Date   

Re: SM2 Roller Reefer Guide Rods

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi all. A jammed swivel can cause the pretzles. Another method of forming them is to put yourcspar

On 30 August 2020 at 13:35 "Craig Briggs via groups.io" <sangaris@...> wrote:


Hi Dave,
PS to my earlier post.
Actually, as I think about it, I can't quite figure out how a "jammed swivel" would cause the "pretzels" of your anti-rotation rods.  A jammed swivel would perhaps cause the lower rivets to break, but it would not, kind of by definition, allow the upper swivel to rotate and bend over your anti-rotation bars that are now pretzels. Clearly either you or a prior owner has forgotten to lower and remove the balooner mouse and halyard before furling the genoa. Hence, the raised balooner halyard locks the ends of anti-rotation rods while the swivel turns freely with the full force of the motor and bends the rods into pretzels. 
Alternate interpretations welcomed, but this is how I see it.
--
Craig, SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: DC DC starter battery charger on Amel 55 fuse sizes

Clive Chapman
 

I know nothing about Amel specific electrics, but a fuse can also protect the wiring. Is it possible the cabling is only rated at 15A? The danger with uprating the fuse is you could create a fire risk because the wiring now effectively becomes the fuse (sorry if this is teaching you what you already know). 



DC DC starter battery charger on Amel 55 fuse sizes

Billy Newport
 

My generator wouldn't start last weekend so on poking around, the starter was weak. I could start the engine and then I could start the generator. On checking why the starter was weak, the DC-DC charger output side (#3 under the nav seat) was blown. It's a 15A fuse. So, no charger, dead battery, gen won't start. Ok.

Looking at the Victron manuals for an Orion 24/12/25 DC DC charger. It has a normal bulk output current of 25A with a peak output of 35A. Why have Amel installed a 15A fuse, it's even labeled 15A.

So, I left the boat this week and when I came back today, the 15A fuse I replaced is blown again. I discussed with BillR and for now, I've replaced both fuses with a 20A and a 40A (don't have a 35A). Now, given what I can figure out, I don't know how this ever worked but clearly the boat is 4 years old and has 20k nm on it. I've sent an email to Denis, the old owner asking what gives.

Do the alternators on the gen OR engine charge the starter battery? Is it just the DC-DC charging it?

The cables are 10 gauge wire. I can't see how long they are. 24V @ 20A is no problem for 10 awg. 12V at 25A is good at 10 feet long with 1% V drop.

Thanks
Billy
Amel 55#56


Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

Alan Leslie
 

We had a complete manifold made out of stainless steel by EMEK Marine in Turkey for our SM.
Beautifully made, I think this is the answer.
Not sure if SM and 54 manifolds are the same, if not it surely wouldn't be difficult to modify the design.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437 stuck in Opua NZ


Re: SM2 Roller Reefer Guide Rods

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Dave,

While it could be a jammed swivel, it is absolutely the classic pretzel you get by furling the genoa without removing the balooner halyard and its releasing "mouse" from the furling extrusion. I did it a few times early on when I would lower the balooner, forget all about the halyard and mouse still being in place while I bagged the sail. Then I'd furl in the Genoa. Oops, another pretzel! 

It's amazing how much torque the furler has. As I recall, I think I stopped doing that after three pretzels. And I tried to change procedures to remove the halyard/mouse immediately, although that's hard if you're doing it single handed. 

By the way, that will also really stress the rivets holding the furling extrusion onto the furler and there have been many posts here about those holes becoming enlarged and/or rivets breaking.

So, don't forget your mouse.

Cheers,
Craig,  -  SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

Jamie Wendell
 

I do not think that the manifold corrosion is directly related to the bonding system. Copper will eventually fail in a salt-water environment, which is what I experienced.
You can verify the problems with copper by inspecting some of the original wiring in the boat, which was not tinned unfortunately. The copper strands turn black.
In the case of the manifold, you have trapped raw water inside and you cannot see the gradual corrosion taking place.
Jamie
Phantom, A54 #44


Re: Electric shock from the windlass

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Paulo,
You really need to make sure this is not a 240v AC problem as that is dangerous.
Turn off the inverter
Disconnect the shore power
Do not run the generator

Then see if you still have the problem.
If you do then it is serious and potentially life threatening. Get an electrician immediately.

If not then it is on the 24v side; not dangerous to life and limb but is likely to be damaging to the sea water exposed fittings, like propeller, skin fittings etc.

Then it is a question of figuring it out. If you use a professional it could be expensive as it may take a long time. It took me a week to find a “Masse leek” ! Maybe 20 hours of testing testing thinking testing.....

so I suggest you either open your wallet or your mind.

Nick
Aboard Ameliai in Leros enjoying the last of summer for me.

AML 54-019

On 29 Aug 2020, at 00:09, PAOLO CUNEO <pc43ge@...> wrote:

Hi Craig,
Thanks for your prompt reply. I will try that as soon as I am back on board.
For testing, I have little hope with the crew. They had already mutinied when I asked for volunteers to experiment the extent of the problem and I had to do it myself
Bests
Paolo Cuneo

SM 454 Whisper
Inviato da iPad


Inviato da iPad


Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

Sv Garulfo
 


Thanks for the heads up about the manifold. 

Does premature corrosion of the copper manifold indicate a possible disconnection from the bonding system and/or an electrical leak?


Thanks 
Thomas 
GARULFO
A54-122
Raiatea, French Polynesia 


On Fri, 28 Aug 2020 at 17:24, Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Michael,
Olivier Beaute had a fun quiz on this DB a while ago and asked what the main PVC pipe was on the boat - it was the cockpit drains!  They are not GRP fiberglass covered except where they are tabbed into the hull. I've drilled through mine up high for A/C and Refrigeration cooling water discharges when I added those systems to my SN - they are just PVC.

As to the PVC pipe schedule, I think plain old white hardware store Schedule 40 rated at 220 psi should be fine - there is simply no positive pressure at all in the manifold (maybe a slight negative pressure, actually, as pumps suck water). That appears to be what Tom Cunliffe has used in the article I posted a couple of days ago. But, hey, overkill never hurt, either.

If I'm not mistaken, all Amels have factory installed fire suppression systems in the engine rooms.

Cheers, Craig  -  SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: SM2 Roller Reefer Guide Rods

 

It was caused by the swivel jamming. Now you'll need to determine why it jammed. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Sat, Aug 29, 2020, 11:18 AM David Kurtz via groups.io <Davidwkurtz=me.com@groups.io> wrote:
As I restepped my mast, I found that not one, but both of the guide rods on the top of the roller furler were bent like pretzels.  I am somewhat mystified as to what would create that amount of force at the top of the genoa.  I cannot recall any mishaps where the unfurling and furling of the genoa went poorly or I had difficulty.  Has anyone else experienced this or have an idea as to what might have caused this?  Obviously wish to avoid this in the future!

Thanks!
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross

Detroit, Michigan


Re: New rub rail inserts

 

Yes, I have seen it. In each case it was traced back to blasting with sand, media and/or very high high water pressure. Yard workers love to crank the pressure up high enough to remove "barnacle glue," rather than scrape.

I do not know that this is what you have. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   


On Sat, Aug 29, 2020, 11:11 AM Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...> wrote:
I would love to get new rub rails inserts, but stuck in Thailand, and will not get close to the Caribbean for WHO knows when. Currently re-gelcoating the Rub Rail, and Gel Coat for the red boot stripe.  Also sanded Aquarius' bottom down to gel coat.  And, 100 blisters appeared.  I was so scared when I saw all the little bumps, and the person that sanded Aquarius down showed me that it was osmosis by opening one up with a knife.  YUP, osmosis, you can smell it.....  But, how could this be, I have never heard of an Amel with Osmosis.  So, the painters thought that it was going to be a big job, but in the end the osmosis didn't penetrate past the first layer.  So, no big deal!  Fixed all 100 spots in about 4 hours of work.  YES..

The bottoms on Amel's are really bullet proof!

Ken
Aquarius SM#262
Stuck in Thailand


SM2 Roller Reefer Guide Rods

David Kurtz
 

As I restepped my mast, I found that not one, but both of the guide rods on the top of the roller furler were bent like pretzels.  I am somewhat mystified as to what would create that amount of force at the top of the genoa.  I cannot recall any mishaps where the unfurling and furling of the genoa went poorly or I had difficulty.  Has anyone else experienced this or have an idea as to what might have caused this?  Obviously wish to avoid this in the future!

Thanks!
--
Dave Kurtz
SM2 #380
S/V Celtic Cross

Detroit, Michigan


Re: New rub rail inserts

Ken Powers SV Aquarius
 

I would love to get new rub rails inserts, but stuck in Thailand, and will not get close to the Caribbean for WHO knows when. Currently re-gelcoating the Rub Rail, and Gel Coat for the red boot stripe.  Also sanded Aquarius' bottom down to gel coat.  And, 100 blisters appeared.  I was so scared when I saw all the little bumps, and the person that sanded Aquarius down showed me that it was osmosis by opening one up with a knife.  YUP, osmosis, you can smell it.....  But, how could this be, I have never heard of an Amel with Osmosis.  So, the painters thought that it was going to be a big job, but in the end the osmosis didn't penetrate past the first layer.  So, no big deal!  Fixed all 100 spots in about 4 hours of work.  YES..

The bottoms on Amel's are really bullet proof!

Ken
Aquarius SM#262
Stuck in Thailand


Re: Sore head?

Gary Wells
 
Edited


I still hit my head from time to time and thankfully it's a lot softer these days.

I split a section of pool noodle lengthwise and it pretty much just snaps into place.


Lasts several months before the UV starts degrading it and it starts to "shed"  but it's a cheap solution :)

Cheers!

Gary W.
SM 209, Adagio
Galesville, MD, USA



Re: Galley refrigerator not cooling

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Barry,

 

Yes it is the same. I don’t want to cast aspersions but I can say that Stuart from Iguana Marine in Grenada managed to fix a fridge that was not fixable in Le Marin.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Barry Connor via groups.io
Sent: 28 August 2020 14:40
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Galley refrigerator not cooling

 

Hi Paul, 

We are still in Le Marin. Went to the shop upstairs above Caraibe Marine and bought a new fridge door opening latch. The big French man in the shop was nice and recommended the all stainless steel latch instead of the original latch which was part plastic. (The plastic part had broken).His price was the same as advertised online from UK supplier. Easy install by me.

Is this possibly who you are referring to as we are thinking of asking him to check our fridge gas pressure? The gas pipe at the back is freezing up and dropping water on top of the water tank inspection port, then the water runs to under the stair. Mopping it up each morning. Think I have too much gas in the system. I have already Re-claged the pipe in insulation but still freezing up.

Please let me know if you think this is the same man?

We contacted Driftwood about our windscreens but can’t get to Granada, still stuck in Martinique. Thank’s for the contact.

Very Best 

 

Barry and Penny

“SV Lady Penelope II”

Amel 54. #17

Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 

 

 



On Aug 28, 2020, at 04:00, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:



Yes, that’s exactly what happened to me in Le Marin and I fell for it

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Ken Powers SV Aquarius
Sent: 28 August 2020 07:29
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Galley refrigerator not cooling

 

You need to be very careful when cleaning your fridge.  If you get the ice off the plate with something that could puncture the gas lines within the plate, this is not being very careful.  One of my fridges was not working, and actually found a honest refrigeration guy in Tahiti.  He said, yeah I could change some parts, but I don't think that's the problem.  The quick connect links (that only cost a few dollars) usually go bad, so let's change them and fill up back up and run it.  It worked!  Paid for an hour of time, little bit of gas, and two quick connect gaskets...  Still working 2.5 years later....  All for less than $100 dollar bill.  

Now, if you were in Le Marin. there's a 6' 2" French guy that will tell you you need a new refrigerator and installation which cost only $3500.

Cheers,

Ken
Aquarius SM2K #262
Still in Thailand 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Michael,
Olivier Beaute had a fun quiz on this DB a while ago and asked what the main PVC pipe was on the boat - it was the cockpit drains!  They are not GRP fiberglass covered except where they are tabbed into the hull. I've drilled through mine up high for A/C and Refrigeration cooling water discharges when I added those systems to my SN - they are just PVC.

As to the PVC pipe schedule, I think plain old white hardware store Schedule 40 rated at 220 psi should be fine - there is simply no positive pressure at all in the manifold (maybe a slight negative pressure, actually, as pumps suck water). That appears to be what Tom Cunliffe has used in the article I posted a couple of days ago. But, hey, overkill never hurt, either.

If I'm not mistaken, all Amels have factory installed fire suppression systems in the engine rooms.

Cheers, Craig  -  SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

Porter McRoberts
 

We used these incredibly versatile fittings to fabricate the manifold. 


Porter
A54-152


On Aug 28, 2020, at 4:19 PM, michael winand via groups.io <mfw642000@...> wrote:

Hi Craig,  I was pointing out that the photo of the new Amel manifold is made of poly pipe fitting that are heat welded, www.advancedpiping.com.au      this makes a very strong joint. 
If you are going to use PVC pipe  I would be sure to use shedual  pressure pipe and fittings, with the glue that is appropriate for pressure fittings, also need to clean the fittings and pipe with a MEk cleaner,,. Swimming pool pumping and filter style fittings would work.   Stay clear of drainage fittings and pipe.  
Regarding a engine room fire, we should have a working fire suppression system, like the fire boy.
I  was under the impression that the cockpit drains are fibreglass covered.
I know that the main engine and genset  exhausts are a heavy schedule pvc fitting at the waterline exit. Should not have any heat in this part of the exhaust. 
Regards Michael winand  Nebo sm251


On Sat, 29 Aug. 2020 at 10:18 am, Craig Briggs via groups.io
<sangaris@...> wrote:
Hi Michael,
I'm not sure I understand the difference between using PVC in the engine room for a drain, as Amel does for the large diameter cockpit drains which have no water in them above the water line and no seacocks, and using it for a Manifold, which would always have water inside and thus, ostensibly, be more resistant to being compromised by fire, and in addition has a seacock. What am I missing?
Best regards, Craig -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

michael winand
 

Hi Craig,  I was pointing out that the photo of the new Amel manifold is made of poly pipe fitting that are heat welded, www.advancedpiping.com.au      this makes a very strong joint. 
If you are going to use PVC pipe  I would be sure to use shedual  pressure pipe and fittings, with the glue that is appropriate for pressure fittings, also need to clean the fittings and pipe with a MEk cleaner,,. Swimming pool pumping and filter style fittings would work.   Stay clear of drainage fittings and pipe.  
Regarding a engine room fire, we should have a working fire suppression system, like the fire boy.
I  was under the impression that the cockpit drains are fibreglass covered.
I know that the main engine and genset  exhausts are a heavy schedule pvc fitting at the waterline exit. Should not have any heat in this part of the exhaust. 
Regards Michael winand  Nebo sm251


On Sat, 29 Aug. 2020 at 10:18 am, Craig Briggs via groups.io
<sangaris@...> wrote:
Hi Michael,
I'm not sure I understand the difference between using PVC in the engine room for a drain, as Amel does for the large diameter cockpit drains which have no water in them above the water line and no seacocks, and using it for a Manifold, which would always have water inside and thus, ostensibly, be more resistant to being compromised by fire, and in addition has a seacock. What am I missing?
Best regards, Craig -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Michael,
I'm not sure I understand the difference between using PVC in the engine room for a drain, as Amel does for the large diameter cockpit drains which have no water in them above the water line and no seacocks, and using it for a Manifold, which would always have water inside and thus, ostensibly, be more resistant to being compromised by fire, and in addition has a seacock. What am I missing?
Best regards, Craig -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Electric shock from the windlass

PAOLO CUNEO
 

Hi Craig,
Thanks for your prompt reply. I will try that as soon as I am back on board.
For testing, I have little hope with the crew. They had already mutinied when I asked for volunteers to experiment the extent of the problem and I had to do it myself
Bests
Paolo Cuneo

SM 454 Whisper
Inviato da iPad


Inviato da iPad


Re: Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

michael winand
 

I would like to point out that the pipe is not pvc.
These are a polymer that is heat welded.  I would not recommend pvc in the engine room. It's ok for a drain. 
Regards Michael  Nebo sm251


On Sat, 29 Aug 2020 at 12:37 am, CW Bill Rouse
<brouse@...> wrote:
Porter,

This is a photo of the Amel 50 saltwater manifold. If I were you, I would do something like this in PVC:
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 3:14 AM Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Paul. 
We concerns of a plastic manifold...
Or a plastic sea chest with a fire!  
Wow. There are critical concerns with every boat for sure. Or a crack in the Seachest lid!  We have replacements. The boat did not come with one.  After sailing for a while and letting the mind wander I think of all kinds of scenarios. The sea chest lid threads get screwed up....   Extra o rings? We got some but...   One can go on and on. 
You’re line of questioning is a good one. What would Amel say?  

Lets hope we never have an ER fire!  

Porter

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS 
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206

On Aug 27, 2020, at 1:27 PM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:



Last paragraph Porter’s Email: attached is the part.

 

April/May 2018 it broke off completely on AMELIT; this is the replacement part I got from AMEL.

I noticed the new unit “sweating” & oxidizing rather quickly; it almost looked like 2 different metals were used. In July/August 2019, in VANUATU, checking & prepping the boat for the trip to the SOLOMONS, my local mechanic Matthieu & I decided to remove this unit completely and replace with a plastic (PVC???) self built unit which has been doing great with no “sweating” at all.

 

When I asked Thierry (AMEL SAV) this was his reply:

 

QUOTE

 

To answer your question this manifold is custom made by Amel . The welding between brass fitting and copper pipe is  carefully done and there is  no risk of leakage.

 

UNQUOTE

 

I have also been planning to redo everything along the A50/60 concept with individual shut off valves for each downstream line.

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

I am stuck & bored and have been cruising on my motorcycle (March/April) all over BAJA CALIFORNIA 😊 😊 and since June in USA via magnificient State & National Parks on my way to ANNAPOLIS boatshow 😊

 

AMELIT is in storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA and now watched by fellow AMEL owners Sue & Brian MITCHELL (SV LOLA)

August 27, 2020 16:20:07

 

USA cell: +1 832 477 8842

AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2020 12:40
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

 

This is indeed a serious issue. 

We had the initial bronze manifold on IBIS. Looked horrible and so when we ordered our arch from Turkey had a stainless replacement manifold constructed. About 2 years ago I changed the bronze one, with significant corrosion to the stainless replacement. One year after replacement upon inspection in NZ I found a small pit and a leak. It was in NZ that I had the resources to build a new manifold out of plastic. I had reservations about the material (plastic vs metal) but recall from an A55 that I believe the stock manifold is plastic on the A55. Encouraged by the chandlery in Opua I built a plastic one. It took a couple of days, a lot of measuring and 5200. I put in isolation valves. I think it is far better than the original. I’d encourage any others who have the resources of a nearby good plumbing chandlery to think about it. One of the very cool parts of the A55 is the ability to isolate and turn of seawater to specific downstream applications. (Don’t have to turn off the refrigerator to work on the AC pump)

 

I think we’re a lot safer now. I repaired the stainless manifold and keep as a spare, but would be lothe to return to it. 

 

Keep in mind there is another smaller manifold (of which we also keep a spare) starbord of the seachest that distributes to the main engine, and then to the distribution manifold via a (formerly iffy) looking hose. That manifold could also easily fail. Amel has replacements. 

 

Porter

 

 

Porter McRoberts 

S/V IBIS A54-152

WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206



On Aug 27, 2020, at 3:38 AM, Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:



Jamie,

 

I built a new one from off-the-shelf bronze fittings and a short piece of reinforced hose in the middle. Two years on and no problems, and it will be much easier to repair next time as it can be taken apart in the middle before pulling the parts out which is much easier than getting the original out.

 

I would also be interested if anyone else has adopted this solution and how long it has lasted.

 

Cheers,

Paul

S/Y Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98 - Grenada

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Jamie Wendell
Sent: 27 August 2020 14:54
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Raw Water Manifold Failure - A54

 

I want to report a serious issue regarding the raw-water manifold that feeds the refrigerator, anchor wash, AC, and watermaker pumps on my A54. As I was servicing the sea chest strainer and cleaning out the clogged hoses, the nipple connection feeding the refrigerator pump broke off from the manifold. It actually appears to have been cracked already and was essentially sucking in some air with the cooling water. You can tell that when you hear a slight gurgling sound at the discharge thru-hull - initially I thought it was a pump problem related to insufficient cooling water through the main system strainer. Luckily I was on board at the time - if not, seawater may have poured into the engine room relying on only the automatic bilge pump to keep the water out. If the water ingress had been more than the bilge pump could discharge, the boat might have sunk (a very scary thought!).

I removed the manifold - no easy task, as it is buried behind the hoses, wires, and the cockpit scupper. The manifold appears to be made of bronze, but there was some external corrosion evident at the joint between the refrigerator connection and the main manifold tubing. It is likely that the corrosion is far worse inside the manifold, and that is hard to see when there is a lot of muck building up in the tubing. Very probably, the other nipples have similar corrosion issues inside.

So, I am now in the process of trying to replace the seawater manifold. I have 2 options: the first is to replace in kind, either custom built in a local fab shop or ordered through Amel; the second is to build one out of bronze fittings, pipe, and hose sections. I am not sure if any local shops can work with bronze, but I am investigating that possibility first. I am certain that Amel had these things built specifically for the A54 and maybe the SM or even the A55 - I am not sure if it is common to all models, but I question whether Amel could still source a replacement. The advantage to an in-kind replacement is that it would be a drop-in and also be smaller and lighter. The advantage to a manifold built from fittings is that I can install shut-off valves for each feed circuit, allowing me to isolate if there is a problem with one of the systems and retain the other systems in operation while I service the failed system. I like that concept the best, as many times I have to work on one of the feeders, while having to shut down everything to do it via the main in-line valve. By the way, that valve also looks suspect to me and I will be replacing it.

So, I am passing on my experience to the group as a reminder to check this manifold on a periodic basis. It is hard to see internal corrosion, but it is clear that even bronze will eventually fail. Phantom is now 13 years old, so maybe I was due for replacement. Has anyone else had this failure, and if so, what was your best solution to replace? Has anyone attempted to source from Amel?

Thanks,
Jamie Wendell
Phantom, A54 #44


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

<IMG-20190520-WA0006.jpg>