Re: Sq. footage of hull
Ross Hickey & Donna Hammond
Hi Pat we are about to antifoul our SM2K and we did the calculations as follows:
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To paint a 14.5 (lwl) x 4.6 x 2.1 fin-keeled-racing, with 3 coats You'll need 14 litres Regards Ross and Donna SV Intrepid Kiwi SM2K #356 Currently in Turkey Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad
On Tuesday, October 13, 2020, 9:07 pm, Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32@...> wrote:
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Re: Genoa Chain Plate bolts Leaking in aft hanging closet
You will find the bolts under the rub rail, we had our rub rail removed a few yeas ago when repainting.
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259
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Sq. footage of hull
Patrick McAneny
I am buying Interprotect 2000 and I want to order the correct number of gallons to do three coats. Does anyone know how many sq. feet the hull is on a SM ? If I ever knew I have forgotten.
Thanks, Pat SM Shenanigans
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Genoa Chain Plate bolts Leaking in aft hanging closet
Ken Powers SV Aquarius
Hello Amelians,
Aquarius has sprung a leak in the aft closet. I have traced it back to one of the 4 bolts holding the Genoa chainplate in place. Has anyone else had this problem, and are there any secrets to removing these 4 bolts and repairing the leak? I can only see the bolt heads in the closet, and can't get to whatever these bolts are threaded into. Looks like they are somehow threaded into the bottom of the Genoa chainplate which is under the rub rail. Any help appreciated! Thanks All! Ken Powers Aquarius SM2K #262
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Re: Sea Chest
Thomas Kleman
Hey Bill- great pics of your tidy work with your sea chest. By hull #422 (our boat) Amel was installing a ball valve ahead of the 5 port manifold. You could be running the engine or genset and cut off raw water to the AC, anchor wash, heads, and watermaker (only as a group). I've been going back and forth on adding 5 ball valves as in 10 years of ownership and work on each pump using sea water, it's never been a huge need to isolate a port in this way. Maybe a bit less cleanup but no big deal.
On the material used for the manifold, obviously I'm looking for strength.. although anyone swinging a 5 lb hammer in the engine room is usually asked to leave....not sure how much weight I attach to bronze's fire retardant properties as when you look around the engine room at all the plastic (ie sea chest itself) and hosing it's hard to imagine a fire where your bronze fitting saved your boat. Maybe if your AC pump capacitor underneath it went Chernobyl ? These posts are so incredibly valuable to me. Great to see people's approaches, problems, and choices......definitely copying some of yours. Thanks. Thomas Kleman SV L'ORIENT SM2K 422 Oahu
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Re: Tender Amel 54
Dirk Hooff
Hi Mohammad, the Highfield CL 360 fits almost perfectly to the Simpson davits. There is only a difference of approx. 4 cm inbetween the pick-up points on the tender and the rollers on the davits. But you could also adjust this perfectly with small changes to the dinghy. The CL 360 will certainly start to plane with a 20 HP outboard motor and 4 people in the boat. With six people on board, we were very quickly with the new Yamaha 25PS ... At the stern there are also two attachment points for toys or other things to pull. We have had many dinghies from Zodiac and other manufacturers ... the Highfield seems to be better in processing than many similarly priced boats... especially the aluminum hull. I know some blue water sailors who have changed to a Highfield and are very enthusiastic. Currently we stay for the winter period in the northern Adriatic sea. There and in many places in the Mediterranean we had to moore with stern first. Sometimes it´s not easy... you have to be careful with the dinghy. But it doesn´t matter if the dinghy is 3,40 or 3,60 long. Hopefully that helped… All the best and stay healthy! Dirk - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
SY PÉNÉLOPE AMEL 54#96
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Re: Sea Chest
Karen Smith
Must be an epidemic of manifold rebuilds! We are in the process of redoing ours. While I LOVE the idea of a seachest, the original Amel implementation on our Super Maramu (#160) always bothered me a bit since there were no valves other than the main seacock. The ability to isolate the individual circuits either in an emergency or for routine maintenance while in the water always seemed an oversight.
A crusty old sailor who has surely forgotten more about boats than I'll ever know had a strong opinion about raw water systems. You should be able to hit it with a 5 pound sledge, or stand on it with your full weight, or hit it with a torch, and not worry about it ever breaking or leaking. Feeling that was a pretty good approach, I have always looked askance on any raw water system made of PVC parts which tend to be brittle and fragile to external impact. Marelon is strong and resilient. PVC--not so much. Also, PVC is very susceptible to the heat of even a small fire. Even if the fire gets extinguished, you could lose your boat from flooding due to melted plastic plumbing. We installed a system made of solid bronze pipe fittings. Certainly more expensive than plastic, but much, much stronger. You get what you pay for. The engine is fed directly with a connection directly off the strainer, and a tee with a reenforced 1 1/4" hose carries water over to the "pump pad". If you are changing your manifold, whatever material your chose, be sure that the piping runs DOWNHILL continuously to any centrifugal pump. ANY place that air can get trapped will result in difficulty of the pumps priming. I have always used check valves on the discharge of each AC pump since these centrifugal pumps offer no resistance to back flow and would allow air to be pulled back into the system. The engine, generator, and RO system are all positive displacement pumps (more or less!) that offer significant resistance to reverse flow and do not need separate check valves. In most cases, I have found that 35mm and 1.25 inch hose and hose fittings are pretty much interchangeable. Bill Kinney (and Karen Smith) Annapolis, MD, USA Harmonie, SM#160 http://fetchinketch.net
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Re: Sea Chest
Porter,
Thanks for that very kind safety net offer.
I think I have this figured out. I am going to use a 1-1/2” hose barb and sand down the edges of the barb. I should then be able to warm the hose enough to get it over the fitting. We are only taking 3mm here so 1.5mm all around should do the trick.
I just place my order at McMaster for the entire assembly. Fingers crossed.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
[mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts
via groups.io
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2020 9:40 AM To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Sea Chest
This is the kind of project I would not undertake unless within walking distance to a great chandlery ripe with plumbing options. My adventure down this rabbit hole was complicated even with one close. Mark if you get in a bind I have a extra stainless manifold.
Porter Porter McRoberts S/V IBIS A54-152, Moorea WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206 Www.fouribis.net
On Oct 12, 2020, at 9:18 AM, Doug Smith via groups.io <dugsmith98@...> wrote:
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Re: Sea Chest
Porter McRoberts
This is the kind of project I would not undertake unless within walking distance to a great chandlery ripe with plumbing options. My adventure down this rabbit hole was complicated even with one close.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Mark if you get in a bind I have a extra stainless manifold. Porter Porter McRoberts S/V IBIS A54-152, Moorea WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206Www.fouribis.net
On Oct 12, 2020, at 9:18 AM, Doug Smith via groups.io <dugsmith98@...> wrote:
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Re: Sea Chest
Doug Smith
Could you take an appropriate sized plastic pipe fitting to a plumbing or machine shop and have them cut the threads into the plastic?
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Thanks, Doug Smith Amel 54-113, Aventura Deltaville, VA USA Dugsmith98@...
On Oct 12, 2020, at 2:09 PM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
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Re: Sea Chest
Hi Tom,
I am in the process of ordering the part to make the manifold similar to the one Bill showed in Amel-Martinique.
My concern is, the impossible to find hose barb is in very tight. If I damage it when removing, I’m in a tough spot. At some point the manifold has to connect to the strainer. I am having difficulty finding any hose barb either 35mm or 1 3/8”.
I have a note into Amel to see if they have one. A bit of a long shot but I’m out of options.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Thomas Kleman
Hey Mark, we seem to be working on the same project. My sea
water manifold is corroded and I'm building a new one. 10 years ago I changed
out the original Amel ball valve for one made of Marelon. At that time, I used
the Amel fitting (1-1/4 threaded to 35 mm barbed). I'm now replacing everything
to the left of that (which is the corroded copper fitting) and building it out
of plastic components. Wondering if you can also salvage it (the Amel fitting)
from your boat to save you this search.....the other option is to replace the
ball valve with one of a size that fits a 1-3/8 barbed end......good luck. One
bit of wisdom I've found. 1-3/8 hose is more common as a wet exhaust size than
bilge/water so couplers might be found best by looking backwards with that in
mind.
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Re: Sea Chest
Thomas Kleman
Hey Mark, we seem to be working on the same project. My sea water manifold is corroded and I'm building a new one. 10 years ago I changed out the original Amel ball valve for one made of Marelon. At that time, I used the Amel fitting (1-1/4 threaded to 35 mm barbed). I'm now replacing everything to the left of that (which is the corroded copper fitting) and building it out of plastic components. Wondering if you can also salvage it (the Amel fitting) from your boat to save you this search.....the other option is to replace the ball valve with one of a size that fits a 1-3/8 barbed end......good luck. One bit of wisdom I've found. 1-3/8 hose is more common as a wet exhaust size than bilge/water so couplers might be found best by looking backwards with that in mind.
Thomas Kleman SV L'ORIENT SM 2K 422 Oahu
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Re: Sea Chest
I heard back from US Plastics. This fitting is not one they make. Also, not available from Banjo or McMaster. I am at a complete loss for this fitting. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Plastic 1¼” male pipe thread to a 35mm ( or, 1 3/8”) hose barb
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Mark Erdos via groups.io
Thanks Tom. I send them a note seems I can’t find it on their site.
I have also check the Banjo catalog and McMaster. Not much luck.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Thomas Kleman
Mark- you might go with 1-3/8 for the 35mm side and try US Plastics.
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Re: If you missed Jimmy Cornell
That would be wonderful. I will see if he has time, but I suspect that he is tied up on his newest project. Jimmy Cornell’s new project: Aventura Zero & the Elcano Challenge To commemorate the 500th anniversary of the first round the world voyage, Jimmy Cornell is preparing to sail the historic route of the first circumnavigation achieved by Ferdinand Magellan and Juan Sebastian Elcano. Elcano took over the leadership of the expedition when Magellan was killed in the Philippines, and completed the voyage in 1522. In recognition of that fact, this project is called the Elcano Challenge (Desafío Elcano). A further aim of this challenging voyage is to be the first circumnavigation completed by a fully electric boat, something that would be very much in tune with the current concern for the environment. Jimmy’s fifth boat, Aventura Zero, is the prototype of the new Outremer 4Zero catamaran with zero carbon dioxide footprint at the heart of the concept.
On Sun, Oct 11, 2020 at 5:50 PM JOHN HAYES <johnhayes862@...> wrote:
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Re: If you missed Jimmy Cornell
Porter McRoberts
John.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Great Question!! Thanks Porter McRoberts S/V IBIS A54-152 Moorea WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206Www.fouribis.net
On Oct 11, 2020, at 12:50 PM, JOHN HAYES <johnhayes862@...> wrote:
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Re: Sea Chest
Thanks Tom. I send them a note seems I can’t find it on their site.
I have also check the Banjo catalog and McMaster. Not much luck.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Thomas Kleman
Mark- you might go with 1-3/8 for the 35mm side and try US Plastics.
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Re: Volvo fuel injector
Thank you for responding to my query about the injector, it will be very helpfull to me.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Ahmet
Philippe Belloir <pbelloir@...> şunları yazdı (11 Eki 2020 21:26):
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Re: Maramu 1985 Jib Electric Furler
I found as a reference only “NIREF” with a number 5, 10 ??? Perhaps NI for Nirvana
De : main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] De la part de Greg Wala
Thank you very much Philippe,
Do you know what brand of furler it is?
Thanks Greg
On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 6:08 PM Philippe Belloir <pbelloir@...> wrote:
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Re: Maramu 1985 Jib Electric Furler
Greg Wala
Thank you very much Philippe, Do you know what brand of furler it is? Thanks Greg
On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 6:08 PM Philippe Belloir <pbelloir@...> wrote:
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Re: Maramu 1985 Jib Electric Furler
See the file attached Best Phil
De : main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] De la part de Greg Wala
Hi, would anyone have the drawings for the Automatic Jib Furler from the 1985 era? I played around with the engage/disengage lever on the casing and now cannot get the gears to engage again no matter what position I try, would anyone have any advice on how to tackle this?
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