Date   

Re: NMEA 2000 to NMEA 0183

Paul Osterberg
 

Thank you Brent The  New unit does not have many settings one can do,
Respons level: Performance, Cruising or Leisure.
Rudder Damping 
And vessel typ 
I have tried to figure out how to set them but they do not make much difference, except for Respons level in leisure the course deviation seams to be less, I had guessed for the opposite
Paul
SY Kerpa SM#259




Re: Volvo D2-75 Repower

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Bill,

 Good point. One less thing to worry about.



Ian


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Sent: 20 February 2019 11:28
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D2-75 Repower
 
Ian,

Maybe you "glossed over" the timing belt advantage. Without the timing belt, there is no timing belt change required.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Wed, Feb 20, 2019 at 5:21 AM ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@...> <ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:
Hi Paul,

 We have about 30 hours on our D2-75. Its a good fit. The guy who installed it originally worked with the Brit who designed the TMD22 so he knows both engines well. The TMD was designed for road use and then marinised whereas the D2-75 was designed as a marine engine. Neater and more accessible. No lack of power compared to the TMD22. It is marginally noisier as it is not belt driven. Wonderfully clean exhaust. I expect fuel consumption to be the same.
The secret switch used to interrupt the power to the switch board but now interrupts the power to the starter. Volvo insist  that this engine does  not need galvanic isolation  but I like the belt and braces approach of the original so will resolve that--pending that, I have fitted the Autoprop with the  zinc cap that Autoprop supply.

Early days, but we are very pleased.

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Greece

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Paul Cooper via Groups.Io <paul.cooper74=yahoo.com@groups.io>
Sent: 19 February 2019 02:01
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D2-75 Repower
 
Any SMs with a Volvo D2-75 repower care to comment on their experience?  Good?  Problems? Power adequate?  How did you handle the galvanic isolation issue?

Thanks,

Paul C.
SM238 "Maracuya"
Martinique


Re: Volvo D2-75 Repower

Paul Cooper <paul.cooper74@...>
 

Thanks for those comments.  I will put that into my decision-making.

Paul C.
SM238 "Maracuya"
Martinique


Re: Eumania dishwasher water inlet solenoid

Paul Cooper <paul.cooper74@...>
 

My dishwasher also has a continuous dribble from the inlet valve, presumably due to a defective solenoid valve.  We have to turn the water valve on to wash and turn it off at the end of the cycle to keep the washer from accumulating water.

So that's great news you found a possible replacement.  Please let us know if it fits.

Hey just noticed where you are!  Maybe my wife and I could stop by sometime?  

Paul C.
SM238 Maracuya
LE MARIN ANCHORAGE, soon to be at dock


Re: NMEA 2000 to NMEA 0183

Brent Cameron
 

Paul, it sounds like your autopilot gain and response settings are off.  I’m not familiar with your exact unit but most autopilots have settings for Wind Trim, Rudder Gain, Counter Rudder and Response.  They are basically just little programable logic controllers (PLC’s) that act to minimimize the difference between the input value (course, heading, wind angle, etc) and the set point. To do this, they NEED small pertubutions and then based on the size of the deviation, they apply a correction. For us, those perturbations are usually waves!  

Anyway, that correction takes three main forms. The most oblivious is the Rudder Gain. I’m really going to dumb it down (there are text books written on control algorithms) but you can think of gain like boosting the effect of the correction (i.e. how much rudder to use to get it back on course after the pertubution). Too little and it won’t work. Too much and you over correct and that can set up a nasty cycle of the boat wandering all over the place and never getting back on course. This isn’t exactly right but for your purposes, the analogy works. The second main variable is the Counter Rudder which you can think of as how big an opposite movement of the helm is required to stop the turning motion.  Too big, and the boat overshoots and wanders all over the place.  The balance between the Rudder Gain and Counter Rudder is crucial to goood course keeping. The two settings should be pretty close to each other and certainly no more than two settings apart.  If you were helming the boat, you wouldn’t wind the wheel from crank to crank to adjust for small deviations... you’d use the smallest adjustment you could, so again, the goal is to find the minimum setting that will get the boat back on course.  But it is also tied into the Response. 

For the Response, you can think of that as how many corrections per minute it uses to get the boat back on course. Think of it as if you were making a correction how often you’d want to wait to try the next one. The higher the Response the faster it will act but again it can be set too high so that the rudder is moving all the time which of course really runs down your battery but also causes the boat to hunt. If you watch a good pilot or helmsman, he/she won’t slavishly turn the wheel on every wave but rather averages out the boat’s course to minimize the steering but maintain heading. You want your autopilot to do that. In light conditions, you should knock the response way down to conserve power and reduce hunting but in frisky conditions and especially when steering on wind angle, you’ll need to run it up. A lot of people set it and leave it alone but unless your autopilot has auto response (I’ve seen that the B&G ones change the response based on boat speed which can be a crude approximation), you should adjust it for the conditions.  (The rudder gain and counter rudder are usually autoset during provisioning and then not played with much after that as they are really tied into how well the boat handles excepting if it changes as it gets more frisky). 

The wind trim function allows you to set the sensitivity when acting in wind mode. This is often over-looked but if you are struggling to keep your wind angle, try this rather than the response.  A high value results in the boat following every gust and shift which might be wanted during light conditions with flat water upwind or on downwind on spinnaker but you want a low value when the winds and waves come up on a reach. Most people just leave them at default but that doesn’t optimize your boat’s or your autopilot’s performance. 

Finally, a pet peeve of mine, is to really watch your boat’s Rudder Angle when on autopilot. These autopilots all have Rudder Angle displays but you can also see it by marking your wheel at top dead centre and noting when it is off. I used to be a commercial pilot and it drove me absolutely bonkers to watch other pilots flop on the autopilot and then sit there obliviously when the autopilot keeps adding trim as the plane changed speeds and conditions. It’s the same in our boats. When the wind changes, the sails become out of balance and if you’ve got much rudder on at all, it basically means you’re dragging a big brake in the water. It is literally screaming at you to adjust the sails!  A wee bit of rudder helps us keep the boat stable but that’s really a WEE bit. I hated flying with guys who gripped the wheel like a baseball bat because they couldn’t feel the airplane and they’d constantly overcontrol it and we’d be flinging ourselves across the skies. As a former instructor, I used to teach that you only needed to hold it by the tips of your fingers and feel the pressures. You can’t do that if the plane or boat is out of trim. Same for your autopilot. Get the boat in trim, and your rudder actions (and battery usage) will go WAY down. 

So, to net it out. Make a note of any settings before you change them so you can easily get back to them if needed. Next time there is no wind and you are motoring on a long passage with not much wind,  try playing with the Rudder Gain, Response and Counter Rudder settings (one at a time) while watching your wake. That will give you a really good idea of the effect of each. 

When setting Response, take it off autopilot and hand steer it. Note how often you are correcting it and then set the Response to match that (assuming that you aren’t one of those people who steers the boat from lock to lock on every wave). 

Finally, and most importantly, remember that the autopilot can only respond to HISTORY. It can’t predict what is going to happen, it just responds to what did happen. That’s YOUR job. Knowing how they work and when to mess with the settings is important to optimize your boat’s (and your autopilot’s) performance. 

Again, people that understand control theory are probably screaming under their breath about calculus and integrals but for the layperson, these analogies work. 


Brent Cameron, Future SM2K owner

--
Brent Cameron

Future Super Maramu 2000 Owner & Amel Owner Registry Moderator

Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada


Re: Masse - and Masse + lights

karkauai
 

That’s a great pearl of wisdom, Olivier!  Merci beaucoup!!

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Feb 20, 2019, at 7:00 AM, Beaute Olivier via Groups.Io <atlanticyachtsurvey@...> wrote:

Hello Derick,

the main cause (which I often see) for the macerator motor to get contaminated with water (and therefore create a contact between 24V and the ground) is that the white plastic casing is often mounted wrong, with drain holes on each side, instead of up and down.
With drain holes on each side, the water leaking from the bowl through the lip seal remains permanently in contact with the motor's casing and corrodes it, leading to a leak from 24V (+ or -) to the ground.
I will try to attach a picture of a wrong mounted macerator plastic casing.

Have a good day

Olivier

<DSC01615.JPG>


Re: NMEA 2000 to NMEA 0183

Paul Osterberg
 

Thank you Bill I have to look into that solution I do not know how often I will use the old unit so have to judge the cost and effort for the need/usefulness.
Paul on SY Kerpa


Re: NMEA 2000 to NMEA 0183

Paul Osterberg
 

Hello JP, 
I can'y say I'm very happy with my new ACU 400 unit, it works well going up wind but as soon the waves are behind of the beam, it over steer all the time, and I have sometimes to take over to hand steer, no not pleased at all. talked to a boat neighbor yesterday and he have similar problem. Therefor yesterday I installed my old unit, so now I can easily switch between the old and the new unit as well as between linear drive and rotary drive. be interested to see which one that perform the best. the only drawback with the old unit I do not get the wind info.
Paul SY Kerpa SM#259


Re: SM Goiot Hatch Models & Lense Colors

karkauai
 

Hi Barry,
I just cut the sealant with a utility knife from the top and pried it out with a screwdriver, cutting remaining sealant from the bottom as it came up.

There’s a great product made by 3M called Adhesive Remover, Citrus Base that works great for getting the sealant remnants cleaned out before reglazing.


Another good product for this is Marine Formula by DeBond Corp


It’s really hard to remove silicone, but this stuff will help you get it down to bare metal with just a little patience.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy.

On Feb 19, 2019, at 5:05 PM, seagasm <seagasm@...> wrote:

Kent, how did you remove the original plexiglass from the frame?

Barry
Tradewinds III SM #171


Re: Eumania dishwasher water inlet solenoid

Gary Wells
 

I just got a replacement 3 valve solenoid for our Eumania washing machine as well. 2 out of the three solenoids leaked, filling the tub with water .. Coincidentally, the manual shutoff valve had a small leak as well so we had to stay on top of it and always turn the fresh water pump off if we were leaving for any length if time (a habit we still like).

Anyway, the new valve has the same specs and fits perfectly; the only caveat was that it has the ''push-in-to-lock' type fittings rather than '''slip-on-and-hose-clamp' barbs. It requires an stiffer and slightly smaller hose so I'm going to have to MacGyver it a bit, methinks.  I'll be glad to have it solved.   Other than that, the 20 year old machine still works fine :)
.
Gary W.
S/V Adagio,. sm209
St. Thomas


Re: Masse - and Masse + lights

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Derick,

the main cause (which I often see) for the macerator motor to get contaminated with water (and therefore create a contact between 24V and the ground) is that the white plastic casing is often mounted wrong, with drain holes on each side, instead of up and down.
With drain holes on each side, the water leaking from the bowl through the lip seal remains permanently in contact with the motor's casing and corrodes it, leading to a leak from 24V (+ or -) to the ground.
I will try to attach a picture of a wrong mounted macerator plastic casing.

Have a good day

Olivier


Re: Volvo D2-75 Repower

 

Ian,

Maybe you "glossed over" the timing belt advantage. Without the timing belt, there is no timing belt change required.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Wed, Feb 20, 2019 at 5:21 AM ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@...> <ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:
Hi Paul,

 We have about 30 hours on our D2-75. Its a good fit. The guy who installed it originally worked with the Brit who designed the TMD22 so he knows both engines well. The TMD was designed for road use and then marinised whereas the D2-75 was designed as a marine engine. Neater and more accessible. No lack of power compared to the TMD22. It is marginally noisier as it is not belt driven. Wonderfully clean exhaust. I expect fuel consumption to be the same.
The secret switch used to interrupt the power to the switch board but now interrupts the power to the starter. Volvo insist  that this engine does  not need galvanic isolation  but I like the belt and braces approach of the original so will resolve that--pending that, I have fitted the Autoprop with the  zinc cap that Autoprop supply.

Early days, but we are very pleased.

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Greece

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Paul Cooper via Groups.Io <paul.cooper74=yahoo.com@groups.io>
Sent: 19 February 2019 02:01
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D2-75 Repower
 
Any SMs with a Volvo D2-75 repower care to comment on their experience?  Good?  Problems? Power adequate?  How did you handle the galvanic isolation issue?

Thanks,

Paul C.
SM238 "Maracuya"
Martinique


Re: Masse - and Masse + lights

 

T
In the circumstance you describe, the light indicates that there is a connection (resistance) between either the positive or negative and the case of the macerator pump. That "connection" is usually saltwater leaking past the seal on the pump. It is an "early warning system" that your seal is leaking and your pump will fail. A switch such as you suggest will certainly be a "see no evil" solution.🙈😀 You could accomplish the same by disconnection the yellow/green wire from the case, but, don't you really want to know when you have a seal leak.
 
Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Tue, Feb 19, 2019 at 8:25 PM <derickgates@...> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]

I have been diligently checking the Masse- and + lights in the companionway. Over the past 5 years when one of the lights go on (usually the Masse - ) I go and disconnect the power lines to the forward or aft head and sure enough, the leak of current to ground stops and I replace that Jabsco pump. Recently the Masse light did not go out until I had unplugged both the heads at the same time, indicating to me that both the head pumps were leaking to ground.

It occurs to me that instead of replacing the pump, I could just install a toggle switch to the offending brown or blue wire, so that I can turn the circuit on when anyone uses the head, and turn it off in the interim.  Then I could continue to use the offending pump until it dies a natural death.

Am I fooling myself or would installing that switch stop the current leakage to the Amel bonding system?

Derick Gates
SM2K #400 Brava



Re: Volvo D2-75 Repower

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Paul,

 We have about 30 hours on our D2-75. Its a good fit. The guy who installed it originally worked with the Brit who designed the TMD22 so he knows both engines well. The TMD was designed for road use and then marinised whereas the D2-75 was designed as a marine engine. Neater and more accessible. No lack of power compared to the TMD22. It is marginally noisier as it is not belt driven. Wonderfully clean exhaust. I expect fuel consumption to be the same.
The secret switch used to interrupt the power to the switch board but now interrupts the power to the starter. Volvo insist  that this engine does  not need galvanic isolation  but I like the belt and braces approach of the original so will resolve that--pending that, I have fitted the Autoprop with the  zinc cap that Autoprop supply.

Early days, but we are very pleased.

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Greece


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Paul Cooper via Groups.Io <paul.cooper74@...>
Sent: 19 February 2019 02:01
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D2-75 Repower
 
Any SMs with a Volvo D2-75 repower care to comment on their experience?  Good?  Problems? Power adequate?  How did you handle the galvanic isolation issue?

Thanks,

Paul C.
SM238 "Maracuya"
Martinique


Re: GALLEY FAUCET REPLACEMENT OLDER MARAMU

Aras Grinius
 

I think it looks great Steve.   Fortunately I’ve only had to replace the o-rings thus far.  
--
Aras Grinius
SV FIASCO
Sharki #163


Re: Rubber caps for Lofrans switches

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Miles,

 The BEP one looks even closer to the original. They have a UK distributor. I might get a couple to try.
 Thanks!

Ian


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...>
Sent: 19 February 2019 23:30
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Rubber caps for Lofrans switches
 
Hi Ian 
Does yours look like this
If so mine has a 20mm ID which is the critical dimension I think along with height 

My cover and it’s spare are now cracked so I have also been hunting for the spare and struggling. I have emailed Aquafax in the uk as they apparently supply BEP marine parts but I’m not actually 100% it’s the same piece as the specs are not clear on the BEP website. 
Looks like the vital parts covers are well worth a go!

All the best

Miles
 


On 19 Feb 2019, at 11:19, ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@...> <ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:

Thanks!

Ian

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Ian <parkianj@...>
Sent: 19 February 2019 13:41
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Rubber caps for Lofrans switches
 
Ian
Just measured mine. I believe the Lorraine’s on the Santorin is the same size albeit a 12v version. My rubber caps are 30mm across the base and 20mm high.

Ian




Re: NMEA 2000 to NMEA 0183

Cathy & Guillaume
 

Hi Paul,

In addition to the Actisense device, you can also check the Simrad AT10 for two way communication 0183 - 2000, a little less expensive (at least in Europe). I just bought it (with an additional Simnet - 2000 cable) and will install it on my next visit to our boat. This was recommended by Jose, from s/v Ipanema, and is working well for him.

Best,

Guillaume

s/v Carpathia III – SM2K #293


Re: NMEA 2000 to NMEA 0183

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Paul,

At this point our boat is ALMOST fully switched over to NMEA2000. But like you, our  backup autopilot is an older model that only speaks NMEA0183. 

We use an Actisense NGW-1 to convert the data on the NMEA2000 bus to a format compatible with NMEA0183. It translates the data on the new bus for our computer, and our old autopilot. It has worked well for us. 

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Georgetown, Bahamas


Re: Rubber caps for Lofrans switches

smiles bernard
 

Hi Ian 
Does yours look like this
If so mine has a 20mm ID which is the critical dimension I think along with height 

My cover and it’s spare are now cracked so I have also been hunting for the spare and struggling. I have emailed Aquafax in the uk as they apparently supply BEP marine parts but I’m not actually 100% it’s the same piece as the specs are not clear on the BEP website. 
Looks like the vital parts covers are well worth a go!

All the best

Miles
 


On 19 Feb 2019, at 11:19, ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@...> <ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:

Thanks!

Ian

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Ian <parkianj@...>
Sent: 19 February 2019 13:41
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Rubber caps for Lofrans switches
 
Ian
Just measured mine. I believe the Lorraine’s on the Santorin is the same size albeit a 12v version. My rubber caps are 30mm across the base and 20mm high.

Ian




Re: NMEA 2000 to NMEA 0183

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello Paul,

We have an ACP 400 with Lecombe & Schmidt hydraulic drive; we are very pleased as it is much smoother and steers the boat well through the a single P70 control.(I have a spare P70 if needed). A 3 way switch allows selection of Hyd/Elec or off.

All functions are avail through the P70 for both units.

GL.

JP Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM 007




On 20 Feb 2019, at 10:53, Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote:

I have replaced all my instruments to Raymarine and also a new ACU 400 Autopilot computer, They all do communicate via NMEA 2000, and it work OK.  I can steer in wind vane mode or in track mode with the new ACU 400 computer.
I have my old Autohelm autopilot installed, and connected that one via NMEA 0183 to the Raymarine multi functional display/plotter, Now it can steer in Track mode i.e steer towards way point. More important is to steer according to wind angle. but do not understand how I get wind information from my NMEA 2000 back bone, I had hoped that the wind information should be communicated via my plotter who is connected to the backbone and show all kind of info from my NME 2000 instrument, and connected to the Autohelm via NMEA 0183.
Anyone know how to fix this?
Paul on SY Kerpa ASM#259

11681 - 11700 of 56054