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Re: 1980 Sharki (SV TAKOUMI?)

delaney.watkins@gmail.com <no_reply@...>
 

Steve, thank you for the information.  That is incredibly unfortunate. 

If anyone has any information on another Sharki (preferably on the Eastern coast of North America) that is not listed on YW please let us know!
 

Respectfully,


Dee

looking for an Amel
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 1980 Sharki (SV TAKOUMI?)

Steve Leeds
 

Hi Dee,
It's a nice boat but I'm pretty sure it is already sold.

Steve Leeds
Sharki #121

On Friday, October 12, 2018, 8:07:54 AM EDT, delaney.watkins@... wrote:


 


My wife and I are considering traveling down to Florida to look at a 1980 Sharki that is listed on YachtWorld. 

Curious if anyone has any information on this particular vessel beyond what is listed on the YW advert?


A name is partially visible in one of the photos and appears to be TAKOUMI. A google search reveals a blog post in French which appears to be about this vessel. 


Has anyone actually seen this Sharki in person recently? If, so what condition is it in? Is it worth the trip to Florida from Virginia to look at it?


Any insight would be appreciated. 


Respectfully,


Dee

looking for an Amel
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Carbon Dioxide

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Pat,
Sounds like that's the likely culprit. Important reminder to all.
Cheers, Craig


---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Craig, We had the hatch open in the head , so I suppose that was the source. I get up first and start the genset every morning and my wife usually smells exhaust while in the aft cabin. Maybe while moving, enough air is moving thru to keep the level down, once stopped it builds. I can't answer the how or why, just want to report the possibility of high levels of CO ,so people are mindful of it .
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 9:24 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Carbon Dioxide

 
Hi Pat,

So do you think it was from open hatches while you were motoring sucking exhaust into the aft cabin, but that did not set off the alarm then but only after you shut down the engine and presumably spent some time getting stuff off the boat etc., then closed the boat? That seems a really strange sequence of events as there's simply no more CO being generated after you shut down the engine. Do you think if someone was sleeping aft during your six hour motor they might have been subject to high CO levels? Or did CO somehow get created overnight or have been stored somewhere, like the engine room,  and then seeped into the aft cabin.. 

There must be a "rest of the story" somewhere in all this. Being careful is paramount, but knowing what the problem is is arguably more so.

Ours has never gone off with exhaust or battery gassing, but does go off with raw propane and with tr ansmitting on the SSB and with weak batteries.

Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Ryan, The batteries were not being charged. However, I thought of that and placed the unit in the battery compartment,it remained at zero.
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 6:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Carbon Dioxide

 
On my old boat, I saw what you experienced many, many times.  I was initially extremely concerned, as one should be.  But then one day my boat got unplugged from shore power by the dock staff, and that night after plugging it back in I was awakened by the CO alarm..  There had been nothing on board that produces CO in many days.  After much experimentation, I proved to my own satisfaction that the CO alarm was actually sensitive to hydrogen gas produced by the batteries when they were excessively charged.  It seems this is true for many CO alarms.

Take the alarm seriously.  Air the boat out well, and take care not to let exhaust inside.  But also check to see if your battery compartment ventilation is working correctly, and also check th at your batteries aren't overcharging.  Some chargers will keep the voltage too high even though the batteries are full because other loads (e.g. refrigerator) are making the charger believe the batteries are still accepting a lot of current.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 6:39 PM 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Pat,
 
Good to remind us all.
 
Also, it is good to close the rear head porthole if running the genset. Our CO2 alarm went off once in the aft cabin and this was where the gas entered.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Aruba
www.creampuff.us
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 6:09 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Carbon Dioxide
 
 
We motored home for about six hrs. on Monday ,closed up the boat and went up to the house. Tuesday I went out to find the carbon dioxide alarm beeping in the aft cabin. I took it outside the reading went fro 500 or so to zero,took it back in and it went up again. So be aware of fumes entering the boat while motoring,if one was sleeping in the aft cabin for many hours while motoring it could have a bad outcome. I remember about ten years ago , a little girl died nearby while sleeping on her grandparent's motor yacht while the generator was running. The fumes apparently entered thru a forward hatch. Can't imagine how her grandparents felt. Just thought I would pass is on for what its worth.
Pat
SM#123
Re: SM Turnbuckle

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Paul,


Let's see if I've got this about right - the underwriters and bean counters think that statistically the financial risk to their company of old turnbuckles failing is low enough that they'll take it on, although they do want you to replace the wires. 


Will they be crewing with you on your offshore passages?


I kinda think brother Joel still has a point. And I recall the turnbuckles were a relatively small portion of the total rigging cost.


Then again, we lost a mizzen forward lower while coastal cruising off Sicily and, other than the loud crack scaring the livin' bejezus out of us, it in no way jeopardized the boat. It was the wire breaking at the lower swage on the original 18 year old ACMO rigging. We patched it and continued our season, but did replace all rigging (and turnbuckles) that winter.


Cheers,  Craig SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <osterberg.paul.l@...> wrote :


I asked my Insurer Y Yacht about rigg failure and only replacing the wire and not the turnbuckle. The answer wasdo 

 Rig failures on Amels are not a serious problem and your plans for changing the standing rigging  are perfectly acceptable.

Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259

We plan to change the standing rigging this season when we get to Martinique. I assume the current turnbuckles are made from stainless steel and need to be replaced as well. Better material for a turnbuckle is bronze, crome or nickel plated. Then next time to change the standing rigging it should be enough to just replace the wire not the bronze turnbuckles.. Anyone having bronze turnbuckles or anyone having thought of the issue?

Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259

 

Hi Paul,

If they are the original turnbuckles from ACMO, that Amel uses, they are chromed bronze, not stainless steel. Brother Joel insists the best practice is to replace all turnbuckles (& clevis pins, etc.) whenever you do the rigging. He also recommends switching to mechanical fittings like Norseman or Sta-loc, at least on the bottom ends, rather than the swaged fittings that Amel/ACMO used originally. He's got a point.

Cheers, Craig SN68
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Carbon Dioxide

Patrick McAneny
 

Craig, We had the hatch open in the head , so I suppose that was the source. I get up first and start the genset every morning and my wife usually smells exhaust while in the aft cabin. Maybe while moving, enough air is moving thru to keep the level down, once stopped it builds. I can't answer the how or why, just want to report the possibility of high levels of CO ,so people are mindful of it .
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 9:24 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Carbon Dioxide

 
Hi Pat,

So do you think it was from open hatches while you were motoring sucking exhaust into the aft cabin, but that did not set off the alarm then but only after you shut down the engine and presumably spent some time getting stuff off the boat etc., then closed the boat? That seems a really strange sequence of events as there's simply no more CO being generated after you shut down the engine. Do you think if someone was sleeping aft during your six hour motor they might have been subject to high CO levels? Or did CO somehow get created overnight or have been stored somewhere, like the engine room,  and then seeped into the aft cabin.. 

There must be a "rest of the story" somewhere in all this. Being careful is paramount, but knowing what the problem is is arguably more so.

Ours has never gone off with exhaust or battery gassing, but does go off with raw propane and with tr ansmitting on the SSB and with weak batteries.

Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Ryan, The batteries were not being charged. However, I thought of that and placed the unit in the battery compartment,it remained at zero.
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 6:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Carbon Dioxide

 
On my old boat, I saw what you experienced many, many times.  I was initially extremely concerned, as one should be.  But then one day my boat got unplugged from shore power by the dock staff, and that night after plugging it back in I was awakened by the CO alarm..  There had been nothing on board that produces CO in many days.  After much experimentation, I proved to my own satisfaction that the CO alarm was actually sensitive to hydrogen gas produced by the batteries when they were excessively charged.  It seems this is true for many CO alarms.

Take the alarm seriously.  Air the boat out well, and take care not to let exhaust inside.  But also check to see if your battery compartment ventilation is working correctly, and also check th at your batteries aren't overcharging.  Some chargers will keep the voltage too high even though the batteries are full because other loads (e.g. refrigerator) are making the charger believe the batteries are still accepting a lot of current.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 6:39 PM 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Pat,
 
Good to remind us all.
 
Also, it is good to close the rear head porthole if running the genset. Our CO2 alarm went off once in the aft cabin and this was where the gas entered.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Aruba
www.creampuff.us
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 6:09 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Carbon Dioxide
 
 
We motored home for about six hrs. on Monday ,closed up the boat and went up to the house. Tuesday I went out to find the carbon dioxide alarm beeping in the aft cabin. I took it outside the reading went fro 500 or so to zero,took it back in and it went up again. So be aware of fumes entering the boat while motoring,if one was sleeping in the aft cabin for many hours while motoring it could have a bad outcome. I remember about ten years ago , a little girl died nearby while sleeping on her grandparent's motor yacht while the generator was running. The fumes apparently entered thru a forward hatch. Can't imagine how her grandparents felt. Just thought I would pass is on for what its worth.
Pat
SM#123
1980 Sharki (SV TAKOUMI?)

delaney.watkins@gmail.com <no_reply@...>
 


My wife and I are considering traveling down to Florida to look at a 1980 Sharki that is listed on YachtWorld. 

Curious if anyone has any information on this particular vessel beyond what is listed on the YW advert?


A name is partially visible in one of the photos and appears to be TAKOUMI. A google search reveals a blog post in French which appears to be about this vessel. 


Has anyone actually seen this Sharki in person recently? If, so what condition is it in? Is it worth the trip to Florida from Virginia to look at it?


Any insight would be appreciated. 


Respectfully,


Dee

looking for an Amel
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toe pulley (headsail)

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

-- Bernard Ancelle
Comboursière
38350 St Honoré France
0607 490 415 0480 806088
ba90   AT ...orange.fr & ba...AT....ancelle.net


Le 11/10/2018 à 22:00, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] a écrit :
 

Merci Jean-Luc,


It seems like a good solution

Can you give me the email address again....yahoo doesn't like @

Please write it like           ba at abcde.com

Thanks again
Salutations
Alan
Elyse SM437
Noumea


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Hello Alain,
A friend of me make me a prototype of the pulley in a technical plastic, it seems very, very fine, and with plastic NO corrosion is possible !
He test the pulley at 500kN ..

The probem with the AMEL pulley is the MEGA corrosion between the steinless steel and the aluminium.

This caused :
1-My first AMEL poulley was brocken in 3 parts !
2-My second AMEL poulley was not brocken BUT the steinless schaft was in bad condition ....

I am very angry after AMEL because the pulley is of poor quality that the piece is not available, cost for 2 pieces 500 or 600 euros ....

You can contact my friend, he will be happy to buy a cople of pulley
Bernard Ancelle
ANCELLE
Comboursière
38350 Saint Honoré
0607 490 415
0480 806088
ba@...




Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma A/C saltwater plumbing - Using barnacle buster.

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Eric,

 

I have done this as a regular part of maintenance every 6 month for the past 5 years. It is perfectly fine to use phosphoric acid or barnacle buster on the AC units. I don’t use BB anymore. I just buy phosphoric acid in the paint department of a hardware store or Sherman Williams for about ¼ of the BB price.

 

I use a set up just as you describe to re-circulate the acid. Be sure to use a filter in the bucket to catch the junk. I put a mesh balloon over the hose dumping into the bucket so the junk is not re-circulated.

 

If you use the concentrated BB which is about 17% phosphoric acid, use a solution of 30% acid 70% water in the bucket. There is a lot of water in the pipeline to add to the dilution.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Aruba

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 11:49 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma A/C saltwater plumbing - Using barnacle buster.

 

 

Hi Kent,

Are we speaking about the AC cooling line?

My plan was you use the Barnacle buster circulating tank and hook it up to the input of the engine room

Manifold, then run a garden hose from the output seacock and back to the circulating bucket.

They suggested to use it for 4-6 hours.

Did you dilute the barnacle buster and if so what ratio?

I will also do so with the engine and genset. I plan on disconnecting the water input to the watermaker while doing this.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 11:14 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma A/C saltwater plumbing - Using barnacle buster.

 

 

I just flush with B.B. and let it sit i the lines over night once a year.  So far all lines and manifold are free of any growth or scale.

Kent

SM 243

Kristy


On Oct 11, 2018, at 10:56 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Has anyone used barnacle buster and a circulating pump on the ac cooling water lines?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 
Re: SM Turnbuckle

Paul Osterberg
 

I asked my Insurer Y Yacht about rigg failure and only replacing the wire and not the turnbuckle. The answer was

 Rig failures on Amels are not a serious problem and your plans for changing the standing rigging  are perfectly acceptable.

Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Autoprop vs Maxprop and specs of each

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Hi Danny

Nice to hear from you and thank you for these tips.

I had not thought of greasing under water but of course if one pushes the grease right through and out there would be no risk of saltwater ingress. Good thought.

Of course I need say no more good things about the brilliance of the Super Maramu's as I would be preaching to the converted on this site.

Best regards
Colin

On Fri, Oct 12, 2018 at 12:57 AM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Colin,

great that you are going so well. There were queries on the forum a while back about when to reef, when to heave to, and when to wish you were not there. Your experience mirrors mine. The SM is a phenomenal off shore design and she looks after you in conditions where other designs are in trouble or at the least giving the crew a hard time. We did a big crossing (1200 miles, 200 a day) in boisterous conditions and all my crew including Yvonne agreed if we lived to 100 we would never get a dream run like that again. A Beneteau 50 came in after us saying, "Oh my God, it was hell out there" Horses for courses. Is your wife (sorry forget her name) doing the passages with you? As to greasing the prop. Mate of mine once said to me, grease and oil are the cheapest spare parts you will ever buy. I have greased mine in water easily (so long as you are not prone to dropping little screws). The trick is to have several spares, then you will never drop one.

Kind Regards

Danny

On 11 October 2018 at 20:44 "Sailing Island Pearl colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi Alan

Thanks for those comments which make me wonder if this is just a prop grease issue??? Let me explain ...
Firstly I should say that this boat has never been cruised before Lauren and I set off 1.75 years ago. Up until before I owned it the previous owner had done just 600 hrs on the engine and half that on the generator in 10 years of ownership, plus employed an Amel technician bi-weekly for 10 years to care for her. Based on this I doubt that I could have any U Drive issues or major prop wear as we have been very careful owners too.

I had originally intended to do my normal 2 year haul-out in Cape Town but we became pinned down by bad weather in Durban unable to get any 33hr+ weather windows to sail down to East London on this notoriously dangerous coastline. Because of this, and with time for the Cape Town haul-out dwindling, I haul out in Durban instead, and did the normal prop wearing bearing replacement, bottom paint, plus lifted the waterline stripe.

On turning the prop blades out the water they didn't seem as smooth as normal, and on top of this, in my rush to get back into the water when a possible good weather window was forming, I did not re-grease the prop. That could possibly be the source of my issues, and rather foolish as I have always been so painstakingly careful to follow each and every step to the letter!! In fact I have never greased this prop as I simply sent it back to Bruntons last time to do the bearing change and grease in their factory.

In order to make a run directly for Cape Town (900nm approx) I sailed out of Durban early into the end of the previous SW front and therefore had to motor sail for a day before we picked up good wind and current. Over the next 3 days we shot down the coast breaking all our past records with 3 consecutive 200nm days with our best ever 24hrs clocking up 225nm!! Great sailing indeed and we ran as hard as we could direct for Cape Town right out at sea with pole out and all sails up until rounding Cape Agulus (most southern tip of Africa) where we had to turn NW into un-predicted 30kts head wind and 4+ knot adverse current making for hard motoring to maintain just 3 kts forward motion. When I say hard, that means max 2000 RPM on the Yanmar 75 (very seldom would I ever run the motor above this).

It was at this time that I noticed more prop noise and that there was a slight resultant vibration on the top of the UDrive unit only, not on the main engine side at all. We immediately reduced to usual 1400 - 1600 max revs and crawled into Cape Town to ensure no damage could be done. At those revs there was absolutely no vibration visable at all.

I will drop you a personal email sometime regarding the Indian Ocean crossing as it has been awesome and I hghly recommend it, but course you can also follow our videos on "Sailing Island Pearl"  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmvAE1BtOM7J8orw237BDgQ?view_as=subscriber , but in summary from far east Indonesia through Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Maldives, Chagos, Rodrigues, Mauritius, Runion, Madagascar and now South Africa we have spent 1.75 years in the Indian Ocean and absolutely loved every minute of it. We have faced 50+ knots, 6m+ seas and this boat has been unbelievable as it never ever felt unsafe or out of control to either myself or any crew on board. These are outstanding boats indeed and I learn to respect Captain Amel more and more every day that I sail and live aboard the Amel Super Maramu.

Best regards
Colin Streeter
SV Island Pearl II, SM#332.
Royal Cape Yacht Club, Cape Town

On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 12:17 PM divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Colin,


i don't know where that information came from about later SMs having Maxprops.
Elyse is 2004 and we have the Autoprop.
i changed the bearings 4 years ago, even though there were no issues. It wasn't a difficult job with the right tools.
 We've since put 1300 hours on the engine and no problems with the Autoprop, no strange vibrations.
I grease it every time we are out of the water for whatever reason.

We'll do the bearings again next haul for C-drive, antifoul etc.

How was your Indian Ocean crossing ?

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Noumea

 

 


--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445

 


 


 



--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Autoprop vs Maxprop and specs of each

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Hi Jose

Very interesting information from you and I fully agree with all your comments. I have never had a Maxprop yet but this is the second boat on which we have had the autoprop and really like this prop for all the reasons your theory presents.

On Island Pearl II we have now done 3000 hrs on the Yanmar 75 (I absolutely love this engine too!) and 90% of those hours would have been done at revs between 1400 - 1600 at which we cruise and motor sail often, however we can actually do 9.5kts at 3400 - 3600 revs (tested both ways to ensure no current impact). I am not so sure that this speed would be possible with a fixed prop or the Max Prop or any other brand. 

This may sound ridiculous or far fetched, however I can tell you a story of how this top speed saved our lives when a large angry steel Indonesian fishing boat tried to ram and sink us in the dead of the night with just my wife and I on board, with no guns or any means of defense! The nearest yacht to us was 15nm in front, and we were probably over 100nm. from our next safe port. This boat chased us for two hours and appeared to be doing 9.3kts and was gaining on us as the seas were rough, until the wind came up hard enough that our poles out genoa and all sails up took us over 10kts. We ran like hell with all lights, radar, AIS etc off for 5 hours at this speed! In my view the autoprop is an excellent match with the 75HP Yanmar and also provides brilliant fuel consumption extending our motoring range to huge distances compared to larger motors or different props.

Best regards
Colin Streeter
SV Island Pearl II, SM#332
Cape Town, South Africa


On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 7:57 PM jvenegas@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Great story and inspiring to all of us close to making the jump.  I will have plenty of questions about your trip after I watch your videos.


As to the prop, there are three main differences between the Auto and the Max, all affecting performance (at least in theory). 
 I) Autoprop has beautifully shaped blades with an angle of attack that varies radially and becomes smaller as you move away from the shaft. This "twist" is key to increase efficiency and avoid cavitation as it accommodates the changes in relative velocity of the blade with respect to the water that increases with the radius.   In contrast, the blades of the Max prop have no twit; they are flat.  Of course, this reduces the drag when the engine is off compared with the Autoprop.  
2) Autoprop has blades that adjust the angle of attack depending on the speed of the boat.  This maintains thrust during motor sailing even as the wind speed increases.  The auto prop blades have a constant angle of attack and, at constant RPM, the thrust decreases as the speed of the boat increases.  In fact, at a certain boat speed, the thurst becomes zero as the prop just cuts through the water.
3) Depending on where it happens, growth on an Autoprop blade is prone to create much more imbalance and vibration than one equivalent on the Max.

 Although these are theoretical reasons based on fluid mechanics, I don't know the extent to which they affect the fuel consumption or boat speed since I have not made the measurement.  I think the increased drag of the Autoprop during sailing should not be noticeable but the difference in efficiency may be more critical in long passages if motoring or motor-sailing is called for.   So, personally, I prefer the Autoprop for our boat because we tend to motor or motor-sail more than I used to in my previous coastal sailing boat.

Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM 2K 178
Boston









 



--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Autoprop vs Maxprop and specs of each

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Thank you Bill

Your advice is most helpful as always.

Best regards
Colin

On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 6:04 AM greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 


Colin,

If I was starting form a bare prop shaft, or from a fixed prop, my preference would be the Maxprop, but in your case, you have the Autoprop. I definitely agree with Bill Rouse that the performance differences between the two make it hard to justify the expense of changing from one to the other.

You will find many more productive ways of spending the same amount of money!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

We serviced our autoprop 18 months ago but with so much time in Asia, Maldives etc with little to no wind we have already exceeded the recommended 800 - 1000hrs use after which it is time to re-service the Autoprop by changing all bearings.


Having done 1400 hrs since the last autoprop bearing replacement we have developed a very slight vibration noticeable at engine speeds over 1800 rpms which we saw previously and which disappeared as son as the autoprop bearings were replaced last time.


I now hear that Amel moved the spec from Autoprop to Maxprop due to similar issues some years after our 2001 SM was manufactured?


Question 1.

Does anyone on this group know the specs of the correct sized Maxprop which would match our Yanmar 75hp on the SM? If not, what is the spec of the Maxprop which Amel fitted to later SM's?


Question 2.

Does anyone here have experience of both the Autoprop and the Maxprop on their SM's? Any noticable difference in performance, top speed and prop noise?


We are in touch with Bruntons in UK and will probably order a replacement bearing set in the next day or so but before I spend that money I would like to think about the alternative of rather moving to a new Maxprop. Any ideas on the prices of these as I believe they are significantly cheaper than the Autoprop?


We arrived into Cape Town early this morning after spending the past 1.75 years seeing all of the Indian Ocean. Great to be in one of the worlds most beautiful cities and back in the Atlantic Ocean. We depart Cape Town for Caribbean in late November.


Thanks


Colin Streeter

SV Island Pearl II, sm #332

Royal Cape Yacht Club, Cape Town, South Africa



--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Autoprop vs Maxprop and specs of each

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Hi Bill

Thank you once again for this very helpful information. As per my earlier direct email, I will keep you informed as we proceed down your list of potential issues.

Best regards
Colin

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 11:10 PM Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Colin,

In the years since Henri left, Amel has eliminated, or changed many things. Most of these were to reduce cost. A few, I believe, were to change to off-the-shelf components rather than Amel-made. These reasons really make sense to me, especially when I see SMs that have never rigged dual downwind poles. I would not read anything else into the Amel change of propellers.

Bruntons AutoProp states 800 hours, but most of my clients will go 1200-1600 without issue. I installed new bearings at 1600, having greased the bearings every 2 years.

Both MaxProp and AutoProp are good feathering propellers. I recommend that you renew the bearings in your AutoProp because you already own the AutoProp.

Your vibration could be worn motor mounts and C-Drive mounts; and worn Vetus Coupling rubber donuts. The worn motor mounts could have possibly caused your engine to be slightly out-of-alignment with the C-Drive. You could have loose bolts on the Coupling. And, don't forget, vibration can come from a slightly fouled propeller.

I hope this helps you make a decision.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School  http://www.amelschool..com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

Any opinions and conclusions expressed in this message are solely those of the author and should not be construed as representing the opinion of an expert. Manufacturers' and Expert's precautions must be considered when dealing with mechanical and/or electrical systems to ensure that you are NOT harmed, and/or the device and/or system is NOT ruined. If in doubt, do not touch any mechanical and/or electrical device or system referred to above.


On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 1:53 PM Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Colin, I never had the Autoprop ,but I just installed a Max prop classic. I paid about $3400. ,I am very happy with the motoring performance ,as good as the fixed prop. I have yet sailed with it ,but should have less drag than an Autoprop. I have a 78 hp. Volvo TMD22A ,22" prop set at 20 degrees ,approx. a 15/12 pitch. Top rpm is now 200 more at 3300 rpms and 8.5 kts. in flat water, new bottom.

Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: colin..d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Oct 10, 2018 12:42 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Autoprop vs Maxprop and specs of each

 
We serviced our autoprop 18 months ago but with so much time in Asia, Maldives etc with little to no wind we have already exceeded the recommended 800 - 1000hrs use after which it is time to re-service the Autoprop by changing all bearings.

Having done 1400 hrs since the last autoprop bearing replacement we have developed a very slight vibration noticeable at engine speeds over 1800 rpms which we saw previously and which disappeared as son as the autoprop bearings were replaced last time.

I now hear that Amel moved the spec from Autoprop to Maxprop due to similar issues some years after our 2001 SM was manufactured?

Question 1.
Does anyone on this group know the specs of the correct sized Maxprop which would match our Yanmar 75hp on the SM? If not, what is the spec of the Maxprop which Amel fitted to later SM's?

Question 2.
Does anyone here have experience of both the Autoprop and the Maxprop on their SM's? Any noticable difference in performance, top speed and prop noise?

We are in touch with Bruntons in UK and will probably order a replacement bearing set in the next day or so but before I spend that money I would like to think about the alternative of rather moving to a new Maxprop. Any ideas on the prices of these as I believe they are significantly cheaper than the Autoprop?

We arrived into Cape Town early this morning after spending the past 1..75 years seeing all of the Indian Ocean. Great to be in one of the worlds most beautiful cities and back in the Atlantic Ocean. We depart Cape Town for Caribbean in late November.

Thanks

Colin Streeter
SV Island Pearl II, sm #332
Royal Cape Yacht Club, Cape Town, South Africa



--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Autoprop vs Maxprop and specs of each

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Hi Pat

Thank you very much for this most helpful information. Today I received a quotation here in Cape Town on the Maxprop and it is R56,000 + 15% VAT for what they call the Maxprop 111 40mm shaft to your same spec.

As the two Bill's have recommended I will stay with the Autoprop which I really do like.

Bill Rouse also just reminded me that any fishing line caught around the prop would give these same small vibrations and the other thing I did differently was to put the normal Micron 350 antifoul paint on the prop since my usual "Propspeed" paint was not available in South Africa and their replacement product has poor reviews with some of the other locals I met in the yard.

Quite possibly the micron paint has partially peeled off causing these minor vibrations? We dive on the prop tomorrow.

Best regards
Colin

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:53 PM Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Colin, I never had the Autoprop ,but I just installed a Max prop classic. I paid about $3400. ,I am very happy with the motoring performance ,as good as the fixed prop. I have yet sailed with it ,but should have less drag than an Autoprop. I have a 78 hp. Volvo TMD22A ,22" prop set at 20 degrees ,approx. a 15/12 pitch. Top rpm is now 200 more at 3300 rpms and 8.5 kts. in flat water, new bottom.

Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Oct 10, 2018 12:42 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Autoprop vs Maxprop and specs of each

 
We serviced our autoprop 18 months ago but with so much time in Asia, Maldives etc with little to no wind we have already exceeded the recommended 800 - 1000hrs use after which it is time to re-service the Autoprop by changing all bearings.

Having done 1400 hrs since the last autoprop bearing replacement we have developed a very slight vibration noticeable at engine speeds over 1800 rpms which we saw previously and which disappeared as son as the autoprop bearings were replaced last time.

I now hear that Amel moved the spec from Autoprop to Maxprop due to similar issues some years after our 2001 SM was manufactured?

Question 1.
Does anyone on this group know the specs of the correct sized Maxprop which would match our Yanmar 75hp on the SM? If not, what is the spec of the Maxprop which Amel fitted to later SM's?

Question 2.
Does anyone here have experience of both the Autoprop and the Maxprop on their SM's? Any noticable difference in performance, top speed and prop noise?

We are in touch with Bruntons in UK and will probably order a replacement bearing set in the next day or so but before I spend that money I would like to think about the alternative of rather moving to a new Maxprop. Any ideas on the prices of these as I believe they are significantly cheaper than the Autoprop?

We arrived into Cape Town early this morning after spending the past 1.75 years seeing all of the Indian Ocean. Great to be in one of the worlds most beautiful cities and back in the Atlantic Ocean. We depart Cape Town for Caribbean in late November.

Thanks

Colin Streeter
SV Island Pearl II, sm #332
Royal Cape Yacht Club, Cape Town, South Africa



--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma A/C saltwater plumbing - Using barnacle buster.

eric freedman
 

Hi Kent,

Are we speaking about the AC cooling line?

My plan was you use the Barnacle buster circulating tank and hook it up to the input of the engine room

Manifold, then run a garden hose from the output seacock and back to the circulating bucket.

They suggested to use it for 4-6 hours.

Did you dilute the barnacle buster and if so what ratio?

I will also do so with the engine and genset. I plan on disconnecting the water input to the watermaker while doing this.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 11:14 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma A/C saltwater plumbing - Using barnacle buster.

 

 

I just flush with B.B. and let it sit i the lines over night once a year.  So far all lines and manifold are free of any growth or scale.

Kent

SM 243

Kristy


On Oct 11, 2018, at 10:56 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Has anyone used barnacle buster and a circulating pump on the ac cooling water lines?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma A/C saltwater plumbing - Using barnacle buster.

karkauai
 

I just flush with B.B. and let it sit i the lines over night once a year.  So far all lines and manifold are free of any growth or scale.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Oct 11, 2018, at 10:56 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Has anyone used barnacle buster and a circulating pump on the ac cooling water lines?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Climma A/C saltwater plumbing - Using barnacle buster.

eric freedman
 

Has anyone used barnacle buster and a circulating pump on the ac cooling water lines?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Carbon Dioxide

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Pat,

So do you think it was from open hatches while you were motoring sucking exhaust into the aft cabin, but that did not set off the alarm then but only after you shut down the engine and presumably spent some time getting stuff off the boat etc., then closed the boat? That seems a really strange sequence of events as there's simply no more CO being generated after you shut down the engine. Do you think if someone was sleeping aft during your six hour motor they might have been subject to high CO levels? Or did CO somehow get created overnight or have been stored somewhere, like the engine room,  and then seeped into the aft cabin.. 

There must be a "rest of the story" somewhere in all this. Being careful is paramount, but knowing what the problem is is arguably more so.

Ours has never gone off with exhaust or battery gassing, but does go off with raw propane and with transmitting on the SSB and with weak batteries.

Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Ryan, The batteries were not being charged. However, I thought of that and placed the unit in the battery compartment,it remained at zero.
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 6:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Carbon Dioxide

 
On my old boat, I saw what you experienced many, many times.  I was initially extremely concerned, as one should be.  But then one day my boat got unplugged from shore power by the dock staff, and that night after plugging it back in I was awakened by the CO alarm..  There had been nothing on board that produces CO in many days.  After much experimentation, I proved to my own satisfaction that the CO alarm was actually sensitive to hydrogen gas produced by the batteries when they were excessively charged.  It seems this is true for many CO alarms.

Take the alarm seriously.  Air the boat out well, and take care not to let exhaust inside.  But also check to see if your battery compartment ventilation is working correctly, and also check that your batteries aren't overcharging.  Some chargers will keep the voltage too high even though the batteries are full because other loads (e.g. refrigerator) are making the charger believe the batteries are still accepting a lot of current.

Ryan and Kelly
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 6:39 PM 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Pat,
 
Good to remind us all.
 
Also, it is good to close the rear head porthole if running the genset. Our CO2 alarm went off once in the aft cabin and this was where the gas entered.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Aruba
www.creampuff.us
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 6:09 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Carbon Dioxide
 
 
We motored home for about six hrs. on Monday ,closed up the boat and went up to the house. Tuesday I went out to find the carbon dioxide alarm beeping in the aft cabin. I took it outside the reading went fro 500 or so to zero,took it back in and it went up again. So be aware of fumes entering the boat while motoring,if one was sleeping in the aft cabin for many hours while motoring it could have a bad outcome. I remember about ten years ago , a little girl died nearby while sleeping on her grandparent's motor yacht while the generator was running. The fumes apparently entered thru a forward hatch. Can't imagine how her grandparents felt. Just thought I would pass is on for what its worth.
Pat
SM#123
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

Patrick McAneny
 

I just want to again correct my previous post ,where I said the pump was connected to the block. I now realize after watching You Tube, that the pump is held in place by four bolts and is located on top of what I thought the pump was. I watched a few videos where guys took out the valves ,replaced two O rings and reinstalled the valves ,bled the lines ,no problem and no need to remove the pump.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 6:45 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

 
Craig, I just took my neighbor out to the boat for a look see. He works in a nearby marina and is very knowledgeable about almost everything . He thinks as you that we should mark the location and turns ,take the valves out ,replace the O rings and reassemble. I am more inclined to do this, now that it appears that the pump and block are one piece . I did not notice this earlier ,but my friend was looking at how to take it off and discovered it was one piece. He believes you would need to take the front and top covers off of the pump and rebuild in place. 
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 5:20 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

 
Pat, That comment from the shop may have a tad bit of hyperbole. Yes, I think there is a shim under the nipple, but why not pull, seal and replace one at a time and see what you get into? You can always bail out and take it to the shop (or pay the freight for them to remove it).
Craig
---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Craig, A rebuild shop told me that once removed ,it is essential that adjustments be made and set properly to function. Now my problem is to remove the pump, not an easy job to access the bolts and to disassemble. It is crazy that all three are leaking,I wish I had more time to tackle this,the clock is ticking.
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 1:05 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

 
Pat - yes, odd all three are leaking; I wonder if maybe they started one at a time and just didn't get noticed. Oh well, doesn't make a difference now. If you unscrew the nipples to add tape, you may be able to replace the O rings instead (or do both). If you've got a shop manual or drawings you'll be able to watch out for other components the nipple holds in. A trick someone gave me is to spray copious amounts of Brake Cleaner around the area before you start - does wonders to get rid of any gritty, oily dirt. 

As Bill mentioned, you're getting into professional rebuild territory, but, hey, if you pull it off you've won, if not, it's they same rebuild you'd have if you took it straight to a shop. My overhaul was about $600 (including injectors). Tha t's more than teflon tape, I think. 

Good luck, Craig SN68


---In amelyacht owners@..., wrote :

Craig, The reason that tape was suggested was the concern for sealant clogging things up,which made sense to me. The leak it just around the male threads as they come out of the H.P. pump. , funny all three are leaking.
Thanks,
Pat 
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 10:36 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

 
Hi Pat,
I think the conventional wisdom is do not use teflon tape as there is risk of a piece getting loose and clogging things downstream. Paste sealant is preferred. Then again, if you're really, really careful, maybe, but why risk it for a cheap tube of paste.

I've got a Northern Lights, not Onan, but suspect the hpp assembly is similar, with a reducing nipple coming out of the hpp and the injector pipes fastened to the smaller end. If your is like that, can you definitively tell which end of the nipple is leaking? 

On mine, a couple of months ago, it was the larger end at the hpp.  That's sealed inside the hpp with an O ring so I took it to an diesel pump shop to redo - I don't open my injector pumps myself - and it had 75 00 hours, so it was due for servicing anyway. If your leak is at the small end to the injector pipe, sure, try some seaant.

Good luck with i t,  Craig, SN68 Sangaris



---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

I am sorry , I failed to mention that the leak is on the Onan Gen engine ,not the Volvo. 
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 8:09 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

 
I have discovered that all three nipples screwed into the high pressure pump are leaking around the threads. I have a Volvo TMD22a . I could only get a wrench on the one on the end and tightened it a bit, but still leaking. I was told that I should reinstall them with teflon tape  around the threads. Would this be the recommended way to go? I am afraid a sealant may find its way into the system. Secondly, will I be able to bleed the air at the pump , or will I need to bleed the system at the injectors ?
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Pat,
Hmmm, I never met an injection pump that didn't come off the engine, and rather easily, but, as I mentioned before, I've got a Northern Lights, not an Onan (although I think they may share the same pump). 

On mine there are 4 bolts after you pull the pipes and the shut down relay mechanism, the pump then pops off as a unit. Yes, it does kind of look like you're taking off a cover, but it's an integral unit, open on the back so the injector pump pistons get lubricated by the engine oil splash.(That is, when you remove it, you'll see into the engine crank area.)

Sounds like you're making progress, though. Will be interested to hear how you make out. How great if it turns out to an easy-peasy fix!
Cheers, Craig

---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Craig, I just took my neighbor out to the boat for a look see. He works in a nearby marina and is very knowledgeable about almost everything . He thinks as you that we should mark the location and turns ,take the valves out ,replace the O rings and reassemble. I am more inclined to do this, now that it appears that the pump and block are one piece . I did not notice this earlier ,but my friend was looking at how to take it off and discovered it was one piece. He believes you would need to take the front and top covers off of the pump and rebuild in place. 
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 5:20 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

 
Pat, That comment from the shop may have a tad bit of hyperbole. Yes, I think there is a shim under the nipple, but why not pull, seal and replace one at a time and see what you get into? You can always bail out and take it to the shop (or pay the freight for them to remove it).
Craig
---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Craig, A rebuild shop told me that once removed ,it is essential that adjustments be made and set properly to function. Now my problem is to remove the pump, not an easy job to access the bolts and to disassemble. It is crazy that all three are leaking,I wish I had more time to tackle this,the clock is ticking.
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 1:05 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

 
Pat - yes, odd all three are leaking; I wonder if maybe they started one at a time and just didn't get noticed. Oh well, doesn't make a difference now. If you unscrew the nipples to add tape, you may be able to replace the O rings instead (or do both). If you've got a shop manual or drawings you'll be able to watch out for other components the nipple holds in. A trick someone gave me is to spray copious amounts of Brake Cleaner around the area before you start - does wonders to get rid of any gritty, oily dirt. 

As Bill mentioned, you're getting into professional rebuild territory, but, hey, if you pull it off you've won, if not, it's they same rebuild you'd have if you took it straight to a shop. My overhaul was about $600 (including injectors). Tha t's more than teflon tape, I think. 

Good luck, Craig SN68


---In amelyacht owners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Craig, The reason that tape was suggested was the concern for sealant clogging things up,which made sense to me. The leak it just around the male threads as they come out of the H.P. pump. , funny all three are leaking.
Thanks,
Pat 
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 10:36 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

 
Hi Pat,
I think the conventional wisdom is do not use teflon tape as there is risk of a piece getting loose and clogging things downstream. Paste sealant is preferred. Then again, if you're really, really careful, maybe, but why risk it for a cheap tube of paste.

I've got a Northern Lights, not Onan, but suspect the hpp assembly is similar, with a reducing nipple coming out of the hpp and the injector pipes fastened to the smaller end. If your is like that, can you definitively tell which end of the nipple is leaking? 

On mine, a couple of months ago, it was the larger end at the hpp.  That's sealed inside the hpp with an O ring so I took it to an diesel pump shop to redo - I don't open my injector pumps myself - and it had 75 00 hours, so it was due for servicing anyway. If your leak is at the small end to the injector pipe, sure, try some seaant.

Good luck with i t,  Craig, SN68 Sangaris



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

I am sorry , I failed to mention that the leak is on the Onan Gen engine ,not the Volvo. 
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 8:09 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diesel leak

 
I have discovered that all three nipples screwed into the high pressure pump are leaking around the threads. I have a Volvo TMD22a . I could only get a wrench on the one on the end and tightened it a bit, but still leaking. I was told that I should reinstall them with teflon tape  around the threads. Would this be the recommended way to go? I am afraid a sealant may find its way into the system. Secondly, will I be able to bleed the air at the pump , or will I need to bleed the system at the injectors ?
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
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