Date   

Dessalator Watermakers & Filmtec Membranes

 

I learned something today with from a great 54 owner, from Dessalator, and from reading the recent specifications sheet for Filmtec SW30 membranes.

·        The actual pressure for the Green Zone on a Dessalator high-pressure gauge is between 60 and 65 BAR

·        In normal seawater temperature and salinity and at 55 BAR the SW30 series of membranes will produce:

o   SW30 2521 = 47 liters/hour or 3*47 = 141 liters/hour

o   SW30 2540 = 109 liters/hour or 2*109 = 218 liters/hour

·        Obviously the production rate with pressure set inside the Green Bar (60-65 BAR), will be greater than the above

·        Dialing back the pressure to change the product water production to the original specs of the watermaker may cause the water maker to shut down.

My statement of reducing the pressure to set the produced water in the sight-glass at the original output for the D50/60, D100, and D160 is no longer valid for normal water temperature and salinity. And the D160 with new membranes will produce over 200 liters/hour.

 

WARNING: Filmtec has increased the efficiency of these membranes and depending on the age of your membrane(s) you may not see the increased production.


I attach the Filmtec Spec Sheet that I refer to:



I hope this helps and clears up things.


Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


Re: A54 hawsehole and chain guide

Sv Garulfo
 


I have witnessed a SS anchor chain snap before my own eyes and helped dealing with the emergency to save the boat (not an amel) from the lee shore in the swell of the marquesas and that kind of put me off SS chain. Admittedly the chain was oldish (10y) and the conditions tough.

Thomas 
GARULFO 
A54-122
Bora-Bora 


On Wed, 9 Sep 2020 at 03:25, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Teun,

What you need is a big wallet and 100 meters of Cromox 10mm (made by Ketten Wålder, https://www.ketten-waelder.de/en/) 😂

Arno Luijten,
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: A54 hawsehole and chain guide

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi Teun,

No, it’s only when we let out the full chain for whatever reason. So it’s very rare and only to minimise the chance of bungling it during business as usual. (That rarely happens anyway, even with galvanised chain). 

Hope that clarifies the use case. 


Thomas 
GARULFO 
A54-122
Bora-Bora 




On Tue, 8 Sep 2020 at 03:48, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:

Thomas,

 

Does this mean that every time you weigh anchor that somebody is guiding this device by hand in the right direction to evenly spread the anchor chain?

 

If so then I clearly have too many sails in the sail locker as it is completely full and was really a massive, massive head ache to get to the chain locker when the new (galvanized) chain bungled up. I never had the bungling up issue with the OEM SS chain and since I pushed a bunch of the galvanized chain all the way to the back it hasn’t happened since. It is rare, even in the South Pacific, that I use the last 30 meters of a 100 meter chain so pushing those 30 plus meters all the way back in the chain locker I believe prevents the bundle of chain getting too high in the front and thus getting tangled/bungled.

 

But your device looks what I need but then I also need: A) easily access to the chain locker as well as B) a pair of hands during departure.

 

Best Regards Teun

A 54 2009  #128

September 8, 2020 06:46:43

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Sv Garulfo via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 15:07
To: Amel Yacht owners Group <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 hawsehole and chain guide

 

Hi all,

 

We recently end-to-ended our anchor chain and I found the pictured device useful to guide the chain nice and flat at the bottom of the chain locker.

 

It’s simply a piece of PVC pipe with a couple of small line to gutter the chain in various corners of the locker.

 

 

 

And when you don’t use it, it snaps happily on the hawsehole pipe for efficient storage. 

 

 

 

 

Best,

 

Thomas

GARULFO 

A54-122

Bora-Bora 

 


Re: A54 hawsehole and chain guide

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Scott,

In 2007, Amel used to buy SS chains from WASI GERMANY.

Olivier BEAUTÉ 

Envoyé de mon iPhone

Le 9 sept. 2020 à 19:57, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> a écrit :

As an aside, does anyone know who makes the Amel oem stainless chain? It has a 5 stamped on it, if that helps? 
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: A54 hawsehole and chain guide

Scott SV Tengah
 

As an aside, does anyone know who makes the Amel oem stainless chain? It has a 5 stamped on it, if that helps? 
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: A54 hawsehole and chain guide

Arno Luijten
 

Teun,

What you need is a big wallet and 100 meters of Cromox 10mm (made by Ketten Wålder, https://www.ketten-waelder.de/en/) 😂

Arno Luijten,
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

Arno Luijten
 

Actually the way it works at VP is that any significant change in the production of the eingine results in a new trailing character. Most Amels 54s have C because that is the one for wich production ran fairly long. The change form C to D was major as they changed the setup and position of all the ancillaries. Probably because they found out that putting the raw water pump on top of the alternator was not such a great idea. Also they changed the engine cover making it more silent. The base block itself has not changed that much. Fact is that Volvo is no longer using it in their cars since a few years making the production volume of this block much smaller.
The biggest change (as far as I can tell) between the "A" and "B" and the "C" version is the electronics got beefed up because of many failures with them.
The changes from "D" to "I" are fairly minor I believe.
I still think it's a good engine with very good characteristics. The fact you hear many complaints about it is because there a quite a few out there. It will treat you as you will treat it in most cases. It is still a fairly complex engine and you should treat it as such. Prompt preventive maintenance and clean diesel are the way to go.

Just my two cents...

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Sharki genoa top furling device blocked

Aras Grinius
 

Also if you know what bearings and caps I need to order.  
Aras


On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 7:55 AM n33077 <aras.grinius@...> wrote:
Voker,
Can you send some more pictures of the assembly?  I'm curious to see how each piece fits together.  
Aras
Sharki #163 1988

On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 4:42 AM Volker <Puchta@...> wrote:
Problem solved:-)
The ship yard was able to take the swivel apart and to grind the plastic bearings a bit, so that they are turning now smoothly.
The start of the problem was that the previous owner had used mineral oil grease and this caused the plastic bearings to swell. Time over time the swivel starts to turn stiffer and stiffer until it bends the horns and finally blocks.

Volker
Mickmoon, Sharki hull 176



--
Aras Grinius


--
Aras Grinius


Re: Sharki genoa top furling device blocked

Aras Grinius
 

Voker,
Can you send some more pictures of the assembly?  I'm curious to see how each piece fits together.  
Aras
Sharki #163 1988


On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 4:42 AM Volker <Puchta@...> wrote:
Problem solved:-)
The ship yard was able to take the swivel apart and to grind the plastic bearings a bit, so that they are turning now smoothly.
The start of the problem was that the previous owner had used mineral oil grease and this caused the plastic bearings to swell. Time over time the swivel starts to turn stiffer and stiffer until it bends the horns and finally blocks.

Volker
Mickmoon, Sharki hull 176



--
Aras Grinius


Re: Sharki genoa top furling device blocked

Volker
 

Problem solved:-)
The ship yard was able to take the swivel apart and to grind the plastic bearings a bit, so that they are turning now smoothly.
The start of the problem was that the previous owner had used mineral oil grease and this caused the plastic bearings to swell. Time over time the swivel starts to turn stiffer and stiffer until it bends the horns and finally blocks.

Volker
Mickmoon, Sharki hull 176


Re: Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

Mohammad Shirloo
 

So glad to see some good reports on the VP. Our 110-IC is still running strong at 2200 hours and has been very reliable. It’s good to see that there is a good option out there, once needed. Thanks for your feedback to the forum to keep the rest of us informed.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2020 10:23 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

Agree Teun. 

The H is a different animal. 

We’re at about 550 hours on our “H,” replaced early 2019. 

Flawless so far (as it should be!).  Quiet. Very smooth. More efficient. No smoke. 

The C started with issues around 700 hours. 

Possibly, finally, a reliable Volvo D3?

 

Porter

Porter McRoberts 

S/V IBIS A54-152

WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206



On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:32 AM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:



Yes Sir – makes completely sense and that’s the same engine Porter McROBERTS and I have.

The previous engine was D3-110i-C


Thanks for the help.

 

Best Regards Teun

A54 2009 #128

September 8, 2020 06:31:12

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2020 06:19
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

From what I can tell, and the documentation is spares on this, we have a D3-110i-H

Does that make any sense?

~~~~~~Matt


On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:02 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:

Matt,

 

I don’t think VP changes designation per year as the 2007 A54 have the “C” and for sure also the 2009 A54 had “C”.

Clearly between 2009 and 2017 they went from “C” to “H” and I am trying to determine if since the “H” VP has introduced another “upgrade”.

 

I have the “H” since June 2018 and have been extreme happy with my (costly) decision to replace the “C”. Now having about 450hrs, it has been a pleasure to operate; I have had several times people standing in the cockpit suggesting me to start the engine while it was already running.

 

Best Regards Teun

A54 2009 #128

September 8, 2020 06:00:53

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 23:43
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

It’s a 2019 motor.

“i “?

~~~~~~Matt


On Sep 6, 2020, at 6:01 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:

Hi Matt,

 

The VOLVO PENTA D3 you have is that generation “H” with 110HP?

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

In Storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA

September 6, 2020 09:01:27

 

USA cell: +1 832 477 8842

AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 03:16
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

Our new Volvo Penta D-3 has 4.48 bar at 1800 rpm. You might be OK.

~~~~~~Matt


On Sep 6, 2020, at 10:48 AM, Dirk Hooff <sypenelope@...> wrote:

Hi Paul, Ralph, Mohammad and Arno,

 

thank you for your answers and your experience.

 

We connected an external gauge and the pressure is with cold engine at 2bar at 700rpm (idle) and 4bar at 1500rpm.

After 15min. with normal oil temperature (75degree) the oil pressure drops to 1.3bar when idling.

And 3 bar at 1500rpm.

The Volvo expert thinks, that this is not enough.

Actually the oil pressure sensor should not trigger before the oil pressure drops down to 0.7bar. That´s why I think the old sensor is too sensitive… 

 

First I will try it with a new sensor… unfortunately it needs time to get it, and maybe someone of you have some experience with the oil-pressure with a warm engine…

 

Thanks and take care,

 

Dirk

 






Am 03.09.2020 um 11:13 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:

 

Dirk,

 

I just had the same problem. Connecting an external gauge the pressure is normal, so I’m getting a new sensor. Note also that you cannot use a normal Volvo sensor, you must get the specially modified one that takes the bonding connection from Gwen Marine Service in France - €78.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dirk Hooff
Sent: 02 September 2020 12:44
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

Hi all,

 

since yesterday I have an oil pressure problem on my AMEL 54#96.

When I go from normal speed to idle, the oil alarm starts.

Of course, this doesn´t happen in the port but between the islands in Croatia.

My German Volvo expert suspects that the oil is too thin.

Diesel has probably gotten into the oil.

That´s why I changed the oil. More than 7 liters of very thin oil came out.

Then the engine ran again without an oil pressure alarm.

But today, when I switched back to idle, the alarm went on again.

I appreciate any advice or experiences.

Thanks a lot,







Dirk







AMEL 54#96 PÉNÉLOPE

Currently Croatia close to Dubrovnik



















 

Am 01.09.2020 um 16:21 schrieb Courtney Gorman via groups.io <Itsfun1@...>:

 

You need a Puller it's much safer 

but if push comes to shove I hammered mine out with a blank and mini sledge





-----Original Message-----
From: ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 8:52 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main furling motor and gear on 54

I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive. 

It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced. 

Problem;

Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out. 

Does anyone have a better idea?

Nick

S/Y Amelia

Leros.

AML 55-019

 

 

 


-- 
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


Re: Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

Porter McRoberts
 

Agree Teun. 
The H is a different animal. 
We’re at about 550 hours on our “H,” replaced early 2019. 
Flawless so far (as it should be!).  Quiet. Very smooth. More efficient. No smoke. 
The C started with issues around 700 hours. 
Possibly, finally, a reliable Volvo D3?

Porter

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net

On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:32 AM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:



Yes Sir – makes completely sense and that’s the same engine Porter McROBERTS and I have.

The previous engine was D3-110i-C

Thanks for the help.

 

Best Regards Teun

A54 2009 #128

September 8, 2020 06:31:12

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2020 06:19
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

From what I can tell, and the documentation is spares on this, we have a D3-110i-H

Does that make any sense?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:02 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:

Matt,

 

I don’t think VP changes designation per year as the 2007 A54 have the “C” and for sure also the 2009 A54 had “C”.

Clearly between 2009 and 2017 they went from “C” to “H” and I am trying to determine if since the “H” VP has introduced another “upgrade”.

 

I have the “H” since June 2018 and have been extreme happy with my (costly) decision to replace the “C”. Now having about 450hrs, it has been a pleasure to operate; I have had several times people standing in the cockpit suggesting me to start the engine while it was already running.

 

Best Regards Teun

A54 2009 #128

September 8, 2020 06:00:53

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 23:43
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

It’s a 2019 motor.

“i “?

~~~~~~Matt


On Sep 6, 2020, at 6:01 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:

Hi Matt,

 

The VOLVO PENTA D3 you have is that generation “H” with 110HP?

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

In Storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA

September 6, 2020 09:01:27

 

USA cell: +1 832 477 8842

AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 03:16
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

Our new Volvo Penta D-3 has 4.48 bar at 1800 rpm. You might be OK.

~~~~~~Matt


On Sep 6, 2020, at 10:48 AM, Dirk Hooff <sypenelope@...> wrote:

Hi Paul, Ralph, Mohammad and Arno,

 

thank you for your answers and your experience.

 

We connected an external gauge and the pressure is with cold engine at 2bar at 700rpm (idle) and 4bar at 1500rpm.

After 15min. with normal oil temperature (75degree) the oil pressure drops to 1.3bar when idling.

And 3 bar at 1500rpm.

The Volvo expert thinks, that this is not enough.

Actually the oil pressure sensor should not trigger before the oil pressure drops down to 0.7bar. That´s why I think the old sensor is too sensitive… 

 

First I will try it with a new sensor… unfortunately it needs time to get it, and maybe someone of you have some experience with the oil-pressure with a warm engine…

 

Thanks and take care,

 

Dirk

 





Am 03.09.2020 um 11:13 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:

 

Dirk,

 

I just had the same problem. Connecting an external gauge the pressure is normal, so I’m getting a new sensor. Note also that you cannot use a normal Volvo sensor, you must get the specially modified one that takes the bonding connection from Gwen Marine Service in France - €78.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dirk Hooff
Sent: 02 September 2020 12:44
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

Hi all,

 

since yesterday I have an oil pressure problem on my AMEL 54#96.

When I go from normal speed to idle, the oil alarm starts.

Of course, this doesn´t happen in the port but between the islands in Croatia.

My German Volvo expert suspects that the oil is too thin.

Diesel has probably gotten into the oil.

That´s why I changed the oil. More than 7 liters of very thin oil came out.

Then the engine ran again without an oil pressure alarm.

But today, when I switched back to idle, the alarm went on again.

I appreciate any advice or experiences.

Thanks a lot,






Dirk






AMEL 54#96 PÉNÉLOPE

Currently Croatia close to Dubrovnik
















 

Am 01.09.2020 um 16:21 schrieb Courtney Gorman via groups.io <Itsfun1@...>:

 

You need a Puller it's much safer 

but if push comes to shove I hammered mine out with a blank and mini sledge




-----Original Message-----
From: ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 8:52 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main furling motor and gear on 54

I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive. 

It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced. 

Problem;

Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out. 

Does anyone have a better idea?

Nick

S/Y Amelia

Leros.

AML 55-019

 

 

 


-- 
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


Re: A54 hawsehole and chain guide

Teun BAAS
 

Thomas,

 

Does this mean that every time you weigh anchor that somebody is guiding this device by hand in the right direction to evenly spread the anchor chain?

 

If so then I clearly have too many sails in the sail locker as it is completely full and was really a massive, massive head ache to get to the chain locker when the new (galvanized) chain bungled up. I never had the bungling up issue with the OEM SS chain and since I pushed a bunch of the galvanized chain all the way to the back it hasn’t happened since. It is rare, even in the South Pacific, that I use the last 30 meters of a 100 meter chain so pushing those 30 plus meters all the way back in the chain locker I believe prevents the bundle of chain getting too high in the front and thus getting tangled/bungled.

 

But your device looks what I need but then I also need: A) easily access to the chain locker as well as B) a pair of hands during departure.

 

Best Regards Teun

A 54 2009  #128

September 8, 2020 06:46:43

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Sv Garulfo via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 15:07
To: Amel Yacht owners Group <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] A54 hawsehole and chain guide

 

Hi all,

 

We recently end-to-ended our anchor chain and I found the pictured device useful to guide the chain nice and flat at the bottom of the chain locker.

 

It’s simply a piece of PVC pipe with a couple of small line to gutter the chain in various corners of the locker.

 

 

 

And when you don’t use it, it snaps happily on the hawsehole pipe for efficient storage. 

 

 

 

 

Best,

 

Thomas

GARULFO 

A54-122

Bora-Bora 

 


Re: Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

Teun BAAS
 

Yes Sir – makes completely sense and that’s the same engine Porter McROBERTS and I have.

The previous engine was D3-110i-C

Thanks for the help.

 

Best Regards Teun

A54 2009 #128

September 8, 2020 06:31:12

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2020 06:19
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

From what I can tell, and the documentation is spares on this, we have a D3-110i-H

Does that make any sense?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:02 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:

Matt,

 

I don’t think VP changes designation per year as the 2007 A54 have the “C” and for sure also the 2009 A54 had “C”.

Clearly between 2009 and 2017 they went from “C” to “H” and I am trying to determine if since the “H” VP has introduced another “upgrade”.

 

I have the “H” since June 2018 and have been extreme happy with my (costly) decision to replace the “C”. Now having about 450hrs, it has been a pleasure to operate; I have had several times people standing in the cockpit suggesting me to start the engine while it was already running.

 

Best Regards Teun

A54 2009 #128

September 8, 2020 06:00:53

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 23:43
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

It’s a 2019 motor.

“i “?

~~~~~~Matt


On Sep 6, 2020, at 6:01 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:

Hi Matt,

 

The VOLVO PENTA D3 you have is that generation “H” with 110HP?

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

In Storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA

September 6, 2020 09:01:27

 

USA cell: +1 832 477 8842

AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 03:16
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

Our new Volvo Penta D-3 has 4.48 bar at 1800 rpm. You might be OK.

~~~~~~Matt


On Sep 6, 2020, at 10:48 AM, Dirk Hooff <sypenelope@...> wrote:

Hi Paul, Ralph, Mohammad and Arno,

 

thank you for your answers and your experience.

 

We connected an external gauge and the pressure is with cold engine at 2bar at 700rpm (idle) and 4bar at 1500rpm.

After 15min. with normal oil temperature (75degree) the oil pressure drops to 1.3bar when idling.

And 3 bar at 1500rpm.

The Volvo expert thinks, that this is not enough.

Actually the oil pressure sensor should not trigger before the oil pressure drops down to 0.7bar. That´s why I think the old sensor is too sensitive… 

 

First I will try it with a new sensor… unfortunately it needs time to get it, and maybe someone of you have some experience with the oil-pressure with a warm engine…

 

Thanks and take care,

 

Dirk

 





Am 03.09.2020 um 11:13 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:

 

Dirk,

 

I just had the same problem. Connecting an external gauge the pressure is normal, so I’m getting a new sensor. Note also that you cannot use a normal Volvo sensor, you must get the specially modified one that takes the bonding connection from Gwen Marine Service in France - €78.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dirk Hooff
Sent: 02 September 2020 12:44
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

Hi all,

 

since yesterday I have an oil pressure problem on my AMEL 54#96.

When I go from normal speed to idle, the oil alarm starts.

Of course, this doesn´t happen in the port but between the islands in Croatia.

My German Volvo expert suspects that the oil is too thin.

Diesel has probably gotten into the oil.

That´s why I changed the oil. More than 7 liters of very thin oil came out.

Then the engine ran again without an oil pressure alarm.

But today, when I switched back to idle, the alarm went on again.

I appreciate any advice or experiences.

Thanks a lot,






Dirk






AMEL 54#96 PÉNÉLOPE

Currently Croatia close to Dubrovnik
















 

Am 01.09.2020 um 16:21 schrieb Courtney Gorman via groups.io <Itsfun1@...>:

 

You need a Puller it's much safer 

but if push comes to shove I hammered mine out with a blank and mini sledge




-----Original Message-----
From: ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 8:52 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main furling motor and gear on 54

I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive. 

It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced. 

Problem;

Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out. 

Does anyone have a better idea?

Nick

S/Y Amelia

Leros.

AML 55-019

 

 

 


-- 
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


Re: Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

Matt Salatino
 

From what I can tell, and the documentation is spares on this, we have a D3-110i-H
Does that make any sense?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:02 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:

Matt,

 

I don’t think VP changes designation per year as the 2007 A54 have the “C” and for sure also the 2009 A54 had “C”.

Clearly between 2009 and 2017 they went from “C” to “H” and I am trying to determine if since the “H” VP has introduced another “upgrade”.

 

I have the “H” since June 2018 and have been extreme happy with my (costly) decision to replace the “C”. Now having about 450hrs, it has been a pleasure to operate; I have had several times people standing in the cockpit suggesting me to start the engine while it was already running.

 

Best Regards Teun

A54 2009 #128

September 8, 2020 06:00:53

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 23:43
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

It’s a 2019 motor.

“i “?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Sep 6, 2020, at 6:01 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:

Hi Matt,

 

The VOLVO PENTA D3 you have is that generation “H” with 110HP?

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

In Storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA

September 6, 2020 09:01:27

 

USA cell: +1 832 477 8842

AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 03:16
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

Our new Volvo Penta D-3 has 4.48 bar at 1800 rpm. You might be OK.

~~~~~~Matt


On Sep 6, 2020, at 10:48 AM, Dirk Hooff <sypenelope@...> wrote:

Hi Paul, Ralph, Mohammad and Arno,

 

thank you for your answers and your experience.

 

We connected an external gauge and the pressure is with cold engine at 2bar at 700rpm (idle) and 4bar at 1500rpm.

After 15min. with normal oil temperature (75degree) the oil pressure drops to 1.3bar when idling.

And 3 bar at 1500rpm.

The Volvo expert thinks, that this is not enough.

Actually the oil pressure sensor should not trigger before the oil pressure drops down to 0.7bar. That´s why I think the old sensor is too sensitive… 

 

First I will try it with a new sensor… unfortunately it needs time to get it, and maybe someone of you have some experience with the oil-pressure with a warm engine…

 

Thanks and take care,

 

Dirk

 




Am 03.09.2020 um 11:13 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:

 

Dirk,

 

I just had the same problem. Connecting an external gauge the pressure is normal, so I’m getting a new sensor. Note also that you cannot use a normal Volvo sensor, you must get the specially modified one that takes the bonding connection from Gwen Marine Service in France - €78.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dirk Hooff
Sent: 02 September 2020 12:44
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

Hi all,

 

since yesterday I have an oil pressure problem on my AMEL 54#96.

When I go from normal speed to idle, the oil alarm starts.

Of course, this doesn´t happen in the port but between the islands in Croatia.

My German Volvo expert suspects that the oil is too thin.

Diesel has probably gotten into the oil.

That´s why I changed the oil. More than 7 liters of very thin oil came out.

Then the engine ran again without an oil pressure alarm.

But today, when I switched back to idle, the alarm went on again.

I appreciate any advice or experiences.

Thanks a lot,





Dirk





AMEL 54#96 PÉNÉLOPE

Currently Croatia close to Dubrovnik













 

Am 01.09.2020 um 16:21 schrieb Courtney Gorman via groups.io <Itsfun1@...>:

 

You need a Puller it's much safer 

but if push comes to shove I hammered mine out with a blank and mini sledge



-----Original Message-----
From: ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 8:52 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main furling motor and gear on 54

I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive. 

It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced. 

Problem;

Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out. 

Does anyone have a better idea?

Nick

S/Y Amelia

Leros.

AML 55-019

 

 

 


-- 
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


Re: Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

Teun BAAS
 

Matt,

 

I don’t think VP changes designation per year as the 2007 A54 have the “C” and for sure also the 2009 A54 had “C”.

Clearly between 2009 and 2017 they went from “C” to “H” and I am trying to determine if since the “H” VP has introduced another “upgrade”.

 

I have the “H” since June 2018 and have been extreme happy with my (costly) decision to replace the “C”. Now having about 450hrs, it has been a pleasure to operate; I have had several times people standing in the cockpit suggesting me to start the engine while it was already running.

 

Best Regards Teun

A54 2009 #128

September 8, 2020 06:00:53

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 23:43
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

It’s a 2019 motor.

“i “?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt


On Sep 6, 2020, at 6:01 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:

Hi Matt,

 

The VOLVO PENTA D3 you have is that generation “H” with 110HP?

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

In Storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA

September 6, 2020 09:01:27

 

USA cell: +1 832 477 8842

AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Matt Salatino via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 03:16
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

Our new Volvo Penta D-3 has 4.48 bar at 1800 rpm. You might be OK.

~~~~~~Matt


On Sep 6, 2020, at 10:48 AM, Dirk Hooff <sypenelope@...> wrote:

Hi Paul, Ralph, Mohammad and Arno,

 

thank you for your answers and your experience.

 

We connected an external gauge and the pressure is with cold engine at 2bar at 700rpm (idle) and 4bar at 1500rpm.

After 15min. with normal oil temperature (75degree) the oil pressure drops to 1.3bar when idling.

And 3 bar at 1500rpm.

The Volvo expert thinks, that this is not enough.

Actually the oil pressure sensor should not trigger before the oil pressure drops down to 0.7bar. That´s why I think the old sensor is too sensitive… 

 

First I will try it with a new sensor… unfortunately it needs time to get it, and maybe someone of you have some experience with the oil-pressure with a warm engine…

 

Thanks and take care,

 

Dirk

 




Am 03.09.2020 um 11:13 schrieb Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...>:

 

Dirk,

 

I just had the same problem. Connecting an external gauge the pressure is normal, so I’m getting a new sensor. Note also that you cannot use a normal Volvo sensor, you must get the specially modified one that takes the bonding connection from Gwen Marine Service in France - €78.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dirk Hooff
Sent: 02 September 2020 12:44
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil Pressure Volvo D3 I - C

 

Hi all,

 

since yesterday I have an oil pressure problem on my AMEL 54#96.

When I go from normal speed to idle, the oil alarm starts.

Of course, this doesn´t happen in the port but between the islands in Croatia.

My German Volvo expert suspects that the oil is too thin.

Diesel has probably gotten into the oil.

That´s why I changed the oil. More than 7 liters of very thin oil came out.

Then the engine ran again without an oil pressure alarm.

But today, when I switched back to idle, the alarm went on again.

I appreciate any advice or experiences.

Thanks a lot,





Dirk





AMEL 54#96 PÉNÉLOPE

Currently Croatia close to Dubrovnik













 

Am 01.09.2020 um 16:21 schrieb Courtney Gorman via groups.io <Itsfun1@...>:

 

You need a Puller it's much safer 

but if push comes to shove I hammered mine out with a blank and mini sledge



-----Original Message-----
From: ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 8:52 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main furling motor and gear on 54

I know this has come up before, but I am servicing the main sail furling motor and worm drive. 

It is all well but the top shaft seal should be replaced. 

Problem;

Shaft into the worm gear is very tight. Soaked it in diesel for some hours, hesitant to hit it. Plan to find a press to press it out. 

Does anyone have a better idea?

Nick

S/Y Amelia

Leros.

AML 55-019

 

 

 


-- 
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

 


Re: Recommentation for Sharki second autopilot

Volker
 

A second autopilot is now installed on Mickmoon and is working fine. It became a Raymarine Evolution EV200 with a Jefa DD1 direct drive unit.

I have sailed with the new auto pilot during the last 3 months in the baltics and I am very pleased with the performance

Volker
Mickmoon, Sharki hull 176


Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
 

Thanks to everyone who gave us information!

I thought I would update on what we did to solve the problem of the seal.
In the end we managed to solve the problem of the leaking oil, but it looks as if we must have damaged the upper part of the transmission, when we lost the oil. We no longer loose oil but at close to 2 hrs on 1800 rpm the transmission was really hot. We can motor for about 1/2 easily without the transmission getting hot, so can get in and out of harbour easily. Therefore we decided to leave the rest of the repair till we haul out at the end of the season.
I’ll attach the photos of how we made the seal.
The problem was that the seal between the fibreglass funnel and the aluminum transmission was in parts only 5mm. So we added 30mm stainless corners on all 4 sides so they we now had 35mm to make the seal. It worked!!

Thanks again!
Best regards,
Helen and Kosta on Meditation SM 29 , 1990

The fibreglass funnel.

The aluminum transmission with 2 corners attached and showing where the mechanic filed the transmission body so that the corners would make a seal.

Attaching the corners.

All 4 corners attached.

Back in place and seal made.
We took the transmission to a machine shop to have the corners made and to modify the transmission and corners so that the corners fitted tight and could make a seal with the transmission.

On 22 Jul 2020, at 3:03 PM, Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi via groups.io <helenmi57@...> wrote:

Hi Mitchell,

Thanks!!
We never had the oil seal...we have taken it apart many times in the 20 years we have her...that is unless it was removed before we bought her....:/
It would be a great help though if you could point it out for us on the plans.
We always managed to make the seal with just the gasket maker.... the fibreglass trumpet is not in a good condition anymore, perhaps that’s the problem!
Did you make any repairs to that?

Best regards,
Helen and Kostas SM 29 of 1990

Sent from my 
On 22 Jul 2020, at 9:13 AM, Mitchell Petersen <Mitchell.j.petersen@...> wrote:


Hi Helen,

I miss read what you were doing. I thought you were referring to the lower unit.

As far as your oil leak goes. There is a 85x110x12mm oil seal with stainless steel spring at the top of the lower unit where the trumpet looking fibreglass thing marries with the lower unit. I believe this oil seal is designed to retain the oil, should this leak as a backup you have the silicone gasket you are using where the upper unit is bolted to the fibreglass trumpet looking thing. I would guess this oil seal has been dislodged or damaged when the upper unit was repaired/ reinstalled.

The lower unit needs to be removed to replace this seal. This is not a difficult task once you have the upper unit off but the boat obviously has to be out of the water.

For economy I just replaced the oil with engine oil as originally recommend by Amel. When examined all gears top and bottom had very little where so I believe engine oil is sufficient to use in this light application. It is my opinion damage caused to these units is most likely often from miss aligned engines rather then anything to do with oil grade.


Let me know if it is unclear where the oil seal is located and I will mark it up on the plan.

Mitchell


On Mon., 20 Jul. 2020, 5:17 pm Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi, <helenmi57@...> wrote:
Hi Mitchell,

Thanks!!
Our fibreglass did not have the aluminium part, at least not since we have the boat, we have taken it apart many times in the 20 years we have her, probably Amel made the change after our hull.
We changed all the bearings and gears in the upper part, but didn’t touch the lower.
Have you changed the viscosity of the oil you use or do you still use the 15W 40?
All the best,
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


On 20 Jul 2020, at 12:03 AM, Mitchell Petersen <Mitchell.j.petersen@...> wrote:


I have the aluminium one which I recently fully rebuilt with all new bearings on both the upper and lower unit which requires cutting through the fibreglass and glassing back to original shape.

There is meant to be a small (approx. 2-3 inches) section of aluminium tubing glassed into the lower unit where the propelled shaft exits the until / where the fibreglass tapers which sounds like is no longer there since your service.

Mitchell 
SN33 1993

On Sat., 18 Jul. 2020, 1:11 am Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi, <helenmi57@...> wrote:
I’m sending the plans Maud sent me. It’s not exactly like any of them.
We’ve measured the difference between the aluminum and the fibreglass and it’s 3mm, but again there is nothing to hold an O-ring in place.

Many thanks,
Helen and Kostas Meditation SM 29 in 1990


On 17 Jul 2020, at 6:04 PM, Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi via groups.io <helenmi57=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the prompt reply!
Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. 
It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!!
Thanks again 
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990

<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>


On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


Re: Sharki genoa top furling device blocked

Ralf Schroeder
 

Hi Volker,

when the bearings by ship yard not in the store, send me the numbers from the bearings.
I will ask in our company, if the bearings in our store or if there an alternative typ.

Best Regards
Ralf


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Scott SV Tengah
 

Great that you took the plunge. Those Agm batteries aren't cheap so if you can keep your lithium alive, I'm certain it will save you money over the long term. 

I'm a little confused on your air con runtime on battery. Not sure about the sm, but on our 54 we have a Climma 9 in the aft cabin, which draws 782watts/26.3v=29.7amps and the calpeda pump draws 14 amps. FYI the voltage is what my victron has calculated as the average voltage under draw during the last two years. The climma draw is per spec, but only when the compressor is running. So even assuming the extreme/unrealistic case of 100% duty cycle, that's 44 amps an hour or around 132 amp hours over 3 hours. With your 600amps at 24v, you should be able to run much longer than 3 hours. Perhaps your battery monitor is not calibrated correctly? Or perhaps you're talking about running all 3 air con units? 

I'm always excited by a cheaper way to do the same thing. The victron / master volt setup is far more expensive but I guess two years ago when I installed it, I was so inexperienced with this lithium stuff and given the catastrophic battery failure and boat damage that can occur if you don't have the proper safety measures in place, I was too chicken to try it on my own. 

Excited to see how you managed those risks for far less cost than we (Garulfo, Joerg, myself) did. Too late for me but perhaps it can help others. 



Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com