engine mounts and alignment causing both issues

On last section of the crossing we had 4-5m seas and winds gusting up to 45 kts and I think the motion did the old mounts no favours.

We have just swapped out the engine mounts so hope that’s the last of it but as yet I’ve not hit speeds to test it properly

I’d guess alignment 1st

Does anyone have any experience of rewinding the prop shaft alternator?

I’m guessing ours has not been touched since new. It has been totally amazing on the long ocean passage. I can’t imagine why all boats don’t have them ! So interested in the reliability and service recommendations in prep for our return leg to UK in May.

Many thanks and all the best

Miles

Maramu 162

Show quoted text

On 3 Mar 2019, at 20:15, Peter Jaeger via Groups.Io <mallamok@...> wrote:

Hi Rainer
Welcom back. In 2014 I was a little bit too late for buying your SM.
Best
Peter
Wilson SM003/La Rochelle

Gesendet von Yahoo Mail für iPad

Am Freitag, März 1, 2019, 07:14 schrieb Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io <thelastoneever@...>:
Thank you gentlemen....

On 1. Mar 2019, at 15:43, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

On the Sharki, you must undo the motor mounts and lift the engine up about 20"/inches 50 cm in order to remove the propeller shaft as it is too long to fit as it hits the rudder skeg. It is an easy 6 hour job if nothing is badly rusted.
To remove the prop shaft/cutless bearing, remove the propeller, un-tighten the bolt holding the bearing in place on the side of the stern tube and use a pipe wrench or a chain wrench to rotate the cutless out. Easy one hour job.

All The Best, Joel

                       JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.
                                           THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE
                                   Office 954-462-5869 Cell 954-812-2485

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 6:07 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Prop shaft bearing

Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum

Re: Window reveals refurb?

amel46met

#44596

James

It seems the two part is holding up great after two years inside and out. I was thinking about coating the outside trim with single part epifanes better UV protection?

Thanks for your insights.

Tom S/Y Aphrodite

Maramu #125

Show quoted text

On Mar 2, 2019, at 6:10 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Tom,

I have not used the two part Epifanes varnish so cannot answer that part of your question. I have however used other two part and single part varnishes on cabin soles over the years and might have some input that could be helpful. Awl grip makes a two part varnish called Awl-brite that is definitely more durable from a scratching perspective than any of the single part varnishes we have used. It also has one really nice feature in that you can sand and polish the surface, removing imperfections and also patching in perfectly when required using the same process. I don’t know if the Epifanes product has this same quality but it would be worth looking into as dings invariably occur over time. On the downside, there seems to be a correlation between the hardness of the varnish and how slippery it is. It seems that a softer varnish gives you a bit more traction which can make the difference between slipping and not. With the Awlgrip we had to add glass beads to some areas of the cabin sole which were angled to to improve the grip, this probably would not have been required with the single part. The glass beads roughen the surface but otherwise disappear since you can see through them. They can also be sanded down when the time comes for refinishing. The Awl-brite varnish is very toxic to apply, requiring good ventilation and a carbon mask at a minimum. The Awl-brite and every other 2 part varnish we have used so far tend to become cloudy over time if exposed to much UV. This is not a problem down below but in Florida resulted in stripping the fully exposed exterior varnishwork on a 54’ boat every 4 years or so, a huge job that could have been avoided with a good single part and regular recoating. On the other hand the The Awl-brite did not require nearly as much recoating, we would sometimes go 2 years between recoating. With varnishing there does not seem to be any perfect solution.

I have used numerous other Epifanes products, paints, primers and fillers and all have been top quality and worked as expected. I would be surprised if the 2 part varnish was not also an excellent product, please let me know what you find out.

Best,

James

SV Sueno

Maramu #220

On Mar 2, 2019, at 12:59 PM, amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:

Hi all has anyone tried the two part Epifanes I did the floors two years ago and they look great.
Tom S/Y Aphrodite

1983 Maramu #125

Guadeloupe

On Mar 2, 2019, at 8:32 AM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Miles,

We have revarnished the edges of some of the plywood cutouts for the ports/windows on Sueno with the Epifanes varnish and the match looks pretty good to the original varnish. The wood was sunburnt from UV exposure but it was only superficial and a little sanding restored the original colour. I don’t recall any delaminating wood on our boat so perhaps you had some leakage issues? It is certainly important to keep the edges of plywood well sealed. Epoxy would probably be the adhesive of choice to bond the layers back together. Just sand off all of the epoxy on the face of the cutout leaving only the epoxy in the joints before you varnish. The UV will still attack the epoxy in the glue joint but since it has some depth as compared to a thin coat it will last a long time. You can add some carbon or aluminum powder to increase the UV resistance if you don’t mind the colour. The plywood on Sueno is definitely a Mahogany, if I had to guess I would think is an African Mahogany but there are many different species that look similar. I was able to order Epifanes clear varnish through Amazon.it in Italy.

Best,

James

SV Sueno

Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 8:32 PM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:

Thanks James

I’ll stick to just varnish

I like to avoid mixing up epoxy when I can anyhow. 👍

At the very edges of some of the reveals there are areas where the veneer is peeling

I presume a good wood glue and clamping (somehow!) would be as good as anything and most likely leave a clear finish

I’ll look out for some epifanes. I believe the interior of the maramus is teak. Not sure how you choose to match but am presuming as clear as possible will be less visible vs darker will provide better UV protection ( for the reveals at least )

Many thanks all

Miles

Maramu 162

Grenada

On 1 Mar 2019, at 14:35, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Joel,

Selling the Loki was a difficult decision for us. This will be our fourth season with the Amel and we are both quite happy with the boat. Thanks to you, the two Bills and the many others that helped us in making our decision to purchase an Amel. I am glad to make a contribution where I can.

James and Joann

SV Sueno

Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 9:59 AM, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

All good advice James. No wonder you got an Amel after 40 years of varnishing wooden yachts. Loki’s are a treat for the eyes and deserve varnish. I can relate as the last big boat I owned with my brother before my first Amel was a Cheoy Lee Rhodes Reliant/Offshore 40 with about ten acres of varnish. That boat only leaked when it got wet…

Another negative thing about using a base coat of epoxy is that epoxy is much harder/stiffer/more brittle than most oil based varnish. Dropping a winch handle or the like usually results in the epoxy un-attaching itself from the wood. Also, where it gets really cold, I have seen all the epoxy base coat fracture which at best is unsightly and at worse means stripping it all to bare wood.

You need tactical nuclear weapons to get epoxy off teak.

          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869 Cell 954-812-2485

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 9:37 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Window reveals refurb?

My wife and I have restored and refinished wooden boats with lots of varnish over the past 40+ years. We have removed a lot of varnish was applied over epoxy by someone else. If your base coat fails, any finish applied on top also fails no matter how many coats of varnish you apply. The failure of the epoxy base coating starts by going milkly/opaque looking so even if the varnish is not peeling it begins to look bad enough that it should be stripped. My advice would be to never use epoxy under a clear finish since it does poorly with UV as compared a high quality marine varnish such as Epifanes. The longest lasting varnish that we found is the Epifanes though there could be others the we have not tried. The most critical part of a long lasting varnish job are the initial base coats. Cut your first coat 50% with thinner, the second 25% to get good penetration into the wood for the best bond. Varnish in good conditions so that the varnish cures properly, don’t rush the overcoating. Finally, always add your maintenance coats before the varnish looks like it needs it. Once the crazing starts, you have waited too long and the varnish will never look as nice or hold up as well. We stripped the exterior mahogany on our 1953 Loki Yawl in 1999 and refinished with Epifanes. The varnish has been recoated with two coats per season when the boat was North in Maine and Nova Scotia and 2-3 times per year when used in the tropics. The varnish work on the boat still looked amazing in 2018 when we sold the boat. Best of luck.

James

SV Sueno, Maramu #220

On Mar 1, 2019, at 7:17 AM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:

Thanks very much guys

Yes I’ve been wondering whether to epoxy 1st or just the simpler direct varnish approach

All the very best

On 1 Mar 2019, at 06:45, Gerhard Mueller via Groups.Io <carcode@...> wrote:

Miles

Same here with a 1982 Sharki. I sanded and cleaned it and varnished the area. First varnish was very diluted to move the varnish deep into the dry wood.
Might be done again after some time.

Best Regards
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece

Re: Together again!

Mark Erdos

#44595

Cheers!

With best regards,

Mark

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of amelforme
Sent: Sunday, March 3, 2019 4:21 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Together again!

Hi Mark and Cindy. How cool is that!!? This deserves celebration so we will lift a glass your way during our sunset cocktail cruise here on Lake Huntley this evening.

All the Best, Joel

JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

Office 954-462-5869 Cell 954-812-2485

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From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mark Erdos
Sent: Sunday, March 3, 2019 12:37 PM
To: AmelYachtOwners@groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Together again!

[Edited Message Follows]

Together again after 20 years!

SM hull numbers 275 (Cream Puff) and 276 (Anahita) meet in Santa Marta Colombia are coincidentally docked together. A 20 year reunion since being manufactured together in La Rochelle, France.

With best regards,

Mark

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

Re: Prop shaft bearing

Peter Jaeger

#44594

Hi Rainer

Welcom back. In 2014 I was a little bit too late for buying your SM.

Best

Peter

Wilson SM003/La Rochelle

Gesendet von Yahoo Mail für iPad

Am Freitag, März 1, 2019, 07:14 schrieb Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io <thelastoneever@...>:

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Thank you gentlemen....

On 1. Mar 2019, at 15:43, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

On the Sharki, you must undo the motor mounts and lift the engine up about 20"/inches 50 cm in order to remove the propeller shaft as it is too long to fit as it hits the rudder skeg. It is an easy 6 hour job if nothing is badly rusted.
To remove the prop shaft/cutless bearing, remove the propeller, un-tighten the bolt holding the bearing in place on the side of the stern tube and use a pipe wrench or a chain wrench to rotate the cutless out. Easy one hour job.

All The Best, Joel

                       JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.
                                           THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE
                                   Office 954-462-5869 Cell 954-812-2485

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2019 6:07 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Prop shaft bearing

Hello Captains of Amels,
I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator...
How do I pull the propshaft?
Do I really have to lift the engine?
Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated....
Rainer Huthmacher
Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe...
It feels good to back in this great forum

Re: Together again!

amelforme

#44593

Hi Mark and Cindy. How cool is that!!? This deserves celebration so we will lift a glass your way during our sunset cocktail cruise here on Lake Huntley this evening.

All the Best, Joel

JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

Office 954-462-5869 Cell 954-812-2485

Show quoted text

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mark Erdos
Sent: Sunday, March 3, 2019 12:37 PM
To: AmelYachtOwners@groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Together again!

[Edited Message Follows]

Together again after 20 years!

SM hull numbers 275 (Cream Puff) and 276 (Anahita) meet in Santa Marta Colombia are coincidentally docked together. A 20 year reunion since being manufactured together in La Rochelle, France.

With best regards,

Mark

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

Together again!

Mark Erdos

#44592
Edited

Together again after 20 years!

SM hull numbers 275 (Cream Puff) and 276 (Anahita) meet in Santa Marta Colombia are coincidentally docked together. A 20 year reunion since being manufactured together in La Rochelle, France.

With best regards,

Mark

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

Re: Outhaul shaft removal

Jose Venegas <josegvenegas@...>

#44591

Guillaume,

Mine was probable in the same state as yours and I tried several ways to get it out without success. At the end I used the screw of a purchased extractor and had the rest fabricated. Be careful to protect the thread at the end of the shaft. I used a socket with external diameter just smaller than the shaft. Here are the pix I took. Feel free to reach me if you need additional explanations

Good luck

Jose

Ipanema SM2K 278

At Constitution Marian in Boston

and waiting to depart to warmer seas.

Re: US State taxes

Mark McGovern

#44590

Paul,

In Maryland you pay the sales tax when you register the boat with the Department of Natural Resources (DNR). The following is copied directly off the Maryland DNR website:

Your vessel, whether commercial or recreational, must be registered in Maryland if it is:

Equipped with any kind of primary or auxiliary mechanical propulsion; and
Used in Maryland most in a calendar year.

So as long as you can prove you use the boat somewhere else more than Maryland during the calendar year you do not have to register the boat in Maryland and thus, you won't have to pay the tax in Maryland.

Link here for more information: https://dnr.maryland.gov/boating/Pages/registration.aspx

-
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: crossing BVI to Florida.

Wolfgang Weber

#44589

Hello to the group and fair winds,

I am in the moment in Tortola BVI and have already made my plans for Puerto Rico and Dominican Republic.Perhaps I will leave the boat for 7 -10 days in the Marina Zar-par (safe?)

Now my question for the way to Florida. I planned Not to stop in Haiti. Where to go in the Bahamas with Amel 54.OR go to Cuba ?

Thank you very much Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54#162

Re: Goiot hatch seals

smiles bernard

#44588

Thanks very much Bill that’s very helpful indeed

I’ll get some from Budget plus some silicon grease to help protect those in better shape

All the very best

Miles

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On 3 Mar 2019, at 10:09, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

The attached may help you.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970
My Calendar

Yacht School

On Sun, Mar 3, 2019 at 8:02 AM smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello Amelians
Does anyone know where to source replacement seals for the goiot port lights/ hatches as per the attached photo?
Mine above the galley is starting to need very firm closing to avoid leaks
Many thanks in advance
Miles
Maramu 162

<Goiot Hatch and Port Gaskets.jpg>

Re: Goiot hatch seals

CW Bill Rouse

#44587
Edited

The attached may help you.

Best,

Bill Rouse

720 Winnie St.

Galveston, Texas 77550

832-380-4970

My Calendar

Yacht School

Show quoted text

On Sun, Mar 3, 2019 at 8:02 AM smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hello Amelians
Does anyone know where to source replacement seals for the goiot port lights/ hatches as per the attached photo?
Mine above the galley is starting to need very firm closing to avoid leaks
Many thanks in advance
Miles
Maramu 162

Goiot hatch seals

smiles bernard

#44586

Hello Amelians
Does anyone know where to source replacement seals for the goiot port lights/ hatches as per the attached photo?
Mine above the galley is starting to need very firm closing to avoid leaks
Many thanks in advance
Miles
Maramu 162

Re: US State taxes

Mark Erdos

#44585

Paul,

Impossible to answer this without details of where the boat is registered. Is it USA or foreign flagged? Are you a resident of the USA?

With best regards,

Mark

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Paul Cooper via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, March 3, 2019 7:29 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] US State taxes

Hello Amelians,

We have been planning on sailing our boat-- purchased from a French owner-- to the US. I am concerned about being hit for a large state sales tax if we leave the boat in one place (Maryland) for 2-3 months.

Anyone know the lowdown on this and how to avoid paying a huge tax?

thanks in advance,

Paul
SM238 Maracuya
Caribbean