Re: 1980 Sharki (SV TAKOUMI?)
delaney.watkins@gmail.com <no_reply@...>
Steve, thank you for the information. That is incredibly unfortunate.
If anyone has any information on another Sharki (preferably on the Eastern coast of North America) that is not listed on YW please let us know! Respectfully, Dee looking for an Amel
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 1980 Sharki (SV TAKOUMI?)
Steve Leeds
Hi Dee, It's a nice boat but I'm pretty sure it is already sold. Steve Leeds Sharki #121
On Friday, October 12, 2018, 8:07:54 AM EDT, delaney.watkins@... wrote:
My wife and I are considering traveling down to Florida to look at a 1980 Sharki that is listed on YachtWorld. Curious if anyone has any information on this particular vessel beyond what is listed on the YW advert? A name is partially visible in one of the photos and appears to be TAKOUMI. A google search reveals a blog post in French which appears to be about this vessel. Has anyone actually seen this Sharki in person recently? If, so what condition is it in? Is it worth the trip to Florida from Virginia to look at it? Any insight would be appreciated. Respectfully, Dee looking for an Amel
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Carbon Dioxide
Hi Pat,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Sounds like that's the likely culprit. Important reminder to all. Cheers, Craig ---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote : Craig, We had the hatch open in the head , so I suppose that was the source. I get up first and start the genset every morning and my wife usually smells exhaust while in the aft cabin. Maybe while moving, enough air is moving thru to keep the level down, once stopped it builds. I can't answer the how or why, just want to report the possibility of high levels of CO ,so people are mindful of it . Pat SM#123
-----Original Message----- From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...> Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 9:24 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Carbon Dioxide Hi Pat, So do you think it was from open hatches while you were motoring sucking exhaust into the aft cabin, but that did not set off the alarm then but only after you shut down the engine and presumably spent some time getting stuff off the boat etc., then closed the boat? That seems a really strange sequence of events as there's simply no more CO being generated after you shut down the engine. Do you think if someone was sleeping aft during your six hour motor they might have been subject to high CO levels? Or did CO somehow get created overnight or have been stored somewhere, like the engine room, and then seeped into the aft cabin.. There must be a "rest of the story" somewhere in all this. Being careful is paramount, but knowing what the problem is is arguably more so. Ours has never gone off with exhaust or battery gassing, but does go off with raw propane and with tr
ansmitting on the SSB and with weak batteries. Cheers, Craig SN68 ---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote : Ryan, The batteries were not being charged. However, I thought of that and placed the unit in the battery compartment,it remained at zero. Pat SM#123
-----Original Message----- From: Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...> Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 6:41 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Carbon Dioxide On my old boat, I saw what you experienced many, many times. I was initially extremely concerned, as one should be. But then one day my boat got unplugged from shore power by the dock staff, and that night after plugging it back in I was awakened by the CO alarm.. There had been nothing on board that produces CO in many days. After much experimentation, I proved to my own satisfaction that the CO alarm was actually sensitive to hydrogen gas produced by the batteries when they were excessively charged. It seems this is true for many CO alarms. Take the alarm seriously. Air the boat out well, and take care not to let exhaust inside. But also check to see if your battery compartment ventilation is working correctly, and also check th
at your batteries aren't overcharging. Some chargers will keep the voltage too high even though the batteries are full because other loads (e.g. refrigerator) are making the charger believe the batteries are still accepting a lot of current. Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration Boston, MA, USA
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Re: SM Turnbuckle
Hi Paul, Let's see if I've got this about right - the underwriters and bean counters think that statistically the financial risk to their company of old turnbuckles failing is low enough that they'll take it on, although they do want you to replace the wires. Will they be crewing with you on your offshore passages? I kinda think brother Joel still has a point. And I recall the turnbuckles were a relatively small portion of the total rigging cost. Then again, we lost a mizzen forward lower while coastal cruising off Sicily and, other than the loud crack scaring the livin' bejezus out of us, it in no way jeopardized the boat. It was the wire breaking at the lower swage on the original 18 year old ACMO rigging. We patched it and continued our season, but did replace all rigging (and turnbuckles) that winter. Cheers, Craig SN68 Sangaris ---In amelyachtowners@..., <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote : I asked my Insurer Y Yacht about rigg failure and only replacing the wire and not the turnbuckle. The answer wasdo Rig failures on Amels are not a serious problem and your plans for changing the standing rigging are perfectly acceptable. Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259 We plan to change the standing rigging this season when we get to Martinique. I assume the current turnbuckles are made from stainless steel and need to be replaced as well. Better material for a turnbuckle is bronze, crome or nickel plated. Then next time to change the standing rigging it should be enough to just replace the wire not the bronze turnbuckles.. Anyone having bronze turnbuckles or anyone having thought of the issue? Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259
Hi Paul, If they are the original turnbuckles from ACMO, that Amel uses, they are chromed bronze, not stainless steel. Brother Joel insists the best practice is to replace all turnbuckles (& clevis pins, etc.) whenever you do the rigging. He also recommends switching to mechanical fittings like Norseman or Sta-loc, at least on the bottom ends, rather than the swaged fittings that Amel/ACMO used originally. He's got a point. Cheers, Craig SN68
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Carbon Dioxide
Patrick McAneny
Craig, We had the hatch open in the head , so I suppose that was the source. I get up first and start the genset every morning and my wife usually smells exhaust while in the aft cabin. Maybe while moving, enough air is moving thru to keep the level down, once stopped it builds. I can't answer the how or why, just want to report the possibility of high levels of CO ,so people are mindful of it .
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Pat
SM#123
-----Original Message----- From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 9:24 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Carbon Dioxide Hi Pat,
So do you think it was from open hatches while you were motoring sucking exhaust into the aft cabin, but that did not set off the alarm then but only after you shut down the engine and presumably spent some time getting stuff off the boat etc., then closed the boat? That seems a really strange sequence of events as there's simply no more CO being generated after you shut down the engine. Do you think if someone was sleeping aft during your six hour motor they might have been subject to high CO levels? Or did CO somehow get created overnight or have been stored somewhere, like the engine room, and then seeped into the aft cabin..
There must be a "rest of the story" somewhere in all this. Being careful is paramount, but knowing what the problem is is arguably more so.
Ours has never gone off with exhaust or battery gassing, but does go off with raw propane and with tr
ansmitting on the SSB and with weak batteries.
Cheers, Craig SN68
---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote : Ryan, The batteries were not being charged. However, I thought of that and placed the unit in the battery compartment,it remained at zero.
Pat
SM#123
-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...> Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 6:41 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Carbon Dioxide On my old boat, I saw what you experienced many, many times. I was initially extremely concerned, as one should be. But then one day my boat got unplugged from shore power by the dock staff, and that night after plugging it back in I was awakened by the CO alarm.. There had been nothing on board that produces CO in many days. After much experimentation, I proved to my own satisfaction that the CO alarm was actually sensitive to hydrogen gas produced by the batteries when they were excessively charged. It seems this is true for many CO alarms.
Take the alarm seriously. Air the boat out well, and take care not to let exhaust inside. But also check to see if your battery compartment ventilation is working correctly, and also check th
at your batteries aren't overcharging. Some chargers will keep the voltage too high even though the batteries are full because other loads (e.g. refrigerator) are making the charger believe the batteries are still accepting a lot of current.
Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA
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1980 Sharki (SV TAKOUMI?)
delaney.watkins@gmail.com <no_reply@...>
My wife and I are considering traveling down to Florida to look at a 1980 Sharki that is listed on YachtWorld. Curious if anyone has any information on this particular vessel beyond what is listed on the YW advert? A name is partially visible in one of the photos and appears to be TAKOUMI. A google search reveals a blog post in French which appears to be about this vessel. Has anyone actually seen this Sharki in person recently? If, so what condition is it in? Is it worth the trip to Florida from Virginia to look at it? Any insight would be appreciated. Respectfully, Dee looking for an Amel
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toe pulley (headsail)
jlm@jlmertz.fr
-- Bernard Ancelle
Le 11/10/2018 à 22:00,
divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] a écrit :
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma A/C saltwater plumbing - Using barnacle buster.
Hi Eric,
I have done this as a regular part of maintenance every 6 month for the past 5 years. It is perfectly fine to use phosphoric acid or barnacle buster on the AC units. I don’t use BB anymore. I just buy phosphoric acid in the paint department of a hardware store or Sherman Williams for about ¼ of the BB price.
I use a set up just as you describe to re-circulate the acid. Be sure to use a filter in the bucket to catch the junk. I put a mesh balloon over the hose dumping into the bucket so the junk is not re-circulated.
If you use the concentrated BB which is about 17% phosphoric acid, use a solution of 30% acid 70% water in the bucket. There is a lot of water in the pipeline to add to the dilution.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Aruba www.creampuff.us
From:
amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Hi Kent, Are we speaking about the AC cooling line? My plan was you use the Barnacle buster circulating tank and hook it up to the input of the engine room Manifold, then run a garden hose from the output seacock and back to the circulating bucket. They suggested to use it for 4-6 hours. Did you dilute the barnacle buster and if so what ratio? I will also do so with the engine and genset. I plan on disconnecting the water input to the watermaker while doing this. Fair Winds Eric
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 11:14 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma A/C saltwater plumbing - Using barnacle buster.
I just flush with B.B. and let it sit i the lines over night once a year. So far all lines and manifold are free of any growth or scale. Kent SM 243 Kristy
Has anyone used barnacle buster and a circulating pump on the ac cooling water lines? Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
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Re: SM Turnbuckle
I asked my Insurer Y Yacht about rigg failure and only replacing the wire and not the turnbuckle. The answer was
Rig failures on Amels are not a serious problem and your plans for changing the standing rigging are perfectly acceptable. Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Autoprop vs Maxprop and specs of each
Hi Danny Nice to hear from you and thank you for these tips. I had not thought of greasing under water but of course if one pushes the grease right through and out there would be no risk of saltwater ingress. Good thought. Of course I need say no more good things about the brilliance of the Super Maramu's as I would be preaching to the converted on this site. Best regards Colin
On Fri, Oct 12, 2018 at 12:57 AM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
--
Colin Streeter 0411 016 445
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Autoprop vs Maxprop and specs of each
Hi Jose Very interesting information from you and I fully agree with all your comments. I have never had a Maxprop yet but this is the second boat on which we have had the autoprop and really like this prop for all the reasons your theory presents. On Island Pearl II we have now done 3000 hrs on the Yanmar 75 (I absolutely love this engine too!) and 90% of those hours would have been done at revs between 1400 - 1600 at which we cruise and motor sail often, however we can actually do 9.5kts at 3400 - 3600 revs (tested both ways to ensure no current impact). I am not so sure that this speed would be possible with a fixed prop or the Max Prop or any other brand. This may sound ridiculous or far fetched, however I can tell you a story of how this top speed saved our lives when a large angry steel Indonesian fishing boat tried to ram and sink us in the dead of the night with just my wife and I on board, with no guns or any means of defense! The nearest yacht to us was 15nm in front, and we were probably over 100nm. from our next safe port. This boat chased us for two hours and appeared to be doing 9.3kts and was gaining on us as the seas were rough, until the wind came up hard enough that our poles out genoa and all sails up took us over 10kts. We ran like hell with all lights, radar, AIS etc off for 5 hours at this speed! In my view the autoprop is an excellent match with the 75HP Yanmar and also provides brilliant fuel consumption extending our motoring range to huge distances compared to larger motors or different props. Best regards Colin Streeter SV Island Pearl II, SM#332 Cape Town, South Africa
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Colin Streeter 0411 016 445
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Autoprop vs Maxprop and specs of each
Thank you Bill Your advice is most helpful as always. Best regards Colin
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Colin Streeter 0411 016 445
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Autoprop vs Maxprop and specs of each
Hi Bill Thank you once again for this very helpful information. As per my earlier direct email, I will keep you informed as we proceed down your list of potential issues. Best regards Colin
On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 11:10 PM Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Colin Streeter 0411 016 445
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Autoprop vs Maxprop and specs of each
Hi Pat Thank you very much for this most helpful information. Today I received a quotation here in Cape Town on the Maxprop and it is R56,000 + 15% VAT for what they call the Maxprop 111 40mm shaft to your same spec. As the two Bill's have recommended I will stay with the Autoprop which I really do like. Bill Rouse also just reminded me that any fishing line caught around the prop would give these same small vibrations and the other thing I did differently was to put the normal Micron 350 antifoul paint on the prop since my usual "Propspeed" paint was not available in South Africa and their replacement product has poor reviews with some of the other locals I met in the yard. Quite possibly the micron paint has partially peeled off causing these minor vibrations? We dive on the prop tomorrow. Best regards Colin
On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:53 PM Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Colin Streeter 0411 016 445
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma A/C saltwater plumbing - Using barnacle buster.
eric freedman
Hi Kent, Are we speaking about the AC cooling line? My plan was you use the Barnacle buster circulating tank and hook it up to the input of the engine room Manifold, then run a garden hose from the output seacock and back to the circulating bucket. They suggested to use it for 4-6 hours. Did you dilute the barnacle buster and if so what ratio? I will also do so with the engine and genset. I plan on disconnecting the water input to the watermaker while doing this. Fair Winds Eric
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 11:14 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma A/C saltwater plumbing - Using barnacle buster.
I just flush with B.B. and let it sit i the lines over night once a year. So far all lines and manifold are free of any growth or scale. Kent SM 243 Kristy
Has anyone used barnacle buster and a circulating pump on the ac cooling water lines? Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma A/C saltwater plumbing - Using barnacle buster.
I just flush with B.B. and let it sit i the lines over night once a year. So far all lines and manifold are free of any growth or scale.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Kent SM 243 Kristy
On Oct 11, 2018, at 10:56 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Has anyone used barnacle buster and a circulating pump on the ac cooling water lines? Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma A/C saltwater plumbing - Using barnacle buster.
eric freedman
Has anyone used barnacle buster and a circulating pump on the ac cooling water lines? Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Carbon Dioxide
Hi Pat,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
So do you think it was from open hatches while you were motoring sucking exhaust into the aft cabin, but that did not set off the alarm then but only after you shut down the engine and presumably spent some time getting stuff off the boat etc., then closed the boat? That seems a really strange sequence of events as there's simply no more CO being generated after you shut down the engine. Do you think if someone was sleeping aft during your six hour motor they might have been subject to high CO levels? Or did CO somehow get created overnight or have been stored somewhere, like the engine room, and then seeped into the aft cabin.. There must be a "rest of the story" somewhere in all this. Being careful is paramount, but knowing what the problem is is arguably more so. Ours has never gone off with exhaust or battery gassing, but does go off with raw propane and with transmitting on the SSB and with weak batteries. Cheers, Craig SN68 ---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote : Ryan, The batteries were not being charged. However, I thought of that and placed the unit in the battery compartment,it remained at zero. Pat SM#123
-----Original Message----- From: Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...> Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 6:41 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Carbon Dioxide On my old boat, I saw what you experienced many, many times. I was initially extremely concerned, as one should be. But then one day my boat got unplugged from shore power by the dock staff, and that night after plugging it back in I was awakened by the CO alarm.. There had been nothing on board that produces CO in many days. After much experimentation, I proved to my own satisfaction that the CO alarm was actually sensitive to hydrogen gas produced by the batteries when they were excessively charged. It seems this is true for many CO alarms.
Take the alarm seriously. Air the boat out well, and take care not to let exhaust inside. But also check to see if your battery compartment ventilation is working correctly, and also check that your batteries aren't overcharging. Some chargers will keep the voltage too high even though the batteries are full because other loads (e.g. refrigerator) are making the charger believe the batteries are still accepting a lot of current.
Ryan and Kelly SM 233 Iteration Boston, MA, USA
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak
Patrick McAneny
I just want to again correct my previous post ,where I said the pump was connected to the block. I now realize after watching You Tube, that the pump is held in place by four bolts and is located on top of what I thought the pump was. I watched a few videos where guys took out the valves ,replaced two O rings and reinstalled the valves ,bled the lines ,no problem and no need to remove the pump.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123
-----Original Message----- From: Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 6:45 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak Craig, I just took my neighbor out to the boat for a look see. He works in a nearby marina and is very knowledgeable about almost everything . He thinks as you that we should mark the location and turns ,take the valves out ,replace the O rings and reassemble. I am more inclined to do this, now that it appears that the pump and block are one piece . I did not notice this earlier ,but my friend was looking at how to take it off and discovered it was one piece. He believes you would need to take the front and top covers off of the pump and rebuild in place.
Thanks,
Pat
-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...> Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 5:20 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak Pat, That comment from the shop may have a tad bit of hyperbole. Yes, I think there is a shim under the nipple, but why not pull, seal and replace one at a time and see what you get into? You can always bail out and take it to the shop (or pay the freight for them to remove it).
Craig
---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote : Craig, A rebuild shop told me that once removed ,it is essential that adjustments be made and set properly to function. Now my problem is to remove the pump, not an easy job to access the bolts and to disassemble. It is crazy that all three are leaking,I wish I had more time to tackle this,the clock is ticking.
Thanks,
Pat
-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...> Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 1:05 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak Pat - yes, odd all three are leaking; I wonder if maybe they started one at a time and just didn't get noticed. Oh well, doesn't make a difference now. If you unscrew the nipples to add tape, you may be able to replace the O rings instead (or do both). If you've got a shop manual or drawings you'll be able to watch out for other components the nipple holds in. A trick someone gave me is to spray copious amounts of Brake Cleaner around the area before you start - does wonders to get rid of any gritty, oily dirt.
As Bill mentioned, you're getting into professional rebuild territory, but, hey, if you pull it off you've won, if not, it's they same rebuild you'd have if you took it straight to a shop. My overhaul was about $600 (including injectors). Tha
t's more than teflon tape, I think.
Good luck, Craig SN68
---In amelyacht owners@..., wrote : Craig, The reason that tape was suggested was the concern for sealant clogging things up,which made sense to me. The leak it just around the male threads as they come out of the H.P. pump. , funny all three are leaking.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123
-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...> Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 10:36 am Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak Hi Pat,
I think the conventional wisdom is do not use teflon tape as there is risk of a piece getting loose and clogging things downstream. Paste sealant is preferred. Then again, if you're really, really careful, maybe, but why risk it for a cheap tube of paste.
I've got a Northern Lights, not Onan, but suspect the hpp assembly is similar, with a reducing nipple coming out of the hpp and the injector pipes fastened to the smaller end. If your is like that, can you definitively tell which end of the nipple is leaking?
On mine, a couple of months ago, it was the larger end at the hpp. That's sealed inside the hpp with an O ring so I took it to an
diesel pump shop to redo - I don't open my injector pumps myself - and it had 75
00 hours, so it was due for servicing anyway. If your leak is at the small end to the injector pipe, sure, try some seaant.
Good luck with i
t, Craig, SN68 Sangaris
---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote : I am sorry , I failed to mention that the leak is on the Onan Gen engine ,not the Volvo.
Thanks,
Pat
-----Original Message-----
From: sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...> Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 8:09 am Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak I have discovered that all three nipples screwed into the high pressure pump are leaking around the threads. I have a Volvo TMD22a . I could only get a wrench on the one on the end and tightened it a bit, but still leaking. I was told that I should reinstall them with teflon tape around the threads. Would this be the recommended way to go? I am afraid a sealant may find its way into the system. Secondly, will I be able to bleed the air at the pump , or will I need to bleed the system at the injectors ?
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak
Hi Pat,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Hmmm, I never met an injection pump that didn't come off the engine, and rather easily, but, as I mentioned before, I've got a Northern Lights, not an Onan (although I think they may share the same pump). On mine there are 4 bolts after you pull the pipes and the shut down relay mechanism, the pump then pops off as a unit. Yes, it does kind of look like you're taking off a cover, but it's an integral unit, open on the back so the injector pump pistons get lubricated by the engine oil splash.(That is, when you remove it, you'll see into the engine crank area.) Sounds like you're making progress, though. Will be interested to hear how you make out. How great if it turns out to an easy-peasy fix! Cheers, Craig ---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote : Craig, I just took my neighbor out to the boat for a look see. He works in a nearby marina and is very knowledgeable about almost everything . He thinks as you that we should mark the location and turns ,take the valves out ,replace the O rings and reassemble. I am more inclined to do this, now that it appears that the pump and block are one piece . I did not notice this earlier ,but my friend was looking at how to take it off and discovered it was one piece. He believes you would need to take the front and top covers off of the pump and rebuild in place. Thanks, Pat
-----Original Message----- From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...> Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 5:20 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak Pat, That comment from the shop may have a tad bit of hyperbole. Yes, I think there is a shim under the nipple, but why not pull, seal and replace one at a time and see what you get into? You can always bail out and take it to the shop (or pay the freight for them to remove it). Craig ---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote : Craig, A rebuild shop told me that once removed ,it is essential that adjustments be made and set properly to function. Now my problem is to remove the pump, not an easy job to access the bolts and to disassemble. It is crazy that all three are leaking,I wish I had more time to tackle this,the clock is ticking. Thanks, Pat
-----Original Message----- From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...> Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 1:05 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak Pat - yes, odd all three are leaking; I wonder if maybe they started one at a time and just didn't get noticed. Oh well, doesn't make a difference now. If you unscrew the nipples to add tape, you may be able to replace the O rings instead (or do both). If you've got a shop manual or drawings you'll be able to watch out for other components the nipple holds in. A trick someone gave me is to spray copious amounts of Brake Cleaner around the area before you start - does wonders to get rid of any gritty, oily dirt. As Bill mentioned, you're getting into professional rebuild territory, but, hey, if you pull it off you've won, if not, it's they same rebuild you'd have if you took it straight to a shop. My overhaul was about $600 (including injectors). Tha
t's more than teflon tape, I think. Good luck, Craig SN68 ---In amelyacht owners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote : Craig, The reason that tape was suggested was the concern for sealant clogging things up,which made sense to me. The leak it just around the male threads as they come out of the H.P. pump. , funny all three are leaking. Thanks, Pat SM#123 -----Original Message----- From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...> Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 10:36 am Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak Hi Pat, I think the conventional wisdom is do not use teflon tape as there is risk of a piece getting loose and clogging things downstream. Paste sealant is preferred. Then again, if you're really, really careful, maybe, but why risk it for a cheap tube of paste. I've got a Northern Lights, not Onan, but suspect the hpp assembly is similar, with a reducing nipple coming out of the hpp and the injector pipes fastened to the smaller end. If your is like that, can you definitively tell which end of the nipple is leaking? On mine, a couple of months ago, it was the larger end at the hpp. That's sealed inside the hpp with an O ring so I took it to an
diesel pump shop to redo - I don't open my injector pumps myself - and it had 75
00 hours, so it was due for servicing anyway. If your leak is at the small end to the injector pipe, sure, try some seaant. Good luck with i
t, Craig, SN68 Sangaris ---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote : I am sorry , I failed to mention that the leak is on the Onan Gen engine ,not the Volvo. Thanks, Pat
-----Original Message----- From: sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...> Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 8:09 am Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak I have discovered that all three nipples screwed into the high pressure pump are leaking around the threads. I have a Volvo TMD22a . I could only get a wrench on the one on the end and tightened it a bit, but still leaking. I was told that I should reinstall them with teflon tape around the threads. Would this be the recommended way to go? I am afraid a sealant may find its way into the system. Secondly, will I be able to bleed the air at the pump , or will I need to bleed the system at the injectors ? Thanks, Pat SM Shenanigans
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