Date   
Frigoboat Installation

Steve Bode
 

Does anyone have pictures of how the original Frigoboat fridge was installed in a circa 1994 Super Maramu? The original fridge was removed from my boat before I bought it and a home fridge (220v) was inserted.  I have purchased a new Frigoboat MS160 cabinet and a Capri 50F to replace it. I thought the compressor was originally mounted beneath the fridge cabinet, something like the pictures in Alexandre’s SM2000 “Nikimat” http://nikimat.com/fridge_removal.html,  but it doesn’t look like it (see my pictures). Any help from someone’s who’s done this would be SO appreciated!

Steve Bode
SV Intention, Amel SM117
Puerto Ginesta, Spain
facebook: stevebodesanfrancisco
+1 415-710-6659


Sea water pump

Peter Forbes
 

I feel such a fool! It must be the sun that has got to me - I asked about water pumps and mistakenly in my post asked about fresh water pumps - many people including Bill replied very kindly -


What I meant was the sea water pump for the fridges which seems to draw only 1 amp the only replacements I can find draw about 3-5 amps - I have asked Maud at Amel and she has none. Any ideas the pump is 12v draws 1 amp amp pumps 6 litres of salt water per minute. Does anyone know if the associated circuitry including the frigoboat distribution box can take 3 amps - I guess not as got has a 2 amp fuse?

Peter


Peter Forbes
Amel 54#035 Carango
Azores en route to La Rochelle
00447836 209730

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Membrane replacement on bilge pump.

Peter Forbes
 

Craig,

I have changed mine several times - use both membranes. Be very careful not to drop parts down sump - I block sump opening with a sheet in case!

Good luck

Peter
Carango
Amel 54#035
Azores

Peter Forbes
00447836 209730

On 17 May 2018, at 02:20, Bob Grey renaissanceiii@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi craig, as a last resort, I looked in the equipment manuals supplied with the boat, and there is an exploded diagram showing the 2 diaphragms in the assembly so question answered. Use both, the one under the white paper goes on the air side.


Maude was super helpful and had the part in stock to replenish my spares cabinet. Hopefully will last another 5 years.

Bob Grey
Renaissance 3


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Thursday, May 17, 2018, 08:32, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Bob,

Just one, as I recall.  It'll become clear, of course, when you open up the pump. Wear gloves - yucchy job !
Cheers,
Craig SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Hi guys, I have a Reya Marine ZZ bilge pump that started leaking, caused by a torn membrane, luckily had a maintenance kit in my spares box, there were two separate membranes in the kit along with a big o ring and 2 valves.

The question I ask is do you use one or both membranes in the repair? They seem identical.

I couldn’t find any online reference guide or pump exploded view to answer what is probably an obvious answer “ use both “ but as I’m sure there are many Amel owners who have repaired their pump and know the answer.


Bob Grey
Amel 55 #25

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Membrane replacement on bilge pump.

Bob Grey
 

Hi craig, as a last resort, I looked in the equipment manuals supplied with the boat, and there is an exploded diagram showing the 2 diaphragms in the assembly so question answered. Use both, the one under the white paper goes on the air side.

Maude was super helpful and had the part in stock to replenish my spares cabinet. Hopefully will last another 5 years.

Bob Grey

On Thursday, May 17, 2018, 08:32, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Hi Bob,

Just one, as I recall.  It'll become clear, of course, when you open up the pump. Wear gloves - yucchy job !
Cheers,
Craig SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <renaissanceiii@...> wrote :

Hi guys, I have a Reya Marine ZZ bilge pump that started leaking, caused by a torn membrane, luckily had a maintenance kit in my spares box, there were two separate membranes in the kit along with a big o ring and 2 valves.

The question I ask is do you use one or both membranes in the repair? They seem identical.

I couldn’t find any online reference guide or pump exploded view to answer what is probably an obvious answer “ use both “ but as I’m sure there are many Amel owners who have repaired their pump and know the answer.


Bob Grey
Amel 55 #25

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Travel on the US East Coast

eric freedman
 

Hi,

If you plan on coming down Long Island sound, please drop by.

The huntington Yacht club is a very nice place with guest moorings, showers, restaurant .

It is a very sheltered harbor and has all the marine chandleries and repairmen you will need.

 

Huntington is included in the Gold Coast referred to in the Great Gatsby, we also have the second largest home in N. America..

Huntington has many restaurants of all cuisines, and is a 1 hour train ride from Manhattan.

 

If you would like to visit , just drop me a note.

Fair Winds

Eric Freedman

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2018 8:17 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Travel on the US East Coast

 

 

We are in the process of planning a trip north from Ft. Lauderdale, Florida toward Maryland and possibly New Hampshire this summer.  We would be interested in learning of your favorite anchorages, marinas, or stops along the way.  Kent on Kristy has provided some good information, anything you could provide from a tidbit of information to a trip plan would be appreciated.

 

We look forward to hearing from you and thank you for sharing your past experiences and knowledge.

 

Mark & Debbie Mueller

Brass Ring  A54-68

Ft. Lauderdale

 

Re: Membrane replacement on bilge pump.

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 

Hi Bob,
Just one, as I recall.  It'll become clear, of course, when you open up the pump. Wear gloves - yucchy job !
Cheers,
Craig SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <renaissanceiii@...> wrote :

Hi guys, I have a Reya Marine ZZ bilge pump that started leaking, caused by a torn membrane, luckily had a maintenance kit in my spares box, there were two separate membranes in the kit along with a big o ring and 2 valves.

The question I ask is do you use one or both membranes in the repair? They seem identical.

I couldn’t find any online reference guide or pump exploded view to answer what is probably an obvious answer “ use both “ but as I’m sure there are many Amel owners who have repaired their pump and know the answer.


Bob Grey
Amel 55 #25

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: rig tuning

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 

Hi Steve,
Yep, that's the booklet. Check out the "Folding Rule Method" of tensioning.
Sounds reasonable that the existing rig is loose due to stretch. That makes it pretty easy to tension back up - just count the turns you take on starboard and do the same number on port, assuming the mast is in column to begin with.
Craig SN68 Sangaris, Ft Pierce FL


---In amelyachtowners@..., <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote :

Steve, thanks for the data, that's very helpful.

Craig, thank you also for your advice.  That's a great rule of thumb.  I have The Complete Rigger's Apprentice, which discusses rig tuning a bit, but not as much as I'd hoped before I bought it.  I will definitely read the booklet you mentioned (which is perhaps this free PDF?).

I suspect the slight looseness in my rig is because the wire has stretched over time.  It was quite tight when I bought the boat, and I think the boat hadn't been sailed much by the previous owner after he replaced the standing rigging.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Wed, May 16, 2018 at 12:40 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Ryan,

I'd recommend Selden Mast's booklet Hints and Advice on Rig Tuning - you can download the pdf. They give a neat "folding rule" method (pg 32) of determining tension based on the fact that 2 meters of any diameter of 1X19 wire stretches 1mm for each 5% of breaking strength applied.

So, for example, if you want to tension your 12mm cap stays to 20% (Amel tight, maybe!) just tighten them until 2 meters stretches by 4 mm. That stretch will give you about 5600 pounds of tension, as the breaking strength is about 28000.

The Loos gauge doesn't handle wire over 10mm (actually 9.5 mm as it's rated for 3/8) and only goes up to 4500 pounds. That's why the results Nance and Underwood gave Steve Morrison in his post just show "very tight" for his 12mm stays.

After you get a sense for "very tight" you'll get to trust just feeling the stays and being able to judge if they're right. And use Joel's suggestion to go out, sail upwind in a good breeze and see if your lee shrouds are at all slack. If yes, they're way too loose. Oh yeah, and recheck after a while as the wire will stretch over time.

On the headstay there is a turnbuckle screw under the furler. ACMO just calls it "special" , as it's shorter than standard ones so the furler can be closer to the deck.

Have fun tuning!
Craig Briggs SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com, <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote :


Hi all,

I'm about to embark upon tuning up my rig, which I feel is a little loose, but I'd love some guidance on how to do that.  I've scoured the archives of this list and found many mentions of guides from both Joel Potter and Olivier Beaute, but I haven't been able to find them.  The best guide I've found thus far is this one.   Can anyone link me to the gold standard(s)?

Also, has anyone done the tuning in a more scientific way, with a Loos Gauge?  I'm struggling to understand via qualitative descriptions just how tight is tight.  I think a quantitative measurement would be very helpful.

And finally, how does one adjust the forestay tension?  I admittedly have not studied it in depth, but I didn't see a turnbuckle or any other obvious mechanism.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


Membrane replacement on bilge pump.

Bob Grey
 

Hi guys, I have a Reya Marine ZZ bilge pump that started leaking, caused by a torn membrane, luckily had a maintenance kit in my spares box, there were two separate membranes in the kit along with a big o ring and 2 valves.

The question I ask is do you use one or both membranes in the repair? They seem identical.

I couldn’t find any online reference guide or pump exploded view to answer what is probably an obvious answer “ use both “ but as I’m sure there are many Amel owners who have repaired their pump and know the answer.


Bob Grey
Amel 55 #25

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replacement Head/Shower Faucets for SM

Ryan Meador
 

Hi Dan,

I have not replaced my faucets, but I did do some related plumbing when I added a drinking water filter (my one and only violation of the "wait one year" rule).  My galley faucet, and I believe all the other taps/mixers, use 3/8" BSPT threads.  I was able to source adapters to 3/8" NPT (the standard in the US) from McMaster-Carr.  I hope that's helpful.

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 6:05 PM, danb.taylor@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Greetings all, I am a first time poster and proud Amel Owner. 


First off, I want to thank publicly Joel Potter and Bill Rouse. They went the extra effort in answering and guiding me through the section and buying process.  


Secondly, I have contacted numerous Amel owners that Joel and Bill have introduced, the feedback and information has reinforced my decision that Amel owners take care of their own. Thank you all for your support as I become familiar with my Amel.


Finally, I would like to replace the head faucets and handles.  Has anyone performed this and if so, what make/model/size did you use?


Thanks,

Dan

SV FlyGirl 

San Diego, CA

SM 116




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: rig tuning

Ryan Meador
 

Steve, thanks for the data, that's very helpful.

Craig, thank you also for your advice.  That's a great rule of thumb.  I have The Complete Rigger's Apprentice, which discusses rig tuning a bit, but not as much as I'd hoped before I bought it.  I will definitely read the booklet you mentioned (which is perhaps this free PDF?).

I suspect the slight looseness in my rig is because the wire has stretched over time.  It was quite tight when I bought the boat, and I think the boat hadn't been sailed much by the previous owner after he replaced the standing rigging.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Wed, May 16, 2018 at 12:40 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Ryan,

I'd recommend Selden Mast's booklet Hints and Advice on Rig Tuning - you can download the pdf. They give a neat "folding rule" method (pg 32) of determining tension based on the fact that 2 meters of any diameter of 1X19 wire stretches 1mm for each 5% of breaking strength applied.

So, for example, if you want to tension your 12mm cap stays to 20% (Amel tight, maybe!) just tighten them until 2 meters stretches by 4 mm. That stretch will give you about 5600 pounds of tension, as the breaking strength is about 28000.

The Loos gauge doesn't handle wire over 10mm (actually 9.5 mm as it's rated for 3/8) and only goes up to 4500 pounds. That's why the results Nance and Underwood gave Steve Morrison in his post just show "very tight" for his 12mm stays.

After you get a sense for "very tight" you'll get to trust just feeling the stays and being able to judge if they're right. And use Joel's suggestion to go out, sail upwind in a good breeze and see if your lee shrouds are at all slack. If yes, they're way too loose. Oh yeah, and recheck after a while as the wire will stretch over time.

On the headstay there is a turnbuckle screw under the furler. ACMO just calls it "special" , as it's shorter than standard ones so the furler can be closer to the deck.

Have fun tuning!
Craig Briggs SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, wrote :


Hi all,

I'm about to embark upon tuning up my rig, which I feel is a little loose, but I'd love some guidance on how to do that.  I've scoured the archives of this list and found many mentions of guides from both Joel Potter and Olivier Beaute, but I haven't been able to find them.  The best guide I've found thus far is this one.   Can anyone link me to the gold standard(s)?

Also, has anyone done the tuning in a more scientific way, with a Loos Gauge?  I'm struggling to understand via qualitative descriptions just how tight is tight.  I think a quantitative measurement would be very helpful.

And finally, how does one adjust the forestay tension?  I admittedly have not studied it in depth, but I didn't see a turnbuckle or any other obvious mechanism.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


Re: rig tuning

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 

Hi Ryan,

I'd recommend Selden Mast's booklet Hints and Advice on Rig Tuning - you can download the pdf. They give a neat "folding rule" method (pg 32) of determining tension based on the fact that 2 meters of any diameter of 1X19 wire stretches 1mm for each 5% of breaking strength applied.

So, for example, if you want to tension your 12mm cap stays to 20% (Amel tight, maybe!) just tighten them until 2 meters stretches by 4 mm. That stretch will give you about 5600 pounds of tension, as the breaking strength is about 28000.

The Loos gauge doesn't handle wire over 10mm (actually 9.5 mm as it's rated for 3/8) and only goes up to 4500 pounds. That's why the results Nance and Underwood gave Steve Morrison in his post just show "very tight" for his 12mm stays.

After you get a sense for "very tight" you'll get to trust just feeling the stays and being able to judge if they're right. And use Joel's suggestion to go out, sail upwind in a good breeze and see if your lee shrouds are at all slack. If yes, they're way too loose. Oh yeah, and recheck after a while as the wire will stretch over time.

On the headstay there is a turnbuckle screw under the furler. ACMO just calls it "special" , as it's shorter than standard ones so the furler can be closer to the deck.

Have fun tuning!
Craig Briggs SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote :

Hi all,

I'm about to embark upon tuning up my rig, which I feel is a little loose, but I'd love some guidance on how to do that.  I've scoured the archives of this list and found many mentions of guides from both Joel Potter and Olivier Beaute, but I haven't been able to find them.  The best guide I've found thus far is this one.   Can anyone link me to the gold standard(s)?

Also, has anyone done the tuning in a more scientific way, with a Loos Gauge?  I'm struggling to understand via qualitative descriptions just how tight is tight.  I think a quantitative measurement would be very helpful.

And finally, how does one adjust the forestay tension?  I admittedly have not studied it in depth, but I didn't see a turnbuckle or any other obvious mechanism.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

Re: Raising the waterline aft on SM

Miles
 

Hi Gary,

 

When I was at the factory, I  also asked Jean-Jacque about the water line.  As best as I can recall, he said that it looked better and that the boat would not get an ugly yellow mustache if it motored though dirty water. 

 

Regards,

Miles

s/y Ladybug, sm216. Le Marin, Martinique

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rig tuning

Stephen Morrison <steve_morrison@...>
 

I had Nance and Underwood (Ft. Lauderdale) replace my rig the winter and this is a photo of the guide they followed for tensioning my SM380



Steve Morrison
SM380 TouRai
Hilton Head, SC

On May 16, 2018, at 10:15 AM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi all,

I'm about to embark upon tuning up my rig, which I feel is a little loose, but I'd love some guidance on how to do that.  I've scoured the archives of this list and found many mentions of guides from both Joel Potter and Olivier Beaute, but I haven't been able to find them.  The best guide I've found thus far is this one.   Can anyone link me to the gold standard(s)?

Also, has anyone done the tuning in a more scientific way, with a Loos Gauge?  I'm struggling to understand via qualitative descriptions just how tight is tight.  I think a quantitative measurement would be very helpful.

And finally, how does one adjust the forestay tension?  I admittedly have not studied it in depth, but I didn't see a turnbuckle or any other obvious mechanism.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

rig tuning

Ryan Meador
 

Hi all,

I'm about to embark upon tuning up my rig, which I feel is a little loose, but I'd love some guidance on how to do that.  I've scoured the archives of this list and found many mentions of guides from both Joel Potter and Olivier Beaute, but I haven't been able to find them.  The best guide I've found thus far is this one.   Can anyone link me to the gold standard(s)?

Also, has anyone done the tuning in a more scientific way, with a Loos Gauge?  I'm struggling to understand via qualitative descriptions just how tight is tight.  I think a quantitative measurement would be very helpful.

And finally, how does one adjust the forestay tension?  I admittedly have not studied it in depth, but I didn't see a turnbuckle or any other obvious mechanism.

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Propshaft wearing ring

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 

Kent,
Yep, as I said in my post I did try the Speedi Sleeves. Wasn't happy that you have to use two to get the width you need, so you're left with bit of a burr when you remove the lip of the 2nd sleeve that seemed it could snag the lip seals as you slide them in. They did not wear out, though, like the WOB, just faint surface lines that passed the "fingernail test".
No problem with the 17-4 recommended by the SKF engineer. It's corrosion resistant and can he hardened up to Rc 40. 316 is only about 20 Rc.
Craig



---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

The Speedi-Sleeves, Craig.
I also wonder if the 17-4 SS would corrode over a 2-3 year time period.  

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM243

Tried which, Kent? The SpeediSleeves or the 17-4 stainless WOB?
Craig

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raising the waterline aft on SM

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Gary,


 We raised the water line significantly when we applied Coppercoat eight years ago. We took the Coppercoat to the top of the orange stripe, left an inch or so above that and then added a new stripe.

  Only if this was pointed out to you would you notice the difference. If anything, it makes the hull look sleeker.

 Never again have we had to swim around the aft section to constantly clean and it reduces the area of hull to polish.

 We have made few changes to our Amel but in our book this  ( alongside the Coppercoat) is up there with the best.


 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Piraeus


From: amelyachtowners@... on behalf of 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]
Sent: 16 May 2018 12:11:11
To: amelyachtowners@...; William Maffei
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raising the waterline aft on SM
 


Gary,

I think that you are on the "right track," although 6" seems a little much to me. 

FYI, I saw a SM currently owned by Bill Maffei when prior to his ownership, the orange stripe was raised to a point where the bottom of the stripe location was on the line where the top had been. A 25mm gelcoat white stripe was applied under the new orange stripe. Maybe Bill will comment.

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, May 16, 2018 at 12:50 AM, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Hello all:


As the hull repairs progress on our hull #335 SM from the Hurricane Maria/Irma damage, the idea of raising the waterline aft is being considered.  


Every Amel I have ever seen, regardless of model, does not set level on their lines ( waterline level with the water).  They  all have the waterline higher, by a significant amount, forward.  I noted this when I toured the factory when our boat was being built (looking at the waterline on the boats in the test tank at Chantiers Amel) and asked Jean-Jacque Lemonier (the CEO of Amel at the time) about it.  He replied that it was just because the rigging wasn't in place and assured me that it would be level once the rigging was in place.  Either we mis-communicated or every Amel ever built was intentionally made with the waterline higher forward.  


My aft anti-fouling isn't high enough to be effect, especially under the overhang of the transom and I am always scrubbing soft growth off that area as well as the bootstirpe for about 10 ft forward.  


Bill Rouse raised his waterline slightly along the entire length of the boat by eliminating the white stripe below the original bootstripe.  What I am proposing is leaving the bootstripe where it is forward and raising it 6 inches aft with a continuous level-line between.  It would still be higher forward than aft, but less of a gradient than the original.


I am seeking info from anyone with inside knowledge of why Amel made the boats like this and any experience with raising the waterline aft (both cosmetically and in solving the scrubbing problem). 


Thanks, 


Gary S. Silver, original an d only owner

Amel SM 2000 #335

s/v Liahona

At Island Marine, Inc. yard at Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico






--



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Propshaft wearing ring

karkauai
 

The Speedi-Sleeves, Craig.
I also wonder if the 17-4 SS would corrode over a 2-3 year time period.  

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM243

Tried which, Kent? The SpeediSleeves or the 17-4 stainless WOB?
Craig

Re: Raising the waterline aft on SM

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 

Hi Gary,
I did exactly what you're contemplating. It works very well. I got the aft section high enough but a little narrow, but if you duplicate the width of the stripe all around you should be fine. The new stripe(s) in the aft section are totally above the originals.  I went with a deep Burgundy Red, rather than the Amel orange, but whatever strikes your fancy. 
Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris, Ft Pierce, FL


---In amelyachtowners@..., <no_reply@...> wrote :

Hello all:


As the hull repairs progress on our hull #335 SM from the Hurricane Maria/Irma damage, the idea of raising the waterline aft is being considered.  


Every Amel I have ever seen, regardless of model, does not set level on their lines ( waterline level with the water).  They  all have the waterline higher, by a significant amount, forward.  I noted this when I toured the factory when our boat was being built (looking at the waterline on the boats in the test tank at Chantiers Amel) and asked Jean-Jacque Lemonier (the CEO of Amel at the time) about it.  He replied that it was just because the rigging wasn't in place and assured me that it would be level once the rigging was in place.  Either we mis-communicated or every Amel ever built was intentionally made with the waterline higher forward.  


My aft anti-fouling isn't high enough to be effect, especially under the overhang of the transom and I am always scrubbing soft growth off that area as well as the bootstirpe for about 10 ft forward.  


Bill Rouse raised his waterline slightly along the entire length of the boat by eliminating the white stripe below the original bootstripe.  What I am proposing is leaving the bootstripe where it is forward and raising it 6 inches aft with a continuous level-line between.  It would still be higher forward than aft, but less of a gradient than the original.


I am seeking info from anyone with inside knowledge of why Amel made the boats like this and any experience with raising the waterline aft (both cosmetically and in solving the scrubbing problem). 


Thanks, 


Gary S. Silver, original and only owner

Amel SM 2000 #335

s/v Liahona

At Island Marine, Inc. yard at Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raising the waterline aft on SM

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gary,

I think that you are on the "right track," although 6" seems a little much to me. 

FYI, I saw a SM currently owned by Bill Maffei when prior to his ownership, the orange stripe was raised to a point where the bottom of the stripe location was on the line where the top had been. A 25mm gelcoat white stripe was applied under the new orange stripe. Maybe Bill will comment.

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, May 16, 2018 at 12:50 AM, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Hello all:


As the hull repairs progress on our hull #335 SM from the Hurricane Maria/Irma damage, the idea of raising the waterline aft is being considered.  


Every Amel I have ever seen, regardless of model, does not set level on their lines ( waterline level with the water).  They  all have the waterline higher, by a significant amount, forward.  I noted this when I toured the factory when our boat was being built (looking at the waterline on the boats in the test tank at Chantiers Amel) and asked Jean-Jacque Lemonier (the CEO of Amel at the time) about it.  He replied that it was just because the rigging wasn't in place and assured me that it would be level once the rigging was in place.  Either we mis-communicated or every Amel ever built was intentionally made with the waterline higher forward.  


My aft anti-fouling isn't high enough to be effect, especially under the overhang of the transom and I am always scrubbing soft growth off that area as well as the bootstirpe for about 10 ft forward.  


Bill Rouse raised his waterline slightly along the entire length of the boat by eliminating the white stripe below the original bootstripe.  What I am proposing is leaving the bootstripe where it is forward and raising it 6 inches aft with a continuous level-line between.  It would still be higher forward than aft, but less of a gradient than the original.


I am seeking info from anyone with inside knowledge of why Amel made the boats like this and any experience with raising the waterline aft (both cosmetically and in solving the scrubbing problem). 


Thanks, 


Gary S. Silver, original an d only owner

Amel SM 2000 #335

s/v Liahona

At Island Marine, Inc. yard at Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico






--

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Propshaft wearing ring

Craig & Katherine Briggs
 

Tried which, Kent? The SpeediSleeves or the 17-4 stainless WOB?
Craig
---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :
Hmmm, have you tried it yet? Maybe not an ideal situation.
Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM 243

On May 15, 2018, at 3:36 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

Does anybody know the size of the Speedi-Sleeve needed for the WOB? I remember someone posted it but can’t find it now.
If 316 stainless isn’t hard enough, what material is recommended for a machined WOB or Speedi-Sleeve?

Thanks
Kent
-----------------------------------------
Hi Kent, 
I posted the recommendation of the SKF engineer last week - if you missed it I've copied it below. Bottom line, though was he recommended 17-4 stainless, not 316.

I found the Speedi-Sleeve problematic. They don't come long enough to cover 3 seals, so you have to install two of them, removing the flange on the second one. That leaves a bit of a burr that you have to slide the seals over. The size would be the same diameter as your lip seal.

Cheers, Craig
Original message copied below:
:Hi Jose, see my original post under your question below.  Bottom line from the SKF engineer, inner seal facing oil, two outer ones facing the water. Use MUCH harder metal for the bearing than Amel used.
Cheers, Craig, SN68 Sangaris, Ft. Pierce, FL
---In amelyachtowners@..., <jvenegas@...> wrote :
Thank you, Craig,
That makes sense.  What did the SFK expert tell you about the orientation of the seals?
Good winds
Jose
---In amelyachtowners@..., <sangaris@...> wrote :

As we've all experienced, the bronze "wearing-out bushing" (as Amel refers it) gets, well, worn out and grooved from the lip seals. Then water leaks into the oil and we see the tell-tale "chocolate milk" colored oil that says it's time to haul out and replace the seals (cheap) and the "wearing-out bushing" (typically dear in price if supplied by Amel.)
I've had two thoughts on this: switch to a harder bushing of stainless steel and/or try a new (to me) lip seal design by SKF called the Wave Seal. It has the lip in a sinusoidal pattern that spreads the wearing area on the bushing. (SKF is "the world leader in bearing technology.")
I ran this by SKF's engineering department who were most responsive. Here's what their take was on the issue:
"Craig, 
My educated guess is that the seals are not an issue in this application. The problem is with the Bronze bushing that is being used as a sealing surface. Bronze is generally quite soft and might not have the required hardness of Rockwell C 30 or higher. You have a few options to solve this issue:
• You can put SKF speedi-sleeve gold on the shaft (P/N 99830). You will probably have to install multiple sleeves as you have 3 seals next to each other.
• You can replace the bronze bushing with a hardened wear sleeve for better abrasion resistance. We can offer you a custom wear sleeve if needed.
• You can plate your bushing with a harder material (Chrome, ceramic, etc) to make it wear resistant.
Essentially, the harder the shaft is, the less grooving it will see. I also suggest you to make sure that you grease pack the area between the seals to make sure that the seals not in contact with the oil are well lubricated. A lack of lubrication can cause the seal and surface to wear quicker. Finally I would arrange the seals with 2 facing the water and one facing the oil as long as there is no pressure difference. 
Best regards, Jaydeep Laljani, Application Engineer, SKF USA

I wrote back and said:
"Many thanks for your analysis. Frankly, I have wondered why the manufacturer used Bronze in the first place and not stainless - they actually call it a "wearing-out bushing" (but then they do charge a lot for replacements :-). 
Next month I'm returning to the boat, which is in Turkey, and I can easily have a local shop turn a new bushing in 316 Stainless (the same material as the shaft and propeller, so no electrolysis issues.) I think that would solve the problem without going to sleeves or plating. 
As for the orientation of the seals, I like your suggestion of two facing the water and will do that the next time I change the seals. After all, we're really trying to keep the water out more than keeping the oil in. And, yes, indeed, I always pack the seals with a good water-proof grease and that helps, I'm sure. "

Jaydeep replied with:
"I think you might not get as much life as you want with 316 SS as it is still not up to the required hardness. If you want to go Stainless I recommend 17-4 Stainless steel which is harder. If you are going with the 316 SS I would recommend you to passivate it to improve corrosion resistance. "

So that's the story which I thought might be of interest to the group. I hauled last year and only haul every three years, plus the new seals I put on then only have 300 hours and are not yet leaking so I'll report back in 2015 when I haul again and install a new 17-4 Stainless Steel "Not Wearing-Out Bushing" with two seals facing out!

Cheers, Craig Briggs
s/v SANGARIS, 1992 Santorin #68, Didim Turkey

PS; Update in 2018; never did get around to the 17-4 SS bearing, but used SKF speedie sleeves with inconclusive results; Next tried centrifugal rebabitting of the WOB; again, not much difference. Just last week installed a new Amel bronze bearing, "by-the-book" with two seals toward oil and one toward water. We'll see.