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Re: Window reveals refurb?
James Alton
Tom,
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I have not used the two part Epifanes varnish so cannot answer that part of your question. I have however used other two part and single part varnishes on cabin soles over the years and might have some input that could be helpful. Awl grip makes a two part varnish called Awl-brite that is definitely more durable from a scratching perspective than any of the single part varnishes we have used. It also has one really nice feature in that you can sand and polish the surface, removing imperfections and also patching in perfectly when required using the same process. I don’t know if the Epifanes product has this same quality but it would be worth looking into as dings invariably occur over time. On the downside, there seems to be a correlation between the hardness of the varnish and how slippery it is. It seems that a softer varnish gives you a bit more traction which can make the difference between slipping and not. With the Awlgrip we had to add glass beads to some areas of the cabin sole which were angled to to improve the grip, this probably would not have been required with the single part. The glass beads roughen the surface but otherwise disappear since you can see through them. They can also be sanded down when the time comes for refinishing. The Awl-brite varnish is very toxic to apply, requiring good ventilation and a carbon mask at a minimum. The Awl-brite and every other 2 part varnish we have used so far tend to become cloudy over time if exposed to much UV. This is not a problem down below but in Florida resulted in stripping the fully exposed exterior varnishwork on a 54’ boat every 4 years or so, a huge job that could have been avoided with a good single part and regular recoating. On the other hand the The Awl-brite did not require nearly as much recoating, we would sometimes go 2 years between recoating. With varnishing there does not seem to be any perfect solution. I have used numerous other Epifanes products, paints, primers and fillers and all have been top quality and worked as expected. I would be surprised if the 2 part varnish was not also an excellent product, please let me know what you find out. Best, James SV Sueno Maramu #220
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Re: Prop shaft bearing
James Alton
Dennis,
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Thanks for your input. The previous owner removed the large shaft mounted pulley before I bought my boat which made me wonder why this was done. I am very happy to hear that properly setup up the Amel shaft generator does not vibrate as I am viewing this device as a great source of power on long passages. Best, James
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54
james Hosford
Saw a 54 with s hard dodger and fiberglass arch. Both looked well done and wondered if they were maybe an option from Amel I've never heard abt. Not sure abt the look but think maybe not having canvas would be more practical . Wondered what everyones thoughts were?
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Crew opprtunity
Would you like to cross the Atlantic? We looking for a crew for the crossing between Bermuda and The Azores departure around June first, weather permitting. Would prefere a couples with some experience who can manage a watch, but also contribute to the atmsophere aboard. Are you thinking of buying a SM, or have an Amel but lack the experience of a longer crossing this make be a good opportunity. You find more about us on our blogg sykerpa.com.
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259
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Re: Prop shaft bearing
sbmesasailor
I have the same experience as Giorgio -no vibrations resulting from the alternator, just some belt noise when propeller free-wheeling. Dennis
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Stuffing Box Repair- SM2K #422
Thomas Kleman
I like this site best when someone poses a problem, then updates the group on progress/lack thereof on the solution. Here is my update.
My stuffing box nut was down to the last quarter turn and I was hauled out doing a bottom job. I thought I would just repack the stuffing box and the problem would be solved (hopefully). First, I took the quadrant off. This took 6 hours because it was completely rusted to rudder post. The rust was underneath, and had not been visible when looking down on the quadrant. After escalating force was applied I ended up using a puller tool which I layed across the top of the rudder post and pulled on the non-threaded holes that hold the opposing quadrant section. It was unbelievable how much force this required and the quadrant didn't "pop" like a propeller but rather fought every millimeter of the way. Not a bad idea to spray penetrating oil on this junction as a maintenance routine. After removing the nut and the old packing material I repacked it with 3 Amel supplied pre-cut rings. The nut would not engage with the threads, despite the material being very well packed down. If I took one ring out, the nut would engage..........barely. I reached out to this site as well as Alban at Amel Caraibes.......he said 2 rings would "probably be OK".....not a ringing endorsement.......and suggested a rethreading exercise which I only partially understood how to operationalize. Based on Eric's (Kimberlite) suggestion on this site, I fabricated a "2nd story" onto my stuffing box. This involved taking the plastic nut, protecting it with teflon tape, and then wrapping about 10 mm of it with fiberglass around the threads. This created a kind of washer that was threaded on the inside to fit the nut. This washer ended up being 10 mm tall with walls that were 20 mm thick.......and very strong. I considered using resin only, which would have allowed me to make a mold for dipping the nut into.......but opted for the messier (but I think stronger) fabrication method of wrapping strips of cloth impregnated resin around it. It was a windy day in the cockpit and there were times during the fabrication phase that I regretted my choice. Anyway, the dried finished product was far less precise than I had imagined in my head when doing the planning, however I was able to sand it into the perfect shape. The stuffing box nut turned perfectly inside my new "washer". I mounted the washer atop the stuffing box with 5200 and screws and am now able to put 4-5 rings of stuffing in the box. No leaks. Thanks, Eric. Knowing what I know now about this system and project, I wish there had been a source for the part which I created. This would definitely have been worth buying and having on the boat. The most surprising thing about this whole exercise was the difficulty in removing the quadrant. The boat is a 2004 and the stuffing box had leaked (or better weeped) only twice.......and yet the rudder post and quadrant were seized very tightly, and rusted in a way that was largely invisible to the eye. Anyway, everything is good now and once again thank you to the 8 folks who responded to my initial posting and helped me get this done. Thomas Kleman SV L'ORIENT SM2K #422 Colon, Panama
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Re: Window reveals refurb?
amel46met
Hi all has anyone tried the two part Epifanes I did the floors two years ago and they look great.
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Tom S/Y Aphrodite
1983 Maramu #125
Guadeloupe
On Mar 2, 2019, at 8:32 AM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:
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Re: Prop shaft bearing
amelforme
Hi Rainer and I must admit to being a little confused, which is not at all uncommon for me. When you say “Dripping Volvo shaft seal” are you referring to the stuffing box in the engine room where the propeller shaft exits the engine room? You mention” Volvo shaft seal”. Did you replace the conventional greased flax stuffing box the boat was delivered with when new with something from Volvo? If you have an original and 30++ year old Cutless/stern bearing, it could cause the problems you mention. When you grab the propeller and forcibly move it up and down and then side to side, is there a lot of movement? When you look at where the shaft comes out, behind the propeller, can you see the black nitral rubber that is inside the bronze sleeve around the propeller shaft? Perhaps some photos of the shaft inside the engine room and the engine room shaft seal as well as the cutless/stern tube bearing would be helpful. Again, if only the cutless/stern bearing has failed, you do not need to move the engine at all. Replacing the cutless/stern bearing is done entirely from the outside of the boat.
JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C. THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE Office 954-462-5869 Cell 954-812-2485
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, March 2, 2019 8:41 AM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Prop shaft bearing
Rainer,
Really sorry to hear about the vibrations and the new oil leak. I am not sure that a failed stern tube bearing would cause the amount of vibration that you are reporting, especially under sail? I have run a boat once with a completely failed stern tube bearing and while it was noisy the vibration was not terrible. Did you try pulling and pushing sideways on the shaft to see if there was any noticeable play when you checked the prop? Do you know if the balance was checked on the 25CM pulley that you installed? You might also check the run out on the shaft near the coupling with a last word type indicator while rotating the shaft by hand. Or based on how bad the vibration is you might just place a straight edge close to the shaft near the coupling and rotate it. The run out might be bad enough that you can see the gap opening and closing as the shaft is rotated. The only other thing that I can think of would be that the faces of the sides of the pulley you installed were not perfectly parallel. You could check this by removing the coupling bolts, checking the alignment and then rotating the pulley 180 degrees and measuring again, you should get the same readings of course. I hope that you find the problem, best of luck.
Thanks to the Sharki #1 owner who reports that he has never had vibrations with his Amel alternator setup. I am very anxious to set this up on Sueno ahead of the Atlantic crossing.
James
SV Sueno Maramu #220
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Re: Prop shaft bearing
James Alton
Rainer,
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Really sorry to hear about the vibrations and the new oil leak. I am not sure that a failed stern tube bearing would cause the amount of vibration that you are reporting, especially under sail? I have run a boat once with a completely failed stern tube bearing and while it was noisy the vibration was not terrible. Did you try pulling and pushing sideways on the shaft to see if there was any noticeable play when you checked the prop? Do you know if the balance was checked on the 25CM pulley that you installed? You might also check the run out on the shaft near the coupling with a last word type indicator while rotating the shaft by hand. Or based on how bad the vibration is you might just place a straight edge close to the shaft near the coupling and rotate it. The run out might be bad enough that you can see the gap opening and closing as the shaft is rotated. The only other thing that I can think of would be that the faces of the sides of the pulley you installed were not perfectly parallel. You could check this by removing the coupling bolts, checking the alignment and then rotating the pulley 180 degrees and measuring again, you should get the same readings of course. I hope that you find the problem, best of luck. Thanks to the Sharki #1 owner who reports that he has never had vibrations with his Amel alternator setup. I am very anxious to set this up on Sueno ahead of the Atlantic crossing. James SV Sueno Maramu #220
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Re: Prop shaft bearing
Rainer Huthmacher
Thank you all for the feedback,
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Unfortunately it’s not the alignment, which would have been quite easy to fix, nor the engine feet. The problem started after I installed a prop shaft alternator with a 25 cm pulley on the shaft. To do this I had to move the prop shaft 2cm to the back. Since then I have a dripping Volvo shaft seal , heavy vibrations under power or under sail and whistling loud noise over 2000rpm or if I sail over 6knots. I removed the alternator again, but noise and vibrations are still there. I checked the prop but it looks fine. I had several mechanics look into it (which I usually never have, as I do everything myself), but none could tell me for sure what’s wrong. So I only can imagine my shaft bearing is failing after almost 40 years. I would hate lifting the engine, as the Sharki has not an engine room like the SM, and I’m afraid it’s gonna take me much more than 6 hours as it would take Joel Potter😜 My idea now is to manufacture a tube split in half which would fit exactly around the shaft and try to hammer the bearing out from the inside...Anyone ever done this? Thanx already Rainer Huthmacher, Sharki Rock’n Roll
On 2 Mar 2019, at 05:04, Giorgio Ardrizzi <giorgio.ardrizzi@...> wrote:
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Re: Window reveals refurb?
James Alton
Miles,
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We have revarnished the edges of some of the plywood cutouts for the ports/windows on Sueno with the Epifanes varnish and the match looks pretty good to the original varnish. The wood was sunburnt from UV exposure but it was only superficial and a little sanding restored the original colour. I don’t recall any delaminating wood on our boat so perhaps you had some leakage issues? It is certainly important to keep the edges of plywood well sealed. Epoxy would probably be the adhesive of choice to bond the layers back together. Just sand off all of the epoxy on the face of the cutout leaving only the epoxy in the joints before you varnish. The UV will still attack the epoxy in the glue joint but since it has some depth as compared to a thin coat it will last a long time. You can add some carbon or aluminum powder to increase the UV resistance if you don’t mind the colour. The plywood on Sueno is definitely a Mahogany, if I had to guess I would think is an African Mahogany but there are many different species that look similar. I was able to order Epifanes clear varnish through Amazon.it in Italy. Best, James SV Sueno Maramu #220
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Outhaul shaft removal
eric freedman
I would start by removing the screw in the L shaped part if the outhaul pin of the Anderson winch.
I would then buy a long grade 10 cap screw probably 3-4 inches. Remove the bolt and washers from the bottom of the shaft . Then screw in the cap screw about an inch . Then try pounding on the head of the bolt with a hand held sledge hammer. We call it a lump hammer.
In my case it didn’t work, The key was just rusted in place.
I removed the boom turned it upside down on some 4x4 dunnage on the deck I loaded the shaft down with PB blaster and let it sit for a few days. I then went to town on it with a full size sledge hammer. Not exactly a surgery. It is important to hit the bolt squarely tapping strongly only raising the hammer 3 or 4 inches. Finesse with a sledge hammer.. You don’t want to break off the bolt., or do damage to the gearbox. Once it moves a few thousands of an inch it will come out easily.
I sanded the rust off the shaft with a dremel tool and used the side of a dremel cut off blade to remove a few thousands of an inch. off of the 3 sides of the key. I now use a liberal amount of never-seez on the shaft every 6 months. A 5 minute job.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018M5T4LU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I keep the cap screw taped to the can of Never-Seez –convenient place to keep it. Good luck. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: carpathia3 via groups.io [mailto:carpathia3@...]
Hi Eric,
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Re: Additional solar location?
ericmeury <ericmeury@...>
Amel Santorin.
We are finishing up our arch and have a hydrovane. 600 Watts of Solar on the ARCH. 200 on a new hard bimini. (Also have a solar hot water panel)...if i didn't have that i could probably fit 400 Watts here. and 200 Watts in sunpower flexible panels behind the mast. Amp air half way up the mizzen (been there since first owner in 1993) and might install a fourwinds at the top of the mizzen
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Re: Prop shaft bearing
I have been using the shaft alternator for 30 years on my Sharki (#1 - 1980) and I've never had vibrations, just a little bit of belt noise. In 2008 I replaced the Perkins 4108 with a Yanmar 54 hp and I also changed the propeller shaft and adapted the alternator that continues to go very well despite its 40 years of life Maybe yours is an alignment problem.
Il Ven 1 Mar 2019, 15:05 James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2=aol.com@groups.io> ha scritto:
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Re: Window reveals refurb?
smiles bernard
Thanks James
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I’ll stick to just varnish I like to avoid mixing up epoxy when I can anyhow. 👍 At the very edges of some of the reveals there are areas where the veneer is peeling I presume a good wood glue and clamping (somehow!) would be as good as anything and most likely leave a clear finish I’ll look out for some epifanes. I believe the interior of the maramus is teak. Not sure how you choose to match but am presuming as clear as possible will be less visible vs darker will provide better UV protection ( for the reveals at least ) Many thanks all Miles Maramu 162 Grenada
On 1 Mar 2019, at 14:35, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:
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Re: Prop shaft bearing
James Alton
Hello,
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To those that have used the Amel shaft generator on their straight shaft Maramu or Sharki, do these tend to cause shaft vibration or was there just some problem with Yin Yang? The shaft drive pulley was removed from my boat before I bought it and I have been planning to reinstall it this summer. Thanks, James SV Sueno Maramu #220
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Re: Window reveals refurb?
James Alton
Joel,
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Selling the Loki was a difficult decision for us. This will be our fourth season with the Amel and we are both quite happy with the boat. Thanks to you, the two Bills and the many others that helped us in making our decision to purchase an Amel. I am glad to make a contribution where I can. James and Joann SV Sueno Maramu #220
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Re: Prop shaft bearing
Steve Leeds
You may want to check your shaft alignment. Steve Leeds Yacht MACCABEE Sharki #121
On Friday, March 1, 2019, 6:06:47 AM EST, Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io <thelastoneever@...> wrote:
Hello Captains of Amels, I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator... How do I pull the propshaft? Do I really have to lift the engine? Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated.... Rainer Huthmacher Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe... It feels good to back in this great forum
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Re: Prop shaft bearing
Steve Leeds
HI Rainer, I've changed my cutlass bearing many times in the past (the previous owner was using a 1 3/8" cutlass bearing when he should have used 35mm! I did the same for several years until I changed the shaft to 1 3/8". I think I've only changed it once since then. I have 6800 hours on the original Perkins). My cutlass bearing extends back from the boat enough to be able to "grab" it with a puller with the shaft still in place. After removing the propeller, first remove the set screws, drill dimples in the cutlass bearing for the puller to hold onto and pull it out. I have a custom puller the previous owner of my boat made up from a steel plumbing pipe that just fit over the cutlass bearing. I'll try to remember to take a photo of it on my next visit to MACCABEE. To remove the shaft, you must lift the engine high enough to bring the shaft under the engine. Other than the coupling, You probably don't need to disconnect anything else from the engine. I lay a 6" x 6" wood beam across the seats on each side of the engine compartment, with a piece of 2" x 6" board under each end of the 6 x 6 to spread the load and use a chain lift chained to the 6 x 6 to raise the engine. I may have removed the engine cover for clearance -- I can't remember. I have only done it once in the mid 90's. Regards, Steve Leeds Yacht MACCABEE Sharki #121
On Friday, March 1, 2019, 8:28:02 AM EST, Warren Traill <trailz@...> wrote:
Hi Rainer. Although I haven’t replace my cutlass bearing yet, my understanding is that you remove the propeller, undo the alum key on the shaft and pull off the cutlass bearing. Hope this helps. Regards, Warren Manon2 Sharki #15 -----Original Message----- From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Rainer Huthmacher via Groups.Io Sent: Friday, 1 March 2019 7:07 PM To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Prop shaft bearing Hello Captains of Amels, I have to change the cutless bearing of my Sharki, because of vibrations under engine wich occurred after I was installing a shaft alternator... How do I pull the propshaft? Do I really have to lift the engine? Any suggestions of a Sharki, Maramu or Mango owner would be greatly appreciated.... Rainer Huthmacher Former owner of SM#69 “Yin Yang”,now owner of Sharki#83 “Rock’n Roll”,currently in Teneriffe... It feels good to back in this great forum
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Re: Prop shaft bearing
Rainer Huthmacher
Thank you gentlemen....
On 1. Mar 2019, at 15:43, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:
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