Date   

Re: Holding tank riser

Peter de Groot
 

Darren an Karen,
We cut the sump (funnel part) of the tank outlet off. Then we extracted the hose, inserted and glassed in the FRP riser, through the inlet hole and glassed back in the the funnel part of the tank outlet.

Peter de Groot
SM 207 la Querida


Re: Holding tank riser

Peter de Groot
 

Tom and Kristin,
Our solution was to fiberglass in a 1-1/2”OD x 1-1/4” ID FRP tube riser through the inlet hole. The tube went almost to the top of the tank inside. Works well.

Peter de Groot
SM 207 la Querida


Re: Holding tank riser

Paul Osterberg
 

Darren and Karen
I made s video on how I sorted out  problems with and also filmed inside the holding tank
https://youtu.be/b62ZtpxCPnE
Paul SY Kerpa SM#259


Re: House Bank vs. Engine Start

Ian Park
 

Mark
I have a switch in the cabinet where the steering rack is located

I don’t know if it was original. I left the switch in place, but disconnected the relay that did the remote connection. I would just connect with jump leads if needed.

Maybe there is something like this in your setup that has failed?

Ian ‘Ocean Hobo’ SN 96


Re: House Bank vs. Engine Start

Dean Gillies
 

On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 01:02 PM, Mark Garver wrote:
Once I replaced the house bank everything worked fine,
Mark,
Can you reproduce the fault by attempting to start the engine while the house bank is turned off?
As Thomas mentioned, maybe you have a PO mod where something in the start/run circuits for the engine depend upon the 24V house circuit being online.
Dean
SV Stella
A54-154


Re: Amel 54 Secondary Saltwater Manifold made by SOFOMARIN of welded polypropylene pipe

Martin Birkhoff
 

Hello Bill, hello Arno,

we are just leaving La Rochelle, I will respond tonight.

Nicolas took measures and pics of the first manifold too. He should be able to create a design of this too.

Martin
Mago del Sur - 54#40


Re: Holding tank riser

Darren Moore
 

Hi Tom and others on this forum,

Kaz and I are newby owners of our Super Maramu #171 and this is our first post to this amazing forum

I found a similar issue with our holding tanks this morning, it looks like there was a solid pipe through the bottom of the tank which then had a 35-40mm flexible pipe connected to it on the inside of the tank which went up to the top of the tanks and then curved over to point back down.

In both tanks the pipes have broken off on the inside of the tank, I'm thinking of replacing the pipe going through the bottom of the tank with a solid bronze pipe going up to near the top of the tank as in the modification suggested in this PDF

I like the idea of going into the side of the tank at the side as well, but do find going in the bottom neater.

I'd like to get the old flexible pipe out of the tanks as well, not sure if this is possible without cutting an inspection hole in the tank.

I'd be interested to hear about how you go about your modification.

Kind Regards

Darren and Karen
SV Tradewinds III
SM 171
Australia

On Thu, 20 May 2021 at 10:02, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:
My aft head holding tank riser has separated from the lower part of the copper fitting. So inflow to the holding tank enters at the bottom of the tank. Despite this, there is no leaking from the fitting.

I've read the various posts on fixes; replacing the fitting, mounting a smaller diameter pipe inside what remains of the original, etc.

One goal of the project would be to make it easier to maintain. If the idea is to have the black water enter at the top of the tank, I'm wondering if anyone has moved the inlet from the bottom of the tank to the upper side. This would have the benefit of allowing the hose to run outside of the tank and turn left, dramatically simplifying clearing clogs.

Anyway, I want to consider all possibilities before I open this can of worms.

Tom and Kirstin
SV L'ORIENT
SM2K 422
Tahiti


Re: Introduction and a question

Roy Zakheym
 

Thank you Mark !


Re: Amel 54, For those who do not really like the entrance hatch locking system

Sv Garulfo
 



I would venture to think the idea was to be able to have intermediate positions. Not that we have made use of it much, but maybe one day...

One handed operation sounds great, though 

Best,

Thomas
GARULFO 
A54-122
Huahine, FrenchPolynesia 


On 19 May 2021, at 16:02, Dean Gillies <stella@...> wrote:

Hi Arno,
I know what you mean!   Anyone who needs to enter my boat without me present is always amused by the plethora of instructions I give them about entering.  Contractors look at you askance .. "do you think I don't know how to enter a boat?" lol

Personally, the only thing I don't like about the Amel system is that the door can free-fall all the way.  It would have been great to have some kind of piston in the design which supported the weight of the door, and either lowered it in a controlled way, or required a little downward pressure to open. As if our boats are not complex enough, right!

I think most people looking at your mechanism for the first time would find it obvious to operate, and probably not let the door drop.

Cheers
Dean
SV Stella A54-154

   

 


Re: House Bank vs. Engine Start

Thomas Kleman
 

The house bank and start battery should be completely separate. But you've had not 1 but 2 coincidences. On your boat, the state of the house bank seems to influence the start circuit. Before I did anything (like take the boat somewhere), I would label and test the entire start circuit. Maybe a previous owner made a "modification". 

It could also be 2 problems; you may have a problem in the ignition/starter circuit, the start stop solenoid, or something else. 

Sounds like a long weekend with a multimeter.
Good luck.

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
SV L'ORIENT
Tahiti


Re: House Bank vs. Engine Start

Mark Garver
 

The start battery was a bit over 12 Volt, I didn’t check it at the starter. Once I replaced the house bank everything worked fine, which I fine odd.

On May 19, 2021, at 10:58 PM, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

When you checked the voltage at the battery and starter, what was the reading ?

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
SV L'ORIENT
Tahiti


Re: House Bank vs. Engine Start

Thomas Kleman
 

When you checked the voltage at the battery and starter, what was the reading ?

Tom and Kirstin
SM2K 422
SV L'ORIENT
Tahiti


House Bank vs. Engine Start

Mark Garver
 

Okay, so recently I had a main bank failure, but what is disturbing is that the engine wouldn’t start. Confusing as I have a dedicated engine start battery, same for the generator. Has anyone experienced this, or have any idea why? Is there a way around this? I can’t imagine this happening in an anchorage, or at sea.

Thanks,

Mark Garver
SV It’s Good
SM #105


Re: Amel 54, For those who do not really like the entrance hatch locking system

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Arno,
I know what you mean!   Anyone who needs to enter my boat without me present is always amused by the plethora of instructions I give them about entering.  Contractors look at you askance .. "do you think I don't know how to enter a boat?" lol

Personally, the only thing I don't like about the Amel system is that the door can free-fall all the way.  It would have been great to have some kind of piston in the design which supported the weight of the door, and either lowered it in a controlled way, or required a little downward pressure to open. As if our boats are not complex enough, right!

I think most people looking at your mechanism for the first time would find it obvious to operate, and probably not let the door drop.

Cheers
Dean
SV Stella A54-154

   

 


Re: solar panel

Dean Gillies
 

Hi folks,
Interesting that people comment about getting more output than their panel ratings.

All solar panels have the capability to produce more than their rated output.  This is not some some magic which belongs to particular brands of panel.
It is almost entirely the result of the energy delivered by the sun on the panel and the alignment angle of the panel to the sun.  (There are also second order losses due to wiring, power conversion and temperature) 

Panels are rated by all manufacturers according to standard test conditions with a reference insolation power of 1000W/sqm.  After production, the panels are subjected to exactly this level of insolation (artificially and accurately produced), directly on the face of the panel and the output power is measured. The panels are then sorted into groups depending upon how much power they produce.  This is why the manufacturers have a range of different panel power ratings, say 390W, 395W, 400W and 405W, on their top of the range products.  There is no difference in the production process, but there is a natural tolerance spread.  This way of grouping panels tends to be more common with newer panels at the highest end of performance. Its a competitive thing because they want to quote the highest performance/efficiency number to beat the competition, so will advertise heavily, for example, the 405W performance. It may be that only 1% of the produced panels reach this level, and so they are also very expensive.  As technology moves on, the manufacturers keep producing these panels, but after a while they are not at the bleeding edge of performance, and end up being rated with only one power, which is generally the minimum achieved in production. They will also move to sample testing only, which keeps the price competitive.

In the real world, the insolation level is not always 1000W/sqm and of course our panels are not perfectly aligned to the solar axis.  Sometimes the insolation from the sun is much more than 1000W/sqm and if our panels happen to be well aligned at that time then they will of course produce more than their rated power.  Unfortunately, most of the time they produce less !    

The highest levels of efficiency at the moment for commercially available panels is around 22-23%.  That means that a top performing panel of area 1sqm when subjected to a perfectly aligned reference insolation power of 1000W/sqm, will produce 220-230W. Beware of panels advertising more than 230W/sqm performance, they don't exist yet.

If you stick to a reputable manufacturer, you should receive an accurately calibrated product which produces less than rated output most of the time, but sometimes if you are in the right place and you align your panel properly, you might get 10, 20, 30% more than rated output.

I really need to get back to my boat!

Dean
SV Stella A54-154

  


Re: Introduction and a question

Mark McGovern
 

Roy,

Congratulations!

It's about 59.5cm from the top of the toerail to the top of the lifeline.

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Holding tank riser

Thomas Kleman
 

My aft head holding tank riser has separated from the lower part of the copper fitting. So inflow to the holding tank enters at the bottom of the tank. Despite this, there is no leaking from the fitting.

I've read the various posts on fixes; replacing the fitting, mounting a smaller diameter pipe inside what remains of the original, etc.

One goal of the project would be to make it easier to maintain. If the idea is to have the black water enter at the top of the tank, I'm wondering if anyone has moved the inlet from the bottom of the tank to the upper side. This would have the benefit of allowing the hose to run outside of the tank and turn left, dramatically simplifying clearing clogs.

Anyway, I want to consider all possibilities before I open this can of worms.

Tom and Kirstin
SV L'ORIENT
SM2K 422
Tahiti


Re: Cook top dimensions

Mark McGovern
 

Dave,

The photos of the blocks are on my phone so I'm answering for Denise.  We used some leftover 22mm (7/8") thick teak boards from making new passerelle steps to make the support blocks.  The gimble rods are quite a bit narrower for the OceanChef 3 than they were for the Eno so we had to double up boards on each side to make each blocks about 44mm (1.75") thick.  They are about 125mm wide by 80mm tall and they are epoxied together and through-bolted through the plywood on either side of the stove using four (4) 1/4-20 bolts.  The bolts on the forward and aft side are different lengths given that the aft side is just 10mm plywood but the forward side goes into the dry storage area so the bolts need to go through plywood, insulation (from hell), and plywood/fiberglass.  Note that the gimble rods are much lower on the OceanChef 3 so the mount will need to be much lower than it was for the Eno.  We also moved it about 20mm outboard.  The only real difficulty was drilling through the forward side plywood as the insulation just wrapped around the drill bit preventing the drill bit from completing the hole.  We ended up using a 1/4" wood screw to "grab" the insulation and pull it out of the hole so that we could clear a path for the drill bit to get through all the way.  In the end the mounts were quite strong and secure.  I could hold myself up on the blocks.  We used Minwax Polyshades Oil Based Stain and Polyurethane one-step in Natural Cherry color to finish them and it was a real close match to the Amel African Mahogany.  Certainly good enough for how much you see it.  Below are some pics.  Feel free to ask me any questions.





--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: solar panel

Paul Osterberg
 

Herman
I would not put the panels in serie, shadow will reduce production significantly more than if you have them in serie. I have 4 Victron MPPT controllers, one for each Maxium 3 panel, one  for 2x180 w 36 v parallell panels on the rail, and one for 2x150 w 36 v semiflexible panels on my Bimini also in parallell.
Typical out put from the one on the rail a normal sunny day is 2000-2300wh, for the semiflexible only 700wh as much more shadow on the bimini, but also semiflexible panels have not the same performance as ridgid panels. total around or exceed 7000 wh/day.
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259


Re: Cook top dimensions

David Kurtz
 

Hi Denise,

I have a brand new OceanChef 3 sitting in my garage right now (along with my old Enos unit).  REAL interested in your installation as I am going to be prepping for it tomorrow.  Can you send a close up photo of the blocks or supports you used to attach the stove to the bulkheads on each side?
Thanks!
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross

Detroit, Michigan

1241 - 1260 of 59233