Re: Engine room lining on Amel 54
Scott SV Tengah
I had the same problem and found this stuff in Spain.
It's insulation material with very sticky backing and a "mesh" through it to prevent tearing. It's foam but feels a bit like neoprene. Certainly makes things look a lot better but as the original black film coating starts peeling off, parts of the added covering start coming off. I think if I find a way to anchor it to the foam substrate in the same way that upholstery is secured to a couch, it may be perfect. This photo is what I'm thinking. https://img-aws.ehowcdn.com/350x235p/s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/contentlab.studiod/getty/261051e9af6048798eb32f1a6f934f78.jpg Scott SV Tengah Amel 54 2007
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Re: New Group
Craig,
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Lone Star now Trippin is doing great now in St Thomas I love this boat she was obviously well cared for Cheers 🍻 Courtney 54 #101 Trippin
On Mar 19, 2019, at 2:23 PM, Craig Scott <sv.lonestar@...> wrote:
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Re: Dual Pre Filters for Fuel
Germain Jean-Pierre
Hi Alan, Ooops. You are correct. In our case, we run both the genset and the Volvo on one filter. I change over whenever I note grunge or when changing the little element filter at the top. Mounted on a SS plate installed on the stbd side of the engine bearer… lined up to the aft portion of the gearbox. Works very well. Jean-Pierre Germain, ELEUTHERA, SM007
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Oil amount for MD22 / Prima M50
Herbert Lackner
after cleaning all diesel filters and before cleaning up the engine room I made an oil / filter change. This time I made sure that all the oil comes out, including the small amount at the bottom (1/4 liter) that the pump does not suck out. according to the engine data sheet the engine needs ~ 6 liters of oil, but when filling in 5 liters I am already above the "high mark" at the dipstick. With previous oil changes I always thought that the rest of the oil will be somewhere inside the engine, at the bottom where the pump does not reach it. But this time I am pretty sure that all is out. I expected to fill in at least 5,5 liters,
I see the following possibilities: 1.) I have the wrong dipstick? I have Perkins Part Number 3178E012 (it is printed on the stick). 2.) The data sheet is for the MD22/MD22L/TMD22, but I have the MD22A. Maybe the MD22A needs less oil (hurth gearbox...)... 3.) I would have to check the oil-level without inserting the dipstick complete (like for the gear-oil, but as far as I know the engine oil level has to be checked with the dipstick fully pressed in) Can anyone with the same engine (Santorin) tell how much oil is needed for a complete oil change inlcuding filter or check what kind of dipstick is there (number, length) any other ideas? thx, herbert, SN120, Costa Rica PS: diesel cleaning project is in progress. I think the water came in through the tank-vent while washing the boat. now all seems to be fine, test-run in waves tomorrow. interesting: the volvo water separator (first element the tank) did not filter out all water, the Racor filter (after the water separator) did that really efficent. Only a small amount of water found its way to the filter on the engine. thx all for you recommendations and help. update will follow
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Bow locker floors/hawse pipe replacement project recap
Thomas Kleman
Since so many of you offered me great guidance in the two threads my project spawned, I thought I owed everyone a quick update (and of course about 100 beers).
About a month ago while working in the port bow locker, the floor buckled (plywood separating from the fiberglass) and my project began. While we all know Amels don't have design flaws, a few "undocumented system features" emerged that I wanted to address. Specifically: 1) Bow locker floors needed to be robust and glassed on BOTH sides 2) There needed to be access for a normal sized person into the chain locker, because.... 3) There also needed to be access into what I'll call the chain locker bilge, the glassed-in grating next to the bulkhead where all the rust, mud, and other things accumulate from the chain and clog the chain locker drain 4) The hawse pipe needed to be corrosion proof and not terminate next to unprotected wood 5) The back starboard bolt on the windlass needed to be accessible (vs. fiberglassed over) and the rusted out steel flange needed to be replaced by something corrosion proof as well. I'm aware that others have had some version of this problem and looked at it differently.....some don't have this problem at all. Nevertheless this was my design criteria. After the demolition phase, I chose 3/4 inch marine plywood and double-glassed both sides as well as the ends. After leaving a 2 inch fiberglass lip (the underlying plywood fell off just by pulling), I used two cardboard templates. The wood was cut with a taper to conform to the hull angle (or better said, an attempt was made to do this). After glassing the wood panels (each floors were made from a single piece of wood- the port floor barely fit through the opening) the access door was cut into the center of the port locker floor. The locker's remaining fiberglass lip and 4 inches above it were sanded to bare fiberglass. The floor was placed on top of a thick resin mix resting on the lip. Then gaps were filled and filleted. Finally, the floor was tabbed to the locker wall. The hawse pipe header was constructed out of molded resin and grinded/dremeled to the shape I needed to hold 4 inch PVC pipe, and to serve as a plate to hold the back starboard windlass bolt. It was then glued/screwed under the windlass; the bolt was accessible, but barely. The bottom of the PVC pipe was fitted with both a flange (to hold in to the bottom of the floor) and a protective ring of 1/2 inch star-board over the flange to take any chain impact. The paint is drying in both lockers as I write this. What would I do differently/what did I learn along the way ? 1) The port locker floor cutout is tricky. Amel glassed the top side of the plywood after they laid it down. On SM #422, this gave it a subtle curve. When I double-glassed both sides of the form I made, I created a super rigid 2- dimensional structure. Fitting it on the lip (which conformed to the curved non-glassed plywood) was quite challenging as it weighed quite a bit and I was working mostly alone. About 90 pct of the floor is flush against the lip (the other 10% has a slight gap that I had to fill between the lip and the wood from underneath). This was less than pleasant. 2) I used 3 gallons of resin on this project. Along the way I got a lot better at knowing when/how to thicken the resin for different applications. 3) I also fabricated the hawse pipe header myself (after one "mulligan"). This is a super useful skill I wish I had learned years ago. Anyway, I have a few loose ends to tie up. I understand that Amel does this for $3,600 or something like that. I think that makes my wage rate about $1.55 per hour after materials are subtracted. All in all, a great learning experience and I'm satisfied that the boat is better now. And once again thanks to all for the advice. I used (and needed) almost all of it. Thomas Kleman SV L'ORIENT SM2K #422 Shelter Bay Marina, Panama
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Re: Paying for our group through Advertising
eric freedman
Hi Bill, Who is the supplier? Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
A new poll has been created: Our Amel Yacht Owners Group is hosted on the Groups.io platform. I pay an annual cost for this, which I agreed to cover for 5 years. We were approached by a supplier that many of us have used. This supplier wants to advertise in our group. Almost 30 of us have used this supplier. We are considering allowing this supplier to advertise on the header of the Wiki page. Click on Wiki to view the area. 1. Yes, I agree if it will pay the cost of hosting
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Re: K1 & K2 Location - Amel 54
Faial Livingston
Hi Bill,
Have attached all the drawings in reference to electrical that I have been looking at to the folder you created. Regards, Faial Cataya - Amel 54
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Re: New Group
Craig Scott
To Bill and the other Moderators,
Just looked around the new website and it is a significant improvement from the yahoo site. Makes me wish I was still sailing Lone Star. Its so much easier to access all the information. Craig Scott formerly A54#101
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Re: Paying for our group through Advertising
Craig, OK, I thought that this would be OK with you and most folks. The Wiki is what you go to when you want to do something in our group's website, but need instructions. Please go back to the POLL and change your vote. I think that you can get to the poll either by clicking on the original email, or possibly by clicking on this link:
On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 12:49 PM Craig Briggs via Groups.Io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote: Bill,
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Re: Paying for our group through Advertising
Bill,
Sorry - although you did say it, I didn't "get' the part about the ad only appearing when you click "Wiki". You've been immersed in this changeover so it's familiar to you. I have never clicked on Wiki, nor do I have any idea why I'd ever click it. So, if somebody wants to pay for an ad I'll never see, hey, I'm all in !!! Cheers, Craig
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Re: Lee Sails or equivalent
smiles bernard
Hi Dennis
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Thanks very much for this information Very helpful and clarifies my thinking I now have good quotes for Q and UK sailmakers So thanks for everyone’s help - very much appreciated All the best Miles
On 19 Mar 2019, at 13:09, sbmesasailor via Groups.Io <sbmesasailor@...> wrote:
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Re: sailing from Martinique to Newport
smiles bernard
Hi Miles
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We will be visiting Martenique in the next few weeks in our old Maramu. We are hoping to pay a visit to Amel there and stock up with good food ! Hope to see you there and best of luck with the crew hunt Cheers Miles
On 19 Mar 2019, at 11:48, Miles <milesbid@...> wrote:
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Re: Lee Sails or equivalent
sbmesasailor
Hi Miles, I had Lee Sails make my replacements before heading out on our round the world adventure. The good news is they were cheap and they wore well (still being used after 8 years of exposure). The bad news is as Bill has reported, they were cut poorly and needed modification upon installation. I was installing a lot of other critical equipment on the boat at the time and couldn't justify properly made/custom made sails. I will not use Lee Sails for my next replacement. Dennis Johns Libertad Maramu #121
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Re: Paying for our group through Advertising
You should be able to see results now
On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 11:31 AM CW Bill Rouse via Groups.Io <brouse=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: Engine room lining on Amel 54
Theo, I am not so sure that the 50 has the same insulation material, even though it looks similar. You can verify by asking your contact at Amel. For several reasons, I believe that the material was changed sometime during the 55 production. Is that engine room photo a random Amel 50 in production, or is that Poloma in production?
On Tue, Mar 19, 2019 at 11:18 AM s/v Paloma <sailingpaloma1@...> wrote: Great... I'm surprised that Amel did not improved the material.
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Re: Engine room lining on Amel 54
Great... I'm surprised that Amel did not improved the material.
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The Poll Results so far Re: Paying for our group through Advertising
The Poll Results so far are 88% Yes, 12%, No
I apologize that I did not set the results as visible. I tried to modify the Poll, but do not seem to have that option. --
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Re: Dual Pre Filters for Fuel
amelforme
Glad to help Woody. That’s the one and I have seen it installed on the majority of SM 53’s and 54’s that have Racor dual filters. Some folks go larger, like the 900 and 1000 series for the much larger/able to stop more crud without blockage filter media but I think it is a bit of overkill to go larger. The longer you own your Amel, the more inclined you will be not to change things. Amel gets it right way more often than they don’t. Leave the filters mounted low so head pressure on a near empty tank will be enough to ‘flood’ the filters and make priming/bleeding easy. Electric lift pumps that get used a time or two fail often and then you are in a bit of a pickle. Everything on a boat needs two things, maintenance AND exercise. Try it the way Amel designed it and change it only after you have serviced the filters several times. I’m betting you won’t. By the way although I am a salesman, I have owned three new Amel’s in my name and had several more provided to me by the Amel Shipyard, all used as demonstration boats for the North American market. I know the boats well and performed all the service on them that did not require a specialist. Part of the fun, actually.
Hope this is helpful and enjoy your Amel
JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C. THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE Office 954-462-5869 Cell 954-812-2485
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Alan "Woody" Wood
Thanks for that Joel.. is this the model you mean..?
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Re: Paying for our group through Advertising
James Alton
Bill,
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I don’t object to Wiki advertising in the area shown at the top of the help page and will place my vote accordingly. I would however be against adding any kind of pop up ads or any other type of advertising of that nature. If this idea is voted down by the group, I am interested in directly helping to support the cost of running the forum so long as the amount is not a large amount. Best, James SV Sueno Maramu #220
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sailing from Martinique to Newport
Miles
Hello Amelians, past Amelians, and future Amelians.
On 31 May, I intend to sail my Amel SM, Ladybug, back to Newport, RI from Le Marin, Martinique. I am looking for one or two crew to join me. I watched the boat being built in 1998. I have sailed it about 60,000 miles. It is in perfect condition. Please contact me if you are interested. milesbid@... Regards, Miles S/Y Ladybug, sm216, Le Marin, Martinique
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