Bill,

 

Good info!!!

 

Does your client have a kit for the Yanmar 4JH4-HTE?

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, January 3, 2019 11:37 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: TMD22 Turbo

 

 

Steve,

 

Another Amel School client, who, BTW is in the turbo business researched this for a Super Maramu TMD-22 client and reported this information:

 

"Based on that, the best choices for your clients as I see them are:

1.  Buy a new replacement for $1544 ($1844 with a $300 refund when the send back their old turbo): http://www.invasionautoproducts.com/petrtbtu464.html

2.  Get a $350 rebuild:  http://gpopshop.com/services/rebuilding/

3..  Buy a new $295 CHRA from http://www.invasionautoproducts.com/gatbchca447.html

If it were me, I would most likely choose #3.  It's basically a brand new turbo for $295 and some elbow grease.  They just need to see if the wastegate works and that there is no damage to the exhaust and compressor housings after removal and cleaning."

 

I believe this is the best information available.

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

My Calendar 

 

 

On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 9:44 PM pandmdegroot@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

My TMD22 has a Garrett 466770-0006S turbo on it.  I purchased a new “cartridge”  (compressor/turbine and bearing block) for $300.  I’m waiting for the gaskets to arrive from Volvo, so I can’t tell you if it’s a success or not.  I could not find a complete “rebuild kit” on line anywhere. Feel free to contact me if you would like more supplier details on the cartridge supplier. They are in North Hollywood California.

 

Peter de Groot

La Querida SM207

Moss Landing, CA

 

Yes, Danny, the line is crossed after it leaves the drum.  Do I have to keep a lot of pressure on both sides of the line while furling and unfurling?  When single-handing, cranking on one side, tailing on the other side, and tailing the sheet to get a reasonably tight furl leaves me one hand short.  Admittedly, I’ve only tried it a couple of times so I may not have figured out something obvious.  What’s the trick?

Thank you Duane, I’ll let you know what I find...hope that’s the problem!

Kent & Iris

Kristy

SM243

On Jan 3, 2019, at 3:10 AM, simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent, when you run the manual furling line do you cross it after it leaves the pulley on the forestay. If not you are losing a big part if the rope/ pulley contact friction.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 

Ocean Pearl

On 3/01/2019 08:12, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Before you condemn the gearing inside the box, be sure that the drive pin in the furling drum is fully engaging in the drive plate that is mounted on top of the gearbox.  We had our drive plate blow apart a few years ago, and other people have had trouble with the hole rounding over and pushing the pin up.  That sounds like the more likely cause.

Having just had our furling gearbox apart for routine maintenance, I think it very unlikely that the gearing inside the gearbox is the problem.  Certainly possible, but unlikely given what you describe as symptoms.

For the manual furling line, we have 10mm double braid dacron.  That worked great for us on the two occasions we needed it.  I wonder if the StaySet might be too stiff?  7/16" would not be too big.

If you need this unit disassembled and looked at, you might try Nance and Underwood, riggers in Fort Lauderdale.  They know Amel's very well, and Roger Underwood has been a help when we have used him.  If you need a new drive plate, I know they can make one for you.

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA

 

Does anyone know what parts the "jib furler overhaul kit" includes?  Specifically, does it include the worm, and or the drive gear?

We have had no trouble sourcing everything else (seals and bearings) as industry standard parts.

Bill Kinney

Sm160, Harmonie

Hollywood, FL, USA

 

We are making good progress on the pulley project.  Attached is a picture of a production prototype of one half of the pulley machined from 6061 Aluminum next to the original cast Aluminum pulley.  316 Stainless Steel material is on order as well as some new tooling for machining Stainless Steel since we mostly machine Aluminum.  I will have final pricing tomorrow.

Mark McGovern

SM #440 Cara

Deale, MD USA