Date   
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvos.......

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Thanks, Bill,


 Alas....in neutral the revs do what they oughta do.


I will have to risk  trying the local Volvo agent.


Incidentally, to anyone who has had Volvo work done near Athens, does Mantalas Kyriakos have a decent reputation ?      Anyone else ?


Ian


Pen Azen, SM 302, Athens, Greece


From: amelyachtowners@... on behalf of greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
Sent: 26 April 2018 19:52:36
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvos.......
 


Ian,

Will the engine run at 2800 rpm unloaded (in netural)?

If NOT, the answer is not fuel starvation (because that would take very little fuel) but a possible problem with the injection pump or speed governor.

If YES, then...  I am not sure...

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Somewhere around Eleuthera, Bahamas


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Strange 24DC leakage

 

Thomas,

Good Job!

I don't have an answer to your question, but the 54 bow thruster (as well as the SM) receives 24VDC from 2 sources:
  1. The control 24VDC source which originates at the helm
  2. The "run" 24VDC source which is direct to the bank
I believe there is a "resting" connection at relay #4 on the 54 between the "run" 24VDC source and the control 24VDC source. By "resting," I mean without any activation of any control switch.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970





On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 9:31 PM, 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 


Hi everyone,

So we traced the leak back to the bow thruster.   Not sure yet what is wong with it. Chances are some carbon dust from the brushes creates the negative-grounding connection. 

We built another leak detector with a LED bulb and 2 wires to second the amel detector. We plug one end on the grounding and the other end to the positive of the 24V battery bank. A leak on the negative circuit would light the bulb. We found it's more sensitive than our amel built detector and would show a dim light even when the amel detector wouldn't light (to the naked eye). That may show our amel detector isn't 100% working order. I'll troubleshoot that next. 

One aspect of the issue we are still a bit confused about: 
Despite disconnecting the big cable that connects the battery bank to the front locker where the bow thruster (and others components like the windlass, etc) are, we would still see a strong leak. We had to disconnect another cable that goes in the engine room to remove the leak altogether. There we thought we had 2 sources of strong leaks.... 
We failed to trace the ER leak (while forelocker cable disconnected from the battery bank's end), so we concentrated on the forelocker one (while ER cable disconnected). When we eventually disconnected the bow thruster from its end and reconnected everything else from their end in the forelocker, we could see only a very dim leak (and undetected by the amel detector). We then reconnected the ER cable, expecting to see and diagnose the second strong leak, but it was gone... 

So is it possible that the ER cable was showing the bow thruster leak despite the main forelocker cable being disconnected? 

If yes (and it seems to be the case) then the methodology of disconnecting all-but-one cable from the batteries is somewhat flawed... The ER cable lead was a going roundabout.  

On a positive note, we now have a better handle on the cable soup (tidy, but opaque) in the ER. Bring on the labelling machine!

TBC


Fair winds,

Thomas 
GARULFO 
Amel 54 #122
Saint Martin, FWI


On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 at 14:24, rossidesigngroup@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

We  had the same.  Comes and goes.  Eventually we discovered it was dependent on another boat near us--  it would happen when the other boat docked andhooked up to shore power, then disappear when it left.  Months later, in another location it happened again.  I have had the feeling we were ending up detecting a leak in a nearby boat (boats at most marinas share the same ground, even use your zincs if they don't have them).  I have no idea how this is possible, maybe some of you with more electrical knowlege do!  We also have a galvanic isolator with detection as well and no correlation with its indicators.  The only time our galvanic isolator showed a leak was in a questionable marina in Greece.  Tests with a volt meter showed the galvanic isolator was solving the problem even though indicating a fault.  The Amel indicator showed no fault. BTW the addition of a galvanic isolator slowed our rudder zinc loss to near zero.  


Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI SM 429 In the water in Malta

PS Adm Bill--should I post my Amel WOB results?


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raymarine AIS not working on Furuno Chart Plotter?

Barry Connor
 

Hi Ruedi,

I have just completed the update from the originally fitted Furuno NMEA-0183 to NMEA-2000.
I did this in 2 stages. 
I stayed with mostly Furuno as I discovered that trying to mix created problems that bits were not talking to each other.
The AIS was supplied from Digital Yacht on recommendation from Furuno with the 12” Furuno EZ Touch display at the helm. The original depth and wind was converted from 0183 to 2000 by using an Actisense converter as the Furuno converter would not talk to the B&G Hydra. 2 new Furuno displays in place of the B&G displays on the dash panel.
I stayed was using the old Furuno Chart Plotter display for radar only.
I just completed the change over to the new Furuno digital radar and new depth and wind for NMEA 2000.
I now have complete digital and full NMEA-2000.
I took out all of the originally fitted B&G and Furuno and sold it to the owner of an ex charter boat, who did not want to over capitalize his boat investment. He took all of the wiring and cabling. I sold the Actisense converter on Ebay for £45.
I had a little bit of trial and error, Furuno and their seller (Cactus) were very helpful with advise on connecting and exchanging bits. B&G also helped with phone advise during the change over. 
What I found out was that you must be carful when mixing manufacturers bits.
I did all the change over myself with phone help from tech people at Furuno, B&G, Digital Yacht and Cactus.
I also installed a Digital Yacht PC with TV monitor at the chart table connected to the EZ Touch via HDMI cable.
I never felt that I was a bother to any of these suppliers even though I was phoning them a lot.
I did speak to Raymarine before I started this project but decided to stay with Furuno and who they recommended. Raymarine did not instill confidence in me to go with them, Furuno did.
Hope this is of some help and good luck with you upgrade.
I am very happy with my new system.

Best Regards

Barry and Penny
“Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Soon to depart:’
 Marina di Ragusa.  Sicily


On Apr 25, 2018, at 21:38, Rudolf@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello everyone in the Group


I have a Furuno AIS Receiver (passive) and I'd like to upgrade to a Transceiver (active). Now since I plan to go to Raymarine Electronics sometimes in the Future (Radar/Chartplotter etc.), I asked Reymarine for such a new active AIS box (I would have one part Raymarine already by then).

 

Now the Raymarine engineer came on board and said that the Raymarine AIS will not be compatible with my Furuno Chart plotter even if both are talking NMEA2000. I was surprised about this comment and I'm confused now weather this guy will only sell other new Raymarine components or is it real!?


When I insisted he said; YES that Raymarine AIS also talks NMEA2000 but still then it will not work correctly. His English was not perfect like mine, but I understood that this is Reymarine politics (they just don't want to have this configuration running). I have Furuno NAVnet vx2 on my AMEL-54 (2007).


Who else in the group experienced the same or does know if this is correct or wrong statement from Reymarine. If this is product politics I'm rather not going to Reymarine in the future.... ;-) 


Thanks for advice

Ruedi 

SY WASABI A54 #55



Re: Jib car removal

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Chris:  

My original reply didn't post for some reason.  I recently did the modification to the rail (as show in the photo in my other post).  

Amel clearly made an error in extending this track too far aft as there is no way to remove the car without modifying the track.  There is never any reason to run the car that far aft.

Even when the "stopper" bolt is removed the car runs into the chainplate/lifting ring, preventing it's removal.  The only way to remove the car is to cut the track with an angle grinder (at least that is how I did it), then radius and dress a section of the track that is the length of the car so that once the "stopper" bolt is removed the car can be slid aft and lifted from the track. 

When grinding make sure to protect the toe-rail and areas of the track you don't desire to cut as slips with an angle grinder are in inevitable.  
 
The plastic slides are available from Euro Marine Trading (USA), G30.40A PVC inserts 160 mm long  $18.25 set of 2 ea,  plus shipping 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
Currently Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico
 


---In amelyachtowners@..., <rettirc@...> wrote :

Greetings Amelians,


I have searched old messages and cannot find how to remove the jib cars.  I need to replace the plastic sliders. 


Car forward, runs into the lifeline upright and aft it runs into the chain plate where jib sheet block is located.  


I am having trouble undoing screws holding down track.  I am thinking of getting an impact screw driver.  


Thanks in advance. 


Chris Shiels


"Jaygo". SM224

Re: Jib car removal

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Chris:  I posted a picture here  https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/1845658937/lightbox/1742109589?orderBy=mtime&sortOrder=desc&photoFilter=ALL#zax/1742109589
Showing the modification I made to the jib sheet car track to allow removal of the car. 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona

Re: Jib car removal

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Chris:

I just undertook removal of my jib sheet cars on my SM 2000 #335 for two reasons.  1. one of the plastic sliders was broken on the port side and 2. there was hurricane damage to the toe-rail on the starboard side.  In my opinion, Amel made an error in extending the track too far aft.  You never need the car back that far and even if you are able to remove the "stopper" bolt that is about 6 inches from the end of the track, the car will not come off the track as it hits the chainplate/lifting ring.   I was able to remove both of the bolts on my tracks, but then was still unable to remove the cars due to that interference.  So, I used an angle grinder and very carefully cut the top of the "T"  of the track on both sides of the vertical member for a distance of the length of the jib sheet car.  I radiuses the forward ends of the cut and dressed and filed the track for a finished look..  Now removal of the car is accomplished by removing the "stopper" bolt then sliding the car to the narrowed area of track and lifting upward.  I hope that makes sense.  It was a tedious project and I recommend placing protection of the fiberglass and areas of track you don't want to damage as slips with the angle grinder are bound to happen. 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
In repairs at Island Marine, Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Victron Auto Isolation Transformer

islandpearl2_sm2k332
 

Bill

I have one of these on board, the 3600w Victron Islolation transformer version on your data sheet, but the version with physical jumpers to move internally to select between 110v/220v input.

To be honest, it has been on board for over a year and I have yet to install it, as we have been at anchor mostly and it will really become most usefull to me when we reach the east coast of USA where I may leave the boat in a marina for a few months.

The 3600w version is pretty heavy and I've been trying to find a suitable position for it. My current plan is to bolt it on the shelf up behind the Onan generator, bolted through the fwd wall of the life raft (200L spare diesel in my case  in jerry cans) locker as that is close to the shore power input cable box. My only issue is that I already have so much weight on that side as I often have the spare fuel full at present crossing so many oceans.

Also, I have not yet worked out how to best connect it into that special Amel shore power junction box........waiting for someone smarter with electronics (like you!) to do it first so I can copy you. I never just let any marine electrician loose on Island Pearl until I am sure that the Amel Guru's on this site have already pioneered connections in the correct "AMEL" way.

After seeing my unit (and trying to purchase it off me...which I refused) a good cruising friend in Malaysia purchased and installed the exact same unit on his boat. He has been extremely satisfied with it since.

Very keen to follow this thread and see where and how you connect it Bill. These are the most solid and robust isolation transformers you can purchase with the added advantage of a very heavy duty 110/220v transformer you can trust, however from what I have been advised, it is better to go with the 3600w instead of the 2000w

Best regards

Colin Streeter
SV Island Pearl II, Amel 53 #332
Gan, Addu Atoll, Maldives
(leaving for Chagos this next week)

On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 11:03 PM, john.biohead@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Porter. (and Bill)  forgive me if I am jumping in at the wrong point.  


Porter the transformer is for regulating shore power onto the boat.  It gives one the option to use different voltage inputs on the SP cable and get 220/230v supplied to the boat's AC distribution panel. Charging the battery is a different matter.

 Porter, I installed the MagnaSine  4124 inverter-charger over Christmas (2017) and have had good experience with it so far.  I corresponded a lot with Bill Kinney during the installation trying to make sure I did not foul up the Amel bonding set up.  I think we worked through it OK.  The unit is wired between the auto transfer switch (the one that selects the generator or shore power for AC) and acts as a charger if AC is present upstream (from SP or the genset,) or as an inverter if there is no other source of AC.  I set it up to be the "whole house" inverter so it supplies the main AC distribution panel.   We routinely run the microwave, vacuum, food processor...etc from the battery.    I paid about $1900 USD  for the unit plus the remote control unit, which you will need.

As a charger it supplies 63 amps to the battery at the start and ramps down as the battery voltage comes up.  It is programmable so you can set it to which ever battery type you have.   We have AGMs and it does the absorb phase at 28.6V then floats at 26.5V  We run in it in parallel with a 40A charger to speed things along at the start. 

I installed the unit in the engine room forward port side.  It has internal cooling fans, and internal temperature sensors to shut it down if it gets too hot. It seems to be happy there so far.  

If you have a charger that is becoming unreliable  I definitely recommend getting a new charger  while you are near good shipping points.  We now have three chargers, in addition to the solar, engine alternator, and shaft alternator.  Can't have too much.

   See you soon,  John and Colleen

SV Annie  SM 37
St Thomas, USVI





--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445

Jib car removal

rettirc@...
 

Greetings Amelians,


I have searched old messages and cannot find how to remove the jib cars.  I need to replace the plastic sliders. 


Car forward, runs into the lifeline upright and aft it runs into the chain plate where jib sheet block is located.  


I am having trouble undoing screws holding down track.  I am thinking of getting an impact screw driver.  


Thanks in advance. 


Chris Shiels


"Jaygo". SM224

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick

James Alton
 

Hyères,

   The quickly oil resoaked air filter is also making me think that engine oil could be causing the oil spots on the water.  A simple test to check to see if the engine oil is coming up from the tube that vents the crankcase is to  decouple the tube from the intake, place it in a bucket and run the engine briefly and see if you have oil spatters in the bucket.  If you have a lot of blow by from the crankcase you will also see what looks like exhaust coming from the tube,  which hopefully will not be the case since that may mean that you have more serious problems.  I am not familiar with the exact crankcase ventilation system on your engine but most systems also incorporate a drain back systemso that much of the oil blown into the engine intake from the crankcase ventilation system can drain back to the crankcase.  If the drain back system is not not functioning properly, oil can pool in the intake system and be drawn into the engine.

   It sounds like you have been pretty meticulous with your engine maintenance so hopefully this turns out to be something simple.  

Best of luck,

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Apr 26, 2018, at 1:41 PM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Thank you Jeff.

Will have the transmission cooler tested.

Regards,

Peregrinus
SM2K N. 350 (2002)
Hyères


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Strange 24DC leakage

Sv Garulfo
 


Hi everyone,

So we traced the leak back to the bow thruster.   Not sure yet what is wong with it. Chances are some carbon dust from the brushes creates the negative-grounding connection. 

We built another leak detector with a LED bulb and 2 wires to second the amel detector. We plug one end on the grounding and the other end to the positive of the 24V battery bank. A leak on the negative circuit would light the bulb. We found it's more sensitive than our amel built detector and would show a dim light even when the amel detector wouldn't light (to the naked eye). That may show our amel detector isn't 100% working order. I'll troubleshoot that next. 

One aspect of the issue we are still a bit confused about: 
Despite disconnecting the big cable that connects the battery bank to the front locker where the bow thruster (and others components like the windlass, etc) are, we would still see a strong leak. We had to disconnect another cable that goes in the engine room to remove the leak altogether. There we thought we had 2 sources of strong leaks.... 
We failed to trace the ER leak (while forelocker cable disconnected from the battery bank's end), so we concentrated on the forelocker one (while ER cable disconnected). When we eventually disconnected the bow thruster from its end and reconnected everything else from their end in the forelocker, we could see only a very dim leak (and undetected by the amel detector). We then reconnected the ER cable, expecting to see and diagnose the second strong leak, but it was gone... 

So is it possible that the ER cable was showing the bow thruster leak despite the main forelocker cable being disconnected? 

If yes (and it seems to be the case) then the methodology of disconnecting all-but-one cable from the batteries is somewhat flawed... The ER cable lead was a going roundabout.  

On a positive note, we now have a better handle on the cable soup (tidy, but opaque) in the ER. Bring on the labelling machine!

TBC


Fair winds,

Thomas 
GARULFO 
Amel 54 #122
Saint Martin, FWI


On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 at 14:24, rossidesigngroup@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

We  had the same.  Comes and goes.  Eventually we discovered it was dependent on another boat near us--  it would happen when the other boat docked andhooked up to shore power, then disappear when it left.  Months later, in another location it happened again.  I have had the feeling we were ending up detecting a leak in a nearby boat (boats at most marinas share the same ground, even use your zincs if they don't have them).  I have no idea how this is possible, maybe some of you with more electrical knowlege do!  We also have a galvanic isolator with detection as well and no correlation with its indicators.  The only time our galvanic isolator showed a leak was in a questionable marina in Greece.  Tests with a volt meter showed the galvanic isolator was solving the problem even though indicating a fault.  The Amel indicator showed no fault. BTW the addition of a galvanic isolator slowed our rudder zinc loss to near zero.  


Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI SM 429 In the water in Malta

PS Adm Bill--should I post my Amel WOB results?

Re: Volvos.......

greatketch@...
 

Ian,

Will the engine run at 2800 rpm unloaded (in netural)?

If NOT, the answer is not fuel starvation (because that would take very little fuel) but a possible problem with the injection pump or speed governor.

If YES, then...  I am not sure...

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Somewhere around Eleuthera, Bahamas

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Low Revs.........

Porter McRoberts
 

Get 12 buds. And your uncle. 
Then make sure you have the “paid professional” on back up. 

I don’t have a SM but 2800 seems in the ball park. Yes?  

See you in Bonaire!!

Porter McRoberts
Ibis 54-152. Monserrat. 


Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Apr 26, 2018, at 9:56 AM, thomas.kleman <no_reply@...> wrote:

 

Hello Amelians- Would love to get advice, so please indulge me. Situation: I'm in Martinique, three weeks from heading to Bonaire for hurricane season.........then Aruba, Columbia, Panama, and through the canal......i.e. about to head away from the island chain and abundant technical support.


Through owning L'ORIENT (SM2K #422) for 8 years (and being cheap), I've become fairly technically competent with the boat and haven't paid for a technician in years.........and owe a lot to the posts I've read here for that. While not every repair has been smooth I've found the answer is always in this site. In maintaining the boat, I try to balance opposing cliches......."don't fix it if it isn't broken"........and "you can't be afraid of your boat".


So, the other day I decide to test the engine and attempt to get the revs up while motoring...........can't get above 1900 RPM. No big deal........it must be a dirty prop, like always..........so I dive on the prop and find some peach fuzz and a few smalll barnacles but not enough (in my estimation) to cause the loss of revs (this has happened to me before quite often when I lived at Miami Beach Marina for 2 years).


So after cleaning the prop I test the boat again and am able to achieve 2800 RPMs without vibration or problem (a bit of additional exhaust smell maybe but I think that was wind direction). This still leaves me uncomfortable since I feel like there should have been more fouling on the prop.


I have in my spares 4 new fuel injectors, guides, fuel line, etc........everything I need to change the injectors; however this is a project I've never done before. I'm normally decisive in this situation but don't really have a direction figured out yet. So, what now ?


1) do nothing......engine has only 2600 hours and things seem OK now. Also, it might not even be the injectors !!!

2) pay a guy to change the injectors and test the engine (hate this option)

3) change the injectors myself (my uncle, the former chief mechanic for a major US city thinks I'm a wimp to even consider paying someone else.........says he could do this in an hour while drinking 3 Buds).


My hesistancy to reflexively go to the "do nothing" option is that if the problem re-emerges in someplace less saturated with potential help I will wish I had dealt with it now.


Thoughts ?



Re: Low Revs.........

greatketch@...
 

Changing injectors isn't tough, just be as fanatically clean about it as you can.  It's only a little bit harder than changing spark plugs, and mostly because you will need to bleed the fuel lines after the replacement.  

I have never done it on a Yanmar, but a I have a story that might have relevance...

On my old boat I had a 40 year old BMC diesel with standard Bosch injectors.  The service manual described in detail how to pull the injectors using the special tool, that of course was no longer available.  I approached the task with much wimpering (as you uncle would say!).

After removing the two nuts that secured each injector and disconnecting the fuel header, I puzzled over how to jury rig a pulling tool to get them out.  After much head scratching and fussing I tried an experiment using tools I already had...

Each one come out using two fingers...  Sometimes, things are as easy as we wish they always were!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Somewhere around Eleuthera, Bahamas



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: The mistery slick

greatketch@...
 

Yes!  Do check the transmission cooler.  It's cheap and easy.  

But the quickly oiling of the airfilter makes me wonder if you might have more than normal combustion gas blowing past the rings into the crankcase, carrying oil mist through its normal vent into the intake.  Hence the mechanic's suggestion for a compression test.

It sounds like the mechanic you had look at the engine knew his stuff.

Here's hoping you have a simple problem we just can't think of yet!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Somewhere around Eleuthera, Bahamas

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard

greatketch@...
 

I have no trouble with that on my boat.  

It's the same with the main sail halyard.  It needs a spliced loop on the down side to hook on the locking car. The only place it tends to hang up a little bit when hoisting the sail is right when the spliced eye is coming out of the cut out in the mast.  Just a bit of wiggling, and it puts right through.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Somewhere around Eleuthera, Bahamas


---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Bill, I take it from what you wrote, that a halyard with an eye spliced in can pass up the mast and over the forward sheave ,in which case I will have an eye put in on both ends of the new halyard.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Apr 24, 2018 10:59 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Ballooner Halyard

 
Pat,

Mine has a loop sliced on one end, and a key shackle spliced on the on the other.

The sliced loop is a bit too large to fit over the "hook" on the mouse so it has a secondary loop of small diameter spectra line that takes care of that.  The key shackle is hooked to the loop to work as the downhaul once the sail is latched.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Rock Sound, Eleuthera, Bahamas

Re: Victron Auto Isolation Transformer

John Clark
 

Porter. (and Bill)  forgive me if I am jumping in at the wrong point.  

Porter the transformer is for regulating shore power onto the boat.  It gives one the option to use different voltage inputs on the SP cable and get 220/230v supplied to the boat's AC distribution panel. Charging the battery is a different matter.

 Porter, I installed the MagnaSine  4124 inverter-charger over Christmas (2017) and have had good experience with it so far.  I corresponded a lot with Bill Kinney during the installation trying to make sure I did not foul up the Amel bonding set up.  I think we worked through it OK.  The unit is wired between the auto transfer switch (the one that selects the generator or shore power for AC) and acts as a charger if AC is present upstream (from SP or the genset,) or as an inverter if there is no other source of AC.  I set it up to be the "whole house" inverter so it supplies the main AC distribution panel.   We routinely run the microwave, vacuum, food processor...etc from the battery.    I paid about $1900 USD  for the unit plus the remote control unit, which you will need.

As a charger it supplies 63 amps to the battery at the start and ramps down as the battery voltage comes up.  It is programmable so you can set it to which ever battery type you have.   We have AGMs and it does the absorb phase at 28.6V then floats at 26.5V  We run in it in parallel with a 40A charger to speed things along at the start. 

I installed the unit in the engine room forward port side.  It has internal cooling fans, and internal temperature sensors to shut it down if it gets too hot. It seems to be happy there so far.  

If you have a charger that is becoming unreliable  I definitely recommend getting a new charger  while you are near good shipping points.  We now have three chargers, in addition to the solar, engine alternator, and shaft alternator.  Can't have too much.

   See you soon,  John and Colleen

SV Annie  SM 37
St Thomas, USVI


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Victron Auto Isolation Transformer

greatketch@...
 

Porter,

We haven't pulled the trigger on the transformer yet, as long as we are not connected to shore power, it isn't really a priority. 

I am a little confused by your question however, this is not a battery charger, and would not be a replacement for one..

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Somewhere around Eleuthera, Bahamas



---In amelyachtowners@..., <portermcroberts@...> wrote :

Bill 

This looks excellent. 
Our 100amp Charger seems to be on the blink. 
Could this be a reasonable replacement?  
Seems so. 

Did you end up getting one?  

How was the install? I used victron for our solar and it is simply amazing. Cool with the Bluetooth dongle. 

Many thanks
 Porter
S/V Ibis 54-152

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sealant for dodger windows?

Ryan Meador
 

I see Permatex makes a clear RTV silicone, I think I'll go with that one.  I like the idea of it being easily removable.  If it fails, it will be an easy job to replace.  I'm not concerned about the color (even though this one is clear) because I've painted the edges of the new dodger glass just like the original, so the sealant will be out of sight.

Thanks for the advice!

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 11:25 AM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

All,

I did some research on using Mineral Spirits and Paint thinner on Plexiglass to see if my past experience in working with these materials seemed to be accurate.  I found that there seems to consensus that 100% Mineral Spirits is considered safe for Plexiglass.  While  “Paint Thinner” (for oil based paints) tends to be mostly Mineral Spirits it can apparently also contain a mixture of other solvents,  some of which  could be harmful to Plexiglass.  So I want to correct my statement that Paint Thinner is safe for use on Plexiglass, even though I have used various brands of solvent labelled “Paint Thinner” for decades without any problems.   It is possible that I might have just been lucky in selecting Paint Thinner brands that were safe and I sure don’t want an Amel owner to find one that isn’t based on something that I posted.    

In my research, I also found that apparently Isopropyl alcohol is often used to clean silicone from aircraft canopies and is apparently considered safe but I have not used it myself so don’t know how well it works for this application.

Best,

James

SV Sueño
Maramu #220


On Apr 26, 2018, at 2:33 AM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Ryan,


   Well I have used mineral spirits/paint thinner (for oil based paints,  not urethanes)  on Acrylics for 40 years on countless boats without any obvious negative effects but that is the only testing that I have done.  I always tape to keep the worst of the caulking off.  Scrap the bulk of the material off with something soft like the soft plastic spreaders used for applying bondo and then finish cleaning with rags and the paint thinner.  Also, if you only clean up a small area at a time, your caulking will be easier to remove.  Once you disturb the bead and spread it out thin, it cures much more quickly.

   Bill R. is definitely right that if you use a lower strength silicone that the future removal will be much easier.  My reasons for using the 3145 is because the caulking can last the life of the new plexiglass without leakage and I would rather fight with the removal aspect at the end than to deal with leaks and having to redo the caulking.  There seems to always be a piper to pay!  (grin)  The 3145 btw  is also non corrosive so the stainless screws fair a bit better than if you use the more common silicones with the acetic acid in them.  I think that there are other non corrosive silicones with a lower strength than the 3145 out there but don’t know of any that are clear or white off hand.  Perhaps others can help. 

Best of luck with your project.

James
SV Sueño
Maramu #220 
  
On Apr 25, 2018, at 6:07 PM, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Silicone RTV. If you get any squeezed out when screwing down, cut it with a razor and peel it off. Let the screws do the securing and the RTV, the sealing. The next owner will be thankful.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, Apr 25, 2018, 19:47 Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Pat and Ian, that might be a workable idea, but it would be a lot of work.  Getting the masking tape right to paint the edges (to cover the sealant) was a huge job, and this would be the same again.

James, both of your ideas seem like much less work.  I had not considered using longer screws.  That still leaves the problem of getting the butyl tape into position, and it's very frustrating to cut... so I think perhaps I'll go the silicone route.  I also was not aware silicone could be easily wiped off acrylic.  I thought I would have to use a solvent (like acetone) which would attack it.  I'm surprised mineral spirits is safe; I usually consider that harsher than acetone.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a silicone?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 1:06 PM, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Ryan,
   If you want to use the butyl tape, just get some longer screws, pins or even some drill bits that fit the holes in your window panels.  Next locate a few corner holes in your frame.  Insert two long screws pins or whatever you are using into the matching holes in your new plexiglass and hold the new panel an inch or two above your window frame.  You can now work the long screws or pins into the holes you exposed in the frame and at that point lower the plexiglass into perfect position on the first try.  From that point just install several of your permanent screws and remove the temporary long locating screws or pins.  If you still have concerns, do a dry run without the butyl.  You will need some extra hands.  And no worries cleaning most silicones off of acrylic.  You can pretty much remove it with a clean rag.  Mineral spirits or paint thinner is safe for the acrylic if needed.  Don't use anything harsh like acetone.  I will let someone else recommend the sealant.  I will be using the Dow Corning 3145 Gray on mine..  
Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Apr 25, 2018 11:08 AM, "Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Hi all,

I'm replacing my dodger windows. I've had the acrylic fabricated, I've painted the edges, I've filled and drilled the screw holes.... The only thing I'm missing is the sealant.

I had intended to use butyl tape, but the stuff I got is way too stickly to work with. It's almost impossible to cut, and even if I got it in place, I'd be unable to fine tune the window position before screwing.

I think the original sealant was a type of silicone. Does anyone know what it was and how it was applied? I'm scared it will squish out onto the window and I won't be able to get it off the acrylic.

Thanks,

Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA









Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wind or Water generator

John Clark
 

Hi Ian,
   sorry I am a little late in responding.  We have been underway and with patchy internet.  We have the fixed prop(autoprop as a spare, set up preferred by previous owner which I have not felt compelled to change) and will generate useful power starting between 4-5kts.  At hull speed, say 7.5-9.0 kts the alternator produces more power than we can use.  The regulator is set to 27.5 volts and will float the batteries at that voltage.

I don't have an ammeter on the alternator output, but If the battery needs charge the highest I have seen gling in is 15 amps.  This of course would be in addition to running loads which vary.   We have one bench freezer, the galley frig and a portable 24V chest frig.  Underway we have a Raymarine Es78 chart plotter, Furuno 1623 radar, VHF and AIS running at all times.   Oh and the Igloo Ice Maker!  

              Regards,  John
SV Annie SM 37
Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas  USVI

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvos.......

karkauai
 

Hi Ian,
Do you have an AutoProp?  My understanding is that they are ver persnickety about growth.  I'd take PenAzen out for another trial and if all is OK, I'd probably opt for "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."

I understand there is a wire mesh filter in the tank at the outflow.  I don't know how to get to it, but if it is clogged you may have a fuel starvation there, which could be intermittent as fuel sloshes around.  Do you have a pressure gauge in the supply line?  Kristy has a dual racor setup with a gauge.  If there is a blockage in supply line it should read negative pressure.

Not a mechanic, but that's the first two things that come to mind.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
SM 243
Heading for St Michaels, MD for the Summer.

On Apr 26, 2018, at 12:13 PM, Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi All,


I thought this subject had been reviewed so many times that there was nothing else to know. However.....


Last year our 78hp Volvo was partially rebuilt by the Volvo agent in Hyeres. Not a happy experience, but we did end up with an engine performing as it should. With a clean bottom and prop  the rev counter went up to 2800 with a top speed in calm water of about 8.4k, much the same as when the boat was launched 18 years ago. We are pretty rigorous about opening the throttle to max every 12 hours or so.


We put about 290 hours on the engine and then left the boat ashore till this month. I changed the oil and fuel filters. We have twin Racors before fuel reaches the engine.


Having launched, with a spotless bottom and Autoprop, we  motored for about 12 hours at no more than 1900 revs.

Performance was perfect- up to 7.1k at 1800.    I then opened the throttle but with the lever full ahead the revs would not exceed 2100.  At 2000 revs we do 7.3k and at 2100 7.7k, what I would expect. But nothing above 2100.


More than that, on four occasions when I have tried full throttle the revs have fallen back  suddenly to about 1500, on one occasion stopping the engine.


I should mention that the refit included a new turbo , injectors and exhaust elbow and the fuel pump was sent off to Bosch who confirmed that it was fine


Diving on the prop shows that it is still spotless.


My thoughts are that there must be a fuel shortage when I open the throttle; that there is sufficient flow up to 2100  for the engine to perform correctly but above that there is fuel starvation.  I have changed both the engine and the Racor filters again, in case some fuel bug had grown over the winter and blocked them. The ones I took off were spotless and the fuel they contained was also spotless.


Anyone got any thoughts ?


Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Korfos, Greece


My thoug