Date   

Re: SAILING TO FLORIDA FROM VENEZUELA

Mark Erdos
 

Alex,

 

An additional thought: Look at this website or app for planning your trips on the USA coast. It has local bridge names so  you can hail them to open, marinas/fuel, anchorages, and hazards. The hazards include shoaling areas, missing markers etc. www.activecaptain.com

 

I stand corrected on the airdraft of the Maramu. I should have looked at your boat type more closely. Regardless, the standard height for fixed bridges over the ICW is 65’.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alejandro Paquin
Sent: Tuesday, July 2, 2019 10:12 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] SAILING TO FLORIDA FROM VENEZUELA

 

I am considering sailing up to Florida early December, starting from my home port of La Guaira, Venezuela. I don´t think I would stop in Cuba in principle, but maybe Jamaica. Can anyone provide some tips and advice on a proposed route? Best place for US Port of entry and formalities with a foreign flag vessel and crew. What to expect with US Customs. Also any tips on sailing into the ICW in the Miami- Aventura area? Draft and bridges for example. Also, I don not have any holding tanks onbard, is this an issue to consider?
I´m thinking of heading south again in March or April 2020
--
Alex Paquin
S/V " SIMPATICO"
Amel Maramu
Hull #94, 1981


Re: Poor Anchor Chain Maintenance

James Sterling
 

I've learned many things from this boat.  The original angular anchor chain washdown attachment is missing and probably no longer made.  One could convert the line to fresh water but I'm told that the original wash pump did not have a pressure switch so putting a hand sprayer on it or one that doesn't would pop a breaker.  The shortest distance between two points for us was to use our zero G waterhose we keep onboard.  Put quick connects on it and attached it to the vertical cockpit shower valve under the helm seat.  The hose will reach the entire boat for washing off boat salt and my wife uses a hand sprayer to wash the anchor chain and anchor as it comes up.  Then it's stowed away.  The fresh water pump has a pressure switch on it so no worries.  It's not super high pressure but it's sufficient.   The hawse pipe has been plugged with a piece of foam rubber insulation around the chain.  We learned that lesson after 14 hours of 40knt winds and 10ft seas a 1 1/2 seconds apart.  Every couple of seconds we had our nose under the water submarining through the waves.   First time in my life I've ever gotten really sea sick.


Re: Poor Anchor Chain Maintenance

Arlo
 

Stiff brush avery couple of days while anchored in heavy growth sreas will keep that from happening. Regarding the rust, great incentive to wash down with fresh water when hauling anchor and to pull all the chain out 2x annually! Thanks for sharing so we can avoid that headache


Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

Craig Briggs
 

Good question Danny - would hate to loose an RO Membrane to chlorine destruction.
Points to consider:
  • Chlorine dissipates naturally over time - slower in a closed tank, though. So don't flush your water maker for a month or so after tank cleaning (just use it frequently).
  • Vitamin C or ascorbic acid neutralizes chlorine totally. Add a bunch. 2 pounds for 20 bucks.  (Maybe combine Orange Juice with the Vodka?)
  • Don't guess - get a swimming pool test kit and see how much chlorine you've got before, during and after cleaning the tank.
  • Replace your charcoal filter early and often but especially before your first back-flush after cleaning the tank.
Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris


Re: Poor Anchor Chain Maintenance

Paul Brown
 

Re-galvanising is a good option when there are signs of rusting and I found it economical

Regards Paul 


On 3 Jul 2019, at 8:47 pm, karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai@...> wrote:

James, I am sure that we aren’t the only two to have experienced this debacle.  I am going to pass my nickname “Rusty” on to you officially until the next person admits to dealing with the same problem.

I recommend cutting the floor out of the bow locker to access the chain locker.  Everyone will eventually need to do this anyway and it will make removing the ball of rusty chain a 1/2 day job, and allow access for yearly cleaning.

When you think it’s time to turn the chain end for end, my advice is to have it re-galvanized.

Kent
Kristy
SM243

On Jul 3, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Chuck_Kim_Joy <clacey9@...> wrote:

Great suggestions. One more. We anchored all over the Caribbean this season. Sometimes as long as 10 days in one spot. In Prickly bay Grenada we saw the worst fouling of chain. 2 inch thick growth on about 60 feet of chain. The worst smelling goup you've ever encountered. We we're 12 days in one spot. We could do nothing but sail with it to Trinidad and remove all chain power wash and disinfect the chain locker. It will never be the same neither will we. 
All the best 
Chuck 
Joy #388
Trinidad 

On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 1:10 PM Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi James:  

WOW!! If anyone needed additional impetus to take care of their chain (in addition to Kent on Kristi's story), you have provided it.  

May I make a couple of additional suggestions that have stood me in good stead for the last 18 years of my SM ownership (80% in Caribbean waters):
1.  Convert the anchor wash down system to fresh water.
2.  Install a fresh water deck wash down fitting (T'ed off with a valve from the anchor wash down line in the port forward locker).  Every time you wash down the deck, direct some fresh water down the hawse pipe to douse the "pile" with some fresh water. 
3.  Make sure to plug the hawse pipe when sailing to prevent salt water flooding in there. 
4.  Pay out all the chain when going on the hard or at least twice per year.

Thanks for sharing, and "motivating" us to be careful with this. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver, M.D.
s/v Liahona 
Amel SM 2000 Hull #335
Puerto Del Rey  Marina, Puerto Rico


Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

 

Barry,

Alcohol is a common disinfectant. The biggest issue is access to the 3 compartments in the SM and 54, especially if the SM or 54 has Salon Dining Seat Refrigeration.
 
Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 2:38 PM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,
I was told to clean out the tank from the opening on top. After doing a clean with a sponge then I also have used Vodka, have about 100 liters of  water then pour in 4 liters of Vodka, let it sit for a few hours and then fill with fresh water. 
Has anybody else used Vodka?

Best
Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Sicily


On Jul 3, 2019, at 19:49, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Stefan,

I remember my first years on BeBe. I seemed to do many things the hard way and some things the wrong way. It was a difficult and sometimes costly learning period. I am sure that everyone will join me in wishing you well with your 54.

To gain access to all 3 inspection ports on your A-54 is a very difficult task. Especially removing underseat refrigerator/freezer that I believe I see in the photo.

The three inspection ports for the 3 sections of the tank are:
Under the forward-facing refrigerator
Under the underseat refrigerator/freezer
Under the floor in the galley (shown in photo below).
image.png
If I were you, I would chemically clean/disinfect the freshwater tank via one of the ports...the easy one...the one under the floor.
1. To the freshwater water tank, add 2 liters of "household bleach" which is typically either 5.25 percent (“regular strength”) Chlorine
2. Fill the water tank with freshwater.
3. Allow the tank water with Chlorine to stand for 24-72 hours
4. Pump all of the water out of the freshwater tank using a submersible water pump through the middle inspection port.
5. Fill and pump-out 2 more times.
6. The appearance of the center patrician will mirror the other two.
<image.png>

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 


On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>


Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Bill,

Woud that amount of flushing be suficient to get the chorine levels down enough to prevent damage to the water maker membranes when back flushing with tank water?. I have read that a miniscule ppm can destroy them. I know we have a carbon filter between the water tank and the watermaker pump but I dont trust it. Accordingly I have put nothing but water maker water in my tanks for many years. I removed the freezer last year and did a full top to bottom scrub of the inside of the tank.

Regards

Danny

On 04 July 2019 at 05:49 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Stefan,

I remember my first years on BeBe. I seemed to do many things the hard way and some things the wrong way. It was a difficult and sometimes costly learning period. I am sure that everyone will join me in wishing you well with your 54.

To gain access to all 3 inspection ports on your A-54 is a very difficult task. Especially removing underseat refrigerator/freezer that I believe I see in the photo.

The three inspection ports for the 3 sections of the tank are:
Under the forward-facing refrigerator
Under the underseat refrigerator/freezer
Under the floor in the galley (shown in photo below).
image.png
If I were you, I would chemically clean/disinfect the freshwater tank via one of the ports...the easy one...the one under the floor.
1. To the freshwater water tank, add 2 liters of "household bleach" which is typically either 5.25 percent (“regular strength”) Chlorine
2. Fill the water tank with freshwater.
3. Allow the tank water with Chlorine to stand for 24-72 hours
4. Pump all of the water out of the freshwater tank using a submersible water pump through the middle inspection port.
5. Fill and pump-out 2 more times.
6. The appearance of the center patrician will mirror the other two.
image.png

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 

 

On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert < mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>

 

 


Re: Poor Anchor Chain Maintenance

karkauai
 

James, I am sure that we aren’t the only two to have experienced this debacle.  I am going to pass my nickname “Rusty” on to you officially until the next person admits to dealing with the same problem.

I recommend cutting the floor out of the bow locker to access the chain locker.  Everyone will eventually need to do this anyway and it will make removing the ball of rusty chain a 1/2 day job, and allow access for yearly cleaning.

When you think it’s time to turn the chain end for end, my advice is to have it re-galvanized.

Kent
Kristy
SM243

On Jul 3, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Chuck_Kim_Joy <clacey9@...> wrote:

Great suggestions. One more. We anchored all over the Caribbean this season. Sometimes as long as 10 days in one spot. In Prickly bay Grenada we saw the worst fouling of chain. 2 inch thick growth on about 60 feet of chain. The worst smelling goup you've ever encountered. We we're 12 days in one spot. We could do nothing but sail with it to Trinidad and remove all chain power wash and disinfect the chain locker. It will never be the same neither will we. 
All the best 
Chuck 
Joy #388
Trinidad 

On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 1:10 PM Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi James:  

WOW!! If anyone needed additional impetus to take care of their chain (in addition to Kent on Kristi's story), you have provided it.  

May I make a couple of additional suggestions that have stood me in good stead for the last 18 years of my SM ownership (80% in Caribbean waters):
1.  Convert the anchor wash down system to fresh water.
2.  Install a fresh water deck wash down fitting (T'ed off with a valve from the anchor wash down line in the port forward locker).  Every time you wash down the deck, direct some fresh water down the hawse pipe to douse the "pile" with some fresh water. 
3.  Make sure to plug the hawse pipe when sailing to prevent salt water flooding in there. 
4.  Pay out all the chain when going on the hard or at least twice per year.

Thanks for sharing, and "motivating" us to be careful with this. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver, M.D.
s/v Liahona 
Amel SM 2000 Hull #335
Puerto Del Rey  Marina, Puerto Rico


Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

Paul Brown
 

Yes, but only with fresh orange juice and lots of ice, I wake up and my tank remains an issue 

Paul 


On 3 Jul 2019, at 8:38 pm, Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry@...> wrote:

Hi Bill,
I was told to clean out the tank from the opening on top. After doing a clean with a sponge then I also have used Vodka, have about 100 liters of  water then pour in 4 liters of Vodka, let it sit for a few hours and then fill with fresh water. 
Has anybody else used Vodka?

Best
Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Sicily


On Jul 3, 2019, at 19:49, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Stefan,

I remember my first years on BeBe. I seemed to do many things the hard way and some things the wrong way. It was a difficult and sometimes costly learning period. I am sure that everyone will join me in wishing you well with your 54.

To gain access to all 3 inspection ports on your A-54 is a very difficult task. Especially removing underseat refrigerator/freezer that I believe I see in the photo.

The three inspection ports for the 3 sections of the tank are:
Under the forward-facing refrigerator
Under the underseat refrigerator/freezer
Under the floor in the galley (shown in photo below).
image.png
If I were you, I would chemically clean/disinfect the freshwater tank via one of the ports...the easy one...the one under the floor.
1. To the freshwater water tank, add 2 liters of "household bleach" which is typically either 5.25 percent (“regular strength”) Chlorine
2. Fill the water tank with freshwater.
3. Allow the tank water with Chlorine to stand for 24-72 hours
4. Pump all of the water out of the freshwater tank using a submersible water pump through the middle inspection port.
5. Fill and pump-out 2 more times.
6. The appearance of the center patrician will mirror the other two.
<image.png>

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 


On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>


Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

karkauai
 

I tried power washing, vinegar, and  peroxide...all to no avail.

On Kristy, two liters of bleach didn’t touch it.  I used  4 gallons and left it overnight for ~15 hours...it killed everything.  Be sure you top the tanks up until the water is touching the top of the tanks to kill what ever is lurking there.

I am looking into an ozone solution to keep the tanks fresh.  I’ll report when I’ve had it installed for a while.

Kent & Iris
Kristy
SM243

On Jul 3, 2019, at 1:49 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Stefan,

I remember my first years on BeBe. I seemed to do many things the hard way and some things the wrong way. It was a difficult and sometimes costly learning period. I am sure that everyone will join me in wishing you well with your 54.

To gain access to all 3 inspection ports on your A-54 is a very difficult task. Especially removing underseat refrigerator/freezer that I believe I see in the photo.

The three inspection ports for the 3 sections of the tank are:
Under the forward-facing refrigerator
Under the underseat refrigerator/freezer
Under the floor in the galley (shown in photo below).
<image.png>
If I were you, I would chemically clean/disinfect the freshwater tank via one of the ports...the easy one...the one under the floor.
1. To the freshwater water tank, add 2 liters of "household bleach" which is typically either 5.25 percent (“regular strength”) Chlorine
2. Fill the water tank with freshwater.
3. Allow the tank water with Chlorine to stand for 24-72 hours
4. Pump all of the water out of the freshwater tank using a submersible water pump through the middle inspection port.
5. Fill and pump-out 2 more times.
6. The appearance of the center patrician will mirror the other two.
<image.png>

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 


On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>


Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

Barry Connor
 

Hi Bill,
I was told to clean out the tank from the opening on top. After doing a clean with a sponge then I also have used Vodka, have about 100 liters of  water then pour in 4 liters of Vodka, let it sit for a few hours and then fill with fresh water. 
Has anybody else used Vodka?

Best
Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Sicily


On Jul 3, 2019, at 19:49, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Stefan,

I remember my first years on BeBe. I seemed to do many things the hard way and some things the wrong way. It was a difficult and sometimes costly learning period. I am sure that everyone will join me in wishing you well with your 54.

To gain access to all 3 inspection ports on your A-54 is a very difficult task. Especially removing underseat refrigerator/freezer that I believe I see in the photo.

The three inspection ports for the 3 sections of the tank are:
Under the forward-facing refrigerator
Under the underseat refrigerator/freezer
Under the floor in the galley (shown in photo below).
image.png
If I were you, I would chemically clean/disinfect the freshwater tank via one of the ports...the easy one...the one under the floor.
1. To the freshwater water tank, add 2 liters of "household bleach" which is typically either 5.25 percent (“regular strength”) Chlorine
2. Fill the water tank with freshwater.
3. Allow the tank water with Chlorine to stand for 24-72 hours
4. Pump all of the water out of the freshwater tank using a submersible water pump through the middle inspection port.
5. Fill and pump-out 2 more times.
6. The appearance of the center patrician will mirror the other two.
<image.png>

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 


On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>


Re: Mastervolt alternator overcharging

Paul Brown
 

+31 20 342 21 32 this gets you to reception the lady if you ask kindly should transfer you if he has time, his name is Michelle I believe,

Some times he has to call you back

I had issues last week when my MV alternator whodunnit not connect to the MasterBus and traced it to a corroded connection, can happen had the start of the season it appears 

All the best


On 3 Jul 2019, at 7:39 pm, Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313@...> wrote:

Thanks Paul.  Do you have a phone number?  


Re: Mastervolt alternator overcharging

Joerg Esdorn
 

Thanks Paul.  Do you have a phone number?  


Re: Mastervolt alternator overcharging

Joerg Esdorn
 

Thanks Bill.  Great minds think alike.  My next to do was to reprogram the regulator!  Temporary fix only but I agree that there must be a loose connection somewhere.  I will also call Mastervolt.  


Re: Mastervolt alternator overcharging

Paul Brown
 

Hi Joerg, I have call mastervolt head office and spoke with Michele a technician who is generally very helpful for information, he is on leave until the 8th of July I believe, this is one option 

Regards Paul 


On 3 Jul 2019, at 6:25 pm, Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313@...> wrote:

On my 55, I have a 110A/24v Mastervolt alternator for the house bank and the alpha pro regulator.  I’ve had the battery temp alarm come on several times now because the regulator does not switch from Bulk to absorption.  On my voltmeter on the panel, voltage is 30-31V and charge rate goes up and down quickly from 10-40A, all with the batteries full after days on shore charger.   I checked out the regulator with the Masteradjust software and the sense and battery voltage was just below the 28.5V for the switch to absorption.   So the regulator is seeing 2-2.5V less than what the batteries have - I checked the voltmeter with my multitester.   At the suggestion of Pochon, I just replaced the regulator but that wasn’t the problem. 
Any idea what could be wrong would be much app!   

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem
just left Barcelona for Valencia


Re: Mastervolt alternator overcharging

 

Joerg,

That's what I thought when you first started having overheat alarms in your 55 battery area. The Mastervolt alternator is continuing to charge, already charged batteries, causing heat in the battery area. Pochon's suggestion to change the regulator is logical, but I am surprised that they did not check the voltage at the bank and at the regulator to ensure that they were the same.

I am not an electrician: My guess is that either the regulator settings are wrong, the regulator is defective, or there is resistance in the wire and connections between the actual battery bank and the regulator, which is lowering the voltage "seen" by the regulator and "fooling" the regulator to continue charging. 

My non-electrician suggestion: It will be a tedious process checking between both. I believe that you will find the most likely connections near and on the excite relay for the alternator. loosen each connection and use CorrosionX before retightening. Make sure that any crimp connectors are done correctly and have crimped the entire wire, replace any suspects. Check voltage often during the process so that you'll know when you have found and corrected the resistance problem.

As an alternative and temporary patch, maybe you could lower the charged voltage setting at the regulator by 2.5 volts.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 12:25 PM Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
On my 55, I have a 110A/24v Mastervolt alternator for the house bank and the alpha pro regulator.  I’ve had the battery temp alarm come on several times now because the regulator does not switch from Bulk to absorption.  On my voltmeter on the panel, voltage is 30-31V and charge rate goes up and down quickly from 10-40A, all with the batteries full after days on shore charger.   I checked out the regulator with the Masteradjust software and the sense and battery voltage was just below the 28.5V for the switch to absorption.   So the regulator is seeing 2-2.5V less than what the batteries have - I checked the voltmeter with my multitester.   At the suggestion of Pochon, I just replaced the regulator but that wasn’t the problem. 
Any idea what could be wrong would be much app!   

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem
just left Barcelona for Valencia


Re: Poor Anchor Chain Maintenance

Chuck_Kim_Joy
 

Great suggestions. One more. We anchored all over the Caribbean this season. Sometimes as long as 10 days in one spot. In Prickly bay Grenada we saw the worst fouling of chain. 2 inch thick growth on about 60 feet of chain. The worst smelling goup you've ever encountered. We we're 12 days in one spot. We could do nothing but sail with it to Trinidad and remove all chain power wash and disinfect the chain locker. It will never be the same neither will we. 
All the best 
Chuck 
Joy #388
Trinidad 

On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 1:10 PM Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi James:  

WOW!! If anyone needed additional impetus to take care of their chain (in addition to Kent on Kristi's story), you have provided it.  

May I make a couple of additional suggestions that have stood me in good stead for the last 18 years of my SM ownership (80% in Caribbean waters):
1.  Convert the anchor wash down system to fresh water.
2.  Install a fresh water deck wash down fitting (T'ed off with a valve from the anchor wash down line in the port forward locker).  Every time you wash down the deck, direct some fresh water down the hawse pipe to douse the "pile" with some fresh water. 
3.  Make sure to plug the hawse pipe when sailing to prevent salt water flooding in there. 
4.  Pay out all the chain when going on the hard or at least twice per year.

Thanks for sharing, and "motivating" us to be careful with this. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver, M.D.
s/v Liahona 
Amel SM 2000 Hull #335
Puerto Del Rey  Marina, Puerto Rico


Re: AMEL 54 watertank compartments - access to clean

 

Stefan,

I remember my first years on BeBe. I seemed to do many things the hard way and some things the wrong way. It was a difficult and sometimes costly learning period. I am sure that everyone will join me in wishing you well with your 54.

To gain access to all 3 inspection ports on your A-54 is a very difficult task. Especially removing underseat refrigerator/freezer that I believe I see in the photo.

The three inspection ports for the 3 sections of the tank are:
Under the forward-facing refrigerator
Under the underseat refrigerator/freezer
Under the floor in the galley (shown in photo below).
image.png
If I were you, I would chemically clean/disinfect the freshwater tank via one of the ports...the easy one...the one under the floor.
1. To the freshwater water tank, add 2 liters of "household bleach" which is typically either 5.25 percent (“regular strength”) Chlorine
2. Fill the water tank with freshwater.
3. Allow the tank water with Chlorine to stand for 24-72 hours
4. Pump all of the water out of the freshwater tank using a submersible water pump through the middle inspection port.
5. Fill and pump-out 2 more times.
6. The appearance of the center patrician will mirror the other two.
image.png

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970 (If I do not have your number in My Contacts, you will go to VoiceMail. Text me in advance with your number and I'll white list it.)



On Wed, Jul 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Barry Connor via Groups.Io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Stefan,
To clean the inside of that water tank you take the top cover off and put your hand inside.
Are you getting fresh water around that area? I had a leak under the sink which had fresh water in the compartments around the water tank.

Best

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penrlope II”
Amel 54. #17
Syracuse,   Sicily 


On Jul 3, 2019, at 18:07, Stefan Schaufert <mail@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Group,

this my first topic and it seems to be a difficult one.
I want and need to clean all off the water tank compartments.
But the access specially to the 
forward compartment seems to be nearly impossible.

For the aft compartment you can carefully slide the fridge forward (after loosening a few screws and the water hoses) and take it out.
But I see no solution for the forward compartment.
How is it working?

I’m asking you for your experiences. I am sure some of you cleaned the water tanks already ;-).

Thanks a lot for your help.
Best regards
Stefan
A54 / 119 / LADY CHARLYETTE

<Freezer_1.jpeg>


Mastervolt alternator overcharging

Joerg Esdorn
 

On my 55, I have a 110A/24v Mastervolt alternator for the house bank and the alpha pro regulator.  I’ve had the battery temp alarm come on several times now because the regulator does not switch from Bulk to absorption.  On my voltmeter on the panel, voltage is 30-31V and charge rate goes up and down quickly from 10-40A, all with the batteries full after days on shore charger.   I checked out the regulator with the Masteradjust software and the sense and battery voltage was just below the 28.5V for the switch to absorption.   So the regulator is seeing 2-2.5V less than what the batteries have - I checked the voltmeter with my multitester.   At the suggestion of Pochon, I just replaced the regulator but that wasn’t the problem. 
Any idea what could be wrong would be much app!   

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem
just left Barcelona for Valencia


Re: Poor Anchor Chain Maintenance

Gary Silver
 

Hi James:  

WOW!! If anyone needed additional impetus to take care of their chain (in addition to Kent on Kristi's story), you have provided it.  

May I make a couple of additional suggestions that have stood me in good stead for the last 18 years of my SM ownership (80% in Caribbean waters):
1.  Convert the anchor wash down system to fresh water.
2.  Install a fresh water deck wash down fitting (T'ed off with a valve from the anchor wash down line in the port forward locker).  Every time you wash down the deck, direct some fresh water down the hawse pipe to douse the "pile" with some fresh water. 
3.  Make sure to plug the hawse pipe when sailing to prevent salt water flooding in there. 
4.  Pay out all the chain when going on the hard or at least twice per year.

Thanks for sharing, and "motivating" us to be careful with this. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver, M.D.
s/v Liahona 
Amel SM 2000 Hull #335
Puerto Del Rey  Marina, Puerto Rico

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