Date   

A 55 # 9 : Chargeing and mastershunts

Stuart Hemingway
 

Hello Joerg,

 

Thank you for your reply regarding the two shunts .

 

There are two and they appear to installed in parallel.

 

We don’t know why.

 

We hope to progress this directly .

 

Thank you for your suggestion of Thierry & Stephane at Pochon .

 

Do you have Stephane’s full email address please.

 

Stuart

 

A.55 in Panama

 

 



_._,_._,_


 


Re: Possible damage from transport ships stacks. Has anyone experienced?

Porter McRoberts
 

Thank you for all the comments and suggestions. Our Ibis is prepared for the worst despite multiple attempts to allay concern. Better safe than sorry! I’ll relay our success or failures.

Loading today. Fingers crossed.

Porter
A54-152


Excuse the errors.
Sent from my IPhone
Www.fouribis.net

On Jul 19, 2020, at 1:16 PM, Doug Smith via groups.io <dugsmith98=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Porter,
We just unloaded from a transatlantic shipment, Palma to Ft Lauderdale, and left the main and mizzen in place. All other canvas removed, and no real issues besides the salt, and general dust from sitting on a transport ship. And of course the recent Saharan dust storm that crossed the atlantic with it. And of course the locusts and plague...2020...

Doug Smith
S/V Aventura, Amel 54-113
Deltaville, VA USA

On 7/14/20, 12:03 AM, "Porter McRoberts via groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io on behalf of portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Ladies and Gents.

A quick question if you would. We’re in the midst of shipping our Amel out of NZ with Sevenstar. Incidentally the delivery skipper encountered the marina manager who relayed multiple horror stories of transport ship’s smokestack ash and embers causing severe burns to sails, canvas sailboat decks etc. Needless to say I was taken aback. This was never discussed in our pregame !!!
Has anyone else encountered such issues?

I’d really appreciate any input.

Many thanks.

Porter

A54-152.




Excuse the errors.
Sent from my IPhone
Www.fouribis.net









Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
 

Hi John,
Thanks a lot!!
Best regards,
Helen and Kostas 


On 19 Jul 2020, at 4:00 PM, John Clark <john.biohead@...> wrote:


My friend here in St Thomas has SM #24. He also has the aluminum drive.   Didier in Martinique rebuilt his drive a couple of years ago.  I will forward this to him and see if he has any insight.

Regards,  John

SV Annie SM 37
St Thomas USVI

On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 11:31 AM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
I did not understand your original email.

Apparently, you have the original aluminum C-Drive. I have never seen one of these. Someone told me that Amel replaced these. I do not know if that replacement story is accurate or not.

I do not believe that I can help you.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 10:11 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:
I’m sending the plans Maud sent me. It’s not exactly like any of them.
We’ve measured the difference between the aluminum and the fibreglass and it’s 3mm, but again there is nothing to hold an O-ring in place.

Many thanks,
Helen and Kostas Meditation SM 29 in 1990


On 17 Jul 2020, at 6:04 PM, Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi via groups.io <helenmi57=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the prompt reply!
Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. 
It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!!
Thanks again 
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990

<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>


On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


Re: Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage

INUS - BUSCH
 

I have it inflated on the foredeck and it is strapped upside down. Very easy. The visibility from the helm is a little restricted, but for me the best solution so far.

 

Dieter

Fal-lera, Sharki #135

 

Von: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Im Auftrag von smiles bernard via groups.io
Gesendet: Freitag, 17. Juli 2020 19:48
An: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage

 

Wow that’s light!

When offshore do you use chicks on the deck and deflate or just strap it down inflated?

 

Likewise I’ve never seen the pudgy before - love a dinghy with a sail !

 

All the best

 

 



On 17 Jul 2020, at 14:31, INUS - BUSCH via groups.io <inusbusch@...> wrote:



@ Aras:  

I have never seen a Portland pudgy, it looks nice and sails!

What I have is a UL 270 Aluminum from 3d tender, inflatable with aluminium bottom, which fits on the fore deck of my sharki, weight is only 28 kg!

 

Dieter

Fal-lera, Sharki #135

 

Von: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Im Auftrag von Aras
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 16. Juli 2020 15:16
An: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Group Moderators <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Vintage Maramu dinghy stowage

 

I traded in our inflatable for a Portland Pudgy. She tows quite nicely, however on longer passages I do have to mount it on the foredeck.  AS with the Maramu,  the Sharki's stern tapers quite a bit and the aft deck is not quite big enough to stow the Pudgy there.  So far I've been  stowing it upside down.  It makes it a bit harder to load and unload off the deck. I'm working on building a new cradle that would allow me to stow upright.

 

One other option I'm thinking about are low profile dink davits made of carbon fiber [the mizzen boom overhangs transom].  The davits would help greatly on short passages and make it easier to move boat around in tight places and improve visibility. Does anyone know of an outfit that works with carbon fiber?

 

Aras Grinius

S/V FIASCO

Sharki #163 1988

 

On Wed, Jul 15, 2020 at 2:15 PM smiles bernard via groups.io <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi there

I’d be really interested to hear of others Maramu dinghy choice wrt stowage
The transom of the Maramu is quite a bit narrower than the SM and later models - as such davits don’t feel right as any dink would overhang the sides If the boat a lot

Plus I have a much treasured Hydrovane on the back

We currently carry an inflatable and also a nesting affair I made

The nesting dinghy stows Inverted under the mizzen boom but that space is not big enough for the inflatable which I pack up and stow in the fwd locker

Really interested in the options people have explored.

Does anyone mount their dinghy right side up on the deck on the foredeck? I’ve seen a few SMs with this setup but feels tight re space on the Maramu

All the very best

Miles
Maramu 162


Looks like we are heading off as





--

Aras Grinius


Re: Possible damage from transport ships stacks. Has anyone experienced?

Doug Smith
 

Porter,
We just unloaded from a transatlantic shipment, Palma to Ft Lauderdale, and left the main and mizzen in place. All other canvas removed, and no real issues besides the salt, and general dust from sitting on a transport ship. And of course the recent Saharan dust storm that crossed the atlantic with it. And of course the locusts and plague...2020...

Doug Smith
S/V Aventura, Amel 54-113
Deltaville, VA USA

On 7/14/20, 12:03 AM, "Porter McRoberts via groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io on behalf of portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Ladies and Gents.

A quick question if you would. We’re in the midst of shipping our Amel out of NZ with Sevenstar. Incidentally the delivery skipper encountered the marina manager who relayed multiple horror stories of transport ship’s smokestack ash and embers causing severe burns to sails, canvas sailboat decks etc. Needless to say I was taken aback. This was never discussed in our pregame !!!
Has anyone else encountered such issues?

I’d really appreciate any input.

Many thanks.

Porter

A54-152.




Excuse the errors.
Sent from my IPhone
Www.fouribis.net


Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

Porter McRoberts
 

Could a Moly bolt, drywall bolt be helpful in removing the non-threaded impellers?
We've had 2 engines. The first impeller location (volvo d3-c) was a bear to deal with.  The second, a bit better (D3-H).  Always looking for solutions to ease the job.  

Porter
A54-152




On Jul 19, 2020, at 10:53 AM, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai@...> wrote:

Eric, Mark, and Bill,
Thanks for all the great suggestions. I am going to take all of them and keep the boat.

Mark, I have the impeller removal tool, but the last mechanic put it in backwards...Grrrr.

Thanks again,
Kent

On Jul 18, 2020 8:58 PM, "karkauai via groups.io" <karkauai@...> wrote:
I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE.  The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it.  I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.

Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.

Kent
SM243
Kristy



Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

karkauai
 

Eric, Mark, and Bill,
Thanks for all the great suggestions. I am going to take all of them and keep the boat.

Mark, I have the impeller removal tool, but the last mechanic put it in backwards...Grrrr.

Thanks again,
Kent

On Jul 18, 2020 8:58 PM, "karkauai via groups.io" <karkauai@...> wrote:
I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE.  The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it.  I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.

Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.

Kent
SM243
Kristy


Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

 

image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 2:04 AM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
Mark,
The thumbscrews are for the cover plate for the water pump.
They are a lot easier to hold and install.
Eric

On July 19, 2020 at 12:42 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Very cool! Thanks!

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: eric [mailto:kimberlite@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 6:20 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io; Mark Erdos
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

 

Try using these using these thumb screws. They are so much easier then the ones supplied with the pump.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376

https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/system-of-measurement~metric/thumb-screws/metric-stainless-steel-raised-knurled-head-thumb-screws/


On July 19, 2020 at 12:13 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi Kent,

 

I do mine by brail.

 

Are you using threaded impellers? These make a huge difference:

 

 

129671-92110 YANMAR IMPELLER BOLT

The above tool is used for installation and removal.

 

I have a little tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool.

 

Being left handed is an advantage.

 

When installing the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the blades. It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the engine and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working.  

 

I leave a blue shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine is running to check for any leaks.

 

Before I started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything).

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 2:58 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

 

I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE.  The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it.  I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.

Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.

Kent
SM243
Kristy


 


 


 

 


Re: Chest freezer on keel cooling not keeping up so much

Craig Briggs
 

Billy, 
Your keel cooler is definitely going to perform in warmer water - actually it will be more efficient than in cold water (see my recent post on that subject).  So 27º C is fine for cooling water and probably is not much different than your cabin air temp. Per that recent post of mine, refrigerant coming out of your compressor as a high pressure gas condenses at ~ 50ºC. A much lower cooling water temp (say < 20º C ) is actually inefficient.
Have you checked the refrigerant temps on the high and low sides of both systems for comparison and your keel cooler in and out temps? That might give you a clue, but the ambient water temperature is definitely not the problem.
Good luck with it.
Craig


Re: Ballooner price

 

QSails.com 1.642,00 € in red/white/blue triradial, just like the original.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 7:08 AM Leopold Hauer via groups.io <leopold.hauer=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Can anyone tell me which  is the usual price for a SM ballooner?  (tri-radial cut and parallel cut)

Leo 
SM 69
Yin Yang in Fiji (I am in Austria)


Re: Lubrication of the Mechanism That Drives The Main Sail Furling Unit

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Kent,
The "dust cover" is not a lip seal, it's a "V" dirt seal - NAK V-045 50-40-4.5.

The lip seals are: top: 58 46 7; bottom: 33 25 6

Also, I think that assembly just wants grease, not gear oil, like your winches.
Craig


Re: SM 1990 drive unit seals

John Clark
 

My friend here in St Thomas has SM #24. He also has the aluminum drive.   Didier in Martinique rebuilt his drive a couple of years ago.  I will forward this to him and see if he has any insight.

Regards,  John

SV Annie SM 37
St Thomas USVI

On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 11:31 AM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
I did not understand your original email.

Apparently, you have the original aluminum C-Drive. I have never seen one of these. Someone told me that Amel replaced these. I do not know if that replacement story is accurate or not.

I do not believe that I can help you.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 10:11 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:
I’m sending the plans Maud sent me. It’s not exactly like any of them.
We’ve measured the difference between the aluminum and the fibreglass and it’s 3mm, but again there is nothing to hold an O-ring in place.

Many thanks,
Helen and Kostas Meditation SM 29 in 1990


On 17 Jul 2020, at 6:04 PM, Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi via groups.io <helenmi57=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the prompt reply!
Unfortunately ours is different and doesn’t have the O rings , or any likely place to put one. I’m sending you photos to see what ours is like. On looking at the plans Amel sent us our set up is not exactly those either. We have bolts to fix it in place which are inserted from under the fibreglass part, shown in one of the photos. 
It might be possible to put an O-Ring around the aluminum part which inserts slightly into the fibreglass, only there is nothing there to hold it in place, any ideas will be very much appreciated!!
Thanks again 
Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990

<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>


On 17 Jul 2020, at 4:54 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


The drawing shows 2 each "Joint Toriques" which is an O-Ring. Follow this link.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 8:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:

We are having trouble with the seal between the transmission and the rest of the drive unit after having it serviced. The oil leaked out between the transmission box and the fibreglass part of the drive unit. The machine shop had used a paper gasket and some sort of red sealant. We are on anchor so are trying to do it ourselves.
We took it apart and resealed it , it leaked again after about 4 hrs motoring. We had used a high Temperature RTV gasket maker but no paper gasket because we thought that that was the way it was originally.
We have the plans from Amel, but it is not clear if there should be a paper gasket.
Should we try to find card to cut a gasket or try again with the RTV gasket maker? The fibreglass part is not in a very good condition.

Helen and Kostas on Meditation SM 29 of 1990


Ballooner price

Leopold Hauer
 

Can anyone tell me which  is the usual price for a SM ballooner?  (tri-radial cut and parallel cut)

Leo 
SM 69
Yin Yang in Fiji (I am in Austria)


Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

eric freedman
 

Mark,
The thumbscrews are for the cover plate for the water pump.
They are a lot easier to hold and install.
Eric

On July 19, 2020 at 12:42 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Very cool! Thanks!

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: eric [mailto:kimberlite@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 6:20 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io; Mark Erdos
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

 

Try using these using these thumb screws. They are so much easier then the ones supplied with the pump.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376

https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/system-of-measurement~metric/thumb-screws/metric-stainless-steel-raised-knurled-head-thumb-screws/


On July 19, 2020 at 12:13 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi Kent,

 

I do mine by brail.

 

Are you using threaded impellers? These make a huge difference:

 

 

129671-92110 YANMAR IMPELLER BOLT

The above tool is used for installation and removal.

 

I have a little tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool.

 

Being left handed is an advantage.

 

When installing the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the blades. It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the engine and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working.  

 

I leave a blue shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine is running to check for any leaks.

 

Before I started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything).

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 2:58 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

 

I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE.  The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it.  I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.

Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.

Kent
SM243
Kristy


 


 


 

 


Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

Mark Erdos
 

Very cool! Thanks!

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: eric [mailto:kimberlite@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 6:20 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io; Mark Erdos
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

 

Try using these using these thumb screws. They are so much easier then the ones supplied with the pump.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376

https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/system-of-measurement~metric/thumb-screws/metric-stainless-steel-raised-knurled-head-thumb-screws/


On July 19, 2020 at 12:13 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi Kent,

 

I do mine by brail.

 

Are you using threaded impellers? These make a huge difference:

 

 

129671-92110 YANMAR IMPELLER BOLT

The above tool is used for installation and removal.

 

I have a little tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool.

 

Being left handed is an advantage.

 

When installing the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the blades. It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the engine and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working.  

 

I leave a blue shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine is running to check for any leaks.

 

Before I started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything).

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 2:58 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

 

I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE.  The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it.  I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.

Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.

Kent
SM243
Kristy


 


 


Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

eric freedman
 

Try using these using these thumb screws. They are so much easier then the ones supplied with the pump.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376

https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/system-of-measurement~metric/thumb-screws/metric-stainless-steel-raised-knurled-head-thumb-screws/

On July 19, 2020 at 12:13 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi Kent,

 

I do mine by brail.

 

Are you using threaded impellers? These make a huge difference:

 

 

129671-92110 YANMAR IMPELLER BOLT

The above tool is used for installation and removal.

 

I have a little tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool.

 

Being left handed is an advantage.

 

When installing the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the blades. It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the engine and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working.  

 

I leave a blue shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine is running to check for any leaks.

 

Before I started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything).

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 2:58 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

 

I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE.  The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it.  I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.

Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.

Kent
SM243
Kristy


 

 


Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

eric freedman
 


On July 19, 2020 at 12:13 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Hi Kent,

 

I do mine by brail.

 

Are you using threaded impellers? These make a huge difference:

 

 

129671-92110 YANMAR IMPELLER BOLT

The above tool is used for installation and removal.

 

I have a little tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool.

 

Being left handed is an advantage.

 

When installing the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the blades. It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the engine and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working.  

 

I leave a blue shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine is running to check for any leaks.

 

Before I started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything).

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 2:58 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

 

I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE.  The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it.  I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.

Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.

Kent
SM243
Kristy

 



 


 


Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Kent,

 

I do mine by brail.

 

Are you using threaded impellers? These make a huge difference:

 

 

129671-92110 YANMAR IMPELLER BOLT

The above tool is used for installation and removal.

 

I have a little tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool.

 

Being left handed is an advantage.

 

When installing the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the blades. It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the engine and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working.  

 

I leave a blue shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine is running to check for any leaks.

 

Before I started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything).

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 2:58 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

 

I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE.  The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it.  I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.

Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.

Kent
SM243
Kristy


Upside down intercooler by Amel

eric freedman
 

These are the best photos I have- the one with the shaft alternator is not mine.

Fair Winds,

Eric


Re: 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access

eric freedman
 

Had you seen the solution Amel came up for that problem?
they flipped over the intercooler upside down and made a bracket to hold it up aft of the engine.
I will try to send a photo.
Eric Sm 376 Kimberlite

On July 18, 2020 at 8:58 PM "karkauai via groups.io" <karkauai@...> wrote:

I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE.  The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it.  I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.

Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.

Kent
SM243
Kristy