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Re: Special Thanks to Gary Silver and Andrew Lamb #organize

Rick Grimes
 

Terrific!

On Mar 6, 2019, at 3:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

All,

You are probably not aware that SM owner Gary Silver has edited almost 600 of your photos in the photos section of this website and SM owner Andrew Lamb has also been updating and editing photos. WOW!

The reason for this effort is that when you upload a photo with a camera-assigned name like IMG-00001, the search engine will not find it when someone may be searching for exactly what you updated. Hopefully between Gary and Andrew's efforts we will have close to 100% of all photos properly named.

I am asking everyone to ensure that any photo you add to the Photo section is named logicly and in such a way that it will become searchable. Also, if you are not sure which ALBUM to add it to, please note that I set up 6 General albums:

1. Deck & Hull - anything on the outside of the Amel
2. Electronics & Electrical
3. Mechanical - anything that turns or moves, except if it should be in #1. Deck & Hull - anything on the outside of the Amel
4. Plumbing
5. Miscellaneous
6. Amel Photo Album -A place to post your boat pictures and glamour shots


Please try to use this organization methodology because it will certainly benefit each of us, sooner or later.

Photos which are attached to emails are automatically placed in an Album named EMAILED PHOTOS. We are going to attempt to move those photos to one of the above 6 albums, but this may be a challenge for us. If we can get it figured out, we will move them once a month, empting the EMAILED PHOTOS album.

--
 
Best,
 
Bill
Re: Special Thanks to Gary Silver and Andrew Lamb #organize

Rick Grimes
 

Yes! Thanks Gary and Andrew—and Bill. This is SO much easier to navigate and we’re so appreciation to all you are doing to make this a great place to learn and grow and share. 
Re: Outhaul shaft removal

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Eric,

I would never suggest you were a big man with a big hammer as I described in my very valid warning. I described the man and hammer provided by the Shelter Bay Marina yard against my wishes. However your move from a small big hammer to a full size sledge hammer would indicate an element of vigorous action as does the word "pounding". Not quite the delicate touch of a jeweler. A gas torch is a very effective and non damaging method of freeing resistant articles, as is heating in an oven. However the boom would not fit in an oven. Gas torches used for this work have a very broad flame and the heat used would not affect the hardening of the gears

Anyway in my case I had stripped the gearbox of most of its components.

Kind Regards

Danny 

On 07 March 2019 at 12:33 eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Being a big man with a big hammer,it really depends on what you hit with the hammer and how much force you use with the hammer. After supporting the boom upside down I gently used the Big Hammer  on just the bolt sticking out from the shaft. By using the weight of the hammer and GENTLY tapping the bolt, the shaft came out easily, Remember I was an engineer and then a jeweler for over 40 years-, I am used to working on things with a very gentle touch. bringing the boom to a shop with a press is essentially doing the same thing as I did with the hammer,

However I would never use a torch on the gearbox.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376


On Tue, Mar 05, 2019 at 03:16 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS wrote:


On 05 MarHi,

Hi Barry

In Shelter Bay Marina Colon, Panama I was addressing this problem. I approached the yard asking for a man with a gas torch to heat it. Instead I got a big man with a big hammer and a puller. The result was a shattered housing. We were 36 hours from transiting the Canal. Fun.  He then used the gas torch as I had asked and it slipped off. So in my opinion beware a big man with a big hammer. I advised everyone after this to regularly remove and lanacote this shaft and avoid this issue forever. If done regularly it slips out easily.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

ch 2019 at 10:35 seagasm <seagasm@...> wrote:
OK, so how difficult to re-assemble it? do you have to use such force?

Kind Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM#171
Re: Hawse Pipe Replacement

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Yes Dan it most certainly does. I had to remove my windlass at one stage and that bolt sheered off. I put the windlass back in place (temporarily) without that bolt and it very noticeably flexed the deck in use. I drilled the stud out and replaced it with a through bolt. That flange is essential.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 07 March 2019 at 11:29 "Dan Wilcox via Groups.Io" <dwilcox123@...> wrote:

 
Hearing how the bolt went through a tab on the pipe, could the explanation be that the galvanized pipe provide extra rigidity to reduce the deck from flexing when the windless was pulling up an anchor?

Thanks, Dan
Feierabend SM#86

On Wednesday, March 6, 2019, 2:25:31 PM PST, Craig Briggs via Groups.Io <sangaris@...> wrote:


Gary,
On my Santorin the original pipe didn't have a tab on top. The pipe end was cut at an angle to be flush with the underside of the deck and simply glassed to the bottom of the deck with a fillet. It was, indeed, just stubbed about an inch below the deck locker floor with a glass filtet on top of the floor to seal it - nothing on the underside. Flanges will be really tricky because (on the Santorin) the pipe angles forward toward the bow as it goes down from the windlass so you'd have to get the flange angles just right. I should think just fiberglass fillets top and bottom, like Amel's original would do the trick.  I plugged up the hawse hole and top of the pipe with some rags inside some plastic wrap to keep resin and filet material from seeping down the inside of the pipe.
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris


 


 
Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Warren Traill
 

Thanks Craig.

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Craig Briggs via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, 6 March 2019 11:55 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow locker floor replacement.....

 

Hi Warren,
Sorry, I don't recall the exact diameter but it was essentially the same as the original, to the closest US size I could find. It's not too critical since you're glassing in the new one so there's wiggle room. I only took "gee whiz" pictures of the old rotted out tube, but a picture of the finished job may not be very informative since it looks just like the old one (before it rusted out :-)
Best, Craig SN68 Sangaris

Re: Outhaul shaft removal

eric freedman
 

Being a big man with a big hammer,it really depends on what you hit with the hammer and how much force you use with the hammer. After supporting the boom upside down I gently used the Big Hammer  on just the bolt sticking out from the shaft. By using the weight of the hammer and GENTLY tapping the bolt, the shaft came out easily, Remember I was an engineer and then a jeweler for over 40 years-, I am used to working on things with a very gentle touch. bringing the boom to a shop with a press is essentially doing the same thing as I did with the hammer,

However I would never use a torch on the gearbox.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376


On Tue, Mar 05, 2019 at 03:16 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS wrote:


On 05 MarHi,

Hi Barry

In Shelter Bay Marina Colon, Panama I was addressing this problem. I approached the yard asking for a man with a gas torch to heat it. Instead I got a big man with a big hammer and a puller. The result was a shattered housing. We were 36 hours from transiting the Canal. Fun.  He then used the gas torch as I had asked and it slipped off. So in my opinion beware a big man with a big hammer. I advised everyone after this to regularly remove and lanacote this shaft and avoid this issue forever. If done regularly it slips out easily.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

ch 2019 at 10:35 seagasm <seagasm@...> wrote:
OK, so how difficult to re-assemble it? do you have to use such force?

Kind Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM#171
Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Tom,
Does your hawse pipe run vertically or is it slanted like mine on my Santorin? On mine a standard 90° flange wouldn't work.  Also, even with an access door, working on the underside of the bow locker floor is brutal - why not just put it on top, or, easier yet, just caulk (or glass in a fillet) on the top of the floor?
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris
Re: Hawse Pipe Replacement

Dan Wilcox
 

Hearing how the bolt went through a tab on the pipe, could the explanation be that the galvanized pipe provide extra rigidity to reduce the deck from flexing when the windless was pulling up an anchor?

Thanks, Dan
Feierabend SM#86

On Wednesday, March 6, 2019, 2:25:31 PM PST, Craig Briggs via Groups.Io <sangaris@...> wrote:


Gary,
On my Santorin the original pipe didn't have a tab on top. The pipe end was cut at an angle to be flush with the underside of the deck and simply glassed to the bottom of the deck with a fillet. It was, indeed, just stubbed about an inch below the deck locker floor with a glass filtet on top of the floor to seal it - nothing on the underside. Flanges will be really tricky because (on the Santorin) the pipe angles forward toward the bow as it goes down from the windlass so you'd have to get the flange angles just right. I should think just fiberglass fillets top and bottom, like Amel's original would do the trick.  I plugged up the hawse hole and top of the pipe with some rags inside some plastic wrap to keep resin and filet material from seeping down the inside of the pipe.
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris

Re: Hawse Pipe Replacement

Craig Briggs
 

Gary,
On my Santorin the original pipe didn't have a tab on top. The pipe end was cut at an angle to be flush with the underside of the deck and simply glassed to the bottom of the deck with a fillet. It was, indeed, just stubbed about an inch below the deck locker floor with a glass filtet on top of the floor to seal it - nothing on the underside. Flanges will be really tricky because (on the Santorin) the pipe angles forward toward the bow as it goes down from the windlass so you'd have to get the flange angles just right. I should think just fiberglass fillets top and bottom, like Amel's original would do the trick.  I plugged up the hawse hole and top of the pipe with some rags inside some plastic wrap to keep resin and filet material from seeping down the inside of the pipe.
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris
Re: Forward head faucet

seagasm <seagasm@...>
 

Arlo, most items these days are generally available from hardware outlets for example, https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-chrome-handspray_p4790532 here in Australia and New Zealand. An identical mixer is also available, I think I purchased mine for about $32.00.

Kind Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM #171
Re: Hawse Pipe Replacement

amel46met
 

The Tab at the top of my galvanized hawse pipe had one of the windlass bolts thru it and encased in fiberglass before it rusted away. I still have to replace the pipe and some of the floor.
Tom Deasy 
S/Y Aphrodite 
Maramu 125


On Mar 6, 2019, at 1:44 PM, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Gary,

   Perhaps Amel felt that the galvanized hawse would be less likely to corrode the chain due to dissimilar metals?  As long as the hawse had zinc left on it, it would help to protect the steel in the chain.   The fibreglass pipe idea is interesting to me since it could be made strong and would never corrode.   Eliminating the joint between the hawse and the fibreglass on the locker panels joints would be a good thing by keeping water from getting into the plywood at the hawse hole in the event that the caulking failed. The one problem is that fibreglass is not very resistant to chafe and in wearing the pipe down you will have some fibreglass fibers floating around...  I am thinking of using the fibreglass pipe idea but adding a replaceable plastic liner.  I am thinking of using a more slippery plastic than PVC but it sounds like it it working out well for some and would be a simple solution.  I am sure that you could also fashion a new hawse from 316 stainless that would wear well without a liner.  Lots of good ideas on the forum.
Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220
 
On Mar 6, 2019, at 11:07 AM, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> wrote:

I have created this new thread to carry on the topic of "Hawse Pipe Replacement" that was started in the thread "Bow Locker Floor Replacement".  In that thread multiple folks have indicated that they have replaced, or are about to replace, their hawse pipe due to corrosion of the original galvanized pipe.  Over the years I have only seen a hand full of areas where Amel "got it wrong" and the floor of the bow lazarettos and using galvanized pipe (instead of stainless steel or some more durable material) for the hawse pipe are two. 

This topic is timely for me as I was just considering this project myself (having previously dealt with the floor issue).  The suggested materials so far are:

Schedule 40 PVC  or better yet Schedule 80 PVC pipe.
FRP pipe.

I had anticipated having a 316L stainless steel pipe fabricated with a flange at the top and bottom.  Other than cost, any thoughts on that idea?   It appears to me that the original pipe simply passed through the lazarette floor (no flange) and had a "tab" welded at the top, then was glassed in place.  Correct?

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
Puerto Rico

Re: Forward head faucet

Mark Erdos
 

The brand is Grohe – I seriously doubt if the same model would still be available that was used on the SM. The home industry changes models and styles frequently. The closest they have to day would be Grohtherm 1000. Perhaps the European sites had different models.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Arlo
Sent: Wednesday, March 6, 2019 3:02 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Forward head faucet

 

Hello all. I have a 1985 Amel Mango hull # 46. I am looking to replace the faucet and shower head with a new one. Would like to use the same model or perhaps one  that Amel used on the Super Maramu. Anyone know what brand and model they are ?
Thanks Arlo

Re: Special Thanks to Gary Silver and Andrew Lamb #organize

Aras Grinius <n33077@...>
 

Kudos to the editors
Sv fiasco
Re: Forward head faucet

Arlo
 

Thanks Bill I will check it out. Really appreciate this new platform and all the support you give to the group and me!
Re: Forward head faucet

CW Bill Rouse
 
Edited

Arlo,

SM fixtures are made by GROHE. The attached might help you.

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Wed, Mar 6, 2019 at 1:01 PM Arlo <svplanb@...> wrote:
Hello all. I have a 1985 Amel Mango hull # 46. I am looking to replace the faucet and shower head with a new one. Would like to use the same model or perhaps one  that Amel used on the Super Maramu. Anyone know what brand and model they are ?
Thanks Arlo

Special Thanks to Gary Silver and Andrew Lamb #organize

CW Bill Rouse
 

All,

You are probably not aware that SM owner Gary Silver has edited almost 600 of your photos in the photos section of this website and SM owner Andrew Lamb has also been updating and editing photos. WOW!

The reason for this effort is that when you upload a photo with a camera-assigned name like IMG-00001, the search engine will not find it when someone may be searching for exactly what you updated. Hopefully between Gary and Andrew's efforts we will have close to 100% of all photos properly named.

I am asking everyone to ensure that any photo you add to the Photo section is named logicly and in such a way that it will become searchable. Also, if you are not sure which ALBUM to add it to, please note that I set up 6 General albums:

1. Deck & Hull - anything on the outside of the Amel
2. Electronics & Electrical
3. Mechanical - anything that turns or moves, except if it should be in #1. Deck & Hull - anything on the outside of the Amel
4. Plumbing
5. Miscellaneous
6. Amel Photo Album -A place to post your boat pictures and glamour shots


Please try to use this organization methodology because it will certainly benefit each of us, sooner or later.

Photos which are attached to emails are automatically placed in an Album named EMAILED PHOTOS. We are going to attempt to move those photos to one of the above 6 albums, but this may be a challenge for us. If we can get it figured out, we will move them once a month, empting the EMAILED PHOTOS album.

--
 
Best,
 
Bill
Forward head faucet

Arlo
 

Hello all. I have a 1985 Amel Mango hull # 46. I am looking to replace the faucet and shower head with a new one. Would like to use the same model or perhaps one  that Amel used on the Super Maramu. Anyone know what brand and model they are ?
Thanks Arlo
Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

And a pvc conduit for wiring from fore to aft in the cockpit locker...

And the air intake to the engine room. 

And...  ?

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Mayaguana, Bahamas
Re: Hawse Pipe Replacement

James Alton
 

Gary,

   Perhaps Amel felt that the galvanized hawse would be less likely to corrode the chain due to dissimilar metals?  As long as the hawse had zinc left on it, it would help to protect the steel in the chain.   The fibreglass pipe idea is interesting to me since it could be made strong and would never corrode.   Eliminating the joint between the hawse and the fibreglass on the locker panels joints would be a good thing by keeping water from getting into the plywood at the hawse hole in the event that the caulking failed. The one problem is that fibreglass is not very resistant to chafe and in wearing the pipe down you will have some fibreglass fibers floating around...  I am thinking of using the fibreglass pipe idea but adding a replaceable plastic liner.  I am thinking of using a more slippery plastic than PVC but it sounds like it it working out well for some and would be a simple solution.  I am sure that you could also fashion a new hawse from 316 stainless that would wear well without a liner.  Lots of good ideas on the forum.
Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220
 

On Mar 6, 2019, at 11:07 AM, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> wrote:

I have created this new thread to carry on the topic of "Hawse Pipe Replacement" that was started in the thread "Bow Locker Floor Replacement".  In that thread multiple folks have indicated that they have replaced, or are about to replace, their hawse pipe due to corrosion of the original galvanized pipe.  Over the years I have only seen a hand full of areas where Amel "got it wrong" and the floor of the bow lazarettos and using galvanized pipe (instead of stainless steel or some more durable material) for the hawse pipe are two. 

This topic is timely for me as I was just considering this project myself (having previously dealt with the floor issue).  The suggested materials so far are:

Schedule 40 PVC  or better yet Schedule 80 PVC pipe.
FRP pipe.

I had anticipated having a 316L stainless steel pipe fabricated with a flange at the top and bottom.  Other than cost, any thoughts on that idea?   It appears to me that the original pipe simply passed through the lazarette floor (no flange) and had a "tab" welded at the top, then was glassed in place.  Correct?

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
Puerto Rico

Re: Bow locker floor replacement.....

Thomas Kleman
 

I'm not planning on glassing the pipe in place as I want the ability to remove it easily. I will use two end flanges; one below the windlass under the deck and one below the floor of the bow locker. That holds it in place and allows removal by taking off the bottom flange.

Had it been installed that way originally I probably wouldn't have this problem. I'm making my access door in the floor of the port bow locker right next to the pipe so I can reach the flange if necessary.
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