Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 50

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Dean;

 

We are wintering in Corfu and will start cruising the Ionian and then the Adriatic in June.

 

My e-mail address is mshirloo “at” transpacific”dot”us If you’d like to stay in contact, please send a private e-mail and we can share contact information. May be we can hookup somewhere.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2019 9:39 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 50

 

 

Hi Mohammad,

We bought the 54 in late 2017, and cruised for 6 months in Greece last summer.  

Much like you, we are very impressed with the boat. The more we learned the more we liked.

Cheers
Dean

SV STELLA

A54-154.  

 

Departing Preveza in April for Northern Europe. 


Re: Rubber caps for Lofrans [10 Attachments]

carcodespam@...
 

Alan

I found it at Amazon Germany:
It has a rubber cap but the switch is made in plastic.
This one has a better quality (made in brass) but is more expensive:

BTW they are not switches but push-buttons.
(Push to stop the engine, push and hold to turn the windlass.)

Gerhard
Sharki #60


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow nav light re-wiring

karkauai
 

I had forgotten the vacuum trick Eric.  I really like that one too!!

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243

On Jan 5, 2019, at 1:57 AM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Tom,

We have replaced the starboard wire twice and the port one once.

One of the secrets is to use the European round wire vs the USA flat wire.

I am not a fan at the present time to use LED lights as the ones I have seen are not sealed against sea water. So I just used the exact same wire to replace mine.

I used a very strong thin line continuously  taped about 1 foot down the end of the wire.

The rope was entirely covered with electrical tape and I wrapped it so it was pointed where the wire ended and the rope continued. . It was a marlow rope about 1/16 inch or slightly bigger .it comes in a small spool.

 

The second time I replaced the starboard wire, I soldered the ends together and stripped off the jacket of the wire. I then again used  a very small rope tied with a long bowline to the soldered connection. . I used some tape to clean up the configuration ant it worked very well.

 

It is very important to put a lot of dish washing soap on the wire and pull it back and forth to lubricate the openings. If there is a grommet in the stanchion remove it and seal it when done with silicone.

 

If my memory serves me correctly the port light wire runs down the same stanchion and through the same hole in the deck.  In my case the steel imbedded in the fiberglass under the stanchion base expanded due to salt water intrusion.  I cut back the glass remove the rusted plate and replaced the fiberglass. I then fabricated a Stainless steel plate and mounted it on the outside of the fiberglass. There is no more rust and

everything has been good for quite a few years. The only caution is to be gentle as you pull the wire. If yo feel it binding. Pull it back and see what is causing the problem with your splice.

 

On my previous boat, not an Amel. I used a vacuum cleaner to suck a thin line with a few knots in it through the stanchion.

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of thomas.kleman
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2019 12:17 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow nav light re-wiring

 

 

In investigating my starboard nav light failure I've encountered deteriorating wiring. I suspect I will have to remove the pulpit to thread the new wire, but was hoping someone had a miraculous and novel technique for leaving it in place.

Tom Kleman, SV L'ORIENT SM2K 422, Puerto Velero Colombia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow nav light re-wiring

eric freedman
 

Hi Tom,

We have replaced the starboard wire twice and the port one once.

One of the secrets is to use the European round wire vs the USA flat wire.

I am not a fan at the present time to use LED lights as the ones I have seen are not sealed against sea water. So I just used the exact same wire to replace mine.

I used a very strong thin line continuously  taped about 1 foot down the end of the wire.

The rope was entirely covered with electrical tape and I wrapped it so it was pointed where the wire ended and the rope continued. . It was a marlow rope about 1/16 inch or slightly bigger .it comes in a small spool.

 

The second time I replaced the starboard wire, I soldered the ends together and stripped off the jacket of the wire. I then again used  a very small rope tied with a long bowline to the soldered connection. . I used some tape to clean up the configuration ant it worked very well.

 

It is very important to put a lot of dish washing soap on the wire and pull it back and forth to lubricate the openings. If there is a grommet in the stanchion remove it and seal it when done with silicone.

 

If my memory serves me correctly the port light wire runs down the same stanchion and through the same hole in the deck.  In my case the steel imbedded in the fiberglass under the stanchion base expanded due to salt water intrusion.  I cut back the glass remove the rusted plate and replaced the fiberglass. I then fabricated a Stainless steel plate and mounted it on the outside of the fiberglass. There is no more rust and

everything has been good for quite a few years. The only caution is to be gentle as you pull the wire. If yo feel it binding. Pull it back and see what is causing the problem with your splice.

 

On my previous boat, not an Amel. I used a vacuum cleaner to suck a thin line with a few knots in it through the stanchion.

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of thomas.kleman
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2019 12:17 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow nav light re-wiring

 

 

In investigating my starboard nav light failure I've encountered deteriorating wiring. I suspect I will have to remove the pulpit to thread the new wire, but was hoping someone had a miraculous and novel technique for leaving it in place.

Tom Kleman, SV L'ORIENT SM2K 422, Puerto Velero Colombia


Re: Amel 50

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Mohammad,
We bought the 54 in late 2017, and cruised for 6 months in Greece last summer.  
Much like you, we are very impressed with the boat. The more we learned the more we liked.
Cheers
Dean
SV STELLA
A54-154.  

Departing Preveza in April for Northern Europe. 


Re: Rubber caps for Lofrans [10 Attachments]

svcharisma
 

Gerhard 
If you said already, I don't see it.  Can you tell me where you purchased the new starter switch for your Perkins?  I need a new rubber cap for mine, as well.

Alan, 
sv Charisma
Mango #62


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 50

Mohammad Shirloo
 

HI Dean;

 

Congratulations. You will not be disappointed. We are more impressed with each passing year.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2019 4:44 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 50

 

 

Dean,

 

You  bought a world cruiser. 😁


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

 

On Fri, Jan 4, 2019, 16:49 Trifin trifin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... wrote:

 

That’s a great result!!

The boat does look great. We considered it seriously. We visited the first hull in the factory in 2017, but decided we didn’t want to buy a boat so early in the production cycle, and also felt (rightly or wrongly) the 54 was a better world cruiser. The factory visit to see the 50 cemented our decision to buy an Amel. Very impressed.

Dean SV Stella A54-154

X

1


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Galapagos [2 Attachments]

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Porter,
   Those pictures are from 2001, and that's our daughter swimming. She was in the Peace Corps in Ecuador, so, of course, we had to go. What a super time!
   From what I read the government hasn't changed much with "local interpretations" of regulations being highly variable and harbor masters being rather, er, sleepy. We did arrange, with virtually no interest from a harbormaster, a cruisers alert for some fishermen whose engine had died and were drifting toward the Marquesas for a week. It worked and they were rescued. Harbormaster dozed on.
    We also spent a few days anchored by ourselves in Isla Santa Fe, which has no town, but 1000's of Lobos del mare - sea lions, who are too cute and love to buzz you while you snorkel.  Plus a few weeks in other anchorages - beyond description! {Yes, you can wiggle a white tipped reef shark by his tail while he sleeps.)
   Our last stop was the northernmost island - Isla Darwin, with huge schools of hammerhead sharks. Wow!  From Darwin we continued NW to Baja Mexico, which Jimmy Cornell's World Cruising Routes says you can't do. We had two weeks of perfect 24/7 off-wind sailing with the balooner and genoa. Rolled them up together each noon for a swim in cobalt blues seas. 
  The one very positive government action we came across was the confiscation of a Honduran boat that was cutting off shark fins and leaving the sharks to die - to sell the fins to the far east "aphrodisiacs" market - disgusting.
  So don't hesitate to push the boat out a bit on your visit.  Our daughter's advice was, "You're always good for one "lo ciento", although we never had to offer one.
Cheers, Craig SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <portermcroberts@...> wrote :

Fantastic Tip Craig!
Appreciated! We’ll be headed that way hopefully soon with a new Volvo engine.
I know it was for Heinz, but we’ll tag along!

Thank you

Porter
S/V IBIS
54-152

Excuse the errors.
Sent from my IPhone
Www.fouribis.com

> On Jan 4, 2019, at 12:22 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
>
> Puerto Baquerizo Moreno


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Head sail furling, Heading to S Pacific

karkauai
 

Thanks Miles, so I’m envisioning the line running along the deck and up against the cockpit coaming, rather than thru another block or two that keep it outboard by the rail.  Is that right?

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Jan 4, 2019, at 4:01 PM, 'Miles Bidwell' milesbid@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

 

I will try to draw a sketch.   I recall that I put two blocks on the first or second starboard station base.  The lines then run straight down the deck and attach to the bungee that continues to the big aft cleat.   I found that I had to tie the knot just aft of the forward block on the line that would be running aft as the sail furled so it didn’t run through a block.   I am a bit fuzzy as I last used this about 15 years ago after the motor drive plate came adrift.

 

Carol sends her best and she and I hope to meet Iris someday.

 

Miles

 

s/y Ladybug, sm 216


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow nav light re-wiring

karkauai
 

Hi Tom,
If you haven’t already, switch to LEDs.  You can use a much smaller wire which will be much easier to run.  Definitely use some kind of lube, it will go much easier. (Soapy water or a wire-pulling lube).  I lost my messenger when pulling the old wires (the wire broke).  I was able to pull it back from the fixture end and threaded a 1/4” steel fishing tape with a little difficulty.  Others suggested using a ferrous nut tied to your messenger and coaxing it along with a strong magnet.  Very cool don’t ya think?  I’ll definitely try that some day.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243
Ft Lauderdale for a few days.



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Galapagos [2 Attachments]

Porter McRoberts
 

Fantastic Tip Craig!
Appreciated! We’ll be headed that way hopefully soon with a new Volvo engine.
I know it was for Heinz, but we’ll tag along!

Thank you

Porter
S/V IBIS
54-152

Excuse the errors.
Sent from my IPhone
Www.fouribis.com

On Jan 4, 2019, at 12:22 PM, sangaris@aol.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Puerto Baquerizo Moreno


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 50

 

Dean,

You  bought a world cruiser. 😁


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Fri, Jan 4, 2019, 16:49 Trifin trifin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... wrote:
 

That’s a great result!!

The boat does look great. We considered it seriously. We visited the first hull in the factory in 2017, but decided we didn’t want to buy a boat so early in the production cycle, and also felt (rightly or wrongly) the 54 was a better world cruiser. The factory visit to see the 50 cemented our decision to buy an Amel. Very impressed.

Dean SV Stella A54-154

X


Re: Amel 50

Dean Gillies
 

That’s a great result!!

The boat does look great. We considered it seriously. We visited the first hull in the factory in 2017, but decided we didn’t want to buy a boat so early in the production cycle, and also felt (rightly or wrongly) the 54 was a better world cruiser. The factory visit to see the 50 cemented our decision to buy an Amel. Very impressed.

Dean
SV Stella
A54-154

Sent from my iPhone X


Re: Head sail furling, Heading to S Pacific

Miles
 

Hi Kent,

 

I will try to draw a sketch.   I recall that I put two blocks on the first or second starboard station base.  The lines then run straight down the deck and attach to the bungee that continues to the big aft cleat.   I found that I had to tie the knot just aft of the forward block on the line that would be running aft as the sail furled so it didn’t run through a block.   I am a bit fuzzy as I last used this about 15 years ago after the motor drive plate came adrift.

 

Carol sends her best and she and I hope to meet Iris someday.

 

Miles

 

s/y Ladybug, sm 216


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: TMD22 Turbo

Steve Harmon
 

Thanks Bill, I did buy the CHAR cartridge just under $300.00

On ‎Thursday‎, ‎January‎ ‎3‎, ‎2019‎ ‎02‎:‎21‎:‎20‎ ‎PM‎ ‎EST, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:


 

Mark,

It was Mark McGovern who did the research for the TMD 22.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970



On Thu, Jan 3, 2019 at 12:27 PM 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill,

 

Good info!!!

 

Does your client have a kit for the Yanmar 4JH4-HTE?

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, January 3, 2019 11:37 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: TMD22 Turbo

 

 

Steve,

 

Another Amel School client, who, BTW is in the turbo business researched this for a Super Maramu TMD-22 client and reported this information:

 

"Based on that, the best choices for your clients as I see them are:

1.  Buy a new replacement for $1544 ($1844 with a $300 refund when the send back their old turbo): http://www.invasionautoproducts.com/petrtbtu464.html

2.  Get a $350 rebuild:  http://gpopshop.com/services/rebuilding/

If it were me, I would most likely choose #3.  It's basically a brand new turbo for $295 and some elbow grease.  They just need to see if the wastegate works and that there is no damage to the exhaust and compressor housings after removal and cleaning."

 

I believe this is the best information available.

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  
http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

 

 

On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 9:44 PM pandmdegroot@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

My TMD22 has a Garrett 466770-0006S turbo on it.  I purchased a new “cartridge”  (compressor/turbine and bearing block) for $300.  I’m waiting for the gaskets to arrive from Volvo, so I can’t tell you if it’s a success or not.  I could not find a complete “rebuild kit” on line anywhere. Feel free to contact me if you would like more supplier details on the cartridge supplier. They are in North Hollywood California.

 

Peter de Groot

La Querida SM207

Moss Landing, CA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Head sail furling, Heading to S Pacific

karkauai
 

Very interesting, Miles, I don’t quite picture the bungee and block, and don’t understand how the lines run down the deck. I assume that there are more blocks along the rail, but that begs the question  how and where the two ends of the furling line combine to make a loop.  A knot wouldn’t go through a block on the rail.

If anyone else uses this setup, I’d love to see some pics or a sketch.

Thanks and Happy New Year Miles, and my best to Carol.

Kent & Iris
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On Jan 4, 2019, at 12:53 PM, 'Miles Bidwell' milesbid@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

 

Your upcoming adventures sound wonderful.  I am a bit jealous.

 

Re: the furling, Ladybug came with a long black and white furling line.  I am not on the boat so I don’t know what it is.  It may well be polyester.  It is the same line that attaches to the main halyard to allow dropping the sail.   This line goes around the furler, then to two blocks on the front starboard side and back along the deck.  The elastic bungee that holds the passerelle attaches to the rear starboard cleat.  Another block attaches to the bungee and to the furling line that is now tied into one big loop.  Take several loops around the main winch or the small  winch.  The bungee provides sufficient tension (not a lot) for rolling in the sail.   I have only used this once and it worked very well.  It didn’t slip on the furler.

 

Please ask me questions if this is not clear.  I will be back on the boat in 10 days and will be more helpful then.

 

Regards and fair winds,

 

Miles

 s/y Ladybug, SM 216  lying in Le Marin, Martinique


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow nav light re-wiring

Craig Briggs
 

Well, Thomas, you got some interesting replies:

 

Joe and Tracie Cloudstreet were able to simply pull out the old wire, attaching a chase (line, I presume) to then pull the new wire back up. The wire went around the bow, so, presumably, there is only one hole in the deck on the port side. They don’t note if there is a splice at the port side light for the wire to continue around the bow over to the starboard side, or, perhaps, there are two sets of wires, both going through the port side deck hole.

 

Paul and Sue LaFrance (nee Nomad), simply tied a leader line to the wire (presumably at the light fixture) and were able to pull it back through the deck, tie a new wire on and pull it back up. They’ve also got a SM, but don’t mention the wire going around the bow, nor if they rewired both sides.

 

Neither sound like they encountered any Amel installed silicone nor had anything like the very difficult extraction I encountered. I doubt this is a difference between their SM’s and my SN, but I do hope your experience is as easy as theirs.

 

Let us know what you find.

 

Cheers, Craig

 

 

---In amelyachtowners@..., <sangaris@...> wrote :

Hi Tom,

Yes, removing the bow pulpit is tough - far better to avoid that and, having done it both ways, frankly, it doesn't make the job that much easier.

 

I was able to remove the old wiring without removing the pulpit by just destructively ripping it out a few inches at a time, jerking the wire up and down as I went. I needed to clean up and enlarge the hole at the bottom some with an electric drill as I went along and got a needle nose pliers to grab the small bits. I also used a steel electrical fish tape to ream out the old silicone Amel had used inside of the pulpit tubing - really difficult. Then used the fish tape and to run the new wire.

 

It's one of those frustrating jobs that you just have to keep at until the wire and silicone finally give up.

Check to see if you've got any rust stains on the locker walls where the wires exit. If so there's been some water seeping in where the wire enters the bow pulpit and that is rusting out the carbon steel plate embedded in the toe rail for the pulpit bolts. It may eventually swell up and bulge out or crack the toe rail. Be sure to really seal off the new wires. 

 

After you do the starboard side you'll have the technique down and you can tackle the port side, which will surely not be far behind in deteriorating. 

 

Good luck with it!

Craig Briggs SN68 Sangaris in Ft Pierce, FL



---In amelyachtowners@..., <cloudstreet100@...> wrote :

Hi Thomas,

I had this issue a few years ago.  The wires had corroded (green) all the way back to the junction box in the port locker so I replaced everything from that point.  I don't remember the exact details but it wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be.  I definitely did not have to remove the pulpit.  As Paul & Sue mentioned just attache a chase to the old wire before you pull/push it out.  The wire goes up to the top rail and around the bow.  I think I used some sort of lube on the wire but it went pretty well.

Best of luck,

Joe & Tracie
SV CloudStreet,
SM #331
Grenada

On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 1:47 PM Paul LaFrance pflafrance@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thomas
We had a similar re-wiring problem. We simply tied a leader line to the electrical wire and gently pulled it through the opening.  Once through we  re-threaded the new wire back up the stanchion.

Paul & Sue LaFrance
Former owners of SV NOMAD SM#362



From: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...> on behalf of thomas.kleman <no_reply@...>
Sent: Friday, January 4, 2019 10:16 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow nav light re-wiring
 
 

In investigating my starboard nav light failure I've encountered deteriorating wiring. I suspect I will have to remove the pulpit to thread the new wire, but was hoping someone had a miraculous and novel technique for leaving it in place.

Tom Kleman, SV L'ORIENT SM2K 422, Puerto Velero Colombia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Head sail furling, Heading to S Pacific

Danny Simms
 

Hi Kent,
I know what you mean about the money. It was 8 and 9 years ago but we found everything in the US and the Caribbean very expensive. Central America was cheap so unless its changed I'd suggest you get there as soon as you can. 
Good Luck
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
Mangonui
New Zealand

On Sat, 5 Jan 2019 at 02:21, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Danny,

Thanks, I’ll experiment a bit and let the group know what I figure out.

Yes we are finally starting our SPac cruise, first leg to Turks and Caicos, thru the Caribbean, Belize, Panama, and thru the Canal.  Will probably go S this Summer to Ecuador and spend some time in S America, then on to the S Pac next Spring.

It seems that no matter how much prep is done, there are always delays like this jib furler problem.  I’m trying not to get too frustrated and hope that finances don’t cut our journey short.

Iris is a good sport and contributes greatly to my state of mind.  She’s also got a great mind for problem-solving and we are becoming a good team. I’m confident we will be in your neck of the woods in a few years as long as the finances don’t give out.

All the best,
Kent & Iris
Kristy
SM 243


On Jan 3, 2019, at 1:53 PM, Danny Simms sailorman.ds@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,
I haven't had to use it so can't answer the tension thing, but if you consider the posts on the  mainsail out-haul it would seem that more tension would help.Likewise the type of rope could be an issue. Ordinary polyester braid would be good for this application since stretch is not an issue. For tension I could imagine a few wraps on the idle winch and holding the tail in one hand while grinding on the other winch with the self tailer engaged would be the method but of course for me that is but a theory.
All the best for the new year. Are you still planning voyaging to the South Pacific?
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
Mangonui New Zealand 

On Fri, 4 Jan 2019 at 03:49, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Yes, Danny, the line is crossed after it leaves the drum.  Do I have to keep a lot of pressure on both sides of the line while furling and unfurling?  When single-handing, cranking on one side, tailing on the other side, and tailing the sheet to get a reasonably tight furl leaves me one hand short.  Admittedly, I’ve only tried it a couple of times so I may not have figured out something obvious.  What’s the trick?

Thank you Duane, I’ll let you know what I find...hope that’s the problem!
Kent & Iris
Kristy
SM243



On Jan 3, 2019, at 3:10 AM, simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent, when you run the manual furling line do you cross it after it leaves the pulley on the forestay. If not you are losing a big part if the rope/ pulley contact friction.
Regards
Danny
SM 299 
Ocean Pearl

On 3/01/2019 08:12, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Kent,


Before you condemn the gearing inside the box, be sure that the drive pin in the furling drum is fully engaging in the drive plate that is mounted on top of the gearbox.  We had our drive plate blow apart a few years ago, and other people have had trouble with the hole rounding over and pushing the pin up.  That sounds like the more likely cause.

Having just had our furling gearbox apart for routine maintenance, I think it very unlikely that the gearing inside the gearbox is the problem.  Certainly possible, but unlikely given what you describe as symptoms.

For the manual furling line, we have 10mm double braid dacron.  That worked great for us on the two occasions we needed it.  I wonder if the StaySet might be too stiff?  7/16" would not be too big.

If you need this unit disassembled and looked at, you might try Nance and Underwood, riggers in Fort Lauderdale.  They know Amel's very well, and Roger Underwood has been a help when we have used him.  If you need a new drive plate, I know they can make one for you.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: TMD22 Turbo to Injector Pump tube

Mike Ondra
 

Mark,

I just noticed that I hadn’t followed up after replacing the “smoke limiter” or “boost compensator” tube between the fuel injection pump and the Garrett Turbo. The good news is that replacing the failed tube added about 200 rpm to full throttle.  Bad news is this simple tube from a Volvo dealer cost almost $200.

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240

St. Augustine, FL

 

From: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2018 3:37 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: TMD22 Turbo to Injector Pump tube

 

 

Mike,

 

I'm somewhat guessing here since the turbocharged gasoline engines that I am most familiar with DO NOT have "smoke limiters".  However, I think that the damaged smoke limiter tube could be the cause of your inability to reach maximum RPM.  The smoke limiter is likely limiting the amount of fuel being injected at low boost pressure.  That is how you reduce smoke on a relatively low compression turbocharged diesel engine.  As you load up the engine and boost pressure rises, that limitation should be removed in order to achieve maximum power.  The tube that you say is damaged is likely the boost pressure "signal" that is used by the smoke limiter to limit fuel injection.  If the tube is not sending the boost signal to the smoke limiter, it would continue to limit fuel delivery even as boost pressure rises.  If fuel delivery is limited, so is power output and maximum RPM.  I would replace the tube.  Assuming the rest of the smoke limiter is working, I think it just might solve your problem.  Let us know either way!



Mark McGovern

SM 440 Cara

Deale, MD USA


Re: Bow nav light re-wiring

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Tom,
Yes, removing the bow pulpit is tough - far better to avoid that and, having done it both ways, frankly, it doesn't make the job that much easier.

I was able to remove the old wiring without removing the pulpit by just destructively ripping it out a few inches at a time, jerking the wire up and down as I went. I needed to clean up and enlarge the hole at the bottom some with an electric drill as I went along and got a needle nose pliers to grab the small bits. I also used a steel electrical fish tape to ream out the old silicone Amel had used inside of the pulpit tubing - really difficult. Then used the fish tape and to run the new wire.

It's one of those frustrating jobs that you just have to keep at until the wire and silicone finally give up.
Check to see if you've got any rust stains on the locker walls where the wires exit. If so there's been some water seeping in where the wire enters the bow pulpit and that is rusting out the carbon steel plate embedded in the toe rail for the pulpit bolts. It may eventually swell up and bulge out or crack the toe rail. Be sure to really seal off the new wires. 

After you do the starboard side you'll have the technique down and you can tackle the port side, which will surely not be far behind in deteriorating. 

Good luck with it!
Craig Briggs SN68 Sangaris in Ft Pierce, FL



---In amelyachtowners@..., <no_reply@...> wrote :
In investigating my starboard nav light failure I've encountered deteriorating wiring. I suspect I will have to remove the pulpit to thread the new wire, but was hoping someone had a miraculous and novel technique for leaving it in place.

Tom Kleman, SV L'ORIENT SM2K 422, Puerto Velero Colombia

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