Date   

Re: Freezer seal

greatketch@...
 

Mark,

I doubled the seals, running two in parallel everywhere I had room. Does that help?  I don't know for sure, but it falls under the category of "It can't hurt!"  

If you do that you will need 3X 17 feet to do both boxes.  If you run just one seal around the box, 2X 17 feet should work.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Mark Erdos
 

Pat,

 

Good for you. Looks like you finally have the overheat issue resolved.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2018 7:46 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

 

Bill, I decided not to flush it ,other than with water. For one thing its impossible to get to the engine block drain, without removing things that have not been moved in 24 years, better to leave sleeping dogs lie. That sleeve I emailed you about on the heat exchanger plays an important role , it forces the water (antifreeze) to go through the first two openings in the tube and then out the other end which insures the heat transfer . Not having a sleeve allowed some of my water to bypass the H/E thus the overheating. We just came in from running the snot out the boat , like 2800 rpm for twenty minute and it never went above 190 ,problem solved. So if you have a Volvo TMD22  and have persistent overheating , check to see if you have this small rubber sleeve that slides over the H/E tube , mine had fallen apart over time. Also I bought parts that were $288 for a Volvo here (end caps), for $48 through Parts4Engines  in the UK , but for a Perkins M80T, so buy Perkins not Volvo parts,tip of the day!

 

Pat

SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Jun 16, 2018 2:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

Pat,

 

Here is a link to the BB Material Safety Data Sheet.

 

 

It does have more in it than just the phos acid listed.  I expect corrosion inhibitors, and surfactants.  But it does work a treat!

 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Annapolis, MD

 


Freezer seal

Mark Erdos
 

Bill K

 

You suggested this product to re-seal the freezers. It comes in 17 feet rolls. Was this enough to do both units under the seats?

 

When we re-did our under-seat fridge gaskets, we used a product from MD Building, #1025, D-profile, 5/16 x 23/64.  We got it from Amazon.

 

It is important to note that with gaskets like this, there is a maximum specified compression that needs to be adhered to for best sealing and longest life.  If the gasket is over-compressed it might seem to seal better at first, but it quickly takes on a permanent "set" and is then no longer flexible enough to make a good seal.  For most hollow rubber gaskets, such as this this, maximum compression is 25% of the uncompressed thickness.  

I have installed shims that take the weight of the lid so the gaskets do not get squeezed too much.

 

Bill Kinney

SM#160, Harmonie

Charlotte Amalie, StT, USVI

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

www.creampuff.us

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, I decided not to flush it ,other than with water. For one thing its impossible to get to the engine block drain, without removing things that have not been moved in 24 years, better to leave sleeping dogs lie. That sleeve I emailed you about on the heat exchanger plays an important role , it forces the water (antifreeze) to go through the first two openings in the tube and then out the other end which insures the heat transfer . Not having a sleeve allowed some of my water to bypass the H/E thus the overheating. We just came in from running the snot out the boat , like 2800 rpm for twenty minute and it never went above 190 ,problem solved. So if you have a Volvo TMD22  and have persistent overheating , check to see if you have this small rubber sleeve that slides over the H/E tube , mine had fallen apart over time. Also I bought parts that were $288 for a Volvo here (end caps), for $48 through Parts4Engines  in the UK , but for a Perkins M80T, so buy Perkins not Volvo parts,tip of the day!

Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Jun 16, 2018 2:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 
Pat,

Here is a link to the BB Material Safety Data Sheet.


It does have more in it than just the phos acid listed.  I expect corrosion inhibitors, and surfactants.  But it does work a treat!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lifeline Stanchion Removal

James Alton
 

Craig,

   Thanks for your input on a possible option to seal the bolts that cannot easily be removed.  I am aware of but have not yet used the Captain Tolleys product,  I will give it a try.  I am certainly all for keeping the water out of these areas.   Sorry to hear about the damage you had on your Port side aft stanchion.

   When I get the boat back to my shop in Florida with the boat, I have a tool that could be very useful in removing the stubborn bolts.  It is an induction heating tool which creates eddy currents in the metal.  The fibreglass is unaffected directly so it should be possible to thermally cycle and hopefully loosen the stubborn bolts without any damage to the fibreglass if I am careful.  I have used the tool to extract more than 6,000 fasteners from different boats and it seems to almost always work.  I will post my results but it will be a while since we will be cruising the Med. for at least one more year.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

   

On Jun 13, 2018, at 11:49 AM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


James,
If some bolts won't come out and have never been removed before it seems likely there has not been water ingress - they're just being uncooperative and can wait for you to get back to your shop for better tools. If you're concerned, I'd treat them with Captain Tolley's (Amazing) Creeping Crack Cure - great product.

I had the embedded plate of the port side aft-most stanchion get wet after the original GPS antenna cable was removed along with the silicon Amel had sealed it with. After many years the rusting plate swelled up and cracked the toe rail open. A few years ago I cut out the old plate, replaced it and re-glassed the toe rail, which now looks like new. This can also be an issue if you rewire the bow lights.

Others have reported swelling in the SM engine-room hatch cover supports (I think BebeBill was the first to post about it). Don't recall any issues reported about the genoa track rail bolts, which I believe you're working on.

Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Craig,

   Thanks for the advice and information on how you dealt with the bolts on your boat that are tapped into the embedded plates, that was very helpful to me! 

   I will definitely take Joel’s advice on sealing and using new bolts.  I have read about the problems that can occur if water gets to the backing plates and I certainly want to avoid that if at all possible.  My thoughts are to remove any of the rail bolts that I can get out easily and replace/reseal those as soon as I can.    The remainder that are  difficult to remove will have to wait until I get Sueño back to my shop in Florida.  I am wondering if there are any options to help prevent water ingress on the fasteners that I cannot easily remove?

   Best of luck to you and your project.

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220


    
On Jun 12, 2018, at 8:51 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

My experience was some bolts were easily removed, others really stubborn. After trying BIG screwdriver with square shaft and a wrench on that to add to torque, the ultimate solution for the ones that got "buggered" was to weld a short hex head bolt onto the flat slotted head of the stanchion bolt and put a socket wrench on that - easy peasy removal.

Do take Joel's advice to heart to be SURE you seal the new/replaced bolts totally. This forum has many reports of the embedded carbon steel backing plates corroding and some bursting open - believe me, it's a BIG fiberglass repair job to cut out the old plates and rebuild the fiberglass and gel coat.
Good luck with it!
Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris.


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Gary,

  Thanks for the information.  I am curious about what percentage of the bolts you were able to extract from the embedded bar stock?  Also what technique for removal of the fasteners seemed to work the best for you?

   Best of luck with the rest of your hurricane repairs.

James Alton
SV Sueño
Maramu #220

On Jun 12, 2018, at 1:54 AM, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi Bill


I echo what Joel and others have said but with a few caveats.  I just had about 10 of my stanchions off for repairs following hurricane damage.  Most are attached with the threaded-into-embedded-bar stock method but those in the immediate vicinity of the aft "garage" lazarette had washers and nuts on the back side of the vertical face of the toe-rail and the top horizontal face of the toe-rail.   This included the three most aft stanchions on the starboard stern area.  I didn't have damage on the port side in that area and so I can't speak to that (plus the propane locker is in that area so you'll have to  inspect in that area for nuts if that is where your damage is).  

I had always assumed that the stanchion that has the outboard rail board on it was welded at the top rail and the block was fabricate in-situ but not so.  That stanchion is about 1.5 inches sh ort of going to the top rail and inserts in a hole that is about 75% of the depth of the the wooden block. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335
currently completing hurricane repairs at Island Marine, Inc, Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico

PS I have a son who is a certified welder so I have been taught a lot about quality welding by him.  The guys that did my stainless repairs were highly skilled and true professionals.  Besides fabricating and installing a 10 ft section of rail and stanchions (done off the boat after tack welding everything on the boat, they weld repaired some broken bales on the underside of the stanchions that retain the jib-sheet-car traveler line.  They did this by removing the stanchion base screws, flexing the lifeline about an inch away from the toe-rail, putting protective metal plating between the fibergla ss and the work piece and TIG welding the bale-to-base, upside down, in close quarters while laying on the deck.  Amazing work.  I can't believe the results of all their work.  Perfect in every way.









Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] after sales services (years after !)

James Alton
 

Christian Alby,

   I am very happy for you!  I am also amazingly impressed by the service Amel is providing such incredible support on a product that is decades old.  I cannot think of another company that takes such good care of their customers.  It is no wonder that Amel has such a loyal following.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueño,  Maramu #220



   

On Jun 16, 2018, at 12:12 PM, calbyy@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Just to express all the pleasure of benefitting from the outstanding (responsive, efficient, ) response of the Amel After Sales services.

Owner of a 1982 Maramu, I lost my bow thruster (tube, gear, propeller) to the caribean waters late April 2018, I sent a message to La Rochelle asking for possibility to replace; got a concise answer within 24 hrs proposing to try and recover Drawings & memory of the part & confirming that they were prompting production to meet my EAT in french port scheudle mid May.

Arrived May 20 in Canet en Roussillon, called the yard in La Rochelle & was informed that the part would be completed within a Week.

Good to know that Amel shipyard keep on supporting old (or better 'vintage' ?) boats, maintaining memory of Drawings, measurements & until now craftmanship to help us extend the sailing life of our boats.


christian alby - Désirade VIII - Maramu 116 - Back in Canet en Roussillon





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] after sales services (years after !)

 

Wonderful!

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970






On Sat, Jun 16, 2018 at 11:12 AM calbyy@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Just to express all the pleasure of benefitting from the outstanding (responsive, efficient, ) response of the Amel After Sales services.

Owner of a 1982 Maramu, I lost my bow thruster (tube, gear, propeller) to the caribean waters late April 2018, I sent a message to La Rochelle asking for possibility to replace; got a concise answer within 24 hrs proposing to try and recover Drawings & memory of the part & confirming that they were prompting production to meet my EAT in french port scheudle mid May.

Arrived May 20 in Canet en Roussillon, called the yard in La Rochelle & was informed that the part would be completed within a Week.

Good to know that Amel shipyard keep on supporting old (or better 'vintage' ?) boats, maintaining memory of Drawings, measurements & until now craftmanship to help us extend the sailing life of our boats.


christian alby - Désirade VIII - Maramu 116 - Back in Canet en Roussillon



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

greatketch@...
 

Pat,

Here is a link to the BB Material Safety Data Sheet.


It does have more in it than just the phos acid listed.  I expect corrosion inhibitors, and surfactants.  But it does work a treat!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Patrick McAneny
 

Mark, I am going to print that out and show the marina manager, strange it says on the bottle non-toxic , not harmful to metal ,fiberglass etc. Its on the boat I will look to see if the ingredients are listed. Now I am back to where I started ,confused , my normal state of mind.
Thanks Again,
Pat
SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Jun 16, 2018 9:20 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 
Hi Pat,
 
 
The basis of BB is phosphoric acid. To save money, phosphoric acid can be purchased at a hardware store and diluted (add acid to water NOT water to acid). When available, I have made a solution of phosphoric acid in a large bucket to drop in my heat exchanger and after cooler. It works great. I then make up a baking soda solution to neutralize the acid and dunk the parts in before reassembly.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2018 8:05 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
 
Mark, I spoke to the local Marine store connected to a marina here and the manager said that they use B/B on both sides of the cooling system. It is not an acid and on the bottle it said biodegradable , non toxic , not harmful to metal etc. , it even said not to have any in your eyes for too long. I noticed that it did not burn my hands, which I thought funny as I thought it was an acid , but apparently it is not.
Pat
SM#123
 
-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Jun 14, 2018 7:34 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
Pat,
 
I do not think I would do this. No doubt the BB will eat the impeller and hoses etc. I thought you meant to remove the heat exchanger and treat it away from the engine. This would be best.
 
Check with an auto parts store for a product that is safe to clean the coolant path. There are plenty out there that will work well.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 7:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
 
Mark, Now that I know I can use it on the fresh water side, is this how I would proceed. I would drain all the antifreeze and refill with a 4 to 1 ratio mixture of B/B run the engine until it warms up , shut it down and let it sit for maybe three hours, then flush with water a couple of times. Does that sound about right.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Jun 14, 2018 7:16 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
Hi Pat,
 
Yes. Use it on both sides. I have use BB on multiple surfaces without issue. However, keep it away from fiberglass – be sure not to spill any.
 
When done, I make up a baking soda solution and dunk the exchanger in it to neutralize any acid. Probably not necessary but I figure it couldn’t hurt.
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 7:23 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
 
Mark, Its not bad ,all the holes are clear, but thought it might clean out stuff from between the tubes. So 4 hrs. and then flush with water to rid the acid. Do you know if it can be used on the fresh water side to clean out rust and small deposits.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123
-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Jun 13, 2018 8:58 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
Hi Pat,
 
BB will take at least four hours on a mild job. If your heat exchanger is blocked and has a lot of growth, I would suggest taking it to a radiator shop. They will do it for the price of a gal of BB. It should be clean throughout and shiny before you put it back on.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 8:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
 
I have never used anything like Barnacle Buster and have a question. I took out my heat exchanger and I understand that I can soak it to clean it , but how long? Another question is that the interior surfaces of the fresh water side looks pretty bad . Can I run B/B through my fresh water side to clean it out , if not is there something else to clean out the fresh water side.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


Older Maramu steering system pics

smiles bernard
 

Hey folks

I thought these might be of interest for those with older Maramus with the morse red cables and the Morse 401 commander steering system.

I know it would have helped me to have had these so hope they are helpful for any future service plans


All the best
Miles


after sales services (years after !)

calbyy@...
 

Just to express all the pleasure of benefitting from the outstanding (responsive, efficient, ) response of the Amel After Sales services.

Owner of a 1982 Maramu, I lost my bow thruster (tube, gear, propeller) to the caribean waters late April 2018, I sent a message to La Rochelle asking for possibility to replace; got a concise answer within 24 hrs proposing to try and recover Drawings & memory of the part & confirming that they were prompting production to meet my EAT in french port scheudle mid May.

Arrived May 20 in Canet en Roussillon, called the yard in La Rochelle & was informed that the part would be completed within a Week.

Good to know that Amel shipyard keep on supporting old (or better 'vintage' ?) boats, maintaining memory of Drawings, measurements & until now craftmanship to help us extend the sailing life of our boats.


christian alby - Désirade VIII - Maramu 116 - Back in Canet en Roussillon



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Craig Briggs
 

Yes, Pat, your local marine store manager is wrong, as Mark points out. However, the fact that BB is phosphoric acid based does not mean it is hugely dangerous. Coca-Cola (and most soft drinks) also use phosphoric to give an acidic flavor. We used to use Coke to clean car engine exteriors - works great. It is harmful to some metals, like aluminum, in high concentration.

Use BB or (much cheaper) hardware store phosphoric acid for your heat exchanger but stick to commercial radiator flush products for flushing out the fresh water side of your engine. Phosphoric acid is also great in high concentration for removing any rust stains you may have on your fiberglass - won't touch the fiberglass. It's regularly used in industry to passivate ferrous metals and you can buy it cheaply as "passivating liquid" in some supply houses.
Cheers, Craig, SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <mcerdos@...> wrote :

Hi Pat,

 

Check out this post on the forum: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/conversations/messages/38767

 

The basis of BB is phosphoric acid. To save money, phosphoric acid can be purchased at a hardware store and diluted (add acid to water NOT water to acid). When available, I have made a solution of phosphoric acid in a large bucket to drop in my heat exchanger and after cooler. It works great. I then make up a baking soda solution to neutralize the acid and dunk the parts in before reassembly.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2018 8:05 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

 

Mark, I spoke to the local Marine store connected to a marina here and the manager said that they use B/B on both sides of the cooling system. It is not an acid and on the bottle it said biodegradable , non toxic , not harmful to metal etc. , it even said not to have any in your eyes for too long. I noticed that it did not burn my hands, which I thought funny as I thought it was an acid , but apparently it is not.

Pat

SM#123

 

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Jun 14, 2018 7:34 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

Pat,

 

I do not think I would do this. No doubt the BB will eat the impeller and hoses etc. I thought you meant to remove the heat exchanger and treat it away from the engine. This would be best.

 

Check with an auto parts store for a product that is safe to clean the coolant path. There are plenty out there that will work well.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 7:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

 

Mark, Now that I know I can use it on the fresh water side, is this how I would proceed. I would drain all the antifreeze and refill with a 4 to 1 ratio mixture of B/B run the engine until it warms up , shut it down and let it sit for maybe three hours, then flush with water a couple of times. Does that sound about right.

Thanks,

Pat

SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Jun 14, 2018 7:16 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

Hi Pat,

 

Yes. Use it on both sides. I have use BB on multiple surfaces without issue. However, keep it away from fiberglass – be sure not to spill any.

 

When done, I make up a baking soda solution and dunk the exchanger in it to neutralize any acid. Probably not necessary but I figure it couldn’t hurt.

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 7:23 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

 

Mark, Its not bad ,all the holes are clear, but thought it might clean out stuff from between the tubes. So 4 hrs. and then flush with water to rid the acid. Do you know if it can be used on the fresh water side to clean out rust and small deposits.

Thanks,

Pat

SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Jun 13, 2018 8:58 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

Hi Pat,

 

BB will take at least four hours on a mild job. If your heat exchanger is blocked and has a lot of growth, I would suggest taking it to a radiator shop. They will do it for the price of a gal of BB. It should be clean throughout and shiny before you put it back on.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 8:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

 

I have never used anything like Barnacle Buster and have a question. I took out my heat exchanger and I understand that I can soak it to clean it , but how long? Another question is that the interior surfaces of the fresh water side looks pretty bad . Can I run B/B through my fresh water side to clean it out , if not is there something else to clean out the fresh water side.

Thanks,

Pat

SM#123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Pat,

 

Check out this post on the forum: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/conversations/messages/38767

 

The basis of BB is phosphoric acid. To save money, phosphoric acid can be purchased at a hardware store and diluted (add acid to water NOT water to acid). When available, I have made a solution of phosphoric acid in a large bucket to drop in my heat exchanger and after cooler. It works great. I then make up a baking soda solution to neutralize the acid and dunk the parts in before reassembly.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2018 8:05 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

 

Mark, I spoke to the local Marine store connected to a marina here and the manager said that they use B/B on both sides of the cooling system. It is not an acid and on the bottle it said biodegradable , non toxic , not harmful to metal etc. , it even said not to have any in your eyes for too long. I noticed that it did not burn my hands, which I thought funny as I thought it was an acid , but apparently it is not.

Pat

SM#123

 

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Jun 14, 2018 7:34 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

Pat,

 

I do not think I would do this. No doubt the BB will eat the impeller and hoses etc. I thought you meant to remove the heat exchanger and treat it away from the engine. This would be best.

 

Check with an auto parts store for a product that is safe to clean the coolant path. There are plenty out there that will work well.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 7:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

 

Mark, Now that I know I can use it on the fresh water side, is this how I would proceed. I would drain all the antifreeze and refill with a 4 to 1 ratio mixture of B/B run the engine until it warms up , shut it down and let it sit for maybe three hours, then flush with water a couple of times. Does that sound about right.

Thanks,

Pat

SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Jun 14, 2018 7:16 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

Hi Pat,

 

Yes. Use it on both sides. I have use BB on multiple surfaces without issue. However, keep it away from fiberglass – be sure not to spill any.

 

When done, I make up a baking soda solution and dunk the exchanger in it to neutralize any acid. Probably not necessary but I figure it couldn’t hurt.

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 7:23 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

 

Mark, Its not bad ,all the holes are clear, but thought it might clean out stuff from between the tubes. So 4 hrs. and then flush with water to rid the acid. Do you know if it can be used on the fresh water side to clean out rust and small deposits.

Thanks,

Pat

SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Jun 13, 2018 8:58 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

Hi Pat,

 

BB will take at least four hours on a mild job. If your heat exchanger is blocked and has a lot of growth, I would suggest taking it to a radiator shop. They will do it for the price of a gal of BB. It should be clean throughout and shiny before you put it back on.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 8:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

 

I have never used anything like Barnacle Buster and have a question. I took out my heat exchanger and I understand that I can soak it to clean it , but how long? Another question is that the interior surfaces of the fresh water side looks pretty bad . Can I run B/B through my fresh water side to clean it out , if not is there something else to clean out the fresh water side.

Thanks,

Pat

SM#123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] A54 Sleipner bowthruster uneven brush wear

Peter Forbes
 


This forum is just amazing - I have have just had the same problem [Bow Thruster] (lots of carbon dust and therefore probably worn out brushes) not the one side thrust (but that’s interesting too). On Carango A 54#035.

Can anyone tell me the part number or description of the relays I should have as spares (I am away from boat for now) and also the part number or dimensions of the brushes which I am sure need replacement.

I presume the springs have to be removed to change the brushes?. Quite a fiddle job as the screws are so small with large hole beneath and some on the aft, difficult to see side of the motor,

Thank you

Peter
Pete Forbes
Carango
River Azul South Brittany, France


Peter Forbes
00447836 209730

On 7 Jun 2018, at 01:41, Bill Rouse @billrouse <mailto:@billrouse> [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>> wrote:


Thanks for the details.


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www..amelschool.com <http://www.amelschool.com/>
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, Jun 6, 2018, 12:54 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... <mailto:svgarulfo@...> [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>> wrote:


Hi Bill and 54 owners,

The issue with the Port-only-thrusting was resolved by removing and dismantling the double-solenoid power relay. After cleaning the contacts with sandpaper and corrosionX-ing the springs, it functioned correctly again. The issue was confusing because each relay would behave correctly independently (connecting the top posts and disconnecting the bottom ones) but activating the starboard one would cause the other one to loose its bottom (idle) connection(!).

Some more info I gathered in the meantime:

* The front relay (red and blue wires) is activated for starboard operation. The back relay (red and grey wires) for port.
* Power cables are marked A1, A2, D1, D2. A1 and A2 are the stator posts, D1 and D2 are the rotor bobin posts.
* the rotor and stator circuits are in series. The voltage of the rotor is reversed depending on direction.
* A1 is permanently connected to batteries Neg. A2, D1 and D2 are controlled by the relays.
* on idle, A2, D1 and D2 are connected together.
* on Starboard, the front relay connects D2 to batteries Pos (top posts). A2 and D1 are still connected by the bottom posts of the back relay. Circuit is: Pos=D2-rotor-D1=A2-stator-A1=Neg
* on Port, the back relay connects D1 to batteries Pos (top posts). A2 and D2 are still connected by the bottom posts of the front relay. Circuit is: Pos=D1-rotor-D2=A2-stator-A1=Neg

Hope that will help,

Fair winds and happy thrusting

(Oh, and the ground circuit leak got resolved too in the operation. Not sure exactly how, but it did)

Thomas
GARULFO
AMEL 54 #122
Bonaire


On Mon, 28 May 2018 at 21:43, S/V Garulfo <svgarulfo@... <mailto:svgarulfo@...>> wrote:
Hi Bill,

I agree the motor is probably fine, as it can run in one direction.
I can hear the big Albright double-solenoid motor-reversing contactor click for both starboard and port operation. So joystick is innocent.

I think i know what 4 relays you mean (in the plastic junction box) but didn't foresee they played a part in the thrusting operation. I assumed it was only the raising/lowering of the thruster, and that my problem was closer to the Side-Power unit.

I measured voltage on the Albright contactor posts in port/starboard/idle operation to see if I can reverse engineer what is supposed to happen to the 4 power cables going into the motor.. Need to look at the results with a fresh pair of eyes in the morning. And maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree.


Thanks as always,


Thomas
GARULFO
AMEL 54 #122
Bonaire

On Mon, 28 May 2018 at 21:02, Bill Rouse @billrouse <mailto:@billrouse> [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>> wrote:


Thomas,

It is probably not the motor and is either the joystick or one of the 4 relays.

Eliminate the joystick first...

It is unlikely that your relays are numbered because out of about 10 54s, I have only seen 1 with numbered relays, but they are all the same relay. If all 54s are wired the same, I think it will be relay #2, but, if you have a spare relay, it is easy enough to replace them one at a time until you find the culprit. Of course the problem can be corrosion between the relay terminals and the female spade connectors.

If I owned a 54, I would have 4 spare relays.

Good Luck!

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School <http://www.amelschool.com/> http://www.amelschool.com <http://www.amelschool..com/>
720 Winnie St <https://maps.google.com/?q=720+Winnie+St+Galveston+Island,+TX+77550&entry=gmail&source=g>
Galveston Island, TX 77550 <https://maps.google.com/?q=720+Winnie+St+Galveston+Island,+TX+77550&entry=gmail&source=g>
+1(832) 380-4970 <tel:(832)%20380-4970>







On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 4:22 PM, 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... <mailto:svgarulfo@...> [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>> wrote:


Hi Scott,

Talking of the devil...

I haven't looked into the carbon dust and brushes yet, cause I reconnected the thruster for a quick stop in a marina and after the initial 'all-good' tests, it decided to only thrust to port and not starboard....
So I've got a second issue to troubleshoot. If anyone has experienced it and has clues, it's very welcome..

I'll check the state of the brushes for uneven wear too, to give you another data point..
Note that i don't have an oil reservoir in my unit.


Fair winds to all,

Thomas
GARULFO
AMEL 54 #122
Bonaire



On Mon, 28 May 2018 at 05:54, cpp_berkeley <no_reply@... <mailto:no_reply@...>> wrote:


Craig,


Answers to your questions below:



1) After we let it cool down (~30 minutes) it ran fine. Perhaps a bit weaker but that's probably to be expected considering that some of the brushes have worn down considerably and actually even cracked, exposing just bare conductors. My fear is that going forward, it will continue to overheat prematurely and leave us without a bow thruster when we most need it.

2) The sidepower bowthruster has a drain plug underwater between the two props and a fill reservoir in the bow locker. Obviously oil is changed on the hard. My understanding is that the way to change the oil is to open the plug and continue filling the reservoir until the oil coming out of the plug looks clean. That way, you don't get air into the system.



The mechanic drained all of the oil and he put the plug back and filled the reservoir. The next day, the oil level had dropped, indicating that the air migrated upwards (and/or the thick oil slowly migrated downwards). This drop in oil level continued for a few days. It seems reasonably stable now, but I'm unsure whether some air was still stuck in the gearleg and never made its way out..



Also, we now have a strong "Mass -" leak. Thomas of S/V Garulfo posted that he had a bow thruster leak, possibly from carbon dust. I'll go check that now and report back.

But in general, any idea why the carbon brushes would be wearing so unevenly?




Scott

A54 #69

S/V Tengah






---In amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>, <sangaris@...> wrote :




Hi Scott,

Your post raises a couple of questions.
1. You say the unit had a thermal shutdown - did it work after it cooled down? Any problems?
2. In what way did the mechanic have trouble getting air out of the system? On the SN and SM one simply turns the bottom section upside down to drain and then pours in new oil. No issue with air. Perhaps the 54 is a different design that I'm not familiar with.

Craig




---In amelyachtowners@... <mailto:amelyachtowners@...>, <no_reply@yahoogroups...com <mailto:no_reply@...>> wrote :




Hi all,



I was coming into the quay at Zante yesterday in our A54 with about 10-15 knots on the beam and used the sidepower bow thruster in 10-15 second bursts and all of the sudden, thermal shutdown!



After executing an exciting no thruster stern-to med mooring into a tight spot (with expectant spectators!) I opened up the bow thruster compartment to see a lot of carbon dust. I took the motor cover off and inspected the brushes and found that for each of the pairs (4 pairs, 8 total brushes), one was worn MUCH more than the other one. On some pairs, it's the top one that was worn more, on some, it was the bottom one. Some brushes were down to loose wire.



On the attached photo, you can see the extent of the uneven wear for one pair.



We recently had the boatyard change the bowthruster oil and they drained it all before adding new oil, which resulted in challenges getting all the air out of the system. We then completed a 1350 mile passage. These probably have nothing to do with it, but maybe I'm wrong.



Before I go out and spend money to replace the brushes and possibly experience similar uneven wear, anyone have any ideas as to why this happened and how to rectify it?



Thanks!



Scott

A54 #69

S/V Tengah

















Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: A54 Sleipner bowthruster uneven brush wear

Peter Forbes
 

This forum is just amazing - I have have just had the same problem [Bow Thruster] (lots of carbon dust and therefore probably worn out brushes) not the one side thrust (but that’s interesting too). On Carango A 54#035.

Can anyone tell me the part number or description of the relays I should have as spares (I am away from boat for now) and also the part number or dimensions of the brushes which I am sure need replacement.

I presume the springs have to be removed to change the brushes?. Quite a fiddle job as the screws are so small with large hole beneath and some on the aft, difficult to see side of the motor,

Thank you

Peter
Pete Forbes
Carango 
River Azul South Brittany, France


Peter Forbes
00447836 209730

On 7 Jun 2018, at 01:41, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks for the details.


Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www..amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Wed, Jun 6, 2018, 12:54 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill and 54 owners,

The issue with the Port-only-thrusting was resolved by removing and dismantling the double-solenoid power relay. After cleaning the contacts with sandpaper and corrosionX-ing the springs, it functioned correctly again. The issue was confusing because each relay would behave correctly independently (connecting the top posts and disconnecting the bottom ones) but activating the starboard one would cause the other one to loose its bottom (idle) connection(!). 

Some more info I gathered in the meantime:

* The front relay (red and blue wires) is activated for starboard operation. The back relay (red and grey wires) for port. 
* Power cables are marked A1, A2, D1, D2. A1 and A2 are the stator posts, D1 and D2 are the rotor bobin posts.
* the rotor and stator circuits are in series. The voltage of the rotor is reversed depending on direction. 
* A1 is permanently connected to batteries Neg. A2, D1 and D2 are controlled by the relays. 
* on idle, A2, D1 and D2 are connected together. 
* on Starboard, the front relay connects D2 to batteries Pos (top posts). A2 and D1 are still connected by the bottom posts of the back relay. Circuit is: Pos=D2-rotor-D1=A2-stator-A1=Neg
* on Port, the back relay connects D1 to batteries Pos (top posts). A2 and D2 are still connected by the bottom posts of the front relay. Circuit is: Pos=D1-rotor-D2=A2-stator-A1=Neg

Hope that will help,

Fair winds and happy thrusting

(Oh, and the ground circuit leak got resolved too in the operation. Not sure exactly how, but it did)

Thomas
GARULFO
AMEL 54 #122
Bonaire 


On Mon, 28 May 2018 at 21:43, S/V Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

I agree the motor is probably fine, as it can run in one direction. 
I can hear the big Albright double-solenoid motor-reversing contactor click for both starboard and port operation. So joystick is innocent.

I think i know what 4 relays you mean (in the plastic junction box) but didn't foresee they played a part in the thrusting operation. I assumed it was only the raising/lowering of the thruster, and that my problem was closer to the Side-Power unit. 

I measured voltage on the Albright contactor posts in port/starboard/idle operation to see if I can reverse engineer what is supposed to happen to the 4 power cables going into the motor.. Need to look at the results with a fresh pair of eyes in the morning. And maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree.


Thanks as always,


Thomas 
GARULFO
AMEL 54 #122
Bonaire 

On Mon, 28 May 2018 at 21:02, Bill Rouse brouse@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thomas,

It is probably not the motor and is either the joystick or one of the 4 relays. 

Eliminate the joystick first... 

It is unlikely that your relays are numbered because out of about 10 54s, I have only seen 1 with numbered relays, but they are all the same relay. If all 54s are wired the same, I think it will be relay #2, but, if you have a spare relay, it is easy enough to replace them one at a time until you find the culprit. Of course the problem can be corrosion between the relay terminals and the female spade connectors.

If I owned a 54, I would have 4 spare relays.

Good Luck!

On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 4:22 PM, 'S/V Garulfo' svgarulfo@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Scott,

Talking of the devil...

I haven't looked into the carbon dust and brushes yet, cause I reconnected the thruster for a quick stop in a marina and after the initial 'all-good' tests, it decided to only thrust to port and not starboard....
So I've got a second issue to troubleshoot. If anyone has experienced it and has clues, it's very welcome.. 

I'll check the state of the brushes for uneven wear too, to give you another data point.. 
Note that i don't have an oil reservoir in my unit.


Fair winds to all,

Thomas
GARULFO
AMEL 54 #122
Bonaire 

On Mon, 28 May 2018 at 05:54, cpp_berkeley <no_reply@...> wrote:

Craig,


Answers to your questions below:

1) After we let it cool down (~30 minutes) it ran fine. Perhaps a bit weaker but that's probably to be expected considering that some of the brushes have worn down considerably and actually even cracked, exposing just bare conductors. My fear is that going forward, it will continue to overheat prematurely and leave us without a bow thruster when we most need it.

2) The sidepower bowthruster has a drain plug underwater between the two props and a fill reservoir in the bow locker. Obviously oil is changed on the hard. My understanding is that the way to change the oil is to open the plug and continue filling the reservoir until the oil coming out of the plug looks clean. That way, you don't get air into the system.

The mechanic drained all of the oil and he put the plug back and filled the reservoir. The next day, the oil level had dropped, indicating that the air migrated upwards (and/or the thick oil slowly migrated downwards). This drop in oil level continued for a few days. It seems reasonably stable now, but I'm unsure whether some air was still stuck in the gearleg and never made its way out..


Also, we now have a strong "Mass -" leak. Thomas of S/V Garulfo posted that he had a bow thruster leak, possibly from carbon dust. I'll go check that now and report back.

But in general, any idea why the carbon brushes would be wearing so unevenly?


Scott

A54 #69 

S/V Tengah 




---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :


Hi Scott,

Your post raises a couple of questions. 
1. You say the unit had a thermal shutdown - did it work after it cooled  down?  Any problems?
2. In what way did the mechanic have trouble getting air out of the system? On the SN and SM one simply turns the bottom section upside down to drain and then pours in new oil. No issue with air. Perhaps the 54 is a different design that I'm not familiar with.

Craig



Hi all,


I was coming into the quay at Zante yesterday in our A54 with about 10-15 knots on the beam and used the sidepower bow thruster in 10-15 second bursts and all of the sudden, thermal shutdown!


After executing an exciting no thruster stern-to med mooring into a tight spot (with expectant spectators!) I opened up the bow thruster compartment to see a lot of carbon dust. I took the motor cover off and inspected the brushes and found that for each of the pairs (4 pairs, 8 total brushes), one was worn MUCH more than the other one. On some pairs, it's the top one that was worn more, on some, it was the bottom one. Some brushes were down to loose wire.


On the attached photo, you can see the extent of the uneven wear for one pair.


We recently had the boatyard change the bowthruster oil and they drained it all before adding new oil, which resulted in challenges getting all the air out of the system. We then completed a 1350 mile passage. These probably have nothing to do with it, but maybe I'm wrong.


Before I go out and spend money to replace the brushes and possibly experience similar uneven wear, anyone have any ideas as to why this happened and how to rectify it?


Thanks!


Scott

A54 #69 

S/V Tengah 



 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Patrick McAneny
 

Mark, I spoke to the local Marine store connected to a marina here and the manager said that they use B/B on both sides of the cooling system. It is not an acid and on the bottle it said biodegradable , non toxic , not harmful to metal etc. , it even said not to have any in your eyes for too long. I noticed that it did not burn my hands, which I thought funny as I thought it was an acid , but apparently it is not.
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Jun 14, 2018 7:34 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 
Pat,
 
I do not think I would do this. No doubt the BB will eat the impeller and hoses etc. I thought you meant to remove the heat exchanger and treat it away from the engine. This would be best.
 
Check with an auto parts store for a product that is safe to clean the coolant path. There are plenty out there that will work well.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 7:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
 
Mark, Now that I know I can use it on the fresh water side, is this how I would proceed. I would drain all the antifreeze and refill with a 4 to 1 ratio mixture of B/B run the engine until it warms up , shut it down and let it sit for maybe three hours, then flush with water a couple of times. Does that sound about right.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Jun 14, 2018 7:16 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
Hi Pat,
 
Yes. Use it on both sides. I have use BB on multiple surfaces without issue. However, keep it away from fiberglass – be sure not to spill any.
 
When done, I make up a baking soda solution and dunk the exchanger in it to neutralize any acid. Probably not necessary but I figure it couldn’t hurt.
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 7:23 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
 
Mark, Its not bad ,all the holes are clear, but thought it might clean out stuff from between the tubes. So 4 hrs. and then flush with water to rid the acid. Do you know if it can be used on the fresh water side to clean out rust and small deposits.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123
-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Jun 13, 2018 8:58 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
Hi Pat,
 
BB will take at least four hours on a mild job. If your heat exchanger is blocked and has a lot of growth, I would suggest taking it to a radiator shop. They will do it for the price of a gal of BB. It should be clean throughout and shiny before you put it back on.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 8:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
 
I have never used anything like Barnacle Buster and have a question. I took out my heat exchanger and I understand that I can soak it to clean it , but how long? Another question is that the interior surfaces of the fresh water side looks pretty bad . Can I run B/B through my fresh water side to clean it out , if not is there something else to clean out the fresh water side.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Patrick McAneny
 

Mark, I am glad we clarified this , I was going to do it today. I already cleaned the exchanger , it did seem to clean it up better than what it was. I will check with an auto store about flushing or just skip it. 
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Jun 14, 2018 7:34 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 
Pat,
 
I do not think I would do this. No doubt the BB will eat the impeller and hoses etc. I thought you meant to remove the heat exchanger and treat it away from the engine. This would be best.
 
Check with an auto parts store for a product that is safe to clean the coolant path. There are plenty out there that will work well.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 7:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
 
Mark, Now that I know I can use it on the fresh water side, is this how I would proceed. I would drain all the antifreeze and refill with a 4 to 1 ratio mixture of B/B run the engine until it warms up , shut it down and let it sit for maybe three hours, then flush with water a couple of times. Does that sound about right.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Jun 14, 2018 7:16 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
Hi Pat,
 
Yes. Use it on both sides. I have use BB on multiple surfaces without issue. However, keep it away from fiberglass – be sure not to spill any.
 
When done, I make up a baking soda solution and dunk the exchanger in it to neutralize any acid. Probably not necessary but I figure it couldn’t hurt.
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 7:23 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
 
Mark, Its not bad ,all the holes are clear, but thought it might clean out stuff from between the tubes. So 4 hrs. and then flush with water to rid the acid. Do you know if it can be used on the fresh water side to clean out rust and small deposits.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123
-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Jun 13, 2018 8:58 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
Hi Pat,
 
BB will take at least four hours on a mild job. If your heat exchanger is blocked and has a lot of growth, I would suggest taking it to a radiator shop. They will do it for the price of a gal of BB. It should be clean throughout and shiny before you put it back on.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 8:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
 
I have never used anything like Barnacle Buster and have a question. I took out my heat exchanger and I understand that I can soak it to clean it , but how long? Another question is that the interior surfaces of the fresh water side looks pretty bad . Can I run B/B through my fresh water side to clean it out , if not is there something else to clean out the fresh water side.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Mark Erdos
 

Pat,

 

I do not think I would do this. No doubt the BB will eat the impeller and hoses etc. I thought you meant to remove the heat exchanger and treat it away from the engine. This would be best.

 

Check with an auto parts store for a product that is safe to clean the coolant path. There are plenty out there that will work well.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 7:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

 

Mark, Now that I know I can use it on the fresh water side, is this how I would proceed. I would drain all the antifreeze and refill with a 4 to 1 ratio mixture of B/B run the engine until it warms up , shut it down and let it sit for maybe three hours, then flush with water a couple of times. Does that sound about right.

Thanks,

Pat

SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Jun 14, 2018 7:16 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

Hi Pat,

 

Yes. Use it on both sides. I have use BB on multiple surfaces without issue. However, keep it away from fiberglass – be sure not to spill any.

 

When done, I make up a baking soda solution and dunk the exchanger in it to neutralize any acid. Probably not necessary but I figure it couldn’t hurt.

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 7:23 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

 

Mark, Its not bad ,all the holes are clear, but thought it might clean out stuff from between the tubes. So 4 hrs. and then flush with water to rid the acid. Do you know if it can be used on the fresh water side to clean out rust and small deposits.

Thanks,

Pat

SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Jun 13, 2018 8:58 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

Hi Pat,

 

BB will take at least four hours on a mild job. If your heat exchanger is blocked and has a lot of growth, I would suggest taking it to a radiator shop. They will do it for the price of a gal of BB. It should be clean throughout and shiny before you put it back on.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 8:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

 

I have never used anything like Barnacle Buster and have a question. I took out my heat exchanger and I understand that I can soak it to clean it , but how long? Another question is that the interior surfaces of the fresh water side looks pretty bad . Can I run B/B through my fresh water side to clean it out , if not is there something else to clean out the fresh water side.

Thanks,

Pat

SM#123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Patrick McAneny
 

Mark, Now that I know I can use it on the fresh water side, is this how I would proceed. I would drain all the antifreeze and refill with a 4 to 1 ratio mixture of B/B run the engine until it warms up , shut it down and let it sit for maybe three hours, then flush with water a couple of times. Does that sound about right.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Thu, Jun 14, 2018 7:16 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 
Hi Pat,
 
Yes. Use it on both sides. I have use BB on multiple surfaces without issue. However, keep it away from fiberglass – be sure not to spill any.
 
When done, I make up a baking soda solution and dunk the exchanger in it to neutralize any acid. Probably not necessary but I figure it couldn’t hurt.
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 7:23 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
 
Mark, Its not bad ,all the holes are clear, but thought it might clean out stuff from between the tubes. So 4 hrs. and then flush with water to rid the acid. Do you know if it can be used on the fresh water side to clean out rust and small deposits.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wed, Jun 13, 2018 8:58 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
Hi Pat,
 
BB will take at least four hours on a mild job. If your heat exchanger is blocked and has a lot of growth, I would suggest taking it to a radiator shop. They will do it for the price of a gal of BB. It should be clean throughout and shiny before you put it back on.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 8:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster
 
 
I have never used anything like Barnacle Buster and have a question. I took out my heat exchanger and I understand that I can soak it to clean it , but how long? Another question is that the interior surfaces of the fresh water side looks pretty bad . Can I run B/B through my fresh water side to clean it out , if not is there something else to clean out the fresh water side.
Thanks,
Pat
SM#123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Pat,

 

Yes. Use it on both sides. I have use BB on multiple surfaces without issue. However, keep it away from fiberglass – be sure not to spill any.

 

When done, I make up a baking soda solution and dunk the exchanger in it to neutralize any acid. Probably not necessary but I figure it couldn’t hurt.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

www.creampuff.us                                                                                   

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2018 7:23 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

 

Mark, Its not bad ,all the holes are clear, but thought it might clean out stuff from between the tubes. So 4 hrs. and then flush with water to rid the acid. Do you know if it can be used on the fresh water side to clean out rust and small deposits.

Thanks,

Pat

SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Wed, Jun 13, 2018 8:58 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

Hi Pat,

 

BB will take at least four hours on a mild job. If your heat exchanger is blocked and has a lot of growth, I would suggest taking it to a radiator shop. They will do it for the price of a gal of BB. It should be clean throughout and shiny before you put it back on.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 8:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Barnacle Buster

 

 

I have never used anything like Barnacle Buster and have a question. I took out my heat exchanger and I understand that I can soak it to clean it , but how long? Another question is that the interior surfaces of the fresh water side looks pretty bad . Can I run B/B through my fresh water side to clean it out , if not is there something else to clean out the fresh water side.

Thanks,

Pat

SM#123